My apology for misleading you – 425 is for single set tire/wheel. Shipo is right – for a complete set of four tireS/wheelS it would be around 1700 (plus work to put them on?) So, is it more or less good deal? How about aftermarket wheels and tire pressure monitor? Compatible or not?
I think... if you look around, you could buy a second set of stock wheels off of Ebay or in one of the enthusiast forum's classified section for around $700-$800... A lot of people want to upgrade to 17", but didn't get the sport package.. Add in the cost of the tires, and you are only around $1200 for a set, and no worries about wheel compatibility...
I think they're telling you that you NEED to buy the OEM BMW wheels with snow tires so they can make a lot of money off of you. I'm suprised they didn't throw you the old "if you but any other wheels besides OEM BMW wheels, it will void your entire warranty" line.
I'd call up Tire Rack. They're very knowledgeable and aren't just looking to make a quick sale.
That being said, I read in the "BMW MAGAZINE" about how the E90 was developed specifically to use Run Flat Tires. Everything from the wheels to suspension... Basically saying that the BMW engineers are smart and didn't just take away the spare tire/wheel at the end of the development process and add run flat tires just to reduce weight & increase trunk space as an afterthought.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I'd give odds that a set of Mille Miglia Spider II wheels will play just as nice with your TPMS as the factory wheels. Period, full stop, the end. As a bonus TireRack is currently running a closeout special on said wheel in the 16x7.5 size with the proper offset for the E90 325i. How much? How about $89.00 per wheel? Hmmm, sounds pretty good to me.
i know im not supposed to go over 4500rpm or 100mph but i did both a few times. I understand that it doesnt really matter- is this correct??? will this void the warranty or the maintenance?? Thanks in advance
has anyone ordered or seen a silver exterior with beige interior for the new 3 series.. i prefer this combination but the dealer does not have one. and also that when will the comfort access become available?
Maintenance costs on the A4 should be $0 unless you need a new set of tires, in which case it would be more than $334. Audi also includes a maintenance plan similar to BMW's.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think Audi's plan covers "wear and tear" items like brakes, wiper blades, lightbulbs, etc. I will say, however, as an A4 owner, I have gotten dealers to replace wiper blades and lightbulbs for no charge.... but I don't think that is part of the plan. Especially not brakes, which BMW definitely covers for free.
K, Please let us know how you made out with your inquiry at The Tire Rack. I have already ordered my 325i (w/ stock 16") and I am also interested in picking up snows. I am still trying to decide whether I want to put the snow on 16" or 17" wheels.
I kind of understand that they are trying to make money off of me (as usual ) but on the other hand in my eyes the car still looks much better with bmw wheels (with bmw logo on them) than with some other logo. Don’t you think so?
They will mark-up the bank fee to $825 from $625. I got sick of trying to argue it, so I just never brought it up and lowered my agreed upon price by $200. I also did the same thing with the money factor as I let them mark it up a little bit. I knew what payment and down I wanted to pay because I had already figured out what my ideal lease would be with no added fees, the base rates, and 1500 over invoice.
I told the dealer that payment and down and let them worry about how they wanted to get there. This is not really a popular way of doing things on this website, but it worked for me. I did however, put no capital cost reduction which everyone here would recommend. My dealer decided to lease me the car at just over invoice and mark up the fees and mf. Probably means the sales person gets nothing and all the commission goes to the F&I guy, but oh well.
Can you explain the difference here? You told the dealer how much down-payment you were willing to pay, but did not want a cap cost reduction. Aren't these the same things?
In my case, I knew how much my security deposit + registration fees + first month's payment would be. That was the amount I said I would put down. Capital cost reduction is a bad idea because you almost are always going to owe more than the car is worth. Because of this, BMW includes gap insurance to cover themself against any loss from theft or getting totalled. If you put cap reduction down and car the gets totalled the very next day, BMWFS will get paid off in full. There will be no money left over for you to get your down payment back. For those that put down 3-4k just to have a low monthly payment, you can kiss it goodbye. You are better off putting that down payment in an interest bearing account and subsidizing your monthly payment over the term of the lease. That way if the car gets totalled or stolen you let the gap insurance do its thing and go get another car without taking all the hit.
It would be useful to get the details of what the "signing" costs will be for BMW: security deposit, registration fees, etc. I know what to expect in terms of title and registration -- what else do they pile on?
I have seen some variability in the money factor being used by BMW as well -- ranging from .00025 to .00028. Experiences?
I spoke to Jim of Tirerack, and this what I found.
The winter package included 4 Mille Miglia Spider II wheels for 356 + 4 Blizzak WS-50 tires for 400, for a total of 756 + shipping. Spider II wheels are 16" x 7.5", with 40 mm offset (BMW style #156 is 16" x 7.0", with 40 mm offset, but he said the same size tire will fit in both Spider II and #156).
They have a new package is also available, and should show up on their site in a couple of weeks - another Mille Miglia (I forget the model), but that is 16" x 7.0", so should be identical to size & offset to #156, except for the spoke design. That will be for $300 total for 4 wheels.
The Blizzak tires, 4 for $400, are not RFT, but standard issue. His recommendation is you don't need RFT, you can use one of the wheels that come off in winter as spare in the trunk.
All the discussion about cannot use RFT apparently is just that. Apparently Mini has had RFT as original for sometime, and 50% of the second set of tires on them have been regular tires. I feel better after talking to Jim at TireRack, since I trust that's what he does for living, and knows what he is saying. He is not even trying to sell the more expensive RFT's to make more money. I appreciate his honesty.
As for me, I am going to try the regular tires for this winter, with one of the originals as spare, and see the difference myself so that I can make the right decision for the replacement for the originals. Also I will wait for the 16" x 7.0", just to make sure the dimensions are close to the #156's.
His recommendation is you don't need RFT, you can use one of the wheels that come off in winter as spare in the trunk.
Keep in mind you will be carrying a heavy, dirty wheel in your trunk for several months, plus a full size jack and lug wrench. Blizzak runflats in the 16" size are $146 each, meaning that for the $200 or so difference every couple years, you are spared this inconvenience.
FYI....tires that you purchase from BMW are coded ( little star ) on the tire. My service advisor ( I trust them ) told me that these tires are specificaly for BMW dealers and not same as you would buy from other tire places. So far that has been true...no problems with tires from the dealer, but had many from other sources. I am not telling you either way but just some info from my experience. Good Luck Regards, Webby
I guess you have a point. I will look into the Blizzak RFT.
Someone showed me there is a Pirelli RFT too in Tirerack. Anyone have thoughts on a good (including value) winter RFT. At the least a compo between Blizzak & Pirelli ?
Anyone out there know what the residual and money factors are for '06 and incidentally '05's? My dealer gave me the following residual on 325i is 61 for 15/k, money factor is .00250. Residual on the '06 3301 is 60 for 15/k and the money factor is .00250. He alson said he will ONLY charge me $45.00 for Doc fees, and 120.00 for NY license plates, registration, $10.00 for inspection , and $12.50 for tire tax. I am sure he will have the MACO when I go sign. What would be the capitalized cost? Pls. let me know asap. Thanks.
K, Thanks again for the info. I think I will also wait for the new 16" x 7.0" Mille Miglia. Do I have it right, they will only be $75/ea.? As to the snow tires, I have to agree with Corvette. I don't want to put one of my dirty standard tires in the truck as a spare and then have to add a jack, lug wrench, etc. I would just stick with the 16" RFT @ $148/ea.
I know im not supposed to go over 4500rpm or 100mph but i did both a few times. I understand that it doesnt really matter- is this correct??? will this void the warranty or the maintenance?? Thanks in advance
"Some tires from Tire Rack are designated "BMW" or other makes of car... I wonder if that's what the difference is? "
Good point...perhaps someone from Tire Rack can answer.
When you read the many reports ( Tire Rack ) on the same tire and car and how these opinions vary all over the place.....seems that the manufacturer has different grades of same tire.
I have almost 4k on my 3 series now and wanted to ask you guys if it is necessary to rotate the wheels on the bimmer. I have on some of my other vehicles but never really noticed a difference. I understand it's not part of BMW maintenance- so is that an indication that it's not necessary or should I shell out a few extra bucks and have them regularly rotated? If so where should I have the service done?
If "Yes" then you will not be able to rotate the tires.
If "No" then I would recommend rotating front to back, keeping the tires on the same side of the car. Personally I'm thinking that 7,500 miles is probably a good place to do the rotation.
I don't know if your wife can access your driving patterns, but one guy on another board asked how he could erase an address from the NAV, because he didn't want girl friend #1 to see that he had been visiting girl friend #2. My advice: next time use a map.
Your wife won't be able to read the ECU unless she works at a BMW dealership. And I believe it can only be reset after your Inspection I. I remember reading in other boards that when 2001-2003 M3 had this engine design problem, BMW checked how owners were treating their cars by means of this ECU readout. For the few episodes you flogged it, I would not worry. Just pray you don't have engine problems down the road, because if so, your warranty may be void. Again, I would suggest you just take it easy, don't squeeze at every light, and red line it, if you want to have a car for years to come. If you cannot refrain, dude you need something bigger, maybe an M3, M5, who knows. You may want to take the BMW Car School, 2 days at Spartansburg, SC to master skills and enjoy your car better. $0.02.
The October edition of Car and Driver includes a comparison test of sports sedans. The 330i came out on top, just as it did in the case of the other major auto mags which recently did comparison test with fewer competitors. Here's how they ranked 'em:
1. BMW 330i 2. Lexus IS350 3. Infiniti G35 4. Acura TL 5. Audi A4 6. Cadillac CTS 7. Volvo S60R 8. Saab 9-3 Aero
I haven't read the article yet, but I look forward to doing so soon. Enjoy!
While I have posted this to the lease forum for specific lease issues, I am interested in how this looks to folks who have purchased BMWs previously and have dealt with the dealers and finance organizations:
2006 325i Standard transmission Cold weather package Premium package Satellite radio Metallic paint
MSRP including $695 destination charge: $36,565
I have been quoted $35,365 ($1200 off MSRP) and the following lease deal:
36 months 18,000 miles per year 1st, last and acquisition fee, registration: $2,200 MF: .275 Residual: 61% Monthly payment w/tax: $582
I have also been given a second option of adding the following: Sports package Xeon headlights
with an MSRP of $38,965
and a purchase price of $37,295 lease terms are the same with a monthly payment of $612 with tax
Any comments and suggestions will be most appreciated.
The sports package is totally unnecessary on this car. All it does is complicate your tire situation, which is already complicated enough with the decision to go exclusively to run-flats. Yes, the E90 rides better with the sports package than the E46 did, but it is hardly necessary for everyday enjoyment of the car, and it makes the ride firmer with no special benefit unless you plan to drive the car very hard very regularly. If you're a track nut, fine; if you really drive the car on twisty roads every day, maybe....otherwise, this is just fru-fru.
Normally I keep my trap shut on this issue, because there is this "thing" out there in BMW land that the sports package is somehow "necessary" to enjoy this car. I say to anyone who wants to buck this trend - "good for you" - save your money up front, and more money every time you have to deal with those expensive tires. I don't pretend this is anything but a minority view, though in my frequent travels to Europe, I note that my informal "street polling" reveals that most BMW drivers there don't think the sports package is nearly as important as Americans seem to believe.
I would appreciate any comments comparing the 2006 325i against the 330i. I have been looking carefully at this car for some time (reading reviews and articles, these on-line forums, the brochure, test-drives, etc.; stopping just shy of beginning to talk price with a dealer), and by now I know the different specs very well. I will likely purchase (not lease) a 3-series this year, but am considering whether the few extra thousand dollars for the 330 are "worth it." I am only interested in stick, no sport package, simple Jet Black, no special add-ons, and I think the black leatherette is not too shabby (the WSJ review earlier this summer raved about it), and to be honest the leather didn't seem as high-quality as you might expect. (Plus we have a small child and a dog so clean-up is a factor.)
At this point I've priced a 330i stick, Jet Black, Black leatherette (w/ aluminum), and floor mats at MSRP $37,420 (which is pushing the upper end of my budget, but is doable). By comparison, a similarly equipped 325i, Jet Black, Black leatherette, w/ Power front seats ($995), Xenons ($800) and premium sound ($1200), plus say $1000 for 17" wheels (the ones that come standard on 330 don't seem to be offered as an option on the 325, so this is a guess, for direct comparison's sake), floormats, comes in around $35,515.
215 HP is certainly enough for my purposes, but I guess I wouldn't turn down 255. I've not done a driving comparison of both at the same time, but I assume I would feel the difference on the highway, etc. I'm interested in comments on the "intangibles" that distinguish the 330i from the 325i, based on folks' driving or ownership experience. (For example, I think the 330i's chrome accents look really cool.)
Would appreciate any thoughts, comments, or suggestions, including regarding price negotiations. For instance, based on comments on this forum, I think I could try for $36,000 on the above 330i with a straight face (Chicagoland area), but if folks think I could be more aggressive, I'd be interested in that too. (Unfortunately it will be obvious to a dealer that I want and intend to buy a 3 series, so I give up any real or imagined leverage that might bring.) Either way it's a very nice car.
You have a lot of options on the 325. Have you considered a 330? If you forego some of the packages and choose a 330, the price differential is not that much. It looks like a difference of about $2k, for a base 330 with the Satellite & Paint.
...I know what most people here are going to say, but I for one can't imagine why the 325 shouldn't be your first choice. On the other hand, if you're going to load it up with options to make it almost like a 330, then I would spend the extra money and get the 330. I just don't think the car needs xenons or premium sound or most particularly, 17" wheels to be enjoyable and fun to drive and own. If you really believe those are necessities, I would stretch and get the 330. For me, the difference between the cars is at least $4k or more, and that makes it a no-brainer in favor of the 325.
Like the sports package, I regard all factory sound system upgrades as pretty much a freebie boost to the manufacturer's bottom line, and just a complete waste of your dollars. At resale time, such upgrades are virtually worthless to a dealer and most private buyers. As in my comments above on the sports package, I expect to be shouted off the stage - as usual, it all depends on what you want and are willing to pay for.
The sports package is totally unnecessary on this car. All it does is complicate your tire situation, which is already complicated enough with the decision to go exclusively to run-flats. Yes, the E90 rides better with the sports package than the E46 did, but it is hardly necessary for everyday enjoyment of the car, and it makes the ride firmer with no special benefit unless you plan to drive the car very hard very regularly.
It's a personal thing. I find even a sport packaged equipped e46 (especially the 325i with the smaller 17s) to be a soft-buicky ride that wallows and floats too much. It all hinges on the driver. i'd rather not own a bmw if faced with only the option of owning a non-sport equipped car.
though in my frequent travels to Europe, I note that my informal "street polling" reveals that most BMW drivers there don't think the sports package is nearly as important as Americans seem to believe.
I can contact my friends in germany and france with bmws and I know they'd say otherwise for themselves...because they push their cars hard daily.
I would appreciate any comments comparing the 2006 325i against the 330i.
You indicated that you've taken test drives (although not at the same time)..... What did you think about the drives? I would definitely recommend driving both back-to-back. The drive isn't going to feel much different, except for the added power of the 330i.
As others have mentioned, if you add the xenons, premium sound, power seats, and 17" wheels to the 325i, you've got many of the options that the 330i has standard. At that point, it's almost worth it to consider a "base model" 330i..... My two cents.
i agree with you that the Sport Package is not "necessary". I only have Premium on my 330. Just ath i notice it's smoother with Sport. So Im voicing my opinion so that ppl can consider it. Im kinda sad that i didnt get the Sport. OTher than that, the car handles extremely well. Again, Sport- not necessary but something to consider. Like you guys said, it's all personal preferences.
Comments
So, is it more or less good deal? How about aftermarket wheels and tire pressure monitor? Compatible or not?
regards,
kyfdx
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I'd call up Tire Rack. They're very knowledgeable and aren't just looking to make a quick sale.
That being said, I read in the "BMW MAGAZINE" about how the E90 was developed specifically to use Run Flat Tires. Everything from the wheels to suspension... Basically saying that the BMW engineers are smart and didn't just take away the spare tire/wheel at the end of the development process and add run flat tires just to reduce weight & increase trunk space as an afterthought.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Best Regards,
Shipo
I like the idea of 4 x Spider II wheels for $356.
It also says 4 x Blizzak WS-50 tires for $400. I hope it is RFT. If it is, that's the lowest I have seen for a RFT yet.
I will call TireRack tomorrow and put in the order for my 325i.
Regards,
K
Thanks!
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think Audi's plan covers "wear and tear" items like brakes, wiper blades, lightbulbs, etc. I will say, however, as an A4 owner, I have gotten dealers to replace wiper blades and lightbulbs for no charge.... but I don't think that is part of the plan. Especially not brakes, which BMW definitely covers for free.
Please let us know how you made out with your inquiry at The Tire Rack.
I have already ordered my 325i (w/ stock 16") and I am also interested in picking up snows.
I am still trying to decide whether I want to put the snow on 16" or 17" wheels.
Thanks.
Joe
I am planning on leasing a 2006 325i set up as follows:
- metallic paint
- premium package
- cold weather package
- satellite radio
I am planning on a 36 month lease and 18,000 miles per year. I would likely put down $2500.
I am interested in what I might reasonably achieve in terms of final price, money factor, and ultimately, monthly payment.
Thanks.
However, I am interested in general experiences in dealing with negotiations with BMW.
Thanks.
I told the dealer that payment and down and let them worry about how they wanted to get there. This is not really a popular way of doing things on this website, but it worked for me. I did however, put no capital cost reduction which everyone here would recommend. My dealer decided to lease me the car at just over invoice and mark up the fees and mf. Probably means the sales person gets nothing and all the commission goes to the F&I guy, but oh well.
Can you explain the difference here? You told the dealer how much down-payment you were willing to pay, but did not want a cap cost reduction. Aren't these the same things?
Why are folks opposed to a cap cost reduction?
Thanks.
It would be useful to get the details of what the "signing" costs will be for BMW: security deposit, registration fees, etc. I know what to expect in terms of title and registration -- what else do they pile on?
I have seen some variability in the money factor being used by BMW as well -- ranging from .00025 to .00028. Experiences?
Thanks.
I spoke to Jim of Tirerack, and this what I found.
The winter package included 4 Mille Miglia Spider II wheels for 356 + 4 Blizzak WS-50 tires for 400, for a total of 756 + shipping. Spider II wheels are 16" x 7.5", with 40 mm offset (BMW style #156 is 16" x 7.0", with 40 mm offset, but he said the same size tire will fit in both Spider II and #156).
They have a new package is also available, and should show up on their site in a couple of weeks - another Mille Miglia (I forget the model), but that is 16" x 7.0", so should be identical to size & offset to #156, except for the spoke design. That will be for $300 total for 4 wheels.
The Blizzak tires, 4 for $400, are not RFT, but standard issue. His recommendation is you don't need RFT, you can use one of the wheels that come off in winter as spare in the trunk.
All the discussion about cannot use RFT apparently is just that. Apparently Mini has had RFT as original for sometime, and 50% of the second set of tires on them have been regular tires. I feel better after talking to Jim at TireRack, since I trust that's what he does for living, and knows what he is saying. He is not even trying to sell the more expensive RFT's to make more money. I appreciate his honesty.
As for me, I am going to try the regular tires for this winter, with one of the originals as spare, and see the difference myself so that I can make the right decision for the replacement for the originals. Also I will wait for the 16" x 7.0", just to make sure the dimensions are close to the #156's.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
K
Keep in mind you will be carrying a heavy, dirty wheel in your trunk for several months, plus a full size jack and lug wrench. Blizzak runflats in the 16" size are $146 each, meaning that for the $200 or so difference every couple years, you are spared this inconvenience.
My service advisor ( I trust them ) told me that these tires are specificaly for BMW dealers and not same as you would buy from other tire places.
So far that has been true...no problems with tires from the dealer, but had many from other sources.
I am not telling you either way but just some info from my experience.
Good Luck
Regards,
Webby
I guess you have a point. I will look into the Blizzak RFT.
Someone showed me there is a Pirelli RFT too in Tirerack. Anyone have thoughts on a good (including value) winter RFT. At the least a compo between Blizzak & Pirelli ?
Anyone on 16 x 7.5 vs 16 x 7.0 ?
40 mm offset ?
Thanks !
K
My dealer gave me the following residual on 325i is 61 for 15/k, money factor is .00250.
Residual on the '06 3301 is 60 for 15/k and the money factor is .00250.
He alson said he will ONLY charge me $45.00 for Doc fees, and 120.00 for NY license plates, registration, $10.00 for inspection , and $12.50 for tire tax. I am sure he will have the MACO when I go sign.
What would be the capitalized cost?
Pls. let me know asap.
Thanks.
Some tires from Tire Rack are designated "BMW" or other makes of car... I wonder if that's what the difference is?
The capitalized cost is the negotiated selling price of the car plus the acquisition fee ($625).
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3yr/45K lease. (you'll have to check to see how much more 54K miles will be).
About $500/mo. + tax
Due at signing around $1300-$1400...
Just rough figures.. assuming $2000 discount from MSRP...
The new 3-series is not a great lease deal...
regards,
kyfdx
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Thanks again for the info.
I think I will also wait for the new 16" x 7.0" Mille Miglia. Do I have it right, they will only be $75/ea.?
As to the snow tires, I have to agree with Corvette.
I don't want to put one of my dirty standard tires in the truck as a spare and then have to add a jack, lug wrench, etc. I would just stick with the 16" RFT @ $148/ea.
Safe driving,
Joe
Just curious, why?
2) Strong selling prices (not much of a discount).
They lease prices aren't bad... just not great... strong residuals are what keep them reasonable..
regards,
kyfdx
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Good point...perhaps someone from Tire Rack can answer.
When you read the many reports ( Tire Rack ) on the same tire and car and how these opinions vary all over the place.....seems that the manufacturer has different grades of same tire.
Regards,
Webby
Just don’t go bragging to the service tech that you’ve been dipping into the red all weekend.
If "Yes" then you will not be able to rotate the tires.
If "No" then I would recommend rotating front to back, keeping the tires on the same side of the car. Personally I'm thinking that 7,500 miles is probably a good place to do the rotation.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I thought it had items “recorded” for a few seconds for the various safety systems, abs, ebd etc.
Does this mean your wife can access your driving patterns? :P
1. BMW 330i
2. Lexus IS350
3. Infiniti G35
4. Acura TL
5. Audi A4
6. Cadillac CTS
7. Volvo S60R
8. Saab 9-3 Aero
I haven't read the article yet, but I look forward to doing so soon. Enjoy!
2006 325i
Standard transmission
Cold weather package
Premium package
Satellite radio
Metallic paint
MSRP including $695 destination charge: $36,565
I have been quoted $35,365 ($1200 off MSRP) and the following lease deal:
36 months
18,000 miles per year
1st, last and acquisition fee, registration: $2,200
MF: .275
Residual: 61%
Monthly payment w/tax: $582
I have also been given a second option of adding the following:
Sports package
Xeon headlights
with an MSRP of $38,965
and a purchase price of $37,295
lease terms are the same with a monthly payment of $612 with tax
Any comments and suggestions will be most appreciated.
Normally I keep my trap shut on this issue, because there is this "thing" out there in BMW land that the sports package is somehow "necessary" to enjoy this car. I say to anyone who wants to buck this trend - "good for you" - save your money up front, and more money every time you have to deal with those expensive tires. I don't pretend this is anything but a minority view, though in my frequent travels to Europe, I note that my informal "street polling" reveals that most BMW drivers there don't think the sports package is nearly as important as Americans seem to believe.
At this point I've priced a 330i stick, Jet Black, Black leatherette (w/ aluminum), and floor mats at MSRP $37,420 (which is pushing the upper end of my budget, but is doable). By comparison, a similarly equipped 325i, Jet Black, Black leatherette, w/ Power front seats ($995), Xenons ($800) and premium sound ($1200), plus say $1000 for 17" wheels (the ones that come standard on 330 don't seem to be offered as an option on the 325, so this is a guess, for direct comparison's sake), floormats, comes in around $35,515.
215 HP is certainly enough for my purposes, but I guess I wouldn't turn down 255. I've not done a driving comparison of both at the same time, but I assume I would feel the difference on the highway, etc. I'm interested in comments on the "intangibles" that distinguish the 330i from the 325i, based on folks' driving or ownership experience. (For example, I think the 330i's chrome accents look really cool.)
Would appreciate any thoughts, comments, or suggestions, including regarding price negotiations. For instance, based on comments on this forum, I think I could try for $36,000 on the above 330i with a straight face (Chicagoland area), but if folks think I could be more aggressive, I'd be interested in that too. (Unfortunately it will be obvious to a dealer that I want and intend to buy a 3 series, so I give up any real or imagined leverage that might bring.) Either way it's a very nice car.
mattg
Like the sports package, I regard all factory sound system upgrades as pretty much a freebie boost to the manufacturer's bottom line, and just a complete waste of your dollars. At resale time, such upgrades are virtually worthless to a dealer and most private buyers. As in my comments above on the sports package, I expect to be shouted off the stage - as usual, it all depends on what you want and are willing to pay for.
It's a personal thing. I find even a sport packaged equipped e46 (especially the 325i with the smaller 17s) to be a soft-buicky ride that wallows and floats too much. It all hinges on the driver. i'd rather not own a bmw if faced with only the option of owning a non-sport equipped car.
though in my frequent travels to Europe, I note that my informal "street polling" reveals that most BMW drivers there don't think the sports package is nearly as important as Americans seem to believe.
I can contact my friends in germany and france with bmws and I know they'd say otherwise for themselves...because they push their cars hard daily.
Again, personal preference.
You indicated that you've taken test drives (although not at the same time)..... What did you think about the drives? I would definitely recommend driving both back-to-back. The drive isn't going to feel much different, except for the added power of the 330i.
As others have mentioned, if you add the xenons, premium sound, power seats, and 17" wheels to the 325i, you've got many of the options that the 330i has standard. At that point, it's almost worth it to consider a "base model" 330i..... My two cents.