The car is a DODGE CHARGER SXT 2009, but the key here is that it has a BODY KIT, RACING STRIPES and 22 inch rims on it! This is the way it came from the dealer! It also has a modified low jack alarm on the car. I haven't seen one like it in the city yet! Salesman was trying to make quota for the end of the month and I timed it well and got a good price. Based on your advice I would have to go back to the dealership with my tail between my legs. That's an option but, I feel they may want to recoup what they lost in the first negotiated deal. I know I'm holding a 2 of clubs and they're holding kings and aces! Still, I appreciate your advice, which I just might try!
I feel they may want to recoup what they lost in the first negotiated deal.
I would love to see the numbers on this deal. I highly doubt they lost anything and probably laughed all the way to the bank. You bought a relatively low demand vehicle with a ton of add-on's that not many people would be interested in. I'm sure they marked up those add-on's to the moon and then gave you a huge discount. Unless you bought this thing for thousands under invoice and paid nothing extra for the gee-whiz stuff....you're gonna get hosed whether you trade it or private sale. More so on the trade-in but I have my doubts about seeing a private party deal quickly either. That's a tough sale IMHO.
"Nobody expects the bling-bling Dodge Charger SXT......" Sorry, lame Monty Python reference...but seriously when you're talking car jacking I was expecting a Lexus or Bentley....I mean if they don't feel safe in it just take off the racing stripes and rims and you'll look like every other rental car out there. You'll be further ahead by far and I'm sure someone will trade you stock rims....maybe even throw in a $100 or something. Then you'll just have to worry about random car jacking which would apply if you were in a Cavalier.....
The SXT has the 3.5 V6. I'm sorry but I think that you made a big mistake buying that car. With racing stripes and huge wheels, it's just a poser with the V6. It's probably going to be hard to try to find anyone that wants it. Make a profit? No way.
This is particularly puzzling to me, as certain local suburban police departments around here use Chargers as their official vehicles.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
I am thinking of selling my Kia Rio5 SX with 24000 miles, A/T, power accessories. I had a used car manager rate it as "clean" and I would rate it as being in excellent condition (I've babied it, because it is my first car). I am in no rush to sell, but would like to get out of it in order to save money in the short term and long term use my car payment savings toward a down payment for a step up. My question is this, the kbb and the edmunds prices for the car are pretty far apart. Any sense of what might be a good starting point for pricing the car? Thanks
You may take into account the the trade-in numbers you got may have been inflated, in the hope that you pay more for the new car.
Would you pay over 10k (before taxes and registration) for a 3+ year old Korean subcompact when you can get a base Nissan Versa with automatic for 12k (again, before taxes and registration)?
Thanks, that offers some perspective. Though these were the initial appraisals that moved up quite a bit in hopes I would move out of the car. Not sure if that matters, though. Edmunds Price on the car is 10,384 and KBB is at about 9250. I've read some people argue that you should take kbb and add 10% as an opening price, which brings these two close. Your point still stands, though. Since I am not in a hurry to sell, I guess I'll start at the initial number with the expectation that I'll have to adjust in a couple weeks.
Edmunds Private Party Value- $9,863 KBB.com Private Party- $9205 (Excellent Cond) or $8655 (Good Cond) NADA.com Retail Value (Clean)- $9,375
That w/ 24k miles, pw, pdl, alloy wheels, automatic and ABS.
Go to AutoTrader.com and do a search for the Kia Rio5, 2007-2007, and choose a search range of 500 miles (to get more results). In Atlanta, Carmax has one with the same specs as yours (23k miles) for $9988. A few private sellers are $9700-$9800 that will give you a better idea of what’s realistic in your market.
My mom bought an '07 Explorer last year and doesn't use her '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee any longer. I've debated whether to try to sell it for or just keep it for myself as a 2nd vehicle....it's in excellent condition, drives great, but it has 205,000 miles on it. The 4.0L I-6 may have another 100k left in it (the transmission probably doesn't, but who knows).
KBB puts the value at $2.640 (Private Party, Good Condition) Edmunds isn’t so kind- TMV Private Party- $1,136 NADA Clean Retail- $2,850
I've bought and sold 12-13 cars over the years, so I have realistic expectations...but it seems like a solid $2500 SUV to me! Thoughts?
It`s a 15 yr old SUV with 205k miles.A ticking time bomb.Anything can happen.1500 max would be offered by the buyer,I think. Again if it`s good,no point in selling it..Drive it into the ground or till something major blows up. My advice,MHO-keep the Jeep,drive it till it dies,then junk it for about 300.
If it was 4wd it'd bring strong money, but a 2wd Jeep is about as desirable as the plague. $2,000 maybe...1,500 is probably realistic but you never know until you ask.
Thanks again for all of the input. I did look around and there aren't a lot of comps in the area (there are a lot of sedans, but not hatchbacks. probably not the best sign). I found an 07 LX Sedan nearby, 41000 mi, W/O power accessories listed by a dealer at 9977. I found another 07 LX SEdan w/power accessories and 24000 mi at 10997. I finally found an 08 RIo5 LX w/o power accessories, with 5800 miles at 11,575.
What do all of the posters think of starting at 9,999 (I really cannot go lower, though, than 9550 during negotiations). Thanks.
Trouble pricing my car for private sale. It's a 97 Nissan Pathfinder XE, which is the completely loaded top of the line model including leather interior, dual 8 way heated power seats, moonroof, alloys, Bose stereo. It's only got 85k on it which is about half of what every other one has on it and runs very nice. The michelin tires have about 10k miles on it and the water pump, starter, battery and rear suspenstion bushings are all replaced in the last two years. Realistically, mechanically it needs nothing. All the power accesories work and the AC is ridiculously cold.
It also has steps, a moonroof visor and remote start.
So what is wrong? On the paint on the passenger side, there are some issues with the clear on the fender and both doors. It's just on the top so it doesn't look horrendous but close up it's an issue. I guess if it was a show car, you'd call it a 20 footer because if you drive by and see it sitting in the driveway, it looks really clean. There is also a rust spot in front of the back tire on the passenger side which seems to be a common problem spot for this car.
If I had the passenger side sprayed, it would be a really clean car but I'd rather not go through the effort and expense to sell it.
And what`s your query?? But yes,not worth repainting or doing anything to that 12yr old Pathy.Sell it "AS IS" and disclose all the info to the buyer.Should be an easy sell on Craigslist with a good price..Let us know.
I am selling a 2006 Honda CRV SE. The care is in good condition all around. The only blemish is a very small crack in the rear bumper that is only visible with the rear door open. It otherwise looks and runs like new. The tires are Goodyear Tripletreds - expensive tires, but they are nearing the end of their lifespan. Do you all think it is worth it to put new tires, albeit much less expensive ones, on the car before trying to sell? Is there any return on that investment other than possibly selling faster or would I just be wasting money?
I would probably leave them alone and as a part of the negotiation. I'd make it clear it is just about due for new tires and you'll consider that in the negotiation. I personally would rather give you $300 less and let ME buy the tires I want vs potentially buying the vehicle with tires I didn't want from an unknown source. If someone wants YOU to buy the tires, then do that after the deal is struck. Some folks won't want to be bothered with it, but at least they'll have the choice as well.
"...crack in the rear bumper...tires...nearing the end of their lifespan..."
If this was an old $2000 beater I wouldn't fix anything just mention it to prospective buyers. This however, is a fairly new car with an Edmunds private party value of over $16K depending on mileage. If I was looking at it I would notice every little blemish and deduct accordingly.
Take your direction from what dealerships do. They do a lot to make a car look nice so people fall in love with it on sight. I would put some decent tires on it and fix the bumper, then raise the price. The customers who say they don't care about cosmetic issues are usually the ones who will use them to low-ball you.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Sold for $14K private party through Craigslist. $500 below TMV but $4,000 above Carmax offer. $10K + maintenance to drive the car for 4 years. Very happy. Gotta love that Honda resale value.
No, we do not have classifieds here and we don't use our Forums for buying and selling. You may want to have a look at our How to sell your car. article.
Location: Atlanta 1993 Honda Civic EX sedan (4DR), FWD, automatic Mileage: 44,225 (Yes, that is right, 44,225 miles) White/beige EX features: sunroof, air, bigger engine, 4 wheel anti-lock disc brakes Exterior is really good for its age, a few "kisses"; interior is excellent, back seat hardly ever used. Original brakes, no brake squeal or pedal vibration at all Tires are 10 years old, have 22k mi on them All maintenance performed at selling dealer--battery replaced 6 mos ago and thermostat replaced over the summer. One minor accident resulting in new front bumper cover when car was new in 1993. Did not hit hard enough to cause air bad to deploy.
I get the feeling I could get about $2k for it--thoughts?
heck, unless yer in a rush, I'd even go for $4995. People are stupid, frankly, when it comes to used Hondas. You'll probably be surprised at what you'll get for it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Oh yeah, I know. I've started checking tire ads and such. They'll be replaced within the next year or so. They're Michelins and they don't leak air, so I firgure it's not something that needs to be done today...if they start losing air pressure, then I'll speed up the search!
Does anyone know how to start a new thread? I couldn't find one that perfectly fits this topic; if anyone knows how I could create a thread specific to the topic, let me know.
I am trying to sell my '01 Pathfinder. I got a good offer of $ 5K from Carmax, but opted to sell to a used car dealer for $ 5800. I kept the Title and a $ 1K deposit. He took the car, returned the tags, put on dealer tags but had trouble paying me the remaining $ 4800. At one point he gave me a check, which bounced. Three weeks has passed. He just doesn't have the cash. He's giving me my car back, forfeiting his deposit.
What are my options at this point? Do I have to reregister the car, paying taxes and tagst? If so, that could eat up most of my deposit. I may end up getting a lower offer from Carmax because of the additional 500 miles the dealer put on the car running it back and forth to auctions. If I sell to a different dealer, as opposed to Carmax or an individual, will I have to put new tags etc on the car? To tell you the truth, I'm at wits end and don't want to have to tolerate any more dealers. Should I offer my current "buyer" a sweetheart deal of $ 3800 so that I get almost as much as I would get from Carmax but don't have to deal with trips to the MVA and appraisals?
I guess maybe this could depend on where you live, but isn't the car still registered in your name since you kept the title? How could the dealer have transferred it otherwise?
If you never signed over the title, just drive it to carmax and sign it over to them.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
In all probability he did not register the car yet as he was unable to sell it. And you still have the title. Unless you turned the plates in to your DMV, (I am assuming the dealer returned them to you), you could just put them back on the car, and proceed with your plans to sell it to another dealer.
And if he couldn't come up with the $4,800, what makes you sure he could come up with $3,800?
Sorry, I wasn't clear when I gave you the facts. The dealer, on my request, returned the tags to the MVA, after he took possession of it. Right now, all I have is the Title. The car is still with him but he's agreed to return it in the same condition that it was when I gave it to him. I keep the deposit.
On Carmax web-site, it insists on a valid registration. Any thoughts? Do you think I could just have the car towed to Carmax?
You're right, the bounced check should have been a clear signal. It's just that the dealer had sold my father-in-law two cars without any problem and had been a regular customer at my father-in-law's business.
well, if you still have the title, my thought is to head down to the DMV (or wherever you go in your state) with it, and just get new plates. Certainly seems you still own it.
And if you get to keep the deposit, looks like you will end up coming out ahead on the deal!
Again, probably a state thing, but here in NJ, they are not. Well.... that's not completely accurate. They are linked, BUT what I mean to say is I can return the plates to the DMV, but they don't give me a refund on the registration, so my registration is still valid. I just don't have plates. So, anyway, if carmax wants a valid registration, I could still show them one in the form of that piece of paper that has yet to expire.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I don't understand why the plates would have been returned to the state BMV.
I would just put my plates in the garage on a shelf if I sold a car and didn't replace it. But you hadn't sold the car. A dealer had taken it apparently to resell it for you?
You need to contact the BMV to see about getting replacement plates.
In NY, you have to turn in those plates as soon as the insurance is dropped or you start racking up fines and your license is suspended for 2 days for every day you hold onto the plates.
My Landcruiser blew a head gasket and my mechanic told me that it's dead. He's showing interest in buying it because he found an engine to put in it. The car was garage kept, so there's no rust, a few little scratches and dings. The engine only had 72k miles on it. I just put 4 new tires on it, has runners, grille guard, moon roof, roof rack and CD player. Since the engine is dead, how much is the car worth. He's offering $500-$1000 for it. Is it worth more than that?
I think your mechanic is trying to take you to the cleaners. Head gasket typically isn't THAT big of a deal to fry a motor and these are stout engines. A low mileage example like this in good shape will bring big money even with a blown motor. I've seen these sell for well over $5-6k even with 200k on the clock. I would find a good reputable and trustworthy mechanic because this one doesn't appear to be based on facts presented.
My mechanic said that he found a used engine for $4000. If my math serves me right, it'll cost me about $5-6k to fix it? I'm also thinking if I just donate the car, it'll only get me less than $1000 in a write off. I'm really confused.
That's absurd. Why would he want to fix it, then? Like I said, $5k fixed up ($6k if it had the original engine). So he's going to give you $1k for it, then buy a $4k engine, then spend 20 hours replacing, then sell for $5k?
Hmmm... this is getting more and more suspicious.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If you donate it, it will get you a deduction equal to whatever the charity can get for the vehicle at auction. So say they get $2,000 for it at auction that's your deduction. Assuming 25% tax bracket you save $500 in tax. Usually a bad deal after IRS changed the rules on vehicle donations.
I say get a second opinion on the motor.
$4,000 for engine doesn't sound right either. I would do some looking around on your own if you don't check with another mechanic. These have somewhat of a cult following and I'm betting it's worth more than you think. Your mechanic may really know and the fact he's interested in it....screams crook in my book.
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Where do you live that your family is worried about you being car-jacked in a Dodge Charger?
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I would love to see the numbers on this deal. I highly doubt they lost anything and probably laughed all the way to the bank. You bought a relatively low demand vehicle with a ton of add-on's that not many people would be interested in. I'm sure they marked up those add-on's to the moon and then gave you a huge discount. Unless you bought this thing for thousands under invoice and paid nothing extra for the gee-whiz stuff....you're gonna get hosed whether you trade it or private sale. More so on the trade-in but I have my doubts about seeing a private party deal quickly either. That's a tough sale IMHO.
"Nobody expects the bling-bling Dodge Charger SXT......" Sorry, lame Monty Python reference...but seriously when you're talking car jacking I was expecting a Lexus or Bentley....I mean if they don't feel safe in it just take off the racing stripes and rims and you'll look like every other rental car out there. You'll be further ahead by far and I'm sure someone will trade you stock rims....maybe even throw in a $100 or something. Then you'll just have to worry about random car jacking which would apply if you were in a Cavalier.....
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If I lived where ANY cars are being jacked I would keep the car and use it to drive to a new neighborhood.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
I am thinking of selling my Kia Rio5 SX with 24000 miles, A/T, power accessories. I had a used car manager rate it as "clean" and I would rate it as being in excellent condition (I've babied it, because it is my first car). I am in no rush to sell, but would like to get out of it in order to save money in the short term and long term use my car payment savings toward a down payment for a step up. My question is this, the kbb and the edmunds prices for the car are pretty far apart. Any sense of what might be a good starting point for pricing the car? Thanks
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Would you pay over 10k (before taxes and registration) for a 3+ year old Korean subcompact when you can get a base Nissan Versa with automatic for 12k (again, before taxes and registration)?
Edmunds Private Party Value- $9,863
KBB.com Private Party- $9205 (Excellent Cond) or $8655 (Good Cond)
NADA.com Retail Value (Clean)- $9,375
That w/ 24k miles, pw, pdl, alloy wheels, automatic and ABS.
Go to AutoTrader.com and do a search for the Kia Rio5, 2007-2007, and choose a search range of 500 miles (to get more results). In Atlanta, Carmax has one with the same specs as yours (23k miles) for $9988. A few private sellers are $9700-$9800 that will give you a better idea of what’s realistic in your market.
KBB puts the value at $2.640 (Private Party, Good Condition)
Edmunds isn’t so kind- TMV Private Party- $1,136
NADA Clean Retail- $2,850
I've bought and sold 12-13 cars over the years, so I have realistic expectations...but it seems like a solid $2500 SUV to me! Thoughts?
Again if it`s good,no point in selling it..Drive it into the ground or till something major blows up.
My advice,MHO-keep the Jeep,drive it till it dies,then junk it for about 300.
What do all of the posters think of starting at 9,999 (I really cannot go lower, though, than 9550 during negotiations). Thanks.
It also has steps, a moonroof visor and remote start.
So what is wrong? On the paint on the passenger side, there are some issues with the clear on the fender and both doors. It's just on the top so it doesn't look horrendous but close up it's an issue. I guess if it was a show car, you'd call it a 20 footer because if you drive by and see it sitting in the driveway, it looks really clean. There is also a rust spot in front of the back tire on the passenger side which seems to be a common problem spot for this car.
If I had the passenger side sprayed, it would be a really clean car but I'd rather not go through the effort and expense to sell it.
Here is a sample of the model (not my actual car)
But yes,not worth repainting or doing anything to that 12yr old Pathy.Sell it "AS IS" and disclose all the info to the buyer.Should be an easy sell on Craigslist with a good price..Let us know.
If this was an old $2000 beater I wouldn't fix anything just mention it to prospective buyers. This however, is a fairly new car with an Edmunds private party value of over $16K depending on mileage. If I was looking at it I would notice every little blemish and deduct accordingly.
Take your direction from what dealerships do. They do a lot to make a car look nice so people fall in love with it on sight. I would put some decent tires on it and fix the bumper, then raise the price. The customers who say they don't care about cosmetic issues are usually the ones who will use them to low-ball you.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Here's a link to some photos.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=1499&id=100000419628499&l=0bbd8f5996
No, we do not have classifieds here and we don't use our Forums for buying and selling. You may want to have a look at our How to sell your car. article.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
1993 Honda Civic EX sedan (4DR), FWD, automatic
Mileage: 44,225 (Yes, that is right, 44,225 miles)
White/beige
EX features: sunroof, air, bigger engine, 4 wheel anti-lock disc brakes
Exterior is really good for its age, a few "kisses"; interior is excellent, back seat hardly ever used.
Original brakes, no brake squeal or pedal vibration at all
Tires are 10 years old, have 22k mi on them
All maintenance performed at selling dealer--battery replaced 6 mos ago and thermostat replaced over the summer.
One minor accident resulting in new front bumper cover when car was new in 1993. Did not hit hard enough to cause air bad to deploy.
I get the feeling I could get about $2k for it--thoughts?
If it were mine, I would start at more like 4K.
these days, you can get 2K for just about anything that runs and doesnt look too hideous.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
People are stupid, frankly, when it comes to used Hondas. You'll probably be surprised at what you'll get for it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Even though low mileage, tires that are 10 years old could be dangerous and need to be replaced.
I am trying to sell my '01 Pathfinder. I got a good offer of $ 5K from Carmax, but opted to sell to a used car dealer for $ 5800. I kept the Title and a $ 1K deposit. He took the car, returned the tags, put on dealer tags but had trouble paying me the remaining $ 4800. At one point he gave me a check, which bounced. Three weeks has passed. He just doesn't have the cash. He's giving me my car back, forfeiting his deposit.
What are my options at this point? Do I have to reregister the car, paying taxes and tagst? If so, that could eat up most of my deposit. I may end up getting a lower offer from Carmax because of the additional 500 miles the dealer put on the car running it back and forth to auctions. If I sell to a different dealer, as opposed to Carmax or an individual, will I have to put new tags etc on the car? To tell you the truth, I'm at wits end and don't want to have to tolerate any more dealers. Should I offer my current "buyer" a sweetheart deal of $ 3800 so that I get almost as much as I would get from Carmax but don't have to deal with trips to the MVA and appraisals?
Help!!!!
If you never signed over the title, just drive it to carmax and sign it over to them.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
And if he couldn't come up with the $4,800, what makes you sure he could come up with $3,800?
To me, that would be a clear signal to go elsewhere.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
On Carmax web-site, it insists on a valid registration. Any thoughts? Do you think I could just have the car towed to Carmax?
You're right, the bounced check should have been a clear signal. It's just that the dealer had sold my father-in-law two cars without any problem and had been a regular customer at my father-in-law's business.
And if you get to keep the deposit, looks like you will end up coming out ahead on the deal!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Again, probably a state thing, but here in NJ, they are not. Well.... that's not completely accurate. They are linked, BUT what I mean to say is I can return the plates to the DMV, but they don't give me a refund on the registration, so my registration is still valid. I just don't have plates. So, anyway, if carmax wants a valid registration, I could still show them one in the form of that piece of paper that has yet to expire.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I would just put my plates in the garage on a shelf if I sold a car and didn't replace it. But you hadn't sold the car. A dealer had taken it apparently to resell it for you?
You need to contact the BMV to see about getting replacement plates.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Does the truck only have 72K on it or was the engine replaced at some point in the past?
My uneducated guess is about $2500-$3k.
If its in really nice shape, depending on how many miles the replacement engine has, you would probably have yourself a $5k vehicle when its fixed.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Hmmm... this is getting more and more suspicious.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I say get a second opinion on the motor.
$4,000 for engine doesn't sound right either. I would do some looking around on your own if you don't check with another mechanic. These have somewhat of a cult following and I'm betting it's worth more than you think. Your mechanic may really know and the fact he's interested in it....screams crook in my book.