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You could easily smell it any time when then engine was running, just above the turbo when the hood was open. When the tail pipe was clogged w/the ball, you could also hear it distinctly leaking, down below the turbo. We had another CRD right next to mine w/o the problem. No odor and no leaking noise either when stuffed with ball. So it was a no brainer... Kind of embarrassed the dealership since they kept saying on the work orders "can't reproduce" "normal operation".
If Allpar put their picture back on the web again, you will see the EGR is on the left hand side picture near the flywheel at 10:00 o'clock when looking at the flywheel. It's a nice picture to understand how it's put together.
Best of luck! LK
Regarding Biodiesel: take care to keep the mixture below 5% or you may run into stability issues if the fuel see's quick temperature delta's. Best is to run a high centane pure diesel blend.
Good luck
http://rb-k.bosch.de/en/start/product_ds_11_agr.html
I once found a link to the Bosch Common Rail system where all the equipment fitted on the VM engine was displayed in cutaway views. I downloaded the VM brochure, but it's no longer published. I may not be allowed to display it since I'm not the author. It was called 'R 428 DOHC' in pdf format.
Here is the Bosch choke flap:
http://rb-k.bosch.de/en/start/product_ds_09_reglkl.html
Here is the link to a Siemens made EGR:
http://www.siemensvdo.com/default.aspx?menu=PT_EGR
Concerning the biodiesel, B5 blend is distributed in many filling stations without people knowing about it. What is hard to get for me is the ULS-B5.
Every morning I travel on a highway where I have to stop to go through customs. I just floor the pedal until I reach 60 mph and check for smoke. None so far. This may sound silly, but it's the proper way to clean it out. Just like one's nose.
More seriously, the EGR housing that holds the valve + seat + stem guide are water cooled on your engine. You may have to open your cooling circuit to clean it. For shure whoever makes the engine controller doesn't need to provide the casting to put in the valve... I don't even know what mine looks like. My warranty runs until sept 16th :shades:
As for opening the cooling system, no thanks. The new antifreeze they put in is nasty stuff and I will let the mechanic handle that. It is a hybrid organic acid type, and orange in color.
I intend to buy a shop manual for the engine in the near future. I would like to be able to do things like change the serpentine belt, fuel filter change, etc. myself. Most of that looks easy, but I would rather have a manual handy so I do not ruin something or re-invent the wheel.
Thank you
I have towed it behind an Excursion, Silverado 4x4 1500, and my CRD.
The CRD is a close second behind the Excursion and gets 16mpg to the X's 11mpg and the Chevy's 7mpg.
Other facts I have found:
Bosch produces the commen rail system (rail, injectors, high pressure pump,ECU and Glow system) for the Liberty.
Siemens produces the diesel fuel injection system for the Ford heavy duty pickup (rail, injectors, high pressure pump)
Lastly: Overheating issue seems to stem from brakes becoming applied unintentionally and unprovoked by driver intervention via vacuum conditon during hot temp conditions. Additional parasitic drag creates loading on engine which leads to the over heat. Please provide feedback if you have felt dragging prior to the overheating.
The shop manual on CD that I've seen at the dealership gives you all parts numbers, but it's your professional expertise that does the rest. Access to a lift in a covered area is more important than the manual in my case.
The engine I have has less equipment on it:
I have no choke flap,
I don't have the same EGR system, mine has no liquid chiller (made by Pierburg?),
I have no electrical fan.
European diesels also have EGR problems, I would say one out of ten. Are they burning domestic heating oil? I guess not. City driving with manual shifters at low engine speeds seems to cause the smoke. Older diesels didn't have this problem.
My engine never consumed any oil, even when it was brand new. I would have suspected the choke flap to suck oil from the admission valve stems due to the vacuum it creates when the engine stops (???)
I towed a 2000lbs trailer ,no problem with the overdrive on,but only on the straight aways,then when I hit the hills ,disengage the OD.
Besides if you want to maximize your fuel economy,you'll find it will work better for you at that speed.
I also found filling up with a premium fuel helped with performance.
Hope this helps...
Peace..
Lightnin3
I also tow my caravan in temperatures of between 31 and 35 degrees Celsius and I have never had problems with overheating. I must say, I was very surprised when I read about this problem in the US. We have been driving CRD's since 2002 and overheating has never been a problem
I am considering the use of Amsoil's 15W-40. The pour point and flow characteristics are very close to the 5W-40. The TBN and detergency in the 15W-40 is far greater than in the 5W-40.
I never push an engine until it is fully warmed up. That is a great way to blow a turbocharger or throw a rod.
As to third gear, there is no way I can hold it there. The gear selector does not have stop for third. The pattern is 1 - 2 - D - N - R - P. There is the OD lock out button on the side of the shifter.
In normal highway driving I stay between 1850 - 2000 RPM, while around town 2000 - 2200 RPM.
As to a professional expertise, I will go only so far. As to having access to a lift and cover that is another story. I have ramps that will support about 2300 kg so I can work with those if I need to. For cover, I can set up a large picnic tent if need be.
When I have the OD/ON, which is the default condition, above 40 mph I get into 4th gear until I reach 55 mph. Then only it will shift into 5th.
I think you have to write down what speed you're at for a fixed rpm value by selecting gears manually.
At first I thought there were 6 gears in this automatic, and in fact there are two 2nd gears:
- one for normal driving
- one for the kickdown
This is enough to confuse many people
:sick:
After I have driven my CRD for a while and then shut it down, I have the odor of diesel coming from the sides and front of the hood for several minutes. I have looked at every single fuel connection and fuel line and not a single one leaks or even has any haze on it. I checked the rail and injectors and they are tight too.
This morning I went under the CRD to look at the exhaust system and EGR valve. The exhaust pipe from the turbo was tight and the was no visible soot or evidence of leakage. I was able to get my hand up there and nothing appeared on my fingers. I checked the rest of the exhaust system and found it to be in good order. The section of flexible pipe was fine too.
I looked at the EGR valve and found it to be clean and all connections that I could physically evaluate were tight.
I have less than 2600 miles on my CRD which I have had since May 5th. Any suggestions or ideas welcome.
article by Peter Bohr at www.pe.com
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Has anyone had trouble with higher levels of biodiesel? I've seen a lot on the EGR valve problems. Is this actually an EGR problem? Has the B99 "cleaned" out the engine and possible fouled the EGR?
As soon as I can run some of this tank out, I'll put some Dino diesel back in to reduce the BioD percentage.
LK
As to the place under the bumper, I will eventually put mine there and put some screening in front of it for protection. I do not tow, but better safe than sorry.
Trade the CRD out again?
Curiously, the tech at #2 (who was very friendly and actually spent some time with me poking around), told me that the EGR looked like it had not been replaced by #1 - maybe they just cleaned it?
I have not seen biodiesel for sale where I live. I was curious to try it. I spoke with a diesel generator engineer about biodiesel. He has a Ford diesel truck and told me that it says expressly in his truck manual not to use the stuff. He said you can have a lot of moisture problems and diesels do not like water being fed to them.
Could water in the fuel be a likely culprit of Nick's problem?
Biodiesel really does sound like a good idea. I understand that it can be made from waste such as restaurant grease. However, fuel made from kitchen scraps really does make me wonder about the quality.
PROVENT INSTALL
How I got my info was a suggestion from the dealer,to not exceed 50mph while towing.
I am from Canada ,here we have either regular Diesel fuel or .
It seems that most companies offer a cleaner more refined version of it.
From what I understand this is what the Europeans use ,and what the Libby was designed to use.I have heard stories about dirty fuel.Although I believe Shell's fuel is one of the cleaner versions.Where do you guys get your fuel??.
Peace
Lightnin3
On the common rail element, above the engine, my connection to the second cylinder was not as tight as the others. You have to be careful with these high pressure tube fittings because you can squash them if you tighten them too hard. I would recommend using a 17mm split ring spanner to do that. If you use a standard flat spanner you can destroy the compression nut because you have to access at an angle close to 60 degrees.
The manual does cite towing as a situation where OD can be locked out, but as needed.
In my little town, our Texaco (now Chevron, Inc.) got replaced by a Shell station years ago. Chevron & Texaco are often cited by gas engine mechanics as having the most uniform, clean-burning gasolines. So I lamented that change. However, as a result, at 5k+ miles our CRD has had little in it but Shell Brand diesel fuel. Some (dare I say it- manageable) overheating is the only problem we've had. But, soon following when I filled, JUST ONCE, at the el Cheapo- but major brand- station did we die at the side of the road. Fortunately, a few pumps on the fuel/water separator primer and we were off again at 100%.
This brings me to the subject of home brew biodiesel. Boy, was I initially very excited about getting into that! Now, I wouldn't let it get within 4m of the filler cap, unless I was stranded out of fuel. Using it in your Liberty is in bad judgment, in my opinion.
This is not directed at you, lightnin3, but for everyone:
In fairness to all posting in this forum who are trying to resolve systemic, actual weaknesses with their Liberty CRD, posters using; or that have used; home brew, need to make that clear to all. Otherwise, certain issues- and their hopeful resolutions- will become obfuscated for the rest. I know there are plenty of home brew biodiesel forums to participate in, where that practice is implied. I didn't check to see if the assertion is already a ground rule of this forum, so I apologize if it is.