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Comments
1. If water gets into the high pressure pump, you can kiss it good bye.
2. If enough moisture is present, you can grow algae and bacteria. There are some bacteria that will eat diesel fuel and there are some algae that will thrive in diesel fuel as long as some water is present. If you get enough of these critters growing in the fuel, they will clog the fuel filter and damage the injection system.
To keep these bad guys at bay, use an additive that removes the water from the fuel and or drain the tank periodically to see if you have any moisture collecting in the tank. I am not sure if the CRD has a drain on the tank. Also, some of these additives will kill the bacteria and algae.
Use a good additive in the fuel. I like the ones from either Red Line Oil or from Amsoil. Most important though is where you get your fuel. Forget about the price. Look for the quality. Find a station where they turn over tons of fuel. Get a name brand like Shell, Texaco, or Chevron. Speak with owners of other diesels to find out where they get their fuel and how long they have been buying from them. If one or two stations get named consistently, go there. Avoid no-name brands. Busy truck stops are generally great places to get fuel. They need to do a good job of keeping their fuel clean or else it is the end of them.
If you buy crappy fuel and damage the injection system, there is a good chance that you will be paying for the repair. The warranty will not cover the use of crappy fuel.
After much searching I found some instructions online that said you can retrieve the diagnostic trouble code by turning the ignition key on/off three times quickly. Sure enough, about 5-10 seconds after I did that the odometer lit up with "P0700". I found that P0700 is a generic transmission trouble code. So my baby is at the dealership today being checked out.
Didn't I read somewhere that there was an updated firmware released for the transmission control computer? My CRD has an April 2005 build date so I had hoped it already had the latest firmware.
I think its noteworthy that you can indeed retrieve the diagnoistic trouble code via the odometer with little effort. Score one for the Jeep folks!
I questioned whether there was a TSB related to reprogramming the tranny. Was told no - that there was no such TSB that pertained to my VIN#. They told me that my Liberty was built on April 21, 2005. So young to be having troubles!
Will pick it up shortly. And I'll post how it goes after a few weeks, or sooner if the problem re-occurs.
hawk521, "Jeep Liberty diesel" #930, 23 Jun 2005 9:36 am
The Cruiser is quite a bit lighter, isn't it? I'll bet the vehicle gets some pretty good acceleration with that engine.
Anyway, they checked it out Friday, calling at 4pm to advise that they will have to wait for the part to arrive on Monday. So it looks like I'm getting a new selenoid for the ol tranny anyway. Was told there was a TSB about the selenoid replacement.
I inquired about any other TSBs for my CRD - especially any relating to the tranny and was told there were none! Contradicts what some have found - anyone have specifics I can share with the technician while my car is still in the shop?
Will mention the 18-018-05 TSB I was able to find and hope they'll get that done while its in the shop. I get the impression they don't normally pursue computer upgrade TSBs unless the owner complains about the specific symptom the TSB is designed to remedy.
Are there other TSBs that might also be worth bringing up? Somehow I'm not convinced the local shop is trying real hard to find these.
The fan clutch issue I've also had: my fan had too much play and it got so bad you could hear and feel the vibrations by touching the steering. Once my 2 year warranty is over (in 3 months) I will fix this in my garage. The only risk in removing the clutch is scratching the paint when removing the front grille.
It's a 1/2 hour job to change the clutch:
Torx screws for the grille (~6)
Plastic clips (~4) for the air deflector
M6 nuts to fix the fan on the clutch
Need 2 large spanners to unlock the clutch on it's threadded shaft.
At this point you have the clutch in hand
Transmission on my CRD is cranky until it warms up, even in 90+ degree heat. I have written down the TSB code and will call my dealer in the morning to ask them about it.
Took my CRD plus wife on a trip to West Virginia. About 170 mile round trip in 90+ degree heat and humidity. Ran the A/C continuously. Had to contend with a little stop and go traffic but generally moved along at 65 mph. Plenty of hills and long grades and no over heating. The temperature gauge did not even budge from its usual position, slightly below the half way mark.
Had good fuel economy, 27.9 mpg for the trip.
Go to the link at http://www.wjjeeps.com/faultcodes.htm
and click on the "Retrieving/Erasing Codes" link. I may have posted one less on/off cycle than is required. It did work on my 2005 Liberty CRD.
I realize this link is for a Grand Cherokee but the procedure is the same for the Liberty. Make sure your odometer is set to read odometer miles and not trip miles - that might make the difference. And tive it 5-10 seconds after you finish toggling the ignition switch.
On/Off/On/Off/On/Off/On (I think that's right) Perhaps a slight pause after each On is necessary?
The nice things about ULS-B5 are:
- that it doesn't irritate your lungs if you have to breathe near the exhaust. Morning joggers will appreciate.
- if you happen to spill some on your shoes while filling the truck, it doesn't stain.
- when offroading on mountain trails, hickers don't pinch their nose and wave their other hand any more.
Trans is still a bit cranky at times, especially when sitting overnight. Dealer advised me to idle the CRD for about 30 - 45 seconds before putting it in gear. Dealer stated that the torque converter drains out overnight and that this may be the reason the shifting is poor. Dealer stated that it takes about that long for the torque converter to refill after standing overnight.
I will try this and keep you appraised.
As to the overheating issue, the dealer states that there are no TSBs concerning this. Dealer did state that there are about 18 TSBs for the CRD, mostly related to electrical issues. Dealer did not go into detail about them.
I took my CRD into my dealer about 3 weeks ago because of the overheating problem. The dealer said everything checked out ok. I recontacted my dealer after reading Kappy44's account of the fan clutch replacement. I provided to my dealer his comments and a link to this forum.
Based on this new information, my dealer received confirmation from Chrysler to perform a check on the fan clutch. Chrysler did not authorize replacement initially, but limited authorization to the dealer to perform a check of the fan clutch.
I just received a call from my Dealer and they confirmed that the fan clutch is faulty and is not fully engaging. They have ordered a replacement fan clutch, but the part is backordered with no idea how long it may take to get a replacement. The fact that the part is backordered seems to indicate that a number of owners/dealers are facing replacements.
Hopefully, this will resolve the problem and for those owners experiencing overheating a resolution to the problem. I am otherwise happy with my CRD and am glad that there is not a fundamental design problem, but rather only a faulty part.
I think we should also expect a recall or TSB on this problem. Apparently, nothing has yet come out from Chrysler
I asked him about the cranky behavior that I experience in the morning, and he stated that this is part of the normal behavior of the transmission. I was told that the torque converter empties out after a few hours of sitting (did not say what a few hours was). He agreed with the idea of letting the engine idle for about thirty (30) seconds before putting it in gear so that the torque converter can refill with fluid.
Anyone know if there are any possibilities here with future models?
That is great news. I bought this Jeep for longevity. I figured a diesel engine would go a lot of miles, but this gives me hope that the tranny will go the distance too. I'll just have to keep the salt eating rustworms away from it and it may be a long long time before another car salesman smiles my way.
It is very vulnerable to rocks expecially in a 4wd
The factory units came with 5% biodiesel and have been tested with 20% mixtures. BioDiesel has a higher lubricity than regular diesel and is actually better for the injectors and wears them less compared with regular diesel. I burn B2 all the time (it is mandated in Minnesota at this point) and every once in awhile burn B5 and B20. The engine actually runs smoother on B20 and smells less. There is also less "brown fog" under heavy acceleration.
I will refer you to this link from an industry group which you can dismiss as business propaganda, but both DCX and Volkswagen Group have approved Biodiesel for use in their vehicles and full warranties:
http://www.biodiesel.org/resources/fuelfactsheets/default.shtm
When I pull up to a diesel pump I get out and swipe the card before shutting down. This can provide a little extra time.
When driving around town I drive easy when entering the neighborhood – about 6 blocks to the driveway at 15 MPH - and shutdown.
If it's 100 degrees out and you have been driving 80 MPH do the time!
Hopefully the solenoid is indeed the source of my problem. Odd that it worked fine for 6 weeks. It is troubling to have a car in the shop with tranny troubles at under 1800 miles. No loaner offered - not that I can't get along w/o one - its just the principle of having a virtually new car down for so long that bugs me. I wonder if they'd be interested in picking up the payments on it for the time its out of service? lol
Will post results when/if I ever get any. :confuse: )
My guess is that during R&D DC realized there was a shifting issue that could not be totally resolved. And, the weights are there to add inertia to the drive shaft and differential to absorb and subdue some of the impacts on the drive train from harsh shifts that might be felt in the vehicle. Therefore, it is very important for all solenoids, switches and programming to be functioning at optimum.
Another related issue might be the drive-by-wire pedal. This pedal has a shorter travel than the pedal of any vehicle I have ever driven requiring much more precise and smooth foot control on my part. If this is not a design flaw it is certainly not a drivability enhancement.
Smooth gear shifts in automatic transmissions generally require slower shifts while slipping the clutches perhaps with lower hydraulic pressure. All things being equal, firm shifts slip the clutches less resulting in longer transmission life. Go all the way to harsh shifts and its bad for everything connected inside and outside of the transmission.
During acceleration while holding the pedal constant or progressing slightly this engine / transmission combination produces some of the smoothest shifts of any vehicle I have ever driven. But, lift the pedal just before a shift, push the overdrive selector button while decelerating at 40 to 50 MPH or step on the pedal too quickly while making a right or left hand turn and the resulting shifts are –putting it mildly – unpleasant. I can’t believe this is the best DC could do.
I am overall happy with the drivability and economy of the CRD, however, I had to adapt my driving style to the vehicle.
I have also noticed on a hot (90F +) day that if the A/C is on going up a long hill the gauge will go to 3/4 or higher until I top off and then it drops right down. If I leave the A/C off it barely goes above 1/2. It must be dumping an awful lot of heat.
> I can’t believe this is the best DC could do.
Did the hard shifts you reference set the MIL lamp on?
1. Braking. Driving home one night a deer jumped right out in front of me from behind some thick brush. I was only driving 20-25 mph and slammed on the brakes. The car stopped quickly and the deer passed within 2-3 feet of my front bumper. Good brakes.
2. Handling. Driving south on 81 in upstate NY (2 lanes southbound), an 18 wheeler truck passed by me on the left. When his cab was about 50 yards ahead of me the top half of his exhaust pipe fell off and plopped into my lane. It was probably about a 5 foot long pipe 3-4 inches in diameter. I was driving about 65 (the speed limit) and I yanked the wheel hard right and felt for sure I was going in the trees. I quickly yanked the wheel back to the left and found myself going straight down the shoulder. The exhaust pipe of the truck bounced past in the lane I was just in. I got back into my lane and was amazed that the Liberty handled so well. For a top heavy SUV the handling could not be better.
On the 460 mile trip from Lake Ontario to Washington, DC I averaged 26.5 mpg. Calculated directly from my trip odometer and the gallons taken to fill back up. I have gone 3,100 miles and have been very happy with no problems to report so far. It did take about 3/4 of a quart of oil in the first 1,500 miles, but seems to be stabilized now.
I guess I kind of went on a rant. I like this Jeep a lot. It's done everything we have asked it to do, including towing a 5,000# trailer over very hilly terraine.
Overall, I think the positives far outweigh the negatives.
1. If your CRD sits overnight, let it idle for about 30 - 45 seconds after the first start of the day. According to a local Dodge dealer, this is the same transmission they put in fullsize Dodge Trucks. The dealer also stated that the torque converter drains into the body of the transmission if the vehicle is not driven for several hours. This 30 - 45 second idle refills the torque converter and really does smooth out the shifting. If you let your CRD sit for more than a few hours, I would let it idle for the aforementioned time before putting it in gear.
2. You may need a controller update. Check TSB 18-018-05. Had this applied to my CRD and shifting did improve.
3. A light foot on the gas works best and I found that taking the engine past 2500 - 2800 rpm actually worsens the shift a bit. I understand that there will be a device available to re-program the transmission and how it shifts.
I have driven Chrysler products for over 40 years and none of them had the converter drain over night. It usually took somewhere between 1 to 3 weeks for this to happen on older vehicles. I have detected no evidence that my CRD converter has drained in 4 or 5 day intervals that it has been undriven.
I have already adapted my driving style to what you suggest and the result is efficacious.
winter2, you must appreciate the difference in 40 years. In the 60's, Chryslers had accute problems with cold starts during winter in Montreal. My CRD at -34 Celsius starts very well, but it's too cold for the transmission :sick:
I have tried driving in 4WD/LO. The one to two shift will tear your head off at the neck.
I do appreciate the difference 40 years makes. I was not even driving then. At that point in time, most any car had trouble starting when really cold. I had a 1967 Volvo 144. It would start at -30 Fahrenheit, but I still froze my tail off, no heat.
My other diesel, a 1981 Isuzu, started at -20 Fahrenheit after a 3.5 second preheat. The only time it would not start is when the battery died.
I like the stories of diesels starting in cold weather. This is a big concern of mine. Any suggestions to avoid the cold weather problems (short of moving South) are appreciated.