Is that filter labelled for the Tundra, or is it the same filter that a different Toyota uses on the same engine? Would you happen to have the part# ? Thanks
Just installed a Draw-Tite hitch on miy Tundra Limited. The frame rails have nuts welded on two of the three existing holes on each frame rail. The hole closest to the rear bumper must have a bolt, plate, washer, and nut assembly. MAKE SURE YOUR HITCH COMES WITH THE EXACT BOLTS FOR THE FACTORY WELDED NUTS. They are metric, 12mm with a machine thread of 1.25, and are difficult to find. You will need four of these + lock washers, plus the other described hardware. A trailer light harness is about $100 from Toyota, and about $60 aftermarket, and simply plugs in to the existing connector to created a 4 wire pigtail. Hope this helps someone! My truck runs great. Just added color matched Ventshades and Putco stainless bed rails. All you Tundra folks have a good Christmas. lmurf
Lots of interesting opinions regarding oil change frequency...one thing I have noted however,there has been no discussion regarding the technique of oil analysis to determine the proper time for a change. As a Automotive Engineer and operations supervisor for a firm operating numerous vehicles of different descriptions and use, we found out some rather interesting things when we sent oil to the laboratory for analysis. First and foremost, most oils failed not for thermal or physical breakdown, fuel or water contamination as the TV and magazine ads will lead you to believe. Most oils needed to be changed simply because they had absorbed as much solid particle contamination as the detergent level could handle. The filter by its very nature can only filter out the "larger" particles, if the filter was designed to get the 1-5 micron stuff, it would take way too much pressure to force the oil through the filter medium. These smaller particles are held in suspension by the oil (the so-called detergents) until it is drained out. However, and this is the big thing, if the oil change frequency is too long the oil reaches "saturation point" and these small particles begin to precipitate out and form "sludge" deposits on the internal parts. (Some of you old timers will recall the horrible gummy mess that older engines exhibited prior to the introduction of detergent oils!) Our experience with oil analysis showed that there was no magical "time or mileage" to change oil. There were simply too many factors that affected that time. With a large fleet of similar equipment and usage it is worth the expense to check a few typical units and build a oil change program on those results. It is simply not worth it however for the average car or truck owner. Now that I have said all that, let's cut to meat of the subject...Oil is the cheapest and I repeat, CHEAPEST, thing you can do to extend the life of your car or truck engine. Rather than spend the 12 to 15 dollars required to do oil analysis, simply change the oil every 3000 miles or so and drain away all that bad stuff. Actually, we found by cutting open filters and checking their contents, that we could easily get by with a filter change every other oil change. Modern engines simply do not generate much in the way of large solid particles as a normal course of events. The filter is there to catch stuff that can do real damage to the bearings but not the micro fine stuff in suspension in the oil. The choice of filter change is a personal one but I can only tell you...change oil frequently and live long and prosper!! One other item, we found that the advantage of the synthetics was primarily in resisting thermal breakdown found only in turbocharged or very high performance engines. Those very expensive oils do a great job along that line but will not hold any more contamination in suspension that a good grade of conventional oil. Unless you have a specific requirement for such an oil, save your money and change oil frequently.
Yes, I also am experiencing the same thing. I have been on other sites, and a few owners have noticed this. It drives me nuts. The question- is this inherent, or is it a problem?
The only "vibration" I get is the hum of that great i-force engine. Every vehicle I've ever owned has had some vibration at idle. Comparitively, the Tundra NVH suppression is far above anything else I've tried/ridden in except for maybe a Lexus 400.
Thanks for the info. There are many filters on the market now that will filter the small stuff (ex. AC Duragurad Gold). The one factor that synthetic offers over conventional that is important to me is the lack of waxes in the chemical makeup. Since I intend to keep my Tundra for a long time I want to keep the internals as clean as possible. Conventional oils still form sludge over time even changed at 3k intervals. Each new truck is a different experiment. Last one was 3k conventional changes (after 107k I didn't like what I had), this one is 7.5k (factory recommended) with synthetic. I'll let you know in about 10 years which one I liked better! p.s. Could you also post this on the oil topic in Maintenance - good discussion.
I agree with your comments about oil. I have read several articles that back up what you stated about synthetic oils. It is the dirt in the oil - not the oil wearing out that requires you to change. Synthetics get just as dirty as regular oils. I saw a kit at K-Mart (think it was $10-$12) that allows you to send a used oil sample in and have it analyzed. They send you a detailed breakdown of the condition of the oil & what was in the oil and also some early warning if your engine has major problems. The only time I could see using this would be if I was trying to decide if I should trade my truck in (after 100k miles) or drive it for another year.
Have any facts/studies been done on normal cars/trucks? What happens to oil when a car is not used regularly on weekends or is only used on weekends? What effect does moisture and acids play on oil life? At what point does the oil/filter combination lose the ability to protect the engine? Is it 3k or is it closer to the factory recommended changes approaching 6k or 7.5k (some are even longer)? Posts on other topics have said that oil life, measured by contaminate suspension, is around 5k. I'm not sure this is definitive and is certainly effected by driving conditions. If suspended contaminates are the real evil causing oil changes then logically air quality conditions would effect this - then why is stop/go city driving touted as a major reason for oil change - seems to me it would be harder on transmissions (hince ATF) than engine oil, but I don't see or hear about 3k ATF changes. I use to change air filters with oil changes, but factory schedules are showing 15k or a year between changes. My understanding of combustion engines would lead one to say that a dirty/inefficient air filter allows more dirt into the engine than anything else (the only other avenue is internal wear of components). There is suppose to be less wear with synthetics so therefore there should be less contaminates in the oil with synthetic. Should air filters be changed more often? I ask these questions because of my experience with the Army's oil analysis program. The two major reasons for the program were to get an early identification of engine failure either through component wear or dirty air filters. You did not want an analysis returned indicating dirty air filters (trust me). Component wear ID allowed better logistics planning, service schedules and ultimately better readiness. What I am trying to think through on this post is a 3k oil change with conventional oil better than 7.5k oil change with synthetic oil. If I believe the 3k oil change story then logically I should look at more frequent changes for other fluids that also get contaminated. If I believe the factory recommended schedules, but just want to use IMHO a better quality lubricant then I should also get a satisfactory service life. I'm not sure there is an absolute answer to this question, but I love my Tundra and want to keep it that way.
I bought a new 2000 Tundra quadcab in July '99. and after I bought it, I thought it was the best vehicle I had ever owned. (54 of them, cars, pick- ups, and big trucks). My wife and I both enjoy driving it more than we do our Lincoln. - but!!From the first time we drove it, shortly after you got up any speed, there was this noise in the left rear door that sounded as if you had run over something in the road and it flew up and hit the door. We would automaticly watch in the rear view mirrow to see what we had run over. - nothing. This has gone on about every time we use the truck, and after it happens each time the 'door open' light comes on on the dash. Then a while later you will hear a very loud click, and it is both front doors unlocking, and a light comes on under the left dash, and the door light on the right side. some times the dome lights even come on, until I turned the switch off over-head. We have had it at the local Toyoto dealer four times. One time they kept it four days and over the thanksgiving week end. Said they put in some sort of motor and switch in left door. No better off. Another time they kept it three days, and adjusted the doors, which they did for several times. Now you can hardly close the doors to make the inside lights go out. Sometime you have to go around the truck slamming the doors several times before the inside lights go out. We don't dare use the remote to lock the doors. One time after they had 'fixed it', we parked infront of a restaurant and the horn started blowing and the lights blinking. Seems as tho it takes for ever to get it stopped. Once at Church it did this. Has anyone else had this problem? I plan to take it back to the selling dealer after the holidays. About ten percent of the miles I have on this truck has been taking it back and forth to the dealer. This is my first Toyoto, and when I bought it I thought I was getting away from this sort of workmanship.
I noticed an idle irregularity if you will. I investigated further and foud out something very interesting. When you select defrost or heat/defrost the airconditioning compresser automatically cycles to dehumidify the air. When the compresser engages at idle the engine sounds a little different. Not really a vibration but just enough difference in sound to notice the change.
I also noticed this in the first week I had it.The truck shudders at idle. It only idles at ~ 500rpm. I asked the service and they said it was a computer and they could'nt adjust it. I thought it might have something with the driving I do and that computer would adjust my style as was alluded to somewhere in the literature I have read on the tundra. No change at 3500 miles. I am going to mention it again at my next service visit.
OK, SecuriKey Alarm is neat, but mine malfunctioned on the first day I had the truck. When you arm it the headlights come on for 20 seconds and then are supposed to shut off. Mine wouldn't shut off!!!! I had to unarm and then turn the lights on and then back off and not use the alarm. Got it fixed and my toyota mechanic said that was common and also the rear hitch connection box going out was common. Other than that he said that the vibration issue was very rare now. Good news to me. On a side note, I actually have a smile on my face when I get to work on Monday's!!!! Love this truck!!!
My Tundra has a very loose captain chair armrest on the passenger side. This armrest has been used very minimum. This truck is a SR5, access cab, 4x2, 2886 miles and built on 9/99. I have made an appointment with the dealership. Has anyone experienced a loose captain chair armrest problem ? Thank you !
GM takes a radically different approach to engineering. For instance, the silverado ABS...engineered to fail, just like the engine, tranny, rear differential, etc, etc...
ABS are a little bit sensitive - they come on almost too fast.
Engine - smooth as silk, great power and almost 16 mpg in mostly city driving, not bad for a "FULL SIZE" 4x4.
Transmission was reflashed to cure a ruff 1-2 shift when in TOW/HAUL mode (only trip to the dealer not counting oil change). Since then it has been the best shifting auto I have ever owned.
Rear differential - Mine is a locker - love the traction it gives -
Arm rest - even though it is full size the only time I use it is on trips over 50 miles.
But I will give the Tundra some credit - not a bad effort for a first timer from Toyota. (I do not count the T-100 - I think even Toyota is trying to put that in the past).
Consider yourself lucky. A good friend of mine took delivery of his Y2K 1500 last week, and after 150 miles back to the shop it goes. The tranny is slipping big time. Nearly got him killed this weekend in an intersection.
Speaking of luck. Do chevy truck buyers do any rituals like crossing fingers or slaughtering chickens before they buy. I've been reading posts on topic #969. What a freakin' nightmare! A guy in my squadron bought a silverado because it had many more options than the Tundra. The poor guy never drives his truck because it's been in the shop so much. I feel bad talking to him because all I have to complain about is the Tundra clock placement(my wife told me to quit bching about it), and the armrest.
rwellbaum2, How did you get a locking differential in a 2000 Tundra? I've been told this is not possible and most of us are waiting to see if Toyota offers this in next year's model.
I did not buy the Tundra - I have a Silverado X-cab LT 4x4, tow package, upgrade tire, locker. I did consider the Tundra but the cab size was to small for my needs. I also liked the extra features that Toyota does not offer yet on the Tundra. I could have lived with the smaller size bed - (you can always make two trips) - but the back seat was just not what I wanted. I sold a Nissan before getting my new truck and part of the reason was my kids had out grown the back seat.
Is your post just a nice way to tell me to get off the Tundra site? You don't have to be nice to chevy owners when they are on a Toyota site. I think that is in the participants agreement. I can answer the question about the locker.
The only way to get a locker on the Tundra would be to wait until the 2001 model comes out. As srewed up as the auto companies are with the calendar that will most likely be June of 2000.
I've had my SR5 V8 Tundra for about a month now. It has about 850 miles on it and so far I have enjoyed every mile in it. Since I haven't had any real problems with my truck I thought I might list the minor annoyances I've had so far. Some of these are very,very minor, but still, here they are:
--While in reverse, I tried to switch on the cargo light. The button depressed, but the indicator light did not come on and the light in the cargo bed did not come on. I tried pushing several times, but no luck. I stopped, put the vehicle in drive and pressed the cargo light button, and voila, the indicator light came on and the cargo light came on as well. Very weird. This is the only time I've had this particular problem.
--My "door ajar" light usually stays on even after all the doors are shut, until the engine is started.
--The Securikey+ truck key is big and bulky and doesn't fit well on a keychain. Instead of a hole going all the way through the key, the hole starts on one side of the key and goes out at the top of the key. The result is that your truck key is always poking out straight up from your keychain. Uncomfortable and awkward if you keep your keys in your front pocket.
--The clock placement is terrible. It is very low on the front console and off center to the passengers side. Glancing at the clock requires me to move my eyes from the road longer than feels comfortable in heavy traffic. It would have been better to place the clock in radio which is mounted high on the control console.
--LCD Odometer does not display tenths of miles unless you have selected a trip setting. Mildly annoying for me (but maybe no one else).
--The seat belt housing coming down from the top of the ceiling creaks during normal driving conditions. At first I thought it might be the door rattling, but fortunately it wasn't. Probably the only reason I notice this is because the ride is otherwise extremely quiet.
Like I said, very, very minor nits. The truck runs great, has fantastic acceleration, and has exhibited no vibration problems at all so far. Overall the ergonomics are super as long as you aren't riding in the back seat. The 60/40 bench seat is very comfortable and is a great place to spend the day. I haven't had a chance to tow any horses with it yet since it is still in its "break-in" period, but I am looking forward to seeing how it performs under load.
According to the manual the cargo light will not light if the vehicle is moving over 3 MPH.
The door ajar light staying on is part of the security system. If you don't open and close the door and insert the key with 30 seconds it automatically rearms.
You're right, those are very minor. Would have to agree with kente. I would lube the seat belt hinge, or bring it back to the dealer to lube.
As far as the key thing, do you have special keys? My key hole goes all the way through, the same as my Camry.
I agree with the clock placement, but it really doesn't bother me.
My only minor complaint is the twist on the seat belt. I rubs against my neck. I've tried adjusting the height, but haven't found a comfortable position yet.
My wife says she loves this truck! You know what that means - eventually she will get brave enough to drive it and then all of a sudden it will be hers. I should've bought a Dodge (just kidding).
Don't get me wrong, I really like this Tundra and I think Toyota is the greatest.
I'm not getting the mileage that I expected in this truck. 11 to 12 max.
I added a topper so I can get my canoe and kayaks out for any whitewater alerts. The truck totally lost it's lateral stability. In any kind of 60mph + turns it feels like it wants to flip over, even without the boats. I can control a skid, but not a flip. My T-100 never felt this way. It would feel like it may slide, but not flip. I'm starting to think this truck has a air of Detroit about it. Maybe the only real Toyota truck is the Tacoma. Might have to give it up and go look at F-150 or Silverado. Can't live like this. Any ideas.
11-12 mpg is horrible. The worst I get with the V-8 access cab 4wd is 15.2 mpg (@85 mph) and the best so far on the fwy is 18.4 (@65 mph). I'd say something is amiss. As for rolling over, I also have a cab high canopy and really haven't noticed any tipping over feeling. To me the truck actually seems to handle like a car around turns. This may change when I start loading my hang gliders on top. I plan to get a rear anti-sway bar in any event. The overall front suspension on my non-TRD is a bit soft for my liking and I'll eventually get some stiffer shocks.
my last car was a corvette (quality sucks, performance is good) and now i have a tundra, while it is very susceptible to side winds its nothing more than i expect from a truck (full size). i do the same speed home from work as i did in the vette, - only thing that scraes me is the curves,butlike i said - it's A TRUCK!!!!
PS. my mpg is also 12.9-13.4 but i have mud tires, and i think thats my prob.
PSS. the 0-60 beats the mpg, so i dont REALLY care but expected different, while the SOCH engines of the competitors (larger) create same power (and more weight) and better mpg.
Have you taken the truck into the dealer? Toyota service departments can normally determine what the problem is and fix it in one trip. It could be something very simple like a defective tire. I had a similar experience (with a car) and my tire had a bulge in it the size of a baseball. It drove fine on a straight road but in a corner it felt like an amusement park ride. I doubt the topper has anything to do with your problem. Just my $.02 worth
I agree 100% I was almost pushed into a chevy by the crappy toy salesmen. If toyota would wake up and change the way their salesman do business I think they'd double their business. Their trucks are great, good service, but a horrible buying experience.The dealers all played the same old tired games and acted like their trucks were the most valuable commodity on earth. I finally found a dealer willing to negotiate. Meanwhile the dealers I walked out on have many tundras sitting on their lots gathering dust and they still want top dollar.
are not stupid, they are just trying to make the most $$ they can. GM, Ford and Dodge try to earn a little bit on each truck and try to sell a lot of trucks, Toyota tries to make big profits and accepts that they will sell fewer trucks. In the end they make as much or more as a big 3 dealer. Another reason is the number of dealers they have. Look in the yellow pages I would bet 8 chevy dealers for every 1 Toyota dealer. They all compete for your business but the chevy guy knows you can drive 5 miles and buy a chevy just like the one he is selling. With Toyota in some markets you would need to drive 200 miles.
My wife is a CSI manager for Toyota. We both met while working for GM, Cadillac to be exact. She comes home so stressed out from dealing with alligators all day. If you saw all the problems she sees all day every day, you would see what a bunch of JUNK the Toyotas are. The paint peeled off her '99 Camry demo when it was washed the first time & her '00 Avalon demo lost the transmission when she hit 427 miles. When she worked for Cadillac her biggest problem was deciding where to shop during her lunch break. So we did the smart thing and went out and bought a '00 Escalde. After 11,000 miles the only problem to report was a thread hanging from the seat bottom. With our first hand expereince we can honestly say we will NEVER own an import. If you only new how they are built.
I guess your wife just came across a few bad Toyotas. My Tundra is great, have over 17,000 miles. Just wait, GM products will start to develop problems, they all do.
just how clueless some people really are. Most Toyota owners I have spoken with have no knowledge of Auto Mechanics and really don't even know much about their own vehicles. They find a GM truck (which so happens to be the target of Toyota owners) that has a problem and all of a sudden now all GM trucks are junk, but then if you tell of a bad Toyota, it was just that one and "must have been a fluke" because all Toyota's are flawless.
What difference does union or non-union make really? The only difference I see is that the non-union cars (imports) put more money into the pockets of the seat warmers up top. They don't save the consumer any money. Actually they cost more money to purchase. The non-union auto worker isn't seeing any of that money.
BTW: CWirth, GM and Toyota have partnered and shared info on many vehicles like the Geo's and the Saturn.
You Toy owners need to get a new line. The old ones are nauseating.
I have been trying to find a Tundra topic that is more than just a bunch of bickering about who's truck is best, but its kinda hard to find.
Since the title of this topic is "Tell us your Tundra experiences", I thought this would be the best place to post my Tundra experience.
Well, I finally got my Tundra and couldn't be happier. It's a V8 4X4 SR5 Access Cab with the factory AL Aluminum wheel package (like the Limited and TRD) and 265 tires. I've had it about 4 days and have 750+ miles on it (I had to drive 250 miles to get it). This past weekend I put about 100 miles on while off-highway on Forest Service roads and logging trails. No problems of any kind. No vibration or flutter whatsoever - its as smooth as silk. No rattles or squeeks. I wonder if some of the other people that have complained about vibration have the distributer installed aluminum wheels vs. the factory wheels like on the Limited and TRD. I do notice that when driving off road and through my pasture that I can feel more through the steering wheel than on my '90 Chevy, but this is probably due to the tight rack and pinion steering (the Chevy steering has got some play in it).
I've filled the tank up 3 times from about 1/2 full and milage has been 16.6, 16.5, and 15.9 using 87 Octane. I've been taking in kinda easy during the break-in and have been driving mostly with the O/D Off to keep the RPMs up around 2-3K.
I have the 60/40 bench seat and really like it. Its really comfortable when I'm alone or with 3 across in the front.
Looks like I'll be changing my oil and filter this weekend at close to 1000 miles (initial oil change, will use 3000 mile interval after that). I'll be using 5W30 Castrol with a Toyota YZZB5 filter. So far the engine has used no oil, which indicates that the rings are seating fine. I plan on switching to Mobil 1 at around 10,000 miles and increasing the change interval from 3000 miles to 6000 miles.
You , of course, are welcome here. It just seems silly for you to hang-out here after all the posts about how sick you are of people saying Toyotas are reliable. If I don't like a TV show, I change the channel. Don't you?
I have had too many vehicles to count, many were not kept very long. But of them all, the Toyota vehicles I have had, have been some of the least toublesome with the highest quality of fit and finish. My latest vehicles owned were a 97 F-150 and a 99 F-250(diesel) that I liked and were good trucks. I just got a new Toyota Tundra Limited Access and like it better. I would agree with some postings about the clock and arm rest and would like a little better gas mileage, but for me The Tundra fit the bill better for what I needed, expected and wanting in a truck. I am also a very picky and demanding customer and my experiences at my local Toyota dealership in Alabama has always been great. This has rarely been the case with the big 3 dealers.
If you have a Tundra with the factory security system and don't like it locking you in when you turn the key, that can be changed. I read the manual and found that out thinking it was maybe part of the regular truck system. Just throwing that out for someone who might not know this.
tp4unc: My point is that anyone should be able to come here and just gather info without seeing a bunch of bashing of truck makes and such nonsense.
I really think Toyota made a good truck with the Tundra. Still not my first or even second choice yet. I want to see Toyota offer more choices and options as well as a bigger cargo bed and more interior room. I don't think it is as small as the Dakota like a lot have said, but not much bigger. Why did they not go for an equally sized and equipped truck as the big three? That is my only question of the truck itself, not a question of quality.
I respect your right to buy a Toyota. I just would like the same courtesy when the other trucks are referrenced. Feel free to give your honest opinions just as I have, but I have done so without slamming the Tundra. Just because it doesn't fully suit my need yet, doesn't mean I think it is a bad truck and that only fools buy them, which is the impression I keep getting from Toyota owners about the GM trucks. That would be equivelant to saying that someone who owns a small truck doesn't have a real truck just because they preferred not to buy a full size truck. It is just plain silly and a waste of time.
Yes, I do usually change the channels on TV stations I don't like, but there is a difference between a show for comedy or pleasure and one for information. One doesn't expect to see and hear a bunch of clutter and disarray when they turn on 60 minutes or 20/20 or the Channel 4 news. Those shows are suppose to be professional and run by adults, and viewed by the same.
Bill, I am in Anniston and bought from Sunny King. Kalvin has been my salesman. What part of Alabama are you in? I also have a 2000 Corolla and a 99 RX300 Lexus. I guess you can say I'm all Toyota now and have a good variation of vehicles- an economy car, a mid-size SUV, and a Truck. Life is good.
Bud light dud, I enjoy reading your comments and observations. Sorry some dog you because you prefer Chev. Keep on trucking and do it your way.
Comments
lmurf
Our experience with oil analysis showed that there was no magical "time or mileage" to change oil. There were simply too many factors that affected that time. With a large fleet of similar equipment and usage it is worth the expense to check a few typical units and build a oil change program on those results. It is simply not worth it however for the average car or truck owner. Now that I have said all that, let's cut to meat of the subject...Oil is the cheapest and I repeat, CHEAPEST, thing you can do to extend the life of your car or truck engine. Rather than spend the 12 to 15 dollars required to do oil analysis, simply change the oil every 3000 miles or so and drain away all that bad stuff. Actually, we found by cutting open filters and checking their contents, that we could easily get by with a filter change every other oil change. Modern engines simply do not generate much in the way of large solid particles as a normal course of events. The filter is there to catch stuff that can do real damage to the bearings but not the micro fine stuff in suspension in the oil. The choice of filter change is a personal one but I can only tell you...change oil frequently and live long and prosper!! One other item, we found that the advantage of the synthetics was primarily in resisting thermal breakdown found only in turbocharged or very high performance engines. Those very expensive oils do a great job along that line but will not hold any more contamination in suspension that a good grade of conventional oil. Unless you have a specific requirement for such an oil, save your money and change oil frequently.
p.s. Could you also post this on the oil topic in Maintenance - good discussion.
ups, and big trucks). My wife and I both enjoy driving it more than we do our Lincoln. - but!!From the first time we drove it, shortly after you got up any speed, there was this noise in the left rear door that sounded as if you had run over something in the road and it flew up and hit the door. We would automaticly watch in the rear view mirrow to see what we had run over. - nothing. This has gone on about every time we use the truck, and after it happens each time the 'door open' light comes on on the dash. Then a while later you will hear a very loud click, and it is both front doors unlocking, and a light comes on under the left dash, and the door light on the right side. some times the dome lights even come on, until I turned the switch off over-head. We have had it at the local Toyoto dealer four times. One time they kept it four days and over the thanksgiving week end. Said they put in some sort of motor and switch in left door. No better off. Another time they kept it three days, and adjusted the doors, which they did for several times. Now you can hardly close the doors to make the inside lights go out. Sometime you have to go around the truck slamming the doors several times before the inside lights go out. We don't dare use the remote to lock the doors. One time after they had 'fixed it', we parked infront of a restaurant and the horn started blowing and the lights blinking. Seems as tho it takes for ever to get it stopped. Once at Church it did this.
Has anyone else had this problem? I plan to take it back to the selling dealer after the holidays. About ten percent of the miles I have on this truck has been taking it back and forth to the dealer. This is my first Toyoto, and when I bought it I thought I was getting away from this sort of workmanship.
On a side note, I actually have a smile on my face when I get to work on Monday's!!!! Love this truck!!!
ABS are a little bit sensitive - they come on almost too fast.
Engine - smooth as silk, great power and almost 16 mpg in mostly city driving, not bad for a "FULL SIZE" 4x4.
Transmission was reflashed to cure a ruff 1-2 shift when in TOW/HAUL mode (only trip to the dealer not counting oil change). Since then it has been the best shifting auto I have ever owned.
Rear differential - Mine is a locker - love the traction it gives -
Arm rest - even though it is full size the only time I use it is on trips over 50 miles.
But I will give the Tundra some credit - not a bad effort for a first timer from Toyota. (I do not count the T-100 - I think even Toyota is trying to put that in the past).
Consider yourself lucky. A good friend of mine took delivery of his Y2K 1500 last week, and after 150 miles back to the shop it goes. The tranny is slipping big time. Nearly got him killed this weekend in an intersection.
How did you get a locking differential in a 2000 Tundra? I've been told this is not possible and most of us are waiting to see if Toyota offers this in next year's model.
How did you get a locking differential in a 2000 Tundra?
www.tundratoys.com
I did consider the Tundra but the cab size was to small for my needs. I also liked the extra features that Toyota does not offer yet on the Tundra. I could have lived with the smaller size bed - (you can always make two trips) - but the back seat was just not what I wanted. I sold a Nissan before getting my new truck and part of the reason was my kids had out grown the back seat.
Is your post just a nice way to tell me to get off the Tundra site? You don't have to be nice to chevy owners when they are on a Toyota site. I think that is in the participants agreement. I can answer the question about the locker.
The only way to get a locker on the Tundra would be to wait until the 2001 model comes out. As srewed up as the auto companies are with the calendar that will most likely be June of 2000.
--While in reverse, I tried to switch on the cargo light. The button depressed, but the indicator light did not come on and the light in the cargo bed did not come on. I tried pushing several times, but no luck. I stopped, put the vehicle in drive and pressed the cargo light button, and voila, the indicator light came on and the cargo light came on as well. Very weird. This is the only time I've had this particular problem.
--My "door ajar" light usually stays on even after all the doors are shut, until the engine is started.
--The Securikey+ truck key is big and bulky and doesn't fit well on a keychain. Instead of a hole going all the way through the key, the hole starts on one side of the key and goes out at the top of the key. The result is that your truck key is always poking out straight up from your keychain. Uncomfortable and awkward if you keep your keys in your front pocket.
--The clock placement is terrible. It is very low on the front console and off center to the passengers side. Glancing at the clock requires me to move my eyes from the road longer than feels comfortable in heavy traffic. It would have been better to place the clock in radio which is mounted high on the control console.
--LCD Odometer does not display tenths of miles unless you have selected a trip setting. Mildly annoying for me (but maybe no one else).
--The seat belt housing coming down from the top of the ceiling creaks during normal driving conditions. At first I thought it might be the door rattling, but fortunately it wasn't. Probably the only reason I notice this is because the ride is otherwise extremely quiet.
Like I said, very, very minor nits. The truck runs great, has fantastic acceleration, and has exhibited no vibration problems at all so far. Overall the ergonomics are super as long as you aren't riding in the back seat. The 60/40 bench seat is very comfortable and is a great place to spend the day. I haven't had a chance to tow any horses with it yet since it is still in its "break-in" period, but I am looking forward to seeing how it performs under load.
According to the manual the cargo light will not light if the vehicle is moving over 3 MPH.
The door ajar light staying on is part of the security system. If you don't open and close the door and insert the key with 30 seconds it automatically rearms.
hope this helps
kente
As far as the key thing, do you have special keys? My key hole goes all the way through, the same as my Camry.
I agree with the clock placement, but it really doesn't bother me.
My only minor complaint is the twist on the seat belt. I rubs against my neck. I've tried adjusting the height, but haven't found a comfortable position yet.
I'm not getting the mileage that I expected in this truck. 11 to 12 max.
I added a topper so I can get my canoe and kayaks out for any whitewater alerts. The truck totally lost it's lateral stability. In any kind of 60mph + turns it feels like it wants to flip over, even without the boats. I can control a skid, but not a flip. My T-100 never felt this way. It would feel like it may slide, but not flip. I'm starting to think this truck has a air of Detroit about it. Maybe the only real Toyota truck is the Tacoma. Might have to give it up and go look at F-150 or Silverado. Can't live like this. Any ideas.
my last car was a corvette (quality sucks, performance is good) and now i have a tundra, while it is very susceptible to side winds its nothing more than i expect from a truck (full size). i do the same speed home from work as i did in the vette, - only thing that scraes me is the curves,butlike i said - it's A TRUCK!!!!
PS. my mpg is also 12.9-13.4 but i have mud tires, and i think thats my prob.
PSS. the 0-60 beats the mpg, so i dont REALLY care but expected different, while the SOCH engines of the competitors (larger) create same power (and more weight) and better mpg.
Just my $.02 worth
manager for Toyota. We
both met while working
for GM, Cadillac to be
exact. She comes home
so stressed out from
dealing with alligators
all day. If you saw all
the problems she sees
all day every day, you
would see what a bunch
of JUNK the Toyotas
are. The paint peeled
off her '99 Camry demo when it was washed the
first time & her '00
Avalon demo lost the
transmission when she
hit 427 miles. When she worked for Cadillac her biggest problem was
deciding where to shop
during her lunch break.
So we did the smart
thing and went out and
bought a '00 Escalde.
After 11,000 miles the
only problem to report
was a thread hanging
from the seat bottom.
With our first hand
expereince we can
honestly say we will
NEVER own an import. If you only new how they are built.
What difference does union or non-union make really? The only difference I see is that the non-union cars (imports) put more money into the pockets of the seat warmers up top. They don't save the consumer any money. Actually they cost more money to purchase. The non-union auto worker isn't seeing any of that money.
BTW: CWirth, GM and Toyota have partnered and shared info on many vehicles like the Geo's and the Saturn.
You Toy owners need to get a new line. The old ones are nauseating.
And...
Are you saying that Union made products save the consumer money?
Please elaborate.
Since the title of this topic is "Tell us your Tundra experiences", I thought this would be the best place to post my Tundra experience.
Well, I finally got my Tundra and couldn't be happier. It's a V8 4X4 SR5 Access Cab with the factory AL Aluminum wheel package (like the Limited and TRD) and 265 tires. I've had it about 4 days and have 750+ miles on it (I had to drive 250 miles to get it). This past weekend I put about 100 miles on while off-highway on Forest Service roads and logging trails. No problems of any kind. No vibration or flutter whatsoever - its as smooth as silk. No rattles or squeeks. I wonder if some of the other people that have complained about vibration have the distributer installed aluminum wheels vs. the factory wheels like on the Limited and TRD. I do notice that when driving off road and through my pasture that I can feel more through the steering wheel than on my '90 Chevy, but this is probably due to the tight rack and pinion steering (the Chevy steering has got some play in it).
I've filled the tank up 3 times from about 1/2 full and milage has been 16.6, 16.5, and 15.9 using 87 Octane. I've been taking in kinda easy during the break-in and have been driving mostly with the O/D Off to keep the RPMs up around 2-3K.
I have the 60/40 bench seat and really like it. Its really comfortable when I'm alone or with 3 across in the front.
Looks like I'll be changing my oil and filter this weekend at close to 1000 miles (initial oil change, will use 3000 mile interval after that). I'll be using 5W30 Castrol with a Toyota YZZB5 filter. So far the engine has used no oil, which indicates that the rings are seating fine. I plan on switching to Mobil 1 at around 10,000 miles and increasing the change interval from 3000 miles to 6000 miles.
If you have a Tundra with the factory security system and don't like it locking you in when you turn the key, that can be changed. I read the manual and found that out thinking it was maybe part of the regular truck system. Just throwing that out for someone who might not know this.
Keep on trucking
tp4unc:
My point is that anyone should be able to come here and just gather info without seeing a bunch of bashing of truck makes and such nonsense.
I really think Toyota made a good truck with the Tundra. Still not my first or even second choice yet. I want to see Toyota offer more choices and options as well as a bigger cargo bed and more interior room. I don't think it is as small as the Dakota like a lot have said, but not much bigger. Why did they not go for an equally sized and equipped truck as the big three? That is my only question of the truck itself, not a question of quality.
I respect your right to buy a Toyota. I just would like the same courtesy when the other trucks are referrenced. Feel free to give your honest opinions just as I have, but I have done so without slamming the Tundra. Just because it doesn't fully suit my need yet, doesn't mean I think it is a bad truck and that only fools buy them, which is the impression I keep getting from Toyota owners about the GM trucks. That would be equivelant to saying that someone who owns a small truck doesn't have a real truck just because they preferred not to buy a full size truck. It is just plain silly and a waste of time.
Yes, I do usually change the channels on TV stations I don't like, but there is a difference between a show for comedy or pleasure and one for information. One doesn't expect to see and hear a bunch of clutter and disarray when they turn on 60 minutes or 20/20 or the Channel 4 news. Those shows are suppose to be professional and run by adults, and viewed by the same.
Take care.
Bud light dud, I enjoy reading your comments and observations. Sorry some dog you because you prefer Chev. Keep on trucking and do it your way.