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Comments
Pro Vent 200
Also this is where you can purchase it. I've purchased mine yesterday.
provent purchase
The automatics just churn the fluid too much at low speeds if the torque converter is not locked.
With the overdrive in, the transmission shifts at 50 and locks the converter as long as you don't have the pedal pressed too far, otherwise it may not shift until 60+.
I prefer a stick, in my Cummins truck you can slip the clutch some until the turbo kicks in and you can launch better if you are trying to beat traffic.
I do like the idea of the semi-auto. Is it possible to convert with some switching or is the control box going to have to be changed/re-programmed?
Lazyace54
-Put the shifter in 1st gear and note the speed at 2200 rpm.
-Put in 2nd and note again at 2200 rpm.
-Put in Drive with the OD/OFF and note the speed again at 2200 rpm.
-Set the OD/ON and keep the same speed. You should now be in 4th gear.
-Accelerate to 2200 rpm slowly, and you will feel the smooth shift into 5th gear.
It took me some time to get used to the soft shifting but now I play with the throttle to choose the gear I want to stay in.
Concerning the semi-automatic shifter I once found a web site describing a kit for the 545-RFE. It already exists but too early for my warranty
The CRD may be a bit small for towing, but if they think that it should not be advertised as a tow rig.
Thanks,
Jeff
I didn't use anything as of yet. The message that I posted about the installation was from another CRD owner who installed his Provent. Instead of being 28 feet, it was 28"(inches) to be exact. My provent will be coming in a few days and when I get it installed I will have pictures and step by step instruction of how I installed it.
I was thinking instead of spending $$ on the Provent, how about ducting it into the air filter box? You would need 1.5' of tubing and a fitting on the air filter box. You could simply clean out the accumulated oil (not much) at each oil change. The air filter would block the oil and it would sit in the bottom of the box.
Any thoughts?
Excellent. I just got my provent. I didnt have any time to install, but took a quick look inside to get ideas on how involved the install is going to be. It could be a bit tricky to get it installed. Just not much room in there. I look forward to hearing from ya when you get down to installing yours. I may attempt it next weekend. Have to get my defective egr replaced first. :mad:
I hope to get my provent asap almost any day now and I'll get some pictures and what material I used as well. Who knows maybe you might have a better idea. That's what this forum is about.
Yeah, egr went bad. Day by day accelleration is getting worse. And i mean its BAD. Takes a good 3 seconds before the engine responds to pedal input and then a huge cloud of soot follows.I have a feeling its stuck in the open position filling my intake with soot. Not good
tidester, host
Problems occur with ALL vehicles! One should not infer statistical trends based solely on postings in a forum because, clearly, the "polling" does not comprise a random sample of the population. Those with the misfortune to experience difficulties are more likely to speak out.
tidester, host
If you rev the engine in Neutral, does the engine respond normally?
Did the engine stall and show a warning light on the console?
When the truck stopped running did you have a full tank?
Does your engine produce a lot of black smoke?
From what you are describing I think you have to separate possible issues from the transmission and the engine. It takes about 20 miles to get the transmission fluid to it's normal viscosity (temperature) and then it may tend to 'stick' more in the lower rpms when the engine does not yet give it's maximum torque. Typical behaviour from this tranny going uphill is to shift in 4th and lock the converter. I get away from this condition by downshifting with the OD/OFF.
If your engine stops, check that the fuel filter is full of fuel in the sight glass underneath it. You can have a loose fuel line clamp on the filter housing or air coming in via the manual priming pump stem located on top of the filter. The actuator of the priming pump needs a bit of lubrification to avoid damaging the seals.
The common rail vibrates with the engine and you will have to check for leaks with a 17mm tube spanner if you smell diesel fuel when you come to a stop and the engine is stil running. But this is normal after 30,000 miles.
I would advise you to visit a diesel specialist to gain confidence because not all Jeep mechanics seem to have enough experience to comfort their customers.
http://www.autoblog.com/entry/1234000043026662/
It is fortunate that of those people who know about this forum can share their misfortunes with us. Take into the consideration the amount of people that do know about any forums that cannot report the problem to others.
A turbocharger spins at speeds between 35,000 and 70,000 RPM and sometimes more. Oil is used to lubricate and cool the bearing(s). If you shutdown the engine without letting the turbocharger spin down (cool down), you will do significant damage to the bearing(s) and/or coke the oil sitting in the turbocharger bearing housing. Yes, you can coke synthetic oil. I suggest you commit that page to memory and follow it to the letter.
As to contributing to an overheating problem, not likely. A turbocharger might contribute to an overheating issue if the engine was overboosted, but there are safe guards for that. If a turbo fails, generally there is little or no boost and engine performance goes down the toilet. If the bearing seal on the turbocharger fails, there will be lots of blue smoke from the oil that leaks past the failed seal.
I feel for the people who are having issues and are getting treated badly by their dealers or by DC.
To those that have the studdering, missing, and drastic performance losses: pull off to the side of the road, turn off the engine, depress the fuel/water separator pump on the left firewall up to a dozen times. Restart. Voila! Here's a bit of a smoking gun too: Both my company's and my family's CRD have badly stuttered once each, needing massaging of the fuel/water separator, exactly after refueling at previously untried fueling stations. Both CRDs have logged 4 - 6k miles, otherwise. The lesson may be to find a source for fuel that suits your Liberty CRD and try to stick with it, but there's some grace for those who don't- if you don't mind lifting the hood occasionally.
What and where located is the "high-pressure bypass filter"? It's on the regular service schedule.
Finally, can somebody provide technical insight into why running Castrol Syntec 100% synthetic 5W-50 in the CRD may be a bad idea during the warmer season (we average highs of 90-105 degrees in August and have lots of hills)? Per a previous post, I don't get why a multi-vis oil viscosity "spread" (50-5 = 45) itself is an issue. Maybe the 50 is too thick, even for summer, possibly? I was planning to run the 0W-40 November thru April. Brrr! Really glad our '05 Liberty CRD has the standard plug-in block heater.
Since they replaced it the CRD starts easier and my mileage has gone up,. Now getting 25-26 MPG.
When the fuel priming pump gives you a 'VOILA' result just after a short massage session, this is due to the trapped air in the filter that you push away into the return line. Your fuel line clamps are probably not tight enough, or so tight that they deformed the material and let air in.
1. I have been keeping a log. The misses start after driving about 7-10 miles. Speed doesn't seem to matter, but I normally drive 65 - 70 mph, then it starts with a little jump, almost as if the road is not smooth, then it gets worse, especially when I accelerate, and I am not talking about extremes, just normal for hills etc. Until today, I could minimize it if I slowed down some, but it never would go away. Today it was worse and I had to pull off the highway and ultimately it quit running. I then waited 3 or 4 minutes and got it running well enough to limp into a gas station and get a tow to the dealer service. When we got there, it started okay and we parked it for tomorrows service.
2. When this is happening the engine will still miss, but I don't I tried that more than a couple of times. Sometimes at idle in Park, it would be smooth.
3. No lights at all, ever.
4. The tank has been at various levels from full to less than a quarter tank.
5. No smoke at all and no fuel smell in my garage either.
The Shop foreman has been the lead on this and has been trying his best, he mentioned something about checking fuel filter seals and took fuel samples too.
Oh, and it did occasionally shift "harder" from 1st to 2nd, but only when I was frustrated and really hit the accelerator hard.
One good thing is I am sure the service people really want to solve the problem, but I am losing faith in the vehicle and if we can't get solved this time I am going to forget about another CRD to replace it.
I am going to pass on your comments to the service people. Thanks.
Now my only problem is the damn overheating.
2- If the engine idles smoothly in Park, the engine controller is ok.
3- Same as for line 2
4- Various levels of fuel eliminate the tank breather.
5- No smoke no smell means the fuel line is ok after the filter where there is pressure and the EGR is working.
Besides the fuel filter seals, you always have the problem when the gas pedal is pressed. Perhaps the connections to the throttle potentiometer should be checked. If you have an intermittent contact here, the controller will switch between idle and run just to obey to the incoming signal.
Did the problem ever occur when driving with the Cruise-Control On?
What is spirited driving? Is this high engine RPMs? Is this driving fast on a hot day with the windows down? Is this city driving with stop, accelerate like a bat from Hades and then ram the brakes again?
My idea of spirited driving is getting where I'm going and than getting out of the vehicle. I don't mind letting it idle for 30 seconds, but I don't want to sit in the vehicle for a couple of extra minutes. Can't I just trust the temperature gauge or should I install an oil temperature gauge as well? If the turbo is hot, won't this be reflected by the oil temperature?
I bought this vehicle for a long life engine, good mileage and off road use for logging roads. Those high turbo RPMs sound like trouble to me. If there are special considerations for cool down, they should be carefully explained in the manual that came with the car. I haven't checked. Are they in there?
I guess our problems are, as I believe stated before, not the best quality inspected parts used on an assemby line with problems. Someone on another thread here stated that the Liberty was in the ten worst list for 2004. I guess I believe it now. But if DC steps up to the plate, rolls some heads, and does the right thing, this CRD would be the wonderful (and trouble free) vehicle we thought we bought.
An aside, does anyone remember a 1987 magazine article that compared, I believe this Toledo plant and Honda's at Marysville. Paraphrasing from "my memory?", the Jeep plant was using hammers and 2x4's to get vehicles (the old waggoneers?) out to the dealers while down the road Honda's were rolling out the door. And yes all manufacturers buy fom the same guys, try to keep build cost down, and all have problems.
Most every other turbocharged vehicle has a comparable schedule, be it gasolene or diesel. This turbocharger uses air and oil to keep the temperature in check. On my old 1985 Dodge Daytona, the bearing housing was also water cooled. I still "cooled down" the turbo back then and the harder I drove it, the longer the cool down.
Synthetic oil is a wonderful thing, but it to has limits. The temperature of the turbo is not reflected in the temperature of the oil. Remember, the turbo is directly exposed to the heat of the exhaust gases so if you have been cruising along at seventy plus mph, then things are going to be mighty hot at the turbocharger. Letting the engine idle for several minutes lets alot of that heat dissipate, thus saving the oil and more importantly the bearing(s) and seal(s).
If you want the turbo to last as long as the engine, then treat it well. Turbochargers generally fail from lack of proper care.
I fully support your point of view but it's time for DC to speak up to customers and not only to share holders. They've done a lot of damage to these trucks compared to the early ones that were ment for "people who are less demanding". Asians sell good trucks here as well and I've not yet heard of complaints about their common rail engines. If I ever wreck my truck by accident I may think twice before buying a new one. It's pleasant from my side to try to help out a few people back home, but this should stop at some point. Usually people don't talk about good stuff and sometimes forget the make.