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Comments
There is a article on Mikes totally Free Jeep News that shows a company that puts the 2.7 or the 3. in the JK for a near $24,000. Now that's a bargain for sure. It's a toy for rich boys. And a divorce for a middle aged man.
Farout
I have not tried this but someone a good while ago talked about disconnecting the positive cable from the battery. Let is sit for ( I am not sure but I think it was) 2 hours. Hook the batter back up. The PCM will retrain itself and if you drive as you want it to shift it will relearn itself. I believe someone said every 50 restarts the PCM re-programs it's self. I wish I was more sure of what was said. Perhaps someone else can recall it complete directions.
Dod Overland Park Jeep get your fixed up? They sure have a bunch of Compass's listed in the Jeep list of vehicles. What I could not understand how we could get a 06 Liberty with a sticker of $25,000. and we got it for $18,650. and a Compass equipped kind of close was nearly $22,000. and NO DISCOUNT whatsoever! The Compass is better looking that the Caliber, but both are basically the same. The Compass will never make it as a Jeep with big number of sales. I do think the Patriot will be a better vehicle and sell more than the Compass. I expect that the Patriot will be more money than the Compass, who knows?
Farout
Farout
Farout
Farout
Nescosmo
SemperFi06
In 5th the TC should be locked which means that the engine speed versus road speed is a fixed ratio, about 26.5rpm/mph in this case. Sure you can change the shift points by reprogramming but you cannot change gear ratio which is a physical property of the transmission. If you are travelling at 48mph your engine speed should be about 1270rpm unless, of course, your TC is not locked?
i get no error codes with it. Works great and i have no complaints. I would rather have one from bully dog but they do not make one yet.
We both have an EGR valve:
-yours is hard to reach and down on the driver's side, cooled and moved electrically,
-mine is on the passenger's side, sits above the hot exhaust manifold and moves with vacuum (like the brake booster).
On your truck the vacuum solenoid that's behind the air filter box is used for moving the turbo vanes, on mine it's the same solenoid sitting at the same place used for the EGR valve.
You use the Flow Control Valve to mix the gasses, on mine the mixture is done by "an evaluated drag" of the exhaust gas along the tubing that runs around (behind) my engine.
This also partly explains why you can have more torque at low revs without having emissions problems. If I use a simple clip-on' kit to boost performance I will emit a lot of smoke below 2200 rpm and I could clog my catalyzer.
When you disconnect the EGR Flow Control Valve you cannot choke the engine anymore to stop it smoothly, and you can't accurately control the amount of exhaust gas being recycled. To avoid problems I think it's best to disconnect both the EGR valve solenoid and the Flow Control Valve. Whatever you disconnect will make the Lambda sensors scream for help and give you adrenaline.
To answer your question "does the engine still run good" the answer is yes compared to when the valve needs cleaning and no compared to a good valve. In my case the shifting pattern was not repeatable because my EGR valve was not closing fast enough and the PCM was delaying the shifting sequence because the engine could not accelerate according to mapped values. It was too slow because it needed more oxygen, just like cigarette smokers. By disconnecting the valve everything became perfect like when the truck was new and this condition remains unchanged after 3 years of ownership. The mileage is said to be 3% less when the EGR system is used. This is too little to make sense in this case.
I doubt you can survive by mixing and cooling gasses experimentally. I would rather investigate more towards the cause of the electrical failure of the EGR flow control sender. Someone could open his valve while it works and post a few pictures to have a lead.
I once had a head lamp connector destroyed by presence of oil fumes under the hood. It was probably not well inserted, heated and combined with oil fumes the plastic felt like a crushed soda biscuit.
I could well imagine the same applies to this valve if the connector over heats. :confuse:
The only thing that I have disconnected is the EGR valve plug, a pain to get to but not hard to reconnect should it be necessary.
The 27 MPG is up & down hills and some interstate and seems to depend on where I buy fuel. Safeway seems to have what it likes.
If another system failure causes the MIL, I will miss it. As long as it runs good I don't have a problem with that, but I am looking at getting a code reader to keep track.
Disconnecting the EGR is probably illegal, but I cause a lot more pollution with it on and the Flow Control Valve failed.
Any other mods done as well?
thanks!
Justin
Farout
It's a very safe unit. Made in Germany.
Cheers! LK
I've been using this make since 12,000 miles and I'm happy with it. I paid it less than 30USD and will use it for 25,000 miles.
Good Lock.
Nescosmo.
Farout
Farout
The other link is regarding ProVent. http://www.singhmotorwerks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=194- &osCsid=a12972490caf27ebe299123b6ccdd91c
Maybe so? Just curious, what was wrong with your EGR cooler? I seems highly improbable that the 4 parts you listed would all fail at once. :confuse:
Not questioning you - questioning your dealer. Maybe my dealer is not the only one blowing smoke.
http://www.parker.com/RACOR/PRODUCTTABLES/TABLE-MARINE-SPINON.JPG
Look at the outer dimensions of the spin_on elements. The fastest way to identify yours is by looking at it's height. It should be 9".
Mine corresponds to the 'model-230' of the 3rd column from the left; it has the fuel heater chamber built in.
The replacement filter should have "S" marked in the reference meaning 2 micron filtration.
No, we don't commemorate Thanksgiving Day here. We just try to overcome temptation and that's really hard. :sick:
sorry it took me so long to respond, I've been on vacation. Yes my sunroof leaks on my Feb. 2006 liberty CRD. It only leaks when I park pointing uphill. They put in new glass with the rubber gasket on and it helped alot but it still leaks a little. The water seeps in past the gasket and flows to the back edge of the sunroof where there is a collection gutter. Its supposed to drain out two drain tubes one in each corner but the flow must be heavy enough to overwealm the gutter and it spills over the edge, travels across the inside of my headliner and pours out the opening of the headliner at the top edge of the windows in the cargo area. I went back to the dealership and he said he doesn't no what else he can do, That it is designed to catch the leaks and drain it out, and that I need to park my car on level ground.
I filed a complaint two months ago with the customer service line and haven't heard back from them yet.
The e-mail was only to be opened with notice sent to V M Motori I did received their e-mail.
I think that I told DCX Customer Service that V M Motori did not agree with DCX's oil spec's and intervals, might of got some attention. But, then again DCX is not buying any more CRD engines for North America from V M Motori, so what would they gain by spending any more time with our e-mails.
How do you feel. This "test market" Jeep we bought had better stay together until my warranty is over, or the payments are done.........I hope!
Farout
Forums go beyond their structured potential of understanding and fixing problems due to bureaucracy and rules.
Forums bring a new approach to on-line diagnostic and can be used in a "crash program" to review and solve several issues rapidly. Never forget people read the web and think 24 hours per day around the world instead of 8-12 in a local area.
This is how the scientific world operates, but business related to mass production needs more time to introduce changes. Business groups call this 'brainstorming', scientists call this 'the learning phase'. In both domains those who propose ideas have to accomplish them.
The automobile industry is now saturating in the EU with the coming of new low cost asian giants. I guess more e-mail boxes will close like snails hide in their shells. :shades:
In the world that you describe (and I agree with you) customer relations are more important than ever before. Hiding one's head in the sand is no longer an option for a company that is in it for the long run and is not being run by lawyers.
VM Motori could very easily install FAQ sections on their web site and answer a vast majority of the questions they receive cutting down on emails and the need to answer them.
Ah, but can you get something like that past a legal department when you are having trouble with a particular vehicle or engine? If a company cannot answer questions directly and honestly, then they don't answer incriminating (perhaps too strong a word) questions at all.
VM Motori provides/machines the engine blocks and puts components together. This they do very well.
Parts that fail on the Liberty diesel are not made by VM. These parts are common to other common rail diesels and they also fail on the other vehicles. In NA KJ-owners are unfortunately discovering this last "variation" of the emissions control system applied to this Jeep.
A test market for diesel SUVs without the obligation to have the EGR Flow Control Valve would have eliminated the competitors right away. I'm referring to the truck I have. My only concern is when I will change my tires? Before or after the 4th winter season? To my opinion, this 2.8L engine is really great and the engineers who made the programming sequence of the tranny understood well what they were doing. Just wait until you try the manual shifter combined to the common rail: you may not like it at all :sick:
www.lostkjs.com/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=10096
There are 3 pages and examples read everything and tell me what you think of it.
Nescosmo.
What you say about who make the parts does not allay the proposition (not argument) that VM Motori (and DCX more so) should be engaging in good or better customer relations than some posters have indicated – perhaps through a FAQ site. I sense no serious disagreement on your part, but your discussion about who is making the faulty parts (Bosch is already known to many of us) seems to be supporting the proposition that VMM should continue to be forthcoming on information even to the extent of providing information like you provided in your post. As to the 2.8L VMM engine, I would stand in line to buy another one and I currently have no issue with the automatic transmission.
Your post seems to have established an new position that I did not take and proceed to argue against it as though that were my position. I did not mention the EGR valve or say that VMM makes it. I simply suggested how VMM might deal with a supposed avalanche of emails. Didn’t the original discussion spring from a question to VMM by Farout about oil?
In the last paragraph of my post I referred to a "vehicle or engine" and "a company" in general terms not meaning VMM specifically. I apologize for any confusion that may have created.
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Basically replace the torque converter, new ECM/TCM code and inspect repair as required the tranny.
Reduces Torque on the CRD slightly (so they claim..)
Go punch your VIN in at the Jeep.com recall website and you will see!
I have been able to cause the TC to slip going uphill @ 53 & pushing down on the throttle.
I have already had the transmission rebuilt once.
I will probably bite the bullet and have them replace the EGR flow control valve while they are at it. ouch
Farout
Farout
Farout