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Comments
Elissa
John
I have an issue here that is starting to drive me batty.
I currently have a 2001 LL bean. I drove out to see family in Arizona (from WI) in March. While going through Colorado, I started to notice a subtle rattle in the engine compartment. I thought maybe injectors so when I got to Phoenix I took my car in.
It had about 59800 miles on it when I drove onto the lot so I thought that if it were powertrain related it would still be covered under warranty.
It turned out that the timing chain tensioners/pullies were bad and they had to replace them. After 6 days of them having the car, they finally replaced these parts, under warranty.
On the drive home (again in Colorado) I noticed a thunk under the hood while going up a hill on the highway. It only happened once, and the car seemed to be driving fine. However, I stopped at the next exit to check it out. When I was at idle, I noticed a rythmic sound coming from the engine. A check showed that the power steering pully was EXTREMELY Bent. I took off the soundproofing and saw that the bolts holding the pump were loose and that one was missing (obviously had come out and bent the pulley as it did). The nearest Subaru dealer couldn't see it until the next week so I took it to a GoodYear garage. It would take 3 days and $600 to get the part.
Now my assumption and theirs was that the bolts were not tightened/torqued when the dealer in Arizona put the car back together. I also didn't have the time to sit in CO and wait for parts as I had already been delayed in AZ. So they took the pump out and beat the pully back into alignment (kinda) and told me it could fail at any moment.
Fortunately the pump and the pulley made it back home and I took it to Subaru in Waukesha. They refused to fix it and said that the pully was "operating within specs." I called the dealer in AZ and they initially said they would have it fixed and then reversed that when they talked to the dealer in Waukesha whom told them it was "operating within specs." Now they are refusing to return my calls and to fix the pump.
Now, wether or not it is operating within specs or not, you don't fix a part like this by flogging it with a hammer. I feel this should be fixed but I don't know where to go next. The "responsible" dealer is 2000 miles away and I don't see the point in sticking too much money into getting them to fix it as I could just replace it myself. Any info would be helpful
Thanks - and sorry - -
Patti
I know these boards are often read and reviewed by representatives of car manufacturers, but really appreciate the fact that you get Subaru personally involved.
-Frank P
Should I replace with new rounder rotors?
-Dave
If you are under waranty, go take it to the dealer...I think you need to see what the cause is.
Don
I get a filter from my local Subie dealer for an 04 Forester X, part number 15208AA080. Get all set to replace it and the filter wrench that fits the replacement filter is TOO BIG for the filter on my car! (WTF?)
Anyway, I do a little research and there is a filter (part 15208AA060) for 1990-2003 H4-2.5. Could my 04 have this 90-03 filter? Does my 04 have an 04 motor? What is the difference between an 03 and an 04? (apparently, there is!)
I have not gotten the filter for the 03 yet to see if it fits, but I just wanted to post to see if any other 04 Forester owners were finding this weirdness.
Thanks,
Scott
Is yours made by Purolator?
-juice
The black XT filter is indeed smaller than the white filter used on the regular 2.5L engine in the 03 Forester and 03 OBW.
I have one end cap wrench for the OBW and another for my Forester XT.
HTH
Larry
I had the same thing happen when I changed the oil (second oil change) on my '04 XS. The dealer had performed the previous oil change and the parts department gave me a filter with the same part number you listed. It is indeed black (in my box) and has the word ENGINE printed on the end. It was definitely smaller than the one that was mounted. I stuck the new one on and haven't noticed any problems with oil leaks or anything. Maybe it is the XT filter but the parts guy did cross-reference it with his computer screen. My guess is it shouldn't cause any angst!
John
Thanks for your help.
Terisbusy@adelphia.net
If you do service it, machine the heads smooth and replace the gaskets on both sides. I think your price estimate is about right.
-juice
15208AA080 is for a Forester TURBO model (it should be small and black)
15208AA060 is for a regular Forester (larger and white)
-Frank
Since buying my Forester, under warranty, I had the clutch, rear axle assembly, and brake master cylinder (recall) and some minor parts replaced. Afterward, I had to have the steering wheel contacts for the airbag replaced ($200).
This year alone, the front and rear brake pads finally wore out, but the rotors were too thin to turn and had to be replaced ($620). Then the speed sensor failed, and after a 3 week ordeal of 2 service appointments with a wait for parts, that was replaced ($120). Then, fearing a catastophe, I had the timing belt replaced early (103,000 miles). When they tore it apart, they found that the tensioner was not working properly and needed replacement also. While waiting for this service, the check engine light came on and it was diagnosed as an EGR valve failure. Total bill in excess of $600. TYhe EGR repair was over $120. On my Saab, this was a user replaceable part that cost about $16, adjusted for inflation.
For the last few weeks, I have intermittetnly smelled gas in or around the vehicle. This was diagnosed today as a gas tank leaking at the seams, needing replacement. Because the exhaust has to be removed to get at the tank, the dealer pointed out that the flange to the rear muffler assembly is deteriorated and that it would likely fail when removed. So, even though the muffler is stainless steel and will never wear out, I have to replace the whole assembly because of the flange -- estimate with the tank over $1400. This is just too much for one year. While I can't afford to buy a new vehicle right now, I am beginning to think that buying an old clunker would be cheaper than continuing to drive my Forester.
None of the these problems seem to be related to routine maintenance, so I can only suspect poor quality.
I can't blame you for being upset (none of us likes spending money) but hopefully you've gotten the major maintenance items out of the way and will have clear sailing for the next 50k!
-Frank
Just kidding, but the number of problems you've had is rare.
FWIW, my 1998 has 63k miles now and has cost me exactly zero out of pocket, besides maintenance.
Look at CR's ratings in their car issue, every category is average or better, and they consider it a Best Bet among used cars (consistently reliable and a good overall rating).
Frank: actually, the average car payment is now above $400. The average new car is in the $27k range! Ouch.
Any how, keep it 7 months or longer and you come out ahead.
-juice
To me, "manual" means MANUAL! Am I wrong here?! I control the heat, blower direction and fan in a world where "manual" means "manual". I don't understand why my car decides in manual mode that heat on my feet really means AC on my face?!?!?! My dealer says that even in manual mode, the system reads the temp in the cabin and adjusts accordingly, that it's operating normally. To me, that sounds like an AUTOMATIC mode not MANUAL! ARG!
Could Subaru engineers really have designed the system this way? Is there really no way for me to warm my cold feet on a 65 degree sunny day without having an accident while continuously manually overriding my automatically overriddeen manual overrides? *pulling hair out*
I'm at my wit's end and looking longingly at anything else on the market. Seems a shame to trade a new XT with 3K miles on it that I spent a whole year shopping for and dreaming about but I've checked with the dealer and they say they can't even swap out the auto system for the manual from the X - impossible as it's so well integrated to the car. They say I couldn't even find an aftermarket system to replace it with. Seems like a strange version of hell to me. Is this how everyone elses' "manual" mode behaves too? Must I really turn the AC off five times in each drive when I never wanted it on in the first place? Is there anyone with an OBD system that can re-program the system to NOT use any inputs other than the drivers?
help me,
elissa
The manual mode is simple. But, I never use the temp dial with the AC. I only use the temp dial for heat. So, I never get 'blended' air coming out.
For AC temp adjust, I use the fan setting. Heat setting is different, it is not very precise using the gauge and takes a bit to react. So, maybe it is using HAL.
Keep your XT and get the HAL fix before any drastic decisions.
John
I only use the floor/dash combo setting on the dial.
John
-Dave
Thanks for your input.
Your AC is kaput????
-mike
Will see what they say about the rotors or whatever might be causing the pads to sweep funky.
Ya, the AC seems that way, kaput. Will have that checked out too.
The AC hadn't been cold or cool for a while. Last Saturday, on my way to the garage, it's just hot air... told GF the AC is just warming up ;-) That's when I dropped by Pepboys to pick up a charge, worked for a while and then it's hot air again. Works fine the very first time it is turn on for like 15-20 mins, then it's all down hill. You can hear/see the compressor kick start but can't get going. Looks like the pressure switch keeps shutting it down. Checked the pressure and it's fine - checked wrong the first time w/o engine + AC on and thought it was high.
-Dave
Although I am replying from Australia and have an Ozzie apec Outback with Auto Climate control, I had a look at your SOA website to see if the your Climate control was the same in the USA. It looks almost identical, so I assume that it should work the same as mine.
If the a/c comes on, then press the A/C button and it should go off. You should be in full manual mode. You can now direct the air to wherever you want by using the MODE button and then adjust the temp by using the TEMPERATURE CONTROL DIAL. This is how it works on my Outback.
The AUTO button can be pressed and this will try to adjust the temp automatically to the indicated temp on the display to the best of its ability. The AUTO button should really only be used for easy temp. control changes for say, when you first get into the car on a hot or cold day to quickly get the car up/down to near the indicated temp. on the display.
Once the car gets to/near comfortable temp., then use the MODE button to direct air to desired area and FAN SPEED for desired quantity of air and TEMP DIAL for desired temp setting. When switching from AUTO to the above mode, the a/c will still usually operate. If you don't want a/c, then push the A/C button and it will now NOT operate and will only come back on if you push the AUTO button or the A/C button.
If your system doesn't work this way then I believe it is either faulty or your USA spec climate control is different to our Oz spec ones. I doubt it would be different though as it looks the same.
I had forgotten to mention that two oil leaks were also fixed under warranty that would have been very expensive if I had to pay.
I was really happy with my Forester in all respects until these problems. But because these have occurred within a year, I am really worried that I will keep having to pay for more.
I looked up the Consumer Reports ratings yesterday and found that the Forester is above average in reliability but that the older models have increasing problems. That is what one would expect, except that CRVs and RAV4s fare much better for older models and better for current ones. I would say that some better engineering is in order for future Subarus sold in North America.
I was looking forward to buying an XT in a year or two, but now, I am thinking about other alternatives. Coupled with my frustration about the way Subaru handled their credit card program, I am not feeling very good about the company right now.
-Frank
I can't believe that anyone would program the AC to come on because of the temp dial when in the manual mode. I keep my "temp" dial all the way to lowest setting except in winter, and if the AC were to operate according to the temp dial, surely it would be coming on all the time for me.
John
John
-Frank
First let me admit to all of HAL's weaknesses: cycling heat/ac and never finding the right temp, manual is not manual, never seems to do what you want in auto, etc.
That being said, one day this past winter I was pleaseantly surprised with HAL. I was driving on the NJ TPKE when some freezing rain started. So naturally, I turned on the front defogger on and set the temp to maximum heat to keep the windshield from freezing over. As a habit of doing this in other cars, I then reached to put down the windows somewhat so as not to melt (and coincidently get wet from the freezing rain coming in the window). To my surprise HAL was starting to shoot ac out of the main vents to counteract the heat being directed at the windshield. As such, I kept the windows up and watched others that I was passing getting wet. (Sidenote: the windshield wiper defrosters did not help at all.)
I think the answer, though unprobable, is allowing the driver to set some kind of stored option. Similar to the car not beeping when you unlock with the remote. This way the manufacturer has to homogenize functions less to suit most people, and can rather allow the car to adapt.
(HAL: 1, HAL Opposition: 5.2 x10^8)
Tom
I'll try that trick... seems pretty ridiculus that to get the system to behave in manual you have to follow a four-step and somewhat arbitrary process. Don't you think? Now, if only they had programmed the system to go through that routine when the engine is started...
John,
My system acts very sporadically... the A/C doesn't ALWAYs come on when I turn the temp dial down in manual, but about 50% of the time it does and that's usually on days warmer than 68 degrees when the car has been sitting in the sun absorbing heat on the dash. *sigh* Thanks for sharing your experience. I may try the dealer once again and see if they can reproduce that strangeness...
In the meantime, gonna be testdriving Hondas and Toyotas with no ACC. :-\
Thanks,
Elissa
-Frank
Ambient temp was about 67F, fwiw.
-Brian
If, in manual mode, it decides to blow air out of the wrong vent, then just switch it via the MODE control to the correct vent outlet. I think the Climate Control has a "learn" mode in it and will (hopefully) eventually "learn" your preferences. This seems to be the way mine works on my Oz spec Outback 3.0R.
-Brian