I have an '08 Pilot EXL and yours lasted longer! My Power Steering Pump went bad at 2000 miles, needless to say it was replaced immediately, no problem.
I have a 2003 pilot lost my key and remote, today I had Honda replace them. I asked the service attendant if I could go online to purchase the key and remote he said no because the dealer is the only one that can program it - I really wanted the key & remote so I went ahead with the purchase. The cost: $35 for key, $85 for transmitter and $84 for the programming (labor) they gave me a !0% discount Total cost $193. When I came home I did some research and found a number of on-line sites that you could purchase these items. One of the sites; Car and Truck Remotes, offers a brand new 2003 Honda Pilot keyless entry remote for $50 and includes free programming instructions (can a person program it or only be done by the dealer). If this is correct I would have saved over $100 - what do you think?
Thanks for clearing up. I'm looking at an 08 Pilot vs. 08 Highlander..having a tough time deciding. Both seem to ride well, good room, and optional 3rd row if needed. Anybody that has recently gone through this and would like to share experiences would be appreciated.
Our power lock for the driver's side stopped working this summer,and then the passenger side went as well. There's a part inside the door (of our 03 Pilot) that needed replacement. Not cheap. But the keys were fine, and it made me quite frustrated to have such a problem. Never in the 13 years and 170,000 miles of my Honda Accord did I see anything like this. Then the ignition stopped working (evidently the tumblers weren't staying in line) and of course we needed a new ignition cylinder and a new key. But we had to "rekey" the ignition because otherwise the ignition key wouldn't match the door key, so we bought the new cylinder (which comes with new keys automatically that we can't use) and still needed to spend the $84 on the rekeying. We don't use the dealer, because the labor on all of this would be quite prohibitive--but the station where we go (a place we trust) deferred to the dealer's "rekey" person when it came time to set the tumblers. I figure that if this car repair shop, which does excellent work at reasonable prices, is more comfortable trusting the dealer to do the keying, I would be as well. Hope this helps; I'd say, though, that when it comes to keys, the Honda Pilot doesn't impress me....
and it made me quite frustrated to have such a problem. Never in the 13 years and 170,000 miles of my Honda Accord did I see anything like this.
If not having a problem with a 13 year old car resulted in your drawing the conclusion that a 6 year old car would never have a problem as well, you were being a bit naive. Consider yourself luck on the first go-round rather than bashing the second.
when it comes to keys, the Honda Pilot doesn't impress me....
What did this story have to do with the "impressions" of the key itself? Better question: who would expect to be impressed by a key?
Trying to save others some time, money, stress & headaches... There is an alternative to going to the dealer for a replacement rear wiper blade on the 03-08 Honda Pilot. It may first appear that the blade and arm are one piece but if you take a look, you'll see the wiper blade can be replaced and its actually quite simple. It is a special rear wiper blade though. There may be other alternatives, but the "Trico Exact Fit Rear Integral Blade" snaps right onto the special rear arm and looks like the factory original. You can find it online. Much cheaper than the dealer alternative and easier/less tedious than messing around with rubber blade refills. Comes with removal and replacement instructions too. Hope this helps.
I recently found a mouse and a bunch of dog food in my blower motor...so I took the blower apart and cleaned it out but now my blower will not change speeds. And when ever I turn on my car the blower motor turns on full blast even when my heater is off. Has anyone had any problem like this? I don't know if it is my blower motor that is malfunctioning or something else.
OK, I see how a mouse could crawl into a vehicle for warmth, but dog food? Wondering whether the mouse went there to get to the dog food or if the mouse found the dog food elsewhere and then took it in for safekeeping!
The mouse had taken the dog food into the blower compartment. I usually don't keep dog food in my garage but during a move, I had put a small bag of dog food in the garage and forgot about it.
Just minutes ago I was pulling out on my driveway and suddenly I saw the warning of a burned brake light. I said myself oh..this is easy, but guess what.. I couldn't get the light set out. It is the left side, I unscrewed the 2 screws but the light set is still attached to the car body. Of course I don't want to put more force on it because it could break.
I've not replaced a light bulb on the Pilot yet, but I can confirm that all mfgrs are making it more and more difficult to replace these bulbs. Maybe they purchase stock in the light manufacturers?! You may want to Google for some instructions on how to replace it if the Owner's Manual isn't sufficient. (Sure makes one long for the good 'ol days when you could just reach in, grab the bulb, give it a twist and out she'd pop!)
You may want to also post your question in a more appropriate forum, as it's not likely to get the same type of viewers here in the "Maintenance & Repair" forum.
My wife and I test drove an '08 Highlander and wound up purchasing the Pilot Ex-L instead (her vehicle, not mine). The Highlander was fine, but here's where we felt the Pilot excelled compared to the Highlander:
- more comfortable ride; the Toyota felt a bit stiff/rigid - Pilot felt roomier (not sure if the cargo capacity #'s would prove that out?) - better visibility out the front window (is there a bigger front window on a vehicle, besides maybe a school bus?!) - the leather seats seemed more comfortable - price (I recall the Pilot was more affordable) - my wife just loved the Pilot - end of story!
One thing that I have learned is for sure replace the rear end VTM fluid ever so often with Honda VTM fluid. About $30 a gallon from the dealer. It will completely stop any bumping and grinding from the rear that a lot of people just think is normal for a Pilot. Its easy to do yourself or go buy the fluid and take it to your local super lube.
I have a Pilot. I don't really know the History on it. But The Cruise does not work. I can usually fix anything if I can get the info on the net. My cruise does button will click to the on position but the light does not come on. It will not set from the wheel. It is completely dead. Is there a fuse? I can't find one that is marked cruies? Any other suggestions?
I have a 2004 EX-L Nav with 67,000 miles. I did the 60k mile service at 63k. Anyway, taking it in for a oil change, the dealer told me that the front and side motor mounts need to be replaced at $700 for both. I have two concerns? How did this get missed at a major service 4,000 miles ago? Also, as I have searched the forum and not found anyone with this problem, I'm even a little more curious about the diagnosis.
One other issue is that the accellerator pedal sticks. Oddly it happened right after a service about a year ago and I essentally ignored it meaning to bring it up again. Now it's a $200 fix to essentially "clean" the throttle. Still wondering how this was missed during a major service.
HELP!! Been to the dealer twice now. They appear to have no idea. Lock car with remote and within a few minutes the alarm is sounding. Reset by remote or manually (key in lock) same thing happens. Cannot lock car now. Please provide any suggestions, extremely frustrating. Thanks
Had the same thing happen to my 2007 Pilot but fortunately during warranty period. It happened on at least 4 different occasions usually at the most inconvenient times (between 3 and 5 AM). Finally, after replacing many, many parts it happened at the dealership during a visit when they had the car more than a day trying to figure out what to do next. It appears they finally were successful when they found "Rear passenger door lock knob input malfunction to multiplex. Short."They did the following: "Replace passenger fuse box; replace passenger door lock actuator; replace RH RR Door harness", This was done the first of July of 2009 and the problem has not recurred. Good luck.
Same issue here - two motor mounts (front and side) at 73,000 miles. Found my issue today when the hydrolic fluid began to leak. Never had this problem with any other automobile.
Does anyone know of a web site that you can sign up to get an email whenever a TSB is issued for your Pilot? My last six cars were purchased at a non-Honda mega-dealership and the service manager would actually proactively tell me if there was a TSB on my vehicle whenever I went in for service. My Honda dealership doesn't seem so willing.
Check and see if your horn works. I noticed that my Horn also didn't work. I opened the hood and looked at the relay box under there. The are marked on the cover. I bought the car used from a dealer. The horn relay was missing completely. I went to the dealer and got another for $9. After I installed it. the Horn worked and so did the cruise. I guess they are on the same circuit in the steering maybe. Anyway. There are several relays in there that are the same. You may be able to swap one long enough to trouble shoot it to see if that is the problem. Yours may be blown. The sure test will be if the horn does or does not work. Worth a try. Cayce
I have a '10 Pilot EX with 6k miles with a bad engine ping/knock problem. Anyone else having this problem? Dealer won't acknowledge there is an issue, no codes showing on computer.
I have a 2010 Pilot Touring. I fastened the second row shoulder belt to its special receiver -- the one for the middle passenger, and the one that comes down from the ceiling. The problem is that I can't figure out how to release this shoulder belt when it's not in use, which is 99% of the time I'm using the car. When it's attached w/out a passenger, it flaps back and forth against the rear seat, when the windows are open -- making a constant racket. I've read the owners manual and searched the internet, and can't find any instructions on how to release this belt. Any help or instructions are much appreciated. :confuse:
Something important slid into my console when I slid back the retractable cover of the center console; it was a handicapped placard like you hang on your mirror. Now we can't see it or feel it, and it must have fallen down behind. Does anyone know how to get to that space? It looks like you might be able to pull off some trim near the passenger's side feet area, but I'm afraid to pull for fear of breaking part of the plastic. Can anybody help me know how to get into that spot?
Not sure of your year, but in my 2006 Pilot the center console had to be completely disassembled to get at the "lost" item: a real pain in the you know what!
Handy with tools here, and the local dealer printed out the relevant pages from the shop manual off of their computer regarding the disassembly... took a coupla' hours but saved some $$$... won't ever make that mistake again! Stupid design and they really needed a large yellow caution label on that sliding cover to prevent this kind of occurrence.
Had the car to dealer & their response is follows: "the noise observed is not any diffrerent than the other '10 Pilots on the lot. The noise will not damage the engine and is normal operating characteristic."
On a side note the service rep told me to try higher octane gas. I tried 89 & 93 but the engine still knocks. It is less severe with th 93 octane.
I think it's important to clarify what exactly you are hearing. If, indeed, you are hearing excessive "pinging" (as opposed to some other similar engine noises) then your engine is definitely headed for disaster. Pinging is a pre-ignition condition which, when excessive, causes great stress to internal engine parts --what you hear is actually the internal engine parts rattling around.
Pinging has a distinct sound---it is iregular, generally light, and sounds very much like a chain dragging under the car.
If you are hearing a more regular, clock-like tapping, that probably isn't pinging.
I would think that actual "pinging" would throw a code immediately.
Anyway, you need to get a trained ear to listen to this noise.
The car is definitely pinging. Your description of a chain dragging is exactly what I'm hearing. Also can be described like a little bell ringing. A Honda senior tech confirmed the noise with me on a road test.
I've owned Hondas for over 10 years now. Some of them had major mechanical defects including pre-mature transmission failures and exhaust droning. The corporate response to a design defect is "normal operating characteristic of the vehicle".
I'm lucky that I can afford to trade my cars in before the 60k mechanical warranty expires. If the engine blows up it's coming out of Honda's pocket not mine. I just make sure all the paperwork is on file.
I won a Lemon Law case with my Odyssey back when I had a lot of time to waste. Now I don't have the time to fight with the Pilot.
Well okay, if this is a quick, momentarily pinging, just for an instant when you accelerate, that might be correctable by using a higher octane fuel. If it's a constant pinging as you climb hills or if it is occurring during regular driving, you are going to eventually do engine damage. That noise is your internal engine parts, as well as (in severe cases) actual flexing of the engine block. You can burn a hole right through the top of a piston with "severe" pinging.
A quick tiny "plink" is not a worry.
I would have the knock sensor checked and also engine timing.
Having an issue where my second row seat doesn't slide. It will fold no problem, but it won't slide forward.
Dealer says they can't slide it forward, therefore can't get at the bolts to pull the seat off the frame . He suggested using a sawzall to cut the seat frame from the floor mount. (And then replacing the seat frame with a new one...) :confuse: Seems a little draconian. Anyone have any other suggestions?
I have a new 2011 Honda Pilot Touring. Consumer Reports states that the Pilot has very long stopping distances. What should I expect for brake pad life on this vehicle? I know that brake life depends on driving style, but what have others experienced? Also, has Honda done any thing to improve on poor braking performance on the 2011 Pilot?
I, as many others, am used to changing oil at a specific milage. What kind of range in miles should I expect the Milage Minder to tell me to change my oil? Also, I have also been told to change the oil filter any time I change my oil. What is Honda thinking as to not changing the oil filter when I change my oil? Just curious.
Thanks for the reply. I normally change my oil at 5000 miles in my other cars. I had a Ford Explorer that I had to change the front pads about every 25,000 miles and I have a Toyota Camry that the front pads last about forever, close to 100,000 miles. Thanks again for the info. Do you have your oil changed at the dealer? I cannot imagine not changing the oil filter when you change the oil. WolfpackRon.
I am a potential Pilot buyer and trying to find out the cost of ownership down the road. Most of the car reviews conveniently ignore the maintenance costs. I always do my own oil changes and tire rotations etc. although I am not too much mechanically inclined. I will definitely stay away from any high maintenance car.
Does any one know the exact maintenance items required under 100k other than oil changes and various inspections? such as: timing belt changes, spark plugs( difficult to access on this car with transversally mounted engine I assume) brake fluid t-case fluid diff fluids transmission fluid
I'll drive under normal conditions and will not tow any thing.
Off the top of my head, I remember the timing belt needs to be replaced at 60,000 miles and the brake fluid replaced every 3 years. Spark plugs probably last for at least 100,000 miles. Just guessing. Not sure about transmission fluid. WolfpackRon.
How do I open this link that was an answer to an inop rear blower motor. http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A03-048.PDF It says I am not authorized to open. Can anyone copy it and post or email it to me? Does anyone have any info on this problem. I have already checked the 30amp fuse(55) and it is good. It is only the rear blower that doesn't come on. Is the transistor or relay a common problem? Thanks
I have an 03 Pilot with only 40 K miles. My dealer is recommending replacement of the timing belt because it is 7 years old, though the manual recommends replacement at 105 K miles. Is it really necessary to replace the belt after only 40 K miles of wear?
Doesn't seem likely but if it could easily be visually inspected, that should answer the question---the belts CAN in fact age with years as well as miles. Looking at it carefully is the only way to really answer this question IMO.
Comments
If not having a problem with a 13 year old car resulted in your drawing the conclusion that a 6 year old car would never have a problem as well, you were being a bit naive. Consider yourself luck on the first go-round rather than bashing the second.
when it comes to keys, the Honda Pilot doesn't impress me....
What did this story have to do with the "impressions" of the key itself? Better question: who would expect to be impressed by a key?
Any advise?
My wife and I test drove an '08 Highlander and wound up purchasing the Pilot Ex-L instead (her vehicle, not mine). The Highlander was fine, but here's where we felt the Pilot excelled compared to the Highlander:
- more comfortable ride; the Toyota felt a bit stiff/rigid
- Pilot felt roomier (not sure if the cargo capacity #'s would prove that out?)
- better visibility out the front window (is there a bigger front window on a vehicle, besides maybe a school bus?!)
- the leather seats seemed more comfortable
- price (I recall the Pilot was more affordable)
- my wife just loved the Pilot - end of story!
When should I change it?
One other issue is that the accellerator pedal sticks. Oddly it happened right after a service about a year ago and I essentally ignored it meaning to bring it up again. Now it's a $200 fix to essentially "clean" the throttle. Still wondering how this was missed during a major service.
This was done the first of July of 2009 and the problem has not recurred. Good luck.
John
Cayce
Does anyone know how to get to that space? It looks like you might be able to pull off some trim near the passenger's side feet area, but I'm afraid to pull for fear of breaking part of the plastic. Can anybody help me know how to get into that spot?
"Engine Taps/Raps Loudly When Going Into VCM Mode, or the MIL Comes On With DTC(s) P0301 Thru P0306"
Keep on your search for recent TSB's affecting your specific year vehicle. Good luck!
Handy with tools here, and the local dealer printed out the relevant pages from the shop manual off of their computer regarding the disassembly... took a coupla' hours but saved some $$$... won't ever make that mistake again! Stupid design and they really needed a large yellow caution label on that sliding cover to prevent this kind of occurrence.
Good luck!
On a side note the service rep told me to try higher octane gas. I tried 89 & 93 but the engine still knocks. It is less severe with th 93 octane.
Pinging has a distinct sound---it is iregular, generally light, and sounds very much like a chain dragging under the car.
If you are hearing a more regular, clock-like tapping, that probably isn't pinging.
I would think that actual "pinging" would throw a code immediately.
Anyway, you need to get a trained ear to listen to this noise.
I've owned Hondas for over 10 years now. Some of them had major mechanical defects including pre-mature transmission failures and exhaust droning. The corporate response to a design defect is "normal operating characteristic of the vehicle".
I'm lucky that I can afford to trade my cars in before the 60k mechanical warranty expires. If the engine blows up it's coming out of Honda's pocket not mine. I just make sure all the paperwork is on file.
I won a Lemon Law case with my Odyssey back when I had a lot of time to waste. Now I don't have the time to fight with the Pilot.
A quick tiny "plink" is not a worry.
I would have the knock sensor checked and also engine timing.
Dealer says they can't slide it forward, therefore can't get at the bolts to pull the seat off the frame . He suggested using a sawzall to cut the seat frame from the floor mount. (And then replacing the seat frame with a new one...)
:confuse:
Seems a little draconian. Anyone have any other suggestions?
thanks
pete
I, as many others, am used to changing oil at a specific milage. What kind of range in miles should I expect the Milage Minder to tell me to change my oil? Also, I have also been told to change the oil filter any time I change my oil. What is Honda thinking as to not changing the oil filter when I change my oil? Just curious.
Thanks in advance, WolfpackRon.
WolfpackRon.
Does any one know the exact maintenance items required under 100k other than oil changes and various inspections? such as:
timing belt changes,
spark plugs( difficult to access on this car with transversally mounted engine I assume)
brake fluid
t-case fluid
diff fluids
transmission fluid
I'll drive under normal conditions and will not tow any thing.
WolfpackRon.
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A03-048.PDF
It says I am not authorized to open. Can anyone copy it and post or email it to me?
Does anyone have any info on this problem. I have already checked the 30amp fuse(55) and it is good. It is only the rear blower that doesn't come on. Is the transistor or relay a common problem? Thanks
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
VISITING HOST