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  • parman sorry to reply so late- I live in the Boston area(Quincy) and have driven all kinds of trucks both 4 & 2 wheel drive. Trust me you do not want to drive a 2wd truck in winter conditions any more than you have to. Especially if your children will ever be part of the cargo. Go with a 4x4 you will get your money back if you ever sell it. As far as the limited slip rear differential/while I can't explain exactly how it works, I can tell you that it does. Take it from me- I didn't get it on my'01 lariat screw and it is the only mistake that I feel I have made in the purchase of my truck. It is an inexpensive option and I found myself putting the truck in 4x4 in what appeared to be light snow conditions. There were times when I felt that if I had the ltd.slip I would not have had to use 4x4. Do your homework and good luck, I will answer any other questions you have. Here is what I bought: Bright red S-Crew 4x4 Lariat,4.6L,parchment leather,cab steps,moon roof,sliding rear window,bed extender,heated seats. p.s. quick synopsis of ltd. slip rear end: transfers power from wheel that is slipping to the other giving added traction.
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380

    altho i can't entirely explain how limited slip works, it is beneficial in that clutch packs in the rearend help deliver power to the wheel that isn't slipping rather than just to the wheel that is spinning. and, yes, ford's limited slip and gm's posi traction are most likely very similar. i've had limited slip axles on a couple vehicles i've owned. limited slip does help in slippery conditions, especially when starting from a complete stop. however, in my experience, in a limited slip vehicle if you gas it too much it'll fishtail quicker than a vehicle without limited slip. so, there is some give and take.
  • rtantonrtanton Posts: 10
    I have an uncle that works for Ford, and he just told me that the X-Plan is an option, but I forgot to ask what the real dollars and cents of it is. If there is anyone out there who has used the X-Plan, what is the deal? 2% below dealer invoice? 3% above dealer invoice? I'm adding up my options on my future SCrew tonight so I want a number to throw in the calculator!

    Thanks to those folks out there who have answered my questions. More to come, please keep up the great answers. From what I read, the limited slip is definitely going to make the list because a 4X4 makes no sense where I'll be living.

  • dvaughndvaughn Posts: 1
    just ordered a super crew need to know if you had any problems yet,paid invoice less $500 rebate any better deals out there? had to go to five different dealers worn out in new Mexico;
  • bwexler1bwexler1 Posts: 6
    If you ordered the class 3 towing pkg., you might want to check your radiator. A lot of people are finding the 1.02" instead of the 1.42" that is suppose to be there. For more info., go to f150online and go to the message board. You won't believe it, trust me.
  • famlydocfamlydoc Posts: 7
    I purchased the Class III towing package on my 2001 Screw Lariat with 5.4 I engine. Indeed I have the 1.02 inch radiator instead of the heavier 1.42 inch one row radiator. I told my service manager about it last week and gave him copies of the discussions going on in the bulletin board about the subject. I expect to hear back this week from him. I am not aware of one owner who has come forward yet to say that they received the heavy duty cooling that is advertised by ford for the class III package. Sounds like class III action lawsuit if we all payed for Heavy Duty Cooling as advertised only to get the same radiator size found in Screws or f150's without class III towing package. Will keep you posted on my experience. Love my Screw but really want to get this radiator issue resolved.
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    how can you tell if you got the right radiator? does measuring it actually work. or is there somewhere on the radaitor that says what size it is supposed to be? thanks...
  • bwexler1bwexler1 Posts: 6
    check your radiator at the cooling fins. If the cooling fins measure 1" and you paid for the class III tow group, you've got the wrong rad.Do not measure the tank (side) just the cooling fin area. Also, there might be a sticker with a part # on it on the side of the tank. If it reads XL3H A
    you got the wrong one. Refer to and go to the message board on the left. You can look in the threads engine or
    supercrew...these are for all f150's from 99-01.I believe V8's only. All of Ford's print and internet info still list the larger rad. as what's incl. in the tow group. Unfortunately that's not what they're installing...
  • mbrimmbrim Posts: 7
    I also have the class III towing package. I measured the radiator and it was about 1". There is a sticker on the side that reads IL3H-19710-AA. However, right in front of that radiator is another one the exact same size. And I'm not talking about the oil and transmission cooling radiators. I'd have to remove the black plastic cover (over the radiators) to get a better look.
  • draytm01draytm01 Posts: 19
    I am renting a F-150 Screw this weekend to haul some mulch and dirt for spring planting and to tow.

    I want to help a friend out by towing his boat to a new ocean slip. I wanted the F150 because I think they have a notch in the bumper to put a 2" tow ball on the bumper. Does anyone know if this is still the case and if so what is the weight limit for the bumper bal moutn? I heard 5k lbs, but just want to double check. Would I better off renting the reg. bed F150? Thanks!
  • famlydocfamlydoc Posts: 7
    In response to mbrim. You will see a Auxiliary tranny cooler, oil cooler and air conditoner cooler
    in addition to your radiator. That part number you quote does not ring a bell.
  • rtantonrtanton Posts: 10
    Who out there has pruchased an extended warranty from Ford? Anyone get one not from Ford? I'd sleep a bit better know that I had a $0 deductable warranty through 6 years/75,000 miles but I don't know what Ford charges and the sites I've found on the internet want about $950 for something like that.

    Anyone have comments?

    One other thing. I'm getting ready to order a 2001 4X2 SCrew XLT. Can I get 17" rims and tires? The Kelley Blue Book list of options says yes after July of last year, but the dealer I talked with today doesn't think so.

    Thanks gentlemen.

  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380

    go to and build a truck and see if you can specify 17 inchers...
  • kbelislekbelisle Posts: 2
    I have a 01 screw lariat with 5K miles. It went into the shop today for the forth time. It pulls to the left. The dealer has replaced a couple of parts (not sure what they were) and aligned it but it still pulls to the left. It is most noticible in the left lane on the freeway. Just wondering it anyone has had this problem and if so what they did to fix it.
  • rtantonrtanton Posts: 10

    I did just that and it forced me to upgrade to one of the special editions (Lariat, etc.). But, it is listed as an option on the 2WD XLT price sheets (option T55) for $275 retail.

    Who knows for sure... Anyone ever contact the factory and ask them directly?

    Thanks again.

  • famlydocfamlydoc Posts: 7
    Thought I would post these radiator parts numbers for those of you still dealing with this issue.
    XL3Z-8500-DA is the 1.02" one row radiator
    YL3Z-8005-GA is the 1.42" one row radiator
    F75Z-8005-GB is the 2.20" two row radiator
    Most guys on the F150 thread are having luck getting the 1.42" put in.
    I'm still waiting to hear the final word from my service manager. He last told me he is waiting on a tech inquiry and to talk with the regional rep. Will post any results I have.
  • mbrimmbrim Posts: 7
    For Famlydoc...I'm having a hard time finding the part number, where is it located on yours?
  • bwexler1bwexler1 Posts: 6
    The radiator part # should be printed on a white tag attached to the side of your radiator.Mine has XL3H AB. This is also the part # for the 1.02" radiator.You don't even need the part #, just measure the cooling fin area. If it's 1" and you paid for the classIII tow group,you can bend over now...
  • grapedoggrapedog Posts: 1
    Has anyone found an aftermarket top for their SCREW yet? I am interested in finding out the price range. I am interested in a CAP to cover the back and not a tonneau cover because of the extra room a cap provides.

    Please post phone numbers or websites of makers/retailers that you have found to be useful.

    Also, what products have you SCREW owners used for bedliners. It seems to me that a spray-on bedliner is a better way to go than a plastic insert. But I have a hard time getting over the fact that they require me to {gasp} sand down the factory paint in a brand new $30,000 truck in order for the spray-on liner to stick well.
  • goodwingoodwin Posts: 24
    have you checked out these 2 site on the web

    on the leer site click on products then new products, there is a picture of a 2001 supercrew with cap on it.
  • bguebertbguebert Posts: 1
    Looking at super crew 4x4 with 5.4. Could any one tell me about gas mileage they get driving around town and on highway. Looking to pay invoice, did anyone get a better
    deal without a ford plan. I have read a lot of good things about truck, besides radiator problems is there any other complaints?
  • sdeleonsdeleon Posts: 4
    I purchased a SuperCrew 4X4 with the 5.4 and am getting around 14-15 mpg. On the highway it seems to be in the upper teens. I paid $500 below invoice and I ordered it the way I wanted it. About bedliners, I had a sprayed-in liner on my last truck and, in my opnion, it's the best thing you can do for the truck bed (it's still expensive). For my SuperCrew, I ordered a rubber mat from - PENDAPAD BED MAT ITEM: XA-51-2677- perfect fit!
  • I have a 2001 SCrew 5.4 2WD. I've only filled the tank 5 times (1262 miles). My worst MPG is 12.7, my best is 13.1. It doesn't seem to matter how hard or easy I drive it. My mileage is about 90-95% city-suburb driving (25-45 mph). I'm often told that it will improve with break-in, but I've kept very accurate records with previous trucks and I don't expect more than 1 MPG improvement.

    Tires are a big influence. I have General Grabber AP tires on mine. I have seen a drop of as much as 3 MPG (on an Explorer 4WD) by changing from the original tires to a more aggressive tread (same tire size).
  • I am still shopping and so far the Screw is leading. My only concern is the amount of posters here who have been opting for the 5.4 instead of the smaller V8. I won't be towing anything heavier than a trailer and lawnmower, if that. Most of my miles will be to the job (less than 10 miles round trip) and the once a year vacation to Gulf Shores or other spot within 500 miles or so. Do I need the 5.4 for this kind of use or can I save the $800 for taxes? Thanks for any input.
  • rtantonrtanton Posts: 10
    I just got a SCrew 5.4 and here is the way I though about it:

    Yes, it does cost more for the initial price.

    The RATED (I haven't had mine long enough to give you a real story on my gas mileage yet) MPG is no more than 2 MPG less than the 4.6.

    I rarely, but occationally have heavy loads in the back of my truck/towing.

    Higher resale with the bigger V8.

    I weighed all these and came up with the choice to get the bigger engine. I would if I were you.

    Well boys, I got my SCrew this past week and I love it. 2001 4x2 SCrew XLT 5.4l, Class III towing package, 3.55 limited slip, powere drivers seat, 6 disc CD, sliding rear window, bed liner and a bed extender for $23,000 on the X-plan. I'm happy. Here is my only concern:

    The damn thing has a cheap dark grey plastic grille. I've been looking at billet aftermarket grilles, or maybe calling the parts department and seeing what a honeycomb would cost.

    Anyone out there using billet products? Reccomendations?

  • hey rtanton.

    I saw on the 150online site that theres a way to buy into the xplan for $40. How do the determine the cost and was your 23k before taxes and reg. I'm looking for a xlt/4x4/5.4/ls/moon/tow/power-heated 60/40 seats/skid/bedxtend/ going e/ stock tires and will replace with a decend set.
  • here's a follow'd you get it for $23k, thats over $3,000 below factory invoice base don the options you have listed, was it mor elike $26K, that would put it around 300 below Fac Inv. Which is more what I've read where it should be....
  • seldomseentoo,

    If you take the MSRP times .875 that will put you real close to X-plan price. X-plan usually works out to dealer invoice less $100-300, depending on price of vehicle. Plus, you are eligible for any factory incentives such as rebates and low financing. The price on x-plan is predetermined and set by Ford, dealer can't screw with you.
  • bluecrewbluecrew Posts: 2
This discussion has been closed.