Are you an EV owner who has received a shockingly high quote for repairs? A reporter would like to speak with you; please reach out to [email protected] by Friday, May 26 for more details.
1970's & '80s Volvos
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
A 122 wagon wouldn't be a bad car to tinker with. I'd suggest an IPD cam to get rid of the junk stock camshaft, a B20E head, rebuilt engine with Mahle pistons and Vandervel bearings, SU carbs, electronic ignition, American alternator with revised mounting system (stock Volvo generator mount is BAD), steel timing gears, overdrive transmission, bilstein shocks, thicker swaybar and a/c from a Japanese car. Now wouldn't that be a nice ride!
If you use a B20E head, you'd better also bore the stock B18 block to a B20.
Yes, boring to 2 liters would be great.
People compensate by tightening the swing arm and this create excessive tension, which then wipes out the water pumps, another problem on the B18s.
Volvo did something similar back in 1993, sending the last 1600 240s built from about Feb. to April over to the States as "240 Classics." These Volvos had special alloy wheels, body-colored trim and mirrors, wood trim, and a special dashboard plaque that told you what number of 1600 your car was, all too reminiscent of those so-called '94 Alfa Spiders. What bugs me is that these 240 Classics are being sold for ridiculously high prices, whether they're on Ebay or not. And I know that my own '93 Volvo (not a 240, but an 850) will bring about $5500 tops if I tried to sell it; people claim that you can get about $9000 for a clean 240 Classic. Any comments and/or reflections on this Volvo phenomenon?
If you pay $4,000 over book for a car with some decals and a few odd trim pieces, then it's YOUR turn to hype the car and get someone to pay $4,000 over book so you can break even. But the book value stays the same no matter if a few people over-pay.
Common sense dictates that you cannot intrinsically increase a car's value with $100 worth of add-ons. Especially when the car was not exactly everyone's "dream machine" to begin with.
At least the Bertone models had a different roof line, but here again it was just a tarted-up old Volvo, and a not very pretty one at that.
Now on the other hand there was the Volvo 123GT, which IS worth more because the GT equipment is significant and really worth having, like overdrive, special dash, and I believe other mods which I forget at the moment. So that car is worth double a run of the mill 122.
I saw a 121 with a B20E complete with the FI and all in Sweden not too long ago.
personally, i miss it so much. if i could get a 93 sedan or wagon, in good shape, i would love it. they had "style" that nothing today has. i know they aren't for everyone, but i can still smell the interior of that car. crank sunroof, no tach, wobbly speedo, huge steering wheel, four round headlights up front. beautiful!
Stay away from KYB and cheap American stuff.
If you have 100K on original shocks, you definitely need them. Most shocks are tired on any car at 80K.
this amazon where the fastest of its time, and i can tell you that the fastest janne went in this car was 185km/h in third gear... the acelerator pedal got stuck under high speed tests outside stockholm and the nitrous system engaged... the engine you refer to was a b20 with nos and a weber dcoe that was mounted before the turbo,this was combined with water injection in later years the kugel fisher mekano injection system was mounted... do not know if there was made a measurement of power after this...
Can anyone provide additional information on this subject?
Volvo used to offer an intercooler upgrade kit for around $700. I have checked with the local Volvo parts dealer and that kit is no longer available. The kit included such things as the intercooler, all the piping, wastegate, fuel pump, etc.
I have discussed with others that have simply added the intercooler and proper "plumbing" and then re-adjusted the existing wastegate. They didn't do anything with the fuel distribution.
I would like to intercool my car without replacing too many components, but I don't want to damage the engine either.
Any info is greatly appreciated!
You should probably cut and paste this question into our "Technical Questions" topic on the Maintenance & Repair Board. This topic is more about discussing the history, models, etc. of "classic" old Volvos--so it's not about repairs.
The Tech Questions topic has a lot more gearheads in it and much more activity. Here's your link:
This isn't really a technical board for Volvos. I would suggest that you contact IPD and see if they can advise you.
good luck with your project!
If it's external, those parts will have to be on the crankshaft if you are balancing the engine dynamically.
Of course unless you are racing, all this may not matter so much...
If the switch isn't there, then it's under the brake pedal...a little push button thing. Sorry I'm not sure but I sometimes get my old Volvos mixed up. I think it's a hydaulic switch on the master cylinder though, under the hood, just in front of the steering wheel area.
But I'd be very leery of buying one that old now, unless you obtain a long, well-documented maintenance history and have the car checked out by a knowledgeable mechanic. These cars are notorious for rust, especially right behind the rear wheels, and I've no doubt you'll find oil leaks if the car is put on a lift. Plus the suspension bushings front and rear are likely to be shot, unless they were part of the recent suspension work. Coolant leakage from the water pump gasket is a chronic problem, and exhaust systems seem to have a short life also, aft of the catalytic converter. Another problem is that the front seat cushion supports (wire and a wicker-like material) deteriorate over time so it's like sitting in a tub.
Gas mileage is pretty awful by today's standards for a slow 4-cylinder: 20 mpg in the city if you're not stuck in heavy traffic and no better than the upper 20s on the highway (manual tranny).
I'd say you shouldn't pay more than about $1500 tops.
Definitely the exhaust systems are prone to failure, the rear swing arm suspension bushings and the usual pieces of interior falling off everywhere.
Old Volvos are sturdy cars but their interior build quality and paintwork is really bad. It's hard to keep these cars from looking like piles of junk--you have to work at it.The Volvo leather is particularly low grade.
So if you find a clean one inside and out, that's worth paying extra for (to a point).
I also agree, 18-22 mpg, perhaps a little better on the highway with overdrive transmission option.
Certainly I'd choose an old Volvo 240 over the equivalent year BMW or Benz or Sasab in terms of reliability and maintenance. And they are comfortable and roomy besides.
Problem is finding one that isn't all clapped out with too many miles on it.
But I was defining boring as very much tied to the tangible aspects of the car...basically a noisy, body-leaning, brick-shaped, sluggish old box. If we define "excitement" in a car as something to do with speed, precision, fabulous noises, "sexy" lines, tire-burning power, eliciting envy, etc.---well the poor Volvo 240 strikes out on all of those.
I mean, even an ox has character, but it's not the most exciting animal to watch or ride :P .
So one can like a boring thing (no comments on marriage please).