Options
Most popular vehicles
Popular New Cars
- New Acura MDX
- New Acura RDX
- New Audi Q5
- New BMW 3 Series
- New BMW X3
- New Buick Enclave
- New Cadillac Escalade
- New Chevrolet Equinox
- New Chrysler 300
- New Dodge Challenger
- New Ford Edge
- New Ford Escape
- New Ford Expedition
- New Ford Explorer
- New Ford F-150
- New Ford Focus
- New Ford Mustang
- New Honda Accord
- New Honda Civic
- New Honda CR-V
- New Honda Fit
- New Honda Odyssey
- New Honda Pilot
- New Hyundai Elantra
- New Hyundai Santa Fe
- New Hyundai Sonata
- New Hyundai Tucson
- New Jeep Compass
- New Jeep Grand Cherokee
- New Jeep Wrangler
- New Mazda 3
- New Mazda 6
- New Mazda CX-5
- New Nissan Altima
- New Nissan Maxima
- New Nissan Rogue
- New Porsche Cayenne
- New Ram 1500
- New Subaru Crosstrek
- New Subaru Forester
- New Subaru Impreza
- New Subaru Outback
- New Tesla Model S
- New Tesla Model X
- New Toyota 4Runner
- New Toyota Camry
- New Toyota Corolla
- New Toyota Highlander
- New Toyota Prius
- New Toyota RAV4
- New Toyota Sienna
- New Toyota Tacoma
- New Volkswagen Jetta
- New Volvo XC60
- New Volvo XC90
Popular Used Sedans
- Used BMW 5 Series
- Used Chevrolet Impala
- Used Chevrolet Malibu
- Used Chrysler 200
- Used Dodge Charger
- Used Ford Fusion
- Used Ford Taurus
- Used Honda Accord
- Used Honda Civic
- Used Hyundai Elantra
- Used Hyundai Sonata
- Used Tesla Model S
- Used Toyota Camry
- Used Toyota Corolla
- Used Volkswagen Jetta
Popular Used SUVs
- Used Acura MDX
- Used Acura RDX
- Used Ford Edge
- Used Ford Explorer
- Used Honda CR-V
- Used Honda Pilot
- Used Hyundai Santa Fe
- Used Jeep Compass
- Used Lincoln Navigator
- Used Mazda CX-5
- Used Nissan Rogue
- Used Subaru Crosstrek
- Used Subaru Forester
- Used Tesla Model X
- Used Volvo XC90
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
First thing is, how do they verify my current mileage? do I need to notarize it?
Other things might be silly, but when I need to replace a battery or tires (those are not covered by major guard), do they cover labor fee? if I buy a new battery / tires from online or something like other sources (because their stock is more expensive) and bring them.
What about basic care like oil change, inspection of exhaused parts? They didn't mention it.
*I believe they just take your word for it, though they may have you sign an 'odometer disclosure' statement.
Other things might be silly, but when I need to replace a battery or tires (those are not covered by major guard), do they cover labor fee? if I buy a new battery / tires from online or something like other sources (because their stock is more expensive) and bring them.
*No, if a part is not covered, neither is the labor. They will also not cover repairs done with aftermarket parts. You will need to have all covered repairs done at a GM-approved facility.
What about basic care like oil change, inspection of exhaust parts? They didn't mention it.
*Maintenance and inspections are excluded.
Be sure to read the contract thoroughly before you buy it.
Its not that he is not interested, it is that they can't. The selling dealer of the service contract is the administrator for it. You have to go through them. Take them a copy of the odometer statement from when you traded it and proof that the loan is payed off if there was one. They will handle the refund for you.
Even if I buy ext warranty, I still pay for some basic care about buying oil, filter, or replace tires, a battery, brake pads or drum something like that.
Those cost might be various. just wild calculate it, changing oil/filter twice a year might be $30-50 and for 5 years it costs $300-500. Other things might cost $1500-3000/5 years. It means I'll pay $2000-3000 /5years and if I bought ext warranty (GMPP major guard might be $1000-1200), total cost might be $3000-4000/5years.
omg... what's point? If pre-protection could totally prevent any high-cost mechanical problem, I'd not buy ext warranty. But who knows? that's a dilemma. Can I trust my vehicle performance? (well, it's saturn ion 2004). I need further to research.
if any suggestions, drop the line :confuse:
I just found out that my insurance policy (Geico) includes a "mechanical breakdown" warranty for 7 years, 100k, with a $250 dedutible, for $56/year.
I've never heard of an insurance company offering this. Is it legit? Does anyone have experience with this?
Thanks
Dennis
Either get factory backed or nothing, I think.
Dennis
Almost none of these plans covers routine maintainence on the car. You are correct, getting the oil changed regularly and following the manufactures suggested service (as in your owner's manual) is the best thing to prevent failures.
All that said, if you are planning on keeping the car long-term a factory backed warranty (GMPP?) is something to think about. High labor and parts costs mean about anything will be expensive to repair. You just have to look at the coverage and the cost and decide if it is right for you or not. Some folks just like the peace of mind they get - even if they "lose money" on the coverage. For sure, if you decide to buy hunt around online for the best price - and only get something factory backed.
The 04 Ion is only "good", so says CR. Strange that the 03 is only "fair" while the 05 is "poor". So your 04 is right in the middle of those years and does a bit better. Body Integrity, Suspension, and Electrical System are shown as the trouble spots. Of those, the first 2 are not likely to be covered under an extended warranty.
Dennis
Out of warranty, they can be a very expensive nightmare. Even if you go non-dealer the parts will eat you up.
Other than CPO BMW has no factory backed extended warranty plan. So you are stuck with whatever your local dealer will sell you (and hopefully stand behind) or nothing.
Your E46 3 series is about as good as it gets for BMW in terms of reliability. That is the 5th year of that design and most of the kinks were worked out. If you plan on keeping and driving it, I would just sock away some money each month for the repairs down the road - but it is a lot less risk than a 5 series or 7 series.
Dennis
To depend on them to pay up for breakdowns would be scary for me as well. I guess the high $250 deductible is what makes the cheap price possible.
Dennis
The kicker? They socked it, I mean sold it, to her for $1518.00. :mad:
AAAARRRGGGHHH!!
I wish she'd called me last August when she received that postcard, I could have showed her where to 'file it'.
She needs a service contract like a hole-in-her-head. She drives very little, has had few troubles with the car, her Warranty expires in the fall, and chances are good that my SM would take care of any trouble she has after that, for as long as he can. He has a soft spot for lil ole ladies. :P
I paid $1500.00 for this worthless insurance policy, because when you think about this, your vehicle gets wet every time it rains or you wash yout car. WARRANTY VOID. WASTE OF MONEY. The transmission cost me $2600.00. Thank you Warranty Direct!!!!
Here I go - I purchased an extended warranty and never used it. I have all the documentation along with the signature from dealer and myself to get my money back if I do not use it, which I have not. It is 7 yr. or 100,000 mile.
Now, I go to the dealer to get what is called " Guaranteed Price Refund". Dealer/Finance Manager both said good luck. API went bankrupted and your not getting any money at all.
I have a Honda CRV 2000 - love my car.
What can I do? Please help.
First, write to the dealership owner and provide copies of your warranty with your letter. Keep it positive and ask for their assistance. When that doesn't work (99% chance it won't), write to Honda USA. Let Honda know how you like the CRV, but detest the dealership due to this circumstance. (Provide copies of the documentation AND the letter to the owner.) Tell Honda that although they have a great product, you don't trust this dealership! Tell them that this Honda dealer has poisoned your ownership experience and that you're having trouble placing trust in other Honda dealerships. Ask for their help to regain faith in Honda and it's dealerships.
I know, it sounds kind of hokey, but you might just get what you want out of the deal. If not, you at least place a mark against the dealership for not assisting you. Good luck!
First, write to the dealership owner and provide copies of your warranty with your letter. Keep it positive and ask for their assistance. When that doesn't work (99% chance it won't), write to Honda USA. Let Honda know how you like the CRV, but detest the dealership due to this circumstance. (Provide copies of the documentation AND the letter to the owner.) Tell Honda that although they have a great product, you don't trust this dealership! Tell them that this Honda dealer has poisoned your ownership experience and that you're having trouble placing trust in other Honda dealerships. Ask for their help to regain faith in Honda and it's dealerships.
I know, it sounds kind of hokey, but you might just get what you want out of the deal. If not, you at least place a mark against the dealership for not assisting you. Good luck!
well, I decided to buy an ext' warranty from GMPP, I have not been done with it yet though. have a good weekend.
check out:
http://www.gmoutlet.com
Again, I don't know if this was the case with your EW. IMO, the only reason they would refuse to do anything would be if the refund agreement was a clause in the EW, making the bankrupt company responsible for the refund. Now, if the Refund Agreement was with the dealership, I would think it's their obligation and the EW company's inability to pay is irrelevant. That doesn't mean that they wouldn't use it as an excuse not to refund you - wrong, unethical and mean, but quite possible. And then, if the Refund Agreement was issued on behalf of a different company (as in my case), you would contact them, and EW Company's demise is even more irrelevant.
I hope this helps. Do write if you need more details.
I took another look at the pricing setup at GMOUTLET. It is a little different that it was when I bought the GMPP in 2004. At that time the months and mileage went back to the in service date and mileage. Now, if you buy a 60 month and 75K mile plan, it starts from todays date and mileage. There are 3 pricing schedules...New - including less than 12 months and 12000 age and mileage, over 12 & 12k but less than 24 & 24K then over 24 & 24 while still covered by factory warranty. The plan purchased as NEW or less that 12 & 12K is the least expensive... So, there might not be a great rush to purchase...as long as you are under the factory warranty, you should be able to purchase.
they sent the below information after i ask them. just in case people in here better take a look at it.
Price Class 1 for 2004 to 2008 Used Vehicle with 0 to 24,000 Miles on Odometer
*Note: Coverage starts on today's date & current odometer reading, NOT on "Original In-Service Date" when vehicle was new. . Details
Used Vehicle Major Guard Class 1
$0 DEDUCTIBLE
$100 DEDUCTIBLE
$200 DEDUCTIBLE
2004 to 2008 Models
List Price / Sale Price
List Price / Sale Price
List Price / Sale Price
12 mo / 12,000 miles
$500.00 / $450.00
$460.00 / $430.00
$430.00 / $415.00
12 mo / 15,000 miles
$530.00 / $465.00
$480.00 / $440.00
$440.00 / $420.00
12 mo / 18,000 miles
$560.00 / $480.00
$500.00 / $450.00
$460.00 / $430.00
12 mo / 20,000 miles
$580.00 / $490.00
$520.00 / $460.00
$480.00 / $440.00
24 mo / 24,000 miles
$620.00 / $510.00
$550.00 / $475.00
$500.00 / $450.00
24 mo / 30,000 miles
$660.00 / $530.00
$580.00 / $490.00
$530.00 / $465.00
24 mo / 36,000 miles
$710.00 / $555.00
$630.00 / $515.00
$560.00 / $480.00
24 mo / 40,000 miles
$850.00 / $625.00
$740.00 / $570.00
$650.00 / $525.00
24 mo / 50,000 miles
$1,190.00 / $795.00
$1,000.00 / $700.00
$870.00 / $635.00
36 mo / 24,000 miles
$840.00 / $620.00
$730.00 / $565.00
$640.00 / $520.00
36 mo / 30,000 miles
$890.00 / $645.00
$770.00 / $585.00
$680.00 / $540.00
36 mo / 36,000 miles
$950.00 / $675.00
$810.00 / $605.00
$710.00 / $555.00
36 mo / 45,000 miles
$1,150.00 / $775.00
$970.00 / $685.00
$840.00 / $620.00
36 mo / 54,000 miles
$1,415.00 / $940.00
$1,230.00 / $815.00
$1,040.00 / $720.00
36 mo / 60,000 miles
$1,540.00 / $1,065.00
$1,385.00 / $910.00
$1,200.00 / $800.00
36 mo / 75,000 miles
$1,855.00 / $1,380.00
$1,630.00 / $1,155.00
$1,465.00 / $990.00
48 mo / 32,000 miles
$920.00 / $660.00
$790.00 / $595.00
$700.00 / $550.00
48 mo / 40,000 miles
$1,080.00 / $740.00
$920.00 / $660.00
$800.00 / $600.00
48 mo / 48,000 miles
$1,415.00 / $940.00
$1,230.00 / $815.00
$1,040.00 / $720.00
48 mo / 60,000 miles
$1,585.00 / $1,110.00
$1,425.00 / $950.00
$1,250.00 / $825.00
48 mo / 72,000 miles
$1,865.00 / $1,390.00
$1,640.00 / $1,165.00
$1,475.00 / $1,000.00
60 mo / 40,000 miles
$1,370.00 / $895.00
$1,160.00 / $780.00
$990.00 / $695.00
60 mo / 50,000 miles
$1,535.00 / $1,060.00
$1,385.00 / $910.00
$1,190.00 / $795.00
60 mo / 60,000 miles
$1,915.00 / $1,440.00
$1,680.00 / $1,205.00
$1,505.00 / $1,030.00
60 mo / 75,000 miles
$2,285.00 / $1,810.00
$1,965.00 / $1,490.00
$1,730.00 / $1,255.00
72 mo / 48,000 miles
$1,935.00 / $1,460.00
$1,695.00 / $1,220.00
$1,520.00 / $1,045.00
72 mo / 60,000 miles
$2,640.00 / $2,165.00
$2,240.00 / $1,765.00
$1,950.00 / $1,475.00
72 mo / 72,000 miles
$3,130.00 / $2,655.00
$2,625.00 / $2,150.00
$2,250.00 / $1,775.00
84 mo / 56,000 miles
$2,245.00 / $1,770.00
$1,940.00 / $1,465.00
$1,710.00 / $1,235.00
84 mo / 70,000 miles
$3,210.00 / $2,735.00
$2,690.00 / $2,215.00
$2,300.00 / $1,825.00
Thats the norm when you are buying a used car service contract. New car warranties start on the ISD (in service date)
That used to be the case for GM plans...no longer the case. Here are the current answers from the GM site.
When does a GM Protection Plan begin?
The term and mileage of coverage is calculated from the date of contract purchase and the current odometer mileage on the vehicle. There are two forms of pricing available: New and Used. "New" consists of any vehicle that has been in service up to 12 months AND up to 12,000 miles on the odometer. "Used" is any vehicle that has been in service for more than 12 months OR more than 12,000 miles on the odometer.
When does a GM Protection Plan end?
Vehicle service contracts purchased on all vehicles end at the time or mileage selected.
All vehicle service contracts and Smart Care vehicle maintenance contracts end at the time or mileage selected (whichever comes first) calculated from the date of contract purchase and odometer mileage at time of contract purchase. For example, a 24,000-mile plan, purchased for a vehicle with 40,000 miles, will end when the odometer reaches 64,000 miles (unless the time period expires first).
But as soon as you talk about getting lawyers involved, all bets are off and they won't discuss anything with you. And unless you have something in writing that would hold up in court, which would be highly unlikely, you're stuck.
That would be in case of a claim. In that case I agree, it's all a matter of good will. But I believe we are talking about the Refund Agreement, which was signed by the dealer.
Just following general logic here: if Deblyn has a signed piece of paper from the dealer committing to the said Refund, I guess he has a pretty good chance in court.
It may also depend on any "fine print". Hopefully, there's none to negate what you were told. You may want to call or visit the website of your county court and obtain information on Small Claims actions.
I've enjoyed about a 90% success rate in Small Claims courts with customers that didn't want to pay their debts. About half of them paid when I completed the paperwork and sent them a copy of the form with a final demand letter. This is also worked on a large company that damage my vehicle, but refused to discuss their liability. In the letter, you must state a reasonable date that you expect full payment. I always made it NOON and included a line that states, that the paperwork would be filed that afternoon and that any court fees and future expenses with this matter would be added to their present balance.
Many people state that they have heard of people winning the small claims, but not collecting. I've gotten every penny and one judge awarded me $300 more than I asked for due to the customer being caught in several lies under oath. :shades: I loved that one! Another customer paid his bill in full at the office before I could get back from filing at the court house. I called and told him thank you, but he still owed my the $50 filing fee. He got nasty, so I told him that I'd see him in court to get that fee. He paid.
Finally, if you decide to go this route and must go to court. Be very professional. Address the judge. Ignore the other party. Let them do tell their side of the story (lie) without interrupting them. Just listen for their lie(s) where you can prove they're wrong. I've lost one case in 10 years and probably a dozen cases. "They always lie, but you must have written proof to prove it." Be civil and you'll impress the judge.
So I would read all the fine print before I decided on the next course of action.
Dennis
Some very good advice was posted, from some very competent posters here on Edmunds (a service mgr, finance mgr, EW guru and a businessman), so I don't think I have anything else to add, just to wish you luck.
From what we've heard so far, they definitely are on the hook, especially if they didn't leave themselves any back door by means of the fine print.