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Comments
I get a consistent 24-25mpg on my 100 mi round trip commute which is about 90% hiway at 70-75mph. My mileage has gone up from 23-24 over the past few months. I strongly suspect that at just under 25000 miles the engine/tranny is finally broken in. The mechanic at the dealership said it would take 20-30k miles to really break in the engine based on his experience with the dodge diesels. I have not had the latest flashes done, but have an appointment next week for the 25k service and will have them done then. Hopefully my mpg will jump up after, but that remains to be seen.
Personally, I have never gotten below 20.5 mpg (in the deead of winter) and one time got just under 27 during a long drive on a 2 lane hiway doing 55-60.
Clearly if MPG is the most important reason to own a diesel, then a Jetta would be the better choice. However, my mpg with the CRD is 40% better than with my XTERRA which never got better than 17.5 and often was below 15. So, I am happy with the CRD and would do it again.
I have found location to purchase CCV in Canada. The Racor CCV-3500 model will fit it seems. It is very similar to the ProVent by the looks of things. Pricing appears to be comparable, and for me there are plenty of distributers available. Mine is on order at present. I don't like the idea of the oil mist contaminating the CAC, either.
Regards
Dzlmyster
thx again!
Twocycle2
Or you can Drive Like a Chauffeur.
Steve, Host
Is this residue on the frontside of the filter-which is road pickup or on the backside of the filter? Greasy dirty air filters can be avoided by intake mods here at at lost.
Are you saying you have oil in your intake tube from the airbox to the turbo? or is this a humorous remark about how fast the air filter can get dirty.
I'm sure you have been keeping up with the dipstick issue. These don't use oil and there doesn't appear to be a break in like a cummins for 20k miles on dino oil.
Ordered and returned the provent. Built my version of a catch can. Some 5w40 was still getting through and with 18k miles of 0w40 everywhere, took it off and let the ccv flow. Waiting for old navy's, dcx/motori new design, 7yr 100k warranty, or if can get up from upside down maybe a new something from
I'm afraid that haven't been keeping up with the dipstick issue. Could you fill me in? :confuse:
Based on what I've read in this forum and elsewhere, it seems that TSB 18-008-16 might help. So, back to my question:
Do dealers consider this situation covered by warranty or are they going to stick me with a service charge to apply the TSB? How have you all handled this kind of thing?
Thanks!
Any 5-star Chrysler dealership who wants your normal (maintenance, parts, new vehic) business will apply any TSB earmarked for your vehicle. They'll pull up your VIN on their Technet and apply any/all of the TSB listed there that you request. Just remember that the Technical Service Bulletin "service" is an improvement program with the end-user's (vehicle customer) product performance in mind, but it is a guaranteed financial IOU between Chrysler Financial and the dealership. There is no monetary transaction between you and the dealership for TSB work for vehicles with troubles covered by a Chrysler warranty, period. The free-of-charge application of a Chrysler TSB or campaign on a vehicle that is out of warranty is at the discretion of the dealership. Sufficient ardency will sometimes work when told "no" at first if the vehicle's warranty recently lapsed. All Recalls on a vehicle in/out of warranty may be applied in accordance with the conditions of the recall. The Edmunds group explains it well here.
The TSB tells each dealership what Chrysler Financial will pay the dealership (in a standard hourly rate) for the work ordained by each TSB. The required parts are shipped from MOPAR to the dealership in a pre-sorted TSB package, and the allowed labor hours are scoped for a technician who can pull apart and put back together your vehicle blind-folded (aka extremely quickly and correctly the first time). Most technicians cannot complete the TSB labor within the time allotted by Chrysler financial, but they are paid at an hourly rate by the dealership in accordance with state labor laws. The end result is that the dealership absorbs the additional hours/cost required by the technician to complete the TSB work, which is why some lower-rate dealerships will not tackle certain TSB they know (usually by experience) take much more time than Chrysler will reimburse. They operate like a Casino in a way: they tackle tasks where the odds are stacked in their favor ensuring a positive cash flow.
Hope this helps.
Jones
This reply is meant to be helpful, not critical. The fact that you are getting acceleration lag (turbo lag) indicates that you are probably over throttling your CRD and this could be some of the source of your poor mileage. The CRD has a relatively large turbo that makes 23 lbs of boost and takes time to spool up. The lag “problem” is made worse by a fuel pedal that in my opinion is too short in travel. It seems to me to have only about 60 to 70% of other vehicles I have owned.
The less you use the turbo the more your engine will act like a 2.8 liter engine. The more you use the turbo the more it will act like a 6 liter engine and dump fuel into the engine accordingly. The turbo helps the engine make huge torque when you need it, but if you over throttle the engine, it will act like a 6 liter engine when you don’t need it. With this in mind, try using more finesse on the pedal by depressing it lightly and deliberately, pushing it down more slowly if you need more while recognizing the short travel on the pedal – the pedal goes to wide open pretty quickly.
I had a couple of episodes early on where I was pulling out into traffic and I gave it full throttle. It seemed that nothing happened at first and as I was turning into the lane the power came on so quickly I had a little difficulty straightening the wheel in time. This is a fact of life with turbos. Some vehicles are better than others on this issue due to the relative size of the turbo.
Thanks! LK :confuse:
It is the same with the VW TDI. Comes on scary fast if you are not careful. Real dramatic torque steer with a FWD car. Light foot is the key. Good advice.
I have been one of the lucky ones ,when it comes to "30 mpg".In a none hilly terrain.
I have 25,000 miles on my 05 Libby.
I have been averaging 400-500 miles on a 19 gallon fill up.
A couple of suggestions that may help...
1/Fill up to a "full" tank at a truck stop .
And compare results to ..
To a fill up of The use of additives will help
B.P Supreme diesel, greatly,well they can't hurt.
Shell Ultra, Lucas -
Citgo #1 upper cylinder lubricity
or Sunoco Gold formula,and injector cleaner
I feel it helps to max out
fuel quality makes efficiency.
a difference .
2/higher tire pressure helps lower rolling resistance.
I notice a big difference in mileage,when I pumped them up at 35-36 psi.
Wider tires do have higher rolling resistance but are stickier on the road.It is a trade off.
your mileage will suffer on these types of mudders.
I have 235 70R 16 's on mine.
One set of 4 is a none aggressive tread for summer use,the other set is an ATS that I use for off roading and winter traveling.
3/Driving habits and terrain travelled will affect mileage the most.
DCX specifically suggests,like most car companies do,
"no jack rabbit hole shots"
"lower speed 55-65 mph,and use cruise when possible"
to get better fuel economy.
Hilly terrain will affect mileage big time in any vehicle.
When you can leave for work 10 minutes earlier
and drive in the slower trucking lane to work ,
instead of the Ferrari lane.
If economy is your goal ,speeding isn't part of the formula.
4/Before a long trip change the oil and filter .
It always helps to make the engine run more efficiently.
Farout,
glad to here you are getting some results on the "mpg" issue.
I am figuring that the term "TSB" means the regular servicing done by the dealership?
Like you I can't wait for ULSD to hit the market.
Good luck ..
Lightnin...
Edmunds had a tsb service list - just did a quick find and got
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/MaintenanceServlet
didn't go any further than that
Did you ever take you kj and get lost
The tsb's are fully discussed-saw some of us there and finally got lost myself after mentioning it.
I got (not with Tx crap diesel) as much 27-28 running with the autobahn and I don't mean cruise control at 1800rpms-like vtdog I believe-I would get shot or run over-besides we didn't buy the crd to drive like a yugo on half its' cylinders. Before tsb's and opened exhaust we got 22+ with an autobahn trip from dallas to houston last year as well as a cruise trip to okc at 65. Retmil46 gets 30 in NC with good fuel and while in Tx to visit Austin barely got 22 with Tx crap diesel (mexican crude with high asphaltines?)
Open up the exhaust, I opened my air box and always have a clean air filter, tighten everything, use a synthetic fuel treatment, redline or amsoil? (and some Power Service now and then)
You are on drugs if you think I keep my cruise control to hold at 1800 rpm. My mpg is just under 25 driving 70-75. My biggest problem with the CRD is keeping the speed down below 80.
Offer $1836.00 for extension to 7yr / 70,000 miles.
I indicated I might have a problem with that as I bought a Buick Lesabre two years back and paid $1635.00 for extended 5 yr /100,000 mile warranty.
Their selling point was the diesel extended warranties are higher and that this was a 4 wd vehicle.
I tend to keep a car for a while but I sure don't want to be sucker punched for paying too much for the extended comprehensive warranty.
Any body had an experiece getting prices on the Libert CRD extended warranty packages ?
Thanks
I took my CRD in to the dealer today and they said that this TSB doesn't apply to my CRD. (Go figure??) Anyway, the transmission tech said that the torque converter needed to be replaced, so they ordered the part. I guess after that is done, we'll see if it makes any difference.
If it's not a mechanical problem, I'm still trying to figure out the low mileage. I actually do take it very easy on the accelerator 90%+ of the time, trying to get shifts to occur at as low RPM as possible. I do find that the grade of the road (i.e., decline vs. level vs. incline) makes a huge difference here.
The accelerator lag is only a problem in some cases when trying to pull into traffic, etc. I'll try to be more careful in those situations.
But with a lot of highway miles, I still think I should be doing better than average MPG in the 19's. Maybe the "bad Texas diesel" I'm using is part of the problem. Each of my fillups have been at different stations around here, but I haven't tried a true truck stop yet. I'll keep looking around.
Bad news: my shudder has returned, one time at 56-57mph at a steady speed, and a few times when I backed off the throttle around 70mph after accelerating uphill. The latter events were pretty harsh. I really wish the shudder problem could be resolved. I have had the latest TSB and, for a time, thought that had fixed it. I am paying attention to fuel quality and trying to buy only premium diesel from good stations. I suspect the shudder is a combination of computer programming and EGR issues, but I'm not an engineer.
With the new EGR and the TSB, maybe
i'll get better MPG...
I'm in the Burton area, where in Michigan are you? I've been using either the BP (fleet fueler) or the Speedways right off the expressway so get fresh fuel.
Hi Farout,
I had the same issue at the first air filter change (12K miles) - black and soot covered on the engine side. It was not as bad as you describe but it was black and soot covered on one edge and less black toward the other edge. The fresh air side was pretty clean, just some huge genetic mutant Missouri bugs.
After reading your post, I pulled my filter out to take a look and it is now clean and pure white on the engine side (20K miles). The only place it could have been coming from is the CCV hose that feeds in between the air filter and the turbo. I has to be prebreak-in blow by that shoots into the intake hose and hits the back of the air cleaner just prior to turbo boost when the throttle is first stepped on.
Apparently the engine side contamination of the air filter eventually goes away. With the engine side of the air cleaner prefectly clean and oil consumption stopped, I have to assume that there is no need for a ProVent type device. I expect to see the intercooler hoses cleaner at the next inspection.
Although I wish someone could come up with some subjective fuel quality stats on these different suppliers,so we can compare mileage,and price,for best results.
Although... I would have to say that I found on average that The Shell fuel,and B.P. supreme have produced the best results for mileage so far,for me .
How about you guys?
I am also going shopping today in Michigan.Any ideas on location of suppliers on diesel additives in the Detroit area..
I am looking for Stanadyne diesel performance formula,and Lucas upper cylinder injector cleaner lubricity formula.
All help is appreciated.
Lightnin..
18k miles of 0w40, intercooler hoses, intake - "VM Motori's Intake Throttle Valve" and obviously the cac/intercooler coated in oil and sticky film. Made a catch can from a washing machine braided hose. Took it off to see how 5w40 would do. New DCX hose from the turbo to the intercooler (now entirely coated-obviously 5w40 did help much). Hose from the intercooler to the intake that I had scrubbed clean now also full with some liquid oil dripping off the stub tube of the intake. Got tired of dirty air cleaners - took off the inlet tube and replaced with plumbing parts - a 3" to 4" rubber coupling and a 3" male adapter. Prefer a $8 + purolator air filter from o'reillys made in the USA for better breathing. Better half has just updated my pictures.
Links to see the original aero shots and now the new hose covered inside with 5w40, the homemade catch I was using and the intake mod. Recently bought and returned the provent-should've provented back in 02/2005-better yet DCX should've never let this happen. Add me to the litigant list if we all don't get a ccv fix, new hoses and intercooler.
Found an August 2005 printout that somebody linked from South Africa entitled "Pop goes the turbo" from www.cartoday.com - found it very interesting.
">Aero
">ccv
I get 19 mpg in town and 29 mph on the highway. My wife and a couple of her friends went for a little 150 mile jaunt, mostly highway. I had just filled the CRD prior to her leaving and I filled it up right after she got back just to see how she did. She got 19.4 mpg!
Have you heard of the "what she hears and what he hears game". I said, "You only got 19 mpg, how did you drive?" What she heard, "You must drive like and idiot." She answered, "Why am I getting the 3rd degree?" What I heard was, "You better shut up or you will sleep alone tonight!" Sooo, I got no idea how she drove.
This is a little sideways from your post and probably not relevant.
You make a good argument for a boost gauge, Nescosmo. It would be nice to know what your maximum boost was before and after the work. I sounds like the EGR/tsb got rid of some of your boost. I kind of scares me away from having any TSBs done. Thanks for your post.
i am experiencing the same numbers as you. i have 12000miles
on my crd. i have found that the computer is very close to my own manual figures, generally the computer being about 1 mpg better. with mostly highway driving and maybe 20% city my mpg is running 22.5 mpg tank after tank.
I assure you this is no joke. I have a feeling I am going to wish it were.......oh ug.
Farout
I paid $3.92 for a single quart of Shell Rotella 5-40W. That's over $22. just there, so $10. is never going to get it done. So in my book Edmunds blew it big time with their labor costs.
Farout
farout
The inlet tube to the airbox is just pushed in the airbox and slips over the 4 sided plastic piece at the grill. If you take that off and start it up, the airbox will draw hot air forward from the rear of radiator and pull it into the airbox. That is why I did my $8-9 fix. My filter stays clean and the turbo loves the flow. I never went more than 6k miles on the air cleaner before my intake fix. Some will say the turbo will pull from where ever to get air. I think it is just a dirty filter.
farout
Didn't go any further than that page. Where to get tsb's I thought was the question. TSB's can be found all over the place. Have the tires road force balanced and if no problems rotate my own tires with my own torque wrench. Like my rotors too much. I guess you went to that edmunds site and found that information-sorry.
Farout