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Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    I would recommend getting the tires balanced and maybe aligned and see if that takes care of the vibration. I am not sure why a engine would vibrate at a certain speed. Good luck!!
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Get the water pump done, too.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    Every since I bought a new Ford in 1968 and took it back to the dealer to have it serviced, I ALWAYS check the oil level and invoice after the service. The Ford dealer way back then, different dealers since then, and the VW dealer now, frequently put in too much oil or the wrong oil. I have had my 2004 TDI serviced twice, and each time I have pumped out a liter of oil afterwards. (I now have a good supply to top it off when needed, which it hasn't needed.) The concept that different engines require different amounts and types of oil is unfathomable to many of the employees assigned the task. These are usually not the trained VW service techs. In other words, my guess is the service manager was feeding you a line. If you have been lucky so far, your engine probably has not been damaged.
  • vwteachervwteacher Posts: 1
    Hi! I've got so many problems with my VW right now that it looks like my dashboard is all lit up! I have about 93K miles on my car and bought it two years ago used. Just recently the following warning lights have appeared on my dashboard, and stressing me out! I have the following problems: 1) ABS/brake light going on, which in turns has the STOP brake fault; 2) emission workshop light on (replaced both oxygen sensors and mass air flow sensor in the past year) 3) check engine light; 4) oil pressure - STOP/turn off motor...I've had all my regular oil changes done and just had Pennzoil look at it for sludge and they found none...not sure what the problem is. My boyfriend thinks it's an electrical problem since my car seems to be running fine and my oil level or temperature gauge has not changed. I've got an appointment with a VW dealership on Wednesday but I'd like to be prepared before hand of any possible problems that they may find. I've read a lot of ABS modules that have needed to be replaced, and I can't afford to get it fixed. If anyone could help with the problems I mentioned above, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks for your help!
  • spyder52spyder52 Posts: 30
    First of all I have to say I love the car but the problems are starting to get on my nerves! I seem to go to service center on a regular basis now. Sometime it's safty recall, other times is a faulty engine light, etc. The first week of my 02 delivery when new my onboard computer went dead, fast forward 3 years, front seat edge cushion callaped (I weight 170lbs). This week my radio is replaced because it died for no reason. Today I found out my A pillar clearcoat is peeling (will be see a regional rep to authorize repaint per dealer next week or two). Finally, today I also found out from dealer my rear brake rotors are warpped!!!!!! Due to heat and the design of the non-ventilated rear rotors they have to be replaced! When you are braking gently, and if your car feels like you are pumping the brakes to stop, your rotor may be warpped! Check with your dealer is you car is not stopping perfectly smoothly. :mad:
  • Hi,

    I recently purchased a used Passat and, of course, no owners manual came with the car! I just replaced the rack and pinion stearing column, which, because the car had 110,000 miles on it, I figured was par for the course.
    Can someone supply me with answers to the following questions:

    1. How do you set stations on the radio?
    2. How do you change the time on the clock?
    3. How do you replace the radio antenna?

    Thanks,
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    1) When your on the station you want to program, hold one of the preset buttons until it beeps.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    2. How do you change the time on the clock?

    By turning the pin sticking out of the instrument cluster. In one direction, it changes the hours and the other direction changes the minutes.
  • Hi,

    Thanks to Fish8 and altair4 for the radio and clock answers. Has anyone else tried the new shark antennas?

    Thanks
  • martin78martin78 Posts: 1
    Since 1997, I have purchased five new Volkswagen Automobiles. In 1997 I purchased my first VW, a Jetta that lasted over 100,000 miles. I traded it in on a 2001 Jetta and also got a Beetle for my wife the same day. The Jetta went almost 100,000 miles before I traded it for a 2004 Passat. I also traded the 2001 Beetle for a 2003 Turbo Beetle. In all I have almost 300,000 miles behind the wheel of Volkswagens. They are terrific cars that have terrific mileage, handling, reliability, safety, and performance.

    They also have a power-train warranty that is written in smoke on a windy day.

    On 10 Jun 2005, with slightly over 38,000 miles of use, and well within the power-train warranty of 60 month/60,000 mile, the engine lost oil pressure in Maryland on I-95. The Passat was towed to the nearest dealer in Delaware at no cost to me within two hours. The dealership took the car in and was ready to get to work. I rented a car and got on my way. Excellent so far!

    About an hour down the road, the dealership called me and informed me that the warranty may not cover the repair, since the computer system did not show the initial service at a VW dealership in Fayetteville, NC and I could not find proof that I changed the oil at 10,000 miles and 25,000 miles (which I did in my garage using oil filters from the local dealer and premium Castrol 5W-30 motor oil. The records; however, did show service at 18,000 and 34,000 miles at my local dealership. I have seven reasonable questions:

    1. Why should an extremely loyal five-time buyer (more than one car every-other year) have to prove anything?

    2. Why are VW owners “guilty until proven innocent” by Volkswagen of America for warranty coverage?

    3. Why doesn’t VW prove why it should not honor their warranty versus having the owner prove that VW of America should?

    4. Why can’t the 800 service line help the customer, other than offer a plethora of apologies?

    5. How does Volkswagen of America treat their first-time buyers?

    6. Why do VW Owners and Dealers believe in the cars and VW of America doesn’t?

    I understand VW of America’s concerns about non-VW parts, modifications by the owner that may damage the car, or improper use (racing) of the car; however, Passat owners do not strike me as the type. I use (and always use) only VW parts from the dealership. I use the car to commute to work and to travel with my wife. Neither uses are racing activities. Such concerns do not excuse such alienation of the owners!

    7. My last question is: why should I ever buy another (or recommend) VW product again?
  • cranfordcranford Posts: 1
    I am wondering if anyone can help me. I have sunk just about everything I own into my 99 Passat GLS. The lights that illuminate the three temperature control dials come on only when they "feel" like it. The power mirrors, locks, interior lights and gas door don't work anymore. In order to fill up my gas tank, I now have to tear down the trunk interior and manually pull the little motor cable to release the door to the gas tank! I have checked all of the fuses, but they are fine. I had a dealership look at it and they told me they couldn't help either w/o tearing apart the entire electrical system to the tune of over $1000.00.

    I have 55K miles on this car and it sounds to me like the CV boots are going out. Everytime I come to a stop or go over a bumpy road, my suspension squeaks and whines. My power steering feels like it is going out too. Does anyone have any insight for me? I owe 8K on the car and am getting ready to sell it to the highest bidder just so I can get it off my hands.

    Thanks!
  • djarosdjaros Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. My car is in the shop again and this time they're replacing the wiring harness (a $2,000 expense that is fortunately covered under warranty). Not sure if this will fix it, but judging from your diagnosis it just might. It's extremely frustrating as the service departments can't really be sure they have fixed a problem, they simply run a bunch of tests and look for failures. If all passes, the car is good to go and they may never know what was wrong.

    I'm picking up my car tomorrow. I'll post again to let you know if the problem has been fixed.
  • hanfordhanford Posts: 2
    My water pump failed after 52K miles.(Just out of warranty as you know). Very expensive repair followed. As with a timing belt change, the whole front end had to be removed. Question: Anyone had this problem with such low mileage? I will write to VW of America and express my disappointment and ask for some kind of reimbursement. Good luck to me.
  • hanfordhanford Posts: 2
    My mistake regarding the age of the GLX. It's a 2002. Still in shock over the repair cost. Sorry.
  • chipmakerhwchipmakerhw myrtle beach scPosts: 1
    I have a 1999 1.8 passat, 112K miles that i changed to mobil 1 2 months ago. oil lite came on, no oil ! no leaks ! I was told the synthetic oil was too thin ? the dealer wants megs bucks to check it out. anyone heard of this. thanks.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Make sure the synthetic oil complies with the VW 502.00 specification (they should have it posted at the service department in your VW dealer). There's only two oils that are 5w-30 and one 0w-40 (Mobil 1). The rest are 5w-40. If you are using any other viscosity than those listed or if you use dino (conventional) oil, you are risking engine damage and sludge.

    Also check the exhaust pipe for any signs of oil residue. If you find oil residue, that could mean anything from worn piston rings to failed turbocharger bearing seals.

    Most importantly, make sure you check the oil level each time you pull into the service station to get gas. It will give you a better idea about the engine's rate of oil consumption. And get your oil changed every 3500 - 5000 miles (and not 1 mile over the 5000 mile limit).
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    What viscosity of Mobil 1?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Mobil 1 0w-40 is on the VW 502.00 specification
  • hello....Being forced to go to dealership because of OBDII& Emissions failure. Just looking for some advice, as 1) They don't have a reputation of honesty/fair pricing , esp. w/ females.

    The inspection receipt specified these two failures... would those be the only things req'd to pass inspection or will they do their own, and claim that other misc. repairs need to be done?
    Also, I called VW to check warranty, and some emissions related repairs are covered, will they still charge me a diagnostic fee/and or hourly labor fees at dealership? thanks.
  • jradjrad Posts: 1
    I have 2000 Passat GLS with all the bells and whistles. Sadly I have a repeat problem with the front fender wells. The plastic part that goes inside the wells keeps getting rubbed and ripped up by the front wheels. I brought it into my dealer (terrible service by the way) and told them what was going on. After making a huge stink they said that they would cover labor and that I would have to pay for the part. Now the problem arises again. I just got my wheels rotated and they are now rubbing again and tearing the crap out of the wheel wells. It only happens at speed since I can not see the wheel touch the skirting any other time. Has anyone else found this problem and what has been done about it. I have seen many other Passats with this problem but the dealer keeps saying it is my problem. It is clearly a design flaw. What do we have to do to get VW to recall or take action on this? Please help. I am scheduled to go into the shop again next wed to see what can happen. Thanks for the help. JRAD :mad:
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    It's not a design flaw.

    My guess is that the plastic shield (also known as the "belly pan") that covers the underside of the engine is missing or not properly attached. The belly pan has about 14 attachment points, two of which are at the bottom of each front wheel liner.

    The reason this only happens at speed is that the air pressure pushes the wheel liners back. The attachments to the belly pan at the front bottom of the wheel well liners prevents that from happening.

    The belly pan is a notorious part, as quick lube places don't deal with it well. For that matter, even some dealership service departments have been known to lose the quarter-turn connectors.

    If yours is missing, and you opt to replace it, I suggest that you price the belly pan for the W8 model. Seems that, for some reason, it is less expensive and possibly of a better grade of material. Or you just may need to buy the connectors, if you are lucky. Some owners, in an emergency (or even longer ;) ) use zip ties to hold the liners back from rubbing.
  • jake20jake20 Posts: 5
    i'm trying to find a good, reliable, and affordable used car (preferably under $18k). want room but also good gas mileage. so have shifted search from SUV to wagons.

    so now considering either:
    * '00 passat glx wagon with 40k miles at $15,998
    * '01 saab 9-5 wagon with 30k miles at $16,998
    * '01 volvo v70 wagon with 60k miles at $19,599

    based on price/mileage, style, and edmunds reviews, i'm seriously considering the passat glx wagon.

    questions for those who have experience with passat's and buying used cars in general:

    * any other wagons,i should consider based on price, style, gas mileage, and reliability criteria?
    * as for the passat wagon, is this a good price? (it's high according to tmv)
    * is the passat going to last another 5-6 years at 15k miles/year?
    * is the passat reasonably reliable with relatively low maintenance issues/costs? (e.g. how much difference b/w the passat and the hondas/toyotas of the world in terms of reliability?)
    * anything i should know about the passat wagon before i buy it?

    many thanks for your experience/insights on any/all of the above questions...
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    I would avoid any Passat earlier than 2003 (2002 and earlier were very problematic). My wife has a 2003 Passat that has had absolutely no problems at 35,000 miles (Consumer Reports rates it as a Recommended pick with a projected reliability rating of average). As far as the 01 Volvo, I would be wary of that as well (electrical issues). Go with the Saab. I'm looking at the latest Consumer Reports guide, and the 01 Saab fared the better out of all three in the reliability verdict department (average reliability vs. below average reliability of the other two).

    Hondas/Toyotas are reliable cars, but they lack the upscale factor of the three cars that you are considering.
  • Hi, I own a 2001 VW Passat 1.8T and it has around 62K miles on it. When I am in drive, sitting at a stoplight, the idle lunges up and down. (between .75 and 1.25) If I slightly take my foot off the brake, then the entire car lunges forward. The dealers are unclear as to what it is, they checked my car "computer" and it had nothing wrong with it. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • klh3klh3 Posts: 18
    I have 05 Passat GLX Wagon 4motion, 6k miles. I am very glad I bought it. I looked at Volvo,Saab,Subaru and Audi. For the $$$$ the Passat is a bargain. It looks great inside and out,has all of the features others pay extra for and it drives fantastic. As far as problems,none so far. I did purchase an extended warranty 7yr/100k. I know of other brands that have been "shop queens" as well. The most reliable transportation I have found so far is, my own two feet and they sometimes have problems. My point is anyone looking at a NEW Passat, buy it. No matter what brand you buy used, you are probably going to inherit some issues. :shades:
    my 2 cents
  • mnewson1mnewson1 Posts: 1
    My left rear power window motor will not lower the window, only raise it (after you manually push the window down). My guess is that whatever grabs the window (to lower it) isn't grabbing.

    I would appreciate any tips on a) removing the inside door panel, and b) fixing this problem.
  • I know this answer is a bit belated, but I had the same problem (crunching noise) when I got my 04 GLS 1.8T wagon over a year ago. At first, the service tech was dumbfounded, but finally came to the conclusion that it was the ABS. Mine still makes the noise, and I've had zero problems to date, so I guess all is well and it's nothing to be concerned about. However, I am wondering if others have experienced this issue?
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,863
    I hear what sounds like a crunching noise when I first start out in the AM in my 3 week old wagon.

    I chalked it up to ABS/ESP doing a self test - it's a common sound in ABS equipped Hondas which I've driven for many years.
  • klh3klh3 Posts: 18
    Does this "sound" happen like during the first 50 feet or less from a dead start first thing?If yes, it is NORMAL.
    I too was concerned , then found out it was normal!
    my2cents
  • leviza117leviza117 Posts: 1
    Hi Japher:

    I am trying to change the oil for the first time myself on my 2001 1.8L Passat. I cannot find the oil drain plug and it looks loke the plastic thing is hanging on by 1 bolt. I also read in another posting, you have to remove the something to get to the filter. Did you figure this out ? What did you find?
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    It sounds like you are referring to the belly pan. Actually, it has about 14 connectors, including a 10 mm nut at the front, under the bumper. The rest are mostly "quarter-turn" connectors.

    Be careful with your search for the oil drain! More than one person has accidentally drained their transmission fluid by mistake. IIRC, the oil drain plug drains towards the right side of the car. Others may be able to shed some light on this.

    To remove the oil filter on the 1.8T, it's usually easier to reach it from the top. You can either loosen the clamp on the large air hose that runs from the intercooler to the intake manifold and then push that hose out of the way (I've seen several VW techs do this). Or you can remove the three screws that hold the coolant reservoir, unplug the electrical connector and gently move the reservoir aside (you don't have to disconnect the hose). To me, moving the air hose seems easier, but whatever floats your boat...

    Good luck!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    ... also make sure you use a VW 502.00 specification motor oil (read: synthetic), and use the bigger VW filter for the Passat that brings the total oil capacity to 4.2 quarts (as opposed to the 3.9 quart capacity the car came out of the factory with). I would buy the filter at the dealer, and get the list of 502.00 spec oils (which you can buy at an auto parts store such as Auto Zone, etc.).
  • passatonerpassatoner Posts: 14
    How important is it to use the bigger VW filter (4.2 quarts)? I just had oil change done for my Passat 2002 at Jiffy Lube - I did show them the VW 502.00 spec and have them use the penzzoil synthetic oil but they only put 3.9 quarts, so I guess they didn't use the bigger filter.
    Would they be having the bigger filter - if so, i could go in and have them replace the filter with the bigger one?

    Thanks.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Well, not to be rude, but thats why you shouldn't get your oil changed at a Jiffy Lube. Especially on a Passat which has special requirements for oil and oil filter. Just curious: How much did you spend for the oil change?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Chances are, Jiffy Lube won't have the correct oil filter. Your best bet is to purchase the filter at the dealer. The VW OEM filters are better constructed, and designed to work with your engine's operating requirements (such as regulating the engine oil pressure, etc.), areas in which most aftermarket oil filters are deficient in.

    Is your engine still under warranty?

    What grade of Pennzoil synthetic was used? And is it on the VW 502.00 spec approved list of oils? And did you have the oil changed at 5000 mile intervals? Most importantly, do you keep the receipts from your oil change? These are questions that VWoA or your dealer will ask you in the event you need to submit a warranty claim. Answering no to one or all of the above questions will give them justification to void the warranty and deny your claim.
  • jbookoutjbookout Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Passat TDI which had the "TV12" recall done some 2 years ago. I believe this recall replaces the ECM and intake manifold and possibly other things. My problem is that since the recall was done, the car shows a marked decrease in power after 30 - 40 miles of highway driving. Shutting the car off and immediately restarting it solves the problem (Microsoft made the ECM?). The dealer just keeps throwing parts at it (mass airflow, vacuum hoses, etc..) while I keep asking the same stupid question: replace the ECM and see if that fixes it since this seems like an computer issue such as boost management or something like that. Thanks for the help.

    Jimmy
  • arshad1arshad1 Posts: 1
    Hi I am considering buying a 97 Volks. Passat GLX automatic.

    1)The problem with the transmission is that there is a slight delay when shifting from 1st to second.

    2)Does that mean the transmission is going to give me trouble or will I be able to live with it.

    3)Also will i be able to side step the problem by simply shifting gears manually from first to second and then to drive. The car only has 110K miles on it.

    4)Does anyone know the cost of rebuilding the transmission

    Hope someone can help me out.
    Thanx.
    Arshad.
  • gagricegagrice Pahrump, NevadaPosts: 31,439
    I hope you did a thorough pricing on this car. In the condition you describe it would not be worth more than $3500 retail. I would figure at least $1500 for a transmission rebuild. If the rest is straight with the body and all it may be worth the chance. Who knows the transmission may last another 50k miles..

    Good luck and welcome to the forum.
  • jaw1jaw1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Passat GLX V6 and about a month ago, I started getting warning signals from my dash saying ABS, Brake, Stop, Brake Fauld, Service Manual. I took it to a Brake Shop and they said the problem was due to my master cylinder was low on fluid because the rear brakes needed to be replaced. They replaced my rear brakes, but all those anoying lights on my dash are still flashing.Evidently replacing the rear brakes didn't have anything to do with my problem. Any suggestions?
  • Same fault - 2000 Passat 1.8T - 81000

    No help from VW
    Fault is in computer board attached to the ABS pump.
    Found re-built ( board replaced) part on-line $450
    Had difficulty finding service tech who would both 1) work on VW and 2) use replacement part which I purchased rather than purchased through the tech.

    Eventually was able to get work performed for $250.
  • Anyone have any luck getting VW to own up to the window regulator problem? It is not my only problem with my Passat just the most recent of a long expensive list.

    I experienced the same problem. 2000 Passat 1.8T 82000miles - Front Right window dropped into door.

    Repair tech found the plastic guide/bracket that holds the window and rides in the track broken. He also found that the window was likely installed incorrectly by the OEM as the rubber isolator where the window should sit was squished down into the support bracket. Although he did not think that contributed to the failed plastic part.

    I spoke to local VW service found that VW carried an extended warranty covering this issue on multiple other vehicles but not the Passat. I have also found multiple instances reporting this same issue on the WEB after only looking for 1/2 hour.

    The Jetta was the one I found most often all the way back to late 1990's. From what I could find the fix for future models on the Jetta was to replace the plastic with a metal part. I cannot help but wonder why a 2000 Passat ( and later models) has a plastic part for the same device.

    I have filed a complaint with NHTSA. I would recommend that anyone else with the same issue file a complaint as well.
  • catecate Posts: 8
    I changed the air intake tube one month ago since the old one was broken. Since then I find when I start the car in the morning, the idle speed would fucturate for 1 or 2 second before it becomes stable. This only happens once everyday, and always in the morning, so I guess it happens on completely cold engine only. I also notice I get a little shaking when I accelerate on highway, and the MPG decreases.
    Somebody suggested I may get leaking in the air intake system. Should I bring it back to the garage? Is it a serious problem?
    Thank you guys.
  • vdubbledvdubbled Posts: 1
    If the idle is hunting it is probably a dirty throttle body. Where the rubber air hose comes up from the driver side front. If you disconnect the hose at the metal part and spray some carb/injector cleaner up on the inside it should take care of it. It is usually where the fuel gets gummed up. The dealer took mine off and cleaned it for a reasonable cost. Gosset VW in Atlanta. Some folks may recommend gas with more detergents or using additives like techron. Lots of cars have this problem. I do hear a lot of the 1.8t's VW's and Audi's doing this. If you look inside you will see where the valve makes contact with the inside of the throttle body. Do this yourself for 5 bucks and if it remains, go to another vw dealer or a better mechanic. I believe that this would be your problem if you can hold your foot on the gas and hold 1200 rpm. You may see it more pronounced when you turn on the AC.
  • chloe7chloe7 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Passat (1.8T) with 45,000. Recently the "check engine light" came on, along with the message "emission workshop." I had Autozone do the OBD; fault code for this problem is P0701, system too lean, bank 1. Car is actually running fine, but I know I need to figure out why I've got the check engine light on, with a 'system too lean' fault code. It's my first time to the forum -- am a woman trying to learn more about diagnosing and maintaining my Passat, as I plan to keep it a long time. Any ideas or recommendations on figuring out the cause of this fault code problem are greatly appreciated.
  • passatonerpassatoner Posts: 14
    Paid about $55..and realized the dealer would charge in about the same range..
  • passatonerpassatoner Posts: 14
    I guess I will go to the dealer from next time onwards..
    Any other oil change place that may work better, given the dealer's wait-time and price..

    Also, My car is coming close to 40K..I realized 40K is a big service and the dealer seems to charge about $650 or so..Is it worth going to the dealer given the price? or any alternatives? Also, my 4-year standard warranty is close to expiring (in November) as well..I'm inclined to go to the dealer for peace of mind..but given the price factor I'm wondering if I should find an alternative? Any advice??
    Thanks.
  • eman2eman2 Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 :lemon: passat and the window dropped down into the door. I have no idea how to get the door panel off so if you find out how to do so could you relay the information to me? thanks a million. :)
  • unfortunately, i am stuck with a 2001 passat GLX 4 motion with 80K on the ticker. I have owned the car for two years and 40K on the engine. where do I start? Cracked gear shift knob (despite garage), rear window armature disabled three times, and broken antenna (dealer wants $700 to R/R). Yesterday, the, tiptronic failed to engage and I have dealt with constant oil leaks despite changing the timing belt and the "pillow" gasket between the oil cooler and the engine. the door window switch is erratic and every morning there is a pool of oil on the garage floor.
    the car has a high pitch squeel every morning and the car eats headlight bulbs like nothing. i thought it was my imagination but too much is too much. am i alone in this boat or do i have some buddies out there?
    miserable in sf, ca :( :( :cry: :sick:
  • rob_passatrob_passat Posts: 13
    Eating headlights might be due to an alternator that is putting out too much voltage. Oil leaks happen - I spent $1500 on my Altima trying to fix an oil leak. It seemed unsuccessful at first but it turned out they did fix it. A high pitched squeal sounds like a belt or a bearing. Hopefully you check the oil often enough with the leak. It would be a shame to end up with a bad engine bearing due to low oil pressure.

    You seem to have quite a few annoying defects. That is bad luck but statistically not out of line for any model car that I have owned over the years.
  • vw2001vw2001 Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 2001 passat.
    It was caused by ABS unit gone bad. They fixed it for ~$1500 and was covered by extended warranty.
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