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Comments
Michelin X-One: Great all around tire that wears well, but is expensive. The traction is decent wet or dry, and it performs well in the snow. I look at this tire like it's a middle-road tire...not a snow tire, not an all-out performance tire, but somewhere in between. The tire should meet your MPG expectations, will provide a smooth ride, and will surpass 50,000 miles (as long as it's not 50,000 miles of hard cornering).
Cooper Cobra GTH: The positive trait with this tire is the price. It's one of the least expensive H-rated performance tires you can find. However, the tire's performance probably will not meet your expectations. My set wore prematurely, I only made it to about 2/3 of the warranted tread life. Wet-road performance was poor, and snow handling was downright scary. Dry-road performance, cornering, and noise levels were decent, but certainly not legendary. Personally, I wouldn't purchase this tire again.
Another alternative to think about: Continental CH95. I just mounted these tires on my 2000 Legacy GT Limited a few months ago, and have been pleased with them. Aggressive handling on dry and wet roads is superb, and snow performance is also good for this type of tire. I live in Utah, and have been able to test the tire's perfomance in a number of conditions. The price is par for the course and the warranty is long. I've been extremely happy so far with my choice, and I wouldn't be afraid to say otherwise if I wasn't. One warning, though, is that the actual treadlife typically is shorter than than warranted treadlife. You could expect 40,000 miles from this tire.
I wish tires weren't such a gamble, but every tire handles differently on each type of car, and even different batches of the same tire handle uniquely on the same car. With tires you just have to roll the dice and see what comes of it. Good luck with yours!
Ty
I have a 98 Outback Ltd with manual five-speed transmission with 57,000 miles. I recently took the car in to have an oil leak repaired, which required disassembly and reassembly of the clutch. Since then I have noticed a pronounced "jutter" in the clutch at the friction point, during both up- and down-shifting. I told the service manager and he said that there was nothing they could do about it, it was harmless, and was due to a rough clutch plate, not any maladjustment during reassembly. I am concerned that this condition is bad for the clutch and will lead to problems in the future. Am I overly concerned? Is it fixable? Anyone else ever experience this problem?
Thanks!
Kevin
-juice
Also, I've always found Michellins to be good tires but pricey. My favorites have been Yokohama and Dunlop.
juice: Ironic, isn't it? The makers of Rain-X gets to capitalize on new, repeat and exiting customers!
Kevin: So you experienced no chatter before the repair? Were you on your original clutch? You may want to let the dealer know right away so that it's documented. Sounds like there might have been a problem when putting it back together.
Ken
I barely touch the gas at all as I start to engage the clutch. Once the vehicle starts moving then I slowly feed in more throttle. Only after the clutch is all the way up do I give it any real throttle input. (often to the floor, hehe.)
-Colin
1. Oil or another lubricant on the clutch plate
2. Glazed clutch plate (from being overheated)
3. Worn springs in the clutch plate
If the clutch was shuttering before you took into the shop, I would suspect the plate was either glazed or the springs were worn. However, since the condition didn't exist before the transmission was pulled, I'm guessing they exposed the clutch plate to some grease and didn't thoroughly clean it off before reassembly.
I wouldn't except the shop's excuse that there is nothing that can be done about the shutter. Be sure to emphasize that the problem didn't exist before you took it in. Ask them to see their written documentation showing the problem existed before they began work; I'm guessing they don't have it. Every shop should do a preliminary test drive before dropping a transmission and note problems like that.
Tell the shop you're aware that grease on the clutch plate can cause this problem, and suggest maybe they accidentally got a little on it. See where that takes you.
Just for future reference, if you ever have the manual transmission of any vehicle dropped for any reason, and the clutch plate hasn't been replaced in 50,000 miles or more, consider having the plate replaced even if it's running just fine. Clutch jobs are almost all labor, so having a new plate thrown in will save you money down the road. That's just my opinion, of course.
Good luck.
Ty
Thanks!
Patti
I wasn't meaning that as a solution to shudder in lieu of service in this case, I was meaning that the method works well for me to avoid shudder. I haven't felt it in some time.
I was kidding about the wide-open throttle.
-Colin
For other Edmunds participants - unfortunately, it can take our Reps. 24 to 48 hours to get information on some issues. If you have a repair problem, please make sure you are working with someone in the Service Dept. to address your concerns. The Sales Dept. is not always kept informed on repair issues and they are not always equipped to respond correctly.
Sorry about the problem, Martin, but it does appear that they are on the right track for a resolution.
Thanks!
Patti
Where do we stand with the case I started regarding the lack of service at Troncalli? I also have some suspicions of previous service visits I would like to discuss with you. Please let me know what to do next.
-r
What I found was a total surprise. The filters may be much better than not having anything there at all, but, there is so much space for air to bypass the filters that a lot of the really small stuff can get by. The filter media is not sealed to the frame at the edges (which means there is an air gap there) and the sides where the filters mount inside the box have no seal either...there are a couple of refrigerant lines passing through the box right where the filters seat so there is no way to seal that end nor the two access doors. My Odyssey has a spongy seal all the way around the filter so that no air can bypass the filter. IMHO this is a poor design. The filters should be re-worked so that the media is caulked to the frame on all sides (right now it can slide like an accordian) and there should be a 'track' for the filters to slide into with no air gap any where around the filters...otherwise you are totally defeating the purpose of the filters.
The good news is that they are still better than nothing. They were pretty dirty but not as dirty as I expected them to be considering I keep the outside air open most of the time.
-r
All these things are connected somehow. Was having the same problems last fall, but they went away after I replaced the copper connections in the starter solenoid. I was having intermittant starting problems due to scoring and wear on the connections. The starting problem has not come back, but just recently all three other problems showed up again. The fuel guage reads half-full when it is nearly empty, the idle seems to jump around a lot and sometimes stutters when pulling up to a stoplight with the clutch in, and yesterday, the dreaded CEL came back.
I can't figure out how all these things are connected. I am going to change the spark plugs and wires and see if that helps. Anybody got any ideas?
98 Outback wagon, 5-spd, 42,000 miles.
I'm afraid I have more questions than answers right now.
When was the last time the spark plugs were replaced? If they haven't been replaced yet, now would be a good time. The wires should still be in good shape at 42,000 miles unless they've been subjected to unusually high heat. You can test those with a multimeter before you replace them.
Have you had the computer codes read yet? Since the CEL came on, there should definitely be codes stored in the OB's memory. If you did have them read, what did they report? If not, you should have them read before continuing with your investigation.
Is the vehicle still under warranty?
Ty
Last fall when I had the same problems the code for the Idle Air Control valve came up. The dealership replaced it for free due to the fact that the problems began immediately after I bought the car (used).
The problems continued. A local shop pulled the code for the speed sensor ( I think), but once I replaced the starter contacts, everything magically disappeared.
just a thought.
-Brian
-mike
Just a thought...
Let us know?
Patti
-juice
Once you've performed the 30,000-mile maintenance service, have the dealer complete an engine diagnostic, as Patti and Juice recommended. They'll read the computer codes, and they'll check the electrical and mechanical components for proper operation. Use that remaining powertrain warranty for everything it's worth.
Brian brought up an interesting point about disconnecting the battery terminals. As long as it doesn't erase the computer codes, you could try disconnecting the battery before taking the OB into the shop for a diagnostic.
I suspect that the there's an electrical short or ground somewhere, but I'm not sure of that. Unfortunately, electrical problems are difficult to trace, and are best left to professionals. I had some electrical problems with a V6 Camry a number of years ago, and found a shop that specialized in electrical systems. They had specialized tools and skills to track the problems down and either fix them or work around them. Definitely worth the money.
As Juice eluded to, the other option is to start replacing parts and hope you find the right one. That gets expensive, so try everything else first.
Keep us updated. I'd like to know how things work out.
Ty
I'm wondering if maybe one of the bundles had a short and was partially grounding out on the engine block or somewhere else. Continuing with this logic, then when you moved the wire bundle you could have moved the short away from where it was grounding out. Now, the wire bundle has settled near a place where the short is grounding out again. Just a thought.
Out of curiosity, has the OB ever been in an accident or been flooded (even before you owned it)?
DIAGNOSIS OF VALVE LIFTER NOISE
Just as there are numerous causes of lifter noise, the exact nature of the noise can also indicate the possible cause.
1. Noisy when engine is first started, but quiet after running a few minutes.
This condition is entirely normal and will cause no harm. When an engine is shut down, some of the lifters will be left holding valves open against the valve spring pressure. This slowly forces the oil out of these particular lifters, so that they can become nearly empty. When the engine is then started, the empty lifters will be noisy until they are pumped full of oil. This requires from a few seconds to a few minutes in colder weather. Although the empty lifters will clatter quite a bit until they become filled with oil, this will cause no harm to the engine. (END QUOTE)
My question:
While everyone seems to agree that Subaru H4 engines are 'tappy', I am still curious as to why they seem to be more so than the Nissan/Toyota/Honda/Ford products that I have owned. Silly question, but does laying a lifter on its side increase the rate of oil loss, and slow the rate of recovery (pump-up)??
Steve
That Quaker State quote sounds plausible to me.
There may be something to lifters lying on their sides that contributes to their noise - but then again, it may be just a combination of the lifter design. I've had a number of Corvairs (also H6 engine configuration) that all had a bit of valve clatter on startup. In fact, it was just another of the car's quirks that had to be endured. One car in particular had one valve that was prone to noise, but always quieted down after a couple of minutes.
Do the Volkswagon air cooled engines also have this trait? How about Porsches? Anyone know?
A funny story, well funny now... I gave that last Corvair to my nephew, with the usual instructions for care and maintenance necessary for an older car. But one morning he calls me in a panic saying that the engine is sounding really really bad, it's noisy, and he's called a tow truck. Would I please meet him at his house to look over the car? So I go over and meet him, unload the car from the flatbed and pay off the tow. He's really concerned, but I just waited until the tow truck drove off, not wanting to embarrass the poor lad, and started up the Corvair. Sure enough, it sounded like every lifter leaked down over night (who knows why?). After a couple of minutes idling they all quieted down, except for the one which took a couple minutes longer. I explained to him again the facts of leaking lifters, and he learned a valuable lesson.
I also had a Toyota Cressida with a beautiful inline 6 that sounded like a diesel truck on startup, but then smoothed to silkiness after a few minutes.
But other cars I have owned have never exibited the trait. A Toyota Supra, with essentially the same design inline 6 as the Cressida, never had any valve clatter.
My opinion is that some lifters are marginal, might even be defective, and thus some individual cars are susceptible to valve clatter on startup. But if it goes away quickly after starting, I would rather just leave it alone than risk having the engine opened up to replace the lifters. Of course, if it was a constant clatter that never quieted, then I would have it fixed.
Steve (ffsteve)
-mike
I recall a view of a Jaguar head (not mine) many years ago that would appear to have had rocker arms riding directly on the cam and the valve stems ("tappets"?). The adjustment was "solid", in that there were no hydraulic lifters as I am certain (from sad first hand experience) are in the Corvair engine, but rather the adjustment was accomplished through the use of shims.
I have never opened up an overhead cam engine myself, is there really a form of lifter present? Subaru? Other models?
I stated rather confidently above that this was the cause of my Toyota showing valve clatter in the mornings. But now I'm not sure.
Uncertain Steve
Here are some great articles that may help:
http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/dohc/index.html
http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/sohc/index.html
Ken
The old Subaru motor was the EA82, it was a 2 valve per cylinder, overhead valve (pushrod) 1.8L. It served for a long time. Around 1990, the EJ series debuted at 1.8L and 2.2L with SOHC and 4 valves per cylinder. The 2.2L was only available in the Legacy for the first few years as this was Subaru's rallycar, while the Impreza debuted in 1993 with 1.8L in North America.
This engine used single overhead camshafts--two total because of the horizontally opposed layout--and used roller-tipped rocker arms to act on the cams and valves. One rocker arm per intake valve, one rocker arm per pair of intake valves. (Look at the Cobb Tuning images-- see the forked rockers, that's exhaust.) Early engines used only 1 exhaust port but sometime in the mid-late 90s they switched to a more efficient 2 port exhaust.
In 1996 the 2.5L engine debuted to power the Outback. It used dual overhead camshafts with hydraulic lifters for one model year. In 1997 they switched to solid lifters with shims under the valve bucket.
In 1999 the Phase II engines meant several things, but for the SOHC cylinder heads both 2.2L and 2.5L it meant revised ports and narrower valve angles. Narrow valve angles = smaller combustion chamber for a given valve area which = more efficiency. They still used the roller-tipped rockers and still rockers for each intake valve and each pair of exhaust valves.
I'd post more but the wife unit says it's time for lunch... Gotta run!
-Colin
Ken
anyway Steve... no, there are no lifters in any SOHC subaru. they all have rockers that ride directly on the cams and valve retainers.
-Colin
-mike
I understand my new Honda 3.5l V6 uses hydraulic in conjunction with VVT, but again, I do not know for sure.
So that brings me to the '02 Outback. Back in September when I asked, I was told that there were no adjustments required. That lead to my assumption of hydraulic. I guess false logic on my part? So if true, we have a non-adjustable, purely mechanical system????? Help me here - something just does not make sense....
It is the "assumption part" that is constantly getting me in trouble!!!!!!!!!!!
Steve
-Brian
Walt
But anyway Steve, for the DOHC subarus that did have hydraulic lifters, they used a nifty little hydraulic lash adjuster. Unless (until, honestly) a lifter goes flat they are zero maintenance.
-Colin
I began noticing the hint of burning oil from the engine about a month ago. Seems to be originating on the passenger side. It's now become progressively worse, and little patches of oil can be found on the ground under the car.
It's going to the mechanic this week, but I've only had the car since October.
Anyone having this same problem? If so, do you know what's causing it, and what should I expect to pay in getting it repaired? Is there a discussion thread somewhere about this?
Thanks.
On a 356 4cam motor ($1200 tune up, rebuilding costs $10k) four cams, 8 spark plugs, 2 distributors, 16 valves (i think) still manual valve lash - but 10,000 RPM RED LINE (arghh arghh)
I hate crawling under my V-dubs to do valves! especially since I got one of dem subah-ruus.
steve-v
Unfortunately, the speedometer unit was not covered under the 5yr powertrain warranty so it cost us $300.00 Canadian inc. all the diagnostics and taxes installation etc. has anyone heard of this speedometer unit going at 89,000KM's?
On another note, our Forester is a 5 speed and I haven't driven it much lately but the last time I did I found the clutch to be very heavy to push down to the floor. I lubricated the spring on the pedal to no avail. Could this be a sign of wear or is there some other place that needs lubricating.
Thanks.
-mike
-mike
***What's that black cover on the front of the engine again? Timing cover? :-)
Sounds like yours may have been leaking for a while.
Tup - I thought the DOJ leak only affected Foresters.
-Dennis
$188 is next to nothing considering the amount of work that would be, though.
-juice
Just like the ECU isn't considered part of the powertrain, I'd assume the electronic speedo sender is not part of the powetrain (at least the warranty part)
-mike
-Colin
Brian
Thanks for all the info on lifter design on overhead cam engines. Kens, I haven't the time to view your links right now, will save that pleasure for later (when not at work).
Thanks all,
Steve