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BMW 3-Series 2006

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Comments

  • nkeennkeen SE PennaPosts: 313
    re the A/C, with mine the problem is not the initial cool-down (after venting the car) when the A/C runs in recirc mode. It's on a longer drive after the system settles down with temp set to, say, 68, and recirc/fresh set to auto. I find myself dialing mine down step by step to 62 on a hot humid day (one notch above 60 ,which forces max operation) to maintain a comfort level. However on a frigid night, 78 is needed to maintain comfort. In my TL I could set the temp to 70 and leave it there. In the BMW the system is plenty powerful -- it's the inability to adequately factor in bright sunlight, ambient humidity and the radiant heating effect of a hot interior when adjusting itself that's the problem. In the TL, cars with nav supposedly even figure the relative position of the sun into the equation.

    Re window tint,etc., you shouldn't have to resort to messing the car's standard trim up to get things comfortable.
  • It seems to idle at about 600 to 700...the idle does seem rougher than when the car was new but not unacceptable. The car seems to shift fine. The problem is only when shifting when the car is still.
    The car already has window tint...hard not to with the heat here in Arizona....switching to manually controlling the a/c is working better but we'll see if the a/c can handle the 115 degree days...last summer I thought I was going to die. I've been in many other cars...rentals, friends and they all can cool the car down in that heat even without window tint....BMW should not have an auto climate control if they are not going to design it to work right. Its sad my 1988 ford from years ago had auto climate control that worked great and believe it or not I had fewer problems with that car.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,664
    If cooling is top priority, choose light colored interior and exterior for the next car. Reflect that punishing sun energy rather than absorbing it.

    Also, find any shade you can to park the car in. The HVAC system will work much better than a totaly baked interior with no venting upon beginning your neext drive. I know many people are using their auto start systems to pre-cool the car but in direct sun on a 100 deg day, even this will only be a partial fix and a lot more expensive!

    If you've got a black/black car in Arizona or New Mexico, you will no doubt need a cooling suit such as used in IRL DESPITE the AC at full blast.

    Regards,
    OW
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Wow...115 degrees...I think even the AC in my brand new Toyota would be toast at that temperature.

    Well I have to give credit where credit is due, and American cars always did have the best AC in the world.

    I always tell people---look, see if you can find an identical car at the dealer and test its AC---if it's as good/bad as yours, then that's what you have to work with. You can't give the car back (presumably) so if you have to add options to improve AC performance, or go to manual operation, then you have do, or just suffer.

    Some cars are just not up to the task of an Arizona climate. I'd be no less annoyed than you.

    Maybe the system can be tested for system health, vent temperatures, refrigerant levels, etc.
  • In response to the previous post the car is sonoran metallic which is light exterior with tan interior.
    To Mr Shiftright....your toyota would do fine...my parents 2006 Camry has no tinted windows and it gets very comfortable pretty fast....and yes the auto a/c in the toyota works like a charm...set it and forget it. Bought my BMW in Feb so had no idea how bad the a/c was...but seems to better in manual mode...so I just have to do it myself. Seems the system was designed poorly and doe snot account for sun or even interior temperature. The heat on the other hand I have to turm off in the winter cause it gets too hot.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    I've driven both of my BMWs in one-hundred plus degree temperatures, one of which was Sapphire Black with a Black leather interior, and never had a problem getting/keeping the interior cool.

    In the case of my two cars, the manual clearly stated that for maximum cooling of the interior (i.e. initial cool-down stage) you should select the "Max" button and leave it engaged until the car interior is comfortable. Once the initial cool-down has been achieved, you can disengage the "Max" mode, however, in extreme heat circumstances, you might then want to engage the "Automatic recirculate air control" (AUC) so that the right side LED is turned on so that you aren't pulling in hot outside air.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • davidd3davidd3 Posts: 582
    Reporting back after finally having my car (2006 330i) serviced today. Mrs. D did the honors. Engine was not making the ticking noise at drop-off. At first it was just as I feared. No noise + no OBC problem indicator = no problem from their point of view. A call late morning to say the car was ready. Mrs. D picked it up after work. Written report stated "unable to duplicate or verify at this time." Then we got lucky. Engine suddenly started making the noise again just as my wife was taking delivery. They listened and said it is the lifters. Said they just finished working on a car with the same problem. They are ordering parts. In the meantime we are back in our car and they say there is no damage being done by driving it.

    And the loaner? That was a bummer. No 335. At first they put Mrs. D in a 5-Series for the first time. She was admiring it inside and out, but soon realized the power seat wasn't working and she couldn't get close enough to drive the car. Had to give it up for a 328xi in what she referred to as an embarrassing bright blue color. She went on to complain that it felt sluggish as compared to our car. Must be the combination of less hp (328 i/o 330) and added weight (xi i/o i).
  • beemer777beemer777 Posts: 13
    Hi David Thanks for the update. Glad to hear your dealer is fixing the lifter. As I said, my dealer actually heard the noise and said it's normal with the 330i's engine. I'll be back at them now with that Automobile Mag article and your input. Unfortunately I don't expect my dealer to cave, but maybe I'll get a surprise. They shouldn't be surprised then either when my lease is up and I opt out of BMW :lemon: for another brand.
    If you have a chance David, let me know how the repair works out.
    Eddie
  • davidd3davidd3 Posts: 582
    Eddie,

    I'll report back after the repair is done.

    In the meantime, I wish you well in your endeavors to get your dealer to recognize what sounds like the same problem with your car.

    David
  • dhanleydhanley Posts: 1,531
    This may be a stupid question, but why are you getting worked up about a potential 'problem' with your *leased* bmw that isn't affecting you?
  • dkg42dkg42 Posts: 11
    I just read your post about the 2006 3251 brakes..mine has the same problem.

    Did you have any luck getting the brakes adjusted? I've driven two other 06-325i's that did not have the problem. I've taken it to two dealerships, both told me thats bmw brakes. I find that hard to beleive. Two weeks ago, the dealer flushed the brake fluid, no difference. Now they want to update the software, not sure if that will help.

    The service writer, claimed my car was an early production made in sept of 2005 and BMW had changed the brake assembly to fix this problem shortly thereafter to fix this problem. If that's true, I have to fight the dealership to replace the brake assembly with the newer version.
  • amiramir Posts: 115
    i have an 06 330i sport.i wana know when should i change my air filter.i have 21k miles on the caqr and havent changed the air filter yet.i dono if its covered in the maintenence.and also tht hoe often should i do the wheel allignment since i have sport package.
  • carnaughtcarnaught Desert SWPosts: 2,966
    The scheduled free maintenance with BMW is interesting. They told me to come in for my 30,000 mi. "check-up" which they did but would not change my oil till the car's computer indicated it. Therefore, my car at now over 31,000 mi. has only had one oil change thus far! They assured and reassured me that this was "normal" and "no problem" for today's BMW.

    I'm glad I'm leasing the car because I have my doubts about this. I'm sure the intervals recommended for doing a given service would be quite a bit different if the consumer was paying for it.
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    Oil's fine. If the car indicates it needs a change, then do it. If the car is beyond 1 year since the last change, the dealership will change it for free too.

    The 46 had the same setup and I know many people with late 90s and early 2000s e46s that have zero engine problems.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Due to the way my driving profile shaped up during the last year or so with my 530i, the OLM didn't recommend an oil change for a full 19,000 miles! ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 13,663
    My X3 asks for a change every 15K... Go figure ;)

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 164,799
    Ours is averaging about 15,800 between services..

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 21,461
    I think my 528iA would go that long if I'd let it but I start getting antsy as soon as I pass the 5000 mark which is about the time the first service indicator bar goes out, leaving three remaining. I usually end up changing oil and rotating tires every 7500-800 miles or so.

    There's a lively debate going on in Roundel about BMW Service and Oil Change intervals. The mag's Tech Guru is very scornful of BMW's current policies and so are most of the readers.

    A few technically knowledgeable readers think that given new materials and modren oils it's fine to adhere to longer intervals.

    I fall somewhere in between. There's no way I'd let a tire rotation go longer than the stated 7-8K (15K is a prescription for disaster IMO).BTW I get nice even tire wear.

    If I'm gonna be in for tires I might as well get fresh oil/filter.;)

    I can't imagine not replacing the ATF for 100K miles, I change every 60 or 70K. It's cheap insurance, transmission failures being a lot more common than busted engines,and nearly as expensive. :surprise:

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • tcn2ktcn2k Posts: 277
    Oil interview debate has always been going on and changing your car oil early is on your dime, 15k is fine as you stated with modern oils. I own 3 bimmers and my first one I kept the 15k miles and 7 years later, it is still running fine. My second is kept to the same schedule and so far, it fantastic. I plan to keep the same dealio on my 2007 335i, I see NO point in changing the oil that early and throwing away my money. My opinion is, tech guys in those mags doesn't not the inner working of the bimmer engine and they are still stuck to the old philosophy.

    As for tire rotation, why bother? 50/50 weight distribution doesn't call for it and my tires where worn out almost the same.

    As for ATF, I still have the same ATF in my first car and no problem either.

    But I guess over all if you can get a better sleep at night, why not.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,664
    On the past American fare I owned, I would NEVER go 15K synthetic or no.

    With this '06 330, it was no problem going the 15K miles until first oil change. Besides, it's their $10K for a new engine!

    Regards,
    OW
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 21,461
    As for tire rotation, why bother? 50/50 weight distribution doesn't call for it and my tires where worn out almost the same.

    My 528iA doesn't have a 50/50 weight dist., it's more like
    52/48. Secondly there are other considerations, e.g. braking which is much harder on the fronts. In addition
    BMW rear suspensions are notorious for causing the inner
    treads to wear more quickly on the rears.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    With a sport package, tire rotation isn't really all the easy to achieve. You have to literally remove the tire from the wheels to swap as ZSP tires are unidirectional and staggered. That's expensive and not worth it imho.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 13,663
    There's a lively debate going on in Roundel about BMW Service and Oil Change intervals. The mag's Tech Guru is very scornful of BMW's current policies and so are most of the readers.

    Mike Miller is a very bright guy who knows BMWs inside and out- and chooses to err on the side of caution. On my BMWs the oil gets changed at 7500 miles, regardless of what the SI system says. The reason? I ran Mobil 1 0W-40(a BMW LL-01 approved oil, BTW) in my wife's X3 for 9000 miles and then had Blackstone Labs perform a used oil analysis. The TBN was very low and Blackstone stated that the oil would have been good for an additional 1000 miles at most. And I'm supposed to run it 5000 more miles after that? I think not. And who knows how long the oil will hold up under the higher operating temperatures seen on the 335i- especially any that are taken to a HPDE from time to time?
    As for the transmission and final drive, I change their oil at 30K intervals on my 3er(which has a manual box and a limited slip final drive-and sees a bit of track use). I'll change the slushbox and final drives of the truck at 60K.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • timnytimny Posts: 142
    I am coming at this thread late but am hoping someone out there can answer a related question about mounting euro plates on US-model BMWs. I have a 2006 330i with the standard US plate mounts front and rear. I am living in CT now and am wondering a) is it legal to have a "faux" plate mounted on the front bumper in CT (anyone know)?, b) where can I buy a mount for a euro-plate?, and c) can the US standard plate mount be removed and replaced with a euro plate mount without damaging the bumper or leaving open screw-holes exposed?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    We do this all the time in California and never get hassled, so I'd just do it (keeping your regular front plate on, of course) and if nobody bothers you, fine. I think to run two front plates you'll have to fabricate something yourself or have it done.

    If you were thinking of discarding your front US plate, that will definitely get you a ticket.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 21,461
    IMO they'll cite you for anything in CT, I once was nailed for flashing my brights during the daytime. :confuse:

    Needless to say I ignored it and am still persona non grata in the Nutmeg State.

    Boo hoo. :P

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The popularity of this car astounds me. I test drove one Friday, and found it acceptable on the freeway at high speeds - that's where it has legs. But around town, it's harder to move than a waste bin. I had my foot in it all day, just to get it going, and the steering was barely assisted at that speed. A very miserable car to push around town, IMO. What is the fascination with this car, everyone? What am I missing?

    BTW, loved the little cupholder that is cooled. In a very bad place however.....but cute.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,664
    I beg to differ. I have 180 degree different perspective. This car is great even with the A/T!

    Regards,
    OW
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    If you can't tell, we can't help you. Just go back to driving a FWD...
  • davidd3davidd3 Posts: 582
    Which year/model did you drive?

    You are unimpressed, but as compared to what may we ask? What do you like so much better as to be unimpressed with a 3-Series?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    If you can't tell, we can't help you. Just go back to driving a FWD...

    Perhaps you can't, but if you took the time to check my profile, you'd see I have no FWD cars in my fleet.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You are unimpressed, but as compared to what may we ask? What do you like so much better as to be unimpressed with a 3-Series?

    You may. The Lexus IS. The Mazda 3 (don't vomit, please, I know it's a far lesser car, but was a lot more fun to drive around town). Mercedes C-240 Kompressor.

    I'm not trying to insult anybody here, I'm honestly asking why anybody prefers this car over the Lexus or Mercedes. (The Mazda, I understand....).
  • rayainswrayainsw Posts: 3,091
    "I'm not trying to insult anybody here, I'm honestly asking why anybody prefers this car over the Lexus or Mercedes."

    = = =

    One reason the 335 remains of interest to me ( though I currently drive a Corvette, I expect to return to a sedan next time around ) is summed up here:

    “The 2007 335i sprints to 60 mph in just 4.9 seconds and blitzes the quarter-mile in 13.4 seconds at 103.9 mph — and all this with an automatic transmission.” – Edmunds recent test

    Those numbers, combined with traditional BMW handling & braking ability, attention to all dynamics as well as reasonable interior room & quality mean that the 335i is a truly outstanding performance machine – in my humble opinion.

    The fact that the BMW’s automatic blips the throttle to match revs on downshifts is ( apparently ) a non-trivial accomplishment. My 2007 C6 does not do this – though the Brochure says it does.

    The Vishnu tune that ups the HP & TQ even further would be of interest, should I purchase one.

    The IS250 is clearly not even close in acceleration to a 335i, though in Edmunds test, the IS350 managed 13.8 @ 101.2. Not slow. But the BMW, at 0.4 seconds quicker, offers an additional degree of acceleration capability that many people could discern – and appreciate, when driven on the street.

    I drove the 335i Coupe w/automatic before deciding to order my Corvette. The Corvette is quicker – but I certainly did not consider the BMW slow . . .

    So I don’t understand your comments regarding “harder to move than a waste bin”. . .

    Again: You do not state what year & model you drove. My neighbor’s old ( 7 model years ? ) 325 is not very quick – but a new 335 certainly is.

    - Ray
    Curious . . .
    2016 BMW 340i
  • davidd3davidd3 Posts: 582
    You still haven't told us which model you test drove.

    Bottom line though, no point in our trying to sell you on a car you personally tested and found to be unimpressive. No matter how much we like the car, it's not the right one for you.
  • davidd3davidd3 Posts: 582
    Finally got the call my car was ready last Friday, 2 weeks to the day after I dropped it off. It was supposed to take 1 week but ended up taking 2 weeks because they didn't have the foresight to order the necessary "tools" when they ordered the parts. Went there to pick up but noticed a nasty scratch. They checked their pics and admitted their responsibility. I ended up leaving the car there, for who knows how much longer. They said they'll take it somewhere on Monday to get it fixed and it'll be ready on Tuesday. We shall see.

    Anyway, before noticing the scratch, I received the paperwork on the lifter procedure. Here's the lengthy description, if it may be helpful for anyone experiencing a similar problem:

    QUOTE
    Replacing all hydraulic valve clearance compensators (HVA). Engine hydraulic lifter order last visit as per shop foreman, battery disconnected, removed microfilter housing, removed all top plastic top engine covers, removed all DME connectors and wires across engine area, removed IGN coils, removed injector connectors, removed valve cover, removed valvetronic motor, removed spark PL UG CYL 1, and engine tyturn to set at TDC and installed spasial tool 11 0 300, alson on top of cams espresial tools 11 4 282 and 11 4 283 was installed and timing chain tensioner released and removed both exhaust and intake adjustment units, using expresial tool 11 4 270 return springs was removed from intake camshaft removed gude blocks and intermediate levers and replaced one by one lifter (roller cams followers) reinstalled springs and retorque all bolts. Removed exhause camshaft cover and removed camshaft replaced all lifters, installed espesial tool 11 4 460 on CYL valves 2, install camshaft back and cover and installled espesial valves 2, installed camshaft back and cover and installed espesial tools 11 4 461, and torque all bolts at specs, reinstalled espesial tool 11 4 280 and reinstalled exhaust and intake timing units replaced bolts and retorque, removed all tools and installed vavle cover using new aluminum bolts, reinstalled all parts and diagnostic head connected to relearn valvetronic motor and clear fault memories, engine starter OK, no noise can be heard, car was test droved OK and tested several times next day OK.

    They also did some other work on my car during the same visit. Annual maintenance for year 2 at 30,000 miles. In response to my old complaint about a stuck rear cupholder, they installed a part which they had previously ordered. In response to my new complaint that the car sometimes takes a few presses of the start button to start, they detected a defective starter motor and replaced it.
  • carnaughtcarnaught Desert SWPosts: 2,966
    Out of curiosity, what kind of loaner did they give you to drive during this service period? Since the car had to stay longer due to their putting a scratch on it, what are they doing to "pacify" you? Is this a leased or bought car?
  • davidd3davidd3 Posts: 582
    The loaner was and still is a 328xi, silver exterior, black interior, premium package, with a tacky #71 on the windshield and rear glass.

    My car (2006 330i) is leased, and since I am over the pace of my 15k per year, it actually works out well to let it sit in the shop for a few weeks while I put miles on their car. Nearing 1,000 miles now in 2+ weeks. Where I would hesitate to use my car due to mileage issue, I don't hesitate to use their car for anything and everything (except hauling home a couple of TVs from Costco).

    That said, I of course prefer my own car to their loaners. When they had to put us back into a loaner after discovering the scratch, Mrs. D half-jokingly asked for a convertible. Nope. I half-jokingly asked for an M. Laughter. How about a 5-er? Nope. How about that white 328xi someone just returned? Nope. They put us back in the same loaner. Probably worked out easier from a paperwork perspective to just act as though we didn't return it yet. So they did nothing special to pacify us, unless you count supposedly expediting the repair on the scratch. We'll see if the car is really ready tomorrow as promised.

    By the way, the loaner car came without an owner's manual and with grossly under-inflated tires. I realized the tire issue on day 1 and added air on day 2. Then the tire pressure warning indicator came on. Wanted to check the owner's manual for what it was and how to get rid of it, but it was nowhere to be found. I instead got help in a forum. I didn't get an opportunity to complain about those things yet.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 4,877
    Thanks much for keeping us informed on all of this. I'm seriously contemplating a 3 for my next car, and information such as what you've been posting is very helpful.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • carnaughtcarnaught Desert SWPosts: 2,966
    Thanks much for keeping us informed on all of this. I'm seriously contemplating a 3 for my next car, and information such as what you've been posting is very helpful.

    Well then take this into account: Now with my 2006 3 Series just having turned 34000 miles, NOT ONE SINGLE PROBLEM.
  • davidd3davidd3 Posts: 582
    Car was not ready today as promised. Call 1: Mrs. D called this morning to confirm our car would be ready for pickup this afternoon. The SA confirmed, telling her he would send someone over to the body shop to pick up our car. Call 2: SA calls back to say our car was in fact not yet ready but might be ready later. Call 3: SA calls back to say our car will not be ready today after all. Hoping for Thursday now (tomorrow is a no can do for Mrs. D even if the car is ready). That would be 1 day shy of 3 weeks in the shop. :(

    But at the rate I'm going, maybe I won't have to pay for excess miles at the end of my lease after all! :D
  • Hey guys, after having my heart set on an Audi A4 Quattro, I took my brothers advice and took out a BMW.

    What a difference!

    I just put signed the papers on a 2006 BMW 330i - 24,000 kms/14912 miles over 1.5 years, driven by an 82 year old man who traded it in for a Lexus LS 430 (he was a life long Cadillac driver - so he's more of a cruiser than a sports car guy).

    Body is in perfect shape and it came with a set of winters on rims...all for an awesome price. I'm thrilled.

    Anything I should be aware of as a new BMW driver? and I have an option to extend my 4 year/80000 kms warranty to 6 years 160000 kms for $2550.00.

    Is it worth it?
  • carnaughtcarnaught Desert SWPosts: 2,966


    Anything I should be aware of as a new BMW driver? and I have an option to extend my 4 year/80000 kms warranty to 6 years 160000 kms for $2550.00.


    Yes, don't own a (any) German car out of some sort of warranty as repairs are expensive. Check the price and conditions offered to you for the extended warranty and compare to independent extended warranties. It also depends on how long you intend to keep the car.

    Great car, btw. You'll love it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I always advise people who call me or write to me about extended warranties to seriously consider buying one for a German car. Of course you should only do this if you are in the habit of keeping your cars past warranty. One could also argue that even IF you don't keep the car past warranty, and if your extended warranty is transferable, you can then use the extended warranty as a sales tool when you dispose of the car.

    Unless you are a FIY-er, or you have a friend in the repair business, your exposure to post-warranty repairs on a German car is just too much of a risk. Some get lucky, some don't.
  • dhanleydhanley Posts: 1,531
    I'm going to sound a little dissent--if you have a good indie mechanic, and older bmw isn't necessarily so bad. I just had my imspection 2 done, and my radiator/thermostat replaced, and spent a whole $500.

    In any case, the company issuing the warranty obviously expects to spend less than the cost of the warranty, or they wouldn't issue it. It's insurance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    True, true but even you, with a good indie mechanic, could get hit with a nose-bleeding repair bill.

    But you are right--the warranty company is betting against you. That's a very good point.
  • I have decided to go with the warranty - and for two main reason. Yes, there is a deductible with each visit, but it is cut in half if I goto the dealer. But most importantly, IF I do not use the warranty for anything during the warranty period then I get $2000.00 of the $2550.00 back. And of course I can choose to use the warranty or pay out of pocket depending on the cost.

    Thanks for your opinion(s).
  • dhanleydhanley Posts: 1,531
    "True, true but even you, with a good indie mechanic, could get hit with a nose-bleeding repair bill."

    True; I often consider this fact when trying to convince myself to buy a neat new 335i( or 135i or boxster). :)

    I get the impression that any modern car can be very pricey to repair--my cousins's a pontiac mechanic and i hear horror stories--but maybe i've been lucky. I've had some bills along the way but it's always been a pittance compared to car payments.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I think most people are "lucky" but an extended warranty is really for those who won't be lucky. As you say, the insurance company (warranty company, whatever) is betting that you WILL be lucky.

    It's true that most modern cars are $$$ to fix, but the German cars are sometimes more complex, requiring more labor time, and the parts prices generally exceed those of most other cars. You break the headlight assembly on a newer highline Audi? That can cost you $1,000. Power steering hose on some BMWs? How about $600 bucks? That's gotta hurt. Let's not even talk about Porsche with the GT's $4,500 brake rotors.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,664
    Heck, the A/C evaporator replacement on a simple GMC Yukon was $826. I would think a current/future BMW repair considering the added tech will more than validate the warranty cost.

    I would buy it but that brings up another question...Is there coverage beyond 6/100K? That is where the next demarcation is for keep/sell decisions.

    Regards,
    OW
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I would imagine that buying an extended warranty past 100K for a BMW would be prohibitively expensive.

    I know some people don't want to hear this, but if someone asks me my advice, I usually advise them to think about disposing of their BMW just before the 100K mark. I think we reach the law of diminishing returns on these cars at about that point.....that is, the cost per month for a high level of reliability, cosmetics and maintenance reaches an uncomfortable level.

    I mean, if you are shelling out $275 a month to keep an old BMW in top fettle, (averaging out maintenance and major repair work, like a transmission) and there are lease deals at $389, well it's tempting to start all over again....
This discussion has been closed.