By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
The 2004 TL is a whole new ball game!
...but I agree, after driving the '04, it is on another level. I have only 1,000 miles on my '03 and I'm already looking to get into an '04.
I think I got a very good deal on it, $33,075 + destination. I bought it at Paragon Acura in Long Island City and it was a very pleasant transaction. I had gotten a price quote from them on the internet first. I got a decent trade-in on my Accord, and the nice part of doing both transactions there is that I can save on some sales tax by deducting my trade-in price from the sale price. The salesman was very low-key and didn't try to push anything on me. He had a thorough knowledge of the car and went over all the features.
I have to wait a month for delivery and this is going to be a very long wait. I want to drive it NOW!!!
The deal that geobert03 got on his non-NAVI car was great, but it is in no way indicative of how well you can do on NAVI version with Radley. Every dealer in DC area seems to be flooded with non-navi TLs and are trying to get rid of them, because the demand for navigation is so high, and because it's the end of the year.
Given the they have my $1000 non-refundable deposit (If the car is so hot, why do they need a $1000 deposit?), I'm at a lose what to do. Do I just eat the "offer" they're selling or is there anything I can use for leverage or at least get something from the dealer?
I am trying to push this deal to the end of the month to see if there is any leverage on my side into threatening to push the deal into the next Month/Year.
Any advice out there?
Also, when putting money down, never sign their form contract. You have to specify that if certain things don't happen or prices are changed, you have the right to cancel your order and get your deposit back.
I think you should get your car and sell your car on your own and learn from this experience.
As far as your trade, it's worth nothing. If the KBB trade in is $1,800 and there is a damage requiring panel replacement, the car is worth ZERO!
On NAVI, you either accept $500-600 off at DC dealership, or you go to NJ for $1,500-$2,000 off. I got $1,500 off and so did all the people that I refered there, but the first person who posted about Montclaire Acura got $2,000 off (it was probably a one-time deal). Good luck.
1. KBB trade-in value is $1,800. What this means is that you're likely to get around $1,200-1,500 from the dealer.
2. There is a damage to the car that requires replacement of the rear quarter panel. Such repairs cost $1,000-$3,000 depending on the car. Dealer would have to make this repair; unlike in a private transaction, reputable dealer will never try to sell a car with significant visible damage.
Hence the value of that PARTICULAR trade-in is big zero.
Bellevue ) and the same story applied everywhere...if you want a new TL with NAV, you order as there are very few if any on the lots and most coming in have been pre ordered. Bellevue quoted me a one month wait with a $1000 deposit for the color I wanted. Seattle Acura had one coming in two days so I bought there. I purchased my previous 2000 TL from Bellevue and had a hassle with the used car guy also. I traded an immaculate Legend and he wanted to low ball me. This time I was trading an immaculate 2000 TL with NAV which I bought from them and they still wanted to low ball me. I told them to take a hike and went to Seattle Acura. The 2000 TL I traded is on their lot as an ACURA Certified Used Car and they didn't have to touch it. Unfortunately it is a case of supply and demand here. If you want a new TL with NAV now, you will have to pay MSRP.
Now about getting your deposit back. Unless the Uniform Commercial Code has been changed, the consumer has 72 hours to back out of any retail agreement with no stipulations. It doesn't matter what you signed. Threaten them with legal action and see what happens. They could not have "ordered" your car as they get an allocation from Acura and the car is coming whether you "order" it or not. The salesman has a list of the cars and basically puts your name down against the car that is already on order. Their $1000 deposit only "guarantees" that they won't sell it out from under you.
Your used car is the problem in this deal and since it is obvious that it was a condition of the agreement to purchase then you never had a deal since you never agreed to the trade value.
Don't fool around with these morons anymore. Get your money back and go elsewhere. I am guessing you will have a problem trading a damaged vehicle on a TL with NAV as they are in demand due to the short supply. That's economics 101 and the dealer has leverage right now. Three or for months from now the story will change.
I love the car by the way.
To avoid repeating everything the lease forum will teach you, lez just say that, in addition to the residual value, you'll need 2 other pieces of info (capitalized cost (the price you would have paid if you bought the car, as well as the money factor (the interest you'll be paying the bank to lease the car). Since you didn't provide either, I will assume this:
1. $31,100 capitalized value. (the price I bought my car - about $850 over invoice which is not that spectacular these days.)
2. moneyfactor of .00215 (should have be honda finance's rate in Nov.) (which translates to about a 5.16% interest rate - nothing smashing at all either).
Given these assumptions (and not taking into account your downpayment which should lower the monthly payments further), you should be paying no more than about $425/month on a non Nav TL. of course, if there's sales tax in your state, multiply this amount 1.xx to get the more accurate figure (e.g. 8% tax on $425 is about $34).
A $500 monthly payment (excluding tax), means that the dealer is basically charging you MSRP for the vehicle (which imho, is one big screwjob when the non navs can be had for a few hundred bucks above invoice - unless you live in the cornfields or hawaii, that is).
The bottomline is, you should negotiate the price, then subsequently start talking about hte lease terms.
d
p.s. that $2000 'downpayment' may include Tax/title/licence, $550 acquisition fee (standard honda lease fee), security deposit equal to 1st month (i.e. $500) + a few miscellaneous stuff, leaving you less than a grand that actually reduces your capitalized cost
Good luck.
If you don't go through with the purchase, they should be able to refund the deposit and have other buyers ready to take your place immediately.
It would be different if they were "special ordering" a bizarre combination of options and colors that would be difficult to sell to anyone else and were taking a risk that they would get stuck with the vehicle.
TL Auto-Non-Navi: 31,255
Destination: 545
Wing Spoiler, Window Tint, and Wheel locks: 600
Trade ('96 Pontiac Sunfire, 85K miles): 2175
Sales Tax: 2448
License Fee: 564
Doc Fee: 249
Tire fee: 5
Out the door: $33,491
What I did: Checked inventories at my 3 local dealers on the web. Went to the closest from home and told them to look at this discussion for the type of deal I wanted. He looked up the site, went through some and made an offer. Took about 2 hours to grind down a ways and then walked out. Drove to the other two dealers and showed them the offer. First said they couldn't match or beat it, the second did. Went back and forth with the final two dealerships by phone until one said they couldn't go any lower. I really don't think it helped to buy on 12/31 as best I could tell (contrary to what I thought going into all of this) so you should be able to do similar or better. Good luck! Great car!
Anthracite/Ebony/AT/NAV (incl trunk tray and floor mats): $33995
Underbody spoiler(s), deck lid, body side moldings, moon roof visor: $2167
Trade: (94 Grand Cherokee) $2250
Doc Fee: $20
Also bought the extended warranty (7yr/100k mi). They orginally asked soemthing like $1700 for it, but I showed them an online price of $1125 from curry acura and they matched it.
This forum was invaluable in helping me negotiate what I thought was an excellent deal on a awesome car. Thanks everyone!
Gotta go back to reading the manuals now and drooling over the car.... :-)
I purchased at Bridgewater Acura (Bridgewater, NJ) and it was the easiest and most hassle free automobile purchase I have ever done. Everyone there was extremely courteous and professional and I never felt any kind of pressure. On the day I purchased (Nov. 29), there was a non-navi model on the lot that I could have gotten for $1630 off MSRP. I decided to treat myself to the navigation even though it would have to be ordered. In spite of the the navi's being in such demand, I still got $1250 off MSRP with wheel locks, trunk tray, splash guards, and first oil change thrown in. If anyone wants more dealer info, just email me as I am not sure if I can post more info here. Darn, I still have this grin!
Today was a nice way to end a year. I want to wish everybody a very Happy New Year and please let's all party safely!
The choices are extremelly limited and prices are high. Out of about 30-40 DVD-A or DTS disks at the local BestBuy, I really wanted just one. It was Eagles live Hell Freezes Over, but it was $22. I passed. I don't pay more than $8 for any CD.
Silver ext/Ebony int
Auto-Non-Navi (include floor mat/wheel lock/trunk tray AND destination): 30,950
Doc Fee: 45
Sales Tax: 2402
License Fee: 247
Tire fee: 5
Out the door: $33,650
What I did: Find a list of all dealers in Southern California and arrange in increasing distance from home. Start calling dealer from nearest to farthest and get quotes. Start with cardirect.com price and start having dealers beat it. Make sure at least one dealer faxes their offer in hard copy to your home. Then grab that and start visiting the 3 or 4 dealers with the lowest offers on phone, and see if anyone is willing to beat the others' prices. Eventually I found a price that no one is wiling to beat, and bought from that dealer. Started with calling 10 dealers and visited only two dealers. I've done enough research online that by the time I get to the dealer I only needed to make sure that I like the ext/int colors.
What is the Wing Spoiler? Is this the spoiler located above the truck? At any rate, thanks for your info and others and guess you are a happy camper now. Happy New Year.
2. The actual waiting times for a SPECIFIC color are not as long as you might've been lead to believe. Because cars come in and people who have deposits down sometimes refuse to pay, cars come up for immediate or short-term availability all the time. That's because many people have refundable deposits with more than one dealership.
3. Even if the best you can do in CA is $500 off MSRP (you can get that from ANY dealer) and the best you can do in NJ is $2,000 off MSRP, it's probably not worth your while to come to NJ. Driving the car accross the US will cost you roughly a $1,000 in depreciation. Your airline ticket is going to be at least $300 and you're going to loose about a week of time doing this. It's as much hassle as European Delivery programs of Volvo and BMW, but you save many thousands on those.
The longer you wait, the better the deals will get, but also the supply will be diminished, making the color combo you want possibly harder to find. But since non-nav TLs predominate what is being built, that probably won't be an issue for you.
Just picked up my nav tl yesterday....loving it!
Good luck.
Date bought:
Location/Area:
Dealer Name:
Price (before any taxes):
Options:
Color Combo:
Notes:
??