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So you dig on the Accord, you got what you like. What anyone else says should be irrevelevant or do you begin discussions about your car by pointing "the experts" who like it? Shouldn't your happiness be enough?
sportier than camry...rofl. Wow, that's some high praise!
Most people on these kinds of forums are car enthusiasts and base their decisions on how they feel about the car, and then also research how others, including present owners and various publications/professional road testers feel about the car, as it does help in making a sound decision.
I take it that you don't read any car mags or Edmunds reviews, because to you they do not mean anything more than lies that the writers have been made to write, right? But you do frequent this website, and discuss issues/qualities with other owners. So why do that, when you know your gut feel is the only thing that is going to make any decisions for you regarding both the initial sale, as well as the ownership experience. And why bother reading about other people's opinions, when they just don't matter to you?
Anyway, this is a MZ3 forum, so it might make more sense if we stick to discussion that car, rather than taking cheap shots at other cars.
Lies, disinformation or useless opinions.
But you do frequent this website, and discuss issues/qualities with other owners. So why do that, when you know your gut feel is the only thing that is going to make any decisions for you regarding both the initial sale, as well as the ownership experience..
For discussion. At times it can be edifying, such as the solutions for problems, great deals, possible mods, etc.
And why bother reading about other people's opinions, when they just don't matter to you? .
When it comes to the quality of the interior, ride, etc, I'd agree, those opinions won't shape or alter my view of a car in the least. That my friend thinks her Acura handles well is not relevant to my interpretation of her car. She likes it and she is happy. I can't dispute her opinions but I can from my point of view say the car is disappointing.
I'm here as I'm astounded at the value and quality I perceive in the Mazda3. For 20k loaded, the car's a major steal, especially when one has a chance to wring it out. Good stuff and I am keeping a keen eye on Mazda for a possible Mazdaspeed3 Hatch for 2006 as I may very well replace my BMW with it.
Sure the Mazda6 handles great. But I wanted a good family sedan. The Accord excels at that task. If you thing the Mazda3 is a good deal at $20k, I got my Accord EX-L at $22.3k with almost every accessory available. That's a good deal too.
XM will be a big deal to me once the fascists get Stern off the radio and he goes to Satellite.
Still hoping for a Mazdaspeed3 Hatch by 2006. It'd be the perfect thing to replace my BMW. I'd trust the Mazda to keep running.
I didn't bother to read the rest of the posts, so if this has been answered don't shoot me, but please answer this question again.
Thanks.
(and yes, I posted this same post on the "problems" board too).
I get 20k miles on my 16s, so 35k would be a huge jump!
and I'll be shelling out $800 for tires every 1.5 to 2 yrs if that is the case.
Uh, where are you buying tires? 17s cost 100-125 now. They're common now.
Can the 3s Sedan 16 inch tires go on the hatch model? If so, there are a lot more variety 205/55/16 tires on the market compared to the 205/50/17s. And you can actually find them that have 50,000 mile warranty.
50k warranty on performance tires? you're buying something with no performance ability at all if you get ANY longevity warranty.
I love the 3s Hatch, but the 17s are a deal breaker for me if those are the only way to go.
You can downsize the tires aftermarket, sell someone else your new 17s for a break even. Of course the 3's handling will be compromised by the flaccid rubber you put on it.
Blueguy- how in the world are you having to change your 16s every 20K miles? What kind of driving do you do?
"Uh, where are you buying tires? 17s cost 100-125 now. They're common now."
Well, most the ones I researched were $150-$200, but my point was that with their wear life I'm not thrilled about paying money every 18-24 months for tires.
"50k warranty on performance tires? you're buying something with no performance ability at all if you get ANY longevity warranty."
I'm not as concerned with the sportiness of the wheels as I am with the hp, decent fuel economy, and utility of the cargo space. Those are the aspects I like most about this vehicle. And a simple internet search by the size of the s Sedan's tires brought back several tires that carry a warranty at the 205/55/16 size. Some were 40K, some were 50K warranties. In general, won't the tires they put on the s Sedan have a longer wear life. Will going to the 16s hurt my mpgs at all?
17 inch tires are a lot more common now, and there's a wide variety of tires available, if you check around. For instance, TireRack list Kumho Ecsta ASX tires, which are an "all season performance" tire, and they're only $70 each. Even Michelin Pilor Sport A.S. is under $200. THen there's the Nokian W.R. series, which is also available in the 17 inch wheel size for the Mazda3, and an excellent snow tire as well as 4 season tire.
Plus there's lots of performance, summer-only, and touring tires available. I just know the performance all-seasons because that's what I'm planning on purchasing come November. The only ones that cost $200 to buy are the OEMs tires, which just aren't worth that much.
Every corner is an opportunity.
Well, most the ones I researched were $150-$200, but my point was that with their wear life I'm not thrilled about paying money every 18-24 months for tires.
Someone else suggested kumho. Go that route and you get a decent peforming tire, with average life and a great price.
Will going to the 16s hurt my mpgs at all?
No. Probably about the same or a slight bump.
regards,
kyfdx
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CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF IT WOULD BE WORTH MY WILD TO WAIT A MONTH OR SO TO GET A DISCOUNTED PRICE ON A MAZDA3????
Why do you think you would get a discounted price on the 3 in a month or so? I suppose the '05s could be out by then, but there's no telling. Plus, you might have VERY slim pickings in terms of '04s - you'd be unlikely to get the configuration you wanted.
Talk to a dealer, see how low you can get the price, if it doesn't get low enough, tell them no thanks, maybe in a few months... they may come down a little further. Then buy.
I will pick one though.
I FIGURED THAT IF I WAITED A MONTH OR TWO I COULD GET A DISCOUNTED 'O4' AND IF I COULD NOT FIND THE ONE I WANTED I COULD JUST GET AN 'O5' AT THE PRICE I WOULD GET AN 'O4' FOR RIGHT NOW.
PLEASE TELL ME IF I AM WRONG ANYONE.
Meade
Hard to imagine what they are doing at 47-48 psi. I can't believe the dealer set them there on purpose. Do they come from the factory at this high pressure for some reason and the dealer just forgot to bring them down?
I am planning to re-set them to the recommended level of 32 psi. Is everyone pretty much using this setting or are some of you getting better performance at different settings?
Also are there any other "frequently wrong on delivery" items that I should be especially careful to check at this time? Thanks.
I never take a test drive, much less delivery, of a new car without my tire gauge in hand. I also routinely retorque the wheel bolts to whatever the correct setting is [somewhere in the 75-80 Ft-lb range, depending on manufacturer] with my own torque wrench. These are frequently overtightened and/or uneven, which can result in rotor warping the first time the brakes get hot.
abarlow
My '90 Protege took Mazda 2 trys of newly design parts to finally cured the A/C mildew smell.
http://www.mlive.com/prnewswire/prnauto.ssf?/cgi-bin/stories.pl?A- CCT=mlive2.story&STORY=/www/story/08-02-2004/0002222981&E- DATE=
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regards,
kyfdx
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But, there is a big difference between front-wheel and rear-wheel drive. For good handling, regardless of the drive wheels, you want the tires with the best traction on the rear. So, if you are putting new tires on one axle, they should always go on the rear, otherwise you are inviting extreme oversteer. So....for front-wheel drive, I would insist on four winter tires.. for rear-wheel, maybe you can get by with two, but I like to stop and steer as well as accelerate, so I'll take four then, also.
regards,
kyfdx
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For me it came down to the Focus ZX5 and the Mazda3 hatch. I thought the ZX5 was actually slightly more fun to drive than the 3, and it was less expensive, but ultimately I felt like the car was cheapy made, unlikely to be as reliable as a 3 (even in its first model year), and didn't look as good.
If the Vibe had better low-end torque on the 170hp engine, it might have beaten out the 3 for me.
I think of the Impreza as a small station wagon so I mentally excluded it from the comparison. But it can be a real deal; I've seen then advertised under $17k in my area with the bonus of AWD. I suppose the PT Cruiser is in the picture too but for me the novelty has worn off. If I were to get something like that I'd probably go for a small minivan like the MPV instead.
So Japan eventually rejected the Toyota Volts(Vibe) imported from California.
Strange, the Corolla also built in the same Vibe factory is ok.
By the way, they all got a driving position unfit, literally, for humans unless you got short legs, long arms, or both.
The Euro-spec Corolla/Verso got telescopic steering wheel starting '05.
The 3 handles great on dry roads but in my opinion it is terrible in snow, ice, slush, etc.
I know...most cars have their problems under these conditions but I have never experienced anything like this before.
I will definitely be putting 4 winters on come fall and feel anyone who drives in REAL winter conditions should prepare to have to do so also.
BTW..under the same driving conditions..my 99 Acura 3.2 TL with Traction Control and All Seasons handled great.
My $.02 worth.
everfeb
(Did I read that Mazda has put different A/S on more recent 3 models?)
This fall I will be putting 16" wheels with higher profile winters on. First time in 40 years of driving that I'll be buying winter tires.
everfeb
I switch from the stock 17" to 16" aftermarket alloys with dunlop a2's (dedicated winter tires)in a slightly narrower tread (as narrow as i could find in this profile) when snow season hits. The car handles quite well in winter with the improved tires. No studs or chains, just a better winter compound that tends to stay soft and pliable in temperatures of -35 to -40 C (which is about -40F).
The stock RSA's are really poor in anything but dry conditions. Even where there is just a slight drizzle they tend to squirm a little. Not all that dangerous when slightly wet, but enough to make me think twice.
By the way, at -25C or colder, my car can't clear the side windows of frost, so visibility isn't great. And right now my AC doesn't get the car very cold.
So, the M3 is just like baby bear. Its a wonderful car as long as its not too hot, and not too cold.