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The only sure and certain way to defog the windshield is to turn the heat control to max heat and then activate the defrost/defog/demist function to heat the windshield interior surface above the dewpoint. Remember that this system does NOT warm the interior windshield surface at all in cooling mode, airflow from the dash outlets. If you wish to keep the windshield interior surface above the dewpoint on a cool or cold day you MUST over-ride the system into heating mode, footwell outflow, or even better footwell and windshield combined airflow mode.
I have noticed that many of the newer Toyota and Lexus vehicles are equipped with a "humidity control sensor". I have not been able to find anything designating how or why this is there but I will hazard a guess.
Toyota and Lexus automatic climate control systems have always had, and still have, a really horrible design flaw in that they rely EXCLUSIVELY on the dehumidification capabilities of the A/C to prevent and/or remove condensation from the windshield interior surface.
The efficiency of the A/C to dehumidify the incoming airstream is highly dependednt on exterior climatic conditions of the moment. In general the ability of the A/C to dehumidify the incoming airstream declines as the OAT declines below about 47F, and becomes non-existent below about 35F.
I have little doubt that this design flaw has resulted in not just a few accidents over the many years of its existence, use. It often results in quite sudden and complete fogging over of the interior surface of the windshield surface to the point where there is little or no forward vision available for the driver.
In the conditions you describe most Toyota and Lexus owners have learned to leave the system in the defrost/defog/demist position continuously. Sometimes even with that you still have to turn up the heat level of the system in order to keep the windshield interior surface warmed above the dewpoint.
Because of a well known uniqueness of these designs warming airflow is NOT available to the windshield interior surface EXCEPT in defrost/defog/demist mode, and not even then unless the system's setpoint temperatrue is raised above that of the cabin atmosphere. NipponDenso, or Denso US, the parent company of this design, even holds a US patent pertaining to the unique feature, predominantly WARMING airflow for the lower portions of the passenger area and predominantly COOLING airflow to the upper portions of the passenger cabin, including airflow to the interior surface of the windshield.
So my guess is that given the long history of owner complaints of sudden windshield fogging Denso has reacted by somehow detecting the windshield fogging condition, via the new Humidity Control Sensor. But only after the windshield fogging begins, is noticeable to the driver, and then somehow heating the windshield long enough to cause the fogging to regress, but not long enough to raise the windshield interior surface temperature high enough above dewpoint to prevent its quick return.
Isn't the Ody reduced horsepower rating of 244 HP the only minivan with more HP than the Sienna? Remember, the Ody also weighs considerably more than the Sienna and the torque is NOT available until a much higher RPM than the Sienna. In my test drive, the Sienna was the quickest.
Kevin
But I think most vans out there have less power than either the Ody or Sienna, save for the Quest. (have they re-rated it yet?)
Nissan Quest: 240 hp
GM vans: 240 hp (optional 2006)
Toyota Sienna: 215 hp and 222 lb.-ft. of torque
Ford Freestar: 201 hp and 265 lb.-ft. of torque (high-end models)
DC vans: 207 hp and 240 lb.-ft. of torque.
Interesting about the climate control. Unfortunately I do not have the automatic A/C so that is not the explination in my case. Actually it seems to be the opposite for me The A/C just does not seem to come on. I wish it would rely on the A/C some more as that always cleared my car in seconds as it is very dry in SD in the winter time.
-Dudley
Since it is clearly dangerous to do so, use the A/C in this manner, it is entirely possible that ALL newer Toyota and Lexus systems are being shipped with the A/C "unlinked" from automatic operation in defrost/defog/demist mode.
I can't be sure of this but I think that the owners manual for non-automatic climate control system will say that the proper procedure for clearing the windshield of condensation is to turn the heating left up anytime the windshield needs to be cleared. I would add that if the problem repeats in the manner you state then leave the system in defrost/defog/demist long enough to heat the windshiedl far above the dewpoint of the cabin atmosphere.
Of course it never hurts to activate the A/C for whatever help it might render, which could be substantial, but since we know that HEATED airflow to the windshield will ALWAYS help that should be the primary method of choice.
Technically, not true. The Odyssey's power RATING is down for 2006. The actual hp generated by the engine is unchanged.
There are two c-best options available for the 2001 RX300, so you can disable the A/C indefinitely and another to unlink the A/C from operating automatically, provided the OAT is above 33F, in defrost/defog/demist mode.
Prior to having this feature available I simply disconnected my A/C compressor clutch during the winter months, going back to the mid-seventies.
I also know that some folks lurk in here for very short periods and/or only read a few posts. I just didn't want someone who only joined the forum a few days ago to get the wrong impression and think that the engines were making less power in '06 than in '05.
a little noisey before first oil change, it's the breaking, i guess, now it's fine.
i am fine with the tires so far. :P
but the gas milage is poor 15.7 with 50% highway, 50% local drive.
The valuable trip computer accurately shows him that starting, idling, etc. wastes large amounts of fuel...just as the accurate trip computer on my 2002 T&C LX does.
Thanks in advance.
He has heard NO knocking and tells me it has good power. I have used 85 octane exclusively in my 2002 T&C LX except when driving in lower altitude of Arizona, Nevada, and California.
My question is,if you use a higher Octane than 87, do you get better mileage?Has anyone checked their MPG average with different octanes?
Most of my driving is done at elevations between 300'to 800'above sea level.
Premium actually does bump up MPG numbers in my Infiniti, by about 3 MPG highway. (in the city there's no difference)
Now given these readings are taken during winter driving, but I would expect the mileage to be much better than this. I've been basically driving to work and back, you can consider it half higheway and half city.
Bottom line I bought the Sienna after reading it's advertised gas mileage but the actual figure is nowhere close.
I'm gonna do some more readings though.
1. make sure your tire pressure is where it is supposed to be. The lower the pressure, the worse the mileage.
2. do you (or does your spouse) sit with the car in idle often? This is what kills my mpg readings. Sitting at drive-throughs or at stores while waiting for my wife to come out.
Thanks in advance and this another great resource board.
I have looked over the owners manual but did not see the Quick Guide you mentioned in my glove box.. how is it? Is it any better than the owners manual?
Well, the cynic in me wants to say it is because most speedometers are not 100% accurate and the manufacturers don't want to deal with a bunch of warranty claims from folks insisting that their dash speedometer be 'fixed' so that it matches the speed given by the GPS.
thinking about getting 2005 awd xle. it comes with a single cd without mp3.
however, 2006 ce comes with a single cd with mp3. do you think i might be able
to switch it? are there any other options to get mp3 in a 2005?
thanks a lot!
Your thoughts ?
While bringing it home (220 miles) had noticed an intermittent smell of burning oil coming from air vents.
Is that normal for a brand new car? I don't remember having
this with the previous cars I bought.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
I was pretty much planning on a new 2006, but figured I'd post to see if anyone has any thoughts. Seems to me like the first several thousand miles are important and I have no idea how it was driven. On the other hand, there's probably a price point where that becomes a risk worth taking.
Would I price it based on Edmund's TMV for a used "05?
I would appreciate any thoughts on this. Thanks.
I would stay away from the "nearly" new 2005. Who knows
why it was dumped after 6K miles? Who much would you save
anyway? I think you can probably get a killer deal on a new well-equipped 2005 (depending on where you live.) Just call around the dealers and ask.
If you like that particular car, ask the dealer to throw
in an extended warranty (bumper-to-bumper 5y/100K miles).
Although if you can find a brand new 2005 available, that's the way to go.
I live in NH and am vacationing in FL. I thought I might find a better deal on AWD here in FL, and I could drive it back up to NH (which would be fun-I like road trips). That's how I ran into this "new" 2005.
One other thing I forgot about is that it does not have Nav. I don't care about DVD but I do want Nav and would have to add an aftermarket which I think is less desirable just because of the wires, theft risk, etc.
As I think about it more, I think I'll pass on the "05 with 6K miles. 60 miles would be another story...
IMHO, portable navigation system (like Palm
with GPS receiver) is a much better investment.
You can even buy maps of foreign countries
and take it with you wherever you travel.
No, 6K is *usually* not a good deal.
Somebody has lost a TON of money by selling
a car with 6K on it (at least $5K). So, there
must have been a good reason to get rid of it.
That said, I once bought a car with 6K
on it. However, the car had well-documented history:
-was a rental at Hertz (it is perfectly normal for rental agencies to sell cars after a year)
-had service records
-dealer agreed to state in writing that the car has never been in any accident and was not repaired.
The car already has 104K and still looks good.
Is there enough real world difference in handling to warrant the 3-5 mpg highway miles that you sacrifice with the AWD model?
Several salesmen (both Toyota & Honda) have told me the FWD will do just about as well as the AWD - your experience please!
Paul