So if the magazines pick the Accord, they are paid to lie? And if so does Edmunds, even they are paid to lie. Why, just because you say so? Unless you have something to back up your posts, don't bother to narrate your anecdotes.
I'm sorry, is Edmunds buying my car for me? That's the height of ridiculous to assume the worth of a car is directly related to how "journalists" review it. Unless they're buying our cars for us, their opinions are worthless.
So you dig on the Accord, you got what you like. What anyone else says should be irrevelevant or do you begin discussions about your car by pointing "the experts" who like it? Shouldn't your happiness be enough?
sportier than camry...rofl. Wow, that's some high praise!
Blueguy, edmunds or anyone else does not buy the car for me, but to say that they are paid to lie is something I object to.
Most people on these kinds of forums are car enthusiasts and base their decisions on how they feel about the car, and then also research how others, including present owners and various publications/professional road testers feel about the car, as it does help in making a sound decision.
I take it that you don't read any car mags or Edmunds reviews, because to you they do not mean anything more than lies that the writers have been made to write, right? But you do frequent this website, and discuss issues/qualities with other owners. So why do that, when you know your gut feel is the only thing that is going to make any decisions for you regarding both the initial sale, as well as the ownership experience. And why bother reading about other people's opinions, when they just don't matter to you?
Anyway, this is a MZ3 forum, so it might make more sense if we stick to discussion that car, rather than taking cheap shots at other cars.
take it that you don't read any car mags or Edmunds reviews, because to you they do not mean anything more than lies that the writers have been made to write, right?
Lies, disinformation or useless opinions.
But you do frequent this website, and discuss issues/qualities with other owners. So why do that, when you know your gut feel is the only thing that is going to make any decisions for you regarding both the initial sale, as well as the ownership experience..
For discussion. At times it can be edifying, such as the solutions for problems, great deals, possible mods, etc.
And why bother reading about other people's opinions, when they just don't matter to you? .
When it comes to the quality of the interior, ride, etc, I'd agree, those opinions won't shape or alter my view of a car in the least. That my friend thinks her Acura handles well is not relevant to my interpretation of her car. She likes it and she is happy. I can't dispute her opinions but I can from my point of view say the car is disappointing.
I'm here as I'm astounded at the value and quality I perceive in the Mazda3. For 20k loaded, the car's a major steal, especially when one has a chance to wring it out. Good stuff and I am keeping a keen eye on Mazda for a possible Mazdaspeed3 Hatch for 2006 as I may very well replace my BMW with it.
from this generation. All EX-L's, one coupe, and two five speeds. I will give the 6 the edge on driving dynamics. But like I've said in ither forums, there aren't many curves on the interstate. The Accord rides fine. It handles everyday roads with ablomb. It has one of the best interiors too. not to mention, it is the only 4 door sedan right now with factory XM radio that doesn't look like an add-on.
Sure the Mazda6 handles great. But I wanted a good family sedan. The Accord excels at that task. If you thing the Mazda3 is a good deal at $20k, I got my Accord EX-L at $22.3k with almost every accessory available. That's a good deal too.
I'm thinking of trading my SI for an Accord coupe just for the satellite radio. I can't stand those little black aftermarket doodads they put on some cars.
Ok, I'm dumb about tires, but I do know I can't get the 3 hatch if it has to have the 17s on it. Those tires will last 35,000 miles if I'm lucky and I'll be shelling out $800 for tires every 1.5 to 2 yrs if that is the case. I push putting 20K miles/yr on a car. Can the 3s Sedan 16 inch tires go on the hatch model? If so, there are a lot more variety 205/55/16 tires on the market compared to the 205/50/17s. And you can actually find them that have 50,000 mile warranty. I love the 3s Hatch, but the 17s are a deal breaker for me if those are the only way to go.
I didn't bother to read the rest of the posts, so if this has been answered don't shoot me, but please answer this question again.
Thanks.
(and yes, I posted this same post on the "problems" board too).
Ok, I'm dumb about tires, but I do know I can't get the 3 hatch if it has to have the 17s on it. Those tires will last 35,000 miles if I'm lucky
I get 20k miles on my 16s, so 35k would be a huge jump!
and I'll be shelling out $800 for tires every 1.5 to 2 yrs if that is the case.
Uh, where are you buying tires? 17s cost 100-125 now. They're common now.
Can the 3s Sedan 16 inch tires go on the hatch model? If so, there are a lot more variety 205/55/16 tires on the market compared to the 205/50/17s. And you can actually find them that have 50,000 mile warranty.
50k warranty on performance tires? you're buying something with no performance ability at all if you get ANY longevity warranty.
I love the 3s Hatch, but the 17s are a deal breaker for me if those are the only way to go.
You can downsize the tires aftermarket, sell someone else your new 17s for a break even. Of course the 3's handling will be compromised by the flaccid rubber you put on it.
"I get 20k miles on my 16s, so 35k would be a huge jump!"
Blueguy- how in the world are you having to change your 16s every 20K miles? What kind of driving do you do?
"Uh, where are you buying tires? 17s cost 100-125 now. They're common now."
Well, most the ones I researched were $150-$200, but my point was that with their wear life I'm not thrilled about paying money every 18-24 months for tires.
"50k warranty on performance tires? you're buying something with no performance ability at all if you get ANY longevity warranty."
I'm not as concerned with the sportiness of the wheels as I am with the hp, decent fuel economy, and utility of the cargo space. Those are the aspects I like most about this vehicle. And a simple internet search by the size of the s Sedan's tires brought back several tires that carry a warranty at the 205/55/16 size. Some were 40K, some were 50K warranties. In general, won't the tires they put on the s Sedan have a longer wear life. Will going to the 16s hurt my mpgs at all?
Man I was getting only 20k out of my 15s on my old car. It's about average. Performance tires get worse, snow tires get worse, all season tires get worse. To be honest, most of the "high mileage" tires stink because they give up everything for tread life.
17 inch tires are a lot more common now, and there's a wide variety of tires available, if you check around. For instance, TireRack list Kumho Ecsta ASX tires, which are an "all season performance" tire, and they're only $70 each. Even Michelin Pilor Sport A.S. is under $200. THen there's the Nokian W.R. series, which is also available in the 17 inch wheel size for the Mazda3, and an excellent snow tire as well as 4 season tire.
Plus there's lots of performance, summer-only, and touring tires available. I just know the performance all-seasons because that's what I'm planning on purchasing come November. The only ones that cost $200 to buy are the OEMs tires, which just aren't worth that much.
Blueguy- how in the world are you having to change your 16s every 20K miles? What kind of driving do you do?
Every corner is an opportunity. I chewed through my 18s on my other car in 14k miles.
Well, most the ones I researched were $150-$200, but my point was that with their wear life I'm not thrilled about paying money every 18-24 months for tires.
Someone else suggested kumho. Go that route and you get a decent peforming tire, with average life and a great price.
Something to keep in mind.. Just call me Mr. Obvious.. You'll have to get different wheels for the 16" tires. You'd be surprised how many people don't realize that.
I know it is rediculous, but I still can't decide which is cooler looking car the hatch or the sedan. CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF IT WOULD BE WORTH MY WILD TO WAIT A MONTH OR SO TO GET A DISCOUNTED PRICE ON A MAZDA3????
If you can't decide which looks better, get the hatch - it's more useful.
Why do you think you would get a discounted price on the 3 in a month or so? I suppose the '05s could be out by then, but there's no telling. Plus, you might have VERY slim pickings in terms of '04s - you'd be unlikely to get the configuration you wanted.
Talk to a dealer, see how low you can get the price, if it doesn't get low enough, tell them no thanks, maybe in a few months... they may come down a little further. Then buy.
I just never liked hatchbacks, and I don't really have too much need for one. I look at one one day and think it is nicer looking for me and the next it changes. Hatchbacks blend in with so much else out there already and the sedan on occasion looks a little bubbly like a chick car. I will pick one though. I FIGURED THAT IF I WAITED A MONTH OR TWO I COULD GET A DISCOUNTED 'O4' AND IF I COULD NOT FIND THE ONE I WANTED I COULD JUST GET AN 'O5' AT THE PRICE I WOULD GET AN 'O4' FOR RIGHT NOW. PLEASE TELL ME IF I AM WRONG ANYONE.
you can always wait and see, you may get lucky.....but the trade off will be less selection. You may not get the color or options you want. Is that trade off worth it?
Just picked up a new Maxda 3 Hatchback yesterday from the dealer. I have been looking it over in greater detail at home today, and I was surprised to find that the tire pressures on the 17" Eagle RS-A's are all set at 47-48 psi. The placard on the driver's door jam recommends 32 psi all around, and the tire sidewall itself says 44 psi maximum.
Hard to imagine what they are doing at 47-48 psi. I can't believe the dealer set them there on purpose. Do they come from the factory at this high pressure for some reason and the dealer just forgot to bring them down?
I am planning to re-set them to the recommended level of 32 psi. Is everyone pretty much using this setting or are some of you getting better performance at different settings?
Also are there any other "frequently wrong on delivery" items that I should be especially careful to check at this time? Thanks.
This is a common phenomenon. They are shipped with 45-50 psi to keep the tires from developing excessive flat spots during the shipping process. Dealer PDI procedures are supposed to put the tires at factory recommended pressures. Some dealers leave them high on the lot for the same reason as shipping - keeping flat-spotting to a minimum. However, as you have experienced, many cars get delivered without anyone thinking to put the pressures where they belong.
I never take a test drive, much less delivery, of a new car without my tire gauge in hand. I also routinely retorque the wheel bolts to whatever the correct setting is [somewhere in the 75-80 Ft-lb range, depending on manufacturer] with my own torque wrench. These are frequently overtightened and/or uneven, which can result in rotor warping the first time the brakes get hot.
The cars are shipped with high tire pressure. The fact that they're high on delivery indicates that the dealer has a really sloppy vehicle preparation procedure. A dealer shouldn't leave them like that on the lot either, as it will result in a rougher ride.
i have a set on my 2000 si and i love them. they handle great in rain and snow and are wearing very well after 10k (i hope to get 50k out of them). they are heads and shoulders above the oem michelins (sp?) and cost much less to boot ($90 per as opposed to $125 per). i would buy them again without a doubt.
Hey guys, Can you give me some advice. I have been looking for a loaded Yellow Mazda 3 Auto 5dr (with sunroof/6 disc/headlamps,leather etc..). I have found one fairly nearby for a reasonable price however heres the catch - its a 12/03 built vehicle. Most of the issues discussed in the problems forums I can handle but I am worried about the poor A/C issue. I could just order a new vehicle from Mazda however I am being told by the dealer that it would probably take at least 90 days to get one, in which case it may be better to wait for a 2005 model. The issue though is I dont know a) if they will have one in the color I want and b) the vehicle may not have the options I want,so I could be waiting for god knows how long for my vehicle. Do you think its a good idea to pursue the yellow one available (and just wait for the bulletin/TSB/recall on the A/C - fingers crossed) or should I pass on this one and order directly from Mazda (and keep my fingers crossed again). I looked the other night at around 100 dealers nationwide and found very fews cars in this color and the ones that were did not have all the options I wanted. I would appreciate your comments/thoughts. Thanks
Regarding the possibility of waiting for a 2005 in yellow, you may want to check post #7391 on the Edmunds "Mazda3 Sedan" board. This was posted on June 10 by audia8q who seems to know his stuff and may be a Mazda dealer. He has been advised by Mazda that solar yellow is being deleted as a color option for 2005. You may want to confirm that with your own dealer to see if you will need to stick with the available 2004s if you really want yellow.
Have decided on Mazda 3 5 dr with pretty much everything, but am concerned about the handling in the snow/ice. I live in the country on top of a 1700 foot hill in W. Mass and have no experience with low profile tires. Have all front wheel drive vehicles (Camry/Accord/Concord) and all do fine with snow but lowest profile tires are 65's. Can I get away with all season? How is the hatchback with snows? Can I get away with 2 front snows? Talked with my local dealer but they are new with Mazda and not much help.
...on just one axle. If you're going to switch, go to all four. The handling of the car with snows on just one end will be a potential disaster waiting to happen.
I have driven my P5 along route 2 over the Berkshires for the past 3 yrs, and it has handled the New England winters with aplomb with the OEM low profiles. The Mazda 3 should be similarly excellent. Snow tires will of course make the 3 even better for you.
We used to ride around without seatbelts and on bias-ply tires also... that doesn't mean it isn't dangerous... Mismatched tires on different axles is not a good situation, no matter what kind of tires.
Theoretically you are are correct, but in practice it doesn't make that much difference. If you spend any time in northern states in the winter, it's obvious that most people use snows only on one axle, and there's no evidence to indicate that this causes any significant problems. The dynamics of the front and rear axles is already very different, for both FWD and RWD cars. Adding tires with a little more traction on one axle doesn't matter much compared to other factors that already make the front and rear behave differently. Ever notice how some high-end sports cars have different tires on the front and rear (mostly bigger on the rear)?
Well.. I think its a little more than theory, but you are correct that small differences between axles are minor.
But, there is a big difference between front-wheel and rear-wheel drive. For good handling, regardless of the drive wheels, you want the tires with the best traction on the rear. So, if you are putting new tires on one axle, they should always go on the rear, otherwise you are inviting extreme oversteer. So....for front-wheel drive, I would insist on four winter tires.. for rear-wheel, maybe you can get by with two, but I like to stop and steer as well as accelerate, so I'll take four then, also.
Glad to hear you've found the winter handling to be good. I live in Western Mass, just bought my 3 hatch a month ago, and have been wondering what sort of "fun" the winter might bring -- my old car was a 1996 Sunfire, which despite many drawbacks did have traction control, which definitely made a difference. Hoping I don't regret buying a car without it... fortunately most of my driving is in the valley along 91 and further west.
Im considering purchassing a Mazda 3 5 door. Any suggestions on other similar cars to consider? Also, I want to get the 5 speed, the only problem is i dont know how to drive it yet and just moved so I know no one to teach me. Is the auto 4speed any good? Any advice?
If you are specifically looking for a compact-sized 5-door hatchback, you might try looking at the Matrix, Focus ZX5, Golf, Elantra GT, Spectra5 (brand new), and the Scion xA and xB. If power is really important, that will probably limit you to the Matrix with the 170 hp engine and Golf 1.8T. I just read a review of the Spectra5 in C/D and it was very positive, but it has a 138 hp engine and 0-60 is only 8.2 seconds, not close to the 3s. Elantra GT will be similar.
For comprehensiveness' sake, the Vibe should be mentioned as well as the Matrix. Granted, mechanically they're the same car, but styling, options, pricing, warranty, etc are a bit different, so it really is a separate option. Also, the base PT Cruiser and Impreza should also probably go on this list (depending on who you ask).
For me it came down to the Focus ZX5 and the Mazda3 hatch. I thought the ZX5 was actually slightly more fun to drive than the 3, and it was less expensive, but ultimately I felt like the car was cheapy made, unlikely to be as reliable as a 3 (even in its first model year), and didn't look as good.
If the Vibe had better low-end torque on the 170hp engine, it might have beaten out the 3 for me.
Yes, the Vibe is basically the same car as the Matrix, but if the prices were about the same I'd go for the Matrix because its Toyota nameplate should hold value better than Pontiac. Sad but true. Also I personally like the looks of the Matrix better than the Vibe.
I think of the Impreza as a small station wagon so I mentally excluded it from the comparison. But it can be a real deal; I've seen then advertised under $17k in my area with the bonus of AWD. I suppose the PT Cruiser is in the picture too but for me the novelty has worn off. If I were to get something like that I'd probably go for a small minivan like the MPV instead.
I suggest driving each one and evaluating in terms of all qualities..interior, seat feel, exterior, ride, power, handling, safety features, attention to detail and storage spaces, thoughtful design, etc...if you do this, you will be driving a 3 5-door guarenteed. I have had mine for 4 months and still can't believe what Mazda put in to this vehicle - it's more thoughtfully and inovatively designed than the 6. The automatic is great for an automatic...the manual mode performs flawlessly and it let me hit 6,000rpm in 2nd - 65mph! My AC works fine so far. To boot, I had a friend look out his window and notice my new car...he asked me if it was a LEXUS? That's the second person who has asked me that...nobody looks at a Vibe/Matrix/Escape/Pt Cruiser/Subaru Impreza/Hyundai, etc.. and see Lexus....a great and beautiful vehicle - worthy of "one of the best small cars ever made" IMO.
Got my 3-5door Auto in December. Got a LOT of snow covered, snow packed, icey, slushy roads to drive on up here in NW Ontario last Jan Feb March. I'm 56. Have driven all kinds of cars under these conditions in my lifetime. Have not had low profile tires before. The 3-5 door GT with the low profile OEM AS tires is without doubt the worst winter roads handling vehicle I have ever experienced. My wife who is a good and experienced driver absolutely refused to drive our 3 this past winter. The 3 handles great on dry roads but in my opinion it is terrible in snow, ice, slush, etc. I know...most cars have their problems under these conditions but I have never experienced anything like this before. I will definitely be putting 4 winters on come fall and feel anyone who drives in REAL winter conditions should prepare to have to do so also.
BTW..under the same driving conditions..my 99 Acura 3.2 TL with Traction Control and All Seasons handled great.
It's not just the car, it's the tires. From what I've heard, the RS-As kinda suck in snow; I'll be putting a set of better A/S tires on before winter...either Kuhmo Ecasta ASX or Nokian W.R...haven't decided if we get enough snow to justify the Nokians yet or not.
You are right and I apologize. My post reads like I'm bashing the car. In fact, it's probably the Goodyear RS A/S low profile 17" tires which caused the severe winter weather handling problems I experienced. Put these tires on any car without traction control or AWD in the winter driving conditions I went through and there would likely be traction and handling problems. (Did I read that Mazda has put different A/S on more recent 3 models?)
This fall I will be putting 16" wheels with higher profile winters on. First time in 40 years of driving that I'll be buying winter tires.
I switch from the stock 17" to 16" aftermarket alloys with dunlop a2's (dedicated winter tires)in a slightly narrower tread (as narrow as i could find in this profile) when snow season hits. The car handles quite well in winter with the improved tires. No studs or chains, just a better winter compound that tends to stay soft and pliable in temperatures of -35 to -40 C (which is about -40F).
The stock RSA's are really poor in anything but dry conditions. Even where there is just a slight drizzle they tend to squirm a little. Not all that dangerous when slightly wet, but enough to make me think twice.
By the way, at -25C or colder, my car can't clear the side windows of frost, so visibility isn't great. And right now my AC doesn't get the car very cold.
So, the M3 is just like baby bear. Its a wonderful car as long as its not too hot, and not too cold.
Comments
So you dig on the Accord, you got what you like. What anyone else says should be irrevelevant or do you begin discussions about your car by pointing "the experts" who like it? Shouldn't your happiness be enough?
sportier than camry...rofl. Wow, that's some high praise!
Most people on these kinds of forums are car enthusiasts and base their decisions on how they feel about the car, and then also research how others, including present owners and various publications/professional road testers feel about the car, as it does help in making a sound decision.
I take it that you don't read any car mags or Edmunds reviews, because to you they do not mean anything more than lies that the writers have been made to write, right? But you do frequent this website, and discuss issues/qualities with other owners. So why do that, when you know your gut feel is the only thing that is going to make any decisions for you regarding both the initial sale, as well as the ownership experience. And why bother reading about other people's opinions, when they just don't matter to you?
Anyway, this is a MZ3 forum, so it might make more sense if we stick to discussion that car, rather than taking cheap shots at other cars.
Lies, disinformation or useless opinions.
But you do frequent this website, and discuss issues/qualities with other owners. So why do that, when you know your gut feel is the only thing that is going to make any decisions for you regarding both the initial sale, as well as the ownership experience..
For discussion. At times it can be edifying, such as the solutions for problems, great deals, possible mods, etc.
And why bother reading about other people's opinions, when they just don't matter to you? .
When it comes to the quality of the interior, ride, etc, I'd agree, those opinions won't shape or alter my view of a car in the least. That my friend thinks her Acura handles well is not relevant to my interpretation of her car. She likes it and she is happy. I can't dispute her opinions but I can from my point of view say the car is disappointing.
I'm here as I'm astounded at the value and quality I perceive in the Mazda3. For 20k loaded, the car's a major steal, especially when one has a chance to wring it out. Good stuff and I am keeping a keen eye on Mazda for a possible Mazdaspeed3 Hatch for 2006 as I may very well replace my BMW with it.
Sure the Mazda6 handles great. But I wanted a good family sedan. The Accord excels at that task. If you thing the Mazda3 is a good deal at $20k, I got my Accord EX-L at $22.3k with almost every accessory available. That's a good deal too.
XM will be a big deal to me once the fascists get Stern off the radio and he goes to Satellite.
Still hoping for a Mazdaspeed3 Hatch by 2006. It'd be the perfect thing to replace my BMW. I'd trust the Mazda to keep running.
I didn't bother to read the rest of the posts, so if this has been answered don't shoot me, but please answer this question again.
Thanks.
(and yes, I posted this same post on the "problems" board too).
I get 20k miles on my 16s, so 35k would be a huge jump!
and I'll be shelling out $800 for tires every 1.5 to 2 yrs if that is the case.
Uh, where are you buying tires? 17s cost 100-125 now. They're common now.
Can the 3s Sedan 16 inch tires go on the hatch model? If so, there are a lot more variety 205/55/16 tires on the market compared to the 205/50/17s. And you can actually find them that have 50,000 mile warranty.
50k warranty on performance tires? you're buying something with no performance ability at all if you get ANY longevity warranty.
I love the 3s Hatch, but the 17s are a deal breaker for me if those are the only way to go.
You can downsize the tires aftermarket, sell someone else your new 17s for a break even. Of course the 3's handling will be compromised by the flaccid rubber you put on it.
Blueguy- how in the world are you having to change your 16s every 20K miles? What kind of driving do you do?
"Uh, where are you buying tires? 17s cost 100-125 now. They're common now."
Well, most the ones I researched were $150-$200, but my point was that with their wear life I'm not thrilled about paying money every 18-24 months for tires.
"50k warranty on performance tires? you're buying something with no performance ability at all if you get ANY longevity warranty."
I'm not as concerned with the sportiness of the wheels as I am with the hp, decent fuel economy, and utility of the cargo space. Those are the aspects I like most about this vehicle. And a simple internet search by the size of the s Sedan's tires brought back several tires that carry a warranty at the 205/55/16 size. Some were 40K, some were 50K warranties. In general, won't the tires they put on the s Sedan have a longer wear life. Will going to the 16s hurt my mpgs at all?
17 inch tires are a lot more common now, and there's a wide variety of tires available, if you check around. For instance, TireRack list Kumho Ecsta ASX tires, which are an "all season performance" tire, and they're only $70 each. Even Michelin Pilor Sport A.S. is under $200. THen there's the Nokian W.R. series, which is also available in the 17 inch wheel size for the Mazda3, and an excellent snow tire as well as 4 season tire.
Plus there's lots of performance, summer-only, and touring tires available. I just know the performance all-seasons because that's what I'm planning on purchasing come November. The only ones that cost $200 to buy are the OEMs tires, which just aren't worth that much.
Every corner is an opportunity.
Well, most the ones I researched were $150-$200, but my point was that with their wear life I'm not thrilled about paying money every 18-24 months for tires.
Someone else suggested kumho. Go that route and you get a decent peforming tire, with average life and a great price.
Will going to the 16s hurt my mpgs at all?
No. Probably about the same or a slight bump.
regards,
kyfdx
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CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF IT WOULD BE WORTH MY WILD TO WAIT A MONTH OR SO TO GET A DISCOUNTED PRICE ON A MAZDA3????
Why do you think you would get a discounted price on the 3 in a month or so? I suppose the '05s could be out by then, but there's no telling. Plus, you might have VERY slim pickings in terms of '04s - you'd be unlikely to get the configuration you wanted.
Talk to a dealer, see how low you can get the price, if it doesn't get low enough, tell them no thanks, maybe in a few months... they may come down a little further. Then buy.
I will pick one though.
I FIGURED THAT IF I WAITED A MONTH OR TWO I COULD GET A DISCOUNTED 'O4' AND IF I COULD NOT FIND THE ONE I WANTED I COULD JUST GET AN 'O5' AT THE PRICE I WOULD GET AN 'O4' FOR RIGHT NOW.
PLEASE TELL ME IF I AM WRONG ANYONE.
Meade
Hard to imagine what they are doing at 47-48 psi. I can't believe the dealer set them there on purpose. Do they come from the factory at this high pressure for some reason and the dealer just forgot to bring them down?
I am planning to re-set them to the recommended level of 32 psi. Is everyone pretty much using this setting or are some of you getting better performance at different settings?
Also are there any other "frequently wrong on delivery" items that I should be especially careful to check at this time? Thanks.
I never take a test drive, much less delivery, of a new car without my tire gauge in hand. I also routinely retorque the wheel bolts to whatever the correct setting is [somewhere in the 75-80 Ft-lb range, depending on manufacturer] with my own torque wrench. These are frequently overtightened and/or uneven, which can result in rotor warping the first time the brakes get hot.
abarlow
My '90 Protege took Mazda 2 trys of newly design parts to finally cured the A/C mildew smell.
http://www.mlive.com/prnewswire/prnauto.ssf?/cgi-bin/stories.pl?A- CCT=mlive2.story&STORY=/www/story/08-02-2004/0002222981&E- DATE=
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regards,
kyfdx
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But, there is a big difference between front-wheel and rear-wheel drive. For good handling, regardless of the drive wheels, you want the tires with the best traction on the rear. So, if you are putting new tires on one axle, they should always go on the rear, otherwise you are inviting extreme oversteer. So....for front-wheel drive, I would insist on four winter tires.. for rear-wheel, maybe you can get by with two, but I like to stop and steer as well as accelerate, so I'll take four then, also.
regards,
kyfdx
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For me it came down to the Focus ZX5 and the Mazda3 hatch. I thought the ZX5 was actually slightly more fun to drive than the 3, and it was less expensive, but ultimately I felt like the car was cheapy made, unlikely to be as reliable as a 3 (even in its first model year), and didn't look as good.
If the Vibe had better low-end torque on the 170hp engine, it might have beaten out the 3 for me.
I think of the Impreza as a small station wagon so I mentally excluded it from the comparison. But it can be a real deal; I've seen then advertised under $17k in my area with the bonus of AWD. I suppose the PT Cruiser is in the picture too but for me the novelty has worn off. If I were to get something like that I'd probably go for a small minivan like the MPV instead.
So Japan eventually rejected the Toyota Volts(Vibe) imported from California.
Strange, the Corolla also built in the same Vibe factory is ok.
By the way, they all got a driving position unfit, literally, for humans unless you got short legs, long arms, or both.
The Euro-spec Corolla/Verso got telescopic steering wheel starting '05.
The 3 handles great on dry roads but in my opinion it is terrible in snow, ice, slush, etc.
I know...most cars have their problems under these conditions but I have never experienced anything like this before.
I will definitely be putting 4 winters on come fall and feel anyone who drives in REAL winter conditions should prepare to have to do so also.
BTW..under the same driving conditions..my 99 Acura 3.2 TL with Traction Control and All Seasons handled great.
My $.02 worth.
everfeb
(Did I read that Mazda has put different A/S on more recent 3 models?)
This fall I will be putting 16" wheels with higher profile winters on. First time in 40 years of driving that I'll be buying winter tires.
everfeb
I switch from the stock 17" to 16" aftermarket alloys with dunlop a2's (dedicated winter tires)in a slightly narrower tread (as narrow as i could find in this profile) when snow season hits. The car handles quite well in winter with the improved tires. No studs or chains, just a better winter compound that tends to stay soft and pliable in temperatures of -35 to -40 C (which is about -40F).
The stock RSA's are really poor in anything but dry conditions. Even where there is just a slight drizzle they tend to squirm a little. Not all that dangerous when slightly wet, but enough to make me think twice.
By the way, at -25C or colder, my car can't clear the side windows of frost, so visibility isn't great. And right now my AC doesn't get the car very cold.
So, the M3 is just like baby bear. Its a wonderful car as long as its not too hot, and not too cold.