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I'm gonna go hop over to the "Questions for Car Dealers" thread on this.
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How much did you pay and what kind of options did you get?
Also, the Winning Blue is great. I could have taken the Titanium, but thought it would look duller after a while, and it has the red cloth and I wanted blue.
Meade
This happens a lot if the trade in needs work or if more is owed on it than it's worth.
My car's trade in value per Edmunds was about 5.5k, I still owed 5.2k, the car was mechanically perfect but needed serious smoking odor work, and major detailing-not cheap. My new car was written up at sticker price, but they wrote up my trade as 6500 so I figure I actually got about at least 1k off the new car. The overtrade made my downpayment look better (I added no cash down) so I got a little better interest rate and the loan went thru easier.
So, yeah, I paid sticker price for the new car on paper, but they also gave me at least 1k more for my old car than it was really worth to them, so in reality I did get a discount.
FYI, I've noticed that at 71 mph on the interstate the car's turning around 3200 rpms. Is that also about normal? My old car didn't have a tach...
When car was new - during break in - I was getting 21-23 MPG in mixed city/highway.
IMO if you drive carefully - no fast starts - you can do OK - but if you like to rev the engine you pay a large penalty.
I think Mazda should have put a larger gas tank in the Mazda3 - I am only getting 225 miles per tank.
1. The car topped 2k miles.
2. I'd been pushing the car a lot harder, and even drag raced a couple of times.
So either the engine doesn't get REALLY "broke in" until 2k, or it gets better mileage when being pushed hard. I dunno, I'll have to see what the next tank turns up. It's also possible that winding the engine out a couple of times heats it up and lets everyhting in the engine seat itself very well. Might be worth some experimentation.
Hope this helps. Daryl
Since my last fill up I've been letting her out a bit more, revving higher before shifting and getting up to cruise faster. I'm at just under 1/4 tank and have travelled 80 miles. When I was trying for good mileage by shifting sooner etc, the same spot on the fuel guage was usually reached after 60-70 miles.
My engine is just over 1k miles.
On every Toyota or Nissan I've had any experience with full break-in reflected by best mpg and performance usually took 2-6k miles.
EDIT: never mind.. I see it here on Edmunds.. I even checked Mazda's website, because the number for the 3 seemed too low, but they have the same number... GEEZ.. my CR-V has 72 cu.ft with the seats down.. I would have never guessed the number was that low on the Mazda hatch. Anyone have any trouble getting larger stuff in?
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There was a discussion a while ago.
As I recall, the 3 measure up to the top of the seat back and the imprezza measures up to the roof or something like that.
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Are there any cyclists/racers with the 3 hatch? Is there adequate room in the hatch for wheels, trainer, etc. I’m an injured racer who hopes/plans on racing again next year, perhaps with a 3 5-door.
But, my bikes will be in the hatch maybe 20-30 times a year so if it is a little cramped, which will happen unless you have a van or Malibu Maxx,
the frequency is not so often that it's an inconvienience. My wife's V70 holds it better, but still fills up fast with all my gear.
Daryl
Can anyone please tell me if any of you were charge $200 for advertising fee when purchasing a Mazda 3, b/c the dealership where I went insist in charging me $200 for advertising fee, which I have never heard of before. I was wondering if this is usually? What should I do? Also, how much is tax anyway when purchasing a Mazda 3 hatchback. Is there a certain rate? Example, if my car comes out to be $16,780, how much should I exoect the tax to be? And how much is for tags?
Thank you very much
Just ask your salesperson to see an official document from Mazda showing this charge. If they can't then maybe it isn't legit, but I bet this is what the charge is for.
As far as taxes, since I am not sure where you are located, you just take the negotiated price of the car ( in your case $16,780) multiplied by your city/state tax rate to get the $$ amount of tax. I don't think any state/registration fees are taxed - someone else can answer this for sure.
Good luck with your negotiation!
If it's as high as say, the Pontiac Vibe I once drove, I'll probably stop thinking about it. It's not that high, is it?
Meade
Meade
Thank you very much