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Comments
Patti
Have a great Monday!
Patti
-Frank P.
The normal adjustment period is 12 months/12k miles, so they'll cover it. But I'd go soon if you suspect alignment is off, so the tires don't wear unevenly.
-juice
Patti -- That's great advice. Always, always have a tech ride with you when you want to point out a problem that's subjective. It sometimes is as simple as the tech not noticing it as much as you. As for the brake feel, it's interesting since my 98 feels a lot more solid than my other freinds 99 and 00.
Alignments -- My position on alignments is that it's something anyone can do but few can do right. While your dealer will do it for free, I would take it to a specialty shop. But then again, that's just me.
Ken
Re brake feel: I have read that there is an aftermarket fix being touted out of Australia - a bracket that uses stock mounting points to reduce the flex in the firewall where the master cylinder is attached. I can't vouch for it nor can I imagine that SoA would, either. The bracket may only work for RHD vehicles at this time - I don't know for sure. I have read and heard also that some people have resorted to replacing OEM brake lines with braided stainless steel lines. Again I can't imagine SoA would endorse this but having driven other cars before and after SS brake line upgrades I can say that it does make a difference.
Ed
Thanks.
Patti
Ed
I think it was around 12K that the check engine light came on. It was thought by dealer that it had something to do with the fuel level sensor.
It took awhile for that part to get ordered and by the time it came in I had another problem to be checked also which was that when starting my car when it was very cold (20-40 degrees F)it sounded like a helicopter. (not quite as loud as helicopter but certainly louder than ever before.) Every press on the gass makes the helicopter sound speed up. Kind of a clacking sound under the hood. When my friend pressed down on the front part of the engine area the sound would stop. The sound would also go away after I had driven the car for a few minutes.
Also, this sound/racket NEVER had happened during the cars whole first winter. This was definitely a new sound. It doesn't happen everytime on start up. Just about 80% of the cold weather start-ups.
So, when I went back to get the feul level censor replaced I told them of the new noisy engine sound.
They kept the car overnight so they could hear it on start up. THey also did some scheduled maintainence whatever was due/required at the time. They also fixed a few minor things I had noticed that had nothing to do with mechanics.
When I picked it up the service office was closed but pick up place was open. They told me that the engine noise was just normal (this still surprises me and not sure I believe it)
As I was driving it home I instantly noticed something wrong with clutch. It was vibrating when letting out on the clutch at slow speeds or in reverse.
I immediately called the dealer to find out why this suddenly happened and also that they had forgot to replace the feul level sensor according to the paperwork. They apologized, I took it back in but they were stumped on the clutch vibrations. They had it about 10 days total. Did replace the fuel level sensor. First mechanics thought clutch thing was clutch pressure plates, but lead mechanic later found out it was just some kind of tiny piece (?stopper, no I'll have to tell you what the little piece was) but it was rubbing against the firewall and causing the clutch vibration. So that fixed that. It was kind of a pain that it took 10 days but they gave me a loaner car for free (I had not paid for loaner car service when bought car...it was optional?) but they gave me loaner car anyway.
I have to say that the Service Dealer guy was very apologetic and diligent and it honestly took me going in their for a ride along for the mechanic to know what I was talking about. (by the way I think the car was around 15K at this point since I'd been in a few times for these problems.
So the clutch vibrating problem was fixed and the fuel sensor replaced. However I still get the helicopter sound at start up sometimes. Then just today around 16K when I was noticing the helicopter sound a bit at start up even when not cold .... well then the Check Engine Light came on AGAIN! Sigh, I am going to call the dealer again in the morning. However wondering if I should call the same dealer (one I bought it from) or another Suburu Dealer which is slightly closer. I think that the Service/Customer Service people have been very kind and I have not been charged for anything (well except for scheduled maitenence stuff). But not charged for any of these other problems. However, I am not so sure if those mechanics are missing something with that engine start up noice and the check engine light issue. I was told sometimes the light comes on if the gas cap is loose but everysince the 12K mark when they told me that I have been careful to make sure I put gas cap on tightly.
This time when the check engine light came on I had only about 1.5 gallons of gas in the engine. The last time I had a near full tank. I am not a mechanic so I don't understand why there is a correlation with check engine and fuel level sensor. Its all greek to me. LOL.
Do you think I should call the same/original dealer again? Should I get a 2nd opinion on these things by going to a different dealer? Do the other dealers do the same warranty work or do I have to take it back to the same dealer that has been dealing with these issues the whole time.
I am happy with the 1st dealer as far as their willingness to resolve problems and courtesy, just not sure I am confident in their mechanics abilities to find the problems.
Any advice? Has anyone else had similar problems with their RS's? Is it normal to have these kinds of things happen on low mileage cars? I honestly can't remember how many times I've been in since 12K but I think 3 or 4. I have great patience but wondering if I got a defective car?
Any advice?
Sorry for the problems. I'm sure we can straighten the situation out. Once you have a case started, tell the Representative that you are from Edmunds and that I would like to see your case. Please make sure you have your VIN, mileage and the names of the folks at the dealership you have been working with.
Thanks!
Patti
patti: I wonder if an oil pressure guage would help diagnose this problem? hint hint suttle suttle
-mike
-mike
-juice
I bought the OEM parts on-line, after determining that my local dealer wanted 35% more for them, and bolted it on in about 20 minutes. I saved the coolant into a clean container for reuse (low miles at the time), and did an oil change as well. Unfortunately, I didn't have my gauge pack installed until later, so I can't say what the impact was exactly, but it definately helped my peace of mind when towing our camper.
Patti: Thanks for the feedback on my soft brake pedal. The value of your presence here can't be overstated. I'll have the dealer look into adjusting the pedal feel the next time I bring it in. As you know from following this board, I've just been through a rather painful experience with them (bug shield/paint job fiasco), so I'm not too anxious to take it back to them.
The pedal feel is improved since the dealer took it upon themselves to adjust them (part of making good on the above-mentioned fiasco, which I really appreciated), but my wife still hates the brakes. I'm not impressed with the stopping distances either - I'd say they're very average.
With one exception, our other cars have had outstanding brakes, and I honestly think it's a case of what we're used to coloring our perception. Anyone used to Chrysler brakes for instance would be ecstatic, based on my experience(but my wife never drove that car...)
-juice
juice, bsvoller -- So, why is it that MT vehicles don't come equipped with oil coolers? Does the oil cooler help with the heat from torque converters?
Ken
How about a tow package that adds the oil cooler and maybe a tranny cooler as well, plus rear discs on the L model and maybe bigger rotors up front, too?
I'd pay for it.
-juice
Bob
As to the oil cooler, I got it from Teague Auto over the net for something over $300, which was a cool $100 less than my dealer. All new OEM parts, including hose clamps and the whole shibang.
I'd pay for a "real" tow package with an engine oil cooler, bigger brakes and a class II rating, gladly.
-juice
Nope, sorry but I disagree. Unless Lee Ann lives in a former Soviet republic and is burning semi-crude sludge, it's highly unlikely that a car with only 16k on the odo would have a measurable amount of junk in the tank. In fact, I routinely don't fill up until the low fuel light comes on at the 2 gal mark and have yet to have a problem.
-Frank P.
Frankly, the gauge pack is ludicrously overpriced IMHO, but I bought it with Subaru MC credits, so it was free.
-mike
-Frank P.
-mike
Honestly, I still had been filling it up. But the last few weeks I'd been getting gas in DC which is higher than Maryland so only putting in a couple gallons at a time until I could go to the gas stations in Maryland.
Now that you mention sleazy gas stations, the gas station I go to often (closest) actually price gouged on Sept 11th! I was considering heading out of the Md/DC area that day due to crazy reports on the news that some rogue nation might get the bright idea to launch a nuclear missle at DC during all the confusion. (some irresponsible commentator). Well anyhow I decided I better fill my car up in case I needed to leave town. And I was shocked to find the gas prices had gone up by 40 cents a gallon on that day! Ubelieveable!
What brands and Octane are the best do you think for a 2.5 RS?
Thanks Patti, I am a night shift worker so haven't called the dealer yet today. I may take the metro and call them tomorrow am.
I was just on the general message board about engine sludge (all types of cars). Some people saying that the places they took their cars for oil changes weren't changing the oil filter. Now that is scary.
This Subaru is my first new car.
This is good to have a board like this to help everyone try to figure stuff out.
For the 2.5RS I'd say stick with Major companies like Shell, Mobil/Exxon, Amoco, Texaco, Sunoco, also go to stations that do a lot of business high volume places and "new" places that have new tanks are also the best ones to go to so as not to get contaminents in your tank.
The extra weight is almost negligable on our cars cause the tank is pretty small. Its not like a 40gal tank that would make a difference.
-mike
Wouldn't they have noticed/told me at that point if I had any "sludge" or whatever in the bottom?
The gas station I go to the most is CitGo.
Does it make much of a difference to use higher Octanes on the RS?
-mike
-Frank P.
Also, while half a tank is lighter, you also have gas sloshing around in turns, shifting the weight all over the place.
DC higher than MD? You must be in PG or Howard County. In Potomac it's 1.29 or so, vs. about 10 cents less even in Georgetown.
Go Terps! :-)
-juice
Most of the complaints I hear about windows is on the inside. Modern plastics do emit some substance that gets on the inside of the windows. This is especially bad in the hot months and in new cars, although some do it forever. Again, the ammonia based cleaners are the answer. Cracking your windows in the summer helps too.
-juice
Ken
I'll post tomorrow or ask someone to pay a bit more attention to your case. Sorry for the let down.
Patti
Another reason to change my ways as I get older....
Jillian
Still loving the '02 Bean, almost ready for the 1st oil change
Glad you're still loving that '02 Bean.
Patti
- Precise wet handling & resistance to hydroplaning, important for the real-world highway commute here
- Precise steering response for day-to-day handling and enjoyment as the car ages. Equal or better feel than the OEM Yoko Geolandar H/Ts, which I liked except in snow
- Ride comfort: Not too edgy, without a lot of kicks & harshness
- Gas mileage should not suffer. I already get around 22-23 MPG with automatic transmission & heavy foot
- Low noise levels desirable
- Expected tread life 50,000 miles or more. I'm good with alignments & tire pressure.
- Decent snow performance in case I get caught in early or late storms. I try to conserve wear on the snow tires
I've been reading comments here and on Tirerack.com. Leading candidates are:
- Dunlop SP Sport A-2. All-around capabilities, decent price
- Bridgestone Potenza RE 950. Edgier, more aggressive character, reports of reduced gas mileage. Looks sharp.
- Michelin X-One. Seems more mainstream, but high quality. Good review from Consumer Reports. Pricey, but should wear well.
- Wild card: Cooper Cobra GTH-symmetric. Probably in a different group. No info, but I have a great local tire shop that sells Cooper.
What has your experience been with these tires on Subarus or similar AWD vehicles?
John
First on tires. I replaced the OEM Firestones on my 01 OB approx 10K miles ago with Potenza RE950s, and LOVE them. As great as the OB was in South Florida rain, with the 950s I honestly feel as though there is a bottle of rubber cement being poured out in front of my car as I drive down the road. These tires on a GT would be amazing (perhaps OEM, Patti...???!!!), but I digress. Craig (c_hunter) and I discussed this several months back as he bought new tires at approx the same time. He suggested, and I second the idea, to purchase the Bridgestone alignment and balancing contracts. I forget the exact $$ but I did the math (and left the complicated physics analysis to Craig!), and the second time you do this the contracts pay for themselves. They are good nationwide so if you move or go on a road trip...
My sister has a 96 OB with 90K miles and is on her second set of Michelins. The first set wore VERY well --- 60+K miles!!! My wife's car (95 Taurus *yawn*) has Coopers on them. Very good tire - we've taken long road trips with this car and after 8 or 10 hours they are still great, and in the rain they are excellent too. I think Coopers are somewhat under rated.
Re gas. I very often will drive until my tank is almost dry. I just ended a job that was a 50 mile commute each way. I would try to fill up on my way to work on the fourth day -- which usually had 347-352 miles on the trip odometer. I did the math at each fill up and I consistently got 23+ MPG, and usually filled 15+ gallons. Usually the better part of last commute was done with "idiot light" on. (in this case, the idiot being me!) No good reason for this, but alas, I did it anyway. Usually I try to fill up with approx 250-300 miles on the trip odo. It is good to know though that there is approx two gallons once that light goes on.
I agree with Mike re name brand gas and new(er) stations. I've had a lot of luck with MobileExxon, but I think Texaco and Sunoco are also good brands. Mike, what rhymes with "itgo"?
Question for the board: I picked up somewhere (don't know where) that it's actually a good idea to pick three of four differnt gas brands and to switch every couple of months. Something about switching the "detergents" that are used. Any thoughts re that? I don't live by it, but in writing this post remembered it.
Anyhow, my thoughts. Hope to be able to spend a little more time on the boards this week.
Pete.
So Ken:
Rain X + Rain X polish = nothing? ;-)
John: the tires I use, Nitto NT460, were perfect until you said "decent snow performance". They are very quiet, haven't worn at all in 15k miles, and handle better wet and dry compared to the Duelers I had before. Not to mention my size is exactly what you want, 225/60R16.
If you have snow tires and an accurate forecast, they are a real bargin from tires.com (Discount Tire Direct). IIRC they were just $57 each at the time.
-juice
Which Michelins on your sister's Outback? The XW4s or whatever outline white letter tires that used to come OEM?
John
John
Never had a problem with carwash wax. I recently switched to Bosch wiper refills. Wow, what a difference!
-Dennis
Patti, I second all the kudos others have paid you, and have nothing original to add. I'm sure SOA benefits enormously from your participation here. Bravo.
Peter.