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Comments
Most of those miles came in RWD/4x4 trucks, but some came in a little FWD car with no TRAC/VSC/ABS. The most dangerous trips were in the RWD/4x4 vehicles prior to throwing them into 4x4.
When driving in rear-biased 4x4, the only advantage I have ever seen is starting from a stop. The FWD vehicles I have driven, including my own POS, handled icy roads better than the RWD vehicles and just as well as those same vehicles in 4x4 mode.
I don't know what your little trip in '64 taught you, but it should have clued you in a little in my last post when I mentioned living in MN with a hometown in MT.
At some point, Willard, you will need to recognize that just because you are paranoid it doesn't mean that they aren't out to get you. Your posts remind me of River Phoenix in the beginning of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade when he emerges from the cave with the Cross of Coronado and finds all his friends have left. His line, "Everyone is lost, but me." There are reasons people don't agree with you and that you are the lone voice in the wilderness in these FWD/AWD/4x4 issues.
Apparently...
Wasn't just one trip, lived in Lewistown for awhile in the sixties, sister lived in Cut Bank for all of her adult life. Wife hails from Lewistown, still make the trip about twice a year but try to avoid wintertime ones.
Also remember a trip from Cut Bank to Browning with a strong crosswind, solid snow such that the power line poles were our only reference point to remain on the roadbed, or at least close.
I guess the bottom line is I will likely never understand, EVERYONE agrees that the handling dynamics are different, yet no one will agree that in some circumstances the FWD will become quickly hazardous.
No one doubts the hazardous aspects of the mid-life rear engine RWD 911, so why the defensive position on FWD when it exhibits almost the very same ("reverse") charactoristics?
Speaking of which I often ran for many miles in MT with RWD and rear chains only, have you ever tried it with FWD and front chains only?
Steve, Host
I desire it and will try to seek allocation of one. It is better than fwd. That does not mean FWD is not good. I like the way it drives better than 2wd. My wife like to know its there.
There is no argument, as there is no right or wrong.
kgnw1 "Toyota Sienna - What did you pay?" Mar 22, 2003 2:55pm
I contacted a fleet company and got a quote from them. They had a pretty good deal with 2% over invoice and that was my fall back if I wasn't able to get a better deal from the dealers.
I sent an email to the 22 dealers in WA:
1 - Looking for a specific model with the Toyota part numbers and this is the price I get it for.
2 - You have 1 week to respond to this email or I will go with the the fleet deal.
3 - I will post my experience about your dealership on several websites. This is free advertising for you and you'll benefit by giving me a good deal.
4 - I'm pre-approved and $xxx amount that I can put down today if you're the best deal.
I got varying responses, but 3 of them said they would match the fleet offer. The dealer I finally went with got 7 additional easy sales by giving me the best deal I could get. Every time I talk to them, they keep on telling me that they'll put me on commission. (Steve - I'm not getting paid)
Anyway, those are a couple things I did. But it won't work for everyone. Hope that helps
Sorta like having the front drive in first gear and the rear drive in second gear with an over-running clutch (center open diff'l) to prevent F/R "binding".
That was at my local dealer so I'll be sure to say hi everytime I drop in for service.
Most vehicles in question have four points of contact with the roadbed, asking only two of those to do the majority of the "work" can NEVER be a better solution than distributing the "forces" over all four contact patches.
I sincerely suspect that one day soon we will see AWD vehicles in the market that dynamically "unload" driving or decel engine torque from the front tires as the VSC system's yaw sensor dictates.
If the new 4runner isn't doing that already. The brochure certainly reads as if that might be the case.
2. If you got the cargo net and 1st aid kit add on, where did they keep it? I have a feeling the dealer forgot to give them to me, because I can't find them.
3. Can't figure out the "trick" on how to remove the passenger middle seat. Looked at the book but we still can't get it out (want to move it over).
There are so many buttons on this thing. I've got a lot of learning to do.
Love the car though. Can't wait to go to work tomorrow so I can drive it again.
Bev
The seat behind the driver cannot slide to the right.
I got my van last night (LE with #7) and really am actually reading this book to figure out all of the neat stuff!
Still haven't figured out the details of the rear audio system, so I'd love to hear from someone that can tell me how to use this thing. The book hasn't really helped (although I'm going to try again today).
Take Care,
Bev
I think it is overly complicated the first time and somewhat cumbersome once you've figured it out.
However, it is not an issue for me. We have two babies and for the foreseeable future, only want the two seats together as a bench. The dealer showed us how to do it, set it up for us, and even helped install our car seats.
Having the 2nd row seats as a bench gives us more room to get back to the 3rd row seats. If and when we ever want to have space between the two seats, like when the kids get older and we don't have two car seats, then we'll probably have to reread the owner's manual.
If you believe you are going to change the seats back and forth from captains chairs to a bench, again and again, it may be inconvenient. But, if you do it that often, you'll be a pro and it won't be that tough. If, like us, you don't do it that often, I don't think it's anything to worry about. Either way, it doesn't seem like a big deal to me.
When people say you can 'slide the seats together', I believe that is just the most concise and easiest way to describe what the seats can do. But it is unlike the Odyssey's, where the seats actually slide.
My 12 year old figured out how to move the seat over (it doesn't slide) fairly easily. Tilt it forward, pull a cord, tilt it back, lift over to new position and it latches in.
As for the rear Audio, I know he got it working so I could listen to the radio while he was listening to the CD via earphones (they did not come with the package). I believe you can also reverse it so that the driver can listen to the CD while the back seat folks listen to the radio on the earphones.
As far as the middle seats go, no I don't think the way they move to the middle will be a problem. I just need to figure it out. I don't plan on moving them back and forth that often either. (The dealer moved the right seat inward and after trying it there, I've decided I don't like it there. I want to move it back near the door).
Thanks for your help everyone!
Bev
How is the BACK of the middle seat on Row 2 designed?
Since I wanted a 7 seat and am getting an 8 - I wonder if the middle seat might fold forward and serve as an armrest or place to set stuff (like a laptop)for the occupants of Row 2.
Can't find any photos on the 'net that capture this. . . . anyone want to take a digital photo for me?
(I do find a major fault in this book. It documents all of the features, but doesn't give you a clue as to what is an optional feature and what isn't. The only way to tell is to see if that option works in the car or not. Poor writing. I guess I'm more critical, since I am a technical writer.)
I'm going to go out in a little while and give the rear audio another try.
I LOVE this car. My daughter calls the auto sliding door the "Magic Door". I can't keep the kids out of the car. They want to be in it all the time, even when we aren't driving. LOL.
Thanks for your help.
Bev
If you get a shorter cord (ie 4 foot), then you can buy a cord extension for about 7$ (Radio Shack) price.
Take Care,
Bev
They're called 'wireless headphones'. You might want to try them out some time.
:-)
I figured it would be better to go with the cord than to risk the quality issues of the cordless. My kids love them! And they were 40% off at Radio Shack for Memorial Day sales.
(I posted this in a different forum but did not get a response so thought someone here could help)
3MZ-FE ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
The 3MZ-FE engine on the ’04 Sienna is a newly developed V6, 3.3-liter, 24-valve DOHC engine. It is based on the 1MZ-FE engine of the ’03 Sienna, in which the cylinder bore has been increased.
Furthermore, the VVT-i (Variable Valve Timing-intelligent) system, ACIS (Acoustic Control Induction System), and the ETCS-i (Electronic Throttle Control System-intelligent) have been adopted.
This engine complies with the ULEV-II (Ultra Low Emission Vehicle-II) regulations as a result of the changes made to its intake, exhaust, and fuel systems, as well as the optimal control of these systems.
Steve, Host
Still confused about the AWD/FWD Sienna. Some specs say the final drive ratio is 2.92/3.12 for FWD/AWD while someone posted that the front and rear drive ratios are different for AWD Sienna's.
I found another sight that states
"the power transfer unit is a gearbox that attaches to a transaxle. The right hand halfshaft passes through the transfer case and engages the differential side gear. The power transfer unit ring gear and carrier is driven the same speed as the right front axle shaft and overdrives the pinion gear and rear propshaft with the same gear ratio that the rear axle uses for gear reduction. This way the front and rear wheels rotate at the same speed regardless of the transaxle final drive gear ratio."
Can someone post at what RPM engine is when at 65MPH (and was it in 5th gear and which drive system they have (FWD/AWD).)
-Thanks
Since it appears that the Sienna AWD system is virtually a "clone" of the new RX330 AWD system then one would assume that the sienna also has different front and rear final drive ratios.
I was told by a Lexus factory representative that the purpose of this was to bias the engine torque more heavily to the front than the rear. Back when I bought my first RX the saleman insisted the torque split was 70/30 F/R.
My own suspicion is that as long as there is no "strain" on any part of the drivetrain, no slippage at any tire(s) nor any heavy acceleration or decel, then the open center diff'l acts as an "over-running clutch" and you get 50/50 torque F/R.
But the instant a rear tire slips (due to lighter weight) the torque becomes a function of the differing final drive ratios.
Only a guess, if anyone has a better explanation I, for one, am listening.
But what happens if you go WOT?
Oh yeah, wide open throttle :-) Carry on.
Steve, Host
2004 Sienna
There are more pictures on Toyota's website.
Toyota.com - 2004 Sienna
I hope you have better luck. In my case, I could get 150 off just by frowning at the local dealer. Not very impressed with their (CarsDirect) "aggressive pricing".
Price wise, there is no place for negociation in the Montreal area. Toyota has a new program where the dealers meet together and set a price that can not be changed. For the Sienna, the price is the list price! No deal possible. If a sale director give you another price he will loose his job. They would not even give me a free oil change...I managed to save 750$ by purshasing it in Ontario instead of Quebec. Next January, the program will be extended everywhere in Canada. No more deal for us. You better to get ready also in USA you may be the next target for Toyota. If Toyota has a good succes with this new program, Honda, Nissan and everybody else will follow.
In the U.S. that's called collusion, i.e. price-fixing, and is illegal.
I am interested in the NAV system. According to the Toyota Web, it is not clear to me if NAV system will prevent you have the 6-CD changer in the dash.
Thanks.
Most commonly it is a secret agreement among competing firms in an industry to control the market, raise the market price, etc...
So, collusion and price-fixing would most likely occur if Toyota and Honda secretly collaborated. Clear as mud?