To measure the MPG correctly, fill the tank full (untill the pump lever click). Lever should be set at either on low or medium. Reset the travel gauge to zero. Use up the gas to half the tank or more and refill the tank untill it click as before. Take the mileage on the travel gauge devide by the # of gallons you just added to the truck.
If your getting poor gas mileage you might as well have your foot to the floor, so enjoy. I've heard the oxygenated fuels will decrease mileage. Perhaps that is the case in your area. Maybe a switch in brands might do it. I notice when mine is cold it will hold 3rd gear at around 40mph until it warms up and this may effect mileage somewhat, but most of my driving is around town (80 city/20 hwy) so don't expect great mileage yet (930 miles). I'm assuming you are on 5w-30 oil. You probably won't like this suggestion, but let your wife or dad or trusted friend drive it for a tankful and see if there is any difference. Does the bed have a cover, I've heard this might make a difference too. Maybe try a tank with tailgate down/removed. I say this because I notice even at low speeds there is a lot of wind in the bed (leaves blow out real quick). I'm only expecting about 14-15 around town.
Sure you can drop the tailgate - it'll make the gas mileage worse though.
Before you all accuse me of being a Tindra hater for saying that, its the truth. Check out the original gas mileage topic a couple of month's back, I posted a website that has the exact figures - the only way to significantly increase mpg by doing anything to the bed is to put a hard tonneau cover on (about a 12% reduction in drag).
Actually there was an improvement over baseline with the tailgate down, but worse with it removed.
Wonder what the effects would be of a small wing on top of a full cap? Apparently, the increased drag was a result of the sharp drop off at the rear of the cap. A small wing or spoiler may reduce that. Wonder if the truck racers have found that site with new cap design. I've heard Smokey Yunick is planning a return to racing with Tundra in the Craftsman series.
Just in case you are looking for a cap for your Tundra and most manufacturers are selling T-100s this is what I found for diminsions of the 2: Tundra SR5 Access SB (Toyota website): 76.5" l X 61.2" w; T-100 SR5 SB (MS CarPoint) 76.1" l X 61.4" w. Don't really know how much difference that is when you try to fit one. The length difference is a little less than a 1/2 inch which is where any problem may occur. Sure wish SnugTop would make their Top Gun model for it!
Would be interested to hear some experiences from people who bought their tundra either over the web or from an out of state dealer. How did the delivery process occur and was it to your satisfaction? Any suggested dealers?
The Top Gun would look great on the Tundra. Good luck getting SMUG-TOP to make one for the Tundra. If it's not one of the big three they don't want to mess with it. I called them and asked them about the Top Gun for the Tundra and the guy laughed. Maybe we could get an e-mail campaign going.
I have a 4x4 LTD with over 4000 miles on it. Just did an oil change. Using Toyota's oil filter and Mobil One 5x30w. Been tracking the mileage and I am happy with it. Getting 15 to 16 mpg but my commute 120 miles round trip is mostly LA's vast freeways. Use to own a 4x4 SR5 T-100 but I love this Tundra. Anyone notice that the front end could use a little lift to even it out with the back ? Anyone find a hood shield yet ? Let me know. Thanks and if the Tundra joined the Craftsman series that would be awesome !!
I towed my boat about 15 miles the other day. The boat's about 4800 lbs. with 470 lbs. of tongue weight. The Tundra had plenty of power and was stable, although a little softer than my T100 with the Bilsteins. I also got a vibration at 40-50 mph, however I believe from other posts that this is from the toe in the front end alignment being incorrect. Thus when the rear of the truck goes down slightly, the toe changes resulting in the vibration. I plan on visiting my dealer for a warranty paid front end alignment.
So far at 700 miles, my mileage with the Limited 4x4 is horrible. 13.3 first tank. 13.8 second tank. 11.6 third tank, although it includes the short hop trips and the 15 miles or so of towing the boat on a level road. All mixed city and highway driving. I'm still sticking to the 55 mph break in. I suspect mileage will increase after I go faster than 55 mph. I think the engine is operating too low in the powerband at 55 mph in Overdrive.
I ordered my Tundra LTD access,4x4, abs,TRD, 6cd, ABS, cold weather, cloth bench from www.autoweb.com and was very impressed with the transaction. They set me up with the dealer I wanted. A different dealer close to home and thru a different internet buying service gave me a quote that made me look around some more. I ordered from the dealer's future allotment with the options I wanted by phone and e-mail. The dealer was 75 miles away so the order was completed and signed with $500 deposit and signatures faxed. I went to the dealer last saturday to pick up the vehicle..that was the only visit there. info? write shark-bait@att.net
the salesman i purchesed my 2000 tacoma trd from let me take a tundra out for a ride the other day and boy did i have fun!the truck really goes good(limited to 105 mph so i found out)but other than that i was totally impressed!i would definetely be driving one of these if i was in the market for a bigger truck.
My vibrations seem to come from the rear. So far the attempts to correct it have been 1. balance tires 2. replace wobbly left rear wheel 3. align front end 4. replace cupping rear tires 5. order new rear shocks. What gives? Anybody got any comments or fixes? The tires are Bridgestones, the wheels are stock. It's an Extended cab V8, basic truck. I suspect the tires are crappy. What else could be wrong?
at what speeds are you getting a vibration at?? most likely you have a balance problem or a bad tire.also just because the tire is balanced doesn't mean it is right.tires can be out of round and still be balanced but you will always feel it.the tire can be rotated on the wheel to obtain it's best runout before balancing it.also don't let anyone tell you the alignment is making it shake because that just isn't true!..trust me,ive been a tech for 12 years now.oh and i'm sure you probably don't need new shocks either.sounds like there trying to throw parts at it to fix your problem.i feel strongly that your problem is with the tires or balancing.
Thanks for the response. I believe the problem is from tires or balancing also. How do I convince the dealer of that. What is their motivation? Do they just not have the technical expertise to fix it? How can it be economical for them to have me keep coming back over & over? Can they be convinced to install better tires? I am going to be forced to take it somewhere else when it should be fixed under warranty.
We have the SR5 access cab 2wd. The day after we got it we experienced a strong vibration at about 45-55. The dealer called Toyota tech. and did an adjustment on the rihgt rear emergency brake. Now all is well. Incredible vehicle.
Was there ever any consensus on the towing vibration problem. I get a vibration in mine in the steering wheel, only when towing, from about 40-50 mph. Tried lowering tire pressures to manufacturers recommendations (26 front, 29 rear) and it made it worse. I suspect the steering wheel vibration may be coming from bad front end alignment - toe setting changing when ride height on rear and thus on front of truck changes. I have about 470 lbs. of tongue weight. Anybody else have any experience with this?
Haven't run real tests yet, but mileage is improving. First couple of tanks where in 11-12 range with less than a thousand on odometer. Getting around 14-15 in last tank. Took a 230 mile trip this weekend and used about 1/2 a tank. Will see how highway miles work up when I fill up.
Has anyone tried putting a T-100 cap on a Tundra. I pick up my new Tundra on Friday from Red Holman in Westfield, MI $26,700 on a $29,000 sticker, best I could find in Michigan. SR5 4X4 Access. Anyway a friend told me he would sell me his T-100 cap cheap and I wonder if anyones tried the fit?
According to specifications I could find on bed sizes there is about a 1/2 inch difference in length and less than 1/4 inch difference in width. Probably depends on what type cap it is as to whether it fits right or not. Let us know what you think if you get it. I tend to suspect that cap manufacturers aren't going to remold for that small a difference until they develop a new model so you probably would get a T-100 cap if you bought new. LOL
Having looked around and talked to a number of topper dealers, I understand the T100 cap does "fit" but that it doesn't follow the Tundra's contours very well. Many of the manufacturer's have already started making Tundra Caps (Lund, Leer, etc.) that match the truck's lines. They should be coming out with more style options in the next 6-12 months (at least that's what I've been told by numerous brand dealers. All of the ones I've come across are cab high models. I'm waiting for a topper with a higher rear opening for ease of loading and unloading. Good luck on finding the right topper.
I started a topic, "2000 tundra: vibration/shaking". I won't say much, expect that it look very similar, if not the same problem as mentioned by GM owners.
Briefly: my tundra starts to shake at freeway speeds, for no apparent reason. Although it seem sot be happening less and less. It's something I'll keep an eye on, hoping it's just a break-in issue.
I checked some sites last night. Jason makes a wedge design for the T-100 and from the pictures looks ok. Leer says they won't make the XL-160 anytime soon. ARE shows a high roof model on their website. Saw a picture of a Glasstite that has a unique swing-up door that creates more vertical space, but they are all special order. I want to see one up close and personal before I plunk that much money down. I really wish SnugTop would make their Top Gun model. I think it would really look good on a Tundra (style over function).
Over here in Oregon we call them Canopies, but caps, toppers, whatever, the T100 tops aren't made to fit the Tundra, so they don't fit it quite right. Snug makes three models for us: the XV, Cab Hi, and now the Hi Rise... expect to pay around $1500, they are made in cali, and look very clean. Aside from snugs, look at Raven (from Glasstite), Innovation, Century and Leer for Tundra molded tops (yes, mostly cab hi, but some hi-rise.) Last week I ordered a Raven Cab-hi to match my Green 4X4, and I'm confident that I got the best for the $. (only $995.) fyi, Raider and ARE don't have a Tundra mold yet, they are using the T100 shape. If you need more canopy info, i can probably give you plenty. Like the truck, I researched before I bought the best.
I purchased a carryboy for my green 4x4. I'd never heard of the brand before. Apparently they are the largest worldwide manufacturer of fiberglass tops. The fit, finish and hardware was superior to all the other canopies I've looked at. I wanted frameless windows and rear glass. The problem with all the frameless rear doors is that the rubber seals are stuck on with double-back adhesive. When it gets real hot they peel up. The carryboy had a channel that held the seal just like a car. Their web site is www.carryboy.com. I'll tell you how it fits and looks when it gets here (supposedly 2 weeks)
Did you see the Tacoma crew cab on the S60 model site (Carryboy)? rwellbaum2, where did you get yours? Which model did you get, the 602 looks pretty good.
I came across the Carryboy web-site while surfing. I liked their models as well, but they don't have a dealer out here in Colorado. I like their looks especially the curved rear glass, but it's hard to really get a good representation of the look on the web site.
It's kind of sad to see the rest of the world getting all those (real) four door truck models, but with Nissan, Dodge and Ford coming out with their versions, hopefully Toyota will bring in a competitive model.
rwellbaum2 - Please do keep us posted on how your Carryboy fits, looks (possibly pictures on one of the Tundra web-sites?)and how well it appears to be made, the warranty and how much you paid (if you don't mind), etc. etc.
doughoward - sounds like you've done your homework! In your research, did you find a model for the Tundra with a sweep up rear that had minimal angles and smooth lines? So far all I've seen for the Toys have been cab high models or high top models with more angles and windows than I care to consider.
Also, any idea on how long the manufacturers usually take to bring new model lines to market? I've seen a few cab high models on sale and like some of them, but I'm hoping to get a high top model like the Ranch Lariat or the Jason Extreme Wedge. It may be that they only offer a limited selection for the Tundra (based on the 100K production run this first year) and I'll have to settle for a cab high model anyway. I plan to wait 6 months before buying a topper/ canopie, but I don't want to wait too long if I'll never have the option I want. Any good brands I may have missed??
And thanks for the info gentlemen and enjoy your Tundras!
I too noticed the Jason Extreme Wedge. Think it will look good and gives me the function I'm looking for. Don't know anything about their quality. One note: My wife said she saw a Leer cap on a Tundra last night and it did not match the roof line of the cab. It was slightly lower which means that it could have been a T-100 cap on the Tundra. Something to consider besides length/width is the cab height if you want it to match perfectly.
If anybody is interested I went through the maintenance charts in the owners manual and made a spreadsheet so it would fit on one page. Maintenance items on the left column, mileage across the top. I record date and actual miles in the corresponding box. I'm still working on it (gotta' spring for Vol I manuals soon) but if anyone would like a copy e-mail me and I'll attach it back. MS Excel workbook format.
it's hard to find a nice looking hi-rise model, but Snugtop's Hi-rise has the best looks and clean lines, and they're in production now for the tundra. thing is-- they cost around $1500... all the other "hi-rise" canopies have kinks (bad lines) or just don't look that good with such a huge back window... so like I said before, i opted for looks and function, including price. Raven makes a hi-rise but it's got that kink i hate, so i went with the very clean cab hi. i plan to put my yakima rack on it, so i think i can carry enough toys. want more canopy info? check out www.allamericancanopies.com that's where i bought mine. good luck, and happy truckin.
Well that's what i call it. it's the area of the canopy mold where the first raised angle (behind the cab) meets the back flat area on the sides. snug is the only one to taper this area and make it look clean, all the others do the "kink", and i don't like it. if you don't mind it, raven's magnum is a great hi-rise for the tundra.
Doughoward- I agree with you on the "kinks" some of the manufacturers put in their canopies, they look awful and somewhat cheaply made in my opinion. I've go the snugtop brochure for toyota's, but it doesn't show the hi-rise and I didn't see it on the web-site you mentioned. I'll have to go back to my local dealer and take a look. I do like the Leer 160XL - somewhat higher in the back, clean lines and big windows for better visibility.
While I hate to spend $1500, I've spent many an hour lugging gear (boat motors, batteries, fuel, etc.) out of the back of my dad's Dodge with the high rear window, and I appreciate the extra head room and manueverability it gives you. I'd highly recommend the extra room if you think you'll need it. The one issue will be overall height. The Tundra now fits nicely in my garage and I won't leave it outside because a canopy makes it too tall. It gets too cold here during the winter months!
rwellbaum2- did your super-f come with the all the extras (carpeted liner, 12V interior light, auto style closure mechanism) and will it be color matched? Don't forget to let us know what you think after you get it installed.
The interior light, carpeted(they call it fossliner)liner, autostyle closure with stainless steal hinges and automotive type keys, front and rear pop-out windows, 58 bulb LED brake light and quickclamp mounting system are all standard on the super-F. The only option I got (for $15 extra was the inside lock). Yes, it's painted to match (jade mica). I saw the super-F's cousin the M-500 on a Tundra. It looked really awesome. The main difference is the M-500 has a spoiler on the back, an automotive type vinyl headliner, and sliding side windows. Both models have steel reinforcements in high stress areas of the shell. I'm still trying to figure out how to mount my hang glider rack to the canopy and I'm running out of time. I'm thinking of permanently installing 4 steel "pads" on top of the canopy to which the rack can quickly be bolted on and off.
rwellbaum2 - Thanks for the update. It does sound like a "super" canopy (pardon the pun)! Just as a thought, we mounted a rack on top of our Coleman pop-up camper using steel brackets, with bases of about 1" or 1-1/2" x 6", and a backing plate of the same size on the inside with good quality stainless steel hardware. We also used lots of silicone in and around the bolt holes to ensure it didn't leak. It's been 5 or 6 years now with out a hint of leakage. We carry a 160 lb boat on top of the camper and it has held up great. I believe the best thing is to make sure you spread the load with good sized base plates (inside and out) and strong brackets which help to eliminate flexing. Some of the cheap factory setups I've seen seem to allow a lot of flex and usually ended up cracking the fiberglass. Good luck with however you end up mounting it.
Thanks for the info. I was thinking of silicone or a gasket material for leak prevention. I'd been planning to use big washers on the inside but maybe a large plate would be better. The mounts will be on top in the corners. A welded aluminum rack for easy on/off mounting.
Does anybody know if there is a limited slip differential or an air locker available for the Tundra? Also, what are the Toyota sport floor mats like (are they rubber or carpeted)? Thanks in advance.
I am getting about 10-11 mpg with Amoco Silver 89 octane. Can someone please tell me if I am doing anything wrong. I have to get better mileage. I do not drive it hard. I have about 400 miles on my truck. If anyone can help, please email me at njlamber@uiuc.edu
There is no factory limited slip. The only air locker maker I know of is ARB. You'd probably have to call to see if available. My impression is they are expensive.
My mileage started picking up after the first 1000 miles. Its now around 15 MPG combined hwy/city. Try not to have long warmups or idle periods. Also, 87 octane is recommended.
I never got less than 14 with my 4x4, think maybe you need to have it checked. With over 7000 miles now I average 15-16 around town and 16.5-17.5 on the road.
Has anybody purchased a set of chains for their Tundra yet? I'm 2wd so looking for an emergency set just in case it snows a little this year. I'm wondering if the Z-type chain is better (and worth the cost) over the traditional ladder type chain. I'm a little concerned about mucking up the factory aluminum rims, but really only see using the chains a couple of times over the life of the truck and then for only very short (couple of miles) distances. Any advice?
I don't have exact experience with a Tundra cap, but in my youth I had a Leer aluminum cap on a F150 ('76 model). I had it bolted on instead of clamps. I went through the same terrain I would take my tanks (tracked) and never had a problem with the shell. For fire roads you should be fine.
For njlamber. You might do a quick check of he odometer using some hiway measured miles. You just may not be reading the mileage you're traveling. Over sized wheels will drop the odo count. I would do this before I went to the dealer with the question. From my T100 4x4 experience 10-11 mpg sounds too low to ignore without a few checks. I suspect it should be at around 15 mpg or higher.
Got 1200+ miles, getting 15.8 average, 4x4 LTD, ABS, some of that driving in some nasty snowstorms in 4x4, and doing 2,000ft elevation changes both ways every day.
Does anyone have an opinion on using slick50 or the likes. I've had my Tundra for one week now and decided this truck is different, and one I want to keep for a long time. The ride and handling is so smooth the only way I know I'm in a truck is if I have to hall something or go off road.
There are several conferences on this subject in the Pickup and Maintenance topics. My 2 cents is don't do additives. Use a quality conventional oil or synthetic and quality filter on a regular basis and your engine should be fine. My personal choice is Mobil 1 5w-30 and Bosch filter (semi-synthetic media - 4.99 at Autozone) and I plan to follow the 7500 mile schedule in the book.
Comments
Use up the gas to half the tank or more and refill the tank untill it click as before.
Take the mileage on the travel gauge devide by the # of gallons you just added to the truck.
Also, use overdrive will get better gas mileage.
Before you all accuse me of being a Tindra hater for saying that, its the truth. Check out the original gas mileage topic a couple of month's back, I posted a website that has the exact figures - the only way to significantly increase mpg by doing anything to the bed is to put a hard tonneau cover on (about a 12% reduction in drag).
Actually there was an improvement over baseline with the tailgate down, but worse with it removed.
Wonder what the effects would be of a small wing on top of a full cap? Apparently, the increased drag was a result of the sharp drop off at the rear of the cap. A small wing or spoiler may reduce that. Wonder if the truck racers have found that site with new cap design. I've heard Smokey Yunick is planning a return to racing with Tundra in the Craftsman series.
What was the trailer weight?
did an oil change. Using Toyota's oil filter and
Mobil One 5x30w. Been tracking the mileage and I
am happy with it. Getting 15 to 16 mpg but my
commute 120 miles round trip is mostly LA's vast
freeways. Use to own a 4x4 SR5 T-100 but I love
this Tundra.
Anyone notice that the front end could use a little lift to even it out with the back ?
Anyone find a hood shield yet ? Let me know.
Thanks and if the Tundra joined the Craftsman series that would be awesome !!
So far at 700 miles, my mileage with the Limited 4x4 is horrible. 13.3 first tank. 13.8 second tank. 11.6 third tank, although it includes the short hop trips and the 15 miles or so of towing the boat on a level road. All mixed city and highway driving. I'm still sticking to the 55 mph break in. I suspect mileage will increase after I go faster than 55 mph. I think the engine is operating too low in the powerband at 55 mph in Overdrive.
most likely you have a balance problem or a bad tire.also just because the tire is balanced doesn't mean it is right.tires can be out of round and still be balanced but you will always feel it.the tire can be rotated on the wheel to obtain it's best runout before balancing it.also don't let anyone tell you the alignment is making it shake because that just isn't true!..trust me,ive been a tech for 12 years now.oh and i'm sure you probably don't need new shocks either.sounds like there trying to throw parts at it to fix your problem.i feel strongly that your problem is with the tires or balancing.
problems.
Good luck on finding the right topper.
Briefly: my tundra starts to shake at freeway speeds, for no apparent reason. Although it seem sot be happening less and less. It's something I'll keep an eye on, hoping it's just a break-in issue.
Ed Proulx (ed.proulx@usa.alcatel.com)
Snug makes three models for us: the XV, Cab Hi, and now the Hi Rise... expect to pay around $1500, they are made in cali, and look very clean.
Aside from snugs, look at Raven (from Glasstite), Innovation, Century and Leer for Tundra molded tops (yes, mostly cab hi, but some hi-rise.) Last week I ordered a Raven Cab-hi to match my Green 4X4, and I'm confident that I got the best for the $. (only $995.) fyi, Raider and ARE don't have a Tundra mold yet, they are using the T100 shape.
If you need more canopy info, i can probably give you plenty. Like the truck, I researched before I bought the best.
It's kind of sad to see the rest of the world getting all those (real) four door truck models, but with Nissan, Dodge and Ford coming out with their versions, hopefully Toyota will bring in a competitive model.
rwellbaum2 - Please do keep us posted on how your Carryboy fits, looks (possibly pictures on one of the Tundra web-sites?)and how well it appears to be made, the warranty and how much you paid (if you don't mind), etc. etc.
doughoward - sounds like you've done your homework! In your research, did you find a model for the Tundra with a sweep up rear that had minimal angles and smooth lines? So far all I've seen for the Toys have been cab high models or high top models with more angles and windows than I care to consider.
Also, any idea on how long the manufacturers usually take to bring new model lines to market? I've seen a few cab high models on sale and like some of them, but I'm hoping to get a high top model like the Ranch Lariat or the Jason Extreme Wedge. It may be that they only offer a limited selection for the Tundra (based on the 100K production run this first year) and I'll have to settle for a cab high model anyway.
I plan to wait 6 months before buying a topper/ canopie, but I don't want to wait too long if I'll never have the option I want.
Any good brands I may have missed??
And thanks for the info gentlemen and enjoy your Tundras!
but Snugtop's Hi-rise has the best looks and clean lines, and they're in production now for the tundra. thing is-- they cost around $1500...
all the other "hi-rise" canopies have kinks (bad lines) or just don't look that good with such a huge back window... so like I said before, i opted for looks and function, including price. Raven makes a hi-rise but it's got that kink i hate, so i went with the very clean cab hi. i plan to put my yakima rack on it, so i think i can carry enough toys. want more canopy info?
check out www.allamericancanopies.com
that's where i bought mine.
good luck, and happy truckin.
While I hate to spend $1500, I've spent many an hour lugging gear (boat motors, batteries, fuel, etc.) out of the back of my dad's Dodge with the high rear window, and I appreciate the extra head room and manueverability it gives you. I'd highly recommend the extra room if you think you'll need it. The one issue will be overall height. The Tundra now fits nicely in my garage and I won't leave it outside because a canopy makes it too tall. It gets too cold here during the winter months!
rwellbaum2- did your super-f come with the all the extras (carpeted liner, 12V interior light, auto style closure mechanism) and will it be color matched? Don't forget to let us know what you think after you get it installed.
Just as a thought, we mounted a rack on top of our Coleman pop-up camper using steel brackets, with bases of about 1" or 1-1/2" x 6", and a backing plate of the same size on the inside with good quality stainless steel hardware. We also used lots of silicone in and around the bolt holes to ensure it didn't leak. It's been 5 or 6 years now with out a hint of leakage. We carry a 160 lb boat on top of the camper and it has held up great. I believe the best thing is to make sure you spread the load with good sized base plates (inside and out) and strong brackets which help to eliminate flexing. Some of the cheap factory setups I've seen seem to allow a lot of flex and usually ended up cracking the fiberglass. Good luck with however you end up mounting it.
My mileage started picking up after the first 1000 miles. Its now around 15 MPG combined hwy/city. Try not to have long warmups or idle periods. Also, 87 octane is recommended.
Over sized wheels will drop the odo count. I would do this before I went to the dealer with the question. From my T100 4x4 experience 10-11 mpg sounds too low to ignore without a few checks. I suspect it should be at around 15 mpg or higher.