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  • luckyjackluckyjack Posts: 6
    Now that I'm 'waitin on delivery of my Screw (hopefully late July), I can turn to investigating the two major after-market items I'm interested in: bed liner and bed cover.

    Just a little surfing on internet shows there are a huge number of options, so any comments (pro's and con's of various styles and brands, cost, etc.) from Screw owners on these items most appreciated. Directions to websites would be great if available.

    Only thing I've pretty much ruled out at this point is the one-piece, solid type cover 'cause I want to be able to load large/tall items.

    Thanks in advance.

  • atlanta4atlanta4 Posts: 51
    The truck accessories topic on this site has some good discussion on bedliners & hard -vs- soft bed covers. I've been reading it recently while debating my purchase & it seems most people that use their truck to carry a lot like the spray in bedliner (line-x, rhino) over the drop in plastic type. Seems to make sense when you read the posts but it just gives me pause to think of spraying something that wont come off on a brand new truck. I'd have to see it installed first. As far as bed covers - several posts favored the hinged Berlin soft tonneau cover for around $200-250. Anyway, there was some good info there if you get a chance to check it out.
  • 19491949 Posts: 59
    Ditto to Atlanta4's suggestion....I found some great links to accessory sites from the truck acc. topic.
    Re: Bedliner....I've seen many owners that are down on drop-in liners, who cite such things as slippery surface which creates problems with small loads sliding all over the bed. Another issue is water that somehow sits beneath the liner and causes rust. I, too am apprehensive about having something "sprayed" into a bed. I did notice some new trucks at the dealership with spray-in liners that were very neatly applied by a local vendor. Some owners swear by them, pointing out durability and slip-resistant surface. I guess it just depends on what type of compound is used as to durability. Cost is $300-$400. I'm going to also add billet grill and chrome nerf bars, in place of factory black running boards. Good luck.
  • tkenny53tkenny53 Posts: 41
    Just was quoated, $300 over invoice in Los Angeles, plus 129 for ???. Anybody done better??
  • rsavrsav Posts: 1
    Dealer is offering fully loaded SCREW LARIAT 4x4 with 5.4L V8, moonroof, cabsteps, Heated seats for $30,250. Was wondering does anyone think they will eventually offer 0.9% financing later in the year or early next year. With Dodge coming out with a full 4-dr truck I would think FORD will come down in interest rates and/or rebates so they keep the lead on truck sales as they don't want to lose prospective buyers. Right now they have 1K off and 3.9% for 36 months here in Omaha.
  • lullman1lullman1 Posts: 15 You will find more information about Supercrews (and most other Ford trucks) than you could ever need. Beware, if you put it on your favorites list you will read it daily. Excellant message boards!
  • tom667tom667 Posts: 1
    If you are going to be towing a boat, I would reconsider the bed cover. In order to line up the trailer properly as you are backing down a boat ramp, you need to lower the tail gate and unsnap the cover. It can be a bit time consuming to line up all the snap buttons each time you do that.

    I would also caution against leaving the cover unsnapped for any length of time as the cover can stretch and/or contract in odd places giving you a devil of a time getting it back into proper position.

    I won't go near those on my next truck.
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Posts: 262
    I back a boat into a number of ramps, you haven't backed one until you try it with a SD CC 4x4 with a cap on.
  • jimbob7216jimbob7216 Posts: 15
    I just signed the papers late this afternoon on my Toreador Red/Silver SC/XLT. My question is about the tires that come with the truck. The dealership gave me a good deal, $300 over invoice, less $1,500 rebate, and 5% interest on a 3 yr lease.

    What they would not do is give me any other choice of tire, but did say that for $300 they could have Michelns put on it.

    Are the generals any good? Should I just get the Michelns? What do you think guys? I have to call the dealership by Sunday noon.

  • mikebikemikebike Posts: 2
    I am looking at a 2001 F150 I crew Lariat with the limited slip rear end and towing package

    invoice costs I/ options is 26,477 they will do it for 26,506 (they keep the 500 rebate)

    oh yes ... plus tax....

    it all seems too easy ---------is this a reasonable deal ??

    thanks for your input
  • connonconnon Posts: 52
    I wouldn't touch Michelins , let alone pay an extra $300 for them.Go with the Generals. BTW, my KR Screw came with Goodyears.I just wonder if Firestone will survive this scandal like they did the 500 series recall.I have Firehawks on my 76 Vette and think they are great.
  • jschira1jschira1 Posts: 7
    Anything over invoice for a 2001 right now is too much. You ought to be buying at invoice or below. Remember, there is a 3% holdback, so even at invoice the dealer is making $800 - $1000.

    Michelin have never tested out very well in the tire tests done by Consumer Reports. They have always been the most expensive tire, but middle of the road as far as performance. You probably will get long life out of them. I have known people that get 80,000 miles or more on a set of Michelins.

    B.F. Goodrich Radial Long Trail (OEM on some F150s) or Bridgestone Dueler A/T have topped Consumer Reports test. The Bridgestones looks really good too. Don't let the agressive tread pattern of the A/T fool you, they really ride pretty smooth and quiet.

    You can also look at Yokohama Geolander H/T or Bridgestone Dueler H/L. Both scored very well. They are more of an SUV tire and do not look as aggressive as the Dueler A/T. The Yokohamas are a little cheaper than B.F. Goodrich or Bridgestone. You can go Consumer Reports website to learn more.
  • mikebikemikebike Posts: 2
    I posted just above in #731 am looking at a 2001 F150 I crew Lariat with the limited slip rear end and towing package

    invoice costs I/ options is 26,477 they will do it for 26,506 (they keep the 500 rebate) plus tax

    when you say invoice or below ... how does the $500 rebate fit in .... to me or them if I am below invoice......

    I do not mean to be dense.... I just want to get the best deal I can ...
  • jimbob7216jimbob7216 Posts: 15
    Thanks connon and jschira 1 for the feedback on the Generals and the Michelins. I will go with the Generals.

    Mikebike, the rebate is YOUR money! If you give it to the dealer, then it's like saying invoice plus $529. Email the internet sales managers of the Ford dealerships in your area, with exactly the truck you are looking for, and ask for firm quotes. The more dealerships you email, the better the picture becomes. Some will respond with exactly what you are looking for, that is, a firm quote on the truck you want, and it can be a very clean, easy deal for you at the best possible price.

    Good luck.

  • jschira1jschira1 Posts: 7
    Mikebike - Jimbob7216 is right. If you let the dealer keep the rebate, that's like giving the dealer another $500. You should be at or below invoice before figuring any rebate. The rebate is your money. I don't know what F150's are selling for in your area, but around here (Dallas-Fort Worth), most dealers are selling F150's for $500 - $1000 below invoice. Some even cheaper. I bought my Screw 2 weeks ago. MSRP was $27900. Invoice was $24,700. I paid $22,400. No rebates here. Another dealer is taking $6400 off MSRP on Lariat 4x4's (loaded - MSRP $35,400, selling for $28,998). But this is Texas, where big dealers sell more trucks than cars, so truck deals can get pretty good, especially at the end of the model year.

    Jimbob7216 - I have Generals on my truck too. We are in the dry season in North Texas, so I will keep these tires for now, but will switch to the Bridgestone Dueler A/T's when the rainy season starts in the fall. I had a 2000 GMC with Generals and had to try and avoid a bus that cut in front of me during a rainstorm. Ended up hitting the bus and the guardrail. The only body panel not damaged was the roof and the tailgate (repair bill was $6800, paid for by the bus company insurance). I don't know if different tires would have helped, but I got away from that one without a scratch, and if new tires will help prevent even a little a repeat performance, they are worth the money. On a positive note, wrecking my GMC gave me a good excuse to trade it in and get my Screw.
  • truckdudetruckdude Posts: 55
    Can you tell me what the monthly lease payment and residual are on your truck? I am interested in a lease but so far haven't seen anything that appealing. I'm assuming with a 5% equivalant lease factor the monthly payments are pretty reasonable.
  • jimbob7216jimbob7216 Posts: 15
    My walk-out price, TTL incl, was 23,287. My lease is no money down, $361 for 35 months. As you know, at that point I either turn in the truck, (which I will do), or buy it for the residual.

  • kbehnkekbehnke Posts: 60

    What was the MSRP on your truck? Was it just the base 4x4 XLT SC, or did you have any options? How many miles/yr are you allowed? From what I've seen advertised where I live (Midwest), it seems like you got a pretty good deal.

    Also, was it really a 35 month lease, or was that just a typo?

    Thanks in advance!
  • reid7reid7 Posts: 1
    jshira1 - Can you tell me what dealer in Dallas you used to buy your Screw ? I haven't been very successful at getting price quotes out of dealers over the phone or internet, and when I do they are quoting $2-3K over invoice. If you can tell me the dealer and even the salesmans name I would appreciate it.
  • jschira1jschira1 Posts: 7
    Reid7 -

    The dealer is Don Davis on SH 360 in Arlington. Talk to Bobby Ervin, a nice guy and a man of few word, rare in a car salesman. Don Davis' number is (817) 261-4261.

    Westway Ford in Irving was advertising $6400 off a loaded 4x4 Lariat Screw this past weekend. MSRP $35,400. Sale price $28,998. I think that the ad said that they had 15 in stock at that price. I don't have a name there. The telephone number is (972) 659-0333.
  • cjremshwacjremshwa Posts: 3
    If anyone is interested in a used 2001 S-Crew, there are a few out there (in the DFW area, *including mine, hint hint*) that are for sale and reasonably priced.
  • Alright cjremshwa,

    I'll bite. Give me your pitch on your used 2001.
  • ron104ron104 Posts: 7
    I recently checked my radiator size on the Screw with the class 3 towing package and sure enough it was the small 1.02 one. The dealer said that they had heard about the problem but they weren't to specific about the details. Anyway they did replace it , but I am surprised that Ford has not notified all of us . Do they think that most of us just won't notice it? Don't they have some responsibility to notify us and either replace it or refund the money we paid for the package? Does anybody know of anything on the formal side that Ford is doing? Maybe after all the probs with their Firestone tires, they just don't want any additional bad publicity.
  • tkenny53tkenny53 Posts: 41
    I test drove a 01 screw, and while I drove over the bumps in the road at about 30mph the whole front end shimmied like crazy, not to mention 6500 miles on the truck, no reason was given on the mileage, but any way was this normal? also I looked at the radiator it was about 1 inch thick at the top with the class 3 package, when I questioned that, the sales manager asked did I measure it at the bottom, he said its wider at the bottom than the top, gotta love that sales pitch!
  • My 2001 4X4 Supercrew rides like a tank when pulling a trailer that weighs 3000lbs. Does anyone have any suggestions for smoothing the ride so we don't bounce out of he seats. I have a Reese equalizer/anti-sway system on the trailer.
  • cat36cat36 Posts: 2
    Has anyone tried to program in a spare key. When I was at the dealership last week for an oil change, the parts department cut me a spare security key and I figured I could save the $12.50 the service department wanted to program the key. The instructions are in the owners manual and appear simple, but.... The new key will not program. I took the key back and the parts department cut 2 more keys and neither of these would work.. Their comment was that they had never seen a key that would not program. As for the instructions to program,it states all you have to do is to insert a coded key in the ignition switch, turn the key to the on position for more than 1 second but less then 5 seconds and then remove key. Then you must do the same with the second coed key. After that you insert the new un-coded key within 10 seconds and turn it to the on position. At that point the key should be coded to work. But it doesn't, I must be missing something... any ideas.. About the truck,Black, 5.4 litre, tow pack. XLT 2wheel drive, I ordered this truck and I now have about 4000 miles on it. I am getting about 15.4 mpg all city driving. I did purchase the rubber bed mat that comes with the Harley truck from the dealership for $135.00. This is high quality, thick rubber mat that works well.Love this truck!!
  • connonconnon Posts: 52
    When I picked up my 01 I had to remind the dealer about an extra key(big dealer perk, eh?) he had promised me.It only took him about 5 minutes to cut and program the key.Maybe your problem is in the computer module and not with the spare keys.Or maybe the entire lot of keys was exposed to something that fried the chips. Who knows? Mine is a 4x4 KR /5.4 with less than 3000 on the clock and even with almost all local driving my mileage keeps getting better. Now about 14 mpg. What a difference from my 99 superduty v10 4x4 which ran about 10.5 when I traded it.
  • guy21guy21 Posts: 129
    Last month I bought a Supercrew that included the CLIII Trailer Package ($350 MSRP). After reading various posts stating that the wrong radiators might have been installed, I decided to do a little research on my own. Today, I asked my dealer and Ford three questions. 1) Which radiator is installed in my truck? 2) Which radiator did I pay for? 3) Which radiator am I supposed to have? The dealer answered the first two questions. By checking the part number on the radiator, he determined that I have the standard 1 row radiator, not the 2 row super cooling radiator. By checking the options content listing (option code 535), we determined that the $350 on the sticker was to include the 2 row radiator (plus other items that I will get to). Ford answered the third question by telling us that per their Ordering Guides, on Supercrews only, the CLIII group does not include the H.D. Electrical/Cooling group (option code 531). This fact is also cleverly footnoted in the F150 sales literature under the Elect/Cool group description but not under the CLIII group listing. Per the option pricing and the sales literature for the CLIII group, the $350 was to include: 7-pin wiring, hitch receiver, HD shocks, HD battery, radiator upgrade, trans cooler. Ford also checked their build records per my VIN and verified that none of the HD Elec/Cooling group components were installed on my vehicle. The HD Elec/Cool group pricing lists HD battery, radiator upgrade and trans cooler upgrade for a MSRP of $210. As I have none of these items, but feel that I paid for them, I have asked my dealer to request a $210 refund from Ford.
  • tkenny53tkenny53 Posts: 41
    Well I have checked some trucks and found the trany cooler, but the small radiator. The largest tow package (7700lbs) should include all the items you mention, but the reg supercrew tow package is only rated for 6600lbs, but the one I saw was the 7700lb package, the dealer said the radiator was wider at the base than the top. The other factor is (!!!!!!) the fins, one has about 12 fins per inch and the hd one has 18 fins per inch, I think thats right, I looked throught the spec book at the dealer and it has all the specs on this matter. More checking is needed
This discussion has been closed.