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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,970
    Stay away from whatever crap the dealer offers as rustproofing, the only thing good about dealer rustproofing is the big fat profit he makes on it.

    If you have your car done with either Krown rustproofing or Rust check rustproofing you will have no problems with rotted rubber seals, I have been having my cars done for over twenty years with one or the other of these products and never had a problem.

    I hope this address,s any queries that you had.

    Cheers Pat.
  • ecnivcecnivc Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Forester with 70,000 miles. After spending thousands to get my short block replaced (out of warranty)I am wondering to how many people this has happened? The car is well maintained and I am a little hot under the collar after this experience. Subaru paid for half the cost of the new block. Any feedback would be appreciated.
  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    have them mounted at Costco. The money saved will easily pay for the cost of the yearly membership. I bought the Aquatread 3s I mounted on our '95 Legacy L from TireRack. The locals couldn't even come close on the price. As far as shipping, the tires came via UPS. The UPS driver delivered them while we were at work and carried them around to the back of the house, placing them inside my screened in porch. I did have to put them in the back of the Soobie and carry them over to Costco. Costco mounted, balanced, provided valve stems, and free lifetime rotation for $40.00. I will never buy tires any other way again.

    Good luck!

  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    Why was it replaced?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yup excellent choice for you guys. I put A2s on my dad's Sonata, they were the best ones that fit it. :)

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    I'm curious too since I own a 98 Forester myself. What was the reason for needing a shortblock replacement? That's some pretty major surgery. Did you try and work with SOA to see if they could help somehow? While you were clearly out of warranty, that's a major repair that typically doesn't happen.

  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    just remember that any aftermarket rustproofing , incl dealer installed, if it involves any holes being drilled, esp into sealed box sections, will almost certainly void your factory rust warranty. Rust proofing really shouldn't be necessary these days with galvanized steel, what every car owner needs to do though is make sure any paint chips are touched up right away. Cars rusting from inside out are almost unheard of these days, its always starts when the paint has been chipped etc or around some opening to the exterior.

    Betty Dukakis - reminds me of a joke I heard when I was in hospital during the '88 election. What do they call those little packets of alcohol wipes in Boston?
    A Betty Dukakis after dinner mint!
  • gened1gened1 Posts: 256
    Being that you live in Rochester did you check out Nokian tires? They seem to have a good rep especially the all season and snow handling part. The closest they are available to me (Syracuse) is Rochester and eventually I may have to take the trip.
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075 sell them (NOT
    I have had NRWs this season, quite nice but ice traction seems less than true wintertires
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    I buy my tires at tirerack and have them mounted at Costco. Costco charges ~$10 per tire. With that you get new stems, free lifetime rotation and balancing and free fixes for flats. My set of A2s were installed on my OB that way. I will soon be using the same route for my Sienna. They even use a torque wrench!

  • jfljfl Posts: 1,385
    Steve, in reply to post 6502: Ethanol, in a diluted form, is available in any liquor store. However, it won't dry your gas. 8~)

    Also, denatured alcohol is available at Home Depot in gallon cans.

  • vetmatsvetmats Posts: 71
    I've had my 2000 Subaru Outback in to the dealer twice for the check engine light which turned out to be a a misfire on Cylinders #2 and #4 the first time, Cylinder #4 only the second time. And now my check engine light is on for a third time, only two days after the second trip to the dealer.

    Did you check engine light ever stay off?

    I am considering taking my car to another dealer to see if another dealer can find the problem.

    Any suggestions?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Only does the rotation/tire balancing/fix flat if you buy the tires and get them installed by them. For non-costco tires you don't get those things. I do the same though for $10/tire you can't really beat them for mounting and balancing.

  • ecnivcecnivc Posts: 2
    I was told exhaust gas was entering the coolant. An internal crack-no details given. SOA offered to pay half the cost of the short block. Personally, I think they should have paid for the block. The dealer helped also. The check engine light and A/T light came on. I shut the car off, looked under the hood, restarted it-NO LIGHTS. Drove it to the dealer and the rest is painful history.The car has 70,000 miles. I want to know how many people this has happen to. I also had the wheel bearing replaced at 65,000. Also out of warranty. I just bought an LLBean Outback also, and I'm nervous.
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    nope. The last 2 tire purchases where done through tirerack and installed by Costco. I have never been charged on either car for rotation, balancing and/or flats. Maybe its different at different stores?? The one thing that is a minus using this route is warranty coverage. Just not that easy to handle.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Could be at the discretion of each tire-manager. I know their policy states that it's not included, but the guys at my place are pretty cool so they'd probably do it for me if I asked.

  • vetmatsvetmats Posts: 71
    I canceled my third trip to the dealer last Friday. I'm glad that I did because my check engine light went off today (Sunday). After looking back through the various posts I think that my problem was due to:

    A) moisture due to the winter
    B) letting the level in my gas tank get too low.
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    because we're just nice guys....and drive Subarus. :)
  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    gave their tire-managers that much discretion. Perhaps it is state or regional policy. I don't recall being told we would be able to get flats fixed for free at our Costco. We definitely have free rotation.

    I was very impressed with the system they had in place regarding wheel torque. One technician did the initial mounting and tightening with a torque wrench. The wrench was then left on the last wheel he tightened. A second technician then took the torque wrench and checked the torque of every lug on each wheel. The car was not released to me until both technicians had signed off on the work.

  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Yeah, they do that here too. When I had the A2s installed, the tech did a nice job. However, when the manager came over to check the torque she jerked the torque wrench and not in a star pattern either. I looked at the tech and he just shrugged his shoulders. Maybe I've just gotten lucky so far with free flats. I need to have the A2s balanced and rotated, so I will see.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I also gave the guys a $20 tip the first time I went there and explained that I had 2 cars and would be coming in rather often to get tires mounted, also drop at least $10 tip on later trips :)

  • Hi -
    I am hoping someone can shed light on the problem I am having with my 1998 Subaru Outback wagon. It has 96,500 miles. About two months ago, I replaced the transmission due to ongoing, intermittent slipping and revving at high rpm's. At about the same time, my car overheated. Since then, I have had three new thermostats, new water pump, new radiator... and have had the cooling system completely bled/flushed out several times, hoses and heating block cleaned, as well as a last ditch effort with "Blue Devil". The car has stranded me in several highly inconvenient and dangerous times/areas, hence many mechanics have looked under the hood. Each one is convinced they've fixed the problem, only to find me stranded on the road once again. My current mechanic is stumped. He thought it could be the head gasket, but can't find sufficient evidence. Has anyone had a similar problem , or does anyone have advice??
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    Why do you thing it's overheating? Are you basing this on the guage, or does the engine stop running?

    What do you mean by stranded? Stopped running, or you stopped it due to a temp needle approaching red?

    Basically you've replaced everything impacting engine cooling but the fan and its drive system. If everything was installed properly, that's all there is left.

    The reason I asked about the guage, etc is that I hope this entire cooling system thing is not simply a faulty guage showing hot. A good mechanic would have installed an aftermarket heat gauge for $100 on a chronic heating problem vehicle rather than charge 5 times that tossing radiators, water pumps, etc at it. What say ye?

  • celica115celica115 Posts: 169
    Do you know what is the normal temp that show up on the heat guage?

  • timo43timo43 Posts: 23
    Question: I am used to standard shifts, but just got a 2003 Forester automatic. Half the people I talk to say do not downshift to second gear and use the braking influence of the engine, as brakes are a lot less expensive to replace than transmissions. The other half say a heavy Forester puts too much demand on the brakes on a hill, and I should use second gear. The manual says to use a low gear. What is the best technique for going down hills?
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    It really comes down to a judgement call for you in the end. If you are going to be constantly on the brakes for a long time downhill (say more than several hundred feet), then it probably is wiser to downshift and allow engine braking to help you. What you want to avoid is a dangerous situation where your brakes have faded from heat build up to the point where you can't stop.

    For a short stretch or occaisional "taps" of the brake, it's probably better to leave the transmission alone.

  • The only time I'd bother to downshift an automatic would be going up or down a very, very, very steep hill with a bad surface such as wet leaves, mud, dirt, sand or loose rocks. And then I'd use first gear to obtain all the help I could get. Otherwise, I'm on the brakes. And pump the brakes, don't ride them and let them heat up.

    Back to the battery problem briefly. Chatting with the architect next door, he reminded me that his Camry had once had a daily dead battery problem. After umpteen trips to the mechanic it turned out to be a bad relay for rear window defroster.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    For that battery issue, if the dealer has tested the alternator, check the alternator belt tension, and the battery itself, then it likely is your driving habits.

    A battery will hold a charge for a certain time, but it is designed to be used regularly. If you must, just start it once a week and let it idle in the driveway. Let it warm up, and give it a couple of minutes after that. This also cleans your motor oil, and circulates it in your engine to keep everything lubricated nicely.

    If you leave a car for extended periods you should winterize it, so I don't think it's unreasonable for the dealer to suggest a trickle charger.

    Just my opinion.

    By the way, I would consider a new battery. I replaced mine, which had 260 CCAs, with a $40 battery from Wal Mart that has 535 CCAs. She starts better now. It's a cheap investment and might solve your problem completely.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, Costco told me they'd only rotate the tires for free if I bought the tires there.

    I'd rather do it myself anyway, just to ensure the proper torque settings. So I buy tires wholesale and have them mount them the first time, then I recheck the torque and rotate them myself from then on.

    Haven't had a flat in 18 years, knock on wood.

    Wow, Loosh, oil leak come and gone while I was away.

    Jim: I forget exactly, but they charged us a ridiculous amount to fix that axle boot. $600 or so? The grease leaked and shorted out a $220 oxygen sensor, too. Mazda parts are brutally expensive if you go to a dealer.

    For $200, go ahead and do it, that's cheap.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Another thought - I believe the alternator shares a belt with the power steering. Does your steering seem heavy or uneven? If so, it's the belt or the tension causing both problems.

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