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Comments
1) Don't buy it if you don't need or want it. It should be bought for transportation. You're going to have it a while so you've got to feel good about it.
2) Ever hear of Peak Oil? There's only so much of that liquid gold in the ground. Do you think the cost per gallon will stay at $2.59 per gallon? What was it last year? The folks in China and India are buyin' more cars and usin' more oil. If the price keeps going up, that $1800 will seem cheap.
3) How long do you want to keep it? If you take care of a diesel engine, they are supposed to go many miles. Wouldn't you like to drive it 5 years after it's paid off?
4) I've noticed that sometimes the price of diesel is lower than gas and sometimes it's higher. The price of diesel really seems to jump around and vary from station to station. I've read that historically diesel has been cheaper than gas. You fill it up a lot less with the better mileage so that may be part of the reason the price seems so jumpy.
5) I'd like to think the Jeep is made a bit better than some other SUVs which are basically cars with a redesigned body. I like to think the Liberty is a real Jeep, maybe a bit more rugged and sure footed when you need it to be. In slippery weather, this is good.
6) Good visibility. It's been a comfortable vehicle. It's a lot easier to drive than my old truck.
Mine hasn't overheated. It smoked when it was cold and one time as I really gunned it to pass. The only problem I had was a bad mirror switch. the dealer honored the warranty and getting it fixed was quite painless.
When I heard the RPM figures of some of these that overheated, it's getting to look like a transmission problem.
Take on for a ride. Go North on I-43 and get the feel of it. Try some hills and see that the engine just sits at a constant RPM. See if you like it. I found it hard to believe how low the RPMs were on this vehicle. It's 1800 RPM at 60 mph.
I wonder if the CRD is not a city car though. I think it likes to cruise rather than be driven like people in large cities drive. Maybe it's not a Milwaukee vehicle.
New theory: When I experienced dragging in an earlier post I thought it was the transmission because the brakes were not hot. I probably didn’t drive far enough to get the brakes hot and the big aluminum alloy wheels did a pretty good job of sinking the heat. I’m sorry if I misled you or anyone else.
The next time I drove and drag was apparent, I pulled into my garage and jacked up the rear of the CRD under the differential with the ENGINE RUNNING in park (be safe if you do this). With out a limited slip differential I was UNABLE to rotate the rear wheels alternately by hand. I let it down and jacked up each front wheel and checked to see if these wheels rotated freely by hand (I used a short piece of 2X6 on the jack to protect the lower control arm). All 4 wheels were locked up and there didn’t seem to be any free play on the brake pedal – engine running, in 2 wheel drive. I made sure the pedal was returning all the way. The power booster/brake system may be autonomously actuating the brakes.
Next, I shut the engine off and waited a little while. The wheels then rotated freely, so the booster/brake system could be the culprit. Something is locking up the brakes until after the engine is shut down.
I missed this the first go around because the vehicle rolled freely in neutral by hand after I shut it off. Dragging brakes apparently will not necessarily produce a brake warning light but it’s definitely a defect. Our CRD must be driven 10 to 20 minutes of normal driving in town now before the drag is apparent.
The dealer hauled it in on a flat bed so as not to risk any damage. This dealer will find the problem. They acknowledged having 2 other CRD’s overheat. What’s the probability that 3 off the same lot would overheat?
By the way, there is also a power train fault code. You can easily look for codes. With the odometer set for trip, turn the ignition on and off 4 times leaving it on the 4th time. Someone posted this many pages back.
This may not be your problem Spete. I hope it's something simple like this.
Thanks in advance.
Daniel
Flash memory or "EPROM" technology is nearly 20 years old, so don't tell me this is new technolgy. Clearing flash memory is a very simple process.
The only aspect of engine failures are people using the wrong diesel or using biodiesel which has not been sufficiently purified (eliminated all glycerine by-products) which may foul the injectors.
I really want to purchase a Liberty CRD or Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD, but until they resolve these problematic issues, I can't believe the Jeep CRD coordinator hasn't received any complaints. Wow, what a space cadet!
john81
I hope you enjoy your CRD as much as I do.
1. In the owner's manual, there is a page about turbocharger cool down. It is in the 220 - 230 page range. Get to know that page well.
2. If you have never driven a diesel before, a light right foot works best with the CRD. You do not need to floor it to make it go. I keep revs under 2500 RPM and rarely get to 3000 rpm. There is simply no need to push the engine that hard.
3. Expect to use about 1 quart of oil in the first 500 - 700 miles. This is normal.
4. First start of the day. Let the engine idle for about 20 - 30 seconds before putting it in gear. This refills the torque converter.
5. Drive gently for the first few miles or until the engine warms up. I have have had better drivability doing it this way.
6. Use good quality fuel. Avoid no-name stuff. Look at the cetane rating. Higher is better. I use Shell which has a cetane rating of 45. If you have a busy truck stop nearby, go there. You know the fuel will be good.
7. I would change the oil and filter at about 1500 miles to get the break-in by products out of the engine. I found the engine ran much better after dumping the factory fill.
8. Tires. I am not a fan of Goodyear tires. If you are happy with them then run with them. Increase the tire pressure to 35 or 36 psi. This has very little impact on the ride, but you will have better control and handling. See if the dealer will buy them back, mine did. I replaced them with Bridgestone Alenza tires. Vast improvement over the Goodyears. If you want to save some money, mail order them. I got mine from The Tirerack (www.tirerack.com).
Enjoy.
If you found a source for VGT information, please let us know.
Thanks
My Fig. 10 is Charge Air Cooler Inlet Hose. Fig 11 is the wastegate.
I guess I'll be calling tech authority monday morning.
$53.50 with shipping from Canada
One item to note: The use of greater than B5 will void your warranty (if the biodiesel is deemed to be the cause of the problem). How the dealer would know that you have used greater than B5, I don't know.
I find that the CRD runs better with some biodiesel, and it will help the engine last longer. If in doubt, just use B5. B5 is almost equal in lubricity to B20 and above anyway. It is just when you get above B20 that the solvency effect comes into play.
Jeep needs to be sued! I would request that a petition be drawn up with all unsatisfied customers and take it to a lawyer. I am sure there'll be people waiting in line to sign this thing, and let Jeep test its loyalty to the general public by honoring to fix these vehicles or face a might tough court case.
Jeep will continue to tell its customers "Pack Sand" if its customers just lay down and give up. I had a 97 Jeep Cherokee that ran for 132,000, so I'm a loyal customer.
It's hard to keep the speed down! Don't think I ever went over 3000 rpm, it's a different animal and I love it. I am running B-10
Was the problem the emergency brake shoes?
Was the problem sticking rear pads turning the rotors red or even white hot when you touched the rear tires "...and got about a 3rd degree burn."?
Was the emergency brake cable out of adjustment?
Was it a rear differential issue? Rear bearings?
Is it an additonal cooler or is it integrated with the standard radiatior?
I cannot find the cooler even though I optioned for the tow package.
Thanks in advance.
Daniel
My old Dodge Dakota had rear ABS and I can recall that the brakes, front or rear, never felt as warm/hot as these do nor did they seem to give that binding sensation like these do.
Can you get anti-seize compound where you live. I would not grind down that piece of metal. If you do, I think you will end up with brake pads that rattle.
I suggest taking the assembly apart, giving it a good cleaning, and apply a little anti-seize compound to any of the contact surfaces. Do not get it on the rotors or pads. It will help stop the corrosion you are seeing and allow the pads to move more easily.
-Downshift if you have time,
-Pump the brakes at least two times in short strokes and come to creep speed,
-Get into Neutral just before stopping,
-Pump once more to stop and let go the pedal.
When I stop in this sequence I need to put a lot of pressure on the brake pedal to hold the truck in Drive at 800 rpm. If I stop just keeping the foot on the pedal I get the 'binding sensation' when going again.
Check out WWW.Accusump.com. They have a very professional looking "after oiler" It holds a quart of oil and dispenses it to the turbo when you shut down.
Now let's see, where can I mount the thing...
EDIT: Sorry, i'm now running 1 quart low while driving...too good to be true.
While replacing my fan clutch, the mechanic managed to puncture the radiator so that had to be replaced as well. I don’t know whether it was just the new fan clutch or the combination of the fan clutch and new radiator, but I no longer have any problems with overheating. I took my Jeep back up north this past weekend to test it out. I averaged about 65 mph up those same mountain grades I had climbed before, with outside temperature in the upper 90’s, and the temp gauge never budged from the normal half way mark.
Based on all the comments on this forum, I was beginning to worry that I might be stuck dealing with this overheating problem indefinitely. I can’t tell you how thrilled I am to have this issue resolved. I hope this info can help others who are also dealing with this overheating problem.
My wife's 1998 Chrysler has ABS and does not exhibit this binding trait.
As to being in different worlds, how really different is it? I am a first generation person in the United States. My parents came from europe after WWII and I grew up in a very european household. So I do not think our worlds are so far apart.
lazyace 54
I also tried putting a dealer recommended additive into the cooling system. It did not seem to make a difference in my case.
Is the 5W-40 the only oil they have for the CRD?
A previa we had started to overheat the rotors and burn up pads. Several parts departments, several rotor replacements, the cause - brake hoses had failed inside and would not release and free the fluid to return and free the pads.
This forum or liberty problems forum discussed two Liberty issues. One was the hoses/cable/sensor on top of the differential taking out the dash instruments.
The second issue was a pinched front brake line on Liberties (abs only?). The hoses have plastic clips that hold this line to the plastic fender well. They are assembled one way by the supplier. Therefore if you look at the, I believe drivers side, you will see that the assembly line can not attach these clips to the fender well holes, and the line is hanging loose. The line can pinch in the springs.
Take the plastic clips off, turn them around, and reinstall on the lines.
Now you can plug the little plastic pins into the holes in the fender well (and keep the lines out of the springs).
This makes it a supplier problem and assembly line problem (keep the lines moving guys)and perhaps dealer make ready problem.
I told my dealer and a local dealer where I buy filters etc about this.
I learned these issues here at the Edmunds forums.
I am in Texas temp 95+ no overheating.