Lincoln LS: Problems & Solutions

gunnersmate

Should be around 140 dollars at a lincoln dealer and buy into that 100k mile BS. IMHO it should be changed frequently, well every 30k +/- 5k miles. Unless you live in BFE don't pay 350 whatever your decision.

gunnersmate

Yep... this is how mine was done. I think this guy should call em' out on the carpet about trying to price gouge.

gunnersmate

Yeah don't take it personal. i have ran in to the same problem over different issues. These are good folks trying to protect what little value is left in this over engineered and under promoted automobile.

I hope that you will continue to visit this forum and share your ownership experiences both + and -.

gunnersmate

Statistics? This person is a statistic and I for one don't share your opinion on how and when these statistics would manifest themselves on the internet.

Most folks just aren't that cognizant of what goes on out here in cyberspace. maybe in 10 years they will be.

The truth is that the users on this forum frequent the other free and fee based forums so the pool of owners sharing information IMHO is shallow when compared to volume of LS's sold in the US and Canada since 1999. Statistically dealers see more LS's in a month than we as forum users own and know of if.

It is difficult enough to find an authoritative figure we can rely upon in the business sector without us charging that the dealers don't know what they are talking about without eveidence to back it up.

xwray

I only have about 12 K om my 2K manual so I'm nowhere near needing to change my plugs. However, I have a fear that the plugs may want to seize (aluminum and steel, doncha know) such that when I do need to change them they might pull the head threads right on out with them. What's the feelings by those that have changed their plugs - any tendancy to stick? Did the factory do a good job of applying an anti-seize compound on the plugs or did they save a penney and install them dry?

Any comments will be most welcome?

jeffandhebbie

I just want to thank you for your opinion, it means alot to me. I felt like i was being made a fool of, I myself am a Lincoln LS owner so I do Feel like a I am statistic, i understand that kirby may know alot about Lincoln Ls' but to say it is not common to him doesn't mean it doesn't happen, think about it, I have had my lincoln for over a year and just the other day i was here for the first time, think about all the other owners than don't come to a forum for help that just go to the dealers!

Thanks again
Hebbie

gunnersmate

Well welcome aboard! Passion can sometimes obfuscate the intentions of we humans.

Here are some things you may want to begin considering a useful resource.

The website of course. There are many threads dedicated to the LS here and you will find some useful tips here.

Autozone if you have one in your neighborhood can be very helpful. They can scan your LS's onboard computer when the Check engine light comes on and pull codes which will be useful when troubleshooting.

Fordpartsonline.com is a great source for ordering OEM parts at discount prices.

The owners manual is also very useful. No kidding!

There are other websites out there and I think your resourceful husband may have already stubled over 1 or 2 of them.

If you have to go into the dealer for repairs check to see if they are AAA approved. AAA will mediate problems if you are a member they can lean on the dealer a little harder but they will still try to remedy the problem if you are not.

If you have a credit card it can be helpful to pay for the service visits with it. VISA and MC have great powers. small disclaimer... I do not advocate incurring un-needed debt so use it wisely.

I have been stung in the past and quickly learned the unimpeachable powers the CC companies have when it comes to dispute resolution.

Well like the commerials say travel well.

akirby

I'm sorry if I overreacted, but my reasoning was that we have had several thousand LS owners between the various forums over the last 5 years and you would think if this was a 'common' problem that one or two other people would have posted it in that timeframe. I wasn't trying to make anyone seem foolish or diminish the problem you experienced and it wasn't my personal knowledge I was referencing but the collective input from all the owners over the years. I didn't want other people to get the impression that this happens a lot based on a single comment from one dealer. Gosh knows we have enough common problems that have been widely reported (valve cover gaskets, window regulators, seat heaters, COPS, etc.).

That said, maybe this is a new problem that's just now starting to happen as the hoses start to age, so we should be on the lookout for any more occurrences.

Fair enough?

gkarg

I changed mine at 50K and it went rather smoothly. The biggest problem I had was dealing with the intake manifold on the V6.

My main motive was exactly your concern. My mechanic said he highly recommended changing them because if they do seize - it is new engine time and he had replaced a few at the Ford Garages he had worked for years.

akirby

Sounds like 50K is recommended, 75K is probably ok but 100K is asking for trouble.

dbuseman

On a 2000 LS V8 with 95,000 miles, the check engine light has been on for a while and I am pretty certain one or more coils are bad since it feels like a 5 cylinder most of the time. The car hesitates when the pedal is pushed anymore than ever so slightly and also on hills. I have ordered the coils and am wondering how hard this is to do yourself. I'm no mechanical whiz but I do have a strong general knowledge of cars and motorcycles. The dealer wants $500 plus to fix that and a thermostat. I hate to pay the dealer for something I could figure out. Is it worth the trouble? Thanks in advance for any tips or specifics.

gunnersmate

if they are replacing all 8 and it is only 500 bux I think it is a bargin. The COPS are bout 60 dollars each although the labor is rather easy on this job when you factor in the fact that they are repairing an additional item I think you owe to yourself to take the time off and let someone else handle the job.

You can get the COPs for about 45 from FPO but when you add shipping and the thermostat repair you are still ahead letting them bust their knuckles for a few hours on this job.

If they are only doing one COP then flip them off and order your parts and do the job yourself if you have you own basic tools.

Go to autozone and get them to pull the code(s) and I or someone else will look it up for you before you get neck deep in the job

dbuseman

I'll pull the code asap. I have my own OBDII sensor. Thanks so much for the advice. I'll find out EXACTlY what they've given the estimate for.

gunnersmate

What scan tool do you have?

ezaircon4jc

If you're talking about the by-pass hose that comes out of the top of the w/p, where the thermostat lives, and has a 90º bend; yes, that is a "common" problem with the V6. Mine also blew ~53K miles. Seems the 90 was a weak point in the hose. That section was reinforced, and an updated hose was released. I would have done it myself, but I thought it was covered under my extended warranty. It wasn't, but the total bill, including a new t-stat, was ~$150. Worth it in my time alone! If it was the by-pass hose, and AutoZone's didn't have that reinforced section, it "may" fail again, soon. One thing I've learned over the years. The dealer may be more on some things, but there generally is a reason. Don't get me wrong, I buy plenty of parts from places like AutoZone. The "major" stuff I generally stick with the dealer.

As for the bad running. My vote is also an electrical leak. Water may be leaking down into the spark plug well, too.

eugeniy

Hello !

I have 2001 Jaguar S-Type 4.0, and my left front window regulator is broken. Wise people says that S-Type and LS regulators are the same. Original Jaguar regulator (XR816888) costs nearly about $500 :-[ ]... Does anybody know the Lincoln part number for this item ? There is no Lincoln dealer in radius 1000 mls, but I can order it by exactly known part number. Thank you very much !

eugeniy

I've created a new discussion group for this topic.

lrm

I have an '02 LS with the V-8 engine with about 32K. The problem I am having has to do with the engine rpm's dropping too low and slowing the car down. It feels like running into a pillow. It happens intermittently and the dealer has reprogrammed the computer but it still does it. More specifically, the problem occurs with I take my foot off the accelerator. The rpm's drop as expected, hold for a couple of seconds, then drop another few hundred for several seconds before junping back up. It's unsettling at best, especially on the highway, but occurs at lower speeds too.

The dealer can never seem to duplicate the problem. Anyone have any ideas about what to look for?

akirby

Check the transmission fluid level. Could be too high or too low. Not the most probable cause but it is possible.

akirby

Could also be the fuel pump or fuel filter. Did they check the fuel pressure?

gunnersmate

Sounds similar to the problem I had with my 00 V6 Sport. They eventually replaced both fuel pumps and the REM, rear electronic module. The REM has to be replaced if the fuel pumps are replaced.

They first diaged mine as low fuel pressure, and yes it was a transient problem, so the replaced the FP's . I get my LS and the next same thing so I had it towed back to the dealer. They had my car for several months, I didn't want it back unless it worked, some where along the way they opened dialog with the engineers and they directed the tech to replace the REM.

Have them drive it for a while. They will have to connect fuel pressure gauges in the engine and tape the gauge to the windshield so they can watch the fuel pressure while driving.

It is a tough problem to diag and it will take some dedication on their part and some understanding on yours.

Pleae keep us updated as much as possible. This problem has occured several times and the solutions to fix have been numerous.

szwingle

I seem to be having the same problem with my 2000 V8 engine over-heating and the misfiring that I am reading about. Mine started with a burning odor on occasion then the past few months I have had the misfires during normal driving. A couple of days ago the engine temp light went to hot and the warnings began. I got the engine reduce power warning and the check engine soon light. I did not drive it until today and the temperature did not get above normal but it does have the burning smell.

I wanted to know how to check the "coils" around the spark plugs to see if oil has settled there. I have an appointment to take the car into the dealer but wanted to have an idea for myself.

lsman

my 2001 lincoln ls will not start on cold days, but later in the day when it starts to warm up it will start. the dealer has changed the battery and starter but no results. anyone know what this problem could be

akirby

Does the engine crank over or does it just click or make no sound at all? Do the lights work?

Metal shrinks when it's cold and expands when it's warm. It's possible you have a bad connection somewhere that reconnects as it warms up. If it's reproducable the dealer should be able to pinpoint it.

lsman

it does not crank at all, the gauges flicker up and down also. but when it warms up it starts ok.
checked all connections at the battery and they look like new. could this be a problem with low voltage since the battery is located in the trunk, you think???????

akirby

I don't think so. If the gauges flicker that sounds like a loose connection. Check the voltage on the battery itself, then check it on the other end of the positive cable under the hood to see if the cable has a break or loose connection. Dead batteries don't normally recharge like that so a loose connection is more likely.

dcls

speaking of intake manifolds, when in for routine maintenance, dealer said that my V6 intake manifold had carbon deposits and should be cleaned - for $300. Is this a normal issue w/ 40k miles- don't see how it has manifested into a problem - yet. How would I know when/if it is an issue??

gkarg

Hummm... I did notice that my intake had a lot of carbon build-up, but wasn't really concerned or thought it was abnormal. I would worry when you see you gas mileage get worse or when you notice a change in engine performance (sluggish or rough running.)

I regularly get 23-24 mpg on each tank refill and that is with mixed town/highway miles and that hasn't really changed since 2000 - so I'm not going to worry about the carbon build-up for now. I'm not a carbon build-up expert though.

kbaird31

I have a 2000 LS V8 with 91,000 miles; I've only had minor problems with this vehicle from changing coils to changing the thermostat, the engine temp gauge on the dash has always stayed consistently on the center mark and until recently moves above it (2-3 cm) but doesnt overheat, this happens after 20 min of driving on the freeway, the mechanic at the dealership says its normal to vary but the manual says it shouldn't move. I've had the engine looked at but it makes me uneasy to see my engine temp gauge move when it never has before. Should I be worried or get used to it.

cdnpinhead

Sounds like you're in the early stages of the dreaded hydraulic cooling fan failure.

 

"Hydraulic cooling fan?" you're thinking.

 

Yup -- hydraulic cooling fan. If you want to take the time, you can go up in this board to September of '03 (Post #52) and read about my (& others') experiences with this.

 

It doesn't happen all the time, but does often enough to be known by several of us. Given the time of year, you can crutch the car along for quite awhile, but you'll definitely need to get it fixed before summer.

 

Bring money.

 

Incidentally, you're absolutely correct regarding the temperature gage. When the system's working right, the needle is solid as a rock.

gunnersmate

Yeah I bet the hydraulic cooling fan thing was born out of some Rub Goldberg design. I am sure someone got an employee of the year award for this master piece.

akirby

The hydraulic fan was designed because they were exceeding the electrical load limits. I'm sure it seemed like a good idea at the time.

cdnpinhead

In addition to which, the hydraulic system allows continuously-variable fan speed. You only get as much noise (speed) as you need to keep the rad temp where it belongs.

 

Wonderful concept -- however, it's complex, and expensive if it isn't executed perfectly.

 

As I pointed out in '03, the noisy unsophisticated fans in my wife's (now daughter's) minivan have never missed a beat in over 150K miles.

 

This is why the Asian vehicles are where they are today. Complicated stuff like this actually works for them for years and many thousands of miles.

 

I don't mind complexity. . .SO LONG AS IT WORKS.

akirby

Great point about making things too complex.

 

When the CTS first came out some bright engineer decided to put 2 clocks in it - one analog and one digital - and keep them in sync. When the synchronization failed Cadillac had to REPLACE THE GAUGE CLUSTER. Mind boggling.

 

Or the early 90's pontiacs with the expensive LED speedo that tried to look like a simple and inexpensive analog dial speedo. What's the point?

lrm

Thanks for the advice. I'm taking it in next month for service and will ask them to check out your recommendations. I'll keep you posted.

clcurrysr

I have a 02 LS Premium V8 and on slippery surfaces the rear end will kick to the right and turn the vehicle to the left. If I have any forward speed the traction control kicks in and tries to correct the oversteer to the left. With no speed I can do a 360 in place while the steering is neutral. The oversteer is not as bad when the traction control is turned off. I described the problem to my dealers service department and they looked at me like I was crazy. any ideas out there?

akirby

Traction control is not correcting the oversteer - it's only trying to regain traction for the rear wheels that obviously broke loose.

 

The question is why the rear is losing traction so easily. My first guess would be that you need new tires. What type of tires do you have and how many miles on them?

 

The only other possibility I can think of is that something is broken in the rear suspension which is adding to the problem.

lincoln072

I can't find a "valet switch" in the glove box to lock the trunk release for my 02 LS ?

Any help is appreciated.

clcurrysr

akirby, thanks for the reply. I have the original Bridgestone 235/50R17 tires with about 27K miles on them and about 1/8 of an inch of tread left from the low tread marks. Could the rear differential play a part in this?

akirby

I don't see how the differential would make a difference. I'd say your tires are done for. Tires will vulcanize over time (harden) which greatly reduces traction even though there is some tread left. I'd get new tires first and then troubleshoot it from there if the problem still exists. Some recommendations (in order of cost) would be Kumho all-season, continental conti-extreme-contacts, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S. Tirerack.com has a great owner survey and comparison feature. You can use 245/45-17 tires as well as the 235/50-17.

kbaird31

Well I took my 2000 LS in to a different dealership and come to find out it wasn't the hydraulic cooling fan. The car had been putting off a weird smell also and I kept complaining about the temp gauge not staying on the normal mark. Well the problem for the weird smell was a leaking gasket for the oil pan, and the car was burning oil. The temp problem was because the thermostat that I had replaced a year ago was faulty and was sticking occasionally. Its crazy that the dealership that replaced the thermostat in the past couldn't find anything wrong but another one finds the problem and gets the other dealership to pay for the thermostat that was bad to begin with. The car runs strong now and I have learned my lesson about finding the right mechanic. Thank you for the info about the hydraulic cooling fan.

lincoln072

My 02 LS V6 AT base still under the original MFG Warranty is missing the trunk valet switch which was supposed to have been in the glove box.

I saw a TSB #15865 from May 2002 about this.

My question is: Do I have any recourse ? I phoned Lincoln customer service (I was not aware of the TSB at the time) and their response was basically that they could not help me because "too much time has passed since the car was first sold" Anyone know if that is accurate? After all it is still under warranty !

I just bought this used car three weeks ago and so far I don't have any complaints except that to my surprise there isn't a trunk valet lock !

Is the fact that there is a TSB about it mean that Lincoln will have to correct the problem and add the valet switch at my request?

Also TSB # 15866 about " The availability of the daytime running lights "... Anyone know what this TSB is exactly about? Is the car supposed to have daytime running lights? Mine does not have them.

What exactly are the purposes of TSB's?

Are they similar to recalls?

I am obviously a novice and am learning a lot thanks to this forum and to all the participants.

Keep up the great discussions, thanks.

akirby

TSBs are simply repair guidelines for the mechanics. It doesn't entitle you to anything beyond normal warranty coverage.

 

I believe the valet switch was discontinued mid year and if so you're out of luck. If it was supposed to be there and simply not installed then yes, your warranty should cover it regardless of how old the car is.

 

DRLs were never available from the factory in the US, only in Canada. I believe the TSB was instructions on how to add them to US cars.

lobsenza

The valet switch in the glove box was eliminated in the middle of the 02 model year.

lincoln072

Hi Akirby, yes, I found out that the valet switch was discontinued mid-year. Thanks for the info.

Another reason why the American cars have lost market share and owner loyalty over the years.

An American luxury car to compete with European luxury cars without a trunk valet lock ! Shame on Lincoln engineers ! There is no excuse for the lack of this security feature on a Lincoln !

As trivial as my disappointment sounds it is to me an indication of the lack of respect for people (Lincoln buyers) over penny pinching corporate profits. Disgraceful !

WAKE UP DETROIT !

lincoln072

Thanks for the info Lobsenza.

Is there (maybe) an alternative way of locking the trunk release when valet parking ?

I find extremely hard to accept the lack of this basic security feature on a so called "luxury car". How can Lincoln engineers justify the discontinuation of the valet switch ?

Does anyone have any insight that would explain Lincoln's logic...or lack of ?

lobsenza

I think the elimination of the valet switch was in preparation for the 2003s in which the valet function is integrated into the push button switch.

 

As far as resolving the issue, you can simply disconnect the wire by the latch on the trunk. This would eliminate all remote trunk release, You can also cut the wire behind the switch and add your own valet switch. You might be able to swap the switch for the 2003 switch with the integrated valet function.

lincoln072

Great, thanks for the info...

I will ask the Lincoln service dept on my next appt about swapping the trunk release switch from my 02 LS with the 03 LS assuming the 03 has a valet lock as you suggested. I'll let you know the outcome.

I am otherwise happy with the car... and am enjoying the great looks and handling. I've only owned it for about 3 weeks and so far it has been trouble free...knock on wood : )

dwp22

I've got an '03. The trunk release is integrated with the push button release. You simply lock it with your key.

lincoln072

Thanks for sharing...

So if I want to switch my 02 valet-less trunk release with 03 locking trunk release I will need a different key.

Wonder if the lock tumbler can be retrofitted to work with my existing keys...

Share your experiences.