The new tranny solenoid arrived and was installed Thursday afternoon. The tech also performed the 18-018-05 TSB firmware logic update. My little CRD is running fine now and I'm hopeful she stays that way. 6 weeks is too young to be having problems requiring surgery!
Haven't put my finger on it precisely, but there is now a difference in how and when the tranny shifts. Smoother overall. I think I'm going to like it. Thankfully there have been no more hard shifts.
I'll give the dealership and technician credit for perseverance and finally getting it done. The part shipment delays may not have been their fault - but 5 days in the shop did try my patience a bit.
Few people think about this but it's a pain to scrape all windows inside-out when your fingers are frost bitten!
Been there - Used to own a VW Beetle with poor heat exchangers. I drove with one hand on the steering wheel and the other hand had a scraper in hand clearing my frozen breath from the windshield.
I normally drive slow and don't accelerate or decelerate very quickly. However, yesterday I got a bit childish. Another Jeep with a trailer was looking to pass me on a two lane road. I figured I'd speed up to keep him behind and keep my forward visibility. I put the pedal to the metal and zoomed ahead. I gave the other Jeep a big puff of black smoke to breathe.
Is this normal for a diesel to occaisonally belch some black smoke? I used to see the big trucks do that and was told their injectors are off. Is this a sign of injector problems or maybe bad fuel? It was kind of fun to give the other driver the smoke.
I would say high sulfur diesel. I use BP ULSD in my diesel Passat and never get a trace of smoke. By 2006 the diesel should all be cleaner and your Jeep should run better. Most of the clean diesel is higher Cetane rated.
Old vehicles having defective injectors used to smoke continuously. The (my) Jeep has a catalyser to finish the combustion before blowing the exhaust to open air. If you look at the texture of the soot you will see it's 'oily' on old engines and dry on the newer ones. You may have dirty diesel fuel with lots of sulfur and parafine if your engine smokes a lot. This may not be very good for the catalyser as well. I used to have to push mine to 3,500 rpm to release smoke. Now I use ULSD and I can't see any smoke in the rear-view mirror, just traffic looking smaller
My global average mileage over 30,000 miles (~2 years) comes to 10.3 Liters %KM. I kept this figure from the first month of ownership until today. I always have the A/C on at the red/blue limit and I stay away from trouble (the refill costs 150USD here). The Liberty you are getting now should give you 8.8 Liters %KM. Perhaps...
I guess your name fooled me into thinking you lived in Canada. Well I guess that answers the ULSD question. Is France mandated at less than 15 or 50 PPM? I would have to float a loan to fill my old Suburban with it's 46 gallon tank.
We are supposed to get 50 PPM soon. 10 PPM is for january 2009. I'm buying my 10 PPM in Switzerland because I work there. There are two types of clean diesel fuels, one that is ULS and the second ULS B5. I bought the B5 type this winter and it was fine. I can only find ULS now, and my mileage figures are not stable anymore. This may have to do with with refineries that can't provide even quality. So I'm back to the standard 350 PPM (or less) with the stock air-filter, and my mileage meets the specs! I don't know the recepie to use ULS plus canola oil. It may not be worth the try. Nevertheless the engine always ran very well. Someone posted info about potential problems when using B20 fuel. I can confirm this: on the MB 2.7L CRD some fuel return line o-rings leak. We don't have these o-rings on the VM 2.8L but the doubt remains.
That is good to know. I have thought of trying B20 in my Passat. I would hate to void my warranty. BP ULSD is close by and actually the cheapest diesel in my area. I see trucks at my ARCO station filling on a regular basis. It has run great so far. $150 USD to fill up. Is fuel a major part of most Europeans budget, or are the wages very high in the EU?
I can only compare the EU with Canada. Taxes are not taken from the same sources but in the end it practically comes to the same when savings are compared by branch of activity. The Liberty costs a bit more than 1 Euro per Km, fuel being ~11% of this figure. A compact sedan would cost ~0.6 Euro per Km. Comparing to wages of a young couple with two vehicles and a house to pay with a 25 year loan, owning a new Jeep is reserved to the 'Happy Few' professionals. FYI small houses start at ~250,000 Euros, one week groceries ~150 Euros, the Liberty is sold ~33,000 Euros, a nice meal is ~25 Euros per person and 5 tires BFG T/A cost 750 Euros without labour. These prices may seem high at first approach but people still drive for pleasure on week-ends and restaurants are always crowded.
"Are you folks seeing the advertised fuel mileage? 21/26(27?)?"
I'm seeing worse in town and better on the highway. My overall mileage since new (7,500 miles) is 24.5 MPG. Town mileage is 19-20 MPG. Driving at 65 MPH on the highway the average mileage of 4 trips of 700 miles each is 29.1 MPG.
My odometer reads under by 2.1% so the mileage is adjusted for odometer error. Gear ratio is 3.73. Tires are 225 75R 16s. I calculate that when the tires are about worn out the odometer will be pretty close.
If the odometer error is consistent across vehicles with the same specs you might be getting a little better than you are calculating.
I have had no experience with the silicone/ptfe wipers. They are quite expensive, about $20 per blade. I use the higher end Trico or Anco wipers. They work quite well and generally last about eight months. I use rubber covered (winter) wipers during the winter. We get more ice than snow here so rubber covered wipers are mandatory, at least for me.
I am wondering about others and the CRD oil change guidelines. I am coming up on 6k miles which is the "short" schedule oil change, but most of my driving is long distance commute (thats why I bought the diesel in the first place) so I would qualify for the long change. I am curious as to what others are doing and if the dealers have commented, etc.
If you have not changed the oil yet, now is a good time. I did mine at 1450 miles just to get any of the break-in filings, etc. out of the engine.
I wrote to VM Motori about the oil change intervals and they said two things. 1. Follow the recommendations in the owner's manual. or 2. Doing oil changes more frequently is good for the engine.
It is real easy to do. You will need an eight millimeter hex (end looks like an Allen Key wrench) but this one is mounted in a three-eighths inch socket. You will also need to get a copper gasket for the oil plug, and of course an oil filter. Mobil 1 0W-40 is readily available as is Mobil 1 5W-40. You will need to purchase seven quarts as the engine takes six quarts plus 13 ounces from the seventh quart (32 * .4 = 12.8).
Be prepared to use a fair amount of muscle to remove the plug.
Hi! I have been driving diesel cars since 1968. Three MB diesels and now the Liberty. I always change oil at 3K mile intervals. Oil is much cheaper than an engine rebuild. I love my Lib but still miss my old 300SDL.
A reporter would like to interview diesel passenger car and pick-up owners and Southern California residents who'd like to buy a diesel passenger car but can't because new ones aren't sold in California. Please respond to jfallon@edmunds.com by Thursday, July 14, 2005 with your daytime contact info, vehicle year/make/model and city/state of residence, and put the word “diesel” in the subject line.
I contacted Jeep through the website and they had no knowledge of a Renegade Diesel. Folks need to contact them at the website and express a desire to own one.
Yes, we get the advertised economy but didn't for the first 2000 miles.
Typically get 20-22 in town and get anywhere from 25.5 to 28.5 on the open freeway. We got one tank that was 18.5 (the worst so far) but that involved city gridlock, seven 20 mile trips up hills with a trailer loaded with 2500 pounds of gravel and rocks and many freeway mergings.
Hi winter2, Since many years I took the habit of lifting my wipers every time I park my vehicles during winter. This is a simple way to make them last them longer. Other people pull a thick plastic film over the windshield and don't need to clean it when they go. It's just a bit of organisation. Next time I come over I'll bring back a few sets of Trico blades in my luggage. I'm using Bosch wipers now but they are not quite as well built as the asian ones. By the way, I found a nice canadian made plastic shovel to remove the snow off the windshield without risking to scratch it. It's quite a job to get rid of thick snow due to the height of the Jeep!
I changed oil around 2k because the oil was extremely black and appeared to have tiny metallic particles on the dipstick. I changed it again at 6k and the particles were no longer apparent. I am going to follow the 6k schedule since I fit that use category in the owner’s manual.
The oil plug was indeed difficult to break loose on the first and second oil change even though I did not put it on that tight. I put a small amount of antiseize on the drain plug for the next oil change. If you use antiseize on your plug, use it sparingly. I do not think you want any of it in the engine oil.
The engine used a little less than a quart of oil during the first 1,300 miles and stopped using oil after that.
When I remember, I also lift the wiper blades from the windshield, especially if we are going to get an ice storm. I have found putting a plastic cover on the windshield useful but only if it is dry. If the windshield is wet, then the plastic can be a difficult to remove.
For snow removal, I have a broom with soft bristles on it. I had a Dodge Dakota pickup prior to owning this Jeep and it was quite tall, especially the cap.
I do have a suggestion for you. I suggest you bring a wiper arm with you. It could be possible that the attachment point design in Europe is different enough that blades sold here may not be attachable.
The idea of putting anti-seize compound on the oil drain plug scares me, no matter how little you use. I will use it on spark plugs, lug nuts, and other nuts and bolts but not on a drain plug. Before I even consider using anti-seize on the drain plug, let me see how difficult it will be to remove that plug when I change the oil in about 4000 miles.
Well, as I said, the drain plug was difficult to remove at 2k and 6k.
You definitely do not want to use oil or antiseize on lug nuts! Lug nuts and wheel studs should be clean and dry to hold safely and not over torque when installed.
This picture shows 'one of those mornings' I referred to saying it was a tough job. I also have a K-Mart soft brush but it doesn't always help... I have it in my hand on the picture.
I have used anti-seize on lug nuts for years. I have had lug nuts freeze onto the studs and have had to break them, I have not had a problem because I use the copper based anti-seize, and that in very small amounts.
I find it interesting that the oil drain plug would bind up like that. Could you be over-torquing it?
That is Alaska type snow. Is this all winter long in your part of France? I thought France was all Sunny Beaches and topless bathing. That blows my image of France.
"I find it interesting that the oil drain plug would bind up like that. Could you be over-torquing it?"
So do I and no I am not over-torquing it. I had to use a breaker bar the first time. The second time I didn’t need a breaker bar but it was still too tight even though I installed it with an 8 mm bent wrench with one hand.
It is a steel drain plug in an aluminum pan, just like steel spark plugs in an aluminum head which also seize.
I did a little research and I found that car manufacturers have very specific instructions on how to apply antiseize to spark plugs so as not to get the material into the combustion chamber. So there is a concern there also.
I also found where antiseize reduces the required torque on the wrench by 30 to 70% in order to get the same pull on the threads. There is a definite danger in pulling threads or warping brake disks if you use antiseize on good threads and use the full torque recommended on the wrench for good dry threads.
Rusty threads and good threads are apples and oranges. Maybe between the rust and the antiseize you achieved a harmonic balance with the universe.
I used a small amount of antiseize on my drain plug. I’m not worried in the slightest. If you or anyone else have any misgivings about applying it correctly, just don’t do it.
The Jeep came with Goodyear Wrangler S4 tires. They were very good during the first winter because they had enough profile and side grip. The only problem is their 'thermo' rubber wears out extremely fast during summer. I was only able to get a bit more than 20,000 miles on them and I had 3 wheels with only 1/4" profile and 2 with about 3/8" for the rear. Before the 2nd winter arrived, I changed to BFG T/A and they are doing a beautiful job. We have to mount chains on mountain roads, so the choise was simple: 225 instead of 245.
In the Alps we have about 4 months of snow. Drive south 250 miles you have Mediterranean beaches + all you can dream of, drive 400 miles west and you have the Atlantic ocean. Mont-Blanc is just 50 miles south from here and you have snow + glaciers all year! There are even places where you can ski all year round. In the summer you have flowers, beautiful lawns, fruit trees and the snow covering the summits. It's quite a nice place scenery wise. Offroading is not well tolerated in France so I go to Italy and Switzerland to enjoy my Jeep :surprise:
has any one had any problems with there crd engine i've had my jeep liberty CRD for about 6 weeks i only have 756 miles on it and i get 22mpg in city and every thing was fine untill yesterday coming home from shopping it was fine on level road but when i was coming up a hill at 55mph and all of a sudden it dropped down to 40mph and i steeped on my accelurater and it would not encrese speed stade at 40mph i made it home at 40mph and went to go in my drive way and it stoped at the bottom of drive and would not move. had car in drive steeped on excelerrator engine would not speed up and while in drive seting on bottom of driveway engine would shake while running sounded like it was running on two cyldners put jeep in park steeped on pedal engine would speed up slowly put back in drive engine ran on 2 cyl again jeep would not move on 2 cyl tried this several times called my husband and he would run it at 2000rpm in nutrual and put it in drive it would move 2 feet at a time did this a bout 7 times untill he got it to the top of drive way it staled on top of drive way twice third time he started it all of the sudden it ran normal drove in to car port and i called dealer had it towed back to them there going to check it out today 7/7 i love my jeep crd and would hate to get read of it do u think it could be because of the desiel fuel i am using in it i get mine at citgo :confuse:
Yup , I have had my Liberty Ltd for 3 monthes and have over 7,000 miles on her . I just love my Liberty. Quiet ,and smooth !. I have been getting 30 mi/Canadian gallon and I love this vehicle.It's the best thing since sliced bread for us Canucks. Here we are experiencing extremely high fuel prices. Average$ 4.00/gallon of gas,thats why I turned to Diesel. Diesel is averaging $3.50/gallon but our gallon is a bit bigger than a U.S. gallon U.S. gallon 3.8 Litres- Canadian gallon 4.5 Litres.
I am glad finally Chrysler has developed a competitive product. It is very comfortable to travel in and I can tow a trail with this thing,even in the winter. Can't do that with a Jetta... Plus the diesel option and tow package was about $1000. Not bad considering some of the prices of an import diesel.
Plus if I have to get something fixed or oil changes ,there are plenty of Chrysler dealerships around.Besides I get free oil changes .That deal came with the Jeep .Neat ! especially if your paying $8 a bottle for the best synthetic on the market
At least I don't have to go to an econo -box now. It's what all jeep lovers have been waiting for.The Jeep somehow was made into a sport toy when originally was meant for being a practicle family vehicle.
I also have a 94 ' Gr. Cherrokee 4.0L gas engine going on 250,000 miles,can't kill this thing.I'd like to see a toyota 4 runner 10 years old.Hmmm ... I don't see any around here on road I wonder why??.. Peace ..
In one word... it seemed they HATED it. They said it was slow, vibrated, rode poorly and other nasty comments. They liked the CRV which finished first. I can't even imagine comparing the two! One other car they rated decently was the Nissan Xterra. Heck...even the Hyundai Tuscon was rated better than the Jeep. Are these people crazy or what?
1. Software/controller problem. You may need to have a software update or controller repair.
2. Rotten fuel. Just because you buy at a Citgo station does not necessarily mean you are getting Citgo fuel. There are stations that will sell name brand gasolene but sell a no-name brand of diesel. Did you fill up when the tanks were being refilled? You need to be careful about that. I have used their gasolene without problems, but not their diesel. I generally purchase Shell/Texaco or Chevron.
3. Component failure (injectors, pump) but very unlikely.
I do not think they are crazy at all. They are stupid. The CRV and Tucson are based on car chassis so they are more car like in their ride and handling. Also, gasolene engines are far smoother and that is what they are use to. The Nissan is more truck-like and compares more closely with the Liberty. It has more gimmicks like the other two. The Jeep is what it is. It is built like a tank and will do things and go places one would not even think of going in the CRV or Tucson. I wonder which model of CRD they used in their comparison test?
YES they are!! IMO Consumer Reports does a disservice to the car buying public. If a magazine wants to give their opinion on cars or underwear that is fine. CR has gotten people to believe they know what they are talking about. When that is far from the truth. They are no more objective now than they were 40 years ago.
I test drove all the similar size diesel SUVs and 4x4s before I tried the Liberty. I wasn't able to make up my mind and my wife was never really enthusiastic. In the Jeep after a 1/2 hour test ride (not only drive) we started talking about our holidays. That was it! It's also nice to test drive second hand vehicles: you know ahead of time what you will get. I read many reviews in automobile magazines but people seem to want the milk, butter and cream for the same price. (locals say: marry the farmer's daughter at the same time)
I think CR is objective in their testings and does a good service for the consumers. I once owned a gas Liberty and really liked it. I have to agree with what they said about the highway ride though. As someone else said, the Jeep is what it is. I also read the article and they only achieved 18 mpg overall. When I had mine, my avg was closer to 16 (albeit gas). I bet highway only mileage should be in the mid 20's at 70 mph. If gas were cheaper, I'd buy another one as it truly is built like a tank. For now, I am getting by fine in my '04 Prius. One more thing.. I had mine for over 23,000 miles and it was solid as a rock when I traded it in. I kinda miss it for my suburban errands (quite nimble!). I did NOT like the way it went down the highway at 80 though. I had a pre lowered model, so maybe it's better these days. Would love if they put a little 8 cyl in that truck... WOW!!!
I had my fan clutch replaced. Unfortunatey it did not fix the overheating! A trip to Maine towing my 4300lb trailer - it overheated causing a 4 hour trip to be a 6 hour trip! At this point, they don't know what to do.
I remember reading a post about somebody doing a 180 on a wet highway ramp in a Liberty. Also remember about somebody replacing OEM goodyears the day after purchasing a Liberty. Tirerack has a review from a Maryland CRD owner who bought Dueler Alenza's at 111 miles. We experienced OEM goodyear rsa's on a Ford we no longer own. It seems that a lot of people have horror stories about goodyear.
Today I did about a 150 on a wet corner in North Texas following a FWD car that just drove away. The CRD has Trak-loc, but that means nothing I guess with goodyears. I'm tire shopping. 7,500 on the odometer. I'm leaning toward Kumho Venture HT since we had a great experience with Kumho replacements for the rsa's (except for tire life). We'll sacrifice tire life anytime for good traction. Caribou, I think you're running BFG A/T . I think we want to stay with a highway tire, stock size. Any help here will be appreciated.
The CRD has the tire pressure monitor valve stems. Are these permanent? What happens when tires are replaced? Any special care needed by the tire changers?
My old Cherokee slid all over on Goodyears. My Libby has 300 miles on it now and i'm getting Bridgestone Revos. Check out the wet and dry traction on Tire Rack"s chart...they are the best! As long as the tire changers don't damage the little sensors on the valve stems, you should be ok.
I can't believe it ,it must been the 3.7L instead of the Diesel 2.8L.. I towed a 2000 lbs trailer like nothing 500 miles,no problems.It seems the diesel was hardly working. But I don't blame you to going to a Diesel Ram .It sounds like your a traveler with a big load. Peace ...
Hhahah ! ! traded it in for a Prius,that sucks !. At least a diesel Liberty can pull a load ,tackle a hill,go anywhere do anything vehicle,and still get half decent mileage. Besides wait till you have to do the brakes on that thing,or when the battry dies,have you priced one lately,they are close to $6000.00 on a prius . Reliability goes along way ,and I know I can go to any Chrysler dealership and get it fixed affordably,and in a days time too,not weeks waiting for a part. And if you think that it won't break ,because they are an imported JAPANESE product your wrong ! . This is coming from a 94' Gr.Cherrokee owner with 250,000 miles on her ,and can kill her ,now I'd like to see a toyota after 10 years ,Hmmm...No ? can't think of one on the road ,I wonder why?? peace...
thanks winter2 the dealer called me last night and said i could pick up my jeep liberty CRD today they had to Re-Flash it had to put in new software and it should be ok now they drove it 10 miles to make sure said it was ok for them it worked fine took it up hills it was ok, i am afraid to drive it now it might happen to me again was lucky this time i was close to home so i made it to my drive way with it next time it could happen in trafface , thanks for the info on citgo where i go their are a lot of 18 wheelers buying theirs at the station so i hope it is good,how do I know if the desiel is desiel and not bio desiel? is it marked on the pumps? do you know if i can use #1 kerosene in it my husband has a dodge ram 2500 5.9cummins desiel and he can use it in his plus he also burned #2 home heating oil in it and his ran good all winter on it, has never had a problem with his 5.9 cummins engine, thanks again for the reply,
I am the person from Maryland who replaced the stock Goodyear crap with Alenzas at 111 miles. What a difference. No slipping or sliding whatsoever. I have much better straight line stability too.
This is my first time with Bridgestones and so far I am real pleased. Found out something interesting. I am running the tires at 35 - 36 psi instead of the 33 psi that is called for. The ride is a bit firmer but the steering response to inputs is much quicker. Let me see how these do in the snow this winter (if we get any). I usually would have replaced the OEM tires with Pirelli, but there was a real good deal on these. I like Pirelli as they do everything they are suppose to do so very well, except their tread life is so -so no matter how well you take care of them. I avoid Michelin for two reasons, cost and they are very allergic to water.
Comments
Haven't put my finger on it precisely, but there is now a difference in how and when the tranny shifts. Smoother overall. I think I'm going to like it. Thankfully there have been no more hard shifts.
I'll give the dealership and technician credit for perseverance and finally getting it done. The part shipment delays may not have been their fault - but 5 days in the shop did try my patience a bit.
Been there - Used to own a VW Beetle with poor heat exchangers. I drove with one hand on the steering wheel and the other hand had a scraper in hand clearing my frozen breath from the windshield.
I normally drive slow and don't accelerate or decelerate very quickly. However, yesterday I got a bit childish. Another Jeep with a trailer was looking to pass me on a two lane road. I figured I'd speed up to keep him behind and keep my forward visibility. I put the pedal to the metal and zoomed ahead. I gave the other Jeep a big puff of black smoke to breathe.
Is this normal for a diesel to occaisonally belch some black smoke? I used to see the big trucks do that and was told their injectors are off. Is this a sign of injector problems or maybe bad fuel? It was kind of fun to give the other driver the smoke.
I'm buying my 10 PPM in Switzerland because I work there. There are two types of clean diesel fuels, one that is ULS and the second ULS B5. I bought the B5 type this winter and it was fine. I can only find ULS now, and my mileage figures are not stable anymore. This may have to do with with refineries that can't provide even quality. So I'm back to the standard 350 PPM (or less) with the stock air-filter, and my mileage meets the specs! I don't know the recepie to use ULS plus canola oil. It may not be worth the try. Nevertheless the engine always ran very well.
Someone posted info about potential problems when using B20 fuel. I can confirm this: on the MB 2.7L CRD some fuel return line o-rings leak. We don't have these o-rings on the VM 2.8L but the doubt remains.
I'm seeing worse in town and better on the highway. My overall mileage since new (7,500 miles) is 24.5 MPG. Town mileage is 19-20 MPG. Driving at 65 MPH on the highway the average mileage of 4 trips of 700 miles each is 29.1 MPG.
My odometer reads under by 2.1% so the mileage is adjusted for odometer error.
Gear ratio is 3.73. Tires are 225 75R 16s. I calculate that when the tires are about worn out the odometer will be pretty close.
If the odometer error is consistent across vehicles with the same specs you might be getting a little better than you are calculating.
I have had no experience with the silicone/ptfe wipers. They are quite expensive, about $20 per blade. I use the higher end Trico or Anco wipers. They work quite well and generally last about eight months. I use rubber covered (winter) wipers during the winter. We get more ice than snow here so rubber covered wipers are mandatory, at least for me.
I wrote to VM Motori about the oil change intervals and they said two things. 1. Follow the recommendations in the owner's manual. or 2. Doing oil changes more frequently is good for the engine.
It is real easy to do. You will need an eight millimeter hex (end looks like an Allen Key wrench) but this one is mounted in a three-eighths inch socket. You will also need to get a copper gasket for the oil plug, and of course an oil filter. Mobil 1 0W-40 is readily available as is Mobil 1 5W-40. You will need to purchase seven quarts as the engine takes six quarts plus 13 ounces from the seventh quart (32 * .4 = 12.8).
Be prepared to use a fair amount of muscle to remove the plug.
Typically get 20-22 in town and get anywhere from 25.5 to 28.5 on the open freeway. We got one tank that was 18.5 (the worst so far) but that involved city gridlock, seven 20 mile trips up hills with a trailer loaded with 2500 pounds of gravel and rocks and many freeway mergings.
Smokey.
Since many years I took the habit of lifting my wipers every time I park my vehicles during winter. This is a simple way to make them last them longer. Other people pull a thick plastic film over the windshield and don't need to clean it when they go. It's just a bit of organisation. Next time I come over I'll bring back a few sets of Trico blades in my luggage. I'm using Bosch wipers now but they are not quite as well built as the asian ones. By the way, I found a nice canadian made plastic shovel to remove the snow off the windshield without risking to scratch it. It's quite a job to get rid of thick snow due to the height of the Jeep!
The oil plug was indeed difficult to break loose on the first and second oil change even though I did not put it on that tight. I put a small amount of antiseize on the drain plug for the next oil change. If you use antiseize on your plug, use it sparingly. I do not think you want any of it in the engine oil.
The engine used a little less than a quart of oil during the first 1,300 miles and stopped using oil after that.
For snow removal, I have a broom with soft bristles on it. I had a Dodge Dakota pickup prior to owning this Jeep and it was quite tall, especially the cap.
I do have a suggestion for you. I suggest you bring a wiper arm with you. It could be possible that the attachment point design in Europe is different enough that blades sold here may not be attachable.
Well, as I said, the drain plug was difficult to remove at 2k and 6k.
You definitely do not want to use oil or antiseize on lug nuts! Lug nuts and wheel studs should be clean and dry to hold safely and not over torque when installed.
I find it interesting that the oil drain plug would bind up like that. Could you be over-torquing it?
What brand/type of tires do you have on your CRD? I got rid of my Goodyears in the first 110 miles. They were terrible.
So do I and no I am not over-torquing it. I had to use a breaker bar the first time. The second time I didn’t need a breaker bar but it was still too tight even though I installed it with an 8 mm bent wrench with one hand.
It is a steel drain plug in an aluminum pan, just like steel spark plugs in an aluminum head which also seize.
I did a little research and I found that car manufacturers have very specific instructions on how to apply antiseize to spark plugs so as not to get the material into the combustion chamber. So there is a concern there also.
I also found where antiseize reduces the required torque on the wrench by 30 to 70% in order to get the same pull on the threads. There is a definite danger in pulling threads or warping brake disks if you use antiseize on good threads and use the full torque recommended on the wrench for good dry threads.
Rusty threads and good threads are apples and oranges. Maybe between the rust and the antiseize you achieved a harmonic balance with the universe.
I used a small amount of antiseize on my drain plug. I’m not worried in the slightest. If you or anyone else have any misgivings about applying it correctly, just don’t do it.
I think balance is a local phenomenon!
tidester, host
I just love my Liberty. Quiet ,and smooth !.
I have been getting 30 mi/Canadian gallon and I love this vehicle.It's the best thing since sliced bread for us Canucks.
Here we are experiencing extremely high fuel prices.
Average$ 4.00/gallon of gas,thats why I turned to Diesel.
Diesel is averaging $3.50/gallon but our gallon is a bit bigger than a U.S. gallon
U.S. gallon 3.8 Litres- Canadian gallon 4.5 Litres.
I am glad finally Chrysler has developed a competitive product.
It is very comfortable to travel in and I can tow a trail with this thing,even in the winter.
Can't do that with a Jetta...
Plus the diesel option and tow package was about $1000.
Not bad considering some of the prices of an import diesel.
Plus if I have to get something fixed or oil changes ,there are plenty of Chrysler dealerships around.Besides I get free oil changes .That deal came with the Jeep .Neat ! especially if your paying $8 a bottle for the best synthetic on the market
At least I don't have to go to an econo -box now.
It's what all jeep lovers have been waiting for.The Jeep somehow was made into a sport toy when originally was meant for being a practicle family vehicle.
I also have a 94 ' Gr. Cherrokee 4.0L gas engine going on 250,000 miles,can't kill this thing.I'd like to see a toyota 4 runner 10 years old.Hmmm ... I don't see any around here on road I wonder why??..
Peace ..
1. Software/controller problem. You may need to have a software update or controller repair.
2. Rotten fuel. Just because you buy at a Citgo station does not necessarily mean you are getting Citgo fuel. There are stations that will sell name brand gasolene but sell a no-name brand of diesel. Did you fill up when the tanks were being refilled? You need to be careful about that. I have used their gasolene without problems, but not their diesel. I generally purchase Shell/Texaco or Chevron.
3. Component failure (injectors, pump) but very unlikely.
YES they are!! IMO Consumer Reports does a disservice to the car buying public. If a magazine wants to give their opinion on cars or underwear that is fine. CR has gotten people to believe they know what they are talking about. When that is far from the truth. They are no more objective now than they were 40 years ago.
It's also nice to test drive second hand vehicles: you know ahead of time what you will get.
I read many reviews in automobile magazines but people seem to want the milk, butter and cream for the same price. (locals say: marry the farmer's daughter at the same time)
darn!
Today I did about a 150 on a wet corner in North Texas following a FWD car that just drove away. The CRD has Trak-loc, but that means nothing I guess with goodyears. I'm tire shopping. 7,500 on the odometer. I'm leaning toward Kumho Venture HT since we had a great experience with Kumho replacements for the rsa's (except for tire life). We'll sacrifice tire life anytime for good traction.
Caribou, I think you're running BFG A/T .
I think we want to stay with a highway tire, stock size.
Any help here will be appreciated.
The CRD has the tire pressure monitor valve stems. Are these permanent? What happens when tires are replaced? Any special care needed by the tire changers?
I towed a 2000 lbs trailer like nothing 500 miles,no problems.It seems the diesel was hardly working.
But I don't blame you to going to a Diesel Ram .It sounds like your a traveler with a big load.
Peace ...
traded it in for a Prius,that sucks !.
At least a diesel Liberty can pull a load ,tackle a hill,go anywhere do anything vehicle,and still get half decent mileage.
Besides wait till you have to do the brakes on that thing,or when the battry dies,have you priced one lately,they are close to $6000.00 on a prius .
Reliability goes along way ,and I know I can go to any Chrysler dealership and get it fixed affordably,and in a days time too,not weeks waiting for a part.
And if you think that it won't break ,because they are an imported JAPANESE product your wrong ! .
This is coming from a 94' Gr.Cherrokee owner with 250,000 miles on her ,and can kill her ,now I'd like to see a toyota after 10 years ,Hmmm...No ? can't think of one on the road ,I wonder why??
peace...
the dealer called me last night and said i could pick up my jeep liberty CRD
This is my first time with Bridgestones and so far I am real pleased. Found out something interesting. I am running the tires at 35 - 36 psi instead of the 33 psi that is called for. The ride is a bit firmer but the steering response to inputs is much quicker. Let me see how these do in the snow this winter (if we get any). I usually would have replaced the OEM tires with Pirelli, but there was a real good deal on these. I like Pirelli as they do everything they are suppose to do so very well, except their tread life is so -so no matter how well you take care of them. I avoid Michelin for two reasons, cost and they are very allergic to water.