...what the #$%! is 'doc stamps'??? What, was the guy thinking you would NOT NOTICE the increased rates??? Duuuuhhh!! I got locked in with my credit union at 7.0% for a 6-year loan. Gotta love Mr. Greenspan...... p.s. how are you able to get 12.5 in town mileage??? You do have V-10 Auto right???
yep...I have the V10 auto 3.73ls.....I also have the roll top bed cover....that should help milage somewhat......and I check it manually vs. the trip computer....and they come back at a steady 12.5 in the city.....Went and signed the loan papers today....CHECKED THEM THOUROUGHLY!!!! 6.9% for 60 mos. and they increased my trade to equal out the 88.55 extra for doc stamps....whatever the hell they are.......lewac....saw Ken today....he seemed to know when your truck was going to be built....so he is keeping up with your order....
I have been getting about 12 to 15 on my 99 SD CC V10 auto, SB pretty regularly. I think my worst mileage has been about 11.8. I do quite a bit of short miles, only 8 to work, but all country roads. Although, even driving in what we have for city I haven't noticed much difference. I haven't had a chance to take any long distance extended trips yet with it, only about 250 miles one way. I'm looking forward to checking out how it does on an all day run.
I was pleasantly suprised in the ride when I had weight in the back a while ago. I had about 1500 lbs of fertilizer, etc in the back and it rode really well. It just settled in a little. With my old F150 my headlights would have been shining in the tree tops with the same weight and how far back in the bed I had the weight.
I've lost about 1mpg now that winter has set in, but that's typical. I start the truck up about 10 minutes before I leave in the morning, so everything gets deiced and the interior gets nice and toasty before I drive off. I'm also driving in 4wd when we get fresh snow or if I'm at a busy intersection that is a little slick. I use the ESOF extensively and have never had a problem. It goes into 4wd immediately, but takes a few more yards when shifting back into 2wd.
In winter conditions, turning radius almost becomes a non-issue. I make sure I'm in 2wd and give it a little extra gas and watch the duallys spin the back end around. Heck, I can make a 90 degree turn on a dime in a parking lot.
Missed the meteor storm because we had overcast and a few inches of snow last night. But I did see the northern lights earlier this week. That's a fair trade.
They just changed their opening message... It now says "hold for a technical assistant" or something like that. Just hold on and it will go to the automated menu.
My truck is still sitting on a rail car in Palmer Ma., has been since last Thursday. There is a rail bottle neck there with no sign of a break. I've been told that there are 35 rail cars stuck there waiting to be railed to Ayer, Ma. for transport (and that was as of yesterday). My truck is promised for next week,,, and it ain't going to happen at this rate...
Crazyelvis... that IS a helluva "story".... but sure hope Mike's not reading this. we'll probably fax a note out to Ken next week after the thing gets born just to stay in touch. getting to the point that I can NOT hardly wait! when the thing gets born you want it yesterday & it gets frustrating when you can't have it like "right now"! seems like your mileage is certainly in line... mostly city driving doesn't help anyone's mileage regardless of driving habits.
tom18... come back to us as you seem to be having an especially difficult time in regard to finding a decent all around deal.
right. the VOPC changed it's initial message... just hold a sec or two & the automated system will come up.
I received my DORA today with a priority 15. The dealer said all his SDs and Excursions had this same number. He said he expects the truck in January. Any thoughts?
Actually, a dealer can normally go as low as priority 10. lower is better.. Below 10 is reserved for rare cases such as having to replace a truck damaged during transport etc..
well it's nov 17, vopc states as of nov 7. your veh has been shipped by rail carrier with eta to dealer nov 19...same old message!!im hoping to hear an updated version real soon,i would like my truck atleast day before or day after thanksgiving what do you think any chance?
Things heating up - in town truck dealer will give me DORA, but his price about $500 over two lower bids - one trying to promise me DORA - one dealer far away wants $500 non refundable deposit did not put DORA in writing - another out of town dealer but only two hours away working on getting my DORA - all in all I'd like to wrap it up in about a week- another dealer called me from Car Pricing with a mid level offer but I wasn't home and we are trying to make contact - thanks to everyone for all info and making me aware that I am in control of my destiny - sidelight bought my wife a gray Newfoundland puppy from the state of Washington for her birthday - puppy named Petey and is due to fly in to O Hare on Saturday - we pick him up -in PM - might be enough time to buy a vehicle in the morning if circumstances develop
vopc= vehicle order processing center.. you can track your truck order using the same system the dealer does.. However, DO NOT TALK to a real person while in VOPC, as its intended for dealer use only, but if you only use the automated part, no harm done.. See post 18 of this forum, OR goto www.ford-diesel.com faq 2.2 on the VOPC system.
I just ordered a F250,sc,sb,xlt,4x4,V10,4:10 ls,on 11/06. can anybody tell me if you can make changes to your order, and if the change will delay the delivery date ( which I still don't know). I was thinking of adding the factory nerf bars. Also has anybody had any problems with the bars? I can't seem to get a hold of the salesmen who ordered the truck for me.
Article in the Wall Street Journal stating that Ford had sent out $500 rebate offers to many individuals that were valid for light duty trucks. Anyone out there receive one??
I did find out the injectors are new and improved for the 99.5 and up psd if anyone is interested.I did not get much of a response here from my question. I guess most here are waiting on thier trucks and not interested about such things.
After reading jraske's post about GEICO, I called them. You can buy "maintenance coverage" during the first 11 months or 11,000 miles you own the vehicle. For my F350 4X4 SC PSD, the coverage is $6.15 / month with a $250 deductible for 7 years / 100,000 miles. This is a bumper to bumper warranty, not just a power train warranty. 6.15 X 84 months = $516.60. Sounds better than $3,000+.
By the way, State Farm does not offer this coverage.
Trayco ... I responded as such. Sorry you missed it.
Called the VOPC and found out my truck has been shipped by rail with a delivery date for week of ii-29. Truck was orderd on 10-13, built on 11-11 Hey! Bess I just might beat that record of yours HA! HA! One thing my DORA never had any priority number at all, All it says is priority no number. But it looks like my creation will make it home by date promised and thats all that matters to me! (LONG AS THE RAIL YARDS DON'T SCREW UP)
My truck was ordered 9/30 built 10/30 due 11/17. I called the dealer and they do not know where it is. He said that he tried to call Cooper transportation (whoever that is) but was not getting an answer. Maybe tomorrow.
Some data for Sacramento-area shoppers: I ordered my 2000 SD XLT (V-10/AT/SC/LB/4WD/3.73) through Future Ford on 11/12 for $750 over invoice. That was within a hundred bucks of other NoCal dealership bids obtained through InvoiceDealers.com, so I went with the guys with whom I'd test-driven. I figure a few extra hundred was worth a good relationship with a local dealership. Besides, after putting the sales guy through the hassle of loading wife, two kids and two carseats in a Supercab for a test drive, I wasn't going to argue over a few hundred bucks.
The fleet sales manager, George Baraga, actually sat down with me at their official Ford invoice input computer, typed in the truck order with a priority of 10, and handed me a copy of the DORA afterwards. None of the mystifying crap about holding back order info. Straight shooting all the way.
However, they are quoting me a conservative delay estimate of 16 weeks, citing the V-10 allocations to Excursion builds. Told me to expect a build date lock-in within two weeks. I'm hoping Ford will come back with a delivery date in the 12 week ballpark.
Who was it who ordered a California-emissions V-10/AT/3.73 with the limited-slip diff? The Ford order processing system still won't let you order that combo, even though I asked George to try. There's still time for me to change my order if I can find out how to enter an order with the LS diff.
On the 8th waisted day of just sitting in Palmer, MA on a rail car my F250 has left for (and I assume there by now) Ayre, Ma (THE RAMP).
I'm sure glad I was given the rail car number by my dealer, without it my truck would still be sitting there I'm sure. After checking CSX's info line for several days with no movement I decided to talk to a HUMAN at CSX. Lucky for me I did because this person put me through to some Ford hot line. After a couple more days of passing the buck, they finally hooked me up with someone with enough clout to get the thing moving. That was this morning and by 12:25pm it was moving again. I was also told that there was no bottle neck in Ayre, so they should be able to unload my truck right away (I wonder when the VOPC will find out). With any luck they'll actually put it on a transport right away and I should have it early next week????
The main advantage of the V-10 over the V-8 is torque. Also, if you ever consider after market performance enhancers, the V-10 has more upward potential. If you're not towing or hauling a lot, the V-8 will be more than adequate. Even if you are towing or hauling heavy, it will work fine, but you'll notice the peformance difference. Obviously, the V-8 will have to work harder under any circumstances, even running empty. How much harder is the question, and also what kind of impact that extra effort will have on the overall life of the engine as the trucks start climbing through the six digits in total mileage.
When I bought my truck, the V-10 was a $275 option. I think it's more for 2000. Also, the V-8 was only at 245hp and I forget how much torque. Since there appeared to be no significant difference in mpg and I carry a heavy camper, the V-10 was a no brainer for me. Actually, if mpg had been a bigger factor, I would have considered the V-8.......PSD V-8 that is. I heard of several people who have the 5.4L V-8 in the Superduty and they don't have any complaints. When you don't need more engine, there is no point in buying more.
For the record I ordered 9/10/99 delivered to dealer 10/4/99. I ordered a diesel with the 6 sp. I think Fords priority is to sell as many psd's as possible since they command top dollar.
Tom18 Any luck with Anderson Ford. They faxed my Dora back to me as soon as the order was made. They did want a $500 deposit. I didn't think that was too much of a deal since the price of the truck was that much lower than the competition. So far of the 2 trucks ordered from Anderson they have arrived between 3 and 6 weeks. The advice people give you in these threads is from practical experience which is huge when you consider the dollar value of these trucks. Good luck everyone. Gary
This may be a dumb question, I have not really looked into it,how difficult is it to swap out the antenna? Mine also snags the garage door. What brand antenna did you get?
Trayco, went to wal-mart, picked up the 'Universal whip replacement mast' from Rally, that fits all vehicles. It has an M1 no.3347 on the package.. It was $4.95, and comes with instructions and adapters for ford, GM, and chrysler vehicles.. It took me about 5 minutes to replace it.. It works great.
True, ford dealers like to sell PSD's in general, there is also a push from FoMoCo to sell superduties with manual trannys. The reason I've heard of is that they are afraid the supply of auto trannys may get strained due to the popularity of the SD's and Excursion
Well Kermode, Anderson Ford is saying all the right things - I am a little concerned about a sight unseen deal - any way of checking this place out for my peace of mine ? For me this is a major purchase so I want to do the right thing. In Wisconsin the Better Business Bureau does give you some info - what's the place to check in Illinois just to feel comfortable? If you can get back to me on this quick I'd be grateful-Sharon is telling me V10 ordering ends Tuesday - November 23 anybody hear this no more V10's after that date - need your expertise folks- ready to buy right! Help!
I see you are from MA. If you have seen my recent posts you'll note that my truck has been held up in Palmer, MA. waiting to rail to Ayer, MA. I learned that there were many rail cars held up there, your's was/is most likely there too. If you can get your rail car number from the dealer you can check on its status using the number for CSX that I posted earlier.
I got one in the mail today. I know someone asked about it....so here it goes... Eligible Vehicles: Any new 1999 Model F150/F250 (under 8500 lbs GVWR) or 2000 Model F150 (under 8500 lbs GVWR). Excludes the all new F150 SuperCrew coming in January. Valid from Nov. 1 to Jan. 31. The customer must take new retail delivery from dealer stock. (No order protection.) A, X and Z plan units are eligible.
OK...enough Ford lingo for me....what does this mean...of coarse...no good for y2k F250's...plus I guess it says that those of us who order are left out???....moot anyway since Ford not taking orders for 99 250's anymore anyway.....plus...what dealer still has a 99 model on the lot??? So basically this is only good for 150 purchases......SUCKS!!!!
Oh well.....got my pop up hooks from bull accessories today.....EASY to install and they look great and seem like they will function really well. These are hooks that you put in the square holes on top of the bed rails...on the side rails. There are four slots ....two near the tailgate and two near the rear window.....29.95 and well worth it!!!
ffd804-You can make changes to your order,even after it's "serialized",but once it's "locked in for production", no changes. I added a few things after it was serialized and it did not affect my production date (actually it was produced a week earlier than the orginal production date given on the VOPC message) paull 1- glad you got the folks at CSX moving. Mine was put on the rail car 11/5, "at the ramp" 11/15, maybe at the dealer by turkey day...I can only hope!!
I can't believe it. My truck has finally been serialized! It's only been on order since 6/24. With any luck I should have it by Christmas (thank you Santa). I did make the change to LS rear end and V-10. Can't wait!
I am looking at a 2000 F250 XLT SD SC V10 3.73 ABS ... Sticker $31,775. After initial negotiations the dealer tells me that the tail gate was rock chipped on the transporter. Sure enough due to the fact that the vehicle was extremely dirty I did not see the chips. The dealer has been wait for three weeks for Ford to tell them if it is OK to repaint the tailgate, est. repair cost $599. I know this type of damage happens all the time during shipping. My question is why is Ford taking so long to decide about the repair? I would just go to another dealer to purchase a truck but I want 4 wheel ABS and my wife likes the Dark Toreador Red.
I think Ford might be able to send a new tailgate for cheaper than $600. Maybe that is what they are considering.
Whether or not making changes will delay your order will depend on what you change. For example, if you just want to add the trailer/tow package or the camper package, it's not likely to cause any delays, but if you change something big like from a V-8 to a V-10 or a SRW to a dually, it probably will. There was a time when leather interiors were in short supply and Lariat rims. If you would have changed from an XLT to a Lariat, it would have delayed the order.
crazyelvis, I also got a $500 rebate sticker last year shortly after buying my truck. As with yours, it didn't cover the Superduty.
Saw a moose trying to cross the road this morning. Amazingly, we have 200-300 moose kills on the hwys up here each year, most of them in the winter when they come down out of the deep snow of the higher elevations to find more food. They can do a lot of damage, even to a Superduty.
I once read an article in news paper about a MOOSE that was struck in the rear by a slow moving train (in Canada).
Apparently this MOOSE was rather PISSED OFF because he turned around and CHARGED the train!!!
He committed suicide but mortally wounded the train by getting his antlers UNDER the R.R. cars pulling his large frame with it. I guess he "Balled up" as the train rolled over him, LIFTING the train up high enough for it to exceed the height of the wheel flange--- Thus DE-RAILING the train!!!!
I know it's not SD topic material --- I'm still waiting!!! and I have no useful information to post -- SORRY
Just a note to Scottj198 (post #684)..I have a 2000 F-250 SD XLT V10 4.30 LS, list was about $28,575. Mine is just a 4 x 2 ext cab tho. It is not unusual for vehicles to be damaged during transport, as practically all the cars & trucks I've ever bought have had some minor damage (usually paint). NOW to your tailgate situation..Mine was permanently deformed by several bales of hay being dropped from over 2 stories up, while it was in the lowered position. Repairs to replace, paint & swap out hardware is $750. The bare tailgate is $360 out the door, if you wanted to do it yourself. But since yours was obviously damaged en route, it is up to the dealer & the transporter to negotiate repairs. My guess is that the dealer wants to be paid first (from the transporter) then fix your truck. I think their estimate is bogus, as a new tailgate complete is around $800. Keep complaining, and don't let up. The dealer's job is to now make you happy. GOOD LUCK!!
I received 2 $500 certificates around the end of July for my 2000 F-250 SD V10. I also received a "FORD" directors about the same time. My truck came in on 8-5-99 & have been enjoying it ever since. The $500 certificate (at the time) was only intended for those that ordered a 1999 vehicle, and couldn't get one due to the phenomenal demand. The dealer took the certificate amount right off the negotiated price from the 1999 model. I am VERY HAPPY!!
Ordered my Lariat on 10/14, being built the week of 11/15 and delivered the week of 11/29. I made two changes to the specs (added carpet back in and added ESOF) both went through at plant. Dealer now tells me there is a $50 fee to make changes. Has anyone heard of this? Also dealer is quoting extended warranty as follows: 5yr/60k $995.00 6yr/75k $1355.00 There is a $50 deductible per visit not per problem. He says these are $100 over his cost. The warranty is called EXTRACARE and is the top of the line package covering everything.
....just for fyi, my extended contract from PREMIER...7yr/70,000k started at $1250.00, I got the dealer down to $1027.00 for the Level 4-plan. The level 4-plan is their "top-of-line" product and also carries the $50.00 deductable per visit regardless of which dealer I take it to. Tom18, any more information on the dealings with Anderson's??? Porky, with the double posting, I have noticed this when hitting the "reload" button on my browser to update for new messages after I have posted my message.....
Thanks! I'll watch out for that next time because I did go OFF site to check out another Web location and came back. I hit "refresh" and bingo there it was (my last post) a third time! Makes a guy kinda feel a little dorky!!!
Well, by now you have had more than one tank full of gas ---- How's the mileage doing???? Any better than 9.5 mpg?
Is financing something we can share in this forum?? I know Credit Unions would pose a problem, but large lending banks usually don't care where you live as long as your breathing, can make the payments and have a good credit history. The best that I can do around here ( Western Washington Seattle/Tacoma area) is 7.75% over 84 mo. Why so long? It will get my payments down to something I can live with (around $375) and I can always add more to shorten the length of the loan. ANY INFORMATION would be most appreciative. Thanks in advance. Paul
maintaining your finish.. good advice..my truck(99 F-250sd EXT 4X2) is red, always wanted a red truck, didn't know how tuff it would be to keep it clean...thanks for the tips,they'll come in handy...by the way, that IS one good looking truck...you did a nice job!!!
I live south of the Quad Cities about 6 miles west of Galesburg.
Some things on the truck I have found need attention. The right rear quarter window seal does not work very well, particularly at the car wash. The door seals appear more noisey than I would want, possible the doors need adjusting as the truck gets worn in. I'm going to give the truck a little more time incase any other things show up. That way several can be fixed at the same time. Dealer talked about adding some silicone to the original seal. I am going to ask for a new seal, any thoughts?
From what I've heard, the SD dash cup holders don't hold drinks all that well. Now that my SD has arrived, I agree that the design could be improved upon.. It seems like the open sides (on the outside) are the key problem.. I've implemented a very cheap home remedy fix, that can be installed in about 1/2 hour and completly uninstalled in 10 secs if it turns out you don't like the fix.
Parts needed: 2 10" x 4mm stretch cords (available at your favorite wal-mart for 1.97 or so. In the auto section) 1 small piece of wire
tools needed: 3/16 in drill bit w/cordless drill (don't worry there are NO visible holes) Pair of needlenose pliers
Procedure: Open the cupholder and examine the 2 'jaws I'll call them' that pop up. Each jaw has a slit where a rubberized type of material is inserted. Basically we're going to put a cord that attaches to both jaws, so when the cup holder is 'out', the cord will support the side of the cup especially when cornering. When folded, the jaws collapse down, pulling the cord down nicely out of the way.
a. Gently pull part of the rubberized material out of the slot. You don't have to pull the whole thing out, just enough to see the slot. Do this on the 4 outside corners of the cupholder.
b. Place the drill bit on the outside most part of the slot and make a rounded hole there.. (I tried to squeeze the cord in the slot without drilling, but it needed to be a tiny bit wider, thus the drilling). Do this on all 4 corners.
c. Take the stretch cord, and cut 1 end off, remove the 2 hooks from the stretch cord and discard them. (Note how the hooks were attached to the cord.. We're doing the same thing later on in step f).
d. Feed the cord from the back side of the jaw closest to the dash out the front of that jaw, then in the front of the opposing jaw and out the back. So the long end of the cord is closest to you..
e. With the cupholder fully open, I made it so the cord was a straight line but not stretched, and cut the excess part of the cord off. Leave a little extra cord so you can tie it off.
If you cut the cord too short, it will probably intefere with the jaws automatically opening. If you leave it too long, when the jaws close up on folding, the cord might snag/get pinched in the slide mechanism.
f. Now I hold the jaws down which allows me to pull the cord farther out the back so its easier to fold/loop the cord back onto itself at the tip and use the wire to hold the loop..
Repeat this on the other side.
g. Put the rubberized material back in the slot.
I wish I had a digital camera so I could show pictures, it would make it much easier..
With mine, the little loop/knot tucks nicely in the little groove in the back.
Removal: If for some reason you want to remove this, just cut the cord and slide it out. No one will even know you hacked it..
Remember, you heard this from me first, don't send $$, just a nice thanks will do.
Porky....the 3-tanks of gas the mileage has been as follows: 11, 10, 9.5. The first tank did include a good portion of 2-lane highway driving. Second tank, less highway, 3rd tank ALL in town..2-miles to work...1.5 to class...1.5 back home. As for the financing, if you belong to a CREDIT UNION, they should have a lower rate. Whether or not you can get 84-month is another question. That doesn't sound to bad for the term, my credit union went up in .25% increments per year borrowed. I was able to get 7% on a 6-year loan and borrowed $27,000. Payment is right around $460.00 per month. For me, it is still cheaper than making the two monthly payments on my 98 MAXIMA and 96 KAWASAKI ZX-11.(yes, both are gone!!) Kermode...on the window seal issue, I think that you might be able to tighten the windows where the latch mechanism is. Requires kind of a BIG phillips screwdriver if I remember correctly. These windows work kind of like a sunroof, and may require snugging from time to time. You mean you the truck FIT in the car wash, or was it the do-it-yourself-stall? Maybe next time we plan a trip over that way I'll give ya a post so we can meet and compare rigs!! Bess, thanks for the tip, but I might have a solution to your picture dilema. 1.) You might be able to rent a digital camera from the local rent-it place. 2.) Get some good pictures of the step by step process. Get film developed and take pictures to a KINKO'S copy center. Most of the Kinko's now have a computer center where you could scan your pictures into JPEG format, save them to disc and transport them home, OR 3.) take film to Photomat place and ask for a PICTURE DISC. If you were able to get pictures posted somewhere, or have the ability to send them out, I think that it would be greatly appreciated to those of us mechanically challenged within the group, or just like to look at pictures. FOR THOSE OF YOU whom wanting to copy the instructions to take with you....position mouse cursor at the start of the message, hold down left button and move mouse down highlighting the instructions. Release left button, and move mouse cursor somewhere within the highlighted area and right click. A small menu should appear, move mouse cursor down the menu until the "copy" function is highlighted and LEFT-click mouse. From there open up Microsoft WORD into a NEW document, place mouse cursor within the new WORD document and RIGHT click mouse. A menu should appear...move mouse cursor down and highlight "PASTE", LEFT-click mouse...the instructions should now appear on the WORD document. Save the file under whatever name you want, then print them off to go shopping!!! Hope the tip helps......
Faxed my signed contract and $500 deposit to Anderson Ford today - now I have to re-read all the posts on tracking (using the Dora I am supposed to get within 15 days) - thank you to all for all the great help - I am really excited -
Anyone have any thoughts on duallys in the snow? I live in Upstate NY and just ordered an F350 PSD dually crew cab long wheel base, 4 wheel drive with 4:10 LS. Will the four wheel drive LS overcome the tendency of the dually do drive poorly in snowy/hardpack (highway) conditions?
Comments
p.s. how are you able to get 12.5 in town mileage??? You do have V-10 Auto right???
I was pleasantly suprised in the ride when I had weight in the back a while ago. I had about 1500 lbs of fertilizer, etc in the back and it rode really well. It just settled in a little. With my old F150 my headlights would have been shining in the tree tops with the same weight and how far back in the bed I had the weight.
Fantastic truck!
In winter conditions, turning radius almost becomes a non-issue. I make sure I'm in 2wd and give it a little extra gas and watch the duallys spin the back end around. Heck, I can make a 90 degree turn on a dime in a parking lot.
Missed the meteor storm because we had overcast and a few inches of snow last night. But I did see the northern lights earlier this week. That's a fair trade.
tom18... come back to us as you seem to be having an especially difficult time in regard to finding a decent all around deal.
right. the VOPC changed it's initial message... just hold a sec or two & the automated system will come up.
Whalercat
See post 18 of this forum, OR goto www.ford-diesel.com faq 2.2 on the VOPC system.
By the way, State Farm does not offer this coverage.
Trayco ... I responded as such. Sorry you missed it.
shipped by rail with a delivery date for week of ii-29. Truck was orderd on 10-13, built on 11-11
Hey! Bess I just might beat that record of yours
HA! HA!
One thing my DORA never had any priority number at all, All it says is priority no number. But it looks like my creation will make it home by date promised and thats all that matters to me!
(LONG AS THE RAIL YARDS DON'T SCREW UP)
The fleet sales manager, George Baraga, actually sat down with me at their official Ford invoice input computer, typed in the truck order with a priority of 10, and handed me a copy of the DORA afterwards. None of the mystifying crap about holding back order info. Straight shooting all the way.
However, they are quoting me a conservative delay estimate of 16 weeks, citing the V-10 allocations to Excursion builds. Told me to expect a build date lock-in within two weeks. I'm hoping Ford will come back with a delivery date in the 12 week ballpark.
Who was it who ordered a California-emissions V-10/AT/3.73 with the limited-slip diff? The Ford order processing system still won't let you order that combo, even though I asked George to try. There's still time for me to change my order if I can find out how to enter an order with the LS diff.
I'm sure glad I was given the rail car number by my dealer, without it my truck would still be sitting there I'm sure. After checking CSX's info line for several days with no movement I decided to talk to a HUMAN at CSX. Lucky for me I did because this person put me through to some Ford hot line. After a couple more days of passing the buck, they finally hooked me up with someone with enough clout to get the thing moving. That was this morning and by 12:25pm it was moving again. I was also told that there was no bottle neck in Ayre, so they should be able to unload my truck right away (I wonder when the VOPC will find out). With any luck they'll actually put it on a transport right away and I should have it early next week????
When I bought my truck, the V-10 was a $275 option. I think it's more for 2000. Also, the V-8 was only at 245hp and I forget how much torque. Since there appeared to be no significant difference in mpg and I carry a heavy camper, the V-10 was a no brainer for me. Actually, if mpg had been a bigger factor, I would have considered the V-8.......PSD V-8 that is. I heard of several people who have the 5.4L V-8 in the Superduty and they don't have any complaints. When you don't need more engine, there is no point in buying more.
Tom18
Any luck with Anderson Ford. They faxed my Dora back to me as soon as the order was made. They did want a $500 deposit. I didn't think that was too much of a deal since the price of the truck was that much lower than the competition. So far of the 2 trucks ordered from Anderson they have arrived between 3 and 6 weeks. The advice people give you in these threads is from practical experience which is huge when you consider the dollar value of these trucks. Good luck everyone. Gary
It was $4.95, and comes with instructions and adapters for ford, GM, and chrysler vehicles.. It took me about 5 minutes to replace it.. It works great.
Eligible Vehicles: Any new 1999 Model F150/F250 (under 8500 lbs GVWR) or 2000 Model F150 (under 8500 lbs GVWR). Excludes the all new F150 SuperCrew coming in January.
Valid from Nov. 1 to Jan. 31.
The customer must take new retail delivery from dealer stock. (No order protection.) A, X and Z plan units are eligible.
OK...enough Ford lingo for me....what does this mean...of coarse...no good for y2k F250's...plus I guess it says that those of us who order are left out???....moot anyway since Ford not taking orders for 99 250's anymore anyway.....plus...what dealer still has a 99 model on the lot??? So basically this is only good for 150 purchases......SUCKS!!!!
Oh well.....got my pop up hooks from bull accessories today.....EASY to install and they look great and seem like they will function really well. These are hooks that you put in the square holes on top of the bed rails...on the side rails. There are four slots ....two near the tailgate and two near the rear window.....29.95 and well worth it!!!
after it was serialized and it did not affect my production date (actually it was produced a week earlier than the orginal production date given on the VOPC message)
paull 1- glad you got the folks at CSX moving. Mine was put on the rail car 11/5, "at the ramp"
11/15, maybe at the dealer by turkey day...I can only hope!!
Thanks
Scott
Whether or not making changes will delay your order will depend on what you change. For example, if you just want to add the trailer/tow package or the camper package, it's not likely to cause any delays, but if you change something big like from a V-8 to a V-10 or a SRW to a dually, it probably will. There was a time when leather interiors were in short supply and Lariat rims. If you would have changed from an XLT to a Lariat, it would have delayed the order.
crazyelvis, I also got a $500 rebate sticker last year shortly after buying my truck. As with yours, it didn't cover the Superduty.
Saw a moose trying to cross the road this morning. Amazingly, we have 200-300 moose kills on the hwys up here each year, most of them in the winter when they come down out of the deep snow of the higher elevations to find more food. They can do a lot of damage, even to a Superduty.
I once read an article in news paper about a MOOSE that was struck in the rear by a slow moving train (in Canada).
Apparently this MOOSE was rather PISSED OFF because he turned around and CHARGED the train!!!
He committed suicide but mortally wounded the train by getting his antlers UNDER the R.R. cars pulling his large frame with it. I guess he "Balled up" as the train rolled over him, LIFTING the train up high enough for it to exceed the height of the wheel flange--- Thus DE-RAILING the train!!!!
I know it's not SD topic material --- I'm still waiting!!! and I have no useful information to post -- SORRY
5yr/60k $995.00
6yr/75k $1355.00
There is a $50 deductible per visit not per problem. He says these are $100 over his cost. The warranty is called EXTRACARE and is the top of the line package covering everything.
Tom18, any more information on the dealings with Anderson's???
Porky, with the double posting, I have noticed this when hitting the "reload" button on my browser to update for new messages after I have posted my message.....
I'll watch out for that next time because I did go OFF site to check out another Web location and came back. I hit "refresh" and bingo there it was (my last post) a third time! Makes a guy kinda feel a little dorky!!!
Well, by now you have had more than one tank full of gas ---- How's the mileage doing???? Any better than 9.5 mpg?
Is financing something we can share in this forum?? I know Credit Unions would pose a problem, but large lending banks usually don't care where you live as long as your breathing, can make the payments and have a good credit history. The best that I can do around here ( Western Washington Seattle/Tacoma area) is 7.75% over 84 mo. Why so long? It will get my payments down to something I can live with (around $375) and I can always add more to shorten the length of the loan. ANY INFORMATION would be most appreciative. Thanks in advance. Paul
Just over a month old and love it, is it perfect? nope, but nothing else in life is that I have found. Still have a big grin whenever I get in it.
Enjoy all!
Some things on the truck I have found need attention. The right rear quarter window seal does not work very well, particularly at the car wash. The door seals appear more noisey than I would want, possible the doors need adjusting as the truck gets worn in. I'm going to give the truck a little more time incase any other things show up. That way several can be fixed at the same time. Dealer talked about adding some silicone to the original seal. I am going to ask for a new seal, any thoughts?
Now that my SD has arrived, I agree that the design could be improved upon..
It seems like the open sides (on the outside) are the key problem.. I've implemented a very cheap home remedy fix, that can be installed in about 1/2 hour and completly uninstalled in 10 secs if it turns out you don't like the fix.
Parts needed:
2 10" x 4mm stretch cords (available at your favorite wal-mart for 1.97 or so. In the auto section)
1 small piece of wire
tools needed:
3/16 in drill bit w/cordless drill (don't worry there are NO visible holes)
Pair of needlenose pliers
Procedure:
Open the cupholder and examine the 2 'jaws I'll call them' that pop up.
Each jaw has a slit where a rubberized type of material is inserted.
Basically we're going to put a cord that attaches to both jaws, so when the cup holder is 'out', the cord will support the side of the cup especially when cornering. When folded, the jaws collapse down, pulling the cord down nicely out of the way.
a. Gently pull part of the rubberized material out of the slot. You don't
have to pull the whole thing out, just enough to see the slot.
Do this on the 4 outside corners of the cupholder.
b. Place the drill bit on the outside most part of the slot and make a rounded
hole there.. (I tried to squeeze the cord in the slot without drilling, but it needed to be a tiny bit wider, thus the drilling). Do this on all 4 corners.
c. Take the stretch cord, and cut 1 end off, remove the 2 hooks from the
stretch cord and discard them.
(Note how the hooks were attached to the cord.. We're doing the same thing later on in step f).
d. Feed the cord from the back side of the jaw closest to the dash out the front
of that jaw, then in the front of the opposing jaw and out the back.
So the long end of the cord is closest to you..
e. With the cupholder fully open, I made it so the cord was a straight line
but not stretched, and cut the excess part of the cord off. Leave a little extra
cord so you can tie it off.
If you cut the cord too short, it will probably intefere with the jaws
automatically opening. If you leave it too long, when the jaws close up
on folding, the cord might snag/get pinched in the slide mechanism.
f. Now I hold the jaws down which allows me to pull the cord farther out the back
so its easier to fold/loop the cord back onto itself at the tip and use the wire to
hold the loop..
Repeat this on the other side.
g. Put the rubberized material back in the slot.
I wish I had a digital camera so I could show pictures, it would make it
much easier..
With mine, the little loop/knot tucks nicely in the little groove in the
back.
Removal:
If for some reason you want to remove this, just cut the cord and slide it out.
No one will even know you hacked it..
Remember, you heard this from me first, don't send $$, just a nice thanks will do.
I hope this helps
Kermode...on the window seal issue, I think that you might be able to tighten the windows where the latch mechanism is. Requires kind of a BIG phillips screwdriver if I remember correctly. These windows work kind of like a sunroof, and may require snugging from time to time. You mean you the truck FIT in the car wash, or was it the do-it-yourself-stall? Maybe next time we plan a trip over that way I'll give ya a post so we can meet and compare rigs!!
Bess, thanks for the tip, but I might have a solution to your picture dilema. 1.) You might be able to rent a digital camera from the local rent-it place. 2.) Get some good pictures of the step by step process. Get film developed and take pictures to a KINKO'S copy center. Most of the Kinko's now have a computer center where you could scan your pictures into JPEG format, save them to disc and transport them home, OR 3.) take film to Photomat place and ask for a PICTURE DISC. If you were able to get pictures posted somewhere, or have the ability to send them out, I think that it would be greatly appreciated to those of us mechanically challenged within the group, or just like to look at pictures.
FOR THOSE OF YOU whom wanting to copy the instructions to take with you....position mouse cursor at the start of the message, hold down left button and move mouse down highlighting the instructions. Release left button, and move mouse cursor somewhere within the highlighted area and right click. A small menu should appear, move mouse cursor down the menu until the "copy" function is highlighted and LEFT-click mouse. From there open up Microsoft WORD into a NEW document, place mouse cursor within the new WORD document and RIGHT click mouse. A menu should appear...move mouse cursor down and highlight "PASTE", LEFT-click mouse...the instructions should now appear on the WORD document. Save the file under whatever name you want, then print them off to go shopping!!! Hope the tip helps......