Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options

Lincoln LS: Problems & Solutions

1…6791112…14

Comments

  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Don't recall hearing of that type of problem. Sounds like the accelerator pedal position sensor to me. If it was a software problem it would be happening on all of them. Could also be the throttle control which is operated by the computer. If they can't fix it then you need to find another shop that can do a better job of troubleshooting. Or at least confirm what the frst shop told you. But this sounds like a hardware problem to me.
  • fordforeverfordforever Member Posts: 2
    Just 2 days ago I've noticed the same problem with my 01' LS with 81,000 miles on it. I've been serching websites allnight to gain some info. the noise is on the drivers side of my LS. You said that your wheel doesn't have any slack in it. Did you raise the car and shake the wheel? Well I did and mine has slack in it. I have an appointment with the dealer Monday June 6,2005. I'll post a diognosis report.
  • fordforeverfordforever Member Posts: 2
    I have my 01' LS at the Ford dealer. The noise in the rear was due to a damaged hub-assembly. My LS is 6,000 miles over the warranty reliability. So ,there-for, I have to foot the $508.00 fee. I was told that the part cost $500 and the labor is $75. I hope this helps you.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Did you ask for an AWA (after warranty adjustment)? It's totally up to the dealer and they typically only do it if you bought the car from them or you're a very good customer. But it is available. Lincoln allows 2 AWAs per vehicle. Could pay all or part of the repair bill.
  • tateostateos Member Posts: 36
    I recently asked two questions - one about the 2-3 shift and 1 about spark plugs on the V-6 (2005).

    Thanks for your responses about the trans. Anybody have any ideas on my second question?

    "Also, how do you check/replace the spark plugs on the V-6. It looks like the intake manifold covers them. "

    Another Q - do we have a cabin filter (2005 V-6)? Where is it/how do we change it?

    Thanks.

    Richard in Phoenix
  • chris29chris29 Member Posts: 1
    I appreciate your statement about owning an automatic. I have owned four cars in my short driving career, all of them were manuals before this LS.

    This car has been expensive, repeatedly, to fix. I have frequented this forum and seemingly read every thread. I have had so many of the problems posted, I have begun to think that a manufacturer decides which parts to make/buy crappy and expect to have repairs needed at particular replacement costs. These predictions could help mangage the business of repairing the vehicles, I'm sure you know what I mean.

    You say you made a mistake in buying an American car in the first year and being an automatic, at that. This LS has been my most expensive car ever, purchase and repair. I believe it depreciated by half within the 3 years before I bought it. I wasn't sure if that was a good sign or not.

    I have always told myself that I would never buy a car Brand New, because it would lose so much value with in the first few years. Leasing one is certainly possible. One thing is for certain though, I will never own another automatic! I so miss the stick! You just feel that much more connected to your car. It's an emotional thing...

    My question to you: What serious sport sedan are you considering next? I respect your opinion.

    And one thing i really dislike about this LS - There is no where to put ANYTHING. So much space, none organized effectively. FORM follows FUNCTION. Make it work, then make it pretty.
  • russ1970russ1970 Member Posts: 3
    Can any one help, My car is running good while it aidles but when I drive it it hesitates bad going down the road , like its skipping are something, How many fuel filters does my car have, I know of the one in the fender well up front ?
    no engine light is on , it seems to be losseng powerer and skipping while going down the road accelerating only :cry:
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,618
    Well, yours is a query I've never had before, but I'm certainly willing to comment (as always).

    For starters, I may not have been as clear in my original post as I should have. I did buy a manual. Therefore, I don't have to endure the issues that I read about regarding the automatic. However, when my present car expires, I have no option to replace it with another Lincoln. I was especially disappointed when all the upgrades were done in '03 (V V T, etc, etc) at the same time the manual was discontinued.

    However, to respond to your question, I have very few options:

    If I continue to demand a manual, I'll have to swallow all that comes with the BMW. I think it'll be awhile before they discontinue them, but the reliability, i-drive & external appearance give me pause.

    If I'm willing to step down a bit (or so) in terms of amenities (like the interior), the Infiniti G35 is a possibility. However, I regularly carry my bicycle in the trunk of my car, and having a fold-down rear seat is necessary for that -- not available on the G.

    If I want more luxury with an Infiniti, the M35 sounds like a nice choice. However, no manual & no fold-down rear seat.

    Audis are great to drive, but the reliability is spotty, especially long-term, and I tend to keep my cars for well in excess of 100K miles. Besides which, Audi is going away from manuals as well.

    I have no obvious good choice for my next car, given what I care about. Things could well change over the next few years though. Time will tell.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    It's most likely the COPS (coil on plugs). These are usually accompanied by a Check Engine Light and code, but not always. If your valve cover gaskets are leaking that will make them fail even quicker.

    The only fuel filter is the one in the front fender. Won't hurt to change it first - it's cheap and it needs to be done anyway.
  • russ1970russ1970 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, how hard is that to replace , I had a pvc hose go out on it a while back I ment to change the plug wires and plugs then , because I was right there but I didnt do it , So I guess you mean change the plugs and wires right? How hard is it to change the Trans filter and refill , shouyld I let the dealer do that? and do you know what they charge? Thanks for all the help!
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    The COPS sit right on top of the spark plugs, so the procedure is the same as changing the spark plugs. You shouldn't have to change the wires.

    The transmission fluid should be swapped out at a Lincoln dealer using a machine that connects to the cooling lines. You don't need to drop the pan or change the filter. As one of the transmission engineers told us - if there's enough stuff in there to clog up the filter, it's time for a new tranny. It's not cheap ($120 - $180) but it changes 95% of the fluid whereas dropping the pan only gets a fraction of the old fluid out.
  • jazeladejazelade Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 Lincoln LS that is at 55550 miles. Lately, (a month) I have been hearing a whirlling sound coming from the back. I was unsure as to what I was hearing until 3 of my friends, riding in the back, asked what that noise was.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    If it occurs at all speeds and gets worse as the speed increases, it's probably a wheel bearing.

    If it only occurs at 51 mph (give or take 3 mph) then it's the dreaded 51 mph drone caused by the rear half-shafts. A TSB was published which said to change out the half-shafts but you'll have to pay for it yourself since you're out of warranty.

    If that's not it then it's probably the rear differential.
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    The drone is at ~ 2100 RPM in 4-th or 5-th with converter locked up, and is throttle-sensitive. It's present at light-to-moderate throttle & disappears when unlocking the converter. This is done with a light tap of the brake pedal.
  • russ1970russ1970 Member Posts: 3
    I think the cops have gone bad on my Lincoiln ls , Were can I get the parts other than the dealer, and how much do they cost , and Should I change the plugs too? at 98,000 miles is on the car ,the car runs great at idile but when you drive it down the road it hesitates and starts like cutting out, like its skipping or the trans is slipping , I also have a fuel filter ready to install today! can any one give me some advice on waht to do :cry: :sick:
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Replace the plugs - if for no other reason than to make sure they don't fuse with the head.

    Check with Bill Jenkins at Signature Lincoln/Mercury in Las Vegas. Great guy - great prices - great service.
  • jazeladejazelade Member Posts: 6
    Thank you so much for your help. I have been driving myself nuts wondering what the heck that noise was. I am getting it fixed in the next couple of days. I read Car and Drivers review of the LS and thought it was pretty solid. After reading all these posts, I am wondering if I should've kept my Infiniti. I certainly miss the room and storage space in the Infiniti but...oh, well. Thanks again!
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    I can carry at least 6 8' 2x10's in my LS with all doors, windows, & deck lid closed.

    The LS is SOLID. I'm on my second one. 36K miles and insignificant visits to dealer. I 'upgraded' from a 2001 Lexus GS 430.

    Drive, enjoy. There are few cars that provide as much driving pleasure.
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    An amendment to my prior post. If it's the dreaded drone, which is reduced with half shafts, it occurs at about 2100 RPM on the V8, and about 2800 RPM on the V6.
  • jazeladejazelade Member Posts: 6
    Lateralg - Thanks for the insight on space but I'm still not convinced. I bought my LS '00 V8 in Nov. 04...left my '99 Infiniti I30. On paper, the LS was bigger than the Infiniti. The only problems I had with I30 was that it wouldn't start one day for about 5 hours and the airbag light flashed for about 3 months. I loved the cars' power tremendously but I wanted something else, something more sporty and different. The LS certainly fit the bill. It took a while to get used to how much lighter the LS was than the I30. The handling of the LS is outstanding but compared to the overall interior and storage space of the I30 (in my opinion), the LS is a much smaller vehicle. Small potatoes though, I'm dealing with it.

    I've read the owner's maual but am still unsure about a couple things:

    *Which gear is the normal operating gear? (Automatic)
    (The book says that D5 is the override gear and is normal and better on gas consumption. However, when I'm in D5, doing city driving, it seems like the car never finds the proper gear. It's as if it never catches. When I stop the car and switch to D4, this seems to fix the problem BUT if I travel at speeds higher than 40 mph, the rpm's rev at 3000. I'm confused?)

    *Resetting the "oil required" message?
    (The book spells out the process, however, I must be an idiot because I couldn't get the damn thing to reset properly. So....my "oil change required" message is still displayed, after about 1000 miles since my last oil changed. I really am wondering if the daggone oil was ever changed. You know how shady Jiffy Lube can be. I thought it would've reset automatically once the oil is changed but I guess not.)

    *Side view mirror switch placed awkwardly behind the steering wheel.
    (What is up with that?)

    *WHERE IS THE OIL DIPSTICK? :mad:
    (My mother and l looked and damn if I couldn't find the SOB.)

    *The prettiest engine I've ever seen. (I thought the I30 engine looked good)
    :)
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    I agree, the interior storage space ... console, cup holders, etc. on the 2000 model was sparse. My 2003 is much better.

    The difference between D4 & D5 is that D4 prevents OD shift from happening. All else up to & including the shift into 4-th is the same. D4 should be just fine around town, but be sure to use D5 when on the open road.

    I'm a fellow idiot. I did what I THOUGHT the manual said, not what it actually said.

    Engine or transmission dipstick? The tranny doesn't have one.

    If you or anyone else is in the market for a new Ford or Lincoln-Mercury product, I have a few X-Plan PINs available
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    The biggest difference between the I30 and the LS is that the I30 is FWD and therefore has more room available (no transmission/drive shaft tunnel).

    Whatever you're doing to reset the oil, do the other. If you're pressing and releasing the button - press and hold. If you're holding it - press and release. It's one or the other but I forget which.

    I think the oil dipstick is on the driver's side of the engine - it's not hidden. As lateralg pointed out there is no transmission dipstick.
  • bettmorebettmore Member Posts: 1
    I have a '00 ls with 78K I get a jerk when I am driving it usually occurs between 40-60 mph.The engine light came on 1 time but by the time I had it checked at auto zone there was no stored error.It feels as if the car isnt getting fuel or something like that it just spudders for a few seconds and then its ok. Also when idleing it will sometimes feel as though it blups.Could this be a 02 sensor?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Maybe, but it's probably either a clogged fuel filter or bad COP (coil on plug). The code will tell you which one is misfiring if you can get one.
  • gkarggkarg Member Posts: 230
    I don't know if anyone replied to your message, but I'll give it a shot.

    To change the cabin air filter:
    1.) Open the hood.
    2.) The filter is just below the windshield under a black plastic piece - on the passenger side.
    3.) To release the button snaps - push in on each of the centers until they click. There are five (5) on the top.
    4.) There is one more button snap that connects to the door moulding (I think.)
    5.) The plastic also has spring snaps on the bottom - so just gently pull the piece out.
    6.) The filter in under there. It has a little plastic release near the fender side of the filter. On the other side - It has also snaps on there.
    7.) Remove replace and reverse procedure. (I hope I got everything.)

    It is recommended to replace every 15K - unless you have a high dust/dirt area.

    As for the plugs. My mechanic says that the OEM plugs are the best for the car (used to work for FORD, but opened his own shop.) He says change every 50K or they could seize in the engine and then you replace the engine. They are not easy to change -- in regard to the ones on the passenger side, but it is possible. (As I did it in less than 2 hours and a few choice words - now and again.)
  • craig21craig21 Member Posts: 2
    Here is the title for the TSB you were looking for:
    Engine Controls - MIL ON/Lean DTC Service Tips

    TSB 04-17-4

    I am experiencing the same problem. It started off with a P0411, so I had to get my secondary air injection pump replaced ($450) and now I get P0171 and P0174.
  • tonystrucktonystruck Member Posts: 1
    hey, im tony, combat medic stationed at walter reed, i have been having the same problems with my right tail light could you give me some advice.
    thanks
  • lovemylslovemyls Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 LS with manual transmission (5 -speed). Only have about 26K miles on the car. In the last couple of months, I have noticed that the steering seems to stiffen, almost as if there was a loss of power steering. It will occur for just an instant and then the steering is fine again. It typically occurs when I am leaving the parking garage in my office building and drive up the exit ramp, although I have sometimes felt it when driving. I recently had 25K maintenance and service done at the dealership and specifically asked them to check the steering. They found nothing wrong. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
  • eidodeidod Member Posts: 1
    The check autotrack light comes on, when I stop and check the system it says it is ok. After awhile the light will come on again. Can you offer advice?
  • schitzoschitzo Member Posts: 3
    What is involved in a tune up for a 2000 LS besides plugs? How much should I expect a dealership or repair shop to charge? Currently engine seems to be "missing" especially going up hills. Coded once with #3 cyl misfire, but code went off and ran well for several more weeks. Thanks
  • dmoodydmoody Member Posts: 1
    Just a quick note to say thanks! Your instructions were perfect and I was able to access the filter in a matter of minutes.

    Thanks again!
  • lobsenzalobsenza Member Posts: 619
    I had trouble with the oil life indicator and the owner's manual isn't clear. Here is how you do it:

    Resetting Oil Life

    • Press and release the status button.
    • When the oil life percentage appears, press and release the reset button.
    • When it says to press and hold the reset button to reset the oil life, press and hold the reset and setup buttons simultaneously if you want to reset it below 100% (otherwise just hold the reset button).
    • Once the custom percentage appears (if reset and setup were held), press the reset button once for each 10% reduction in oil life that is desired.
  • joseljosel Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2001 LS (V6) and recently I replaced my left and center stop ligh bulb. Now all of the sudden my right low beam headlight don't work and my left high beam don't work either. I switched the lights and they still good. I also checked the fuses and they are good. Anybody got any ideas. Thanks.
  • rudebwoydreadrudebwoydread Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 LS V8. I just recently went to the dealer and had one of my coils replaced. I was charged $255 for the replacement of the coil, I need to replace all of them, but that can be very costly. Can anyone walk me through of how to get to it and replace them. I know the coils itself cost $48, I guess its the labor that ups the price so much. :cry:
  • mcgeemcgee Member Posts: 7
    i have 2000LS V8 i am now experiencing the same problem my car is running terrible i have replaced 6 coil packs now my car is giving off a terrible fume, it will not get speed pass 35 and it barely moves i had taken before it loss speed power got a reading for number 6 coil pack and o2 sensor i was advised to change the coil pack did that it started fine ran well for a day going up a hill it loss speed and the fumes started if anyone else has this problem or know what the problem is please let me know i need help i love my ls but tired of spending money and not fixing the problems
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    What kind of "fumes"? What does it smell like and where is it coming from? Can you smell it inside the car or only outside?
  • scootertrash2scootertrash2 Member Posts: 71
    I noticed my car has strange fumes too, I wonder if it's related to the 49 cent bean burritos Taco Bell had last Sunday.
  • mcgeemcgee Member Posts: 7
    the smell is inside and outside the car it smells burning gas it burns my eyes
  • scootertrash2scootertrash2 Member Posts: 71
    Same here!
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    I think you need to get the car to the dealer ASAP! That sounds like a fuel or exhaust leak and could be very dangerous. Could be the evaporator cannister. Get it checked out asap!
  • mcgeemcgee Member Posts: 7
    thanks akirby I am going to take it in to dealer to be checked I will let you know what the dealer says right now I am not driving the car my is so bad it will have to be towed in
  • wrt01wrt01 Member Posts: 1
    Ok Ive read all the posts..... I have a LS V8 with 63K, had a slight misfire at 50 mph... would come and go not consistent. Now from 20-70mph its a constant mis when under acceleration. I first changed the fuel filter... got better. Now its horrible. Bought a new ignition coil (had one that has a cracked) replaced it... no change so I started swapping them out with the extra one I have. Swapped all 8 no change. It idles a little rough after putting in to gear. The previous owner had, under warranty, valve cover gaskets replaced, and 4 coils... also the computer re programed. Spoke with the local dealer and he says it is the transmission. I believe it has to be ignition or fuel related. The ck engine light does not come on.... can they check for a code. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Check the fuel pumps (yes, there are 2. The fuel tank is a saddle type and one pump transfers fuel to the other side) and fuel injectors.

    I doubt it's the tranny but it's possible.
  • mcgeemcgee Member Posts: 7
    I do not know what the problem is but my started out the same I have replaced coils the last reading I got was for O2 sensor but my car has gotten so bad it is not driveable it is just parked in the yard right I am going to have it towed to dealer next so I can find out what the problem is if you find out post and let me know
  • weman27weman27 Member Posts: 7
    Just recently my auto trac light keeps coming on along with my ABS light and a message 'check auto trac' appears. It only happens every other day, so I don't know if it could just be a sensor or a major concern. If it makes any difference I just had new brakes and rotors put on about a week ago.
    Any advise would be appreciated.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Probably a wheel speed sensor. That's used by both the ABS and Advance Trac systems.
  • minnesotaminnesota Member Posts: 3
    It doesn't seem like I'm doing anything differently, but every couple weeks I park my 2001 LS, shut it off, and can't get the key out of the ignition. The only thing that resolves the situation is starting the car back up, putting it in gear, move the car a little, put it back into park, shut it off, then the key comes out fine.
    Any ideas?
  • lateralglateralg Member Posts: 929
    Turn the steering wheel a bit in both directions while removing the key.
  • weman27weman27 Member Posts: 7
    I cannot find any discussions for the Continentals so I was wondering if anyone here could help me out. I am looking into buying a 2000 Cont. The seller says the autoride light is on and there may be a leak in the rear strut, I have read to replace the struts is expensive, so I was wondering if there was any other way to fix the leak without dropping a lot of money into it.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hi. The Lincoln Continental discussion had archived itself after a period of inactivity. I reopened it for you and moved your post to it. Here's the link: weman27, "Lincoln Continental" #352, 27 Jul 2005 12:50 pm.

    Hope we can help.
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles