Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • audreymaudreym Member Posts: 103
    4yi, I think it has been discussed before -- but I will give you the lowdown (we just had the same problem about 3 months ago and it took the dealer 4 visits to hunt it down).. They replaced the brake fluid reservoir! :lemon:

    Unfortunately this problem does not record a fault in the computer so they tried to tell me 3 times in a row that the car was fine. It wasn't until a different mechanic at the dealer happened to overhear me complaining that I did not feel safe driving in a car that was displaying BRAKE FAULT messages.. It has been a few months now and we haven't had the problem again.
  • gingerpanthergingerpanther Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for all your assistance, sometimes one has to know when to admit defeat and move on. According to all the independent car reviews here in the UK, the new Mazda 6 wins hands down. Fingers X eh.

    Thanks again.
  • gingerpanthergingerpanther Member Posts: 8
    Just a suggestion, but if water damage is suspected it may be prudent to check under your carpets (front and rear). VW appear to have a long standing issue with water related problems. All the usual suspects are : sunroof, seals, drains, A/C, blocked heater pipes, condenser drains. Good luck!

    Prior to finally giving up on my 2001 Passat I had electronic problems, culminating with the ECU beyond repair due to water damage.

    I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but hope this may be of some help.
  • sharp4sharp4 Member Posts: 3
    My 2001 Passat V6 wagon timing belt stopped me cold on the route to Mt. Baker. Car has 60K miles. I bought car used with 35K miles on it from dealer in Dec. 03 and have kept up with all scheduled maintenance. The manual recommends timing belt replacement at 105K miles. The VW dealer where the car was towed [not one where it was bought] tells me that when the water pump was replaced recently, my local mechanic over- tightened a bolt and that caused the belt failure. Is this possible?
    I have now read about water pumps/timing belts being a weak point in the Passat.
    Also, they tell me a used engine replacement will be $6300 and a new one $9300. this doesn't seem to gel with chat room messages that quote lower prices.
    Of course my warranty for this used car is long gone now. Thanks for your help.
  • 4yi4yi Member Posts: 5
    thank you so much for your info. I will definitely ask them to look into it. which dealer did you go to? I am in philly. where are you?
  • audreymaudreym Member Posts: 103
    4yi, I am in the Pottstown area. If they are accessable to you, I would highly recommend Wynn, in Oaks PA. (Not too far from the Mid-County exchange of the turnpike.)

    The other place that I would trust in general is North Penn VW, they are near Montgomeryville. I do not know for a fact if they have seen this repair or not, but we were generally very pleased with their dealership. It's too bad that we live too far away from them now. I would purchase from them again in a heart beat -- if they sold Lexus :P

    Please let me know if you would like more info, I would be glad to look up the name of the person who did the repair at Wynn - apparently he was the only one who knew what to look for.
  • spursspurs Member Posts: 1
    Did you get anywhere with this issue? I have exactly the same problem with my used 2001 VW Passat 1.8T, 4cyl - I have changes the spark-plugs, oil etc. had a compression test done, put good gas in etc. - no joy whatsoever.

    I have been advised to change the leads and/or the oxygen sensor - no one seems to have a clue
  • sam41sam41 Member Posts: 2
    HI,
    I have 2000 V6 Passat. I have similar problem.

    17831 P1423 Sec.Air Inj.Sys.,Bank1 Flow too Low

    Most of the forums are pointing to green vacuum line. Will you please inform me where to look for the vacuum line. Should I have to remove the top plastic cover?

    Thanks.

    Best Regards.
  • jds98jds98 Member Posts: 2
    Boy, this sounds so familiar. Our timing belt broke, or whatever they do, on the freeway and the car came to a sudden stop. We were lucky there was no traffic and we were able to limp to the shoulder. Of course it destroyed the motor and we had to replace it with a used one for about $8,000.

    The VW dealer had just replaced the water pump maybe a couple of weeks before this happened. Of course they claimed there was no connection between the two events, but I always wondered.
  • jds98jds98 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, my radio plays ok for maybe 5 or 10 minutes and then begins to static. It gets worse and worse, but if I change stations sometimes there will be one that sounds a little better. This is FM. On AM it is much worse...just a blast of static with little or no regular sound.

    I had a shop look at it and they thought it was the antenna cable or something, not really sure. Anyhow, do you have any suggestions on how to confirm and then how to fix.

    Thanx.
  • greedo75greedo75 Member Posts: 1
    This is interesting! I just took my 99 Passat GLX to the dealer yesterday to find out what was wrong with it. I had a crazy rattling noice coming out of the pully/belt area in the front of the engine for a couple of days. On my way there yesterday my temp gauge went from 190 (normal) to 260 after 1.5 miles of driving. I shut the car off and waited 5 minutes while looking under the hood. Checked the temp again and it was normal.

    Later that day.....the dealer called, the water pump locked up. $735 to to replace, however, they also installed a new timing belt without any additonal labor cost because it is basically the same procedure. Having the timing belt done separately would cost another $700. Sounds like your problems may be related!
  • kajkaj Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 model VW Passat 1.8 20valve...it has stopped blowing hot air when the blower is switched on. I can only get luke warm air through the vents with the blower at very low levels. A local mechanic reckons the heater matrix is clogged up and needs replacement. Does anyone have any idea how difficult it is to replace it and if so how do i replace it...?

    I need to get it fixed very quick as my wife is pregnant and the cold weather is approaching soon.
  • sharp4sharp4 Member Posts: 3
    jds98 Thanks for your support. I had my water pump replaced locally because I wasn't sure what was wrong and didn't want to drive an hr. to the dealer. Now, VW dealer says local person overtightened a bolt on the pump, which then broke, causing the belt to SLIP OFF [not break] causing the damage. Naturally local person denies over-tighten and even the dealer says there's no way to prove it. So no one's responsible of course. but I will have the broken bolt as a $6300 souvenir.
  • sharp4sharp4 Member Posts: 3
    All I can say is get the timing belt replaced anyway. timing belt failure seems related to the water pump and if that belt goes it totals the engine -- minimum $6,000 for a used replacement. See messages re timing belts at about message 1340 [Sept. 14, 2005 by sharp4]
  • hnechnec Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find out what was causing all of the dashboard lights to come on. I have a '99 Passat and I am having the same issue - - the mechanic can not figure out the cause. I did read another article that talked about a faulty brake fluid reservoir setting off the ABS light and not registering a fault in the computer. I may suggest that the mechanic waste more of my money looking into this.

    Any information would be great. Thanks!
  • hnechnec Member Posts: 2
    I have a '99 Passat and the ABS, ASR, and Brake Lights warning warning lights came on and have not gone off - - the mechanic can not figure out the cause. I did read another article that talked about a faulty brake fluid reservoir setting off the ABS light and not registering a fault in the computer. I may suggest that the mechanic waste more of my money looking into this.

    Any information would be great. Thanks!
  • hanslundhanslund Member Posts: 3
    Thanks to all for giving advise on this on. I finally got to the root of the problem:

    The ignition switch caused both the hot engine problem and the windshild wiper problem :)

    Now I just have to find out why my floors are soaked after it rains - I have heard drains from sunroof, drain from battery bracket, heat exchanger box, others?

    You gotta love German Engineering ;)

    Hans
  • sam41sam41 Member Posts: 2
    Are you talking about P 1423 error code? If so I have solved the problem.....
  • seaviewseaview Member Posts: 1
    Is there a way to drain the fuel tank on the Passat 2005 TDI? I think I have bad fuel and have tried to drain the tank by syphoning through the fuel filler with no luck. I am guessing the fuel tank is pressurized and thus will not syphon. Is there a drain plug somewhere that I can open to drain the fuel? Thanks, Seaview.
  • troverstrovers Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know what this code means? I erase the code, but the engine light comes on one day later. The VW dealer charged me a bunch of $$ to try to fix it.Over the 5 years owning my Passat, the engine light has been on more than not! Please help!
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    This is just a guess, but I highly doubt there is a drain plug on the fuel tank.
  • 4yi4yi Member Posts: 5
    It will be great if you can give me the name of the mechanics. My husband is talking to our mechanics and he was going to ask around and get us the quote on the job. I won't mind the distance if they can fix it, instead of us keep taking it into the shop and guessing for the rest of our lives :cry:

    By the way, I want to thank you again for all your help. and hopefully, I have the same problem you had :)
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    P1137 = Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel, Bank1 System too Rich

    From another forum, the following were reported to be in the Bentley manual for your car:

    - Check fuel pressure regulator and residual pressure.

    - Check oxygen sensor and oxygen sensor control before catalyst

    - Check injection valves, Checking fuel injection quantity and proper seal

    - Check Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve

    But the first thing I would check is to make sure that the vacuum lines have maintained their integrity and are not leaking. THe vacuum hoses in the Passat are pretty notorious for giving it up and leaking. Check them visually and also listen for air leakage.
  • brontbront Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyones.

    Here's the problem I noticed yesterday on my Passat GL 1.8T '03 yesterday.

    1. Daytime running lights (light bulbs above halogen high beam) did NOT turn on when I started the engine and released handbrake.
    2. However, as I turned headlight switch on, the the same light bulbs did come off (low beam lighting?) but it was so weak that I could barely see the road in front of me (I actually thought it was off).
    3. Highbeam works fine.

    All light bulbs and fuses all look OK. I am kind of puzzled to figure out what's going on. Is daytime running light and low beam serviced by same light bulbs, or there are dedicated bulbs respectively for DRL and nightt :confuse: ime driving? The guy at service department told me it is the same bulb and it is just an intensity at which those bulbs are lit for for these two modes respectively. Is it correct?
    Anyway, did anyone experience similar problem? What is possibly at fault?

    I would appreciate if somebody expalins me what kind of issue is this and how to fix it.
    Thanks a lot
  • passat1.8tpassat1.8t Member Posts: 8
    I have an 03 gls 5 spd...as for brakes...I swapped the rotors and pads at 35K miles...still had some pad left...I went with zimmerman rotors and PBR deluxe plus pads ....the braking improved quite a bit...progressive and more powerful...first thing dead cold in the morning or hot from the highway..absolutely church mouse quiet...and here is the bonus...very very very little brake dust.

    The factory pads are ATE's...which are horrible. Many 2001.5-2005 passat owners have experienced pre-mature rotor warpage mostly in their rear rotors, and some front....switching to PBR (formerly known as REPCO) deluxe plus pads has been the universal solution. The fitment is oem...everything lines up including the abs sensor connector.

    At least worth considering when it coming time to swap out pads.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    You wrote: Is daytime running light and low beam serviced by same light bulbs, or there are dedicated bulbs respectively for DRL and nightt ime driving? The guy at service department told me it is the same bulb and it is just an intensity at which those bulbs are lit for for these two modes respectively. Is it correct?

    I have an '03, too. You are confusing DRL lights with what are known as "city lights". DRL's are simply your low beam lights lit at a lower voltage. City lights (what would be parking lights if VW used a three position switch) are the smaller light bulbs you see in the housing. I replaced my headlight switch with a European model in order to have full control over the lighting. I
  • mars4mars4 Member Posts: 3
    I wanted to know if you've resolved your ABS problem, I'm having the same problem. My ABS light, BRAKE FAULT, & STOP lights are going off. I've gone to the dealer and they're saying it's the ABS Sensor System, which of course means many dollars for repairing it. I wanted to get some second opinions. I'd appreciate any help or advice you could give. Thank you.
  • radar2radar2 Member Posts: 5
    I only recently started noticing that the trip computer is not resetting itself after the car has been off after 2-4 hours, or overnight for that matter. I own an '03 1.8t, 5 speed gls. E.g., as soon as I start up in the morning, the trip computer will indicate the car has been running for 3hrs15 mins. This was never an issue until recently. Anyone else have this problem? Aside from this, a number of other probs have surfaced in the two years I've owned this model (replacement of trunk strut in lieu of sticking, treble/bass knobs falling off the Monsoon cd player, an electrical short w/ the ABS indicator, driver side power window hesitant to go down if not depressing the 'auto' down function, blah, blah, :sick: blah). This is my 1st and last german vehicle.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    There are two trip computer views...#1 and #2. #1 will reset after the car has been off for about two hours. #2 does not reset until certain parameters are met (number of hours driven, miles driven, whathaveyou). It sounds like you are now in view #2 (you'll see the tiny number on the coputer readout screen).

    You switch between the two settings by pressing the button on the bottom of the wiper stalk. You can reset #2 by switching to it and them depressing that same button for a few seconds.

    Sorry to hear of the problems with your GLS. I, too, have an '03. Haven't had any of the problems that you mention. It's my third German vehicle...probably not my last.
  • radar2radar2 Member Posts: 5
    thanks for the info...the comment about being the last german vehicle i purchase was a bit extreme considering i was still fuming-the s-line audi a4 is simply amazing!(sorry-off topic) :shades:
  • radar2radar2 Member Posts: 5
    sorry about missing the bold command ;)
  • 4yi4yi Member Posts: 5
    No, not yet. Please read Audreym's reply few days back. As audreym indicated, we are checking the brake fluid reservoir. My husband is talking to our mechanics who is checking with the dealers about it and hopefully, we will get a quote on it. I am also waiting for audreym to get the name of the mechanics who made the suggestion. As soon as I find out something I will post it here. In the mean time, check with your people and see what they think about the brake fluid reservoir.
  • mars4mars4 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you, looking forward to your posted results. I called my Dealer again, he said that it could be about 10 different things that would make that light come on. Of course they quoted the most expensive possibility, the "ABS Module" (I suspect it's the pc chip). Another option I found is this site: http://www.andersonsolutions.ca They repair the ABS Modules, and are much more reasonable than the dealer. However, it'll require you to remove, ship, and then wait for the repaired ABS Module to arrive. They come with a 1 year warranty. I'm seriously considering this option.
  • mars4mars4 Member Posts: 3
    The following email is from the ABS Module repair shop:
    *******************************************************************************
    Hi Mario,

    Thanks for your interest! We are still finalizing the instructions, but I will send them to you first thing next week.

    We cover Express return shipping (1 or 2 days). The repair and testing will also be complete in 1 or 2 business days from the day we receive it. You will have to check with your courier/post office for shipment costs and times to Canada.
    (It is important to only send the module, separate from the hydraulic unit, which is quite heavy and costs more to ship.) The total cost for the repair and return shipping (unfortunately including tax) is $267.49 CAD, or about $228 USD.

    By limited warranty, we mean that our work is guaranteed. We cannot replace or repair modules damaged through abuse or improper use. We have not had any modules returned, but if this did happen we would pay for shipping costs to return the module to us for further testing and repair.

    I hope that answers your questions. I will be in touch Monday to send you those intructions.

    Best regards,

    Andrea
    ASL Sales and Service

    Quoting Mario <>:

    > To whom this may concern:
    >
    > I would like to see the removal instructions of the ABS Module, will you
    > please forward those to me? I'm wondering what the shipment cost would
    > be, including your repair time. What does "limited" warranty mean, and
    > how do you handle a possible returned ABS module. I'd like to
    > recommend this option on an internet form I've been communicating with.
    > The dealer's options and costs are unreasonable.
    >
    > Looking forward to your response.
    >
    > Sincerely,
    > Mario
  • 4yi4yi Member Posts: 5
    Audreym, have you got a chance to find out who did your repair? Just found out from our mechanics that he does not want to touch the car and refers us back to a dealer. So far, we don't care for the dealers here around Philly that's why we went to our mechanics at the first place. I am willing to take it to Wynn/Pottstown. BTW, do you mind telling me what was the quote on the service? If you prefer, please write to me at bluebear.md@verizon.net. Thank you so much.
  • audreymaudreym Member Posts: 103
    4yi, I emailed you at the above address. Good luck!!
  • selmselm Member Posts: 122
    My 2004 Passat 1.8T auto's horn was engaged for about 30 minutes today when it was locked and parked and had been sitting normally for 20 minutes. A co-worker informed me that it was going off and I had a difficult time turning it off. I don't think it turn-off by the remote. In fact, I don't know how it was turned off. It was not the panic alarm feature which has an alternating beep but was a constant annoying stream. Any thoughts anyone? The car only has 10K miles and will be in on Thursday, so I would like to be able to point VW in the right direction.
  • jerps123jerps123 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased the 2006 Passat Value Edition. The glovebox is already wired for a 6 disc cd changer. It will cost $500 from the dealership - yuk! Does anyone know what brand/model will fit in the glovebox? I would really like to go that route rather than installing it in the trunk. Thanks.
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    you're in san jose? check with the DA
  • naylornaylor Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2006 Passat. The front windshield has what I would describe as "vertical waves" in it. (To see what I am talking about best, open the drivers door and bend down and look at through the front windshield at an angle) These waves distort whatever is on the other side. My dealer says that most of the new windows on Passats have this. They only had 1 other one, and it has the same thing. Has anyone else seen this? I would like to know if this is true.
  • 99passat99passat Member Posts: 1
    Will an engine from a 99 passat manual transmission; fit in a 99 passat with an automatic transmission? Thank you for you reply. It's 4 cyl. 1.8 turbo, engine code AEB.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    is very likely the same but I am not sure how transmission bolts to the engine.
    If it is integrated (I doubt it) then there is a problem

    Krzys
  • cobenacobena Member Posts: 4
    I used to have a 2003 Toyota Corolla which used to do this; I later on found out all of them did it so I believe it might have something to do with probably advances in windshield technology...
  • tamarastertamaraster Member Posts: 107
    Is it normal that with about 23K miles on my 2003 Passat wagon, it should require a $350 brake job? The brakes are down to 3/32 according to the dealer. They seem to be working fine. I'm kind of a car ignoramus.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Depends how you drive and where you live really, regarding brake pad life. Also the type of pads they put on the car at the factory. If you're in San Francisco type country or Colorado, sure you might eat up brakes that fast (or faster) but if you are a slow driver in Kansas, that sounds a bit premature.

    Short answer: Might not be a sign of anything wrong, no.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Is this for the rear brakes, front brakes or both?

    If you search here and other forums, you'll soon realize that the rear brakes are prone to wearing out before the fronts, in many cases. And 23,000 miles is not unheard of as mileage for the rears. My rears needed done at 25,000 miles on my 2003 wagon - DIY and it will cost about $80 in parts (quality after-market ordered online - Ate rotors and PBR pads). Dealer supplied pads and rotors are pretty costly. Seeing your final comment, you might want to check around for a better price with an independent garage - don't let them cut the rotors, though, just replace 'em. They're prone to warping if you cut them.
  • ish2ish2 Member Posts: 1
    PLEASE, I don't mean the light dark or white stuff many experience . I mean like a tank laying a SMOKE SCREEN It was heavy enough to be difficult to see through.. It's an early 05 Passat sedan with triptronic , no mods ,and 8,000miles., aver abt 32 mpg.. It happened when pulling steep scenic grade , it had shifted down to 2nd gear. Right along I have felt it down shifts to frequently)Unfortunately no engine warning light went on. that means it didn't register and the VW techs ( those that read a computer printout and replace the suggested part- too bad we don't have the old time garage mechanics anymore) can find nothing wrong. Previously I thought I noticed some soot on the fender near the exhaust, unfortunately I washed it off.. I would appreciate any comments from the group. It's now hard to trust it on a long trip. Thanks Ish/ Hal
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    If you're going to replace the rotors, I would forget about the OEM rotors and get the Zimmerman vented/cross-drilled front rotors and vented rear rotors. Your car's braking will improve significantly (especially in wet weather), and best of all, no more worries about warped rotors. I have a set on my Jetta, and it was the best investment I made. :shades:
  • dmillardmillar Member Posts: 2
    My G60 synchro user group has covered this question before with expressions like "it took a full 8 hours to do" and "go buy a brand new heater core, because for all the work it takes to change it, you'll cry if you have to do it twice". Most heater cores are buried deep in the dash, and by the time you are done, you may as well have replaced the dash speakers, the radio, and anything else you had been pondering upgrading.... :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah, one of those "while you're in there" jobs---I'm going through the same thing with my car...you don't know when to stop.
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