Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    Remember - it is important to drive with the dealership service staff to demonstrate a concern you have that may be difficult to duplicate. If you are ever refused that right, please call us immediately. If you are have a situation that only occurs during initial start up, or when the car is cold, leave the car overnight (get a rental if under warranty or if you have Added Security - disclaimers away) - go to the dealership in the AM and get in the car with them. It really helps to demonstrate what you are experiencing so they can fix it. Just my $.02.

    Patti
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    I seem to recall technical tip to dealers that explained the "feel" in '98 or '99 MY Foresters. From what I recall, we did have some customer complaints that the pedal felt too soft. The bulletin recommends the dealer make an adjustment to the pedal. It does not change the "performance" of the brakes, but it does change the feel. If your dealer isn't familiar with the technical tip, you should ask them to call their Tech. Line for information.

    Have a great Monday!

    Patti
  • ochsskochssk Member Posts: 52
    Our brand new LL Bean pulls slightly to the right. I seem to recall other postings about the alignment being off on new Subies. Is this something the dealer will cover if I take it in to have it checked? Also would the dealer be less likely to cover the cost if I wait till the first oil change at 3000 miles?
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Steve- Your dealer should gladly check out the alignment for you and of course there will be no charge (FYI: items such as this are normally fully covered for the first 12k). One thought though... a slight pull to the right is typical on roads that have a perceptible crown so you should rule that out before taking it in.

    -Frank P.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Jeff: I'd consider an extended warranty. I too bought a 1998 model, but it was very late in the production year, just before the 99s came out. It's been quite good.

    The normal adjustment period is 12 months/12k miles, so they'll cover it. But I'd go soon if you suspect alignment is off, so the tires don't wear unevenly.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Jeff -- My 98 had a few problems too, but they've all been taken care of and it's running fine. I'd follow Patti's advice and have it documented.

    Patti -- That's great advice. Always, always have a tech ride with you when you want to point out a problem that's subjective. It sometimes is as simple as the tech not noticing it as much as you. As for the brake feel, it's interesting since my 98 feels a lot more solid than my other freinds 99 and 00.

    Alignments -- My position on alignments is that it's something anyone can do but few can do right. While your dealer will do it for free, I would take it to a specialty shop. But then again, that's just me.

    Ken
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    Patti: lots of good feedback here for people with problems. A lot of times owners get excited and agitated when problems arise to the point that they cannot clearly explain their observations (well, at least me, and I have been known to be trigger happy).

    Re brake feel: I have read that there is an aftermarket fix being touted out of Australia - a bracket that uses stock mounting points to reduce the flex in the firewall where the master cylinder is attached. I can't vouch for it nor can I imagine that SoA would, either. The bracket may only work for RHD vehicles at this time - I don't know for sure. I have read and heard also that some people have resorted to replacing OEM brake lines with braided stainless steel lines. Again I can't imagine SoA would endorse this but having driven other cars before and after SS brake line upgrades I can say that it does make a difference.

    Ed
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    when you are talking about "feel". The good thing is that they can address it. Ed - I don't think it is the same as what you have read. (going by my feeble memory) - I believe it was just a matter of a pedal adjustment?? Either way, if someone doesn't like it, there is an answer at the dealer.

    Thanks.

    Patti
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    I have no doubt that the adjustment would take care of it. The brake pedal feel in Subarus might take some getting used to, but the pedal feel in my experience bears no relationship to the stopping distances, which are very good.

    Ed
  • allie_gatorallie_gator Member Posts: 4
    My RS has just over 16,000 miles. However, since around the 12k mark (I'd have to check my records for actual mileage) I've been having a series of problems.

    I think it was around 12K that the check engine light came on. It was thought by dealer that it had something to do with the fuel level sensor.

    It took awhile for that part to get ordered and by the time it came in I had another problem to be checked also which was that when starting my car when it was very cold (20-40 degrees F)it sounded like a helicopter. (not quite as loud as helicopter but certainly louder than ever before.) Every press on the gass makes the helicopter sound speed up. Kind of a clacking sound under the hood. When my friend pressed down on the front part of the engine area the sound would stop. The sound would also go away after I had driven the car for a few minutes.

    Also, this sound/racket NEVER had happened during the cars whole first winter. This was definitely a new sound. It doesn't happen everytime on start up. Just about 80% of the cold weather start-ups.

    So, when I went back to get the feul level censor replaced I told them of the new noisy engine sound.

    They kept the car overnight so they could hear it on start up. THey also did some scheduled maintainence whatever was due/required at the time. They also fixed a few minor things I had noticed that had nothing to do with mechanics.
    When I picked it up the service office was closed but pick up place was open. They told me that the engine noise was just normal (this still surprises me and not sure I believe it)

    As I was driving it home I instantly noticed something wrong with clutch. It was vibrating when letting out on the clutch at slow speeds or in reverse.

    I immediately called the dealer to find out why this suddenly happened and also that they had forgot to replace the feul level sensor according to the paperwork. They apologized, I took it back in but they were stumped on the clutch vibrations. They had it about 10 days total. Did replace the fuel level sensor. First mechanics thought clutch thing was clutch pressure plates, but lead mechanic later found out it was just some kind of tiny piece (?stopper, no I'll have to tell you what the little piece was) but it was rubbing against the firewall and causing the clutch vibration. So that fixed that. It was kind of a pain that it took 10 days but they gave me a loaner car for free (I had not paid for loaner car service when bought car...it was optional?) but they gave me loaner car anyway.
    I have to say that the Service Dealer guy was very apologetic and diligent and it honestly took me going in their for a ride along for the mechanic to know what I was talking about. (by the way I think the car was around 15K at this point since I'd been in a few times for these problems.

    So the clutch vibrating problem was fixed and the fuel sensor replaced. However I still get the helicopter sound at start up sometimes. Then just today around 16K when I was noticing the helicopter sound a bit at start up even when not cold .... well then the Check Engine Light came on AGAIN! Sigh, I am going to call the dealer again in the morning. However wondering if I should call the same dealer (one I bought it from) or another Suburu Dealer which is slightly closer. I think that the Service/Customer Service people have been very kind and I have not been charged for anything (well except for scheduled maitenence stuff). But not charged for any of these other problems. However, I am not so sure if those mechanics are missing something with that engine start up noice and the check engine light issue. I was told sometimes the light comes on if the gas cap is loose but everysince the 12K mark when they told me that I have been careful to make sure I put gas cap on tightly.
    This time when the check engine light came on I had only about 1.5 gallons of gas in the engine. The last time I had a near full tank. I am not a mechanic so I don't understand why there is a correlation with check engine and fuel level sensor. Its all greek to me. LOL.

    Do you think I should call the same/original dealer again? Should I get a 2nd opinion on these things by going to a different dealer? Do the other dealers do the same warranty work or do I have to take it back to the same dealer that has been dealing with these issues the whole time.

    I am happy with the 1st dealer as far as their willingness to resolve problems and courtesy, just not sure I am confident in their mechanics abilities to find the problems.

    Any advice? Has anyone else had similar problems with their RS's? Is it normal to have these kinds of things happen on low mileage cars? I honestly can't remember how many times I've been in since 12K but I think 3 or 4. I have great patience but wondering if I got a defective car?
    Any advice?
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    It sounds like you have been through a lot. Could you please call us at 1-800-SUBARU3? A Representative can start a case and follow-up with your dealer to see what is going on. We can also make sure your dealer takes advantage of our technical resources.

    Sorry for the problems. I'm sure we can straighten the situation out. Once you have a case started, tell the Representative that you are from Edmunds and that I would like to see your case. Please make sure you have your VIN, mileage and the names of the folks at the dealership you have been working with.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If you only have 1.5gal in the car, chances are the CEL came on because you stirred up junk in the bottom of the tank and sucked it into the engine causing one of the sensors to read poor fuel. You should never run your tank down that far because all the junk at the bottom of the tank gets stirred up when you do that. It doesn't seem like you have had all that many problems with your car, IMHO, but I'd definitely try a different dealer since the first one didn't seem to be able to fix the tapping sound on startup. My guess is that it's a bad oil pump.

    patti: I wonder if an oil pressure guage would help diagnose this problem? hint hint suttle suttle :)

    -mike
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Love my oil pressure guage in my XT6. I actually figured out that my oil pump is going on it cause my '91 that has a new oil pump develops about 15psi more pressure than my '88. It's nice to have guages :)

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'd actually like to see the oil cooler from the auto tranny models make it across to the manual tranny models. Imagine the pain it would have saved Toyota if they had them!

    -juice
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    Juice: Actually the OEM engine oil cooler is about as simple a mod as you can imagine, mostly due to the fact that everything is so easy to get at in that area.

    I bought the OEM parts on-line, after determining that my local dealer wanted 35% more for them, and bolted it on in about 20 minutes. I saved the coolant into a clean container for reuse (low miles at the time), and did an oil change as well. Unfortunately, I didn't have my gauge pack installed until later, so I can't say what the impact was exactly, but it definately helped my peace of mind when towing our camper.

    Patti: Thanks for the feedback on my soft brake pedal. The value of your presence here can't be overstated. I'll have the dealer look into adjusting the pedal feel the next time I bring it in. As you know from following this board, I've just been through a rather painful experience with them (bug shield/paint job fiasco), so I'm not too anxious to take it back to them.

    The pedal feel is improved since the dealer took it upon themselves to adjust them (part of making good on the above-mentioned fiasco, which I really appreciated), but my wife still hates the brakes. I'm not impressed with the stopping distances either - I'd say they're very average.

    With one exception, our other cars have had outstanding brakes, and I honestly think it's a case of what we're used to coloring our perception. Anyone used to Chrysler brakes for instance would be ecstatic, based on my experience(but my wife never drove that car...)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    How much for those parts? Seems like a good upgrade for anyone that really pushes their engine hard.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Lee Ann -- You're in good hands with Patti. A little patience goes a long way.

    juice, bsvoller -- So, why is it that MT vehicles don't come equipped with oil coolers? Does the oil cooler help with the heat from torque converters?

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Don't know, Ken. One guess is that people tow more with the auto?

    How about a tow package that adds the oil cooler and maybe a tranny cooler as well, plus rear discs on the L model and maybe bigger rotors up front, too?

    I'd pay for it.

    -juice
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Absolutely! Subaru needs to offer this as an option.

    Bob
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    Most people probably do tow with the AT, simply because you get torque multiplication from a standstill. I didn't intend to use the Forester as our primary tow vehicle when we bought it, but we bought a house instead of a mini-van the following year, so our Forester MT will do for now. (The MT is definately preferable at altitude for driving performance, which was our major consideration at the time.)

    As to the oil cooler, I got it from Teague Auto over the net for something over $300, which was a cool $100 less than my dealer. All new OEM parts, including hose clamps and the whole shibang.

    I'd pay for a "real" tow package with an engine oil cooler, bigger brakes and a class II rating, gladly.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If I end up getting that trailer, I'll strongly consider the oil cooler too.

    -juice
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Mike- "If you only have 1.5gal in the car, chances are the CEL came on because you stirred up junk in the bottom of the tank and sucked it into the engine causing one of the sensors to read poor fuel. You should never run your tank down that far because all the junk at the bottom of the tank gets stirred up when you do that."

    Nope, sorry but I disagree. Unless Lee Ann lives in a former Soviet republic and is burning semi-crude sludge, it's highly unlikely that a car with only 16k on the odo would have a measurable amount of junk in the tank. In fact, I routinely don't fill up until the low fuel light comes on at the 2 gal mark and have yet to have a problem.

    -Frank P.
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    The gauge pack with the oil temp and voltage meters comes in handy too. It's important to hit the minimum oil temperature, so that you boil off water and contaminants. With the big electrical draw via the trailer brakes, I like to monitor how the alternator is keeping up with the load too.

    Frankly, the gauge pack is ludicrously overpriced IMHO, but I bought it with Subaru MC credits, so it was free.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You have more faith in fuel stations than I do. I know how sleezy some of the gas station owners can be, and for that reason I always fill up with 1/4 tank left in there. It's a cheap pre-cautionary measure. Kinda like 3K oil changes.

    -mike
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Which I don't do either. Same goes for extended warranties. I guess I like to live on the edge whereas you like driving on it!

    -Frank P.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    nice :) ROFL. where is this edge we speak of?

    -mike
  • allie_gatorallie_gator Member Posts: 4
    That is interesting about refilling sooner. I will keep that in mind. I had once heard a car expert on tv say that you get better gas mileage if you don't fill the tank up. (If you lets say only every fill it 1/2 up). He claimed that they extra weight of guess , makes the car weigh more thus causing to use up more gas.

    Honestly, I still had been filling it up. But the last few weeks I'd been getting gas in DC which is higher than Maryland so only putting in a couple gallons at a time until I could go to the gas stations in Maryland.

    Now that you mention sleazy gas stations, the gas station I go to often (closest) actually price gouged on Sept 11th! I was considering heading out of the Md/DC area that day due to crazy reports on the news that some rogue nation might get the bright idea to launch a nuclear missle at DC during all the confusion. (some irresponsible commentator). Well anyhow I decided I better fill my car up in case I needed to leave town. And I was shocked to find the gas prices had gone up by 40 cents a gallon on that day! Ubelieveable!

    What brands and Octane are the best do you think for a 2.5 RS?

    Thanks Patti, I am a night shift worker so haven't called the dealer yet today. I may take the metro and call them tomorrow am.

    I was just on the general message board about engine sludge (all types of cars). Some people saying that the places they took their cars for oil changes weren't changing the oil filter. Now that is scary.

    This Subaru is my first new car.

    This is good to have a board like this to help everyone try to figure stuff out.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The other advantage of keeping the tank fuller is that if you get water in the gas tank, it is less likely to freeze being mixed with more gas than if there is less gas in there.

    For the 2.5RS I'd say stick with Major companies like Shell, Mobil/Exxon, Amoco, Texaco, Sunoco, also go to stations that do a lot of business high volume places and "new" places that have new tanks are also the best ones to go to so as not to get contaminents in your tank.

    The extra weight is almost negligable on our cars cause the tank is pretty small. Its not like a 40gal tank that would make a difference.

    -mike
  • allie_gatorallie_gator Member Posts: 4
    oh that reminds me. The dealer did drain gas tank before a couple times in the process of the last check engine light/ fuel level censor thing.

    Wouldn't they have noticed/told me at that point if I had any "sludge" or whatever in the bottom?
  • allie_gatorallie_gator Member Posts: 4
    I do go to Mobil about 1/5 of the time but it is a very little Mobil station.

    The gas station I go to the most is CitGo.

    Does it make much of a difference to use higher Octanes on the RS?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You know we have a saying about Citgo... Citgo ryhms with something itgo I'd not use them anymore personally.

    -mike
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Not necessary unless you notice "pinging".

    -Frank P.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I don't let the tank get too empty, but for an entirely different reason - condensation. Keep it near full in the coldest months, to prevent water in the gas tank.

    Also, while half a tank is lighter, you also have gas sloshing around in turns, shifting the weight all over the place.

    DC higher than MD? You must be in PG or Howard County. In Potomac it's 1.29 or so, vs. about 10 cents less even in Georgetown.

    Go Terps! :-)

    -juice
  • snowbeltersnowbelter Member Posts: 288
    I've recently purchased a 02 VDC wagon which I am greatly enjoying. Its out second Outback in the past 18 months. Both cars came with an annoying problem. There's a foreign substance on the windshield which at night, in the rain, causes the wipers to blur the windshield on one sweep and clear it the next. This is a problem known to Subaru as there's a Memo out on it. There was some talk the with our first cAr that the substance was cosmolene which had bonded to the windshield. Our dealer has been responsive and has tried once so far to "clean" the material from the windshield, but its still there. (This problem took a few months and a number of trips to fix on the first car). Anyone else have this problem? I've talked with SOA Customer Service and their repsonse has been underwhelming to say the least, and for now have nothing to offer me except to say I should bring the car back to the dealer. I'm looking to fix the problem.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    The substance is on the outside? Well, if Subaru has a memo on it, your dealer should be able to help, but in the meantime, I have a couple of suggestions. First, use an ammonia based glass cleaner. Next, wipe the blades with rubbing alcohol. Between the two, you should be able to fix your problem.

    Most of the complaints I hear about windows is on the inside. Modern plastics do emit some substance that gets on the inside of the windows. This is especially bad in the hot months and in new cars, although some do it forever. Again, the ammonia based cleaners are the answer. Cracking your windows in the summer helps too.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Out gassing? I think that's what they call it. I 2nd the suggestions above.

    -juice
  • snowbeltersnowbelter Member Posts: 288
    The substance is on the outside of the windshield and ammonia-based cleaners do nothing.. The cleaning procedure used by the dealer is a paste with grit (Subaru suggests Starbrite), and rubbing with fine steel wool, before washing off. That's been done once on this new car and hasn't worked. It was done numerous times on my wife's car before the problem was fixed. Subaru tells me they'll talk with the Service Manager of my dealership next week when he's back from vacation and offers me no suggestion for a "fix" now, other than Starbrite and insults me by telling me that they don't have many complaints about this, and that their responsiveness is reflected by their calling to tell me they'll talk to the Service Manager next week.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    One other thing you might try is to use a non-abrasive glass polish. Rain-X makes one that you can buy at any auto store and it's great for removing stubborn build up -- including Rain-X!

    Ken
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    Fine grade steel wool is great stuff on windows. It works wonders on bugs when used with a good glass cleaner. It will scare you the first time you use it because you will see swirl marks at first. They go away though.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    I'll take a look at your case in the morning. We should be able to take care of this issue pretty easily. One note of caution - if you are tempted to go to the "automatic" car wash, avoid the wax. That can cause problems like you are experiencing. Since you are in the "snowbelt" I don't imagine you have a lot of choices about washing your car outside, but, w/o wax is best if you have to go through one.

    I'll post tomorrow or ask someone to pay a bit more attention to your case. Sorry for the let down.

    Patti
  • seayakkerseayakker Member Posts: 57
    Sheesh one of the few actual thrills I let myself indulge in anymore is seeing how low the gas gauge will get before I get to the station....and not only is this questionably healthy for my nerves but it's also questionable for the car?

    Another reason to change my ways as I get older....

    Jillian
    Still loving the '02 Bean, almost ready for the 1st oil change
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    episode that dealt with that feeling. Cramer test driving with a salesman? I think it was one of the funniest episodes (another of the few TV shows that I can't get enough of)!

    Glad you're still loving that '02 Bean.

    Patti
  • jeijei Member Posts: 143
    I'm researching new tires for my '99 Forester "S" for 3-season use. Might go to 225-60-16 size if the section width doesn't grow too much. I have 215-70-15 snow/ice tires on steel rims for upstate NY winters. I do mostly highway driving at fairly high speeds. In order of importance are:
    - Precise wet handling & resistance to hydroplaning, important for the real-world highway commute here
    - Precise steering response for day-to-day handling and enjoyment as the car ages. Equal or better feel than the OEM Yoko Geolandar H/Ts, which I liked except in snow
    - Ride comfort: Not too edgy, without a lot of kicks & harshness
    - Gas mileage should not suffer. I already get around 22-23 MPG with automatic transmission & heavy foot
    - Low noise levels desirable
    - Expected tread life 50,000 miles or more. I'm good with alignments & tire pressure.
    - Decent snow performance in case I get caught in early or late storms. I try to conserve wear on the snow tires

    I've been reading comments here and on Tirerack.com. Leading candidates are:
    - Dunlop SP Sport A-2. All-around capabilities, decent price
    - Bridgestone Potenza RE 950. Edgier, more aggressive character, reports of reduced gas mileage. Looks sharp.
    - Michelin X-One. Seems more mainstream, but high quality. Good review from Consumer Reports. Pricey, but should wear well.
    - Wild card: Cooper Cobra GTH-symmetric. Probably in a different group. No info, but I have a great local tire shop that sells Cooper.

    What has your experience been with these tires on Subarus or similar AWD vehicles?

    John
  • outback165outback165 Member Posts: 108
    John and Allie_Gator

    First on tires. I replaced the OEM Firestones on my 01 OB approx 10K miles ago with Potenza RE950s, and LOVE them. As great as the OB was in South Florida rain, with the 950s I honestly feel as though there is a bottle of rubber cement being poured out in front of my car as I drive down the road. These tires on a GT would be amazing (perhaps OEM, Patti...???!!!), but I digress. Craig (c_hunter) and I discussed this several months back as he bought new tires at approx the same time. He suggested, and I second the idea, to purchase the Bridgestone alignment and balancing contracts. I forget the exact $$ but I did the math (and left the complicated physics analysis to Craig!), and the second time you do this the contracts pay for themselves. They are good nationwide so if you move or go on a road trip...

    My sister has a 96 OB with 90K miles and is on her second set of Michelins. The first set wore VERY well --- 60+K miles!!! My wife's car (95 Taurus *yawn*) has Coopers on them. Very good tire - we've taken long road trips with this car and after 8 or 10 hours they are still great, and in the rain they are excellent too. I think Coopers are somewhat under rated.

    Re gas. I very often will drive until my tank is almost dry. I just ended a job that was a 50 mile commute each way. I would try to fill up on my way to work on the fourth day -- which usually had 347-352 miles on the trip odometer. I did the math at each fill up and I consistently got 23+ MPG, and usually filled 15+ gallons. Usually the better part of last commute was done with "idiot light" on. (in this case, the idiot being me!) No good reason for this, but alas, I did it anyway. Usually I try to fill up with approx 250-300 miles on the trip odo. It is good to know though that there is approx two gallons once that light goes on.

    I agree with Mike re name brand gas and new(er) stations. I've had a lot of luck with MobileExxon, but I think Texaco and Sunoco are also good brands. Mike, what rhymes with "itgo"?

    Question for the board: I picked up somewhere (don't know where) that it's actually a good idea to pick three of four differnt gas brands and to switch every couple of months. Something about switching the "detergents" that are used. Any thoughts re that? I don't live by it, but in writing this post remembered it.

    Anyhow, my thoughts. Hope to be able to spend a little more time on the boards this week.

    Pete.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Citgo. But I use Chevron when I can find it, because they use a bit of Techron even in their regular fuel.

    So Ken:

    Rain X + Rain X polish = nothing? ;-)

    John: the tires I use, Nitto NT460, were perfect until you said "decent snow performance". They are very quiet, haven't worn at all in 15k miles, and handle better wet and dry compared to the Duelers I had before. Not to mention my size is exactly what you want, 225/60R16.

    If you have snow tires and an accurate forecast, they are a real bargin from tires.com (Discount Tire Direct). IIRC they were just $57 each at the time.

    -juice
  • jeijei Member Posts: 143
    Which Cooper tires are on your wife's Taurus? Our '92 Legacy wagon has the Cooper Lifeliners which last and last, but aren't too sporty.

    Which Michelins on your sister's Outback? The XW4s or whatever outline white letter tires that used to come OEM?

    John
  • jeijei Member Posts: 143
    Juice- I'll look them up on tires.com. I haven't seen Nittos in this part of the world, so hadn't thought of them. Price sounds great. Thanks.

    John
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I haven't tried it, but what about Clearvue? IIRC, it only became available to the general public a few years ago. I belive it has acetone in it.

    Never had a problem with carwash wax. I recently switched to Bosch wiper refills. Wow, what a difference!

    -Dennis
  • outback165outback165 Member Posts: 108
    Wifey has Lifeliner Classic IIs. Sis has OEM replacements by dealer (for some reason better than her local Good Year dealer at the time) - with white raised letters. Both very happy with tires. I would imagine that any retailer would have similar maintenance contracts.

    Patti, I second all the kudos others have paid you, and have nothing original to add. I'm sure SOA benefits enormously from your participation here. Bravo.

    Peter.
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