I have a 2000 Lincoln LS with a 3.9L V8 that has an intermittent overheat indication. I’m calling an indication problem because it seems like a faulty sensor or connection. It only happens under the following conditions:
1. When the car is driven and sits outside for a few hours when it 90 degrees or above. 2. The temperature indicator will read red line or near red line. 3. Anunciator will display engine overheat. 4. The temperature indicator will immediately return to half scale after a few miles. 5. This has happened during normal freeway and city driving. 6. Turning off the A/C (car does this for you) or turning on the heater full does not change the indication.
I took it into the shop for warranty work, and they couldn’t find any problems so they changed thermostat and cylinder head temperature sensor. Today it happened but the check engine icon light came on, so I pulled into a parking lot and checked the coolant level, good, and started the engine and the temperature was normal half scale. The check engine light stayed on. I checked the code and it’s ‘P1299’, Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Detected Engine Overheating Condition. Could this be a problem with the ECU? Dave – ke4gov
Could be a bad sensor wire, but the most likely culprit is an air bubble trapped in the cooling system. At temp the air bubble contains superheated steam and when that hits the sensor it thinks it's overheating. When the air bubble passes it goes back to normal. The LS has a more complicated than usual bleeding process (check the owner's manual or have the dealer do it).
hi, i have the exact same problem. i don't know if the noise is the hydraulic pump of the fan but it has gotten louder over the weeks. i was told it could be the fan or there may be a way to adjust the pump but not sure.
Has anyone experienced your car stalling out while driving in the rain? This has happened to me 4 times. Each time I had been driving for an hour or more in rain before it happened. The first 2 times I didn't associate it with the rain. By the time it gets towed to a dealership, they can't find anything that caused it (of course it's dry by then). They're not willing to get out on the road and drive in the rain for an hour or two. I have to get it back tomorrow and am now fearful I will break down on my long treck home, I live in South Florida, it rains EVERYDAY. Thanks for any help.
Reading these posts with these major problems owners are having is unbelievable. CR says reliability is now much worse than average. Almost bought one but instead purchased a Millenia S. Virtually no problems at 93K. When I saw Ford was giving 0% for 72 months took another look but no way.
I like to tell people that coming to a Problems thread and drawing conclusions about a car is like going to the ER room and drawing conclusions about the human race.
I sold the car because no one could figure it out for 70,000 miles. It gets progressively worse over time. I am the type of person who likes it to be perfectly quiet in the interior of the car. Call me crazy. I had nothing but problems with it.
Hello I'm new to the forum and after reading for a while some of you had or still have problems with a burning smell. I too have the same problem and also have oil in the spark plugs, my car is still running just fine but i know that eventually it won't. My question is how hard or expensive would it be too fix that problem.
You have to replace the valve cover gaskets and possibly some of the coils (the oil damages them over time). For a DIYer with the right tools it's probably a 2-4 hour job.
I have a 2000 LS v8, and one of the rear windows won't go up. It's almost like the window is off the track or something. Could it be the modulator or the motor? How much do these cost? Thanks!
It's the regulator. You can buy the regulator by itself now for about $30 and you reuse the existing motor. You can get them from Bill Jenkins at Team Ford in Las Vegas if you can't find them locally. They may try to sell you the one with the motor but you don't need it. Instructions are included.
Takes about 2 hours to do it the first time. The only hard part is getting the pin back in the plug that holds the window to the regulator. I'd buy 2 regulators - the other side is likely to fail at some point. You can prevent failure by using the windows more often. The problem is over time the window sticks to the weatherstripping which puts stress on the regulator causing it to fail.
The check engine light just came on while driving my 1997 3.0 CL. It has 99,000 miles and I'm planning to drive it for at least another 100k miles. The owner's manual tells me that it may be problem with the emission control sensor. I don't want to take it to the dealer because I've been ripped off in the past. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks
P.S. At the suggestion of another member, I had the computer hooked up to my Acura at Giant Tire in Miami. The cumputer showed code had the computer hooked up to my CL at Giant Tire in Miami. Result: Code PO401, Insufficient EGR flow detected. It can be corrected at the dealer for over $1000. Or maybe replace the catalytic converter for a cheaper price. The mechanic said that if the car is running good wait until you detect any problem then look for a solution. Mr Shiftright doesn't think that ignoring a check engine light is a good idea. I may have to pay a visit to the dealer...scary.
Acura dealers are capable of 'ripping off' the owner too
Yes, but Acura owners would never believe it or admit it. It's amazing how much Honda and Toyota owners will dismiss as normal (tranny failures, e.g.) while berating domestic brands for less serious problems.
i have a '00 lincoln ls with v6 it has a check engine light on and the air bag light blinks 3 times then pauses 2 times then solid. the car hesitates when you decelerate and then reaccelerate. and the car cuts off in park after a few minutes. i have replace the O2 sensors, air idle sensor, throttle position sensor and the egr valve. does any one have any idea what could be wrong. The cars has 97,000 miles on it. It also have a bad oil leak coming from somewhere. thanks for any help.
Did you ever think to pull the code before you started randomly replacing components? If you don't have a scan tool you can take it to Autozone and they'll pull the code for free. You can get code descriptions online - just do a google search.
If you're leaking oil it's probably the valve cover gaskets, which will fill up the spark plug wells with oil and ruin the COPs. If the CEL code is a misfire it's almost guaranteed that's the problem.
it took work inside the steering wheel, but was fixed, to the tune of ~$300.
Unless, of course, the lying b*****ds took three minutes to do the harness fix & wrote it up otherwise.
This was the same outfit that tried to give me a flawed windshield that didn't even have the wiper defrosters in it. Not that I need them here, but it's interesting to see how stupid the Lincoln service people think their customers are.
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Comments
Thanks
1. When the car is driven and sits outside for a few hours when it 90 degrees or above.
2. The temperature indicator will read red line or near red line.
3. Anunciator will display engine overheat.
4. The temperature indicator will immediately return to half scale after a few miles.
5. This has happened during normal freeway and city driving.
6. Turning off the A/C (car does this for you) or turning on the heater full does not change the indication.
I took it into the shop for warranty work, and they couldn’t find any problems so they changed thermostat and cylinder head temperature sensor.
Today it happened but the check engine icon light came on, so I pulled into a parking lot and checked the coolant level, good, and started the engine and the temperature was normal half scale. The check engine light stayed on. I checked the code and it’s ‘P1299’, Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Detected Engine Overheating Condition.
Could this be a problem with the ECU?
Dave – ke4gov
have u figured it out?
thx ken
thx ken
CR says reliability is now much worse than average. Almost bought one but instead purchased a Millenia S. Virtually no problems at 93K. When I saw Ford was giving 0% for 72 months took another look but no way.
Takes about 2 hours to do it the first time. The only hard part is getting the pin back in the plug that holds the window to the regulator. I'd buy 2 regulators - the other side is likely to fail at some point. You can prevent failure by using the windows more often. The problem is over time the window sticks to the weatherstripping which puts stress on the regulator causing it to fail.
P.S. At the suggestion of another member, I had the computer hooked up to my Acura at Giant Tire in Miami. The cumputer showed code had the computer hooked up to my CL at Giant Tire in Miami. Result: Code PO401, Insufficient EGR flow detected. It can be corrected at the dealer for over $1000. Or maybe replace the catalytic converter for a cheaper price. The mechanic said that if the car is running good wait until you detect any problem then look for a solution. Mr Shiftright doesn't think that ignoring a check engine light is a good idea. I may have to pay a visit to the dealer...scary.
futbol1
OBDII Code PO401
PS: And Acura dealers are capable of 'ripping off' the owner too I guess.
Yes, but Acura owners would never believe it or admit it. It's amazing how much Honda and Toyota owners will dismiss as normal (tranny failures, e.g.) while berating domestic brands for less serious problems.
If you're leaking oil it's probably the valve cover gaskets, which will fill up the spark plug wells with oil and ruin the COPs. If the CEL code is a misfire it's almost guaranteed that's the problem.
I am having the exact same problem that you described and Im curious if your problem was corrected and how. I look forward to your response.
Brock
Unless, of course, the lying b*****ds took three minutes to do the harness fix & wrote it up otherwise.
This was the same outfit that tried to give me a flawed windshield that didn't even have the wiper defrosters in it. Not that I need them here, but it's interesting to see how stupid the Lincoln service people think their customers are.
They're usually right, but not this time.
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