Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • allnighterallnighter Member Posts: 3
    Can you provide the link on where to get a Provent kit? Also, does the install violate any warranty provisions?
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Thank you. I asked my dealer about this smell and they said it was normal. When I get back from my trip, I will look into making sure all of those connections are tight!
  • bigpapabigpapa Member Posts: 30
    Here is the link to the Provent kit: PROVENT KIT

    Also I plan to take mine out whenever I go to the dealer. Even though it's a preventative maintenance, the dealer might not think so. I don't feel like taking my jeep in every 20,000 to get my EGR valve replace or clean out my intake at 70,000.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    bigpapa,
    What do you do with the oil that will eventually be trapped? Are you really shure the oil will collect into the hose with the ball valve?
    I've read there were two types of installations:
    - return goes above the sump
    - return goes into the sump
    How do you select the type of return you want to use? Do you use the additional check valve? The little vessel is under vacuum. :D
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I did blow the EGR valve's nose today. I accelerated from a dead stop as you suggested with O/D off. The first two times I did it, I actually had a fair amount of black smoke. By the third and fourth time, there was no smoke. I will do this at least weekly.

    As for the smell, it is not that bad, but it is noticeable. After I return from my trip, I will get a 17mm split ring wrench (spanner) and check the tightness of the fittings. Do I check the tightness of the fittings on a hot or cold engine?

    Thank you
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Diesels generate CO, but much less than a gasolene engine does. Any internal combustion engine that runs on carbon based fuels will generate CO.
  • towwmetowwme Member Posts: 52
    Build date is 060419 if I read it correctly. Liberty Sport "C" package, trailer tow and Trac-Loc. Trying a US built vehicle for the first time in 10 years, just traded off my Montero Sport, not a good tow vehicle. :cry: I am expecting problems.
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    I am as interested as you are in this conversation .
    I had come across some information,that I thought would benefit all here.
    In all fairness I have been lucky with my Libby.Tested and true.
    I hope you find what you are looking for....
    Peace ..
    Lightnin3

    _____________________
    Drive at night ,when no one is looking ,try driving under 55mph
    ...and watch you mileage get better no one will know ,except you ...
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I'm glad you noticed the difference. Concerning the open ring wrench, take off the engine top cover before you buy one. If the wrench is too bulky you won't be able to reach the bottom of the fitting where the tread is. Hot or cold engine doesn't make much difference in this case. You will hear a light 'click sound' as soon as it will be snugged.
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    Hey.... Me too !

    I sent my 1990 Montero Sport to an early demise at 241k miles by starting to tow with some frequency. I actually thought it handled trailers pretty well, but the 3.0L V6 is (was) a passenger car engine. Lost the main bearings in rapid fashion after doing lots of engine braking and running at higher RPMs. Now have same Liberty "C" package as you. The brakes clatter and squeal a bit when cold, there's some (presumably) resolvable engine overheating tendencies. But, I've already determined the assembly workmanship excellent and parts to be generally very good. When towing a pickup-box frame utility trailer, it's very cool now to have a car convertible into a capable truck ! Wife thinks the Liberty a bit more civil and that it's cool too.
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    Yes, I guess you're right. Not everyone has to be analytical and methodical (and thorough). I take this as a problem-solving venue, but it's not up to one person to dictate that. Peace too.

    Emmanuel... 'God with us'
  • kyjeeperkyjeeper Member Posts: 31
    build date 3/05, took to dealer a coupe of weeks ago had reflash done TBS-018 this seem to help but still not right. I am thinking of taking back but was waiting on some kind of fix. :cry: If you ask me it's about a 30,000 dollar piece of junk! I also noticed that I have a transmission cooler on this jeep its about 3/4 thick first one pass the electric fan.
  • ecramanecraman Member Posts: 25
    The dealer was in contact with DC and the problem is described as a broken water pipe. The service writer did not know what that was but the technician is the one that is trained. They narrowed the problem down by measuring a series of pressure drops. I get the Liberty back on Monday.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Drove from Maryland to Florida over the past two days. Great fuel economy, averaging about 26 mpg at 75 mph (with A/C running better than 50% of the time). Smooth, quiet engine.

    I am using some oil though, about one-half quart of the 0W-40 over 900+ miles. Have a bit over 3200 miles on the engine. I guess this will be the norm until the rings really seat them selves by 8K - 10K miles.

    Will not have computer access until 09/05. On vacation. :)
  • towwmetowwme Member Posts: 52
    I pulled the same 4400# camper with my Sport. 50MPH at 3600 RPM without the air on. It couldn't hold 50 if the air was on, so much for the 5000# tow rating. Mine was trashed at 84K. There were times I didn't think I was going to make it over some hills in southern Ohio.
    People talking about oils; I have been an automotive engineer for engine and chassis components for about 16 years. I have a contact at Mobil Oil Co. who is an Lubrication Specialist and I ask the question about the oil 0W-40 vs. 5W-40. The answer was not to much of a surprise, the 0W has better low temp flowability and it can help produce better fuel economy. I would think that is why it is specified by DC.
    Product testing; To be a QS-9000 certified supplier as a Tier 1 supplier, there are many requirements that have to be documented for PAPP. Both the design and the production components have to meet specifications and have to be tested at both levels by the supplier. The manufacturer also tests the parts in systems and full vehicles, for every condition in the real world, even towing at or above rated capacity. I once saw a Ford GT (as in GT40) with a class III hitch in it for tow test. The manufactures know the strengths and weakness of a vehicle before it makes it to the final customer, risk analysis determines what is addressed and what is not. Most trouble shooting is done by the component or system suppliers, I have worked with a few engineers at manufacturers that didn't even know how the part worked let alone, figure out why is isn't working correctly, they are more program managers. I have also worked with some engineers ( at manufactures) that knew the parts and there function very well.
  • anomiousanomious Member Posts: 170
    One of those big black and yellow bees was drilling a hole in a roof truss in my garage. Sawdust was all over my hood. I figured that it would blow off when I went down the road. When I started Libby, the heater blower sucked it all in, blowing it in my face and all over the interior of the Jeep. Just imagine going off road in a dusty area, ;) Hey! Schultz,,,where's the filter???
    LK
  • jkievit240jkievit240 Member Posts: 6
    Absolutely agree with your numbers. I just bought a Liberty CRD in
    Boulder, CO and drove it to San Diego. 1100 mi, got 28.6 mpg (!) overall w/
    cruise set at 80 most of the time and the A/C on about a third of the time. Sure
    beats 16 mpg best from my old F-150 4x4.
  • fredl1fredl1 Member Posts: 12
    The CRD engine generates maximum torque between 1800 and 2600 rpm. It is therefore clear that when you tow you should keep your rpms within that range. At 3600 rpm the engine has no pulling power. In addition, you will destroy the diesel engine if you drive it above 3000 rpm except for very short periods.
    I would say the camper that you towed are slightly too heavy for this vehicle but it should still not be a battle to keep momentum as long as you take the power band of the engine into account.
  • towwmetowwme Member Posts: 52
    I guess I wasn't thinking, Montero Sport - Liberty Sport, so saying Sport was not the correct thing to do...My Montero Sport I had to run the engine at 3600 RPM to tow my trailer. The Montero Sport also was rated at 5000# towing capacity but it should have had a "Not recommended for towing label". The Liberty CRD Sport pulls at 1800 RPM maintaining 60mph in overdrive. My camper weights 3100# empty and it grosses 4400# fully loaded, 50 sq-ft frontal surface area and is 8' high and 21 ft from ball to rear bumper, well within DC max. tow specifications. I never have had the CRD's RPM over 2800 and in normal driving I don't go over 2100. Last tank was 25.8 MPG.
  • spetespete Member Posts: 73
    Thanks for the reply - I had read the owner's manual - but also read in this forum somewhere "never tow in O.D" - so was kind of mixed up. I concur with you that the CRD does a great job of "lugging" - it goes up and down hills with hardly a waiver in the tach or speed. Since getting my brake poblem taken care of, this is the most fun to drive vehicle I have ever owned. Had the dealer install the GPS radio a few weeks ago to satisfy my "gadget cravings" - wife thinks I'm crazy - but I will never get lost returning from the coffee shop!
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Instead of saying overdrive, would it not be easier to understand 4th and/or 5th gear?
    Many years ago an overdrive was an additional gear box that could be installed just after the standard one, reducing the length of the driveshaft. The brits often had these on their sports cars. You had in fact all the standard gears (3 or 4) plus the in-betweens when turning this device on.
    The behaviour of the CRD engine opens a breach for a gearbox with a new pattern:
    P,R,N,5,4,3,(safety-latch) 2,1 and remove the OD button. This would be neat for towing and city driving.
  • patentguypatentguy Member Posts: 45
    Who has the Sirius radio installed and is there any way to install the antenna without drilling a 3" hole in the roof? It just does not seem right to drill a 3" hole in a perfectly good roof!

    Are there any special connections from the Sirius receiver to the RB1 radio?

    I was thinking about getting this added to my CRD.
  • sailormonsailormon Member Posts: 48
    Thanks for clearing this up. As I mentioned we had ordered a new one just to haul a similar load and your first message had me thinking. But I told Con that you more than likely did not have a liberty sport and used 3600 rpm. But thanks for the towing info, it boosted our positive feelings about the order. this is the other sailormon who when I can figure how will change my name to avoid confusion. BR
  • towwmetowwme Member Posts: 52
    You have a point years ago, the late 70's & early 80's there were several overdrives in the aftermarket that were placed in the driveline after the transmission and some after the transfer case that were deciated overdrives and I think a few were available as an underdrives also, (when Detroit decided to put 2.41:1 gear ratio's in truck), Warren and Advanced Adapters come to mined, but I maybe wrong. The "Big Three" uh "Big Four" then, placed the overdrive in the transmission as an 4th gear, none-the-less it's still an overdrive. With all of the multi-speed transmissions out there, 6-speeds, CVT's, 5-speeds... Overdrive is overdrive no matter if it's a secondary box or not. I believe the Land Rovers like the 88's, 90's, and 110's had underdrives in the transfer case and used large pinion gears (low ratio 2:1 as opposed to 4:1) for the added driveline strength making up the transfer case gearing correct for the engine's power band. I'm not sure if I would call the 545RE a 5-speed or a 4-speed? Five gear ratio's but you can't select each gear manually. :cry: So is is a 5-speed? ;)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    other sailormon

    I only see one of you here and in the logs ....

    Steve, Host
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    If you drive at a steady speed of 50 mph the converter locks into 4th gear. The same happens at 60 mph into 5th gear. 55 mph is when the tranny keeps shifting back and forth. Usually the overdrive is used for fuel economy and does not allow fast acceleration like the 5th gear does on this tranny. I find it perfect for normal driving conditions and going offroad, but not powerful enough to pull a heavy trailor safely. I think it's geared to go too fast for towing with this type of engine.
    I had a diesel Land Rover 109 many years ago but I never drove it at 60 mph. It was just too close to it's limit and scary...
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    To clarify the discussion about who makes the EGR valve, here is a link that explains the position of Bosch with Pierburg:
    http://www.rheinmetall.com/index.php?lang=3&fid=1572
  • sailormonsailormon Member Posts: 48
    Steve, You seem to be right, I went back over the logs and was surpised that my query illicited so many responses which I have been reading with interest. I am not used to having this much interest shown, what a great group. Due to this I thought there must be another sailormon. BR
  • crdeviantcrdeviant Member Posts: 6
    Where is the fact you cite to support the statement "will destroy the diesel engine if you drive it above 3000 rpm except for very short periods" I am not educated power engineer but I feel this is bunk. What part of the combustion process is going to "destroy the motor" if it runs over 3000 rpm for extended periods. If this were true mine would be toast already. I ran my motor for 7 hours at 3100 rpm and have no issues at all.

    This is not meant to be a personal attack I would like to know what I may have done wrong and if I picked the wrong motor. I do however understand that the flame front during the combustion stroke on a diesel motor is most efficient at 2500 rpm in this engine size. To exceed 2500 rpm causes the motor to use more fuel and become less efficient. If you are indicating that the EGT's are higher than 1200deg F at 3000 rpm during an extended run I intend to install a full range pyrometer to prove that untrue also.

    Please just enlighten me
    Thanks
    ssmv650
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    You are correct.
    ... a 30,000 dollar piece of junk.
    Could've had a disposable (put cheap vehicle brand here) and money in the bank.
    Buy a cheap something, the most easily affordable, and like the current wally world mentality in a country thinking it's first world, if it breaks put it on the curb for trash pick up and buy another something. And if chinese is cheaper than korean then buy it, just like our big multi nationals.

    Missing plastic rivets on fender flare at delivery. Bought repair rivets and a friendly service writer at a collision repair shop put them on. No Jeep body shop.

    From Jeep problems forum, found that I too had the loose ABS line on left front wheel.

    2k miles and rear brakes grinding noise from hell. Dealer knew and fixed.

    Then leaking rear pinion seal. Later Bridgestone dealer said Jeep seals leak.

    7.5K mles. New Bridgestones after crap goodyears darn near killed me.

    4WD linkage, never right, broke. Fixed by dealer and now smoooth.

    Fuel additives, fuel additives, fuel additives. Hose clamps, nuts, assembly issues.

    Embarrassment. Backing down a hill. No trans/oil filter skidplate and none from DC available. Bought gasser plate and have yet to modify it to make it fit CRD.

    Lost members experiencing the same 2" by 4" crack in the aluminum front differential and now DC won't honor warranty - Camp Jeep. Aluminium front axle

    Egr, transmission,rear ends etc(don't look at problems forum or outside edmunds).

    Provent Provent Provent. Why Why Why? Or why didn't DC

    Last Friday in stop and go traffic ~ 100 F, experienced the rapid rise in temperature from less than half way to three quarters on the gauge. Turned off the a/c turned the temp dial to full heat and full fan speed but believe it dropped because traffic started to move. Started to do it again today and again same response-off a/c, temp to heat, and full fan speed. Should've tried putting the trans in neutral and thus increase the idle speed back to 790 rpm(it sometimes falls to 740rpm with the brake and a/c on and in gear )(winter2 -had red line in the tank since a poster's egr failed using power service year round diesel supplement)

    I have also always done like caribou1, put the trans in neutral at stop lights etc since the torque(and speed at idle seems excessive)

    Bought February, 10.5k miles now. Entirely too much time wasted on a new vehicle. It is nice when it works and you think it is invincible but feel used and abused by DC corporate greed and incompetence.
  • fredl1fredl1 Member Posts: 12
    Turbo Diesels are commonplace in my neck of the woods and we have been using them for many years. Over the years its has become clear - and this problem is well documented - that the turbo-charger itself and the engine is easily damaged when the vehicle is driven for extended periods at high revolutions.

    The fact that your vehicle managed to withstand 7 hours of high revolutions does not mean that it was not damaged. Experience have taught us that the damage is incremental and one day your vehicle will fail with large amounts of white smoke before it comes to a standstill. While ordinary diesel engines are very reliable, turbo diesels are not as reliable as petrol engines. When using your CRD you should be aware of this and adjust your driving habits accordingly.

    Diesel engines are happiest when driven on or close to the revs that produce the highest torque. At higher revs, torque drops off and while power increases so does the temperature generated. The result is high fuel consumption and high engine temperatures. This is why above 3000 rpms most diesel engines will consume about as much fuel as a similar petrol vehicle. At 75 mph the petrol engine is happiest, revving high and burning its fuel efficiently, while a diesel is at high-stress, running hot and burning fuel inefficiently.

    If you want to drive at this speed, rather buy the petrol (gas) Liberty. It will last longer and you will have less sleepless nights.

    The following article explains why: Pop Goes the Turbo
    I
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    What you call " DC corporate greed and incompetence " I think is a commercial strategy. The last Jeep brochure I got in my mailbox shows only part of the air grille of the new GC on the front page. The brochure is 1/4" thick, made with beautiful thick glossy paper and there is no information in there. Pure waste.
    Could you imagine politicians sending their flyers showing their nostrils instead of their picture?
    I'm getting off at the next stop.
  • sailormonsailormon Member Posts: 48
    I mentioned that I am moving to the Lib from a power stroke ford 250 which has over 100k. I have followed the above rules including idling after fast driving as well as keeping it in the power curve. Others have told me to not use overdrive when hauling as well, but that results in unacceptable rpm's, and anyhow when it locks in all is well. I would not make the move except having such a big truck for local driving in the winter is a pain due to traffic in fl. and all those old folks on the road. Oh, I forgot I may be one of them. I feel if you drive it like I have the ford it should do well. Hopefully I won't experience the problems others are seeing. That is why I opted for an 06 to get past some of them. It would seem with overseas experience the problems would not be there. Cheers. BR
  • allnighterallnighter Member Posts: 3
    I've been intrigued by the CRD and by going diesel (have a turbo diesel pusher RV), but after doing research on it, I decided to stay with the gasser since 90% of the planned usage on this vehicle will be around town - short trips, that would probably tear-up the small diesel engine quickly. Maybe in a couple of years after the issues get straighened out?
  • crdeviantcrdeviant Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for your opinion. I however will drive this much like my last power stroke diesel that I ran religously at 3000rpm and it only lasted 212k miles. Not sure if that was as long as a "good" gas motor.

    CRDeviant
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    "I think is a commercial strategy" That is management incompetence.
    I believe as another poster stated, gladly pay more for quality. I didn't pay invoice let alone dip into holdback.

    What made everyone in the past line up, pay a premium over sticker, and wait for hondas.

    Somewhere I read a post that beancounters (and Daimler?)destroyed good mature Jeep engineers and their plans for quality. Some good engineers supposedly left and some compromises where made to keep the rest. This is lurking "hearsay?".
    Or did someone confuse the exodus of the last experienced volvo engineers?

    I'm about to find the next stop myself if DC doesn't step up to the plate, then I take a second big hickey. This weekend while in Houston, Demontrand was advertising CRD's, at I believe invoice, with a notation that several were available.
    If you want a 2006 CRD made exactly the same way as the 2005's but possibly with less warranty then don't offer a dealer thousands less than his cost on these 2005's and not see what happens next.

    We did buy DC extended 7/100 warranty with first day rental but it is an 80 mile round trip to get those mechanics.

    People should be lining up for these CRD's and owners should not be driving back and forth from dealers and watching pathetic idiot lights.

    I may try the stop at Tucson or Santa Fe and test the water(sand?) or try the bowtie again with a proper push rod engine(even though it's chinese).
    I have no use for 3.7 or 4.7, or 4.6 or 5.4.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Thank you for your posts and link.
    I believe Cummins states first rebuild at 350k miles.
    In one of my earlier posts I mentioned that gassers can go 150K-200K so why can't we expect 500k from our diesel. One thing I learned from your post/link was the - don't blip an unloaded diesel. I'm glad I didn't try to rev the crd during a heat experience to get the water flowing through the radiator and heater. The rest - oil changes and air cleaner have been done earlier than needed as well as trying to find an additive that has post combustion benefits. I may be trying those that warn of overdose next or the new Valvoline/Cummins synthetic fuel treatment even though Cummins doesn't have an egr.

    Caribou1 saw but stated he is bound by secrecy not to disclose the blown diesel he saw.
    He also stated about blowing up a turbo? trying to follow a VW turbo? at high speed for a lenghty time on the autobahn?.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    OK, my warranty period is almost over...
    The blown engine was a 2.8L CRD model 2005 automatic that signed a maximum speed of 145 KM/H on the OBD recorder, for about one hour according to it's owner.
    One of the two oil hoses outside the engine (bottom front right hand side) came undone because of poor quality crimping near the oil pump (hose onto fitting with aluminium sleeve). The oil pressure dropped immediately and killed the engine but not the occupants. That's the only good point. The bad point is that the material used for these hoses is on the edge of the razor concerning thermal stability of the material. In other words, the one I've seen was crap compared to what I usually buy from industry. Since that day I saw the blown hose I reduced my speed to 70 mph.
    The turbo diesel I blew was on a Peugeot 605, a VIP sedan at the time, and I was chasing after a miserable 90HP Passat :lemon:
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    quote -and I was chasing after a miserable 90HP Passat -end

    It is not the HP, it is the Torque that is important!
  • vtdogvtdog Member Posts: 163
    Sorry to jump in this discussion regarding "30k piece of junk"

    First of all, I did not pay anywhere near 30k, if you did, shame on you.
    As the CRD being a piece of junk: I have been back to my dealer only once, for a free oil change. I now have about 9,500 mi on the truck and regularly get about 24.5mpg as opposed to my xterra which got 17.
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Member Posts: 107
    Fred#1, Thanks for the link to the article telling how you have to "baby" the turbocharger.

    I'd never owned a diesel engine before. From their reputation, I thought they were rugged long lasting slow turning beasts of burden. This forum is indicating that my perception may have been wrong. I've not had to be fussy about fuel with any gas engine I owned. I've not had to be concerned about revving up the engines. I did have a turbo in a 2.2 liter charger, but it gave me no trouble for over 100,000 miles and I never had to sit and idle for 30 seconds to give it cooldown.

    Despite the bad luck I've read about regarding the Jeep CRD which I've read about on this forum, I still feel good about the Jeep just about every time I take it for a drive.

    I see that to get the life I want from the engine, I will have to cruise at not much faster than 65 mph to keep the RPMs in the optimal range around 2,000 RPMs. This is OK since I am one of those rare individuals the slows everyone else up by driving at or below the speed limit.

    I will set my timer to turn on the block heater an hour before I leave the house to avoid giving the engine thermal stress in the Winter. I will change my oil at a frequency higher then the manufacturer's recommended intervals and use the premium oil given in the manual.

    I sure hope I continue to have better luck than "Tired Old Dave." I did read about Jeep engineers leaving when Daimler Chrysler took over. The article also bashed the Liberty's suspension. Perhaps the Germans were too arrogant to see another way to do things that was as good or better than their way.

    They've been selling these things longer in Europe. Has anyone seen any statistics to indicate if the CRD Jeeps are having any common mode engine problems at higher miles? We should be able to learn from any statistics given for the European models.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I have to disagree. The torque curve on the CRD is best at 2000 rpm. At 80 it is turning 2300 rpm. The fuel consumption and torque curves are basically flat in this range. A properly built and maintained diesel will run far longer than a gas engine-Look at the miles put on by the big rigs-most all diesel.
    I have a Cummins with over 207000 and I have put it on long drives towing a 4000 lb trailer and not. RPM's run in the 2300 range at ~75 mph and the engine can run over 8 hours without shutting down. No turbo problems and one injection pump failure(covered by warranty) in that time. I do cool the turbo, I think it helps. Change the oil every 4000 mi using Walmart 15W-40 pretty much all the time. This is the key for the longevity of any engine.
    I bought both diesels because of the better mileage (my CRD is consistently getting 25-26 and my Cummins gets 17-18.) and longevity. My Durango with the same size gas engine and a lot less weight would get 14-16 and it was starting to use oil after 140000.
    I put on over 400 mi/week and with a couple of problems solved by the dealer I think that the CRD will last me a long time.
    With gas going up .30 & diesel .20 just today, I am looking forward to a truck that can get really good mileage for its size.
    The post about "blowing out" the EGR valve solved the one persistent problem which was a fade off idle when cold-Thank you to the poster.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    It is not the HP, it is the Torque that is important!
    We were driving well over 100 mph on that highway, like most of the traffic. There were no speed limits at the time on certain parts of the german highways, and you had to make room for the big german cars that went much, much faster. Some of them can handle 150 mph without coughing, and I prefer not to mention the speed you can drive with the italian sports cars. Even today in Germany, it's safer to stick to the right lane and keep an eye on the mirror. :cry:
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    Wow ! thanks for the post ! .
    I have been using synthetic oil for a couple of years now,and I believe it prolonged the life of my Gr.Cherrokee. Still runs like a top .

    We are lucky .Just in time for the high fuel prices.

    I believe our investment will pay off in the long run.

    You'll be glad to know that DC is coming out with a V6 CRD 3.0 Litre version for the new Jeep Cammander.
  • eastjeepeastjeep Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know of a company that is making a performance chip for the CRD yet?
  • smilie1smilie1 Member Posts: 21
    Anyone aware of an optional oil cooler,or an add-on unit that would fit on a CRD?This would be a good time for some of those silent developement engineers to come out of hiding and comment.The stock cooler is probably why my torque converter and others were damaged without ever getting an alarm or code.It will fry the clutch band slowly at temperatures below the alarm point usually while towing a load well within the stated limits.When crawling up a long incline of 6 or 7 percent in the summer,you may be in 2nd or 3rd gear and only 25 or 30 mph.At that point the small area of the cooler isn't getting much fan help and certainly not much help from the high ambient temp air coming off the roadway.An old fashioned Hayden or other model would make a difference,but sticking it in front of the other heat sources may not be the best thing to do.Any comments?
  • hawk521hawk521 Member Posts: 19
    vtdog - I couldn't agree with you more. Having owned my fair share of vehicles over the past 42 odd years I will say that my Jeep Liberty CRD is a breath of fresh air when compared to the 'consumbable' cars from so many sources. While my CRD did list a tad above $30k, I too didn't pay that much. In fact, I got a better deal on this car than I did my last new vehicle - a Volvo.

    Every manufacturer since Fred Flinstone carved out a wheel from stone has had less than perfect vehicles go out the door. Both from a design and manufacturing quality perspective. But so far my experience with the local Chrysler-Jeep dealer has proven to be quite satisfactory. I've had one instance for them to fix a problem- and it was done very professionally. I'd certainly not hesitate to buy another car from them - perhaps even another CRD for the wife. Now if they'll actually build that Chrysler 300C w/CRD and 35 mpg, I might even get one of those.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    We may soon see these on the roads because of oil depletion. Have you not seen pictures of Albany a few years ago? There is no guarantee our grand children will not look like Wilma and family :sick:
  • anomiousanomious Member Posts: 170
    Hi! See EBay item #7997180337. +70 hp/130 ft/lbs.
    Good luck! LK
  • nick_jnick_j Member Posts: 2
    So it looks like the computer for the CRD is sensitive to the amount of biodiesel. I drove out 1/2 of the B99, and put in regular dino diesel, and it smoothed right out. It's still just a touch rough and a bit louder when it's cold. So right now I'm running about B50. On B20, it's smooth, the only perceptible difference from dino diesel is that it's a bit quieter.

    BTW, I'm running commercial "from the pump" biodiesel. By far, most of the biodiesel made and used is commercial biodiesel made from soybeans (look at biodiesel.org for more detail). The restaraunt grease biod, when done right, can be a wonderful fuel. There are many folks who are doing it themselves. By far, though, the bulk of the biod used in the country is commercial. The blends vary from B2 (2% biodiesel, 98% #2 diesel) to B99 (99.9% biodiesel, 0.1% #2 diesel).
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