Hey, any thoughts on how to sell my Ranger? I tried to get onto the auction site at Autobytel, but I can't get past the 'I agree' site-just sends me back to the agreement letter.
My truck,a 1999 4X4 XLT stepside supercab with tow,off-road, power and convience groups listed for $23,405. I put on nerf bars and a great cap with tinted sliding windows. It has has about 6,500 miles. I've looked up wholesale/retail prices here at Edmunds, are they realistic? It list retail at 23,075! Too high! I thought at auction I'd put a reserve around 19.5K Any thought? Any other auction sites? Ideas?
I cannot believe the poor fuel consumption I am getting on this vehicle. 1500 miles so far, 5spd Manual, Reg cab, Long Bed and I am getting 16.5/22 if I am lucky.
Is this what I have to look forward to for the rest of the time I own this vehicle?
I have exceeded the fuel consumption estimates on every vehicle I have owned in the past, generally by three+/- miles both in town and highway.
Is this a problem others have experienced or solved?
Got any accessories on there? I've heard a bug deflector will drop you 1-2 mpg, a visor may drop you another mpg. On the i\highway how fast do you usually go? Above 70mpg the mileage benefits from higher gear ratios at highway speeds are cancelled out on something with the frontal are of a truck by wind drag. Do you keep the tailgate down or usually have it off? Mileage, contrary to what some people assume, is usually lower with it off. There maybe mechanical considerations, in which case you could take it to the dealer, but mileage often does vary from estimates.
You only have 1500 miles on your truck, give it time to break in, about 5k miles would be a good break in. Gearing will also affect MPG, do you have 3.73, or 4.10 gears?
My mileage fluctuated for maybe the first 5K and was low, 16-19. It broke in I guess and went to 19-22/23. You running 245 or 265 tires? That makes a difference as mine dropped some when I added 31 inch tires. Also, I found running cheap regular gets the best mpg. I got maybe 1-2mpg lower with midgrade. However I understand the 3.0 may run better on midgrade. DO NOT LET IT PING.
At maybe 10-15K consider synthetic oil. Engine runs better by my experience and the better oil results in an engine that does not work as hard.
Also, I like others find if you get much above 75mph the gas mileage suffers by maybe 2-3mpg.
Keep the faith, mpg should improve as the vehicle breaks in.
xena1:
Did you say you got the skidplates?
Also, look under the vehicle and figure out how to raise your differential vents. They are on the top of differential and xfer case. Maybe visit a 4X4 place for advice. You will need them up for river crossings on Medano Pass this summer.
Looking forward to meeting you in July. Do you have a cabin on your land or just camp?
Cpousner - Yes, I added transfer case and gas tank skids. I will look at raising the vents that you mentioned. Still checking into better tires. Looks like I will go with the Pirelli Scorpion AT's. I read a very good review of them in 4WD Magazine. Can't wait to get up there. July 1-16 is locked in. No cabin on the property yet. Probably won't be able to build for another 5+ years. Just too tough to coordinate from AZ. Yes, I camp on the property when I'm up there. But I also mix in a few nights at the Westcliffe Inn. I have also stayed at the Alvarado CG. I noticed you got some snow in Denver this past week...
Bitfrog - I've got a Mazda B3000 4WD with a 5-spd manual. It has the same 3.0L engine as yours. This truck gets very respectable MPG. It is rated for 18 city and 21 hiway. Mine gets a little better than that. 20.x MPG all purpose and 22.x MPG for strictly hiway. I run 89 octane (because of pinging) and Mobil1 synthetic oil. I drive fairly conservative, but romp on it when I have to. Seems like your truck should eventually start getting better MPG. Not sure what you have previously driven, but keep in mind that these vehicles aren't known for their outstanding MPG numbers. Good luck with yours. Besides the MPG issue, how do you like it so far?
I have a 1999 Ranger, 4x4 with 3.0 engine and 5-speed manual transmission. It has about 33,000 miles mostly highway commuting.
I am currently using penzoil 5-30 and fram filters. I have been considering synthetic oil and possibly switching filter brands after hearing several negative comments about fram.
Is it to late to switch to synthetic at this mileage ??? What is the best kind of synthetic and what filter should I use ??? Also I have heard one negative about synthetic oil - that it causes oil leaks - is there any truth to this ???
I am looking at purchasing a used 96 Ranger, XLT, Ext. Cab. Does anyone have any feedback on this particular year's model? This vehicle has 60,000 miles and looks like it is in good condition.
xenia: One thing I am considering is maybe a 12X12 Tough Shed to start. My Brother-in-law got one done in Colo Springs for about 2K. It provides cover for weather and can be re-used when I do build.
brewster: I do not THINK 33K is too late. You will notice a difference with synthetic. I use Mobil 1 but there are some brands that say they are for 4x4's. I use the Ford filters right now. Consider synthetic lube in the differentials, trans and xfer case too. Easier on systems in colder weather.
walshe: I THINK I read at carpoint.com, the comparison section, that there was an engine problem with the 95-96 Ranger. You might want to check there first.
edharri3 - I have a Glasstite camper shell and don't do a lot of highway, it's true when I do that it is 75 mph+
vince8 - It is the 3.73 I will keep tracking mpg as mileage increases.
Xena1/1a - Interesting, the break-in is a recurring theme. The tires are 225, I live at 5000'+ and always use the mid range 88 octane that is available here, no pinging allowed. I'll look into the synthetic. Otherwise, I'm really happy with the truck and consider it great value for the money. Thanks
I have been looking into "Superchips." if their claims are true, this could be an inexpensive way to power/torque. Anyone had any experience here?
The chips help but only at Higher RPMs,(In around 3rd gear for me) also at todays gas prices you must run premium. Ouch, I took mine out about a month ago. walshe, have it throughly inspected by a mechanice you can trust. Also sounds like timing belt time at 60K.
I'd hate to see you waste your hard-earned cash on the Scorpion tires. They're horrible--noisy, poor mud traction, uneven wear. The new BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO tires are great off road. They redesigned them to have (among other things) the tread extending up the sidewall and a rim protector at the bead. They are the one of the few light truck tires with a 3-ply sidewall (Triguard) and you can buy a 31x10.50R15 for $99. And they look boss. Just thought I'd add my 2 cents. I sell most major brands and I've never seen customers so vehemontly despise their tires as in the case of Pirelli-Armstrong, a second rate company still swinging off the momentum they gained in the '70s.
I post this question for a friend of mine, who is considering a ranger.
The question is : are the jump seats at the back of the extended designed for use by adults ? Can someone really sit back there for a 30 minutes ride ?
Appreciate if some ranger owners can share their real life experience.
I've had my Ranger for about 5 years, and I'd say they are good for about 20 minutes tops. There just isn't a lot of room back there. Not only are you cramped, but your sitting in an odd position. I'd say the best bet is to avoid it if at all possible.
The seats are handy in an emergency. However, I don't think I would like a steady diet of sitting back there. Shoulder and hip room can feel kind of tight. However, because of the configuration of the seats, leg room is not as bad as I thought it would be...
What is the problem with building safety features on pickups? Ford (and everyone else) is terrified of building things like side bags into the trucks, but they fall all over themselves imitating Dodge's ugly snout look. Fat lot of good the front-end styling is if you roll over down an embankment into a river in the winter. C'mon you emasculated Ford executives, admit it: your trucks get into accidents; accidents hurt your customers. We don't like it. Do something about it.
The Ranger has the BEST crash ratings in the Compact Pickup class. That's an important safety feature. As far as side air bags, yea, that would be nice. But consider the Jeep Wrangler. You get T-Boned in that vehicle and you're dead. And anybody that rolls over an embankment into the river in the winter is in BIG trouble, no matter what kind of vehicle they are driving...
If you saw how most airbag inflators worked you wouldn't even want one in front of you, let alone the side. I've worked on equipment that builds both passenger side front inflators and side impact inflators. It gave me a new outlook on them.
Personally I would rather have a nice heavy cross-beam in the door.
I read your post about the brake pull on your Ranger, I went back to the dealer and told them about your problem and how they fixed it. They told me that they called in a Ford engineer. He found nothing wrong, So they listened to what I told them about you truck. They changed the rotors and pads. The truck is fixed. Thank You.
I purchased a 2000 4X4 Ranger with the 4 litre engine, 5 speed auto and 4.21 final gear ratio. Gas mileage is the pits. I have averaged 11-13 in the city and 16-17 on the highway. The truck currently has 1700 miles. Can I expect better mileage as the engine breaks in or is this the best I will get?
Also, has anyone with this engine experienced blue smoke after sitting at a stop light and then accelerating away. I have seem this two times, have had the truck to the dealer and they claim nothing is wrong.
I noticed that the idler between the alternator and A/C appears to have some noticeable play in it. I dont hear any bearing noise or anything like that when the engine is running. Should there be play in the idler like this - or is there a problem ????
I have a 2000 Ranger w/3000 miles. It's a 4cyl, 2.4L. It idles pretty rough and after 75mph it bogs. The gas mileage for highway's been only around 20. The dealer says it's okay and maybe needs to just break in. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Give your engines time to break in folks. The 4.0 with the 4.11 gears, you will never see great mileage with those gears. Should have gone to a 3.73 gear. 4.11's are for heavy towing, hauling and so on.... I would guess you mean a 2.5 cyl. I just hope you are taking it easy with these engines for the first 5K miles minimum. This period is very important on how the rest of the life of the engine will turn out.
vince8, I know that you dislike the stock firestone tires on the Ranger. I'm about to purchase my third Ranger (90, 94 previous). I can't justify a 4wd but I do occasionally partake in some mild offroad. What size can I upgrade to without a lift or rubbing?
Travisml, if you have 16" rims on your Ranger a P265x75R16 will fit fine underneath with no rubbing. Believe me tires make a huge difference when offroading. The Firestones just don't cut the cake in this department. If you have the 15" rim a 30" tire or even a 31" tire will fit fine too. This will make your truck look totally different. It will make the Ranger stand taller and give it a more agressive stance. Some tire stores will give you a trade in value on your tires if they are still relativly new also. I went to Discount Tires. The guy thought the 265's would not fit, after putting them on and turning the tires even he was surprised. The bumpstops clear fine also. I continue to make the suggestion to all Ranger owners with a 4x4 to get rid of those Firejunkers!! They are not for offroad purposes and don't do the Ranger justice.
Yes!, slidtop tonneu covers. I have a stepside bed and don't want to make it any smaller than it already is. A slidtop tonneu cover with a lock seems to be my best bet. Hope to be purchasing by this summer.
Anyone out there have the 3.0L 5sp 4x2? What kind of MPG city/hwy are you getting? It is rated at 18/23.
I'm running an old Ranger 4x4, I'm lucky to get 19mpg hwy (otherwise great truck). If the 3.0L 4x2s really get 23MPG (better with tonneau and light foot?), it might be worth upgrading to a 2000. Otherwise, I'm going to check out the new 2.3L 4cyl in the 2001--or maybe the 2001 3.0L will be tweaked for better MPG?
I'm in no rush, my ol' 1985 Ranger just keeps running and running.
Fredfred3- I saw an add on TV yesterday advertising $1500 rebates on the Ranger. I didn't notice whether they were offering a low interest rate instead. Get that Ranger!
Check out http://www.carsdirect.com for some interesting prices. If you're looking for a 4x4, make sure to check the Mazda B3000 too...right now, a better deal than the Ranger.
Seems like you should be able to get a great deal on a 2000 Ranger during year-end clearance before they bring in the new 2001's that have the SOHC 4.0L upgrade...
I'm just going for a base model with the 5 spd so I am not sure how great of a deal I will get since the markup doesn't seem to be very high. I'm assuming that any big savings will come from the rebate and by (hopefully) not paying that bogus advertising fee (do Ford dealers charge this?) When are the 2001 models due out?
Current rebate with Ford financing is $500 or $1000 back and get your own financing. I hope they do better soon. My 2000 is scheduled to be built 5/1 and delivered around Labor Day. I got the super cab, 5.0, 5 spd auto, 4 door, sport,power and conv groups, tow pkg, everything but the step bar. Vince8, thanks for the word on tires, I'll get rid of them the day after I pick it up. It'll give me time to find a tire dealer willing to trade.
To comment on the discussion of the 4.0 engine 'noise' problem. I had a good experience with a '95 4.0, ran perfect until wrecked at 66k miles. My '98 is a different story. I have had THREE new engines installed to replace the original that came with the truck, making FOUR engines total in the first 32k miles. The Ford factory engine rep has determined that the truck can not be fixed and we are currently going through the process to see what they will do to get me out of the truck. The problem is that carbon builds up in the cylinder do to the design , then the carbon comes lose, knocking around making it sound like a diesel. A decarboning was the first factor fix, this worked for about 500 miles, then returned. I would suggest if you have this problem you do your best to give the truck back, do whatever it takes to get out of the truck, never have it rebuilt, it can not be fixed. Ford knows what the problem is, you just need them to admit to it.
I will let the group know what happens when this is resolved.
vice8 is correct on tires. 265X16 and 31X10.5X15 are the max without a lift. I have run BF Goodrich AT KO's in 31X10.5 for the last 12,000 miles with no problems. I would caution anyone that the 3.73 rearend is about as low as you want to go with a tire like that. 4.10 would be more desirable. MPG dropped about 2-3 when I went with the bigger tires to 17.5-18.5 in town, 21-22 on the highway (keeping it under 75). I have the 4.0 with manual trans and 3.73 rearend.
xena1a: You looked at Peerless tires? They make one with a simular tread pattern to the BFG's and I think it is called the FORCE or FORCE4.
My own opinion, someone would have to steal my BFG's before I get rid of them. They are that good in my opinion. Not cheap but an excellent tire.
Westcliffe was hot last weekend(got sum burned) and not, in my opinion, a lot of snow.
Took a picture(Sangre's in the background) , will post when the roll is done, of my truck with full 200 gal water tank (tank 70lb, water @ 8.333 lb per gallon was 1,660 lb, some stuff for planting trees (~ 25lb) and me and the wife for maybe an additional 350+ lb. So total cargo in a truck rated for 1260lb was in excess of 2,000 lb. Truck ran fine, a little sluggish on acceleration but ran fine. Would not recommend doing that every day though!
Luckily I already arranged my own financing through my credit union, so that will be good for me. Did you have to pay an "advertising fee?" And, if so, how much are they charging?
On the dealer invoice, Ford charges a thing they call a FDAF Assessment of $145. That is charged to the dealer and built into the sticker price. Don't let the dealer charge you for advertising, since they get a 3% hold back from Ford to cover overhead, which includes advertising. This hold back is paid to the dealer every quarter and it is 3% of the MSRP sticker price, not the dealer cost, on every vehicle they order. Ford also is charging $12.60 for 7 gal of gas. That works out to $1.80 a gallon Have the dealer print out a Vehicle Order Confirmation showing the dealer cost AND the retail cost. It will show you pretty much what the dealer pays so you can haggle from there. My dealer charges $295 over dealer invoice with no extra charges. If the dealer won't print it out for you, let me know and I will scan my copy and e mail it to you. Good luck
Welcome back. Know you've been busy... No, I haven't checked into the Peerless tires. Tireguy talked me out of the Pirellis a while back. I've decided to go with the BFG's. I can afford them. I guess I just hate the thought of leaving so much of the tread on the Interstate during my trips between AZ and CO.
Comments
My truck,a 1999 4X4 XLT stepside supercab with tow,off-road, power and convience groups listed for $23,405. I put on nerf bars and a great cap with tinted sliding windows. It has has about 6,500 miles. I've looked up wholesale/retail prices here at Edmunds, are they realistic? It list retail at 23,075! Too high! I thought at auction I'd put a reserve around 19.5K Any thought? Any other auction sites? Ideas?
Is this what I have to look forward to for the rest of the time I own this vehicle?
I have exceeded the fuel consumption estimates on every vehicle I have owned in the past, generally by three+/- miles both in town and highway.
Is this a problem others have experienced or solved?
My mileage fluctuated for maybe the first 5K and was low, 16-19. It broke in I guess and went to 19-22/23. You running 245 or 265 tires? That makes a difference as mine dropped some when I added 31 inch tires.
Also, I found running cheap regular gets the best mpg. I got maybe 1-2mpg lower with midgrade. However I understand the 3.0 may run better on midgrade. DO NOT LET IT PING.
At maybe 10-15K consider synthetic oil. Engine runs better by my experience and the better oil results in an engine that does not work as hard.
Also, I like others find if you get much above 75mph the gas mileage suffers by maybe 2-3mpg.
Keep the faith, mpg should improve as the vehicle breaks in.
xena1:
Did you say you got the skidplates?
Also, look under the vehicle and figure out how to raise your differential vents. They are on the top of differential and xfer case. Maybe visit a 4X4 place for advice. You will need them up for river crossings on Medano Pass this summer.
Looking forward to meeting you in July. Do you have a cabin on your land or just camp?
Yes, I added transfer case and gas tank skids. I will look at raising the vents that you mentioned. Still checking into better tires. Looks like I will go with the Pirelli Scorpion AT's. I read a very good review of them in 4WD Magazine.
Can't wait to get up there. July 1-16 is locked in. No cabin on the property yet. Probably won't be able to build for another 5+ years. Just too tough to coordinate from AZ. Yes, I camp on the property when I'm up there. But I also mix in a few nights at the Westcliffe Inn. I have also stayed at the Alvarado CG. I noticed you got some snow in Denver this past week...
Bitfrog -
I've got a Mazda B3000 4WD with a 5-spd manual. It has the same 3.0L engine as yours. This truck gets very respectable MPG. It is rated for 18 city and 21 hiway. Mine gets a little better than that. 20.x MPG all purpose and 22.x MPG for strictly hiway. I run 89 octane (because of pinging) and Mobil1 synthetic oil. I drive fairly conservative, but romp on it when I have to. Seems like your truck should eventually start getting better MPG. Not sure what you have previously driven, but keep in mind that these vehicles aren't known for their outstanding MPG numbers. Good luck with yours. Besides the MPG issue, how do you like it so far?
I am currently using penzoil 5-30 and fram filters. I have been considering synthetic oil and possibly switching filter brands after hearing several negative comments about fram.
Is it to late to switch to synthetic at this mileage ??? What is the best kind of synthetic and what filter should I use ??? Also I have heard one negative about synthetic oil - that it causes oil leaks - is there any truth to this ???
Thanks in advance.
Ext. Cab. Does anyone have any feedback on this particular year's model? This vehicle has 60,000 miles and looks like it is in good condition.
One thing I am considering is maybe a 12X12 Tough Shed to start. My Brother-in-law got one done in Colo Springs for about 2K. It provides cover for weather and can be re-used when I do build.
brewster:
I do not THINK 33K is too late. You will notice a difference with synthetic. I use Mobil 1 but there are some brands that say they are for 4x4's. I use the Ford filters right now. Consider synthetic lube in the differentials, trans and xfer case too. Easier on systems in colder weather.
walshe:
I THINK I read at carpoint.com, the comparison section, that there was an engine problem with the 95-96 Ranger. You might want to check there first.
edharri3 - I have a Glasstite camper shell and don't do a lot of highway, it's true when I do that it is 75 mph+
vince8 - It is the 3.73 I will keep tracking mpg as mileage increases.
Xena1/1a - Interesting, the break-in is a recurring theme. The tires are 225, I live at 5000'+ and always use the mid range 88 octane that is available here, no pinging allowed. I'll look into the synthetic. Otherwise, I'm really happy with the truck and consider it great value for the money. Thanks
I have been looking into "Superchips." if their claims are true, this could be an inexpensive way to power/torque. Anyone had any experience here?
walshe, have it throughly inspected by a mechanice you can trust. Also sounds like timing belt time at 60K.
The question is : are the jump seats at the back of the extended designed for use by adults ? Can someone really sit back there for a 30 minutes ride ?
Appreciate if some ranger owners can share their real life experience.
Ford (and everyone else) is terrified of building
things like side bags into the trucks, but they
fall all over themselves imitating Dodge's ugly
snout look. Fat lot of good the front-end styling
is if you roll over down an embankment into a
river in the winter.
C'mon you emasculated Ford executives, admit it:
your trucks get into accidents; accidents hurt
your customers. We don't like it. Do something
about it.
Personally I would rather have a nice heavy cross-beam in the door.
Also, has anyone with this engine experienced blue smoke after sitting at a stop light and then accelerating away. I have seem this two times, have had the truck to the dealer and they claim nothing is wrong.
Thanks!
Thanks in advance
The 4.0 with the 4.11 gears, you will never see great mileage with those gears. Should have gone to a 3.73 gear. 4.11's are for heavy towing, hauling and so on....
I would guess you mean a 2.5 cyl. I just hope you are taking it easy with these engines for the first 5K miles minimum. This period is very important on how the rest of the life of the engine will turn out.
I'm running an old Ranger 4x4, I'm lucky to get 19mpg hwy (otherwise great truck). If the 3.0L 4x2s really get 23MPG (better with tonneau and light foot?), it might be worth upgrading to a 2000. Otherwise, I'm going to check out the new 2.3L 4cyl in the 2001--or maybe the 2001 3.0L will be tweaked for better MPG?
I'm in no rush, my ol' 1985 Ranger just keeps running and running.
Thanks, Dan
I saw an add on TV yesterday advertising $1500 rebates on the Ranger. I didn't notice whether they were offering a low interest rate instead. Get that Ranger!
(The B3000 is a rebadged Ranger.)
Good luck!
Vince8, thanks for the word on tires, I'll get rid of them the day after I pick it up. It'll give me time to find a tire dealer willing to trade.
'95 4.0, ran perfect until wrecked at 66k miles.
My '98 is a different story. I have had THREE new engines installed to replace the original that came with the truck, making FOUR engines total in the first 32k miles. The Ford factory engine rep has determined that the truck can not be fixed and we are currently going through the process to see what they will do to get me out of the truck. The problem is that carbon builds up in the cylinder do to the design , then the carbon comes lose, knocking around making it sound like a diesel. A decarboning was the first factor fix, this worked for about 500 miles, then returned. I would suggest if you have this problem you do your best to give the truck back, do whatever it takes to get out of the truck, never have it rebuilt, it can not be fixed. Ford knows what the problem is, you just need them to admit to it.
I will let the group know what happens when this is resolved.
xena1a:
You looked at Peerless tires? They make one with a simular tread pattern to the BFG's and I think it is called the FORCE or FORCE4.
My own opinion, someone would have to steal my BFG's before I get rid of them. They are that good in my opinion. Not cheap but an excellent tire.
Westcliffe was hot last weekend(got sum burned) and not, in my opinion, a lot of snow.
Took a picture(Sangre's in the background) , will post when the roll is done, of my truck with full 200 gal water tank (tank 70lb, water @ 8.333 lb per gallon was 1,660 lb, some stuff for planting trees (~ 25lb) and me and the wife for maybe an additional 350+ lb. So total cargo in a truck rated for 1260lb was in excess of 2,000 lb. Truck ran fine, a little sluggish on acceleration but ran fine.
Would not recommend doing that every day though!
Ford also is charging $12.60 for 7 gal of gas. That works out to $1.80 a gallon
Have the dealer print out a Vehicle Order Confirmation showing the dealer cost AND the retail cost. It will show you pretty much what the dealer pays so you can haggle from there. My dealer charges $295 over dealer invoice with no extra charges. If the dealer won't print it out for you, let me know and I will scan my copy and e mail it to you. Good luck