Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    I'm in East Lansing, and I visit Detroit and AA areas a fair bit. Locally I use Meijer stations which have Meijer Premium diesel, and the CRD seems happy on it. I also get B20 in Dansville (Swan Fuel) when convenient. My favorite station is Wacker Oil in Manchester, which has both Amoco premium 50-cetane petrodiesel, and a B20 mix with that. Lately B20 has been 5 cents cheaper than petrodiesel. I sometimes use Speedway and haven't had a problem but don't feel it's the best fuel; just basic No. 2 with a cetane in the low 40's. None of the name-brand stations around here have "premium diesel" other than Meijer and Mobil, and my CRD didn't perform any better on Mobil than it does on brand X from Speedway or Sunoco; the Mobil "premium diesel" also tends to be among the priciest.
  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    Regarding the litigant list, DCX needs to fix the shudder once and for all. I have had the latest TSB and so far only dealer service, but the shudder remains. It seems more likely to occur when there is straight petro in the tank than with some percent of biodiesel.
  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    I suspect your wife is varying her speed by a few mph, perhaps without even noticing it. Typical for less than great drivers. (A few people can maintain a steady speed without cruise, but not many.) Using cruise control for the entire time on the freeway is likely to make a big difference.

    Good look with the spousal relations, I have no advice there. I finally have my fiance understanding that she needs to idle her truck (Cummins) a bit before shutdown. She didn't believe me until she finally read the manual and saw that it stated exactly what I had been telling her.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Farout,

    I can't get 30+ mpg in them hills. I consider most of the driving around Lake OZ to be town.
  • crdblazrcrdblazr Member Posts: 12
    Today I tested my CRD offroad on some rock trails and was very pleased with the performance. The only driving comparison I have is my old Nissan SE-V6 4x4 pickup that I drove in the early 90's. The clearance was better on the Nissan (oversize tires), but the CRD is far more maneuverable and its high low-end torque makes climbing very easy! I was going up steep hills while barely exceeding 1,000 RPM. On steep declines I found I could drop it into 4LO/D1 and the CRD engine braking took care of the rest. Looking forward to my next jaunt.
  • twocycle2twocycle2 Member Posts: 55
    "If you wrench, use Grubbs. Sorry, but you got me to remember the difference between dealerships."

    Thx for the clarification....that's good to know....it's hard enough to find a good service dept for "common" gas vehicles, even harder for common diesel vehicles, but it's next to impossible to find somebody who is knowledgable about something as rare and unique as our CRD's.....thx again for the info....I'll keep Grubbs in mind....

    Twocycle2
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Sorry, for the "mis-direction". I guess that's the problem with the reply to a reply to a reply. I never had the shudder. 01/2005 build date with a 12/2004 tranny build. Our CRD built with missing/broken/rejected parts-yes.

    I guess any first time diesel owners who were not early buyers must have installed a provent at time of delivery or don't expect to own it long. We were not that lucky.

    Over 20k miles, no "broken in" benefit. Best mileage when not using local crap diesel. Would love some 50 cetane.
  • twocycle2twocycle2 Member Posts: 55
    Tired Old Dave,

    What was your $8-9 intake fix you referred to in an earlier post? Where did you re-route to intake to? I remember Mercedes diesels in the 90's that actually had an air intake grill in the passenger side front fender, I guess to pull in the coolest air possible....I haven't checked my air filter yet, as I've only got about 3K miles....I will check it this next weekend, and may try to re-route the intake then.

    Twocycle2
  • twocycle2twocycle2 Member Posts: 55
    Just finished a trip from Dallas to Corpus Christi and back last week....drove at a min of 65 and as much as 85 for a total of 1061 miles, and it was windy the entire time....avg 23.2 for the entire trip....this engine runs better and better the more miles I put on it....crusing at 85-90mph is easy (almost too easy) as it takes only a light throttle to maintain speed....speed can build without you even noticing it.

    I had a Silverado with the Duramax a few yrs ago....changed the fuel filter the first time at 15K, and immediately saw my mileage go up 1-2mpg.....has anybody had their CRD long enough to replace the fuel filter, and if so, any noticable change in power/mileage?
    Twocycle2
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Did you click on the links to the pictures in post 5716?
    3"-4" plumbing rubber coupling and 3" male pvc adapter. This replaces the airbox inlet tube and surrounds the piece attached to the radiator brace diffusing the draw of the turbo and keeps road grime off the filter.

    That is not an issue for most people but if you look at your filter and debris clogging your drain holes in the airbox you'll get the picture. My airbox stays clean and no water on the filter.
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Member Posts: 253
    I filled my CRD with a tank of ULSD today. I drove it like a red headed stepchild and couldn't get the crd to produce any smoke. It ran well. I am interested in seeing what happens to my MPGs. Has anyone else been able to use the fuel? Share how you crd runs on it.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Siberia.... Maybe we all are crying baby all we talk about is how bad my mileage is or how good mine is my tranny here and there. Why don't we all wait for the new diesel and the new oil to come in to effect perhaps all of our problem will be solve. Well maybe none of the above we wish to come to be true; what else we are going to do if we don't have this place. We sure enjoy talking to each other, if not we probably will be nagging at our wives.
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    I keep trying to tell them, but nooooooooooobody beleives me.
  • whitgallmanwhitgallman Member Posts: 121
    I got a copy. It's a sho-nuf DC Jeep manual someone Adobe'd.
  • whitgallmanwhitgallman Member Posts: 121
    That ULSD. Was it listed as #2 or #1? What brand was it? Where did you buy it? THANKS!!!
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Hey TOD, nobody got the obvious. Why bother ever changing your air filter-with the fabulous ccv sending that good sooty oil into the intake. Lost.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Whitgallman....sorry for my stupidity but what is sho-nuf.
  • anomiousanomious Member Posts: 170
    Honey chile!! Yo sho nuff ain't from the south!
    I bought the CD also. It is sure
    enough a good copy of the shop
    Manual. I also bought a parts list
    CD.
    Good luck! LK :shades:
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    The crd breathes thru small openings with the pickup at the passenger bottom of the radiator grill-hence you are vacuuming your roads.

    Dave, are we talking about the same vehicle? The fresh air intake on my CRD is just left of the right headlight behind the grill. The bottom of the opening is 31 inches off the ground. I haven't driven through 2 feet of water yet but I have driven in heavy rain. I see no evidence of water getting in my intake or on my filter.
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    What do you mean by open up the exhaust? Am I missing something that will lead to better MPG?
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Need some input, please. If you are standing facing the engine, there is a big hose (2 1/2" maybe) that goes from the top of the radiator Left side, to about half way down the top of the engine and down into something. I think it is an inner cooling hose? There is a plastic netting that goes around the hose.
    My problem is this, there is oil all over the hose. I am pretty sure this is not as it should be. The dealer ordered a new hose, but what causes the hose to be so oil soaked on the outside? Any ideas or suggestions are sure welcome.
    One dealer I called told me it was the transmission cooler line, and of course one tec said it was a water hose! And DCX has trained these CRD dealer tec's?
    I did change my air filter as it was really, really bad. Put a fram in, cost $11.30. but at least its a big one.

    Farout
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    Yea, that's your intercooler hose. Oil on the outside??? Maybe a loose clamp that is allowing inside oil to get out. Maybe loose CCV hose letting exhaust fumes circulate under the hood.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    It is not as it should be Farout. Guessing that it is a transmission line that far forward is not so bad absent knowledge about oil in the intercooler hoses on CRDs. And, the intercooler hoses are the same size as the radiator hoses and are located where radiator hoses are sometimes. The intercooler hoses are the top 2 hoses.

    I agree with Bvcrd that it is a loose hose clamp or a loose CCV hose. Could also be a split intercooler hose but that should result is a loss of power and maybe make a rushing sound as air escapes. Eventually the hose could pop off completely.

    If the hose is okay it needs to be removed and the mating surfaces of the hose and the pipes made very clean on each end so it won't slip off under pressure due to slick oil.

    Anyway, you now know first hand what we have been talking about concerning oil in the intercooler hoses.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    siberia?: Well The dealer ordered me a new hose, and they can clean up any mess. I do not see any oil any where else. As soon as the hose gets here then they will change it. I should be so luck to belong to the "inter cooler hose group". What does the hose connect to, the end near the engine? Is that where the turbo is ?

    Farout
  • twocycle2twocycle2 Member Posts: 55
    "We sure enjoy talking to each other, if not we probably will be nagging at our wives."

    I have tried that, but my wife has no interest in my CRD what-so-ever :-) To her, it's "just like her Trailblazer, but noisier"....which is why she doesn't get to drive it!

    That's why I enjoy this forum....get to talk to others who get excited about their vehicles and enjoy sharing experiences and advice. Thank you to all who have posted over the months....I've gotten a ton of great info from this sight!
    Twocycle2
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Siberia.... Here in central florida rain is nasty street get flooded and Orlando is a BIG CIRCLE no matter were you go it end in a lake, so that means that we have to drive on water maybe half of the ingene submerge on water so my question to you is: Were can we direct the air intake so we don't have the WATER PROBLEM. It is very important to know.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    farout, the oil accumulating on the intercooler hose is common to this type of engine. When the intake air goes into the turbo it gets mixed with hot oil fumes from the turbo bearing and the overpressure helps diffusion of the oil through the hose. You will notice that the cold side of the intercooler stays cleaner.
    There is nothing to worry about except getting you dirty when you reach into the engine compartment. These oil fumes diffuse everywhere and this is why we have hoses made of a special material that resists to cracking.
    One of my headlamp connectors was destroyed because of the oil fumes. The plastic moulding around the contacts of the bulb just came into tiny bits like if it had burnt. Wires are usually not affected but tape doesn't resist more than 5 years. Tape just peels off because it doesn't stick anymore.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Time out! Nescosmo.

    I watch the weather channel. Talking about an air intake that is vacuuming the asphalt implies an air intake that is 10 inches off the pavement - like little cars. The air-box and intake is nicely integrated in the CRD. The intake is open around the headlight and should not suck water, it can only be pushed in or just be that high. You are not going to get any higher under the hood, realistically.

    What you need is a fording kit or a bigger vehicle. I had the impression the intake was poorly designed until I looked at it.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Caribou1 do you mean that oil on the inside of the hose is common, hence normal. It may be common (I don't know since my hoses are dry), but I don't think it is normal or okay to have oil on the outside of the hoses. Oil on the outside of the hoses is due to leaks and there should not be any leaks. Keeping this in proportion it is a non serious problem unless the source of the oil is excessive or the hose is split.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    siberia, the oil diffuses through the material of the hose. My engine performance is not affected by this. I wiped it dry several times and it comes back within a month. I thought that using Shell Rotella 5W-40 solved the problem, but it didn't.
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    Why is it then, that the outside of my hose is bone dry, and my engine compartment still very clean after 6000 miles?
  • trumpet_washertrumpet_washer Member Posts: 48
    I had this problem at 3k miles, and it was loose clamps. I now have almost 8k miles on the Jeep, and have not had any oil in the compartment at all. I can't believe the "porous hose" theory. The hose material has to be the same as VW uses, and this is one problem the VW diesel did not have.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    You can read about the "porous hose" theory here:
    http://www2.nynas.com/naph/start/article.cfm?Art_ID=1987&Sec_ID=55
    It's also due to the "migration of the plasticizer agent", in other words the substance that gives flexibility to the hose has a certain degree of freedom to move. The warmer the better.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Caribou1, my intercooler hoses are completely dry at 20k miles and show no signs of loss of integrity inside or out. Many of us have seen hydraulic hoses, power steering hoses and transmission hoses go for decades, if not may years, without leaking. Yes, I think the intercooler hoses could be better quality and have better clamps so they don’t split or pop off.

    And, something else, the intercooler hoses on my CRD are lined with what appears to be Teflon or urethane, not rubber, so the oil rubber migration effect may be irrelevant due to the material.
  • eebroeebro Member Posts: 80
    Caribou1's point is well made in my opinion. Static compression and temperature increase against a polymer wall conspire as a catalyst for solvency. Additionally, this is not purely refined oil in our crank-cases. Soot and combustion artifacts even wear down cork and RTV seals as well as eventually abrade any lubricated metal-to-metal surfaces--even attack the alloys causing pitting! So it's not fair to compare used, warm diesel engine oil with steering, transmission and hydraulic systems that are all but hermetically sealed from particulate matter, but are nonetheless prone to oil coking and crystallization from extreme temps. With the impurities infused into the oil from combustion, one would expect a more rapid disintegration of unstable elastic polymers with which the oil comes in contact, yes? Impurities in cyclically used engine oil will breakdown a "plastic" EGR return hose in a matter of 150k miles if the temp and pressure conditions were right.

    ah...but it's a good thing the hoses are cheap so that replacement is not so painful on the pocket book. I'm sure DCX kept all these issues and more in mind when putting this engine system together using "rubber" hoses for the CRD intercooler intake.

    And note that the report in the URL does not mention natural rubber (from a rubber tree). Nitrile and others(aka synthetic rubbers) were discussed. Urethane is a polyether and Dupont's teflon(r)is nothing more than a ubiquitous class of PolyTetraFluoroEthylene--both in the "synthetic rubber/plastics" class with drastically different properties and uses.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    You cannot change reality with extended debate. My intercooler hoses are dry and they are rubber, but lined. The issue is moot in my mind until I see a "weeping" hose. I don't care if the posts are 50 to 1, direct observation is what it is.

    I am not sure the intercooler hoses are not good enough. Mine are still okay.
  • vtdogvtdog Member Posts: 163
    Yes, it is possible to have a "porous" hose due to high temp, pressure, and solvent capabilities of the oil and its additives (which are probably proprietary and unknown). However, as they tell medical students: "when you hear hoof beats, think horses, not zebras". In other words, look for the most common/simple explanation possible (loose clamps).

    Sherlock Holmes also weighed in on this issues as follows:
    "After eliminating the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, is the truth"
  • manleymanley Member Posts: 72
    In the morning I run out about 5 to 10 minutes before i leave for work and crank my libby to get her warmed up. I don't just jump in and go. Just like a beautiful woman, i don't like to rush things. I did the same thing with my other vehicles (gas). I was just wondering if this is common practice or even recommended for the CRD. I know the reasons for doing it in a gas engine and it makes since in my mind that it would apply to diesel too.

    Oh and I got pissed today i read a consumer report that said that the CRD should be avoided because it was noisy, slow, and got poor mileage. 18 mpg is the number they quoted. I am Averaging 25 mpg.
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    Anything longer than 15-20 seconds and you are pissing in the wind.
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    I agree. Once the oil pressure comes up, I'm in reverse and out of the garage. Then again, when I start it up, the inside of my garage is usually in the mid to high 60's so it's always warmer then outside.
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    Basically, you want to like you said, get the oil pressure up,the torque converter has a anti drain back valve so no need to idle for that unless it has been parked for over 2 weeks. Then, only 30 seconds will fill it.
  • steve05steve05 Member Posts: 52
    hmmmm - well 30 seconds eh? I'm getting a delay for the tranny to grab a gear after only 2 or 3 days. I commute to work on my bicycle several days a week and inevitably after 2 days of not being started, there is a pause from gear select to gear engage. I had decided immediately that this isn't right - my 25 yeay old motor home does it and that doesn't bother me. My 1300 mile Jeep should absolutely not have a delay like this.
  • eebroeebro Member Posts: 80
    Jesus walked on water. I didn't see that nor can I replicate it, nor has anyone in recent days. But, I still believe it happened because 4 separate authors said it did. :)

    Caribou1 says his intercooler hose weeps. His noted observations deserve unguarded recognition considering the calibre of his input on a weekly basis and the fact that he's willing to admit when he's wrong.

    Your intercooler hose doesn't weep. Good. His weeps. Good. Therefore, the intercooler hose on the CRD has the propensity to weep in response to some sort of stimuli according to Caribou1. If he sends an update saying he spotted a different issue as the cause, then I'm sure he'll note the source of his discrepancy as he has done admirably in the past.

    Jones
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    Is yours a 2005? I believe the anti drain back converter is a new item for 2006. I think there is a tsb for it.
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    Do you know that the authors of which you speak were long dead when some of their passages were written? There were many, many more than 4 pairs of hands involved in the writting of the new good book.
  • eebroeebro Member Posts: 80
    To wit:

    I discovered the strangest thing in relation to the shudder I've experienced in the transmission. You won't believe it, but I decided to pull the pan off the 545RFE transmission just for kicks. Lo and behold, I found a copy of the book, "The Divinci Code" lodged firmly up against the south end of the front pump! I swear it happened...really. When I removed it, and replaced the pan, I started up the CRD and it literally began flying! My gas mileage is north of 100 mpg, now, and the laws of physics and reason are all but unnecessary! And since I write it, unfortunately, without any evidence--camera footage, witnesses, documents, pictures--it really must be true!

    So, for all of you folks out there who have been speaking about, teaching on, and designing the ever-improving mechanisms within transmissions, engines, and automobiles using historically empirical evidence who say this is impossible: this problem really was easily solved by my removing that ATF-soaked treasure trove of wisdom, insight, and verifiable fact. What's important to remember is that things that are "right" or "work" for me and my CRD, have zero bearing on anyone else's experience, perception of reality, or general common sense. Hail to the avarice-ravaged relativists, and go my flying CRD!

    Jones
    ...oh, and I've posted my email addy in the alotted Edmunds profile, so anyone: feel free to bird-walk with me via that outlet.
  • cubejockeycubejockey Member Posts: 8
    I'm in the club! I too have an EGR problem!

    My engine light popped with @10,000 miles on my CRD and I took it in along with an oil change. Interesting experience at the dealership.

    The service manager writing up my service paperwork did three circles around my car. Why? Never saw a diesel or something?

    He's a bit perturbed, I had the oil changed at a different dealership (it was closer to my home). Then says the oil change will cost more, synthetic oil.

    He does another loop around my libby, then walks over to the parts dept. He comes back to my libby with two other employees and open the hood (duh, yup...it's a diesel). The have a little huddle for a couple minutes and then separate (first diesel repair?).

    They get to work on it the next day. The service manager calls me to pick it up. He's happy to tell me the oil's changed and the tires rotated...then sneaks in that they have to order the EGR and "will call or mail me" to bring it back when the part arrives. :confuse:
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Actually, I have agreed with almost 100% of Caribou1's posts. If my hose(s) start to "weep" I will be the first one to admit that I am wrong (I have before). This is not personal, please don't make it personal. I look forward to Caribou1's posts. One thing you did not give Caribou1 credit for is his originality. As far as I can tell he posts only new and original topics and he is quit capable of defending himself.

    Recall, we were originally talking about Farout's hose on a low mileage CRD when we decided to take a ride on the space shuttle. It is quite possible that the intercooler hoses on US CRDs are different material(s) and quality than what is on Caribou1's CRD. US hoses are lined with a different material than the outside rubber that you acknowledge but do not attach much benefit to.

    You mentioned high temperature, pressure and solvents. We are talking about 23 lbs of pressure max, maybe 200F and boundary oil/fuel. Otherwise it's just hot air.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    To Wit: yada yada.....

    Now, I believe! :D
  • bhcs111bhcs111 Member Posts: 26
    I also joined the EGR club today. Mine lasted for 22,000 miles. My engine light came on about four days ago. They will have my EGR in on Wednesday afternoon.

    I think I would be looking for a different service center than the one you are with now. I had kind of the same thing when I took mine to the local dealership last August. I'm lucky because the town I work in also has a jeep dealer and they know how to work on them and treat the customer. The first dealer I went to and had problems with didn't like it when I knew more about the vehicle than they did. The service writer throw my keys at me. I told him a few fine words and out I went. Never to return to them again.
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