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Comments
Any thoughts out there?
I put Kumho tires on my Acura Legend, replacing Michelin MXV tires. They handled well (better than Michelins, not as well as the Dunlops I once had) and got acceptable mileage (wore out faster than Michelins but not as fast as the Dunlops). Exceptional value - they cost less than 1/2 of the Michelins.
Tirerack is an indispensible site to compare tires, even if you buy elsewhere.
The Kumhos were only $240 for 4 tires complete, installed!! I was going to get Falkens based on CR ratings, but after reading some of the long term experiences with Falkens on these Forums, I decided to do some more research on Tire Rack. The Kumhos seem to be a real value!!
How were the electrodes? If they were visibly similar to the others you replaced, you should be able to cross off both ring and valve seal issues.
The rule of thumb tests on rings are smoking while driving/accelerating; on valve seals, smoking on deceleration or just off idle. The rationale here is that oil is "pushed" past bad rings by compression, and "sucked" past bad seals by vacuum at idle or deceleration.
If all your plug electrodes looked reasonably similar, and all not oily, I'd start looking for an external oil loss of some type,.
hth.
I read this survey about 3rd party warranty companies (see link below) which suggests Warrantly Direct to be one of the best/reliable..also warranty offered by dealer could be comparatively very high due to dealer markups..I'll find out how much the dealer charges for a comparable warranty.
http://www.safecarguide.com/gui/war/warrantysurvey.htm
If you are still covered by the warranty, and you've had the timing belt checked in the past per the scheduled maintenance, then you could probably let it go.
BUT...even if VW pays for the repair (should it break between now and the end of your warranty), you'll still be without a car for at least a week, maybe two or more, depending on parts availability and your dealership's work backlog. Is that worth your time and aggravation?
If you are out of warranty (second owner), I'd replace the timing belt for sure. It's exposed and despite VW's scheduled replacement at 105,000 miles, there's been more than a few that have broken well before that time. The Passat has an interference engine - timing belt breaks and you pancake a bunch of valves. Expensive and time-consuming. I'd probably replace the water pump and TB tensioner, as well.
If you plan to seel the car soon, well...then it's up to you. Minimize your costs and get out. If you plan to keep it a long time, why screw around?
Whatever you do, make sure that they use VW spec. coolant for the radiator replacement work.
1. No AM reception whatsoever - new unit ordered.
2. Hard downshifts into 1st gear - solved by reprogramming electronic transmission.
3. Discolored chrome trim piece around driver's side rear quarter window - replacement part ordered.
Other than above, car has performed very well and been a pleasure to drive. Definitely in need of more low end torque, however.
They checked all known causes for engine light indicators, and found nothing amiss. A friend with a diagmostic machine (he did the first test) came up with the same results. Neither charged me for the test because there was nothing to fix. Both seemed to think that I may have gotten some bad fuel (weaker than posted) at one time.
One suggested that I add a bottle of octane booster which they provided for free. The light hasn't come back on yet, but I've only driven about 20 miles since the light was reset. The other two times it took about 170 miles or so miles before the light returned. The car has absolutely no performance issues. Has anyone else experienced this in a VW or any car for that matter?
thebug...
thebug...
I am actually quite disappointed that we will never be getting a new VW, as the dealer we purchased from were saints, and even though they are now 1 hr away we would have gladly purchased there again.. too bad they don't sell Lexus' - I would be back there in a heartbeat!
I clipped this from other forums:
P1136 desription is Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel, Bank 1 System too Lean. The first thing is to replace vacuum hoses, including any of the formed ones with cracks. The formed one I replaced is at the back of the intake manifold, about 1/2 inch in diameter and goes from 1 to 2 in a tight Y. A hose clamp was running against it and wore a hole in it. I think another one is L shaped. You need to twist a bit to see cracks.
And another exchange:
17544 P1136 Long Term Fuel Trim Add. Fuel,Bank1 System too Lean
You have a vacuum leak. The original poster then wrote back:
THOSE DARN VACUUM LINES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That was it!! I had a free couple of hours and my car was starting to act even worse so I brought it to AutoZone again to see if I had any more codes. And they said I not only had the P1136 code I had codes but that all 4 cylinders were miss-fireing but needless to say I started to poke around the engine. When I moved the vacuum lines I heard a strong air suction sound.
It was the (thick) elbow that connected the vacuum lines to the rear of the intake manifold. There was a ¼ inch hole in this totally rotten elbow. I’ve been poking around this board for the better part of the 1 ½ years and already replaced most of the smaller hoses (the fuel regulator, the bypass valve etc) but haven’t heard of problems with the other lines. Needless to say I will be looking into the other lines this weekend to make sure none of the other lines are rotten..
Once again: THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!!
That's where I would start.
thebug...
I am new to both diesel and the Passat, though I have been driving for 30 years. I used to change my own oil but for the last 15 years just get oil changes from my mechanic or a quick lube place.
The Passat takes high-end synthetic oil, and I don't trust any fast lube place to do it. The dealer will be expensive, and they always find something else to spend your money on, it seems.
From these forums I've seen mention of the Pela oil extractor. Seems like a good technique. Here's a few questions:
1) Which model should I get - the 6 liter or the 6.5?
2) Can I change the filter from the top? How is a TDI filter different than the canister type I've known for 30 years?
3) What brand oil should I use? Where do you recommend buying the filter?
4) How do you dispose of used oil?
5) I may want to use it also on my wife's 2001 Saab 9-5 Aero. Anyone know the details on changing the filter on that?
Thanks!!
For the above problem one of the mechanic suggested that I replace the battery for the car. I don't think this would be the solution as the very next moment things function. But still if I need to which battery is the best for this model.
When I switch off the car sometimes there is some fan in the hood that keeps on running for a few minutes sometimes before stopping.
I'm going back to Japanese cars as soon as I can afford it!
Remind me when rotors and pads should be changed in the normal world?
VW's filters are reputedly high in quality. You can always buy online or from your dealer.
Dunno about changing the filter from the top. On the gas 1.8T, you can remove the air intake hose from the intake manifold and get lots of room to work from top side. Ideally, this is what you want, or gettting the extractor begins to not make sense (if you need to go underneath the car to get the oil filter, you might as well just drain the oil from underneath, too).
Regarding the capacity of the Pela, I guess I'd match up to whatever the oil capacity fo the engine is (check the owner's manual for that).
Properly disposing of old oil is important. Most auto parts stores like Pep Boys, Auto Zone, and Advance recycle used oil. I just re-use old washer fluid jugs to carry it back.
Good luck.
Today, I tried to start my car and it wouldn't start. After about 3 attempts, it started then would stall. This happened about 2 more times and finally the car started. All seemed well. until I was on my way home from a Golf outing and my engine light (MIL) came on. It isn't blinking (yet), but it is always on. I restarted my car and the light still stays on. What could this be? The car seems to be running ok, maybe a little less power, but that may just be my imagination. BTW: I just turned 18,000 miles........anyone guess where I'm going Monday morning???
Is it ok to drive my car to the dealer or should I get it towed?
It could be as stupid as not closing the fuel tank tighly.
Krzys
Have I been bamboozled? Yep, and I'm kicking myself, but when it's 108 degrees you gotta have your AC.
Thanks
I took the car to my dealer and complained of a little "wobbling" while breaking. They called back saying the rotors were warped and asked if I wanted them replaced as it was out of warranty ($304). I accepted but then called VW and the advocate said that she thought it should be in warranty if it was not attributable to my lack of maintenance (the pads were not worn out). I am wondering if they are now going to claim that I have applied "unequal" torque.
I appreciate the information but this is very unsettling if the rotors are so weak that wheel bolt tension warps them (I change my own tires and I don't own a torque wrench)....makes me a bit scared of the car I chose for its excellent safety rating.
Do you think this excuse is real or something they made up to evade warranty responsibility?
I have not heard back from my "advocate" who was contacting the dealer to try to resolve the issue.
This all saddens me greatly. I love my Passat and am forever arguing with my wife about how much nicer a car it is than her Honda. I hate its buzzy jerky ride but she is going to make a lot of hay out of the reliability argument, especially if VW considers
rotor warp to be "normal wear and tear" at 31k miles.
Any advice on the best way to apply pressure to the dealer and/or the advocate to be one of the people who gets this covered by warranty (seems some have and some have not).
Thanks,
I read the 112 point inspection thing that is in vw web page and my car was lacking these starting from the least important (unfortunately I read this after I bought the car... Also these forums.... :mad: ):
1- It should come with all sets of keys: They gave me just the remote key. I went there and told them I need all the keys, they did a vallet key and gave it to me for free.
2- It should have the vehicle maintanence records: It does not have anything and they did not give me anything.
3- The wiper blades shouldn't have excessive wear: The were not cleaning at all. They changed it for free.
4- It should have the users manual: It did not have it. I had to go there and get it.
5- The floor mats should be clean: It did not have rear floor mats. They told me that this model did not come with one??? (yeah, right)
6- It should be checked for wind noise: My window whistles when I go >60mph. They won't fix it. They say it is normal and it is not covered under CPO warranty. (It is ok not to have this covered but it shouldn't have it in the first place)
7- It should be checked for rattling noise: It had sonds coming from both of the front tires. They were different in nature. The one coming from the front right tire turned out to be coming because non-vw pads were there. They replaced them with VW ones for free (How come they did not check it when certifying it?). The noise coming from the front left tire is because the engine mount is loose. They won't fix it for free and they want $650. Again, it is not covered under warranty. But they don't care about the statement in the vw webpage about "the car should be checked for squeaks/rattles".
I had to spend time to get some of the things they promised me by selling a CPO and after spending so much tme I still don't have some others... And one more thing... I had a problem about the transmission and took the car to the dealer. They said it is a computer code problem and they fixed it. Check engine light came on after a week and I took the car in. They said the transmission is dead. They will replace it for free but I hav to rent a car and pay it out of my pocket. The weird thing is that the reason for the transmission to die is because it did not have enough fluid. How come they did not check this a week ago when I took the car because of a transmission problem???
I really don't trust the dealer. I called VW customer support. I will try to get this resolved through them. Will let you know what happened. I am in San Jose CA. Do yoo know about the laws here? Can I return the car for example? It has been 1 month... I don't know what to do actually. If the customer service helps me with my problems, I will feel good. Apart from those problems, I love the car. It is really great...
We'll see what happens with the customer support...
I'd call your advocate again and say, "Haven't heard from you what's the story?" People have gotten warped rotors covered under the warranty. Some dealers have mentioned that VW got some bad rotors. Who knows the real story? I'd call the VWoA again and see what that does.
basically, i believe you paid a premium for a warranty. your vehicle, as you discovered was not inspected or re-conditioned any more than the other used vehicles sold there.
it does seem to be a scam doesn't it?
you need to be on top of them and get everything you are entitled to based on the warranty you paid that premium for.
good luck.
Mine is a 2003 and the problem is still there. Dealer says I should think of rotors as disposable (with pads). Actually the rotor is going much faster than the pad. Never towed, never loaded more then 3 adults, never anywhere close to max weight load and zero mountain driving (learned that lesson in the Sierra with a Honda and a long steep grade).
This car has been driven so softly I simply cannot believe a reasonable rotor would warp.
Thanks,
Krzys
1. Very loud wind noise at speeds over 45 mph. The faster you go, the louder it gets and it's very loud. Sounds like a whole somewhere right in front of the driver.
2. Rear view mirror broke. We have 2 drivers sharing the car so we have to adjust rear-view mirror frequently. First, the plastic cover around the window mount broke appart into two halves. I snapped it back couple of times, but it keeps falling appart. Then, the mirror simply fell of the mount and hung on two wires!!! What the @#$%?
3. High-pitch whistling from air vents. Various combinations of dash vents opened/closed result in very high frequency whistling. This can typically be fixed by adjusting the vent to the left of the driver. But then it comes back the next day and we have to adjust the vent again. Annoying, but not nearly as bad as the previous two issues.
This is my first German car after buying Honda and Acura products exclusively. I've NEVER EVERhad these many problems, two of them being severe problems.
Did you find a solution to your vapor-lock type problem? I have the exact same problem with a 1997 Passat GLX V6 with 97,000 miles.
Drives fine most of the time, but sometimes when the weather is hot, the car is hot, and I take a 10 minute shopping stop, it is very hard to start the car again.
I crank the engine, it revs up for 1 second, then dies. I repeat many times, sometimes I have to "catch" the engine with the clutch and give full gas to sort of "jump it". As soon as I get it going, it is totally fine again.
One last weird thing is that at the same time of the engine problem, the wipers (front and rear) typically wipe slowly about a third of a stroke and stop in mid stroke. This happens very seldom, but sometimes even without the engine problem.
Volkswagon has had the car in twice, including a full 90,000 mile service, but cannot replicate the problem. This is the same as with my front right window that has been working on and off since I bought the car new in 1997. Come to think of it, that also only happens in very hot weather - maybe a connection?
Lastly, my cruise control just stopped working - could be totally unrelated.
Volkswagon says that maybe we just "start replacing parts". That sounds pretty expensive and stupid to me!
But I love my car
Hans
Did you remove the old strip? Is it just a plastic cover that peels off? That is what it looks like.
Thanks
The oil light on my car is NOT on, and 3/4 of the oil changes I have had done were paid for in cash.
Anybody out there with the same problem that has come up with a solution! Please!
Thanks
What type of oil have you been using at what intervals?
Check your owner's manual. Mine outlines what else will cause it to reset - total hours driven, miles elapsed, etc. I don't have myine handy, but I recall that there was a section on this very topic.
Hot starting - When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced? If the fuel filter is good, the next logical step is to have the fuel pump tested.
Wipers - The first thing I would check is the wiper relay (which is a cubical 1"x1"x1" plug-in module) normally located in the area under the dashboard on the driver's side.
Cruise control - There are two small electro/vacuum operated switches - one in back of the brake pedal that turns off the cruise control when you depress the brake, and on in front of the gas pedal control arm (above the gas pedal) that controls the actual speed. My guess that it is the latter. The part is a simple $20 part, but it is a pain to replace.
I would find a private mechanic to do the work (who either specializes in VWs, European or German Automobiles) and save yourself some money on the outrageous labor charges at the dealer
Has the dealer pulled the codes from the OBD II? Did they find anything there?
I've got no advice on the wipers or cruise control.
The thermostat went bad about a month ago, and it over-heated pretty good, lost several gallons of coolant as it boiled over.
I took it to a local VW specialist, they insisted it was a blown head-gasket based on a very black-and-white block test. Took it to dealer since it is under 100,000 mile warranty. Dealer replaced thermostat - for $400 ! - and performed a $500 90,000 mile service.
After this I have had the car to the dealer twice to get the hot engine issue looked at. I think the wipers were acting up before that repair, but that the engine stalling has only happened after the repair.
A faulty coolant temperature sensor sounds interesting, and maybe even likely since the thermostat blew. Is that the sensor in the whitish plastic canister where coolant is added? What is the reason this would create this hot starting problem, like is the fuel mixture adjusted?
I am not sure what codes the dealer pulled. I am torn between loving VW cars and hating VW service. Sounds like I should try the local guy again, although I lost a little faith with the blown head gasket diag. If I hadn't had warranty on the car, my engine would have been torn down because of wrong diagnostic
Anyway, THANKS A TON FOR YOUR ADVISE!!!!
Hans