I've got an '03 V8 with about 5,000 miles on it. I use the SST feature exclusively, but on 4 ot 5 occasions the car will not upshift from 2nd to 3rd or from 3rd to 4th. I'll knock it over into auto mode and have no problems. The SST will not work again until I shut off the ignition and restart it, then things will be fine again. Has anyone else had this experience?
That's definitely a new one. There is a sensor (contact switch) that tells the computer when you request an upshift or downshift. Sounds like one of yours may be going bad. If that's it then it's an easy fix.
Thanks for the input. I'll have it checked the next time I bring it in for service. It seems to happen when I make a sharp right hand turn. I can't believe I have a problem that gunnersmate hasn't had yet. :-)
Mine would occassionally shift to D5 but still be in the SST slot. I later found out my wife spilled some root beer so i removed the console and went to work on the super fund site she left in my console and it hasn't happend since.
I imagine what you are seeing is a fluke and would certainly be covered under warranty. I love the SST and use just about every time I take the car out. I checked the TSB's for the 03 and did see one for the PCM reflash as follows:
Article No. 03-15-8
08/04/03
TRANSMISSION - 5R55S - HARSH SHIFTS - VEHICLES BUILT BETWEEN 11/18/2002 AND 5/17/2003 ONLY
let us know what they find out after you go in for service.
Glad to have the grin back as well and appreciate your sympathy for a lack of better terminology.
I had a little DYI (do-it-yourself) project the other day. It turns out that the license plate lights aren't very well secured into the plastic "chrome" surround/housing. I had to drill a small hole into the housing and install a small phillips head stainless steel screw. I put another stainless steel screw in the other tab slot, but used the edge of the cut-out in the housing to secure that side.
The lights are held up by flimsy plastic tabs. How long will the other one last?
Common problem with the 2000 models. They fixed it early on so any replacment lights that you get should be fine. But it sounds like you won't need replacements, huh?
I do recall some issues being posted, but I was thinking that is was the entire chrome surround separating from the trunk lid. I'm not looking forward to that DYI fix.
Nope - it's not the whole surround, just the lights. The tabs break off and the lights dangle. Both of mine were bad but no problems after replacement.
Anybody out there have a clue as to why the right side back up light lens on my 03'is leaking moisture and fogging up. I am on my third lens and still no solution in sight. Curious, the left lens is not leaking!
Well, I knew the time was approaching for new tires (BTW would appreciate any suggestions for a smooth, quiet-riding replacement tire for a V6) when the RR tire went low the other AM. In attempting to install the spare, I 'discovered' that the lug wrench doesn't capture the nuts - it slipped and scored the nut instead. So what's up, it's all factory stuff?? Anyone else experienced this? Not comforting in emergency situations.
Welcome to the club of drivers stuck on the curb with traffic flyin' past you at 100 mph and tryin to change the tire with a lug wrench that doesnt fit club. SHEW!
Been there and done that an have many others. If you want a budget tire that grips well and wears well check out the Kumho Ecsta 711. I have enjoyed some of the finest ramps that ingress and egress the I-4 and I-75 corridors exceeding the posted values that indicate lawful local motion of a motor vehicle all while enjoying a pleasant ambient cabin noise level and being fiscally responsible at the same time. No person should be able to enjoy such a pleasurable experience alone, which I why I shared this information with you.
At any rate.... I have the 245/45/17 in the ecsta 711's and have used the 712's before but they are not as economical but are exponentially better on the road.
As far as the lug nuts go I highly recommend that you ask the folks at www.classicdesignconcepts.com if they have any more left over from the LSE wheels they sold a few months back. I do not know of any other source than that. I check several auto parts stores for different breaker bars and non of them fit. The aluminum cap over the lugs prevent the breaker bar from fitting properly.
The permanent fix for the lug nut thing is to replace the stock nuts with Chrysler part "MB579290 NUT WHEEL 22005024". I got mine from Franklin Sussex Auto Mall (www.fsautomall.com) for $2.28 each. I can't remember which DC car they're actually for, but they have the proper washer, fit the threads fine, and I haven't had a bit of trouble with them in the year and a half I've had them on.
Only problem is that the stock lug wrench doesn't fit the hex. I threw my 4-ended cross wrench into the trunk, and that solved it for me. It may or may not be worth $50 - 60 to you to fix (plus the cost of a different wrench), but it can be done.
And yes, it's a very well known problem. Yet another cut corner on what's otherwise mostly a fine vehicle.
When the club members started buying these en masse I'm sure the Chrysler parts guys were scratching their heads and thinking they had a quality control problem.
You guys are kidding right? You mean you can't get the tire off with the lug wrench that they give you? I've never heard of such a thing. Is this true for all wheel styles? If you call for roadside assistance will they be able to change a tire?
I think this is mainly an issue for lug nuts that have been slightly deformed. Unfortunately, that's easy to do so it may be more common than you think. I used the lug wrench that comes with the car one time and it worked ok. But I normally use a 4-way with either the 19mm or 3/4" socket. You can get a fold-up version that will fit easily in the car. Highly recommended for all cars since the factory lug wrench always sucks.
I concur, if you don't want to wait for the road side folks to show up and have the same problem then buy yourself a 4way or a socket. I called AAA for a tire change back when I had the OEM wheels and they guy didn't have anything that could fit. So we used a mallet to seat the breaker bar and pliers to remove the lug nearly 20 times. I think 2 of the 20 came off without a hassel.
I use a 20mm 6-pt socket on my torque wrench at home. Works great on lug nuts in good condition. The 19mm socket won't fit. And don't use a 12-pt - it will chew up the lug nut in a hurry.
To clarify: I never had any trouble with my stock lug nuts or the wrench that came with the car. I did a five-wheel tire rotation in a church parking lot in Utah using only the stock wrench & jack with no problems at all, a few months after I bought the car. It was slower than it would have been at home with my floor jack & cross wrench, but it was not a problem in any way.
Why were my nuts (so to speak) in so much better condition? Because I've never let anyone with an air wrench anywhere near my vehicle. The only time the wheels have come off my car, I took them off. No dealer or tire shop has ever touched my cars nuts.
Good idea. Should have thought of metric size; a 19mm almost worked, so 20mm should be OK (when I find it). BTW I called the dealer and they have not heard of this issue. Hmmm.
I guess the reason they haven't heard of the problem is becasue usually it is solved by the owner before the visit the service center and by the time the owber does visit the servce center the lug nut issue is superceded by another mountainous issue.
Plus the dealer nvere has to remove the wheels with oem tools. I bet if the tech had to use the same tools we do that problem would have been nipped in the bud within the first year.
The trunk release inside the car does not work. The trunk release on the key chain works fine. User manual doesn't show a fuse for that device. If it's a fuse, which one? If not, what could it be? Thanks
I had no problems with mine neither. I used the factory jack and bar to remove all wheels to paint my brake rotors and no problems .I used a torque wrench to tighten them up though.
Join the club the OIL on plugs is common place for the v8 & v6 engines at least the coils didn't go out on you with a truck behind you or something! the auto trannys are weak on this car .I hear alot of problems in this department that opted me to buy a 2000 ls standard model .I see trannys on e-bay if you really need one . good luck
The oil issue is NOT a problem for the V6's. Mine has 90K+ miles and I've done two plug changes. No oil at all. The problem is with the valve/cam cover gaskets on the earlier V8's. Lincoln has since redesigned the gasket. The tranny's on my 2000 (90K+) and my 2001 (just short of 50K) have performed well. The other board I visit has many, many posters, and the only trans issue is the early '03 valve bodies. The head of LS trans quality in Wixom showed a bunch of us (THANKS Kathy K.!!) the reason. It was a simple tooling issue. Seems a little (read microscopik) burr was "left" on the end of a "piston", and was hanging up the piston.
I have had the oil on the plugs problem.... it was diagnosed around 60k miles and I am rapidly approcahing 100k. By now I think we all know about the tranny problems I have endured.
I find it hard to believe that mine is an isolated case for either the oil or the the tranny for the 00 V6 Sport.
Like I said, I have 2 V6's and oil is not an issue. On the other board, none of us V6 owners have oil problems, and at least two have over 100K miles. Same with the transmission. I'm not trying to minimize your problems, but maybe you got a "Friday" car??
I think is was a friday/monday car propably the 3rd shift. Unfortuneately we will never know the depth, breadth and scope of this problem.
I learned of my oil problem from the other board years back. I thought I had a leak and read where another member had the same problem. You might not have personally read it but it has been stated.
The simple fact that tunes ups arent required till 100k minimizes the potential for discovery in itself.
The diagnoses of my oil problem lead my my getting at tune up at around 45k miles becasue they already had the intake deconstructed. I saved a few hundred bucks becasue the warranty covered gasket issue.
I am not a lounge lizard when I go infor service. I have the cell phone numbers of both the techs that work on my car. I believe the problem is systemic and is under reported due to the service intervals and difficulties run into, esp for the V6, when probing. It is easy to check the drivers side and just becasue one has gone doesn't mean the other side is clean and clear.
I don't want a false sense of safety to turn around and bite these folks. really what I want people to do is ask questions and visit the dealer and have them check once the mileage gets high or before the warranty expires. It can save them thousands.
IMHO...Board participation should be mandatory for owners. And if they don't have a PC then they should be independently surveyed when they hit the dealer for service.
The reason I think it should be independent is because I have never ever ever ever recvd a survey from Lincoln or Ford for any of the repairs and service I have had peformed.
Really enjoy how the car rides. Have had the common issues settled in the past, transmission reflash, rear window regulators, CV boots, ball joints, etc. It has been trouble free for some time. Now there are some new problems. I remember some earlier posts about the heated seats. My driver seat heater is dead. The dealer quotes a cost of nearly $400, most of it for labor. What has been your experience? Just recently my photochromic rearview mirror has lost its coating and no longer works. Has this been a big problem? Could not find posts on this. Quote for this job is $220. Is this out of line? Like I said, I love the way it handles, but I am building a new car piece by piece, and it is getting pretty expensive! Welcome any comments or insights.
sorry to hear about the recent problems. I have had two drivers seat heat elements replced in the past. During the first replacement the dealer scratched the inside of my drivers door bad enough to have to replace the insdide panel.
Apparently the seat has to come out and it is no easy task. You could probably do the job but i would let them do this one.
The mirro on my LS has gone out before, fotuneately under warranty as were the heating elements. You could buy the mirror. at fordpartsonline.com, choose collision in the drop down on the main page, really cheap and replace it yourself. You might be offended by what they, the dealer, wants to charge you after you see how much the mirror is.
Both are fairly common in my book others may have faired better than we.
You could take the seat out yourself and send it to an upholsterer along with a new element. That's what most of the dealerships do anyway - they don't touch the upholstery.
I don't remember CV boots being a common problem at all, and the ball joints were just a recall for a torque problem.
Hello everyone. I just purchased a 2004 LS and am enjoying all the good info.here. Some of you are referring to other boards, I would like to have a list of some good ones.
I've been trying for a while now to upgrade to a brighter headlight on my 2003 LS. I have been working with my local auto part suppliers to no avail. I'm primarily interested in the low beam lights. My original bulb is a Phillips H11. Is there a after market bulb available without changing out the whole light housing?
Sylvania Silverstars are highly recommended. Direct OEM replacement but they give off a much whiter light with no adverse effects. Available online or at AutoZone.
Thanks, akirdy, but that is the exact bulb they originally sold me. But it was from Shucks. They gave me a Silverstar 9000 series, I believe the 9005 (Low beam, anyway). The spacing on the electrodes on the bulb were not the same as on the H11 bulb from Phillips. Where to from here?
Is anyone aware of a problem with the hydraulic slave cylinder affecting the clutch in either the 2002, 2001 or 2002 LS? Please email me at captdavid@hotmail.com. Thank you
Hi captdavid - since this is a message board format, we don't encourage members to answer questions via e-mail. Posting the question AND answer allows for all of our members to benefit from the advice. Additionally, posting your e-mail address on a public board will expose you to receiving even more SPAM.
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Hi, I Just bought a 2000 Linc LS V6 with a mileage 25,700. Everything is in excellent condition except tires. Three of four tired wear out to 5 or 6 according to dealer. I got ruuning noise, (regular bumping) for this. Dealer suggestted me to change tires. Is this normal for the original Continental ContiTouringContact CH95, 215/60HR16. Should I buy new tire from Continental, or swich to other manufacturer, like Michelin. Safety is my priority than performance. Thanks.
Comments
Did you have a soda or coffee spill in the console?
gunnersmate-I'm glad to read that you got your LS grin back. You deserve to keep it for awhile. I'll keep this problem to myself.
I imagine what you are seeing is a fluke and would certainly be covered under warranty. I love the SST and use just about every time I take the car out. I checked the TSB's for the 03 and did see one for the PCM reflash as follows:
Article No.
03-15-8
08/04/03
TRANSMISSION - 5R55S - HARSH SHIFTS - VEHICLES
BUILT BETWEEN 11/18/2002 AND 5/17/2003 ONLY
let us know what they find out after you go in for service.
Glad to have the grin back as well and appreciate your sympathy for a lack of better terminology.
The lights are held up by flimsy plastic tabs. How long will the other one last?
oh well...
Nope - no need to order parts for my fix...
I would like to take this opportunity to thank those engineers that worked on the Lic Plate lights. Bravo Zulu.
Been there and done that an have many others. If you want a budget tire that grips well and wears well check out the Kumho Ecsta 711. I have enjoyed some of the finest ramps that ingress and egress the I-4 and I-75 corridors exceeding the posted values that indicate lawful local motion of a motor vehicle all while enjoying a pleasant ambient cabin noise level and being fiscally responsible at the same time. No person should be able to enjoy such a pleasurable experience alone, which I why I shared this information with you.
At any rate.... I have the 245/45/17 in the ecsta 711's and have used the 712's before but they are not as economical but are exponentially better on the road.
As far as the lug nuts go I highly recommend that you ask the folks at www.classicdesignconcepts.com if they have any more left over from the LSE wheels they sold a few months back. I do not know of any other source than that. I check several auto parts stores for different breaker bars and non of them fit. The aluminum cap over the lugs prevent the breaker bar from fitting properly.
sorry you had to learn the hard way.
Only problem is that the stock lug wrench doesn't fit the hex. I threw my 4-ended cross wrench into the trunk, and that solved it for me. It may or may not be worth $50 - 60 to you to fix (plus the cost of a different wrench), but it can be done.
And yes, it's a very well known problem. Yet another cut corner on what's otherwise mostly a fine vehicle.
When the club members started buying these en masse I'm sure the Chrysler parts guys were scratching their heads and thinking they had a quality control problem.
Why were my nuts (so to speak) in so much better condition? Because I've never let anyone with an air wrench anywhere near my vehicle. The only time the wheels have come off my car, I took them off. No dealer or tire shop has ever touched my cars nuts.
FWIW.
Plus the dealer nvere has to remove the wheels with oem tools. I bet if the tech had to use the same tools we do that problem would have been nipped in the bud within the first year.
Thanks
I find it hard to believe that mine is an isolated case for either the oil or the the tranny for the 00 V6 Sport.
I learned of my oil problem from the other board years back. I thought I had a leak and read where another member had the same problem. You might not have personally read it but it has been stated.
The simple fact that tunes ups arent required till 100k minimizes the potential for discovery in itself.
The diagnoses of my oil problem lead my my getting at tune up at around 45k miles becasue they already had the intake deconstructed. I saved a few hundred bucks becasue the warranty covered gasket issue.
I am not a lounge lizard when I go infor service. I have the cell phone numbers of both the techs that work on my car. I believe the problem is systemic and is under reported due to the service intervals and difficulties run into, esp for the V6, when probing. It is easy to check the drivers side and just becasue one has gone doesn't mean the other side is clean and clear.
I don't want a false sense of safety to turn around and bite these folks. really what I want people to do is ask questions and visit the dealer and have them check once the mileage gets high or before the warranty expires. It can save them thousands.
IMHO...Board participation should be mandatory for owners. And if they don't have a PC then they should be independently surveyed when they hit the dealer for service.
The reason I think it should be independent is because I have never ever ever ever recvd a survey from Lincoln or Ford for any of the repairs and service I have had peformed.
Really enjoy how the car rides. Have had the common issues settled in the past, transmission reflash, rear window regulators, CV boots, ball joints, etc. It has been trouble free for some time. Now there are some new problems. I remember some earlier posts about the heated seats. My driver seat heater is dead. The dealer quotes a cost of nearly $400, most of it for labor. What has been your experience? Just recently my photochromic rearview mirror has lost its coating and no longer works. Has this been a big problem? Could not find posts on this. Quote for this job is $220. Is this out of line? Like I said, I love the way it handles, but I am building a new car piece by piece, and it is getting pretty expensive! Welcome any comments or insights.
Apparently the seat has to come out and it is no easy task. You could probably do the job but i would let them do this one.
The mirro on my LS has gone out before, fotuneately under warranty as were the heating elements. You could buy the mirror. at fordpartsonline.com, choose collision in the drop down on the main page, really cheap and replace it yourself. You might be offended by what they, the dealer, wants to charge you after you see how much the mirror is.
Both are fairly common in my book others may have faired better than we.
I don't remember CV boots being a common problem at all, and the ball joints were just a recall for a torque problem.
Thanks,
pcurtis
Send me an email.
Say do you folks know of a Silver Star replacement for the 00 Fog Lights?
Thanks,
Pete
However, you can get a live answer to this question and more -
TONIGHT - 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET
Get LIVE feedback on your maintenance or repair problems. Join our guest experts alcan, 0patience and mr_shiftright as they tackle your fix-it questions!
kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
I Just bought a 2000 Linc LS V6 with a mileage 25,700. Everything is in excellent condition except tires. Three of four tired wear out to 5 or 6 according to dealer. I got ruuning noise, (regular bumping) for this. Dealer suggestted me to change tires. Is this normal for the original Continental ContiTouringContact CH95, 215/60HR16. Should I buy new tire from Continental, or swich to other manufacturer, like Michelin. Safety is my priority than performance. Thanks.