Jeep Liberty Diesel

anomious

Hi! The Mfg. date is on the door post. See post #1539.
Good luck!

dmv

Hey,

I just have a few questions:

1. Is 2005 the first year for the CRD?
2. What seems to big the biggest problem with the CRD so far?
3. What do we hear about CRD for 2006?

Thanks,
DMV

winter2

Please keep on posting. All input is valuable. We all fall on our faces every so often. Frankly, I thought what you placed was fine. I never took it seriously but with the world requiring so much political correctness, that is what I think tidster was trying to tell you. Be careful, thats all.

winter2

As I stated in one of my posts, all the manufacturers are guilty of trying to get the most bang for the buck. They are willing to play the odds and generally get away with it.

Unfortunately, the MBA types have too much power in companies. Everything is bottom line driven. I agree that if things were done properly for a few more dollars, then the bottom line would more than take care of itself.

As to the software that keeps our CRDs running, I do not know who wrote it or where it was written. Even Toyota Prius cars and some Nissans are crumping while under way and they are gasolene powered. They are being investigated by NHTSA.

The other thing I have heard is that the software in the CRD is Microsoft Windows based. I am not sure how true this is, but if it is, need I say more?

winter2

You are welcome. Hope it was helpful.

winter2

Do not look at the VIN. Look at the sticker on the driver's door (if you have such a sticker in Canada). On ours there is a large bar code and below that is a line starting with the letters MDH. That is what you want. On my CRD it reads 050209, which means May 2nd, ninth hour.

If you want to determine build info by the VIN, you will need to call DC.

mdamick

The company is Cenex. For some reason, my CRD doesn't like their fuel. I put additive in as well. The jeep runs just fine but the mileage is down almost 20%. I have run their standard diesel in my Cummins and have never noticed a problem. I have not had a chance to try the B2 in my truck.

drudgery

Thanks everyone for posting - site is very valuable in making a decision to buy one and keeping up with whats happening. I, and the wife, absolutely love it so far after 900 miles.
1st tank got 21.1 MPG (20% Highway, 80% city) AC been on constinuously since we bought it - Hot in Ohio.
2nd tank got 20.17 MPG almost 100% city driving. Being brand new seems pretty good based on what I have read for break in mileage? Mfg Date read 06/22 19th hour.

Here's a good one - The wife said that while trying to fuel it up last night the station attendant kept shutting the pump down from inside and once she went in to figure out what the problem was he said "what are you doing Jeep doesn't make a diesel SUV". She laughed at him and said I know I'm blonde but come on out and check under the hood and we'll see who's dumb.

willysjeep

I was in the UP of Michigan last week and got a wee bit confused by the fuel. The pumps had no. 1 and no. 2 and the price was 30 cents difference. Is number 1 the same as number 1 fuel oil and number 2 the same as number 2 fuel oil. I put the number 2 in before I noticed the difference and I thought the mileage was better.

I went to several gas stations and none of the cashiers knew the difference. They just smiled and said, "We just sell it."

They also had off road diesel fuel, but that is the stuff that's dyed red.

Should number 1 be used in cold weather to prevent gelling of the fuel?

stever

hehe, that's good about the attendant shutting the pump down. Thanks for the laugh!

Steve, Host

mdamick

I had that happen yesterday. When the owner looked at the green cap he realized I knew what I was doing. Had the cashier at the same station running out the door letting me know I was putting in diesel a few weeks ago.
At least you know some people are paying attention to what is happening at the pumps.

mdamick

You want to use #2 pretty much year around. In the northern states they blend #1 & #2 to prevent gelling in the winter. If it gets below -15F for any length of time you might consider using straight #1. I put anti-gel in year around for lubricity and weather surprises. Have never had a gelling problem.
Don't use the dyed fuel-it doesn't have the road taxes applied and if you get caught the gov't gets real upset.

drudgery

Yeah I agree - I would hate to have to drain the tank if there were a mistake and no one said anything. It worked out well because they both laughed about it and now he knows. I am sure it will happen again and again over the next few years.

winter2

Glad you are happy with your CRD. Watch the oil level. In the first 600 - 1200 miles, the CRD will use a quart of oil and then it stops. As the engine breaks in, fuel economy will improve. Mine has.

winter2

I have yet to try B anything in my CRD. Are you sure it was B2? I have read of good results with B5 in the CRD. I wonder if the biodiesel is cleaning everything up, thus causing a loss in economy. Try several tanks and see if things change.

mdamick

From what I have been able to find, B2 is the only version available in SD. I don't think that anything is particularly dirty, I only have 14000 mi on it.

gagrice

Are you sure it is not B20 in SD. My partner gets B20 at the Co-op near Brookings for less than regular diesel. He has run it in his F250 PSD since it was new and says it is great stuff.

mdamick

The pump said B2. This is the Cenex in Mitchell. They want .03 more than their regular diesel. If I ever get to Brookings I will look that one up.

anomious

Back in the 70's, before oil companies went to a winter blend, I had gelling. Back then we were cautioned not to use more than 30% #1 when mixing fuel. The #1 diesel lacks the lubricating properties of #2 and would destroy the injection pump. NEVER use 100% #1 diesel in your Libby.
My Libby runs great on B5, I tried B10 and didn't see much difference.

anomious

#1030...by winter2

You can blend your own. Add one gallon of B100 and then fill with regular diesel and this will give you a B5 blend. I usually do this and my CRD runs more smoothly and is quieter too.

#1601...by winter2

I have yet to try B anything in my CRD. Are you sure it was B2? I have read of good results with B5 in the CRD

caribou1

I get about 10% less mileage with ULS-B5, but the engine runs smoother.
I can't buy it anymore because price competition across the border didn't help selling more sophisticated fuel. I have to use the stuff that irritates eyes and lungs and I get better mileage.
About the Provent-200 oil separator:
If you lookup the VM brochures you will notice some of their engines come equipped with it. They are fixed behind the starter motor and they use an oil sump connection for the oil return in the same area. I've ordered one to try.

bullhead

Follow-up on the recent towing adventure...

It's hard to know where to start, because describing patterns in the overheating tendency are not easy to say much about. With the 18-foot, boxy, 2,500 pounds of trailer in tow; 85-90 F ambient temperatures, and long 6% grades to climb; some overheating occurred on the flats at 60 mph, yet, sometimes raises in temperature were very modest going 55 mph up long 2% grades. There were predominantly tail winds during travel, both going and coming back. Those certainly throw uncertainty into analyzing the overheating mix. One thing was clear: We couldn't sustain a 6% grade at more than 35-40 mph with the air conditioner off and sometimes with the heater turned on full-fan and windows open (thank God for our sunroof!). That (generally) kept the gauge at 3/4 or below. To maintain that speed up a long grade is not *unacceptable*, but there's so much unpredictability in when the gauge rises and falls that it is an unsafe condition. The premise that the gauge erroneously changes "exponentially" may have some legs. But, before accepting that as the full reason for the behavior, I will definitely proceed most cautiously. Me thinks both engine coolant and transmission temperature gauges that display actual degrees would be an excellent feature, given the problems. The most sustainable performance going up the steep was with overdrive locked out and with the shifter in 2nd, but sometimes it lugged up those hills in 'Drive' quite sustainably too. I'll bet the wind currents determined much of the temperature variations and need to downshift.

One other thing: I cannot be sure, but when the engine was under load with the temperature rising, I swear I could feel periodic brake drag ????? No more than 1 to 3 seconds 'bursts' of a discernible feeling of drag. Can anybody relate ?

vinnyv

At what mileage is the timing belt change recommended?

anomious

Hi! Pages 383 and 386, owners manual... Schedule "A" and "B", 100,ooo miles for timing belt and idler.
Good luck!

ameredith

I am thinking about buying a jeep liberty CRD to replace my 300M. Just want to know some "real mileage" figures. CR said a combined mileage of 18 :confuse:

stucolts

After two tanks of fuel 19 city 27 hwy

spete

Your dealer should have data relating to brake "drag" - DC replaced brake parts in my CRD and I have no more overheating - transmission shifts better - and better mileage. Go talk to your service manager.

hawk521

Driving to conserve fuel - 21 city, 28 highway.

Driving like you stole it - 19 city, 25 highway.

Seriously, you'll not find a 4X4 weight 4300 lbs that gets better mileage - period.

winter2

Sorry about that. I have tried B5 once or twice. Was half asleep when I wrote 1601. :confuse:

hawk521

As I understand it, DC has determined that the CRD gauge cluster was mis-programmed such that above ~210F the temperature gauge reads exponentially rather than linearly. Any time the actual engine temp rose ever so slightly above 210F (e.g., climing a long hill, pulling a trailer, etc.) it would cause the gauge to move exponentially higher than it was supposed to read - alarming many CRD owners!

When you think about it this actually makes sense - as I do not recall anybody ever reporting a temp gauge reading just slightly above the mid-range on the gauge. From all reports so far posted - either the gauge reads normal - or jumps way over to HOT!

So - I am hopeful that the DC engineers have nailed this one. My CRD has never shown any high temp readings but I think I'll let the dealer do this tsb update at the next oil change anyway.

caribou1

Since dragging brakes are not totally unknown to DC, could this be what's causing some people to change their disks at 15,000 miles? This is just a corellation to various posts on the "Problems" forum. Mine don't seem to wear that fast. They only lost 0.8mm thickness in 54,000 Km.

anomious

Ok! Lol...I get that way sometimes too! Thanks for the info about the B100 station.. LK

libertygirl

Does anyone know what the Type 43 light on the instrument panel means?? It isn't in my owner's manual. It comes on and goes off sometimes.

drt1crd

I thought the type 43 was just a label for the type of instrument panel / gauge cluster the vehicle had.

Mine has never went out. Just looks like a label. / designation to me.

If it is anything other than that please let us know.

carlstuckey

I thought the same thing once, then I noticed that its not a light but the sun shines on the Type 43 and it looks like a light.

patentguy

I agree, when the sun hits it just right, it appears that it is on.

winter2

I believe that this is just a label. In the owner's manual they show a picture with a different number. I have never seen it glow.

chugga

Just picked up my CRD after having the torque converter replaced due to the 50-70 mph shuddering problem . The first time I took it in they "reflashed " the computer . Neither approach has solved the problem . The service tech is guessing that it might be the EGR valve.He said he will e-mail STAR [some sort of factory tech helpline] for help . Has anyone else been able to remedy this problem ? I thought some other posters solved it with a reflash . Build date 6.6.05. I love my Libby and dont want to get rid of it . We get 500-550 miles per tank on a regular basis.

winter2

I am inclined to think it is a drive train issue. When you start it in the morning, let it idle for about thirty seconds before putting it into gear. See if that helps.

Some CRD owners have had the trannies rebuilt/replaced. EGR might. Are you getting black smoke or engine stuttering at anytime? Do you tow?

chugga

I do idle for at least 30 - 45 seconds before putting in gear.
No black smoke unless I hammer it after extended same rpm cruising . Even then just a small short puff.
No towing yet.
I'm glad my dealer is working with me on this.The tech has gone on test drives with me twice and really seems to be trying. He did admit to me he has very little knowledge of diesels but I want them to learn so I don't have to travel to some other dealer.

bigpapa

I have a question if someone could answer. I noticed that on my drivers side door; the power lock switch the rotation dial for the side mirrors do not illuminate. In the center where the four window switches are, the two that control the front illuminates but the two that control the back do not. Also on the passenger side door, the power lock switch does not illuminate as well. I could have sworn that all of them illuminated at one point. Am I right or wrong? Thanks

bardwell02

Very frustrating!

The dealer had it again today to address the whistling sound, the exhaust smell, and an oil drip that showed up after the oil change. On my work order, both the sound and smell were noted 'could not reproduce customer complaint' or something to that effect. My 'advisor' pulled a disappearing act when I showed up. Otherwise I would have shut him in the thing with the windows up and fan on!

Those of you who have been without your trucks for days/weeks have my sympathy, I can't imagine how frustrating this could get. At least I live in a market where I can go somewhere else, although now I have to ask them to fix someone elses mistake. I knew I'd be a guinea pig buying this thing, but I expected to be treated better. My last truck was a Toyota, their dealers are worse but it doesn't matter - I was never there!

anomious

Hi! My transmission selector window lights and my front window switches light. Nothing else off the dash lights. I have a Sport model.
Good luck! LK

willysjeep

Thanks for the information on diesel fuel. I did a little digging on the internet and found these in case anyone is interested:

Crude Oil = 5,800,000 BTUs/barrel

Diesel Fuel (petroleum based) = 138,700 BTUs/gallon

Kerosene = 135,000 BTUs/gallon

Jet Fuel = 130,000 BTUs/gallon

Biodiesel (B20)= 128,000 BTUs/gallon

Gasoline = 125,000 BTUs/gallon

Aviation Fuel (Avgas) = 125,000 BTUs/gallon

I also found that #1 fuel oil was 134,000 BTUs / gallon and #2 fuel oil is 139,000 BTUs / gallon. So it does look like #2 is a bit better than #1. I suppose they rounded the 138,700 to 139,000 BTUs / gallon.

Looks like biodiesel is worse than either one unless you get it really cheap or brew the stuff yourself from a McDonalds dumpster.

mdamick

My similar problem was air in the fuel lines. Also had similar problem fixed by TSB.
Build date 2-05.

jsymski

Bardwell02 - I'm 99% sure I know what your exhaust leak odor is! I had mine in the shop 6 times for this problem (after "that is not a problem", "we can't reproduce") and it was recently identified by the DC Northeast Regional Rep. Have them check where the exhaust pipe meets up towards the engine. There is a connection there that is wrapped in some type of an asbestos circular boot (not really sure what it is made of, but it is the only wrap like that on the whole exhaust). This was not fitted correctly on mine. The Rep removed and reattached properly and the problem went away. My symptoms were the same as yours, turn on the fan and the passenger compartment would fill up with exhaust fumes (when the CRD was stopped). How we found it, we put a tennis ball in the end of the exhaust for a few seconds and could hear the leak down below where the turbo was.From there it was easy to see the soot from where it was leaking. If you need more info, let me know.

winter2

The lock switches, mirror control and the back window controls do not light up. Mine never did. Would be nice if the lock switches did.

winter2

This is interesting. For about three weeks, I have been getting the smell of diesel after I shutdown a warm engine. I can smell it from the front and the sides. The odor never gets inside. Last weekend, I pulled off the engine cover and checked every connection to make sure they were dry, and they were. The other new thing that is starting to happen is that after the first start of the day, and in the first minute or two of driving, it feels like I am getting a miss or two, or even a stumble. Once this time period passes everything is fine. It is almost like a gasolene engine with a carburetor when it is warming up. I have an appointment this AM and before I start the engine, I am going to pump the system to see if there is any air in the system.

caribou1

jsymski,
Here is a picture of your engine. Was the leak before the EGR or after?

bullhead

Can anyone recommend an aftermarket actual-temperature gauge cluster kit w/ sensors (2- engine coolant & trans. oil) that fits well into the Liberty? I definitely want the sensors in direct, mechanical contact with either fluids or their metal conduits. Thanks much!