Periodic Maintenance
I know absolutely nothing about cars. Our dealer says that we should bring our car in for a tune-up (more than just an oil change) every 7500 miles, and a major tune-up after 30000 miles. The 30000 mile check-up includes changing all the fluids, checking everything, rotating the tires, etc. It costs around $350. Are they ripping us off? Do we really need all this maintenance? I want to keep my car in great shape, but I don't want to waste money on unnecessary check ups. I get the oil changed every 4000 miles, and so far, have taken the car in for its 7500 mile tune-ups. My 30k is coming up soon.
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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Accord
Disconnect the negative battery cable. If so equipped, disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS).
Remove the floor console and the front console panel.
Remove the ashtray and ashtray holder.
Remove the two screws holding the radio at the rear of the unit.
Carefully push the unit out the front of the dash. When access is gained, disconnect the multi-pin connector and the antenna cable from the unit. Remove the unit.
Reinstall in the reverse order. Take great care not to damage the dash trim and instrument visor. Make certain the connectors are firmly and squarely installed. If applicable, be sure to enable the SRS.
I just brought my 2000 Honda Accord EXV6 in for its 30k maintenance and I was told it was going to be $300.
The dealer also just called me and told me that my rear brake pads have less than 2mm left on them. To replace the pads, redo the rotors will be an additional $150.
The car has 32k miles on it. Am I getting ripped off here.
New air filter is going in.
You should change the transmission fluid (about $100)....
Rear pads....turning down the rotors should only cost about 10 to 20 dollars. It should cost less than $100 to do the rear brakes.
Yeah find somebody other than a dealer to do non warranty work or do it yourself. Changing ATF is really easy on most cars. Just use the right one. I can change brake pads on my accord in less than 30 minutes.
Be careful out there-not all dealers are crooks but some are.
Car has 135K.
I personally prefer turning or replacing my rotors, just to get a nice flat surface on the rotors for the pads to bed properly.
It costs me more money in the long run....but that's what floats my boat.
The oil...try Max Life. The STP is just a viscosity enhancer, which makes the oil really thick, not quite ideal for cold starting conditions. I'd check the exhaust to see if there's any blue smoke coming out.
Coolant....I always do a water flush and fill.
ATF: drop the pan and go the whole nine yards.
Never bring a car in for a 30,000 etc maintenance look in the manual and only ask for what requires replacement. the inspection items are a rip off and by not having them inspected does not void your warranty. Do only the required replacement items.
The standard oil treatment (blue bottle) is basically a viscosity index improver
The 4 cylinder oil treatment (red bottle) is that and contains the anti-wear additives (as you mentioned)
Whether it's trustworthy source....I don't know
Thanks.
Seriously, dealers are more conservative and want to maintain your vehicle well for you. The Manufacturers are interested in cutting costs since costs of maintenence are now routinely published and compared.
It's a tough balance.
call 1-900-gimme-mo today!
any pointers on how to properly do it? thanks a lot.
CRC makes a specific Throttle body cleaner.
If the ingredients on the cans of STP or Wallmarts alternate does not list the percentage of zddp write to the manufacturer and ask for a MSDS sheet this sheet usually lists all the ingredients over .25% unless its a trade secret.
if you're talking about Sleepy Joe's Creepy Crud, however, not being able to find the MSDS should tell you something all by itself.
now, if they were all availiable in one central location like www.whatsinthisstuff.nonexistent, that would be really nice.
first: can a do it yourself person who chages oil and filters handle changing hoses and belts with normal gargage tools or is this somthing a garage should handle?.
Second: if i was to change the hoses. How do you access the bottom hose comming off the radiator? it seems to be behind the plastic guard under the bumper.
Third: are the belts easy to change? is there a tension spring or is it held tight by losening some screws? easy or hard job?
Any help and thoughts would be appreciated thanks
that said... provided you can get access to the clamps, pulleys, and tensioner involved in a particular car, it ain't brain surgery.
I just discovered, thinking ahead to possible breakdown causes as I tow a load to a vacation in east bloody noplace, that I have a little issue if my serpentine belt snaps or gets flipped. no problem getting a belt here, so I have one in back.
the issue is that my 5.0L / 321 mill in my 2K exploder has a tensioner that is really inaccessable due to the oversized alternator and radiator of the tow package. and I can't see anything to grab onto to pull the thing up... excuse me, get underneath the car and PUSH away... except the pulley bolt on the dern thing. can't pry, it is next to the sender "gear" and the crank position sensor. hose those up, you are walking, no doubt. good thing the belt is in great shape, but you never know 60 miles from the nearest dealer....
there is always one hose end someplace, I find, that is the billy devil to get a screwdriver or clamp tool (vise-grip is my version) onto. and with the tighter clearances, you have to be sure you get the hose alignment marks right. cheap hoses don't have any, which makes that more difficult.
look over what you got, and try to reach everything you will have to fiddle with, before you decide to hit the parts store.
You might just call a quick lube place and ask if they charge extra for the 5-20 change. I'm sure they don't. Then tell the dealer of your findings.
Just a thought.
New for model year 2001: Ford and Honda specify 5W-20 motor oil for ALL cars and light trucks.
Ford and Honda disguise the real reason by telling customers it is better for their vehicle. DON'T BELIEVE IT! Ford even went as far as to print "Use 5W-20 oil only" in bright yellow on the oil filler cap.
They are NOT looking out for the customers best interest. They are looking out for their best interest which ultimately results in more billions of dollars profit for them while all you end up with is less protection for your engine and an engine which will wearout sooner. Read on to learn the TRUTH behind 5W-20 and beware because more OEM's will be doing the same thing in the years to come.
Question: My owners manual specifies 5W-20 oil. Do I really need to use 5W-20 oil and why did my 2000 model year vehicle require a 5W-30 oil, while the exact same engine in my 2001 and 2002 requires a 5W-20 oil?
Answer: Absolutely Not! You DO NOT need to use a 5W-20 oil. Do not let your dealer scare you by telling you that you have to use it for your warranty. That is one of the biggest lies and deceptions that dealerships use to scare customers. Once you know the facts and the law you will be much better informed to protect your rights and use what is really best for your engine.
The ONLY reason 5W-20 was specified for your engine is to increase the CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) reported to the Federal Government. CAFE is the combined average fuel economy of all of a vehicle manufacturers product line. Minimum CAFE levels are specified by the Federal Government. In order for a vehicle manufacturer to continue selling profitable large trucks and SUV's, which typically have poor fuel mileage ratings, as compared to smaller cars, and still meet mandated CAFE requirements, they must also sell enough of the smaller cars which have much better fuel economy ratings to offset the poor fuel economy ratings of the larger vehicles. For model year 2001, the change to a 5W-20 oil will allow Ford and Honda's overall CAFE to increase by a very small amount, typically in the tenths of a mile per gallon range. 5W-20 oil is a lighter viscosity than a 5W-30 oil and therefore has less internal engine frictional losses, or less drag on the crankshaft, pistons and valvetrain, which in turn promotes increased fuel economy. This increased fuel economy is virtually undetectable to the average motorist without the use of specialized engine monitoring and testing equipment under strictly controlled test track driving when compared to a 5W-30, 10W-30 or a 0W-30 viscosity motor oil.
Therefore, 5W-20 has absolutely no benefit to you, the customer, other than to make you have to buy their expensive Honda or Motorcraft oil (which neither Honda or Ford actually manufacturers an oil; they simply source it to the low bidder) and get an oil which provides less protection for your engine!
Question: What are the negative aspects of using a 5W-20 motor oil?
Answer: There are many negative aspects, the most important is that 5W-20 has less film and shear strength than a 5W-30, 10W-30 or a 0W-30 motor oil. This can lead to increased and accelerated engine wear under today's demanding heat and high stress engine operating conditions. In our analysis, there is a limit to how light of a viscosity an engine oil can go, as a light viscosity oil such as 5W-20 offers less protection for your engine. What's going to be next 5W-10? If you operate under severe service conditions such as towing trailers, hauling heavy loads, stop and go driving in hot weather or sustained high speeds on the highway then you are even in a worse predicament. You would be much better off using either a 5W-30, 10W-30 or a 0W-30 motor oil.
Question: Could using a 5W-30, 10W-30, 0W-30 or even a 10W-40 or 20W-50, oil in my vehicle which specifies a 5W-20 oil void my new car warranty?
Answer: ABSOLUTELY NOT! Vehicle manufacturers only recommend using motor oils meeting certain viscosity grades and American Petroleum Institute service requirements. Whether a motor oil is a 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 0W-30, 10W-40 or 20W-50 (for racing and high performance applications in, for example, a Cobra R Mustang) or even a synthetic vs. a petroleum based oil will not affect warranty coverage. The manufacturer is required by Federal Law to cover all equipment failures it would normally cover as long as the oil meets API service requirements and specifications and was not the cause of failure. In addition, the Federally mandated Magnuson - Moss Act states that a manufacturer may not require a specific brand or type of aftermarket product unless it is provided free of charge. If your dealership continues to tell you that you must use 5W-20 motor oil and or/ a specific brand of 5W-20 motor oil, then ask them to put it in writing. Their position is inaccurate, and, in fact violates existing law.
Additionally, if there is ever a question of whether or not a particular motor oil was the cause of an engine failure make sure to get a sample of the used oil in a clean bottle, typically 6 oz. minimum. The oil can then be sent to two independent testing labs for analysis. This is standard procedure for most commercial vehicles, trucking, construction/excavation and fleet companies and there are numerous certified test labs all over the country. Remember, a knowledgeable and informed consumer is your best defense against being taken advantage of by a car dealership service center.
What in the WORLD makes you think they won't deny an individual's warranty claim? They will, they have and they will continue. Please - ask me how I know!
The law is great for rattling cages, but when you are forced to use it, time stands still.
As a service manager, I've seen several warranty claims denied for incorrect oil usage. I'm certainly not saying it should have happened, just that it did.
I don't care if you go to Jiffy Lube, the dealer, Uncle Fred or if you buy your oil and filter at Wal-Mart and do it in your driveway, save your invoice! If you buy your own, write the date and mileage on the receipt - it's that easy.
All a person has to prove is that a level of maintenance was done that meets the manufacturer's requirements.
I know many people do their own LOFs, but "I do my own LOFs and don't keep receipts" is exactly what a manufacturer rep or extended warranty adjuster wants to hear. That's their "out" and their fully within their rights to deny the claim if you can't PROVE you've done maintenance.
You can call Uncle Fred in an arbitration, but without an invoice, his testimony is worthless. At that point, you've already lost use of your car for a long time anyway.