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Comments
I had a look at my CCV. The engine oil fumes are condensed (trapped) in a filter housing 3" diameter by 1/2" thick then the succion hose connects after the air filter. It's so full of big hoses down there that I don't know where you could fix the aftermarket filter?
I think the real issue will be the EGR. There are many french posts complaining about the poor quality of the Bosch valves (preference goes to Siemens). Some of them jam in the 'OPEN' position after 10,000 miles and the engines start to clog the intake manifolds with soot and produce black smoke. Clogging seems to come from a valve that stays open at low revs under load (typ. city driving + manual shift).
The 'local remedy' is simply to rev up the engine to max once every now and then to check for smoke. If the engine smokes, in principle you have to clean the EGR valve and it's hose/tube.
With the automatic gearbox the engine is never under load at low revs, but the EGR can stay open and screw-up the catalyser.
Renault seems to be the worst of them all and tells customers not to drive in the city with common rails. This is like a dog running after it's tail: modern diesels are cleaner but don't use them everywhere. We should make lemon juice out of this one ... :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
Same problem here and same first go round with the Dealer. He has since declared the problem as being a defective sensor in the EGR valve. He has ordered a new valve and is going to replace it. No problems with the engine or vehicle to date. Recent trip of 470 miles round trip and my fuel gauge is between 1/4 and E. Not bad, I am waiting for the fill up to see what the economy was for the tank.
Cheers,
Will
WIX also puts out a filter as well for the 2.8
Will
This is a posting that I found with regards to installing the MannProvent CCV filter system. I just think that this will save the CRD engine so much!!! Anyways, it's just a little food for thought. This was done on a Jeep Liberty CRD
"However, I can share this: I tried to fit the Provent in every possible open area I could find and it would not fit anywhere on the firewall, except in areas so low it was too close to the exhaust pipe and probably would have melted.
I ended up using the boost controller vacuum tank stand to attach it to. This is located on the passenger side of the engine bay and has a little round filter on it as well as a vacuum line running over to the vacuum actuator on the VGT. It is right next to the outside edge of the engine bay.
My suggestion is to take the Provent, and use tie-wraps to temporarily attach it to the vacuum boost controller. Then measure the length's of 3/4" I.D (iirc) pvc pipe, available from Lowes, from the oil separator on top of the engine and to the air intake on the VGT hose from the air cleaner. It helps to remove the air cleaner plastic box while your measuring. Mine used about 28" feet for the intake clear PVC tubing and I purchased 48" of the reinforced pvc for the Provent output tubing (more than I needed), as well as 6 or 8 clamps.
I ended up using reinforced pvc for the line from the output of the Provent (bottom of Provent) to the VGT air intake pipe fitting, due to its strength. I also ended up using clear pvc 3/4" ID (iirc, check this measurement on the Provent just in case its bigger) from the oil separator to the input to the Provent, as I could heat it and get it fitted over the Provent inlet pipe. I routed the output tubing from the Provent down the fender line, past the airbox and upward back up and then down into the intake hose input into the Turbo. This should keep any possible oil that may eventually make it out of the Provent from shooting straight down into the turbo, just like it does on the factory setup.
Once you have your measurements made, you can count the numbe of clamps you'll need. Don't forget the bottom drain on the Provent, as it needs some piping to to contain the oil collected. I used 1/2" (again going from memory here, so check all of these dimensions before you buy the hose) with a plastic cap from Lowes so that the oil would not drain on the roadway.
Now for the hard part... you'll have to get some aluminum or plastic that you can make into a mounting stand for the Provent. Look at the mount for the EGT boost controller and you can make an L bracket that will bolt onto the same mounting bolt that the boost controller is connected to. The only thing you're doing is providing an upright bracket that you can drill 2 holes into that will allow you to use the Provent mountholes...that's the only hard part.
If you don't want to do that, take it down to your local fab shop and show them the Provent and the boost controller mount point and ask them to make a L bracket to mount the Provent.
Or, you could do the unthinkable, and use tie-wraps to hold it place, but I wouldn't recommend it for anything except testing out your flexible pvc hose connections.
Speaking of hose connections, it works out better to buy 2 - 3/4" copper elbows (from the plumbing section of Lowes or Home Depot) and add some short pvc sections to the Provent, and insert the copper elbows, clamp them and then connect the longer pvc sections to those at right angles. If you don't, you will still be able to attach the pvc hoses, but they will be at sharp right angles and eventually stress until they crack..
Look the TDI site installation of their Provent - the reinforced PVC with the white xx is what I used for the output side of the Provent, but it proved too stiff to manuever and heat fit onto the Provent input. So I switched to the same ID clear PVC which is actually thinner and easier to work with for the oil separator to the Provent input. I also added some 7/8" wire loom over the entire length of the pvc tubing, wherever it came close to anything, to keep the engine cover from rubbing a hole in the clear pvc, and some smaller wire loom on the AC filter drier pipe as the Provent inlet pipe will route right in between one of the aluminum pipes on the AC receiver drier, mounted on the passenger firewall. You don't want that rubbed into an AC leak - while my clamp on the clear pvc didn't touch the AC receiver drier, I added the wire loom just in case it ever did.
Speaking of wire loom, I also added some 1/2" wire loom on the diesel fuel line (this has nothing to do with the Provent install) from the filter to the IP input pump, because the factory routing had mine rubbing on a clamp like device on the exhaust cooled EGR manifold input on the drivers side of the engine. I saw it from the bottom of the engine bay while doing an inspection one day. I felt the diesel flexible line near the cooled EGR input into the large intake area and could feel a definite indentation where the clamp had cut away some of the fuel line. I didn't want that fuel line springing a leak out on a deserted Interstate one fine 110 degree day so I protected it with the wire loom."
Steve, Host
I'm glad to hear Fram, Purolator, etc. have a filter out for the 2.8 liter now. I had to buy a $17 Mopar for my first change.
My recommendation to anyone reading this forum who is considering purchasing this vehicle? Don't do it. Wait to see if DC will admit the problem and provide a fix for it.
This is the type of wire loom I'm using to replace the original:
http://www.htamericas.com/media/downloads/pdf/plc_network.pdf
Its' the PTFE 'Spiralwrap' shown on page 94. I've used and recycled it since many years without any problem.
I fear the pvc line will age very fast and harden with heat. Can't you get thick silicon tubing used in chemistry labs?
From what some other people have said on this forum, removing the oil drain plug on subsequent oil changes is no less difficult than the first one was.
Over here people change every 12 or 20,000 miles because they are scared. Taxi drivers often forget they have oil in their engines so do friends of mine who never change it, they just top it off. I've not yet seen a broken engine because of dirty oil.
Here is a cute link about oil change:
http://www.go-synthetic.com/409_000_Mack/409_000_mack.htm
After that, I will go about 4,000 to 5,000 miles between changes. I have two reasons for this. First, the fuel here is not the low-sulfur variety you have in europe and the TBN of the oil is not particularly high. Second, 60% to 70% of my driving is city/short trip.
Generally, I will change the oil in the early Spring and then again in late autumn or about every six months. Oil and filters are a lot cheaper than a new engine.
Perhaps you can still do this from where you live and you would be surprised to know that you are throwing away good oil. The cost was ~35 CAD at the time. Since then I changed my habits and saved a lot of money
My concern about Mobil 1 0W-40 is twofold. The viscosity spread of forty points is a bit much for my taste. I am a fan of 10W-30 oils. They offer some of the best protection and some of the best lubricating properties too. 10W-30 will flow more easily into places that a 40 weight simply will not. Also, the TBN number of the 0W-40 is unknown. Considering that only high sulfur fuel is available to me, it makes it imperative that I change my oil more frequently. Amsoil 15W-40 has a TBN of greater than twelve. I believe that the Mobil 1 5W-40 also has a TBN of twelve or better. The Mobile 1 SHC 5W-40 has a TBN of sixteen.
When the low sulfur fuels become mandatory next year, then I will extend the drain interval to 6,000 miles.
-some have declared fan clutch issues
-some have declared self applying brakes
If someone doesn't have both issues simultaneously, I would be surprised that the brakes alone can generate the overheating problem when the fan clutch is ok. The radiator accounts for the engine heat at full power, the brakes only simulate an additional load. It shure would be nice to hear from DC how they figured out the cooling of the transmission plus the engine.
On my truck I can count a total of 5 heat exchangers, a small 2x10" in the bottom right corner, one that's about 12" high whole width perhaps transmission, the A/C 14", the intercooler and a separate full size engine radiator. All this outfit works quite well with only one fan. Would this sound like an option :confuse:
For pure comprehension it would be nice to know the 'detail' of what went wrong. I believe this could help CRD owners that did not yet have problems. The vacuum booster is a 'generic' term in the sense that it has several components around it, and most likely only one of them is faulty. The same applies for the cooling circuit.
I think generally you'll see a lot of problems discussed here as that's one of the most helpful aspects of this forum. It gets a little old hearing how much people love their CRDs. What else can you say, really, beyond "I love my CRD"? I think if you could poll the people on this forum, most all would say they like the CRD.
Similar to reading the newspaper, you start to wonder if it's worth living.
Bigpapa
1. Remove the yellow oil filler cap and put it on side.
2. Pull up on the front of the cover. Make sure the four rubber grommets come up with it.
3. Replace the yellow oil filler cap.
If you are going to replace the cover.
1. Remove the yellow oil filler cap and put it on side.
2. Make sure all the four rubber grommets are in the cover. Spray a little silicone on them, especially in the holes.
3. Place the rear part of the cover on the stems and push down. Duplicate with the front.
4. Replace the yellow oil filler cap.
link title
I ran the interstate with the outside temp @ ~102F. On the one fairly long grade the trans temp got to 188 and the engine temp gauge went 2 lines past the 1/2.
Today I ran a longer grade with the outside temp @ 73F. The trans temp got to 203 and the engine temp barely got over 1/2. Neither time was I towing anything.
Both times had the A/C on.
Engine and Trans temp do not seem to correlate.
I live in Western SD and have driven some of the roads you may have taken to the west coast. You said you didn't have any problems pulling the hills, and there are some long ones on I-90. If it wasn't pulling hard you wouldn't think that the transmission would be getting that hot.
An auxiliary cooler might help, but I don't think you should have roasted the transmission pulling a load only 80% of the rating.
According to the chart @ http://www.txchange.com/heatchrt.htm you would have been having a temperature of 275F quite a few times to have heat to have caused the failure in such a short time. I would think that this high a temperature would have caused the engine temp to show higher than normal.
Did your fluid look/smell burnt? I lost the transmission in a Durango. The fluid looked fine but all of the clutches were burnt up. I had not worked it that hard for a failure at 80000 mi.
Was that in your CRD? Do you already have 80k miles on your Liberty?
I was most impressed with the gas mileage: 25 mpg. Pick up was fantastic. Went from 60-80 reasonably quickly, except when going up a hill. Motor was strong after 12 hrs of running. Handling is tricky due to short wheelbase, low-rpm favoring transmission, and low-end torque. On exit ramps, it sometimes helped to shift out of Overdrive.
I read these messages and will hold my breath once I start towing my 17 ft boat. I'll post my experiences.
I was towing a small trailer with four wheeler and top speed was around 55-60 but RPM's were 3,000. This seems odd to me. It seemed like it should have shifted again but would not.
What have you guys experienced.
Thanks,
DRT
No transmission problems with the CRD, just wish it had a stick.
I have two CRD's and also very familier with VW's problems.Only 5000 mi. on the Liberties but want to avoid the issues I also believe will arise.
Thank you,
Lazyace54
I've had the CRD in the shop over 3 times now, with no satisfaction or any indication they know what the problem is or how to fix it. I did replace the fan clutch and that didn't help. I sent certified letters to DC asking for help, with no replies.
Now it will go into a public forum, a hearing before Arbitration Board, and DC will be forced to address the issue. I'll post the date and results of the hearing. I'm asking for a new vehicle, hoping that it is not a design flaw but rather a component failure (I really like the CRD if it wasn't for the issues). I say my case is good, at least it will elevate the issue to a point that they have to respond in a public forum. DC also has one more chance to fix it BEFORE the hearing, per the Demand note. So far no word from DC.