Lincoln LS: Problems & Solutions

akirby

I've ordered successfully from Bill Jenkins at Signature L/M in Las Vegas, NV. Or from Torrie at FordPartsNetwork.com. Best prices and great customer service.

If you really want to soften the ride you can switch to the 16" OEM wheels. You can probably pick up a set off Ebay relatively cheap. And the 16" tires are usually cheaper and you have more choices. That plus the non-sport shocks should help quite a bit. I know a couple of people who've done it.

riotex

I dont want to take away that sport look. What's the difference from the European ride and the sport ride? Do you know of the LS having this problem?

akirby

European is firmer than Sport. Base is softer than sport. For a softer ride you want the Base shocks. You didn't say if you have a V6 or V8 so here are both part numbers:

V8:

Base Front: 1W4Z 18124-BA
Base Rear: XW4Z 18125-AA

V6:

Base Front: 1W4Z 18124-AA
Base Rear: XW4Z 18125-AA

Look for tires that have a high ride comfort rating at tirerack.com and keep them inflated to 30-32 psi. That's the best you can do.

riotex

Have you heard of this problem w/ the LS?

akirby

All cars have vibration issues at some point. It's usually the tires. Did it change when you changed the tires? What if you swap the wheels front to rear? Does it go away or is it different?

Find a shop with a hunter road force balancer (GP-9000 IIRC) and have the wheels rebalanced. A good shop will swap tires and wheels and mounting points to get the wheels as balanced as humanly possible. If that doesn't fix it, then have the driveshafts checked - they may be out of balance.

While I don't think it would cause a vibration, the sway bar bushings have been known to go bad prematurely and cause a clunking sound.

riotex

I did have the stabilizer bar replaced last week.

lateralg

These are the service part numbers of the Base V8 shocks for the 2003 LS.

Fronts: 3W4Z 18124 BA
Rears: 3W4Z 18125 AA

I installed these on my '03 Premium Sport V8 and achieved a major reduction in ride harshness.

Allen: What model year are you quoting?

akirby

He had a 2000 so I was quoting the 2000 - 2002 part numbers. I think.

jmac1

2000 v8 81k, Passing accel.speed causes high rpm,no downshift ,stall, sometimes will restart while moving other times will have to pull over , It might take a few trys to restart the car. Without a quick acceleration I don't notice any other symptoms. Is this Fuel or trans? can you help

akirby

If there's no check engine light then I think the transmission is the most likely suspect. Has the fluid ever been changed? If not, have the dealer change it and check the fluid level and change the fuel filter while they're at it. Do not go to jiffy lube. The dealer has a fluid exchanger and it needs to be done in a very clean environment , plus there is a special procedure to check the fluid level. There is no dipstick like most other automatics.

The other possibility is one or more bad COPS (coil on plug). These have been known to go out but don't normally cause the high rpm and no downshift symptoms.

apollo24

I have a 2000 v8 sport pkg. I had the car since '99 and was probably one of first in NYC with it. Excluding minor problems(rear window, disc changer,wet headlights) the car in the first 50k miles was incredible. Immediatley after end of warranty problems began. I needed a new tranny @ 60k. Repalced coils and valve cover gaskets @63k. I respect what i own, especially my car, so it was very well serviced and maintained. My recent problems is that wether its wet or dry outside the "check charging system" prompt comes on. No aftermkt hookups so never messed w/ originals on any part of car. It's been happening for 6 months with me not changing alternator. I had it checked by dealer and private mechanic and they say its fine. Prompt comes then 1 min later the red battery signal on dash goes away. Sometimes it's relentless throughout drive sometimes it dissappears for weeks.Batt is 1 year old and i scraped terminals already. The next thing is the car runs hot. It goes three qtrs up only when stuck in stop n go NYC traffic then goes away once i pick up speed. Changed thermostat and have checked fan many times and it seems to be working just fine. Very confused there. Hoping its not electrical. Next is even though my dealer "supposedly" replaced valve gaskets and some coils 10k miles ago the same lack of power and hesitation has started again w/ no check engine light on. It seems to skip a beat at a redlight stop and hesitation between 40-60mph. I'm a do it youself guy but definitly not a mechanic. Bad experiences w/ dealerships in local area so thanx in advance for any help on how to take care of problems on my own. Love this car even w/ the sudden onslaught of problems so would love to fix and move on. Thanx.... Apollo

jomer

My "00 LS air bag warning light has recently come on. It blinks a few times then remains on for the entire ride.. My owners manual says got directly to dealer do not stop at go. Question..does this indicator mean my air bags may fail to deploy or does it mean they may accidentally deploy and is there anything I can do short of the dealer trip..thanks
Also..any suggestions on cleaning my alpine glove box cd changer...it skips more than I like

akirby

It means there's a malfunction and you need to get it back to the dealer or a competent mechanic ASAP, just like the manual says.

ashford1

Is there a way to change my rear tail lights and brake lamps without having to carry it to the dealer. I tried to access the rear panel myself, but didn't see a way to change it myself. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks :confuse:

akirby

Peel back the trunk liner and remove the 3 nuts holding the taillight assembly.

ashford1

Thanks, I will try it this afternoon.

apollo24

anyone have the mysterious check charging system thing pop up from timt to time w/ a good alternator and battery?

gkarg

As far as your "skipping a beat" with the engine. That definitely sounds like a bad C.O.P. I'm pretty sure that they are fairly easy to access on the V-8. You could buy one and swap them out one at a time with the good one - until you eliminate the miss. Its a long process but should work. (Of course, unless 2 are bad.) They seem to easily crap out with moisture.

I really don't know what to think on the charging system warning. Maybe you could take it to an Advanced Auto Parts type store - where they scan the computer for codes for free. It may give you the cause. My guess would be something to do with the alternator, since it is the heart of the charging system.

apollo24

thanx for your reply. I had the valve cover gaskets replaced about 9-10 months ago with some coils replaced. i have a very bad relationship w/ local dealers so don't even want to take the car back there even if its still warrantied w/ the last job they did. VERY VERY unprofessional. I want to check the coils to see if they are covered in oil. Do you think there is a chance that the gaskets leaked again to cause the bad coils or is there a good chance that they are good gaskets but for some reason coils went bad. check engine light just came on too. first time since gasket problem. As for the check charging system it seems i figured it out.One of my tail lamp casings slowly accumilate water so the break light always goes out. the socket were you plug it in is black so it seems its a bad socket even though it works for a month or two before blowing. if anyone is interested or has same problem i'll give the instructions on what i did any help w/ the valve cover or coil problem as well as the strange over heating problem willbe greatly appreciated. THANX IN ADVANCE

craig21

I just got the DTC code from Autozone and it reads P0411. I looked it up in Alldata and it says to see P1411. P1411 states that the secondary air injection system does not detect the presence of air in the exhaust when introduced by the secondary air injection system. The possible causes are the electric AIR pump, hose from AIR pump leak, AIR bypass solenoid leak/blocked, hose from AIR pump blocked or AIR bypass solenoid stuck open/closed. Diagnostic aides - in order to test the AIR pump, it must be capable of driving the HO2S lean. What does all that mean and how can I check it? Thanks.

akirby

I think it means you need to take it to a dealer or mechanic.

hotrodderiam

I have the same problem. I have taken the car to the local Lincoln Dealer to have the trans flushed and serviced, and I have changed the fuel filter ( inside the drivers fender well if anyone is looking for it). I'm in the process of checking the complete fuel system. If it was a misfire or a bad coilpack it will give a code.

jrogers3

I have a 2003 V8 that constantly reaks of gear oil, I had some seals replaced, but I still smell it.

bobham05

I have an 05 Lincoln LS, it's my third one. They keep making me offers that I can't refuse.
When listening to AM radio the tone shifts from bass to treble and slowly back again. If I cycle to FM1, FM2, CD and then AM it is OK again. The problem seems to be location related as it happens in the same general locations. The funny thing about this is that my girl friend has an 04 Aviator that does the same thing. I just wasn't aware of the circumstances until I got my 05 and discovered the location sensitivity.
I know, don't listen to AM. I usually listen to CD's or FM but the evening talk shows have me hooked.
Has anyone else experienced this problem? :confuse:

garsarno

My '04 does the same thing. No problems on FM, CD or Sirius. Might be signal strength or maybe AM Stereo station.

yahmaine

I have a 2000 as well and was having the same problem. It would overheat sometimes and then other times it would not. When I took it in to the dealership they told me my resavoir tank was cracked. I didi notice some leakage every now and again.

yahmaine

I have the same problem. I don't know what I should do. My car stalls on me sometimes and the rpm shoot up to about 4000 on acceleration then fall back down or the car may cut off. I took it back to the dealer and the first time the changed to fuel pump and said that should fix the problem. When I got it back it started doing the same thing again. It jerks and feels as it wants to cut off but doesn't. Some times it would cut off and I would have to try three times to get it back started. Do you think that the trans needs flushing and filter changed? I don't want to take it back to the same dealer becuase their service sucks

Thanks

akirby

There are 2 fuel pumps - did they change both? Did they check the COPs (coil on plug)? Fuel filter?

Doubt it's the tranny (given the hard to start condition) but anything is possible - if you have more than 30,000 miles have the fluid changed and the level checked.

tireman1

I'm getting both banks lean code. i disconnected the MAF and got low code but no lean codes. Engine runs better without MAF. I tried to clean the MAF and tightened everything incase of vac leak. cleared codes with carchip and code comes right back after two trips. i understand there is a TSB on this problem, does anyone know where i can find it? thanks keith

aiuto

I have a 2000 LS V8 that needs both valve gaskets replaced and have a leak in the manifold. I have only 59k on the car. Yes it is out of warrantee. Are their any notices out on it? Thx

akirby

It's a known problem and I'm sure there are TSBs out on it, but that doesn't mean anything. Go back to your dealer and ask for an AWA (After Warranty Adjustment).

whitelight

i have a 00 ls with a a/c problem. i took it to the dealership and they now want to charge me 800 to put new a/c hoses on. i tried to find the part numbers to see if i can get it cheaper somewhere else, to see if i can put them in myself. does anyone know the part numbers of these hoses?

blitzwing

I had that problem a while back. The dealer was able to diagnose it quickly. It was the Idle Air Control Motor. The dealer replaced it and $330 later, the car was fine. I'd recommend trying a different dealer and suggest the IAC Motor. I hope this helps.

fr4nkie82

i got the car when it first came out(o4 lincoln LS)..... one month later problems started to appear..... from that day on, on rare days whenever i start my car the eng. seems to want to stall, even when i press the gas the car doesnt even move nor do my rpm's go up, its like i have my foot off the brake and letting the car roll... next my driver door always seems to make cracking noise somewhat like the glass bounce everytime i hit a bump.... 3rd off there are times when i press my gas and the car sounds like a loin and its fast, and there are times when i sounds like its chugging and the car runns like my old 92 chev....i also have my ETC breakdown 3times....im thinking my car has an eng problem but i dont know what.... plz if anyone can help me out please reply or talk to me on AIM sn "yogurt" thank you

tateos

I just bought the car - about 1,200 miles on it. The tranny seems make some sloppy shifts, especially the 2-3 shift. It's like the transmission starts to shift, pauses for a second, and then finally goes into th next gear. Does anyone know if this is "normal". I'm thinking that maybe they need to flash an update into the computer that controls the tranny or something?

Also, how do you check/replace the spark plugs on the V-6. It looks like the intake manifold covers them.

Thanks.

Richard in Phoenix

akirby

It is somewhat normal for the 2-3 shift to feel different. That's because it has to do 2 things at the same time - change the main gears and disengage the overdrive. 2nd in this tranny is really 1st plus overdrive. If it's really bad you might want to have it checked, though.

lateralg

I agree with Allen.

Also, "training" the transmission is likely to help. This involves getting the engine & transmission up to operating temperature, then make 10 or more of the shifts that have been troublesome.

The computer knows how long each shift SHOULD take, then compares this with actual. When it sees a difference, application pressures or timing are adjusted.

Since you have low mileage, it probably hasn't experienced enough 2-3 shifts.

Let us know how this works.

cdnpinhead

since I pointed out that the way to avoid automatic transmission issues with the LS, or any other car, is to have a manual. They're simpler, stronger & more fun to drive.

In fact, that's why I bought my LS, delivered almost exactly 5 years ago today. Delivered, you ask? Yes, delivered -- there was no way on God's earth one could be bought off the lot, at least if you wanted any selection -- when I was shopping, there were two manuals in the entire Phoenix metro area. Both were otherwise loaded and in colors I didn't care for.

Anyway, the LS was once (for about 20 minutes) considered a competitor to BMW & other serious sports sedans. Yeah, I know. . .that was then & this is now. The dealer cabal would sooner have drunk poison than stock manuals & support salespeople who could actually sell them against the competition.

They won. I lost.

I recently checked the trade-in value of my car. Buying (not leasing) an American car was a big leap of faith for me, especially in the first year. I can learn. I will not ever do it again.

Oh, by the way -- original clutch, 79K miles, no major service (one hydraulic cooling fan thing) of any kind, and second gear still makes me smile. . .a lot.

Enjoy your automatic transmissions. The rest of the car isn't bad, but I won't be having another.

Does anyone really believe FoMoCo is going to improve?

lateralg

You bet! And they don't need manual transmissions in order to do it.

maxadam

My 2003 LS6 has 36,000+ miles....and is on it's 5th set of tires. After 2000+ miles on each set, feathering on the outside edge of the front tires begins along with the noise it brings.
The dealer has aligned it 6 or 7 times, the last two with supposedly "Ford engineering" directives. It seems to be getting worse...the noise has started on the latest tires at 1000+ miles.
Anyone else had this problem.....the dealer says they have 3 just like it.

akirby

I see some things never change.

Hey Steve - what do you think of Audi's new 6 speed auto manual? It's 2 3 speed transmissions with electronic clutches on each one. They alternate gears so when you're in 1st the other tranny has already selected 2nd, so all it takes to shift is to disengage clutch 1 and engage clutch 2. It determines the "next gear" based on several factors. Can be shifted manually (without a clutch pedal) or automagically. Basically it's a better SMG. Best of both worlds?

cdnpinhead

Could be interesting, so long as it's stone reliable.

Partly, I like manual transmissions, but mostly I hate automatics. They fail regularly, and when they do, bring lots of money. About the only service a manual needs is clutch &/or throwout bearing replacement, plus a fluid change every 100K miles or so.

When the LS started having automatic transmission "issues" (that would be from about the first day/reflash requirement), combined with a dealer network that, let's say, "didn't always provide the appropriate service," you've got a situation that certainly didn't allow the LS to put its best foot forward. Every time I hear another plea for suggestions from a driver of an LS with an automatic that is acting strangely, fuel is added to my fire. However, I'm only responding to every hundredth one these days, and given the amount of traffic on these boards, this is probably the last time.

lateralg

I think we should put this in perspective.

The 5R55N/S has certainly had its share of calibration problems that could be considered failures to produce the intended result.

Also, mechanical failures of that box certainly don't fall in the category of "fail regularly". In fact, there are club members who have abused the daylights out of them, and they refuse to fail.

cdnpinhead

"failures to produce the intended result" is a better phrase, to be sure. Back when the Lincoln LS board was active on Edmunds, a huge percentage of the posts had to do with automatic transmission issues. Only a few mentioned outright failure requiring replacement or major overhauls.

The "fail regularly" comment in my post was in reference to automatics in general, not specifically the LS's.

"Back in the day" an automatic transmission routinely lasted the life of the car & the fluid was a "top-off only" proposition. The notion of changing it regularly at 30K intervals was unheard of. Of course, those were 2- or 3-speed boxes, occasionally 4. My put is that today's electronic 4-6 speed boxes with photo sensors & who knows what else inside are nowhere near as reliable. Most people are willing to make that tradeoff, partly because a majority of people who drive new cars in the LS's (original) price range (and above) lease -- whatever they've got, they don't have it for very long, and any repairs aren't on their own nickel.

I'm not.

herndon1

I have a starting problem with my 02. From talking to the dealer about my problem sounds like you have an ide contral valve problem. Hope this helps.

herndon1

i have taken my car to the dealer 3 times in 6 months with a starting problem-after the car runs for 20 mins or more it is slow starting(but always starts and run fine after) if it sits for more than 30-45 mins.but less than 4 hours- the computer never registers the problem-the dealer reprogramed it but nothing-cleaned the injectors and nothing-anyone got an idea that i can give them

petris

I Have the same problem with my "00 LS V8. About a month ago the Airbag warning light came on. I was out of town and told my wife to take it to the service. They replaced the wiring harness and it was OK. It cost me $480. Now last friday the warning light came on again. First blinking few times and now stays on.
I took it to the same service and told them that to check it again. This time they explained that computer says that the airbag need to be replaced. Estimate cost $800. I started to get pissed and asked them to show me the wiring harness they replaced last time which off course they did not want to do.
After reading this forum i realized that it is quite common problem with LS.
Did you got yours fixed and how much it cost?
I would like to know if anyone got this problem fixed otherwise than replacing the airbag? I got also this burning odor from time to times so valve cover gasget is propably leaking, could that cause this kind of electrical problem??
Otherwise I like this car and have 77000 miles on it.

akirby

It's unlikely the valve cover gaskets caused the airbag problem. IIRC the airbag problem is usually just the wiring harness. I've never heard of the airbag itself needing to be replaced, but anything is possible.

herndon1

I have an 02 LS V8 with the a very similar problem. The dealer has has mine 3 different times for a total of a week or more each time. I have been searching this site all day and it sounds like mine is a leaking injector. If you hear any thing please respond

jdell1

'03 LS V8 which has had the computer control module replaced, converter and is still shifting (1-2, 2-3) with a mind of its own. Normal driving (with A/C on, its sunny Florida) there is no throttle response for 1/4" pedal and a great deal of time. Smack it to force a downshift and its great. Dealership has checked three times and tells me its a software glitch with "drive by wire" and there is no fix. Mechanic agrees that idle is rough, shifts delayed and throttle response doesn't exist without downshift and 1/2 + throttle.
I bought the car but not buying the lack of fix. Anyone had the same?
JAck