Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
Options
Ford Ranger II
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
Thanks in Advance
James
Hope this makes some sense
James
All this stuff about changing rotors and all seems a lot of hog wash someone is wanting your check book
Is the truck making any noise, or shaking when you're on the brakes? I'm fortunate enough to have access to a full service garage, & do my own maintenance on my vehicles. (oil changes, brakes, tires, etc.) This can be both good and bad, however. Anyway . . .
Hope this helps.
keith24
The 4.0 has about 25 ft/lbs more torque, and 10 more HP thats it. I have a friend who has a 3.0 5spd and he gets around just fine, pulls a small boat ok too. I prefer 5spds, I feel I have more control over the vehicle. To each their own.
Thanks Again
James
The second thing I've noticed about the Ranger is that it doesn't seem to slow down once it's moving. It seems like the breaks aren't strong enough for the weight of the truck. I realize that there is a big weight difference between the Mazda and the Ranger, but sometimes the stopping distance is just a little to close for comfort on the Ford.
The last difference and most annoying is the gas gauge on the Ford. The truck has been to the dealership a couple of times for this same problem. They supposedly replaced the float assembly and some sensors, but the gauge is still off by about 5 gallons. On a truck that comes with a 19.5 gallon gas tank thats a good bit. Thankfully it reads 5 gallons lower than it actually is. The only real inconvenience is never knowing how close to empty you really are.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Brake wear depends on how they are used. Heavy use will wear them out early, however, 19K seems a bit soon. I looked at mine at 20k when rotating tires and they are worn down. 25-30K seems more reasonable.
Who posted 80+K on original brakes. I gotta call a bluff on that one, as I have never seen front brakes go past 40K. Rear brakes outlast fronts 2 to one, but not 80 K on front brakes.
My gage is inconsistaint, reminds me of the early 60's Chevy.
When close to empty I still have 4-5 gal. I just use the trip meter and look for fuel aroud 325 miles if on a trip. There is a bubble in the tank too, you have to fill on flat or nose up position or you will be short a gal or so. Do not fill it with the front lower than the rear on a slope.
Lady #1 drives an '87 Ranger. 2WD, V6, Auto,SC.
This truck has 246,000 miles on it. The truck was purchased new and has been used hard since day one. It is constantly driven all over the state visiting friends and relatives. As a weekend warrior, Lady #1 is heavily into landscaping and light construction as well as various home improvement projects. The Ranger serves as her mule for hauling dirt, gravel, lumber, etc. This Ranger always seems to be loaded to capacity. Sure, she can afford and justify a new truck, but as she says, "the Ranger just keeps on running".
Lady #2 owns a '99 Tacoma. 4WD, V6, 5-speed, ex-cab, TRD, loaded. She paid just over 22K for the truck not including the extended warranty. It is a beautiful truck, no doubt about it. But when asked if she ever uses it off-road, her reply is "no, but when I see a gravel road, I wonder what it would be like to drive on it". MOMMA MIA!!! Give me strength. Oh well, as a first big purchase, I guess she just had to have it and bought into the Toyota mystic. It sure is a good commuter vehicle, though...
It was the best of times; it was the worst of times...
OR
bleed the system.
Just turning over 24K on my 99 and have not seen that happen. If the above is not an issue just take it back for a look on your next service.
Your the guy that has the property south of Westcliffe right?
Keep in touch and if you come out again I can show you some of the trails if your interested. If you want, let me know your email, send to Cpousnr@aol.com.
Yes, I'm the one who owns a few acres up in Antelope Valley. I'll send you an e-mail and keep in touch concerning my next visit. I'm anxious to get back. It's heaven up there.
I've added transfer case and fuel tank skid plates to my Mazda. I also installed a KKM True Rev. I really like it. Easy set-up, all sensors remain in place. Nice sound. Aggressive, but not too loud. The engine seems to run smoother and throttle response appears improved.
I'll eventually replace the Firestones with some BFG's before I come up. I'm also considering a cat-back exhaust system.
I've been pleased with my Mazda purchase. The Ranger/B-Series are well built and a good value...
http://www.homestead.com/therangerstation/index.html
There are some great 4X trails down there. So will keep you in mind. Some places you can access in Ranger Mazda have killer views of the Sangre's plus, if interested, the Blue Grouse hunting is fantastic. Ran into an Elk, two wild turkeys and a bunch of snowshoe hares and grouse all in the span of about 20-25 minutes on one trip and no problem with access as long as you have the skid plates, you will bump them. Might want to consider getting some tubing and extend your differential and xfer case vents as high as you can get them for stream crossings.
Was there last weekend for the trees. Most snow was gone at lower elevations and it was in the 50's.
Shocks are after market and the assembly line just adds on the next one out of the box. When they are due for change, maybe 30-35K, I intend to get Rancho 5000's or 9000's. At any rate, a premium upgrade.
As to brakes, like I said, they wear out. 19K is a bit early unless a brake caliper is stuck and dragging. Rotate tires every 5K and check the front brakes at that time. You can view the thickness next to the rotor. If you let them go too thin the cup/puck in the caliper can move out too far and they warp. If you let it go untill you hear the grinding thats way too far. You would not want to hear that sound on a 4X trail 20 miles from a paved road.
So far so good on my 99 XLT. 24K and just 2 minor problems, wipers come on when not switched on and the dome light/door open alarm. One is a module the other a door switch. Last tank was about 21mpg on a trip with some 4 wheeling and mountain driving involved.
Will suggest to everyone that the bumpers scratch easy with a coarse dish plate scratcher. I used one to take off bug remains. Bad choice.
Bought my Ranger 4x4 SC,4.0,5spd Auto, in August. 7900 miles on it now. Just started using the 4x4 with the snow we have been getting.
No big problems. They replaced the gems module and multi-function switch so my wipers would quit coming on as they pleased. The service guy said ford is getting ready to recall a million plus vehicles for this problem. Bad parts from their supplier. The only other thing I've had it in for is brake pull. They touched up the front rotors a bit and it is gone. Makes me wonder why they had to clean up nearly brand new rotors (this was at 4000 miles).
I love the truck. Just wish it got better gas mileage. Only 16mpg right now.
Go to www.kustomz.com to order the KKM. I think
you'll like it. I've got one for my 3.0L. Easy installation, nice sound. I think it has helped throttle response also...
I will get some pics up on my web site of it in-
stalled in the engine compartment so you can see what it looks like. Give me a few days to find them.
The torque value on the 4 bolts is not to exceed 104 inch pounds or you could strip the bolts. the thing fits together without a gasket. I would SUGGEST you leave the bottom of the old air box in to protect against throwing water into the new filter. Also, consider a cleaning kit when you order the filter
I keep hearing vague references to a "chip" for the engine that apparently improves performance, but cannot getany definitive info on this. Any help anyone?
Kurtz Kustom sells a superchip for about $225.
http://www.kustomz.com/
Hope this helps ya.
Also, use http://www.northernlight.com
to search for these things.
A 15% increase in horsepower would get the 2.5L up to about 135HP--within shouting distance of the 3.0L's 145-150HP.
Regards,
Dan
I changed tires to 31X10.5X15 and mileage is 18 in town, 20-21 hwy.
As far as the post of the slow starting, cannot help you. Do not have that problem.
1st- What do you guys think about the bright red ?
2nd- How much difference is there bewteen the 3.0L and the 4.0L engines?
3rd- How much does a fairly basic bra and tonuae cover cost?
4th- How does the ranger compare to the dakota?
Thanks for your responses in advance!
2. The only difference really between the 3.0 and 4.0 is about 10HP. Torque is the big difference, there a difference of 33 ft/lbs of torque. This will depend on what you are going to use the truck for. If you are going to tow, pull, haul, get the 4.0. If you are going to just use the truck as a light hauler, commuter, get the 3.0 5spd. The 3.0 mated to the auto looses power.
Don't put a bra on a truck please!! Get a Lexan bug shield in the smoke color. This will look much, much better and last longer too. There are tons of manufactures out there, my favorites are LUND and GTS.
When comparing a Ranger to a Dakota you are really comparing a midsize to a compact truck. If you are comparing V6 to V6 (4.0 to 3.9) The engines are virtually identical in HP and Torque. Now the V8 Dakota is a whole new ballgame. Frankly the Ford Ranger has a better reliability history than the Dakota. Your dad knows this.
Sounds like a nice deal and truck. But, if you offroad at all get rid of the Firestones Ford puts on the Rangers, they are JUNK! They are a 4ply piece of garbage with a tread pattern of a car tire. Get a P265x75R16 all terrain or a 31" tire put on immediatly. They give the RAnger a whole new look and stance, basically bad to the bone.
I own a 1998 4x4 XLT RAnger SC with the stepside box and a 4.0 5spd, offroad pkg, tow pkg, power pkg, the works in light blue. I use it in the Cascades of Oregon/Washington all the time. Its my second Ranger and I love it. I added nerf bars, spray in liner, K&N air charger kit, chipped. The truck has been great! Hope you enjoy yours.
Thanks for future respnses in advance.
I'm thinking I should get the textured black for the best durability. Thanks
I own a 1985 Ranger 4x4 2.8L V6 5sp LWB with 92K, I'm thinking of getting a new one some time this spring. The truck has been very reliable since I bought it three years ago, it is the first pickup I have owned. I get about 19mpg (20 if I'm lucky) on the highway, w/o tonneau or cap. I'm looking at picking up a cap with the new truck.
I really want a LWB, I hope they're not too hard to find in my area (L.I., NY).
Thanks in advance for any help,
Dan
Take a look at my bug screen:
http://members.aol.com/Cpousnr/index1.html
It is an EGR. I like it cause it is small and you barely see it while driving. $59
I got a TecSport soft tonneau for I think $159. You can sort of see it on the pic. Installed both, it is easy.
Also have Ameriguard spray in liner. Well satisfied, matches the truck color real well. Was $325 when I got it done.
Red? Get the darker red if you do. Watch for oxidation, bad problem with red.
dann:
I got 19-20 in town, 22-23 hwy with the stock tires on a 99 4.0L 4X4 supercab. Went to 31 inch tires and get around 2 mpg less.
Help you guys?
Thanks for your help it really was tookin in to consideration.
Would like to see others rangers post online addresses
Had a 83 Ranger with a cap years ago.
I was traveling in right hand lane on a 2 lane highway when a huge cross wind blew me to the left hand shoulder and into the grassy medium. No damage done.
Lucky there was nobody to my left at the time.
I have the soft bed cover that will roll up next to the cab where you can tie it. I will not do that anymore. It chaffed the clearcoat paint from rubbing and I have 2 spots half dollar size that are dulled out.
I had a bra on my 94 Intrepid and you could see where it was when you took it off for washing the car. Also, if they sand the roads where you are, it collects the sand. Again, that scuffs the clearcoat.
Perhaps if it is the real small one it may be ok but the one that comes up over the hood may be a bad choice.
If you still get it, WAX the paint real well prior to installing.