I wholey agree on the tire issue. Ford puts junk tires on their Rangers. I also got rid of the 4ply Firejunkers and plead that anyone doing any offroading do the same. Tires make a huge difference on how a truck will perform offroad. Tires will also make the Ranger look totally different. I have P265x75R16 8ply allterrains on my Ranger and the stance and ground clearance improved 10fold. I use my Ranger in the NW Cascade mountains of Oregon/Washington. Beleive me tires make a huge difference. The Ranger is able to accept 30" and 31" tires now, along with 265's.
Well if the dealer doesn't fix your radio then I guess you always have two options....u can either get an aftermarket radio, or u can just go to radioshack, and buy u a capacitor and put it in parallel with the power source of your radio and that should fix the speaker noise that u are hearing....
I am planning on getting a 2k Ranger SC soon. I am trading in an 87 Mazda SE5 with a 5sp 2L, which I bought new. I have pulled trailers and hauled things in it many times (even up and down mountains) with no problems, other than a bit of slow going at times due to the extra weight. Does anyone out there have any experience with the Ranger SC with a 5sp manual in a 2.5L instead of the 3.0? What kind of mileage does the 2.5 get in the SC version as opposed to the 3.0? Does the extra weight of the SC load down the 2.5 too much? I tend to do a lot of distance driving and some mountain driving, so some extra gas mileage would be helpful.
I have ordered (not received) a Mazda B3000 Cab+4, 2wd, 3.0L, manual transmission. I have some questions that will begin with: where can I get technical data on this vehicle (as a Ranger twin)? also... Why does Mazda list 143hp for the 3.0 Ford engine while Ford lists 150hp? Same differential with the torque listing. Why does the Mazda appear to sit higher? Are there differences in the suspension? What is the maximum trailer weight, equipped with nothing other than a class 3 hitch? Any other differences?
I have looked and bugged the dealer as much as I care to at this point. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
Firebug, I have a 99 Ranger 2.5L 5spd supercab and I get about 20 mpg. But that is almost 100% city driving, and I do have a lead foot. The 2.5L is fine around town, just not very quick at all. But on the highway once you get up to 70-75 mph, the engine sounds like it's working really hard. I don't have a tach so I don't know what the rpm is at that speed.
I am ready to buy a y2k Ranger XLT 4x4 w/the 4.0 & 5 spd A/T. Will I have any (ANY) problems towing a tandem trailer with a 21 ft 3900 lb boat. The trailer is equipped with brakes. Please respond if you have had experience with a similar size load. Thanks !!!!!!!!!!
Don't how far you intend to tow your boat or if you have hills and/or high elevation to contend with. I have towed a similar truck with an F-150, 302 engine and 4-speed manual - that truck hauled the boat easily and was probably about the right size with the right engine for the job. I have also had a Ranger with 4.0 and 5-speed automatic. Personally, I thought it was underpowered. Guess it depends on a lot of factors - I like to be able to tow something at highway speeds and at high elevation with enough power to handle the load. (Your boat weighs almost as much as your truck.)
dwfmills, I put a flip-up sunroof in my supercab Ranger, and it fits great. Looking at the fit, I suspect that the same size sunroof could possibly fit into a standard cab, though it might be better to install a smaller sunroof. Mine is 17" x 31", I believe.
If anyone is interested, I'm looking to sell my 98 Ranger, 4x4 Off-Road supercab. High miles (50,000), but I've never had a single problem (besides the stupid transmission, which was completely replaced at 36k miles). I love this model and already have my 2000 edition picked out, but I just can't stand driving a manual transmission in a large city (Minneapolis) during rush hour. Check out my posting at http://www.carsoup.com/UsedVehicles/detail.asp?uvid=256977
After years of driving a compact sedan, I am considering buying a Ranger XLT 4 banger with air. What is a decent price for a base XLT with air? How reliable have yours been? Is the 4 cylinder powerful enough for the weight of the truck? Any info would be appreciated, thanks
Changes include the new 4.0 and 2.3L OHC engines, standard 4-wheel ABS and tach on all models, some options no longer available, new colors, etc. Go Ranger!
Saturnboy, the 3.0 isn't much more than the 2.5 as far as cost wise, maybe about $300. I would opt for the 3.0 V6, more power, torque and response. Otherwise, here in the NW region they sell 4x2 Ranger 2.5 XLT supercabs for about 12K new...
I just checked out the new 2001 Ranger at www.blueovalnews.com. I think it is much more apealing to the eye, and it is said to have engine and ride enhancements. Does anyone know will it be available around june of 2001? OR will it be coming out later in 2001 as a 2002 model? My lease is up in 6/2001 and the new Ranger would be a perfect fit for me. What's everyone think?
Some of the information seemed unclear at www.blueovalnews.com, It is said that.....The Edge - Sporty and Youthful
Designed to appeal to buyers seeking a cool-looking truck with features to
support their active work and leisure needs, Ranger's new Edge series
features bold new styling. Key features include:
· Power dome hood
· Monochromatic exterior color treatment
· 4x2 or 4x4 drivetrain - 4x2 drivetrain features same ride height as 4x4
· Standard 3.0-liter V-6 engine with manual transmission
· 4.0-liter SOHC V-6 with automatic transmission available
· Standard painted silver styled wheels; available 16-inch five spoke
aluminum wheels and 245 OWL A/T tires
· Front tow hooks
· Optional bed extender
· Pickup box rail protectors
· Washable flooring
· CD radio standard and optional in-dash six disc CD changer available
Is Ford going to continue thier current style Ranger, and offer a Seperate "EDGE" series pickup? Or will all 2001/2002 Rangers have the "EDGE" styling?
That the 2001 Rangers will be in the showrooms sometime in September. The EDGE isn't really a separate Ranger. It's more like a 3rd trim level. The main difference with it appears to be the monochromatic color schemes of the fenders and wheel flairs. The XL and XLT levels will still be available and they will also receive the same "freshened" front-end styling. If you don't have your heart set on a 2001 with one of the new engine choices, you might want to check into a 2000 with the 3.0L. You should be able to get a nice deal on one. Check out the Mazda B-Series as well. I've got a '99 B3000 4WD with a manual tranny and I've been very happy with it...
P.S. - My B3000 is listed as a flexible fuel vehicle. However, I have never used the alternative fuel...
Xena1a, Thanks for the info. Do you know around how much the new "EDGE" series would cost? Will it be much more then a regular XLT? I like the idea of a standard V6 in the "EDGE" ranger, but don't really need it. I simply want it for the new styling and known Ranger dependability. I will probably choose a XLT 4 banger with a flair box, in black would be nice. I have to wait for a 2001 model Ranger, because my current car is leased and isn't up till 6/2001
Haven't heard any specifics on the price of the EDGE as compared to the XLT for 2001. I would assume it will be a little more costly, being that it will apparently be the top trim level. Much of it will depend on how it is optioned out. That is one of the strengths of the Ranger. You can get exactly what you want. 3 engine choices, manual or auto, 2WD regular or Trailhead, 4WD with or without offroad package, tow package, different rear ends, LSD, convenience package, power package. The list goes on and on. Did I mention super cab or regular cab? 2 or 4 doors? Amazing... By June of 2001, the initial demand for the new Ranger will probably have subsided a bit and you should be able to get a nice XLT with a 4 banger for a decent price. I would agree with Vince8, however, and recommend that you at least drive one with the 3.0L engine. In fact, you could take a test drive right now, that particular engine remains the same for 2001. If you decide on the new 4 cyl (2.3L?) do your research and be wary of any possible 1st year problems. I believe that engine is brand new for 2001. I'm anxious for 2001's myself. Many of us Ranger and B-Series types are dying to drive one with the SOHC 4.0L. If the performance is as expected, I may be upgrading to a new truck next summer myself. Keep us informed of your decisions. I feel you're making a good choice here. Rangers take a lot of bashing in the various compact pickup topics. But I tell you what, they are well built, and a good value. There's a reason why you see so many of them...
Well, Im kind of biased, my dad has a 1997 Ranger XLT with air/cd player/flair box/silver wheels/ which he paid 12k for new. Im looking for something exactly the same, however a different color. I was just checking out inventory at local dealerships in NY tonight, they seem to have alot of XLT's with auto, V6, and air. Their all around 15-18k. I only want to spend 14k max. The Ranger is the best selling compact pickup in america, they sold 350,000 in 1999. They also have above average reliability, something I like also
I've just taken delivery of my '00 B3000 manual tran, and it it unbelievably stiff. It's loosened up some in the first 200 miles, but wow...
The 3.0L is the same in the Ford and Mazda - both are flex fuel capable. I am still wondering why sales literature from both companies list the hp rating (143hs MAZ vs. 150hp FOR) differently. So far, seems adequate, though.
There is a hole for a tow ball in the bumper and there is a plate that is bolted to the frame under the rear bumper. Is this all I need to tow up to mfg ratings, or do I need a receiver hitch?
I want to switch to a synthetic motor oil. Any suggestions on when I should do this? I usually change oil at the first 2000 miles for my new cars. I've got <250 miles at this time. Still smells good...
3.0L Engine: Congrats on your new B3000. Is it a 4x4? Does it have the heavy-duty Payload Package suspension? This might explain the stiffness. Some trucks with heavy-duty suspensions are actually smoother with +500 pounds in the bed.
Saturnboy: Regular-cab 4x2 XLT 3.0L flareside automatics currently start at about $13.5 on http://www.carsdirect.com. If nothing else, you can use this info. to bargain with your dealer. You can get that down to $12K if you like the 5sp (better MPG, cheaper) and can live without the flareside. Xcabs are about $1500 more--make sure you need the Xtra space before spending the Xtra money.
Congrats on the B3000. I've got a '99 4WD with a manual and I've been pleased so far. When you say "stiff", do you mean the transmission or the suspension? I recently converted to synthetic oil. I'm running Mobil1 10W-30. I did wait until the engine had 10,000 miles on it before switching. I don't know that this is necessary, but I would wait until at least the 2nd oil change to give the engine a chance to break-in. I will say that out of all the modifications I've done to my B3000 (added a KKM Tru Rev induction kit and a cat-back exhaust), changing to the Mobil1 had the most noticable effects. The engine seems to run a bit smoother with a few less RPM's. I also noticed a solid 1 MPG increase. I guess those fewer RPM's all add up. Good luck with your B3000. I think the B-Series are one of the nicest looking compacts on the market. Keep us updated...
My girlfriend bought a new car yesterday, the sales guy said not to use synthetic, it will void the warranty. Check with Ford and see what they say about synthetic oil.
I'm looking at a 95 Ranger Splash for my first truck, because im getting my liscecnce in a few months. There ias only one problem withthe truck i'm looking at. It has 100,201 miles on it. The price isn't too bad at 7300, but i was just wondering how many miles will i get out of a truck that already has 100000? Thanks for any help.
The stepsides are more popular and will fetch a tad higher price. 7300 seems a bit high. Go to Kelly Blue book and see what the price is. As far as miles, 100K is alot. Timing belt is ready to be changed for sure. Have it looked over with a fine tooth comb by a mechanic you trust the money spent could save you thousands.
I purchased my new Ranger XLT 2WD SuperCab Plus 5 speed Manual, 3.0 V6 Engine, on May 21, 2000. The next day it stalled on me 7 times at red lights. The stalling occurs when I'm in neutral sitting at a red light. I returned it to the dealer that evening and they couldn't find the problem. I drove it home and it's been stalling ever since. I also noticed that when I start the truck up after it's been sitting over night in a garage, or if it's been sitting for more than four hours, a HUGE BIG cloud of white smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe. It's at the dealer again May 30th, and this time the service manager was able to witness the white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Does anyone have a clue as to what maybe wrong with my new truck? I'm really annoyed and sick about it. Also, does anyone know about the Lemon Law In California? Thanks for your help and I look forward to hearing from anyone.
you're burning coolant, just as consistent grey or black smoke means you're burning oil. Intermittent?....
If there is a pinhole leak(s) in the head gasket, that could put coolant leaking into the cylinder(s) overnight and/or at a stoplight. Have you been checking your coolant levels? Good luck!
Front Porch Philosopher SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
Meredith, it only appears after the truck has been sitting there over night or for several hours. It's not consistent. The dealership hooks the truck up to all these wires and gadgets. And they can't seem to figure out what's wrong. Do you think they'd be able to find this "pinhole" with their "check-up" procedures? Also, the dealership filled the tank up with their gas. Do you think their gas maybe causing the truck to smoke and stall? Thanks for your reply. :-)
Help! My Ranger is still stalling! I picked my Ranger up from the dealer today and everything was fine until I filled the tank up with gas this evening. It stalled on me twice. Once in neutral and once while I was in 2nd gear making a right hand turn. My wrist is still sore from the steering wheel locking me on when I made the turn. I quickly had to re-start the truck in order to release the steering wheel or I would have ran right into the median. Ouch! The gas gauge also goes crazy when I put it in neutral when I'm coming to a stop. signed: An unhappy Ford owner.
When I picked up my Ranger from the dealer they said they couldn't find anything wrong with the truck. They suggested I put 1,000 miles on it in order to break in the catalitic converter. Does this seem right? I've never heard of breaking in a vehicle. Also, White smoke is still coming out of the exhaust pipe after it's been sitting for a couple of hours. Any suggestions or advice? signed: An unhappy Ford owner.
howdy all!! I just picked up my '00 ranger supercab last week. We took the truck to California from Utah for vacation. The truck seemed to be doing well until we got to the mountains near Reno. As I was climbing some of the hills I noticed cars like the Toyota Echo and worse yet the Geo Metro were passing me up these hills. I have the 3.0 and 5 speed manual. I would drop down to 4th gear while climbing the hills and I couldn't get the truck above 65 mph. I had the pedal to the floor and it wouldn't go any faster yet these cars with half the engines were zipping past me. Now I would expect a brand new truck to do quite better than some of the older model cars that were flying past me. Has anyone else had the same problems? I thought that putting the higher octane gas would help but as we went up King's Canyon I had 92 octane and still didn't have much zip. Is there something wrong with my truck or is it really just that gutless? Also at 90+ mph the truck makes an awful vibration noise! and it doesn't seem like tire noise at all. Well I would like to hear if anyone else is having these problems. So if you are reading these posts hoping to buy a new ranger yourself I would suggest you get the bigger engine.
well liz, I own a 98 mazda B2500 5 spd, same thing as the ranger, excecpt I have the 2.5L 4-cyl. Maybe the reason it stalls is that you are having trouble driving a 5 spd, no no I'm just kidding, but I have 18,000 miles and every now and then when I come to a red light or just stop anywheres my RPM's drop very low as in the engine shakes and is about to kill but it doesnt, it pops right back up to its normal idle. It has always done this, I have never gotten it checked out, but I plan to sometime. My truck has never made a white cloud of smoke though. If you find out anything about it I would be happy if you would post it. Thanks
My personal opinion is the dealer is giving you a bunch of cr.....! The computers on vehicles these days store all kinds of data and error codes.... They should be able to tell what is wrong with you Ranger pretty doggone quick. I had my check engine light come on, took it in and they found out it was the gas cap in what seemed like minutes... Take it to another dealer quick.
Thanks for all your responses to my problem. The whole scenario just makes me sick to my stomach and I shouldn't be having this problem on a brand new vehicle, right? Anyway, I'll take your suggestions and I'll let you know what happens. In the mean time, if anyone wants to contact me, here's my E-mail address: Queenlegs@aol.com
FYI: to Tacoma_trd, I've been driving a stick since 1969. I learned to drive a car with the stick on the column. (Geez, Am I dating myself or what?!?!?!) All my other vehicles have been 5 speeds, and foreign made to boot, so I think I have a handle on driving a 5 speed. This is my first American made vehicle and I'm not to sure if I like it or not. Thanks again and enjoy!
1. Are you checking the coolant level regularly? if it's burning coolant, you should see a noticeable drop after a short period of time. A purely mechanical problem like a leak in a head gasket will NOT show up on the computer.
2. Gas gauge going crazy.... Any other electrical issues? Tach bouncing around, etc?
3. Do NOT assume that this is a SINGLE problem. You MAY have the misfortune of several small problems adding together.
4. After a break-in, some problems will go away. Sounds like the dealer is praying for this! I assume you have power steering? Power steering without power is like BAD manual steering, BUT the steering column should NOT lock in place?
5. TOO many dealer "mechanics" cannot diagnose what the computer cannot find. They will frequently start replacing parts from one end to the other to try and find something by accident. Find a mechanics shop where they both have the newest SUN or comparable diagnostic equipment, AND know what a carbureator is and how to work on one. THEN you have competent people looking at your car.
TRUE STORY:
I had an intermittent fault in an '87 Cherokee for about 8 years, it would periodicly "skip" like the clutch had momentarily disengaged. Initially this only occurred at highway speeds, but late it declined to occurring in the 25 mph range even. The dealer could not duplicate the problem.... but they replaced my computer at a cost of $1100.... and the problem still recurred....
Now.... Jeeps are known for electrical issues, particularly as they age.... In January, this vehicle began arbitrarily just dying on me. When it died, it would strand me beside the road for between 15 and 45 minutes. Engine would crank fine, but it wouldn't catch. Happened 4 times. My mechanics, otherwise a fairly reliable lot, could neither find nor duplicate the problem....
I bought a Haynes manual for this vehicle, and a Chiltons and read both thoroughly. Then I replaced the coil/ECU and the fuel pump relay for about $175 in parts and 30 minutes work. The problem has, so far (4 weeks), not recurred.
Hang in there!
Front Porch Philosopher SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
On auto tranny cars, huge clouds of white smoke can mean that the engine is burning auto tranny fluid. This actually happened to me years ago. A seal in the auto tranny blew out, letting a vacuum hose suck tranny fluid into the engine.
In the old days, there were no vacuum hoses on manual trannies. So I don't think this helps your problem. But maybe there are some vacuum hoses on some of today's 5sp trucks? I don't know for sure, my own 5sp Ranger is a 1985!
Just stopped by from Focus forum. Saw post on salesman saying Synthetic Oil voiding warranity. Check with the Service Mgr. I don't think the salesman has a clue about warranities and synthetic oil. Never heard of such a thing, provided the oil is changed at specified intervals and is of right service rating.
Lizbetty, sorry to hear about the problems you are having with your new Ranger. I know how trying that can be. I am having a few too, although not as severe, and wonder if anyone can offer advice.
1. Paint Problems. I think I mentioned this before. The paint on the tailgate looks terrible in the sun. It is the metallic gold color and one side looks lighter than the other, almost like you can see the strokes where the paint was airbrushed on. I first noticed it about two days after I took delivery, after the sun came out following a two day rain. I pointed it out to the salesman who told me that it would be fixed. But the body shop manager later said that there is nothing wrong with it, that it is a chaacteristic of metallic paint. An independent body shop tells me otherwise, that the paint is flawed, perhaps even it was repainted in just that area for some reason. I tried calling Ford Customer Service Center. The only thing they tell me is that workmanship is not covered under warranty. Should I continue to fight with the dealership over this or should I just go and have it repainted on my own?
2. Stammering at idle. I first noticed this at about 500 miles. I have the 2.5L 5spd. The engine will stammer intermittenly at idle. You can feel the motor shake a little and then return to normal rpms. Similar to what somebody else posted but it doesn't seem to do it when I first come to a stop, but off and on while idling at a light, etc. On cooler days you barely notice it at all but the hotter the weather the more pronounced it seems to be. I asked the dealer about it and they said to switch to a lower octane fuel. I tried that but it hasn't helped much. I only have 2,000 miles now and plan on having it checked out when I get my 3,000 mile oil change. Is this something to be concerned about or is it a characteristic of this engine?
I noticed the entry about your concerns with the 3.0L engine. I experienced many of the same impressions during my first road trip with my '99 Mazda B3000. It has the same engine as your Ranger. During my trip from Arizona to Colorado last summer, it seemed that I was constantly getting passed up by all manner of animal, vegetable, and mineral. It took me a while to understand that the 3.0L needs to be kept near its power band (3000 RPM) to be most effective. You just cannot romp on the accelerator at low RPM with this engine and expect it to take off. Fortunately, you've got the manual tranny. So, keeping the engine in its most effective power band is under your control. Don't be afraid to rev the engine a little bit if you have to. I have driven mine hard the last year and it has done fine. I think lack of low-end torque is the real culprit here. My previous truck with a 4.3L V6 (Chevy) did not have this problem. It was an adjustment for me. Perhaps it might require a bit of time for you to get used to the characteristics of the 3.0L. Just my .02 cents. Good luck with your new Ranger...
My friend owns a 3.0 5spd and he has to downshift as far as into 3rd gear when going into the Cascades and climbing hills. His truck keeps up just fine. I believe its just the way the gearing is setup on Rangers... He says no way could he even think of using 5th gear going up hills...
I finally took your advice and had the 30" BFG All Terrain TA/KO's put on my '99 B3000 4WD. Man, do they look nice. I felt the 30's were the best fit for my engine/transmission/rear-end combination. I'm anxious to take them off-road and will try to do so next weekend. They feel good in general driving. Not near as noisy as I thought they would be... I noticed that you have a bit of a fire-storm brewing over in the Frontier vs Ranger topic. One issue I amicably debated over there last month was the contention that the Frontier had superior suspension to the Ranger/B-Series. The Edmund's review of the '99 Frontier was not overly impressed with its suspension characteristics. Any info or opinions on the matter? Just wondering...
Ford has finally issued a recall on the Wiper Switch in 99 and 00 Ranger and Explorers. Thought I would let everyone know in case you didn't get your notice and still have the problem.
It would have been nice if they recalled the 95's... I replaced mine after about 80,000 miles. There were the phantom wipers, the non-working wipers, and finally the flicky flicky headlights! That's what convinced me, no headlights at night at 75 MPH on the interstate is a little too interesting for even me!
Xen, great! I highly reccomend to any Ranger owner who goes offroad to dump the Firejunkers ASAP!! These tires are an absolute joke, they are a 4ply tire that barely will take any abuse whatsoever. I know the BFG's will give you one heck of a ride and better tracking than the Firejunkers ever could... This is one place Ford falls flat on thier faces, tires. Yeah, I started a brawl in the Frontier vs Ranger room, and when I showed those guys the Ford rated better at JD powers, better in crash tests, better performance, they blew up!! and started in on the name calling.. The Frontier is a joke, the 3.3 is a joke. Nissan is bandaiding the 3.3 with a supercharger just to match the normally aspirated engines of its competition...
Just want to say thank you for all your responses. The truck is going back to the dealer today for it's third service call. It's still stalling and smoking and the oil gauge is still going haywire. Now I have a timing problem and the gas gauge is starting to "stick". It registered 1/2 tank last night and when we shut it off and restarted it, we had 3/4 of a tank. All responses are taken to heart and most appreciated. Also, thanks for the heads up on the wiper recall. Do I have to wait to receive a notice, or just tell them to take care of it? Enjoy your day! Liz/Betty :-)
I'm in the second week after taking delivery of my '00 Mazda B3000 2wd 5sp. What are you talking about, with a wiper switch recall?
For those of us who do not go off-road, I have something that may interest some in the tire arena. I immediately swapped the 225/70 Firestones for some 235/70 Bridgestone Dualer H/L and my ride was immediately better. The raised white letter tires are 1/2" taller (no big deal) but seem to fill the wheel well much nicer. The total out of pocket to do this (trading the brand new Firestones) was $125.
Anyone know the pros/cons of switching the front speakers out of my 4-speaker CD stereo system? I would like to improve the sound, although it's ok.
This link was provided by Cthompson over in the Frontier vs Ranger topic. It contains some very interesting reading about future Rangers. Many thanks to Cthompson for finding this link!!!
Hmmm, I feel that they are relatively functional. Of course, my previous truck did not have them at all, so what do I know. What don't you like about them?
Comments
Why does Mazda list 143hp for the 3.0 Ford engine while Ford lists 150hp? Same differential with the torque listing.
Why does the Mazda appear to sit higher? Are there differences in the suspension?
What is the maximum trailer weight, equipped with nothing other than a class 3 hitch?
Any other differences?
I have looked and bugged the dealer as much as I care to at this point. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have a 99 Ranger 2.5L 5spd supercab and I get about 20 mpg. But that is almost 100% city driving, and I do have a lead foot. The 2.5L is fine around town, just not very quick at all. But on the highway once you get up to 70-75 mph, the engine sounds like it's working really hard. I don't have a tach so I don't know what the rpm is at that speed.
Will I have any (ANY) problems towing a tandem trailer with a 21 ft 3900 lb boat. The trailer is equipped with brakes.
Please respond if you have had experience with a similar size load.
Thanks !!!!!!!!!!
If anyone is interested, I'm looking to sell my 98 Ranger, 4x4 Off-Road supercab. High miles (50,000), but I've never had a single problem (besides the stupid transmission, which was completely replaced at 36k miles). I love this model and already have my 2000 edition picked out, but I just can't stand driving a manual transmission in a large city (Minneapolis) during rush hour. Check out my posting at
http://www.carsoup.com/UsedVehicles/detail.asp?uvid=256977
http://www.blueovalnews.com (click on "2001 Ranger")
Changes include the new 4.0 and 2.3L OHC engines, standard 4-wheel ABS and tach on all models, some options no longer available, new colors, etc. Go Ranger!
Designed to appeal to buyers seeking a cool-looking truck with features to
support their active work and leisure needs, Ranger's new Edge series
features bold new styling. Key features include:
· Power dome hood
· Monochromatic exterior color treatment
· 4x2 or 4x4 drivetrain - 4x2 drivetrain features same ride height as 4x4
· Standard 3.0-liter V-6 engine with manual transmission
· 4.0-liter SOHC V-6 with automatic transmission available
· Standard painted silver styled wheels; available 16-inch five spoke
aluminum wheels and 245 OWL A/T tires
· Front tow hooks
· Optional bed extender
· Pickup box rail protectors
· Washable flooring
· CD radio standard and optional in-dash six disc CD changer available
Is Ford going to continue thier current style Ranger, and offer a Seperate "EDGE" series pickup? Or will all 2001/2002 Rangers have the "EDGE" styling?
The standard 3.0 liter rated at 143 HP and
the Flexible Fuel 3.0 liter rated at 152 HP.
The Mazda must use the standard 3.0, I'm not sure Ford offers the standard 3.0 anymore, at least I've not seen one.
If you don't have your heart set on a 2001 with one of the new engine choices, you might want to check into a 2000 with the 3.0L. You should be able to get a nice deal on one. Check out the Mazda B-Series as well. I've got a '99 B3000 4WD with a manual tranny and I've been very happy with it...
P.S. - My B3000 is listed as a flexible fuel vehicle. However, I have never used the alternative fuel...
By June of 2001, the initial demand for the new Ranger will probably have subsided a bit and you should be able to get a nice XLT with a 4 banger for a decent price. I would agree with Vince8, however, and recommend that you at least drive one with the 3.0L engine. In fact, you could take a test drive right now, that particular engine remains the same for 2001. If you decide on the new 4 cyl (2.3L?) do your research and be wary of any possible 1st year problems. I believe that engine is brand new for 2001.
I'm anxious for 2001's myself. Many of us Ranger and B-Series types are dying to drive one with the SOHC 4.0L. If the performance is as expected, I may be upgrading to a new truck next summer myself.
Keep us informed of your decisions. I feel you're making a good choice here. Rangers take a lot of bashing in the various compact pickup topics. But I tell you what, they are well built, and a good value. There's a reason why you see so many of them...
The 3.0L is the same in the Ford and Mazda - both are flex fuel capable. I am still wondering why sales literature from both companies list the hp rating (143hs MAZ vs. 150hp FOR) differently. So far, seems adequate, though.
There is a hole for a tow ball in the bumper and there is a plate that is bolted to the frame under the rear bumper. Is this all I need to tow up to mfg ratings, or do I need a receiver hitch?
I want to switch to a synthetic motor oil. Any suggestions on when I should do this? I usually change oil at the first 2000 miles for my new cars. I've got <250 miles at this time. Still smells good...
Congrats on your new B3000. Is it a 4x4? Does it have the heavy-duty Payload Package suspension? This might explain the stiffness. Some trucks with heavy-duty suspensions are actually smoother with +500 pounds in the bed.
Saturnboy:
Regular-cab 4x2 XLT 3.0L flareside automatics currently start at about $13.5 on http://www.carsdirect.com. If nothing else, you can use this info. to bargain with your dealer. You can get that down to $12K if you like the 5sp (better MPG, cheaper) and can live without the flareside. Xcabs are about $1500 more--make sure you need the Xtra space before spending the Xtra money.
As far as miles, 100K is alot. Timing belt is ready to be changed for sure. Have it looked over with a fine tooth comb by a mechanic you trust the money spent could save you thousands.
you're burning coolant, just as consistent grey or black smoke means you're burning oil. Intermittent?....
If there is a pinhole leak(s) in the head gasket, that could put coolant leaking into the cylinder(s) overnight and/or at a stoplight. Have you been checking your coolant levels? Good luck!
Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
signed: An unhappy Ford owner.
signed: An unhappy Ford owner.
Queenlegs@aol.com
FYI: to Tacoma_trd, I've been driving a stick since 1969. I learned to drive a car with the stick on the column. (Geez, Am I dating myself or what?!?!?!) All my other vehicles have been 5 speeds, and foreign made to boot, so I think I have a handle on driving a 5 speed. This is my first American made vehicle and I'm not to sure if I like it or not. Thanks again and enjoy!
E. LaCicero :-)
1. Are you checking the coolant level regularly? if it's burning coolant, you should see a noticeable drop after a short period of time. A purely mechanical problem like a leak in a head gasket will NOT show up on the computer.
2. Gas gauge going crazy.... Any other electrical issues? Tach bouncing around, etc?
3. Do NOT assume that this is a SINGLE problem. You MAY have the misfortune of several small problems adding together.
4. After a break-in, some problems will go away. Sounds like the dealer is praying for this! I assume you have power steering? Power steering without power is like BAD manual steering, BUT the steering column should NOT lock in place?
5. TOO many dealer "mechanics" cannot diagnose what the computer cannot find. They will frequently start replacing parts from one end to the other to try and find something by accident. Find a mechanics shop where they both have the newest SUN or comparable diagnostic equipment, AND know what a carbureator is and how to work on one. THEN you have competent people looking at your car.
TRUE STORY:
I had an intermittent fault in an '87 Cherokee for about 8 years, it would periodicly "skip" like the clutch had momentarily disengaged. Initially this only occurred at highway speeds, but late it declined to occurring in the 25 mph range even. The dealer could not duplicate the problem.... but they replaced my computer at a cost of $1100.... and the problem still recurred....
Now.... Jeeps are known for electrical issues, particularly as they age.... In January, this vehicle began arbitrarily just dying on me. When it died, it would strand me beside the road for between 15 and 45 minutes. Engine would crank fine, but it wouldn't catch. Happened 4 times. My mechanics, otherwise a fairly reliable lot, could neither find nor duplicate the problem....
I bought a Haynes manual for this vehicle, and a Chiltons and read both thoroughly. Then I replaced the coil/ECU and the fuel pump relay for about $175 in parts and 30 minutes work. The problem has, so far (4 weeks), not recurred.
Hang in there!
Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
In the old days, there were no vacuum hoses on manual trannies. So I don't think this helps your problem. But maybe there are some vacuum hoses on some of today's 5sp trucks? I don't know for sure, my own 5sp Ranger is a 1985!
1. Paint Problems. I think I mentioned this before. The paint on the tailgate looks terrible in the sun. It is the metallic gold color and one side looks lighter than the other, almost like you can see the strokes where the paint was airbrushed on. I first noticed it about two days after I took delivery, after the sun came out following a two day rain. I pointed it out to the salesman who told me that it would be fixed. But the body shop manager later said that there is nothing wrong with it, that it is a chaacteristic of metallic paint. An independent body shop tells me otherwise, that the paint is flawed, perhaps even it was repainted in just that area for some reason. I tried calling Ford Customer Service Center. The only thing they tell me is that workmanship is not covered under warranty. Should I continue to fight with the dealership over this or should I just go and have it repainted on my own?
2. Stammering at idle. I first noticed this at about 500 miles. I have the 2.5L 5spd. The engine will stammer intermittenly at idle. You can feel the motor shake a little and then return to normal rpms. Similar to what somebody else posted but it doesn't seem to do it when I first come to a stop, but off and on while idling at a light, etc. On cooler days you barely notice it at all but the hotter the weather the more pronounced it seems to be. I asked the dealer about it and they said to switch to a lower octane fuel. I tried that but it hasn't helped much. I only have 2,000 miles now and plan on having it checked out when I get my 3,000 mile oil change. Is this something to be concerned about or is it a characteristic of this engine?
I noticed the entry about your concerns with the 3.0L engine. I experienced many of the same impressions during my first road trip with my '99 Mazda B3000. It has the same engine as your Ranger. During my trip from Arizona to Colorado last summer, it seemed that I was constantly getting passed up by all manner of animal, vegetable, and mineral. It took me a while to understand that the 3.0L needs to be kept near its power band (3000 RPM) to be most effective. You just cannot romp on the accelerator at low RPM with this engine and expect it to take off. Fortunately, you've got the manual tranny. So, keeping the engine in its most effective power band is under your control. Don't be afraid to rev the engine a little bit if you have to. I have driven mine hard the last year and it has done fine. I think lack of low-end torque is the real culprit here. My previous truck with a 4.3L V6 (Chevy) did not have this problem. It was an adjustment for me. Perhaps it might require a bit of time for you to get used to the characteristics of the 3.0L. Just my .02 cents. Good luck with your new Ranger...
I noticed that you have a bit of a fire-storm brewing over in the Frontier vs Ranger topic. One issue I amicably debated over there last month was the contention that the Frontier had superior suspension to the Ranger/B-Series. The Edmund's review of the '99 Frontier was not overly impressed with its suspension characteristics. Any info or opinions on the matter? Just wondering...
Yeah, I started a brawl in the Frontier vs Ranger room, and when I showed those guys the Ford rated better at JD powers, better in crash tests, better performance, they blew up!! and started in on the name calling.. The Frontier is a joke, the 3.3 is a joke. Nissan is bandaiding the 3.3 with a supercharger just to match the normally aspirated engines of its competition...
All responses are taken to heart and most appreciated. Also, thanks for the heads up on the wiper recall. Do I have to wait to receive a notice, or just tell them to take care of it? Enjoy your day! Liz/Betty :-)
For those of us who do not go off-road, I have something that may interest some in the tire arena. I immediately swapped the 225/70 Firestones for some 235/70 Bridgestone Dualer H/L and my ride was immediately better. The raised white letter tires are 1/2" taller (no big deal) but seem to fill the wheel well much nicer. The total out of pocket to do this (trading the brand new Firestones) was $125.
Anyone know the pros/cons of switching the front speakers out of my 4-speaker CD stereo system? I would like to improve the sound, although it's ok.
http://fordranger.com/RangerProgram.html