On the side of the highway maybe. Some of those 50s & 60s imports were really awful, humble, nasty little cars.
But the Citroen, that was a piece. Very innovative car, often voted by experts as one of the most important cars of the century.
I think what really made the 70s Volvos image as grandma's car was the soft camshafts. These cars just performed worse and worse as the cam lobes wore off. And Volvo didn't correct the problem ever, until the new B21 engine.
Actually the engine was fairly peppy but when I bought it, it had a rod right through the case. I was going to fit the engine from a Sunbeam Alpine (same block) but once I figured out what a Hillman Minx is worth (a bit less than zero) I decided to play with something else.
Some of the 50s and 60s British sedans were not so much crude as very cheaply made.
The latest issue of R&T (nice cartoon by the way) mentions the '72 144S. They do a look back to 15 and 30 years ago, and in the 1972 issue was a comparison test of imported sedans (notably all european in those days).
Anyway, I think the Volvo finished last. Said is was antiquated, or something like that, but the promised changes for 1973 were supposed to (hopefully) improve things.
Of sourse, the winner was an Audi 100 (if I got the model right). Hopefully not too many people went out and bought one becasue of htis test!
I had one of those, too. Actually the Audi 100LS was a very nice driving car. Not very reliable, but it was comfortable, well built and handled great for a 70s sedan.
I saw, amazingly, a '76 264 sedan for sale near my college yesterday. It was a pretty rare sight, considering how bad of a car it was when it was new. An independent shop that works on Swedish cars was offering it for $600; it had 193k miles, and the body and interior looked pretty rough. I can't imagine what the engine would be like, though.
As for the "limited-edition" Volvo 780 they made for a while in the late '80s, the last-year cars ('91) ask some ridiculous prices for them, especially if they're low mileage. Why pay over $10k for a nice, warmed-over 740 with an Italian-designed interior? Personally, I find 780s to be less than specatacular.
I haven't seen the car around for a while. He wanted to put a 5.0 in his 122 Wagon but it wouldn't fit, supposedly. He ended up putting the drivetrain from an automatic 740 Turbo in there, warmed up to about 200 hp. The last time I asked him about it his wife was in earshot, and from her reaction I'm guessing there were some problems with the project...
Well, a 4-cylinder turbo transplant makes some sense at least, although he has taken a potentially desirable and valuable car, a 122 wagon, and rendered it practially worthless.
So unless he gets gobs of enjoyment for his efforts, this may not have been a good project. The concept is good, from the standpoint of improving the 122s lackluster performance.
But still, better to bastardize a virtually worthless 70s sedan, not a 60s wagon, seems to me. There are people who will pay big bucks for a very clean, straight 122 wagon but a 70s sedan you'd be lucky to get $1200 for it.
Very trick paint job, custom wheels, tinted windows, decals advertising his bike shop and of course the obligatory roof rack, usually with 1 or 2 very expensive bikes. Actually looks very cool, and since it is (or was, anyway) his daily driver I can't blame him for wanting to make it a little more driveable. Lately I see him biking to work, so I'm not sure what's up with the Volvo. I'll see if I can post a picture sometime.
I've been spending beaucoup time lately doing the music thing (anybody want to trade big band charts?).
V8 Volvos.....coupla thoughts...
It's a pity the 850 is FWD, I think it's the prettiest of the lot.
The Volvo aftermarket seems pretty pitiful...IPD catalogs have just a ridiculously small line of parts.
After watching a friend of mine go through the smog cha-cha with a V8 Landcruiser, I think I'd rather be dipped in sh** than deal with the smog guys in CA with late model swaps.
I can't see bothering with a V8 7xx or 2xx Volvo unless it was seriously quick. I'll bet a '89-'93 Mustang 5.0 runs and handles better in the Mustang than in the Volvo. Now, something like a ZL1 Volvo seems reasonable (assuming more money than sense) but would end up using the Volvo as a tub to hang your parts on. Umpteen dollars and a 'friendly' smog guys required (how much is 'hot piping' these days?).
They don't mind if you "upgrade" (newer, cleaner engine) but they don't let you "downgrade".
The problem with smog laws is not that they are punitive or bad per se (actually a good thing overall) but that they end up punishing just a few 20+-year-old cars, when there aren't enough 20+-year-old cars on the road to make an impact--even if they were all cleaned up to 2003 standards.
Volvo isn't an "aftermarket" type of car, which is too bad, as this would have kept more of them on the road. When a Volvo gets old and shabby, you junk it, as restoration costs are too prohibitive vis a vis the value of the car. Even a P1800 costs a bundle to fix up, more than they are worth. With a same year MGB, for instance, you have a tremendous aftermarket for inexpensive parts, more parts cars, and a higher value when the restoration is done.
From what I've seen (admittedly, not an exhaustive survey) the trick is defining 'upgrade'. Since a batch of car subsystems are considered smog equipment (gas tanks for one, I believe) the whole exercise can involve many trips to the referee depending on his mood.
If you install superior or more modern smog equipment you'll be fine but yes, you probably will have to see the referee. There can be no logical argument against upgrading the smog equipment on an old car, but there can be a case for inspecting that it is done right and is working.
Id' certainly huddle with SmogWorld before I built my dream car, if it was in California and if it was 1973 or newer.
I'm sure the 327 is in the back SEAT, so maybe not as lethal as the stock one. A stock '61 Corvair is a scary car to drive. I saw one flip right in front of me, so I'm a believer!
For the first time in a long time, I saw a Volvo 164 today; looked like it had to be a '71 or '72. Man, what a crude-looking car (for a Volvo, that is)! I tell you, the Volvo sedans/wagons of the '70s don't even come close to the sleek ones of today.
I knew about the Latin meaning, but I did not know that Volvo had previously manufactured ball bearings! That explains a few things.
By the way, I've already heard some jokes cracked about the questionable wisdom of selling an SUV under a brand whose name means "I Roll". Fortunately, it looks like the XC90 has been designed such that it won't live up to the name.
Ah, but do you know where the Volvo logo comes from?
I don't think Volvo ever made ball bearings, but you are right there is a connection, as one of the founding fathers, Assar Gabrielsson, worked for the SKF ball-bearing company, which I think was in or around Paris. This would be mid 1920s.
The first Volvos were modeled after American cars of the time, and in fact always had more of an American look and feel than most other "foreign cars". They were rugged, large inside, rather utilitarian, and a bit clumsy, which is very Volvo up until the 1990s.
I'm not sure about the logo. Can you enlighten me? Mr. Gabrielsson worked for SKF (which by the way stands for Swedish Ball brearing Factory), but started his own company (Volvo) later.
The Volvo logo comes from (is derived from) the standard geological map symbol for Iron. So the story goes.
I guess Gabrielsson was working "overseas" for SKF then. Does that make sense? So SKF proceeded Volvo and is not connected with it. That's my understanding anyway.
My fifth gear (the button on the gearshift), has gradually begun to fail. ABout two months ago, the overdrive refused to engage when the button was clicked, but would eventually engage if given a second or third chance. Last week, it refused to acknowledge it was even being clicked- I have no more fifth gear. Themechanic suggested the wires in the gearshift, but I've checked and they seem to be in good shape. My next theory is the relay, but I don't know where it is. ANy suggestions? It's an 84 240 wagon. Thanks. Robert
i would think the most likely cause of the difficulty might be where the wires connect to the actual overdrive solenoid in the tranmission case, as these are exposed to the elements. The overdrive relay is probably well-protected inside the car or engine compartment.
If I remember correctly, OD relay failures on the M46 transmission are pretty common. I'd check at http://www.brickboard.com for for info if you haven't done so already.
I like to start a diagnosis either with the end of the system first, then work backwards, or the beginning of the system, and then work to the end.
So, end first would be a) solenoid, b) wires to solenoid c) relay, gearshift switch..
Or if you wish you can start from the front of the system a) switch, b) relay, c) wires to solenoid, d) solenoid.
But don't start in the middle somewhere, with the relay. This isn't good diagnostic procedure and can trip you up. Just because you don't have current coming out of the relay doesn't mean it's bad.
"Just because you don't have current coming out of the relay doesn't mean it's bad."
True, but if under those circumstances you can confirm current is going into the relay...and that shouldn't be hard to do. And it's not like relays are foolproof; I lost count of how many I changed during my time working on aircraft. In my experience, it was rarely the devices/wires going in and out of relays, but the relays themselves. (And yes, I know a military aircraft is a completely different thing that an old Volvo. A relay, however, is pretty much a relay anywhere you go. As well, I do specifically remember reading about high relay failure rates on the M46 transmission. I can't speak from personal experience, though, as my Volvo is equipped with the M47, which is set up like a conventional five speed.)
Yep, that's why I suggested starting at the front of the system, so you know current is going into the relay. If you just measure output from the relay, you still don't have the answer.
Comments
But the Citroen, that was a piece. Very innovative car, often voted by experts as one of the most important cars of the century.
I think what really made the 70s Volvos image as grandma's car was the soft camshafts. These cars just performed worse and worse as the cam lobes wore off. And Volvo didn't correct the problem ever, until the new B21 engine.
Actually the engine was fairly peppy but when I bought it, it had a rod right through the case. I was going to fit the engine from a Sunbeam Alpine (same block) but once I figured out what a Hillman Minx is worth (a bit less than zero) I decided to play with something else.
Some of the 50s and 60s British sedans were not so much crude as very cheaply made.
Anyway, I think the Volvo finished last. Said is was antiquated, or something like that, but the promised changes for 1973 were supposed to (hopefully) improve things.
Of sourse, the winner was an Audi 100 (if I got the model right). Hopefully not too many people went out and bought one becasue of htis test!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Poor thing, you'd think with 193K they'd put it to sleep before it bites someone.
-Jason
So unless he gets gobs of enjoyment for his efforts, this may not have been a good project. The concept is good, from the standpoint of improving the 122s lackluster performance.
But still, better to bastardize a virtually worthless 70s sedan, not a 60s wagon, seems to me. There are people who will pay big bucks for a very clean, straight 122 wagon but a 70s sedan you'd be lucky to get $1200 for it.
-Jason
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
V8 Volvos.....coupla thoughts...
It's a pity the 850 is FWD, I think it's the prettiest of the lot.
The Volvo aftermarket seems pretty pitiful...IPD catalogs have just a ridiculously small line of parts.
After watching a friend of mine go through the smog cha-cha with a V8 Landcruiser, I think I'd rather be dipped in sh** than deal with the smog guys in CA with late model swaps.
I can't see bothering with a V8 7xx or 2xx Volvo unless it was seriously quick. I'll bet a '89-'93 Mustang 5.0 runs and handles better in the Mustang than in the Volvo. Now, something like a ZL1 Volvo seems reasonable (assuming more money than sense) but would end up using the Volvo as a tub to hang your parts on. Umpteen dollars and a 'friendly' smog guys required (how much is 'hot piping' these days?).
These engine swaps can be really involved if the there's a requirement for smog inspections in your area.
The problem with smog laws is not that they are punitive or bad per se (actually a good thing overall) but that they end up punishing just a few 20+-year-old cars, when there aren't enough 20+-year-old cars on the road to make an impact--even if they were all cleaned up to 2003 standards.
Volvo isn't an "aftermarket" type of car, which is too bad, as this would have kept more of them on the road. When a Volvo gets old and shabby, you junk it, as restoration costs are too prohibitive vis a vis the value of the car. Even a P1800 costs a bundle to fix up, more than they are worth. With a same year MGB, for instance, you have a tremendous aftermarket for inexpensive parts, more parts cars, and a higher value when the restoration is done.
Id' certainly huddle with SmogWorld before I built my dream car, if it was in California and if it was 1973 or newer.
I'd just stare at it and ask WHY??
However, I have driven IPD equipped cars with additional massaging and they can actually make an old Volvo fun to drive.
You know, some car projects are really about guys in a garage having had one too many beers.
But I think those projects are cool, just because they don't make sense.
Hahaha....whatever, you only live once.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I knew about the Latin meaning, but I did not know that Volvo had previously manufactured ball bearings! That explains a few things.
By the way, I've already heard some jokes cracked about the questionable wisdom of selling an SUV under a brand whose name means "I Roll". Fortunately, it looks like the XC90 has been designed such that it won't live up to the name.
-Andrew L
I never thought of teh SUV and "I roll" thing. That's funny
I don't think Volvo ever made ball bearings, but you are right there is a connection, as one of the founding fathers, Assar Gabrielsson, worked for the SKF ball-bearing company, which I think was in or around Paris. This would be mid 1920s.
The first Volvos were modeled after American cars of the time, and in fact always had more of an American look and feel than most other "foreign cars". They were rugged, large inside, rather utilitarian, and a bit clumsy, which is very Volvo up until the 1990s.
I guess Gabrielsson was working "overseas" for SKF then. Does that make sense? So SKF proceeded Volvo and is not connected with it. That's my understanding anyway.
"So SKF proceeded Volvo and is not connected with it. That's my understanding anyway."
-Mine too.
Click on Bilder
click on the upper right picture in the bottom group.
My fifth gear (the button on the gearshift), has gradually begun to fail. ABout two months ago, the overdrive refused to engage when the button was clicked, but would eventually engage if given a second or third chance. Last week, it refused to acknowledge it was even being clicked- I have no more fifth gear. Themechanic suggested the wires in the gearshift, but I've checked and they seem to be in good shape. My next theory is the relay, but I don't know where it is. ANy suggestions? It's an 84 240 wagon. Thanks.
Robert
So, end first would be a) solenoid, b) wires to solenoid c) relay, gearshift switch..
Or if you wish you can start from the front of the system a) switch, b) relay, c) wires to solenoid, d) solenoid.
But don't start in the middle somewhere, with the relay. This isn't good diagnostic procedure and can trip you up. Just because you don't have current coming out of the relay doesn't mean it's bad.
True, but if under those circumstances you can confirm current is going into the relay...and that shouldn't be hard to do. And it's not like relays are foolproof; I lost count of how many I changed during my time working on aircraft. In my experience, it was rarely the devices/wires going in and out of relays, but the relays themselves.
(And yes, I know a military aircraft is a completely different thing that an old Volvo. A relay, however, is pretty much a relay anywhere you go. As well, I do specifically remember reading about high relay failure rates on the M46 transmission. I can't speak from personal experience, though, as my Volvo is equipped with the M47, which is set up like a conventional five speed.)
Maybe he'll report back and let us know.