Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Mike, Good catch! :-) That was a full-fledged brain-fart on my part! :-) The heat works good and strong off of battery alone, no use of gas or engine required.
  • njswamplandsnjswamplands Member Posts: 1,760
    what a whimp, only 8 decimal places. i think my mileage is closer to pi
  • njswamplandsnjswamplands Member Posts: 1,760
    thanks patti, glad to hear from an insider on these things
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sorry, from now on I'll express my mileage in pi terms. I'm getting about 8.6pi lately. ;-)

    Toyota and Honda in-line engines require balance shafts (licensed by Mitsubishi by the way) to stop the shimmys. Boxers have a natural second order balance, i.e. no balance shafts to add unnecessary reciprocating mass.

    Ever seen a large in-line 4 at idle that didn't have balance shafts? Shaky-shaky-shaky...

    The boxers have character, a nice growl, not unlike some Porsches. They drive by and you recognize the sounds.

    Drive by in an NSX and you might as well be in a V6 Kia or Chrysler. You can barely tell the difference.

    But a boxer is totally unique. Though you might be mistaken for a Porsche...

    -juice
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    this area seems to be most active, so i will post here again.

    is the 2002 Impreza with the 2.5 boxer going to be reliable? a boxer engine even looks funny to me. can anyone work on them, or is it strictly a dealer mechanic? what about oil changes?

    also looked at a new Focus wagon. smoother, lighter on its feet, but the reliability is an issue (maybe) and it doesn't have AWD. it is roomier inside though...

    on the BASE 2002 with wheel covers, are those 14 inchers or 15 inchers?

    thanks again everyone!
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    yeah, i have heard that big 4 cylinders can be rough if they don't have balance shafts. guess i have never actually experienced that though.

    friend used to have a Shadow Shelby Turbo - it was ROUGH, but that was a Chrysler Turbo from the 80's.....how could it NOT be rough, haha.

    is the boxer engine opposite of most Japanese engines then? meaning, most of them like to be revved to get their peak HP. does the boxer prefer to be lugged around like a diesel or an old Volvo 240 engine?
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    my $.02: The boxer engines are generally more torquey at low rpm than equivalent in-lines. Of course, the more displacement the more torque. Having said that, each of the Subaru engines is tuned a bit different. The 2.0 turbo explodes at higher rpm, the 3.0 naturally aspirated six cylinder is a stump puller, the 2.5 NA has intermediate between the two, while the 2.5 turbo is a monster throughout.

    Can't wave a flag at a boxer engine and call them this or that.

    John
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Any competent mechanic can work on the boxer engines.

    -mike
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    I have worked on my own '84 Subaru GL 1.8L (200K miles on it), '01 Subaru Forester 2.5L, '04 Subaru Forester 2.5L XT Turbo. I find Subarus to be reliable. Consumer reports finds Subarus, including your 2.5L Impreza, to be reliable. The Focus, uh, I have issues with Fords ("found on road dead") and if you are concerned about reliability you should run in the opposite direction. Consider the Toyota Matrix if you are looking for reliable Impreza alternatives, it has an AWD option... but with only 123 HP compared to the Impreza's 160 HP :-).

    I find changing the oil on all three of my Subies to be a piece of cake. Changing the spark plugs on all but the Turbo to be mildly inconvenient but doable for the home mechanic. The Turbo plugs are way deep inside and blocked by the intercooler - I can't even find them. But your Impreza 2.5L should be easy enough to move other parts around (battery? wiper fluid reservoir?) to get at the plugs. You can do your own differential fluid replacement, air filter, brakes, etc. No problem. What else do you want to do?

    PS - If you take a Subaru to some horrible place (like a Jiffy Lube) to have the oil changed, be sure that they know to drain the oil from the ENGINE and not the TRANSMISSION. For some reason that defies logic and common sense, Jiffy Lubes have been know to drain transmission oil from the vehicle and fill up the engine oil, resulting in no transmission fluid and 8 Qts of engine oil. Uh, that would be a very very bad thing for your car overall. Akin to blowing up your engine and setting fire to your tranny. There is more than one instance of this happening to Subarus at those quicky lube places. But the engine oil drain plug is SOOOO easy to find - it's on the engine oil pan. Duh. Not on the tranny. Two totally different looking components. Any trained mechanic wouldn't even need a second thought about which to drain. I never even needed a second thought about which to drain. But that is why you DON'T go to the Jiffy Lubes and Quick Lubes of the world - they don't have trained mechanics.
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Justin- The 2.5 boxer has generally been very reliable. A few owners experienced problems with leaking head gaskets but Subaru seems to have come up with a fix for that.

    I drove a Focus rental last fall and was appalled by its lack of performance, poor ergonomics and shoddy build quality. Throw in Ford's long track record of mediocre or worse reliability scores and in my humble opinion, anyone who buys a Ford does so at his or her own risk.

    Base Impreza wheels are 15 inchers.

    -Frank
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    it is either used Impreza or new Ford Focus wagon. not a fan of the Vibe/Matrix really.

    the Impreza only has 15k miles (2002) but it was registered as a corporate fleet car. CARFAX checks out fine. worries me though. was it maintained? no way to tell....

    only has one year left of warranty according to Subaru N.A. they said the one recall it had has already been taken care of...

    we will see.

    thanks again!
  • garrettgarrett Member Posts: 6
    Got a 2004 Forester XS Premi which I love except for persistent noises (rattle or buzz on broken pavement) from the dashboard - above the instrument cluster, almost at the windshield. Dealer has had the vehicle for a total of 31 days in the 8 months I've had it and seems to be making the general noises worse. The storage well on top of the dash now vibrates and the trim around the shifter creaks. The dealer has been very understanding and has genuinely tried their best to fix this - really above and beyond the call - but I have to face the fact they can't fix it. They've basically thrown up their hand and sent me to SOA who want to bring in a district service person.

    My worry is that the 31 days is certainly enough in my home state to qualify for a 'lemon' - don't really want to do this though. But I'm moving states in a few weeks. Will I have to 'start the clock' again? I wish I'd tried another dealer earlier but only one is very convenient.

    I'm frustrated that this problem is causing me such headaches. Advice? Comments?
  • yogi29035yogi29035 Member Posts: 16
    Now that I've got 2k miles on the 04 WRX, I'm starting to not like the steering/handing which is kind of sloppy. I'd like it to "snap over" a bit when I turn the wheel and to be generally more responsive. The first thing I'm giong to try is bumping up the tire pressure a bit, ....right?

    If that doesn't work, my plan is to change tires. Problem is, with only 2K on the car, changing tires feels expensive, since the ones I have are barely used. Is there a way to get some $$ back for them, or do I have to just leave 'em sitting in the garage until it's time to trade the car?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    15", I think, for the TS. Other models actually get 16". No Subaru from 2002 and on had wheels that small (14").

    Was that Shadow really a Shelby? The Shelby models were just called "CSX". Funny thing is my roommate had a Shadow ES turbo, the 2.2l model, it was fast but not smooth at all, and the clutch was stiff and nails.

    I agree with mike on the boxers, any competent mechanic can work on them. If I managed to change the spark plugs, anyone can. I didn't even have the right sized socket extensions and I managed.

    garrett: they seem to be working with you, try to talk them into a favorable exchange. The 2005s get better gas mileage, 23/30.

    yogi: you won't get much for used RE92s. People don't like them new.

    -juice
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    yeah, it was a Shelby, or something. it wasn't just a Shadow Turbo model. it had a numbered plaque on the dash. almost positive it was a Shelby model. it was fun to drive for me being 16, as my car was the 1980 Volvo DL. night and day there. haha. but yeah, it was rough.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Justin,

    Your proposed situation sounds like just the right argument for purchasing a Subaru Gold extended warranty. You can do it as long as the car is still covered by the 3yr/36k, and the prices in cyberland are quite reasonable for what you get.

    Steve
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    15K is low and it's nice that it still has 1 year left on the bumper to bumper. Don't forget also that Subaru offers a 5yr 60K mile power/drive train warranty that covers all transmission and engine components. It's pretty comprehensive in my opinion. I don't think I'd worry about it being a Fleet car... better than a rental and it couldn't have missed much if any maintenance in 15K miles. Although you could use that to talk the dealer down in price. Consumer reports says of the Impreza: "...The Impreza delivers nimble handling and a relatively comfortable ride. The rear seat is cramped and cargo space is tight. The Outback Sport model rides more stiffly.... Safety equipment: Dual front air bags standard. Side air bags available from 2002. ABS available, standard from 2002. Safety-belt pretensioners standard from 2002." Reliability is predicted high and it is a Consumer Reports "Good Bet" for a used car. Year 2002 was even better than some other years. Retail prices for '02 should be around $14K - $16K (but never pay the asking price, you know it was probably traded in for thousands less). You can make the dealer prove to you the recall was attended to - ask for proof - there is probably a sticker under the hood or something that was applied when the recall was addressed. Had you considered purchasing private party rather than through a dealer? You could save thousands and have a better idea what you are getting. Either way, check the Blue Book value of the car by going to http://www.kbb.com and selecting "retail price" if you want to see the expected dealer pricing, or "private party" if you want to see what it would cost to buy from a person.

    Consumer reports says of the Focus: "Reliability has finally improved, allowing us to recommend it... All versions we tested handled nimbly and felt forgiving at their limits. The wagon is a cleverly packaged and very practical choice, with good rear-seat and cargo space." Although owner satisfaction is below average. You should also know there is a $3K consumer rebate on the Focus Wagon. Invoice is about $1000 below MSRP and the dealers get a $500 "dealer holdback" from the factory, which means they pay about $1500 below MSRP for the car. So... you should be able to get $4000 - 4500 below MSRP if you're tough. :-) (alternatively, a new 2004 Impreza base model costs the dealer $16,600 so hard to get as a good a deal)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yep, that was the CSX, with the plaque.

    The base Focus models are pretty watered down, get at least the new 2.3l ST models, which are also PZEV. Torque is pretty good and fuel efficiency is better than the Zetec engine.

    -juice
  • xenakimboxenakimbo Member Posts: 3
    which spark plugs & wires can you recommend for a 96 legacy?
  • xenakimboxenakimbo Member Posts: 3
    There is a rattling noise coming from underneath my '96 legacy for the last few months. They keep telling me it's not the CV. A tire shop said its not the wheel bearings. One mechanic thinks its the axles (they have some "play") or the inner parts of the driveshaft being loose and something rattling around in there. Dealership says the axles should have some "play". Driving around in NYC today, the noise has become much more noticeable on the right side and going over bumps mostly. When we brake, the noise goes away. When I bring my car in where I live upstate, the noise is never as noticeable as it is down here. The roads in NYC and the boroughs SUCK major moose wang, by the way. We are at our wits end. The car sounds like my axle or wheel on the right side is going to fall off at any minute. My poor boy friend is outside now jacking the car up trying again to figure out where the noise is coming from. All of the mechanics seem perplexed. The car is running fine by the way, except I have a leak in the cam seals on the left side. HELP!!!!!
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Your owners manual should tell you when to change the plugs, what type of plugs to use and what the gap should be.... It just so happens that I have the Haynes Repair Manual for Subaru Legacies 1990-1998 so let me see here... :-) You should have the spark plugs changed every 30K miles (unless you use Platinum plugs which are much more expensive and can be changed every 60K miles). Your spark plug wires should be changed at the same time. I think you have a 2.5L engine, so I suggest using NGK spark plugs, model PFR5B-11. NGK's are more expensive than other brands but well worth it. The gap should be between .039 and .043 inches. Don't forget to use that anti-seize stuff on the threads if you plan on keeping the car for the next spark plug change ;-) As for wires... I dunno, I think I would just go to an autoparts store or the dealer and buy what they recommended. I've only ever changed them once and it was for an '86 Toyota Cressida blowing blue smoke out the tail pipe - I wasn't being very discriminating on the spark plug wires. ;-) Good luck! If you want any instructions or tips, email me (email is in my profile) and I can let you know what the manual says and what my experience has been with the Foresters.
    -elissa
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Hey! Where in upstate NY do you live? I'm born in Nyack, grew up in Goshen, college in Albany, lived in Larchmont and UWS, NYC! :-)

    Anyway, is it a high-pitched rattle that sounds like metal shaking around? It could be your heat shield. A heat shield is a thin metal cover around your catalytic converter and exhaust to contain the heat that that part gives off. I had similar noises on my old Civic that took three trips to the dealer to identify. Then had the same problem with my Forester that two mechanics thought was the catalytic converter all broken. Heat shield was lose in both cases. Free of charge to re-tighten or re-clamp to contain the rattle. With the winters you get in NY, it's likely that the heat sheild and screws are rusty and causing some rattling. I could be way wrong, but it's the easiest and cheapest thing to check.

    BTW - The heat sheild is just a cover, and is not part of any mechanical operation, it could fall off and your car would run just fine. Although you might start a fire if you were to park over dry leaves. Or you might melt your brake lines or catch fire to some dripping oil or something. It's unsafe to be without the heatshield, but mechanically if it's rattling, your car can be running fine.

    Anyway, I've been reading and it sounds like in 96 and earlier models there were three heat sheilds associated with Subaru exhausts, the one toward the front tends to get splashed by lots of cold puddle water which causes problems - cold water on hot metal degrade the metal I guess. Anyway, if you (or your boyfriend) can jack the car up and look at the length of the exhaust pipe and surrounding aluminum (I think) heat sheild it might be obvious where the problem is and/or wether replacing or simply tightening the heat sheild will do the trick. You can read more about heat sheilds and their purpose under the "test the pipes" section here : http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf90072.htm
    Good luck!
    Elissa
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Garrett,
    That sounds so frustrating! Have you tried calling SOA? The number is 1-800-SUB-ARU3 (800-782-2783) What state are you in? I hear that CA (where I live) has one of the more liberal Lemon Laws out there and it's really not in favor of the consumer. It basically allows you to sell your car back to the manufacturer, with an allowance taken out for mileage. When I looked into what I'd get if my car were a lemon, it was actually less than the Blue Book private party sale price of the car! To me, that's a law in favor of Auto Maker Lobbyists. A real disappointment. Maybe your state is actually more liberal? You could also try the BBB and various consumer protection agencies if you don't get any releif. Or, you could stuff muffling in your dash and sell it.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Brilliant, I love a solution like that. You should patent it. ;-)

    You sure you can afford to fix the other one? LOL

    For the windows you could use silicone from a tube, because it's clear. Or some RV grade latex sealer, that comes in black.

    My guess is the tire shop was wrong, it usually is the wheel bearings. Get a 2nd opinion.

    -juice
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    had such a niggling problem. The Rep. that has just been assigned your case is very good and I'm confident it will be resolved to your satisfaction. I think there is some "miscommunication" about duplicating the problem. We'll be able to help you in your home State or once you move, whichever is most convenient for you. I've asked to meet with the Sr. Rep. that has your case and the Manager for that area tomorrow AM. You'll hear from us shortly.

    Thanks - and again - I'm sorry -

    Patti
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Hey y'all

    IIRC, someone mentioned brake fluid that was colored blue, yellow, red etc. What was the name of it and where can I get it? I've looked at the auto part stores and nobody has it.
    Thanks

    Eric
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    But I don't think rhey offer a brake fluid...

    -Frank
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    ATE Superblue is a deep blue. They also sell ATE Gold, that is golden in color. Shoot me an e-mail and I'll tell you where you can get it from.

    -mike
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    hmm? why the desire for a particular color? on a budget, easily the best is Valvoline SynPower and it is available in any autoparts store or even Wal-Mart. spending a bit more, I prefer Motul 600.

    ~c
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It's very helpful when you flush to know when you have cleared out the old stuff completely. It's more useful to racers like us who change the fluid often enough that there isn't a "dirty" fluid but yet needs to be changed.

    Motul is cool, we like the ATE Superblue cause it's readily available from one of our sponsors :)

    -mike
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    The fluid capacity of the Subaru 4 wheel ABS system is only 10.2 ounces. If you use a baster to remove the old fluid from the reservoir, it's rather easy to purge it all by simply bleeding the brakes thoroughly at all four corners. If you do that and have put >20 oz through the reservoir, you're pretty clean. :)

    ~c
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    ah ha you as always are correct colin. I guess my method is wrong.

    -mike
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    The brake fluid reservoir on my '03 OBW is rectangular and has a float that appears to be non-removable so I couldn't suck much out with a baster. The large round reservoir on my previous Subarus was not a problem. Does anyone know if the float is it fact removable on the rectangular reservoirs?

    DaveM
  • garrettgarrett Member Posts: 6
    Thanks Patti. Nice to know that someone helpful from SOA is following the discussions - I'm new here. Thanks for chasing the case number for me and I have a contact person to call when I get to CA. That is, if the dash noise doesn't drive me crazy on the drive from MI to CA!

    It's in the shop again today for 'one last time' when the entire dash pad is going to be replaced. Here's hoping!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think the colored fluid is a great idea. Most people don't know the capacity off hand. And who among us really does RTFM? ;-)

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    can I get Maroon to match my car's color?

    ;-)

    Greg
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I don't think it's removable.

    I baster out as much as possible, then put in the ATE Blue. Good stuff.

    -mike
  • gmanmdgmanmd Member Posts: 20
    I have a 2001 Forester with a sunroof and it appears that i may have a sunroof leak as I keep getting water penetration into the driver's side C-pillar and into the cargo area. My driveway is an upslope and the back of the Forester is always lower, so after a rainstorm I get water into the driver's side bin in the cargo area. I had my dealer clear the sunroof drain tubes but that didn't help. I only see the two front drain holes and I can't see the back ones. Are there drain tubes towards the back? And if so, where are they and how can I get to them to clean them out? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • joybelljoybell Member Posts: 275
    To update on this problem I posted about a while ago...the dealer diagnosed two cracked ignition wires causing arcing (cylinder 2 and 4). These were replaced and yes, the car now idles contentedly. I hope this will solve the problem permanently and not have caused any damage.
    This has been an off and on problem since the car was a few weeks old. They also cleaned the idle valve as was done the last time. Just thought I'd post the "solution" (hopefully) to this problem.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Good to hear, Monica! Was the crack right at the ignition coil (sits up high on top of the intake)? I wonder if the coil was damaged as well - like something hitting it...

    Steve
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Posted a while back re: coolant odor on my 04 XT. Just ran the car on a 420 mile round trip. No problems. But - whenever its above 80 deg, and I do all stop and go driving, it will reek to high heaven of coolant. The odor seems to be at the drivers front - in the vicinity of the radiator & recovery tank.

    Dropped the bottom shield a week or so ago, can't find any sign of a leak and there's no coolant on the shield. The coolant tank is plumbed in such a way that there's no overflow hose that I can find, and I've been over every inch of every coolant line that I can find. The XT is a plumber's dream (or nightmare?)

    So far lost about a cup of coolant.

    Plan on taking it to the dealer in the next week or so. I'm sorry to say I'm stumped.

    Any other ideas? I must have missed something.

    TIA

    Larry
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Ignition wires, wow. Miatas are known for that problem but I never would have guessed that was the issue on your Subie.

    Larry: even a tiny bit can make a stench.

    Did you ever "burp" the system? Mine has a plastic phillips screw on the passenger side of the radiator. I watched the air bubbles flow out, it's cool.

    If it doesn't stop consider getting your oil analyzed by Bob is the oil guy.

    -juice
  • alyosha73alyosha73 Member Posts: 35
    Sorry didnt read the whole thread - sometimes these simptoms are caused by oxygene sensor mulfunction, if they come back, have those tested ( I know they should cause the engine light to come up, however it might take a while for that).
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    About a month ago the recovery tank on my 04 FXT was empty. I opened the radiator cap and it was full, so I bought some antifreeeze and added it to the full mark on the recovery tank. It has held that level since, but it is a mystery how I lost about a cup's worth of antifreeze seemly all of a sudden. Like post 3544 I couldn't find any obvious leak, but I didn't smell coolant. The FXT has about 10,000 on the odo.
  • john284john284 Member Posts: 71
    at 69k, grease all leaked out, now that is a stench. The gash is on top of the boot, couldn't imagine what happened, once had a flat tire on that wheel, that may be it...
  • joybelljoybell Member Posts: 275
    Actually, I'm really surprised that the CEL never came on. Maybe I'm missing a dash bulb there, or have a defective one? I also had defective hose clamps which caused coolant loss (gave me HG phobia until the cause of the leak was found). So maybe those who are posting about loosing coolant should check into that. The defective hose clamps were replaced and I haven't lost anymore coolant since.
  • mchinmchin Member Posts: 22
    I was wondering if the rough idle went away when you start driving?
    When I start up my 04 OB, it idles high until I start driving. Was your idle high as well? Thanks.
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Subarus are known to be able to trap air in their cooling systems. If a new car shows some loss and then stabilizes, I wouldn't worry too much as it could be the system being purged as you drive.

    Greg

    P.S. I believe the recommendation is to raise the front of the car when filling your coolant after a drain to help remove air.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    I have always thought the CV boots turned with the shaft. Are you saying the inner boot does not turn?

    John
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