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Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • djcdjc Posts: 10
    I finally had mine fixed after a year at my expense. VW finally authorized customers being able to buy the electronic module only instead of the whole ABS package. Still cost $850, but I was tired of all the flashing lights.

    Of course, the trunk latch broke internally just before I took it in. Never seen so many problems on a five year old car.
  • roger11roger11 Posts: 2
    chloe, a "lean"condition means that there isn't enough fuel being put into the combustion chamber. this is a really bad situation especially at higher rpm ranges because it creates more heat with in the chamber. that heat negatively affects everything in the engine compartment. worst case it's possible to burn holes in your pistons or burn the valves. obviously that's a bad situation. fixing it could be as easy as a new O2 sensor which the computer uses to snif the exhaust gases. the computer will put in more fuel or reduce fuel depending on the readings it gets from the sensor. there are other potential causes of course but that will require diagnostics be done ie retrieve the codes and translate them. most likely done by a dealer because of the tendency to horde the information and make money on the servicing of vehicles. if you haven't done reasearch on the problems passat owners have with these cars and VWofA you would be well advised to do so.
  • roger11roger11 Posts: 2
    there's a good possibility that the drain tube is plugged up. check to see if you get a puddle of water *under* the car after running the AC for a while. if no puddle appears that means it's draining into the car. try finding the drain hose exiting the passenger compartment and try to clear it.
  • lyonseelyonsee Posts: 11
    I filled twice and averaged only around 20 mpg. 2005 New GLS Wagon, auto.

    About 30 % in highway with AC most of time, mpg is lower than I expected, ~25mpg.
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    Just got a flat tire (screw piereced the sidewall) and need to replace the spare tire on my 03 Passat 1.8GL. . I have been very happy with the OEM Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus- the car handles fantastically in all seasons - but they are costly at about $130 including mounting on the wheel. For about half the price I can get the Falken Ziex Z-512 - $65 - the one Consumer Reports liked so much. And then there are all those other tires out there - Bridgestone potenza, etc etc.

    Anybody have any suggestions? One reason for staying with Michelin is so I have the same tires on all four wheels (after the next one blows, or if I have to replace just three of them). But ... anyone have any suggestions?

    Thanks!
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    I just talked to the guy at a local store - he likes the Michelin Energy, but says on his Jetta he switched to the Michelin Pilot (not sure if "Exalto" or XGT h4) and said he didn't really notice much difference - but it's a lot cheaper. He said the Falken isn't as good a tire.

    Any comments? Sounds to me like I should go with the "Pilot"
  • jc9799jc9799 Posts: 70
    Premium vs regular fuel.

    Sorry, I'm sure this has already been debated many times. I know back in 02 there was a topic regarding this question.

    With the price of gas as it is, I was wondering about using regular instead of premium. I know the manual recommends premium, although I've read many opinions whether that means you have to use it.

    I know VW, in the past couple of years, has gotten very specific about what kind of oil we must use. Does anyone know if there is anything about what octane level we must use for our fuel? Does VW consider using a lower octane fuel a contributor to the sludge issue?

    For the record, I'm leaning toward using regular, but am a little worried about running into any warranty issues.
  • bjbird2bjbird2 Posts: 647
    I've heard good things about the Falken tires, not only from CR, but from actual owners.

    I was planning on replacing the OEM Continentals on my 02' 1.8T Passat with Falkens, if I decide to keep the car (another story). The price for the Falkens is good, and I have not heard a negative comment about them, except from one dealer, who did not carry Falkens and obviously wanted to sell me a tire he carried.

    My second choice was Michelin, but I was upset with them after the fiasco with the Indy Grand Prix. :P
  • c141c141 Posts: 2
    The 1999 Passat GLS V6. Bought it brand new with the 6 cd changer.
    Used to live in the city so didn't get it to drive it except on the weekends, so I have only 46000 miles on it.

    In that time:
    Broken Power Steering pump
    Needed new brakes (all four)
    Driver side tire rods replaced
    Rear speakers stopped working
    The ABS system has failed on me.

    Mechanic says he sees the VW Passat / Jetta more often than any other car.
    He said he's made enough money on me and I should trade the car in.

    I also know quite a few people who have Passats with similar experiences.

    What a :lemon:

    I'll never buy another VW again. I also work hard to disspell the notion that VW makes good cars.

    Please everyone get rid of your VW's and get something reliable like a matchbox car.
  • jalatorrejalatorre Posts: 1
    Was what your original problem and how did you solve it ?
    My daughter's Passat (94) with 115K miles just started having ignition problems, you turn the key and it will not start, sometimes after several attempts it finally starts. Not sure if it's the starter or ignition switch.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    VW recommends premium, but your manual will probably state that regular is allowed, since the engine management system will simply dial back the timing to eliminate pre-detonation.

    Let's look at the numbers though:

    Assumption: 12,000 miles a year, overall average 22.5 mpg, and 20 cents price per gallon difference between premium and regular.

    Right now, prices in my area are $2.299 for 87 and $2.499 for 93. So, over the course of a year, I would need 533.3 gallons of fuel. For regular, that's $1,226.06. For premium, that would be $1,332.72 for a difference of $106.66 over the course of a year. That's $8.89 a month, or $2.05 a week, or $0.29 a day. Interestingly, this price difference was the same when premium cost $1.499! The price spread between regular and premium has stayed at $0.20 during the price raises.

    Personally, I'd rather give up one decent coffee a week and run the recommended fuel in my car, especially since I drive the 1.8T.

    Now, Car and Driver magazine did a test on this very issue. On cars that don't recommend premium, they concluded you would be wasting money buying it. However, on cars that do recommend premium, their testing revealed a loss in performance and economy roughly equal to the price difference, roughly 10% loss, when using regular. But that article is a couple of years old when gas was much cheaper.

    I'd say if their findings were true, the price of fuel has risen high enough that running regular in a Passat could actually cost you more than running premium! Again, let's look at the numbers. If C&D is correct, and you lose 10% fuel economy running regular, my car would get 20.25 mpg. I would now need to use 592.6 gallons of fuel, at a cost of $1,362.39.

    I'm sticking with premium from top tier suppliers to minimize my chances of fuel problems. In the truest sense of the phrase, YMMV!
  • tichtich Posts: 1
    I also have a problem with a dropped window. If you've got the answer on how to get the door panel off I'd appreciate it if you'd let me know as well - Thanks
  • jc9799jc9799 Posts: 70
    Thanks for the answer. I guess my ? should have been more specific. Can using regular instead of premium contribute to the so-called oil sludge problem?
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I have not heard of any connection between oil sludge and regular fuel usage.

    The sludge (I'd prefer that it be called a "coking problem") problem appears to be directly related to the following:
    1) Hot turbocharger.
    2) Small total oil capacity for a turbocharged engine.
    3) Poorly phrased owner's manual that should have come right out and said, in plain English, that the 1.8T engine requires high quality synthetic oil in the correct grade.
    4) Poor maintenance by owners - too long of oil change intervals using poorly chosen oil.
    5) Poorly written owner's manual that doesn't specify what constitutes "severe" usage.
    6) Lack of 2 minute turbo cool-down by most drivers, when stopping after hard driving.

    Experienced VW techs have written in some other forums that what actually happens is the oil cooks in the turbo and cokes into hard particles that make their way back to the oil pan and then clog the oil pump intake screen, under some circumstances. The clogged screen starves the engine of lubricant. Undetected, this will eventually destroy the engine.

    Your best defense is to use synthetic oil meeting VW's 502.00 spec, change the oil at no more than 5,000 miles or 6 months, use the larger "068" oil filter, and let the engine idle for two minutes after a hard run before shutting down.
  • mard940mard940 Posts: 4
    I am shipping a car from NJ to Colorado next week. What types of adjustments , if any, would I need to make for the 2002 passat. should I just drive it and let the computers do their job i re setting itself, do I need to take it to a shop for a "tuneup", I even had one mechanic reccomended that I remove the battery cables and reattach them :confuse: which would enable the system to reset itself at altitude.

    what do you reccomend ?

    thanks
  • nomorevw2nomorevw2 Posts: 4
    June '05
    alternatator (ball bearings replaced) - $365 :(
    timing belt - $300
    plastic container that holds wiper fluid - $280

    July '05
    brakes and rear disk - $639 :cry:
    a/c - 1056.62 :sick:
    front passenger side window 'droped' - ???haven't fixed it yet??? (anyone know) :lemon:

    August '05
    trade in - PRICELESS!!!
  • jc9799jc9799 Posts: 70
    Thanks!
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Out of morbid curiosity, what year was your car?

    Also, for your $639 brake job, was that just the rear brake pads and rotors, or brakes all the way around plus rear rotors? I ask since I just replaced my rear brake pads and rotors for under just $80.

    So, what did you buy to replace it?
  • chaz318chaz318 Posts: 16
    a family member currently owns a 2002 passat gls 1.8t with 45 or so thousand miles. until about 43000 miles this car was a champ but at that point some elctrical quiblles began coming about. It started with the window switch that would only work with auto for the drivers side, meanwhile the clock began displaying the times of many different countries and timezones but somehow was unable to get the time for the area it was located in, a great trick if only htere was a seperate display that stated what countries time it was showing. then came the gauge cluster which would decide to take breaks while driving and would jsut sit there like a lifeless animal, all the while the doorlocks had become possessed, on soem occassions they performed as they should but others they would lock an unlock as they pleased giving a nice little jig rivaling that of river dancing. So the car was brought to VW, needless to say after a new gauge cluster and some computer reworking the car was back, yet only about a week later the car began to act up again. The clock again was pulling off its little trick, but not had somehow gotten the trip odometer to follow suit and reset itself as it pleased, meanwhile the new gauge cluster again decided knowing how much gas was left in the tank or hte engine temperature was irrelevant to the driver. The windows began to not respond to the inputs the driver gave to the switches, acting like a stubborn spoiled kid (if you pushed up it stays down, down it stays up) meanwhile the locks were back to practicing there jig and had gained a lead singer, the car alarm, namely by the fact that the keyfob has begun to stop working in locking the car, but somehow the car knows you pushed lock because when you go back to the car to open it after pushign the lock button the alarm sounds off. The rear locks though have gotten a bit lethargic and have begun to stya in the locked position making it impossible to open the rear doors.Now i ask has nanyone else suffered similar or maybe even the same situation (im sorry if this has already been posted before but i read ten pages and didnt see anything of this and its jsut to long to check the whole thread) and what was it that was wrong (frying circuit board, computer just needs to be reworked???) and has this problem reoccured after the supposed proper treatment for thos ethis have occured to? sorry but until now this car has been a blast , and hope that it can continue to be.
  • quackattakquackattak Posts: 13
    These cars are for people that can do the work themselves, or have enough money to not worry about taking it to a dealer. All the people that complain about this being such a terrible car should just go buy a camry or accord. This car is unique compared to what else is on the road, it takes special oil, good gas and a few more tweaks than the other sedans on the road. If you like running cheap gas, cheap oil and looking like everyone else just go buy another car. My 2002 1.8t is very safe, very comfortable, fun to drive and I enjoy working on it. If you do not like your passat, get something else.
  • rob_passatrob_passat Posts: 13
    Egad (as my Dad used to say) :confuse: . You have so many problems it is hard to believe that they do not have a common cause. My guess is that the electronics have a loose (ground?) wire. Probably very difficult to find.
  • jason19jason19 Posts: 1
    hi does anyone know how what to do when the computer is giving the code P1128 the repair book says that the long term fuel trim is to lean (bank 1) does anyone know what this means thanks
  • nomorevw2nomorevw2 Posts: 4
    Well, enjoy your wonderful 2002 while you can. In less than 5 years it is going to fall apart around you :sick: . Then you will enjoy it more because you can put all your time into it and all the money that you have. :cry:

    Mine was fine for the first 3 1/2 years too.
  • nomorevw2nomorevw2 Posts: 4
    Typo $619

    Here's the breakdown:

    Original Equipment front brake pads $119.99.
    Original Equipment rear brake pads $89.99.
    Original Equipment rear brake rotors $159.98.
    Labor $170.

    Shop fees and taxes bring the price to $619

    2000 GLX V6.
    I haven't replaced it yet.
  • I bought my passat in March 2002. I bought the car overseas in germany and had to get all of the fuel coils replaced before October 2002.

    I brought my car over to the states and since have had nothing but trouble.

    The check engine light keeps coming on. I go to auto zone and I borrow their computer reader and the fault is that the Evap System purge flow valve is bad and that the system is running to lean. I have replaced the fuel filter Apr 2004 and the gas cap May 2005.

    I also have the same problem with the presure paint peeling off inside of the car.

    I also had to replace enitire bracking system $500.

    If you have any information about the error codes and what i need to do to fix the problem please help!!!
  • quackattakquackattak Posts: 13
    Every car needs work, more so with age. Where ever you have taken your passat to get repairs done have really enjoyed your business. Those prices are insane, they actually told you that you needed alternator bearings! New complete alternator for the passat about 120.00, Timing belt runs about 35.00, Brakes and rotors about 120.00 per axle, a/c compressor about 250.00. All these are normal prices and normal wear items. If you have to go to the dealer you should find something very common to drive that a good local mechanic could work on, or a good local foreign car mechanic to keep your vw going. 95% of the time you go into a dealer your gonna get hosed. As most people that come on here to complain about vw, you didn't register to this site until you were already fed up with vw. Alot of people on here support vw products and would have been more than happy to help you with any questions.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    You wrote:
    Here's the breakdown:

    Original Equipment front brake pads $119.99.
    Original Equipment rear brake pads $89.99.
    Original Equipment rear brake rotors $159.98.
    Labor $170.


    Here's my breakdown:
    Upgraded PBR rear pads: $26.75
    ATE (OEM) rear brake rotors: $25.77 x 2 = $51.54
    Labor: D.I.Y.
    Total: $78.29

    Haven't done the front yet, but:
    Upgraded PBR pads: $46.81
    Brembo front rotors: $41.20 x 2 = $82.40.
    Labor: D.I.Y.
    Total Expected Cost: $129.21

    Wow, 200% mark up on parts....
  • zorro16zorro16 Posts: 31
    Gentlemen, I need your help,

    I'm a 1996 passat owner. One of my headlight bulbs was blown off.I need your advise weather is it a do at home thing to replace the bulbs or do i have to take it to the dealer??

    can't afford to take to the dealer. for a 10 min work he is going to charge for an 1/2 hr work. already spended more than 5000$ :mad: in last 3 yrs at the dealer.

    need your advise people.

    thanks
  • nomorevw2nomorevw2 Posts: 4
    Every car needs work, more so with age.

    Understood; I actually have a '96 Saturn that I brought brand new and it's only had an alternator relaced and regular maintence.

    Where ever you have taken your passat to get repairs done have really enjoyed your business. Those prices are insane

    Now I'm not handy by any stretch of the imagination. But I know enough to shop around. I don't even think about the dealer! for the a/c compressor (rebuilt) and dryer with labor two different places gave me quotes of $900 - $1000 (these were the best I could find). The two dealers I called wanted $2000!

    Could high prices be a result of the area you live in almost like realestate? I live in Miami and I'm just about convinced shops here are thiefs and in league with each other.

    As most people that come on here to complain about vw, you didn't register to this site until you were already fed up with vw

    True. I didn't even know about these fourms until I started looking for a replacement car. I actually searched different fourmns to see what car had the least complaints. Seems to be the civic, but I don't know if I can handle the step down. The VW is a sweet ride.

    Alot of people on here support vw products and would have been more than happy to help you with any questions.

    I got a quote for the dropped down window - $275

    Also, The mechanic says my engine mounts are going bad. I asked him how much to fix it and he just stared at me with a look that said don't ask. How much should this run me?
  • quackattakquackattak Posts: 13
    Big city does mean big prices, I live in rural idaho so everything is a little cheaper. A independent mechanic would be what I would search for, someone that would just do the work and you buy the parts. That way your only paying labor and no parts mark up. Ebay is a great source for good priced parts, just look around alot. I do think the passat requires more care than other cars, thats why I think its not that good of a match for some people. The VW is a sweet ride, kinda of a no pain no gain thing. The window regulator sounds high and if you pay that price I hope you get a warranty, VW has trouble with that. Motor mounts should not cost more 2-300.00 dollars for everything, I would put that at the bottom of the list, not a real critical thing yet. Also just curious what year and model of the car, maybe I can help point you in the right direction for some parts.
  • vwsucksvwsucks Posts: 1
    I hate to be the bearer of bad news but my brand new Passat has been in the shop longer than my driveway. I had it for less than 3 days and it has been in the service bay for 6 days with no end in sight.

    The transmission went immediately and the tech's cannot figure it out. They are fix #3 and may have it ready in another 5 days.

    VW Corporate refuses to switch me into another comparable car or buy me out.

    The dealer suggested that I get a lawyer and to document everything as it is most likely a LEMON. Neither the dealer nor corporate care about me.

    Beware - VW's #1 priority is FIXING THE CAR. This means they want to fix the car and keep my money - no wiggle room at all.

    The "Customer Advocates" told me that the customer is not a priority and telling me otherwise would be a lie.

    Vincent Volkswagen in East Rochester, NY SUCKS as does VW the company.

    If I'm stuck with this Lemon it will be the last VW I ever buy.

    Tell a friend and be forewarned.
  • c141c141 Posts: 2
    I bought this car because I didn't want to be like everyone else. I hated the idea of driving around in an Accord or Camry.
    I also had no desire (or have the extra $) for a BMW, Mercedes... (those are pretty common too).
    But to say the car is meant for people who know how to fix it themselves essentially limits the audience down to about 2000 people (okay I know it's not the exact number, but you gotta admit it won't be a lot of people).

    More so, is that the motto for VW - "Be different, buy a VW -but make sure you know how to fix it yourself because this baby's going to cost you"

    It's doesn't make much sense. Make the car work and stand behind your product. Otherwise the only way you're different is that you look like a fool.
  • quackattakquackattak Posts: 13
    That's all the same reasons I bought mine, its to bad vw has such a bad dealer reputation. I think its rewarding to learn and know about how your car works, and it will definitely benefit you if you do that with your vw. The thing with vw is when you reach a problem that stumps you, the options on where you can go to get help is limited. I think the dealers know this and thats why they really charge what they want and treat you as they want. If this was different more people would be driving vw's and we would be back to looking like everyone else. I'm not a auto mechanic, but I do work as a heavy equipment mechanic. The company I work for has three diesel jetta's from 2000-2005, I've been able to handle the problems so far, but the couple of time I called the dealer for input I found out how much trouble a person is in if they have no car knowledge What I was trying to say that if people don't have the money to go to the dealer, its best to buy a book and learn about your car. I learn most of my info from reading and searching alot on the internet. I'm not a genius by any means but a code scanner and the internet goes along way.
  • emoniqueemonique Posts: 3
    I wasn't sure which thread to post a reply so I am starting a new message. I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T (my 2nd VW after my 2000 Passat). I love the car but am frustrated with the rotor/brake problems. I replaced the rear rotors at 28k miles, the rear brake pads in the mid 30k, and have just put my second set of rear rotors on at 40k miles :mad: When I first started having problems last year, this site (along with an honest service rep) led me to what the problem was. Unfortunately VW doesn't seem to acknowledge the problem as there are no service bulletins or recalls. I am having serious heartburn over thinking that I will have to have brake work done every 10k-12k miles in order to keep it within warranty. And now my husband thinks that I am making this up, just so I can get a new car.

    Can anyone point me to where there might be some more backup for this problem, or expand a little more on it in here. I have had both of the replacements done at Stohlman VW in Tysons Corner, VA (where I purchased). I had both Springfield and Brown's tell me there was nothing wrong.... Thanks!
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Well, if I were you, the first thing I'd do is find out what the lemon laws are in your state. Usually, the car has to be disabled for so many days with the same problem. Looks like you're well on the way.

    The second thing I'd do is consult with one of the lemon-law attorneys. In my state, it appears that they get their money out of the auot companies, not the customer. It looks like you have a :lemon: .
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Could you clarify a little bit? You say you replaced the rear rotors at 28K and then replaced the pads in the mid 30's, then replaced the rotors again at 40K. Are you saying you ran old brake pads on new rotors from 28K to say, 35K? I don't believe that's recommended.

    And exactly what is the problem? Are the brake pads wearing out? Are the rotors warping? Both?
  • emoniqueemonique Posts: 3
    What I have been told is that the rotors are warping. I get a pulsating, non-smooth braking, when the problem starts. It is intermittent at first and then becomes more consistent. When I first had the problem in the 20K mile range, I had 1 dealer tell me there was nothing wrong, then the next dealer say that he could see the problem starting but they weren't to the point the could be replaced under warranty. Which led me to dealer #3 who replaced them at the 28K mark. At that time, they said the rotors were warped but the pads weren't bad????? I then started having problems again, which is when I took it back in and they said the rear pads needed to be replaced. Problem again just last month, which is where I am at now.

    I vaguely remember reading somewhere that there was some type of flaw that has the rear brakes engaging before the front brakes? I have found numerous posts on the consumer complaint board on NHTSA of people having a lot of problems but nothing from VW itself.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    You wrote:
    I vaguely remember reading somewhere that there was some type of flaw that has the rear brakes engaging before the front brakes?

    This has been debated back and forth. Does the Passat have a rear brake bias under some (light to moderate) braking conditions? Whether it does or not has never been fully clarified to my satisfaction.

    The rear disc does has a tendency to warp. I've read that it's due to the brake bias, or that the rear disc is smallish for the size of the Passat, or that it's due to over-torquing/unequal torquing of the wheel bolts.

    All I can tell you is, I replaced my rear rotors and pads at 25,000 miles. The pads were worn more on the left rear than the right rear. I can't say that I noticed any warpage while driving. I did an extra thorough job cleaning the brake carriers to remove as much rust as possible and I lubed everything well. I wouldn't have put new rotors on a car without changing the pads, as happened to your car at 28K. I think that's just asking for trouble. If they machined your rotors at 28,000 miles, that would lend itself to having the rotors warp - rotors on many cars are not thick enough to re-surface.
  • Any recommendations for cleaning the leatherette upholstery in an '04 gls? How about the dashboard? I've heard to stay away from Armor-All, and maybe go with a microfiber dust rag. Thanks in advance for the suggestions.
  • So what happened? We have had many, many problems with our VW 2001.5 Passat Wagon. It is now, for the 2nd time, had the STOP engine oil pressure warning come on. They fixed it after much fighting for free but it's doing it again. Anyone else had this experience???? What was your outcome?
  • ric2ric2 Posts: 1
    I just returned from having my rear rotors replaced. The vehicle was “lunging” so bad that I was using the transmission to slow it down. It was embarrassing to have someone in the car. This is at 23K! Supposedly there is a TSB about this problem. Does anyone know where to locate it? I ended up paying the labor and VW supplied the parts. I have never had to replace brakes on any vehicle I have ever owned, let alone at this low mileage. I am going to try and see if I can get some explanation from VW America. The other odd thing that happened was that my driver’s side sunshade clip broke. I ended up paying $7.00 for it. What DOES the 4 year warranty cover?
  • emoniqueemonique Posts: 3
    I don't think there is a TSB out there for this issue. All I ever found on NHTSA was a lot of complaints. I had a 2000 Passat that I never once had brake issues. I found some helpful information on another site that pegs the problem being the VW parts and that when people put aftermarket rotors and pads (at the same time) that they no longer have the problem. That might be what I try next.... Love the car but seriously disappointed with VWoA and their response or lack of to all these problems :(
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    I use Blue Coral Leather/Vinyl cleaner and conditioner. Works great and provides a nice smell. It doesn't leave a glossy finish. For the dash I use the following product from meguiars. It's safe and readily available!!

    http://www.meguiars.com/whatsnew/quikinterior05.cfm
  • I have a 1999 VW Passat 1.8T with tiptronic transmission, and, most of the time, love it. Drives great, rarely has mechanical issues.

    But I currently have a problem that has me and the local european auto mechanic baffled and hope that someone might have some past experience or insight they can share.

    If I drive my car around for about 20-40 minutes, park for 10-20 and then attempt to restart, the car will not start. The best way to describe the situation is to imagine you are attempting to start an old car with a manual transmission, you turn the key, hear the engine and then start pumping the gas pedal until it catches. That is essentially what happens here, though pumping the gas pedal does not help.

    Normally I can get the car to start within about 10 minutes after repeated attempts so long as I am patient a take my time, but it seems to be getting worse and I do not look forward to getting stranded somewhere.

    Now here's the catch. This problem NEVER happens when the engine is cold, in the mornings or after sitting for an extended period of time...NEVER! I hear the term vapor-lock a lot, but that pursuit has not yielded any positive results.

    Suggestions and ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    For starters, how many miles do you have on your car? When was the last time your fuel filter was changed? A clogged fuel filter may contribute to the hard starting problems. If you had the fuel filter changed, the next question should be - have you had your ignition coils changed per the VW recall? If the coils have been changed, then I would have the fuel pump tested (assuming that the fuel filter is new and the coils have been changed). The hard starting / non starting problems could be an indication that the fuel pump has seen its better days - but it would be good to have it tested - just to make sure.

    Those are the first three items I would check out before proceeding any further.

    Good luck and let us know the outcome...
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I'm thinking sensor on the engine. Maybe temperature sensor. Do you think it's starved for fuel or flooding? Problem with hot start...I'll have to take a look at Bentley and see if it gives any hints. Are there any other clues you could give? Does your oil smell like gasoline? When the car does start, are you getting any unusual smoke out the exhaust?

    Fuel filter...well, why does it start when it's cold? Fuel pump...some owners have had failures and at some shockingly low mileage numbers, but all of I've read shows the failure to be immediate and complete; suddenly the car won't run and it won't run again until the pump is replaced. Dunno...I'm stumped.

    PS: Temperature sensor is pretty cheap (under $10). Might be worth a try.

    PPS: What elese has your tech done or suggested?
  • Thanks for the quick replies and suggestions.

    My car has ~90K miles on it, regular synthetic oil changes and use premium gas. Fuel filter, timing belt and water pump were changed after this problem began (within the last two months). Fuel pump was successfully tested at that time too. Oil does not smell like gas and no smoke from exhaust. Do not believe it is flooding or starved for fuel, though twice I have been able to start it by opening the hood and manually rev'ing the engine while someone else turned the key, but does not always work.

    Have not changed the ignition coils, it's been a while since I looked at that topic, but I thought that recall didn't affect my particular year/model. I'll have to go back and double-check. Also, I will look into a temperature sensor, I assume something I can get from an autoparts store.

    Tech suggested replacing/resetting timing belt, fuel filter, also resetting the onboard computer and that has been it so far. I think they are stumped.
  • drew7drew7 Posts: 4
    Hey guys. My wife has an 04 passat gls, and while backing it out of the parking space, the car made a medium pitch whirring sound, I coudn't really tell where it was coming from, but didn't seem like the engine, but I figure a car that is only a year old shouldn't be making sounds like that? What might this be, and is it normal? I have an 03 Accord, and it never makes any noises. Should I be worried, or is it no big deal? I wouldn't think it happens much, as my wife has never mentioned anything. Thanks!

    To describe the sound, it would be similar to rubbing a wet finger around the rim of a crystal glass, but the pitch would be lower and the sound volume much higher. Hope that helps.
  • onparonpar Posts: 6
    At 30,600 miles, the warning light to "STOP turn motor off" light came on. Luckily I was only 200 yds from my independent BP mechanic station.

    They detected the problem. I contacted Road side assistance, they towed the car to 3 Rivers Volkswagon in McMurray PA.

    VW called this AM, and told me the same as my independent dealer. They want all oil change records before they touch my 4cyl "03 Passat w/ 1.8 turbo. That's fine. But I have the feeling, while the car is still under warranty, they're going to attempt to stick me with the bill for synthetic vs regular oil, even though the oil was changed on or before each 5,000 mile recommendation.

    Is synthetic a requirement or a recommendation? Is anyone else seeing a problem coming? If so, what do you anticipate.

    Thanks,

    tom
  • prometeyprometey Posts: 4
    Please help!

    I just purchased a new 2005 Passat GLX V6. The car is a real pleasure to drive, however, with the first tank of gas, it went only for a 240 miles with average consumption of 14-15 MPG. I got concerned and after I put gas for second time, I have been closely monitoring the MPG numbers which so far show average of 19 MPG. 19 doesn't sound so bad if I was not driving 90% on the highway.

    I am very disappointed and my question is: Is this normal or not? Should I go back to the dealership to complain. Most important indicator for me is - how many miles does a 2.8 V6 engine go?

    Thanks for your help!
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