Did you recently rush to buy a new vehicle before tariff-related price hikes? A reporter is looking to speak with shoppers who felt pressure to act quickly due to expected cost increases; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com for more details by 4/24.
Mazda RX-8 Problems and Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
First, I've never used anything but Premium in my 8. However, the manual does state that Regular is fine, but you will only give up some performance in its use....nothing more than that.
Are there other reasons the MAzda e-mails state regarding their fanaticism regarding the use of Premium only?
Also, 5K service cost me $22.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Pinging isn't going to hurt the apex seals, but detonation will. Pinging is a warning that detonation can't be too far in the future. Yes, just one detonation event -can- destroy an apex seal but it doesn't always. The shock wave has almost uncluttered access to the apex seals, whereas on a "boinger" (piston engine) the rings are down a bit from the top of the piston, so shock waves get attenuated before hitting them.
The 3rd gen RX-7 community (and to some extent turbo 2nd gen as well), thought the fix was to go back to 3 mm seals, or even the expensive ceramic seals. Turns out they also break and appear to do so just as easily. Mazda went to 2 mm seals to try to stop them from "fluttering" (bouncing) when passing over the exhaust port on the rotor housing - less mass means better control. The conclusion most have reached is the only fix to avoid breaking apex seals is to run a proper fuel mixture.
After saying all this, I doubt you could damage an RX-8 engine, even with 87 octane fuel, as long as you don't modifiy it.
For this caliber of sports car, what a pain in the butt.
golfbuddy...that's the first I have heard about plugs fouling while you're driving. My dealership, which I have a lot of faith in, has said that, like any car, not to turn off the RX8 if it's in "cold/choke" mode. I've done this more than once with no flooding problems. I've also heard that "blipping" the throttle immediately before shutdown should be done. My techs don't see how that helps and it's somethign I've never practiced, but if if works for you, have at it.
I've experienced several of the popular recurring problems posted at this site. In October, I experienced the dreaded fouled spark plugs when I moved my RX-8 from my driveway into the garage. Couldn't start it the next day and had to have it towed. Dealer gave me the same story on my '94 RX-7 (make sure car's warm before shutting it off), but NEVER had the problem with the RX-7. It seems to me that it would be worth mentioning in the Owner's manual that moving your car 30 feet might render it undriveable.
I also had the "oil light problem" when I would drive on I95 at 80 MPH or so for more than 20 minutes. Dealer replaced the pan/sensor (same time as the sparkplugs!) and this problem has not re-occurred, but admittedly, I've done less highway driving lately.
Now today the LATEST PROBLEM: When I started the car after work today, my tire pressure warning light came on. It went off when I was halfway home. I'm attributing this to the fact that it was about 15 degrees, and the pressure didn't reach a "threshold" until the tires warmed up. Does this make sense?
I just love the way the car looks. It's awesome. But these nuisance problems are quite annoying. I also had EXTREME difficulty obtaining my "overstated horsepower" deal from Mazda, but I finally got the $500 giftcard in mid-December. Hopefully I won't have any more problems - I want to love this car, but it's testing me.
i apologize for my abruptness, but driving to work in the snow today and watching all the idiots spin their cars right off the road has got me a bit short on patience.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The way I see it, your oil sensor was replaced (mine was done about two months ago) under warranty. No more problems.
Your tire pressure light operated exactly as it was supposed to. You really can't fault the car. It told you that one (or more) of your tires dropped below or went above the "pre-set" pressure while you were driving. That's what it's supposed to do. Mine has done the same thing. At my next fill-up, I check all the tires and sure enough, one of my tires needs air. I adjust them accordingly.
My 8 warms up quickly. Although, I've started and stopped mine cold, I've never had an issue. That said, I live in a remote 'burb. Anytime I drive my RX8 to go somewhere, it is going to be driven for more than a couple of miles.
As qbrozen said, it's a good idea to get any car to operating temps before shutting down.
As a general rule of thumb, I start and drive my RX8 without any elaborate "warm-up" procedure....just start and drive. I also don't shut it down unless the tach has settled into the 750 RPM range (no rich mode).
Quite frankly, I'm hearing an awful lot about flooding/stalling recently on many brands that's leading me to believe this is a "fuel issue"...maybe a change in winter fuel formulations? A difference in refinery process? Emmissions standards are ever changing. Perhaps the attempts to succomb to the different stardards is causing some of this?
My neighbor had his '03 Accord flat bedded to the dealership for flooding and no start a couple of weeks ago. I'm thinking of adding a Scion xB to the graphicguy stable come spring for Lowes duty. I've been following that thread and, again, talk of flooding/stalling seems to be an issue there, too.
Interesting message strings - I'm considering an RX8 to replace the good old RX7. Some of it's familiar and some of it is due to "advances" in technology. We all know the car is unique - that's part of the fun and the frustration.
Death to the Z cars !
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Bottom line, you should be checking/adjusting your tire pressures regularly, when cold (before driving). Tire pressures dropping when it gets cold is due to both loss of air (due to leaking because the materials get cold and don't seal as well along the bead) and just shrinkage of air when cold.
pathstar...although I haven't been to tire threads here for a while, you're right...it's filled with some good information.
q....what are your thoughts about the Scion xB? I've only seen one in person and it belongs to a local tire store. It doesn't matter much to me what it looks like. I just want something to haul 2X4s and gardening supplies with (so I don't dirty up the RX8). Pricing and equipment look pretty darn good on the Scion, considering it would probably cost about the same as a new "stripper" pick-up truck. Of course, they won't be available in the OH valley till sometime this spring/summer.
ummmmm.... on topic... um.... what is with the letter "x" in car names?? i find it rather annoying. At least the RX has been around since way before the "x" craze.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
While the "tire pressue indicator" in the RX8 is a bit more sensitive than those in other cars, I've never found it to be wrong.
I'll be choosing a base 6-speed, Titanium/black cloth, with only the cargo net as an option. My only performance modification will be eventually to install a chip that restores the car's original power.
Rather than add exterior ornaments (strakes, etc.), I'll be removing all the badging so the car looks as clean as possible.
I plan to keep this car for many years and want my RX-8 as light and simple as it can be. The base car's standard equipment already is more than adequate for my needs, and none of the factory options makes the car go a bit faster or perform a bit better, so why buy them? : )
I'm a rotary-head, no question about it. My first rotary was the almost unheard of 1970 Mazda R100 (http://www.mazdarotary.net/mazda_r100.htm). It was tiny, beautiful, and its engine blew up regularly. But it addicted me to rotaries. It also taught me that if you don't drive a rotary the way you should, you will encounter the problems that have been cropping up on this board.
While most contributors to this board understand and appreciate their RX-8s, I'm surprised by the utter cluelessness of some people who've complained about lack of toque and flooding issues, and seem disappointed that the RX-8 doesn't drive like a conventional car.
In my humble opinion, all these folks should have bought G35s. Everybody would be happier: Mazda, Nissan, the owners, and especially us, who have to read their endless whining.
Which reminds me: No more requests for turbo- or supercharging PLEASE! If you want a turbo on this car you're completely missing the point! (Which is that the RX-8's power, when restored to 250, will be more than adequate for its mission. A turbo severely compromises a car's driveability.)
My main point, though, is that the RX-8 is an exotic, as sophisticated as any Italian supercar. Its rotary engine cannot be driven like a Camry V6. Just as with a Ferrari, if you try to drive an RX-8 like a Camry, bad things will happen. Count on it!
Like a highly-tuned piston engine, the rotary makes demands on its owner that other engines don't. If those demands are not complied with, the owner will have problems, GUARANTEED. What some people here don't understand that problems like flooding are due to the owner's lack of understanding rather than the car's shortcomings.
As an example, the best way to destroy a rotary is to lug it. But non rotary-heads who are used to high-torgue piston engines will lug their RX-8 by default. I blame the dealers for not adequately qualifying/informing their RX-8 customers. Those dealers' service departments will end up suffering as a result. And so will Mazda's reputation when the RX-8 is branded as a lemon by unhappy and uninformed ex-owners.
Being a happy rotary owner is NOT a hard thing to do. Just follow a few simple precepts: change the oil frequently (5000 miles max); use premium gas; warm the car up thoroughly (don't trust the temp gauge, give it at least 10 mins); and keep the revs up (never below 4000, normally 5000 - 8000). That's about it!
Follow these simple rules and you'll avoid flooding/low torque issues, and your rotary engine will last indefinitely. As will the rest of the car. Mazdas are legendary for their longevity. All my Mazdas (except the R100) have been virtually problem-free, even with high miles. Hard driving helps keep them young. And me too!
If everybody understood how to drive their rotaries, we could use this board to discuss the real issues, like upcoming CPU replacement options from different tuners, and the minor problems that really are the factory's fault, like the oil pan design causing the warning light to come on. An informed customer is good for the dealer and the manufacturer, and a board like this is invaluable to owners who love their cars.
I hope to become a regular contributor, so now you know where I'm coming from! Thanks again for all the info, especially graphicguy!
Obviously, I'm in agreement with you. Rotaries are special.
Neither better nor worse than their piston counterparts, just different.
If one doesn't understand the uniqueness of the RX8, then, by all means, they should buy something else that's more mundane.
However, those that do understand what they've got will be rewarded with a car with outstanding performance characteristics.
While I do not warm mine up before drive off, I do drive it more than just a 1/2 a mile before shut down. I just jump in and drive....no thought given to flooding. Plus, I live in w wintery climate.
If you're just now taking delivery, the oil level sensor and pan baffles are probably already installed.
I'm more than satisfied with the performance of my 8. When the warranty is up, I may look into the "stage 1" mod. Until then, I'll be "zooming" along. I know of several first gen RXs with more than 250K miles without having anything done to the seals. With proper care, the RENESIS should be no different.
Funny story...last Saturday, I had parked my 8 in front of a local eatery. A group of women were across the street from where I parked and shouted to me as I was entering...."hey, is that a Ferrari you've got?"....my answer, "It's an RX8". Ladies..."WOW, I'm going to have to remember that Ferrari has a new RX8 model on the market....."
question: do you normally have an abundance of Ferrari's hanging out at your local eatery? :-)
JohnCali: GGuy is our forum hero! Glad to hear you are getting an RX8 for yourself!
Funny thing about the Ferraris, the closest dealership is easily 100 miles away. I can't think of maybe one or two that I've ever scene on the road around here. I've scene some at Concours events, but those are mostly trailer queens. I've seen plenty of them on the road in Vegas and the San Fran Bay area.
Ohio just isn't a hot bed for esoteric cars like Lambos and Ferraris. Mostly, the most exotic thing scene on the roads around here are Corvettes, and of course, RXs. Biggest status symbols are Lincoln and Caddy SUVs....even with a Rolls dealer within 20 minutes of my home. The only Rolls that I've seen around here is owned by a local "magnate" who owns (or used to own) Chiquita (as in bananas). It's a nice one, too...a convertible.
Considering that the ladies who mistakenly saw my car as something it wasn't were parking a very nice previous gen BMW 7 series, I would doubt they would have known what a Ferrari looked like. Maybe if they ever did see one on the road, they'd mistake it for an RX8?
LOL!
Actually, that's pretty funny.
If I thought, even remotely, that my car would make me more appealing to the fairer sex, I would have bought it without driving it and site unseen while paying well over sticker.
In all honesty, I've never thought about cars having any sort of "sex appeal", but if that is indeed the case, I'll start driving the RX8 more. I'm certainly not getting any 2nd looks driving my Civic. I've just attributed it to the fact that females don't get the full bennefit of my "sparkling personality" when they see me in the Civic;-)
Chas.C.
Is this normal? Anyone else notice anything like this in neutral with your 6MT? Thanks.
Two sources I know of, 1st is free, 2nd one costs:
www.finishlineperformance.com/rx8/docs/index.html
and
www.alldata.com
Hope this helps.
For someone who has concluded that spelling and grammar are no longer a part of the English language, especially on the Internet, I was delighted to see both of those lost arts applied so adeptly in you posting. Thanks.
BTW -- do you have anymore info. on the chip to which you referred? 12 ponies isn't much, but if it's not too expensive, and won't void the warranty, I'd like to check it out.
What exactly did you mean by warm the car up thoroughly? Sit in the car for ten minutes, or keep the rpm's down for that length of time?
The only observation I can make that isn't in your favor is your choice of color -- red, there is no substitute.
A few questions:
I line in Southern California (Riverside city to be exact). Do I need to warm the 8 up (I am not an owner but in the market to buy)? It can be 38 to 42 degrees F in the morning from December to March. What outside air temperature would be good for not needing warming up?
If you don’t know it, Southern California has traffic problems. One poster here (namely, johncalifornia) talks about not lugging around your car but keep revs above 4000. Well, in S. Cal, it can take three light changes to make it through an intersection, then often on the hi-way it is stop and go.
Talk of this car reminds me of the movie “A New Leaf” Starring: Walter Matthau, Elaine May; Synopsis: Light romantic comedy about destitute rogue romancing wealthy young woman. Critics felt this '70s farce was a near-miss of a great film, but appealing for fans of era's comedies.
In this movie Walter Matthau’s Ferrari is always breaking down since he can not drive in New York like a Ferrari should. If that’s the case with the 8, then I guess I need to look for something different.
Q: anyone ever built a diesel oil Wankel type engine?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I don't remember anyone mentioning having their cars flood during warm or mild weather, which is what I would imagine Riverside, CA having. even with temps in the teens in the OH valley, I just jump into my car start it and drive it away after the RPMs settle down (maybe a minute?) and let it warm up while driving. That's true of both warm and cold driving temps.
"Lugging" the car, in my estimation, means trying to drive in a gear that causes the engine RPMs to drop to somewhere around 2.5K RPM while in 5th or 6th.
I wind mine out to about 3.5k RPM until the engine warms up (not difficult to do). That keeps you within the speed limit, whithout lugging it while still cold. After warm-up, I'll bounce it off the rev limiter at least once/day.
This car warms up quickly. If you're stuck in stop and go traffic, it will warm up even quicker as you'll have a lot of "idling" time.
No need to be worried about this car. Just take some easy to do precautions (like not starting and shutting down before warm-up) and you'll be very happy.
I've never even heard of anyone trying to build a diesel version of the rotary, throughout its history.
redrpm, glad to see you're back....how's your car since you've received it back from service?
To give a bit more info on this, you don't even need to step on the clutch completely to get it to go away. You can just gently touch the pedal and that will, I guess, take up the slack and stop the noise. I know I asked a true mechanic about this once but don't remember if I got a satisfactory answer. And since my years as a mechanic were limited, its not something I ever ran into as a problem.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'm making an "educated guess" that the sound isn't necessarily "grinding" per se, but actually more a "whirling" sound coming from the clutch housing....engine is spinning without load added to the gears, clutch and driveline.
Like you, I've heard the same thing in other manual tranny cars. The RX8's sound is different and probably a bit more pronounced, but not one I would consider detrimental.
Ironically, in other vehicles the dash vents tend to receive the lion share of air flow when you split it between the dash and floor vents. Comments welcomed.
I noticed something recently while adding a quart that someone else had posted about. It was a light brown condensation on my dipstick (no jokes please). It appears to be just water condensation.
The dealership, which responded to my inquiry about the mysterious material sight unseen, made the suggestion above. I tend to agree. And the fricking cold temperatures here make the condensation even more likely.
I'm in the market for a set of snow tires. It will most likely be a combination of tires and wheels. Anyone have any recommendations?
C'mon springtime.
Just in case anyone thinks I'm too "pro RX8", I've got some other "nit picks".....
--location of the remote trunk release (if anyone knows a better way to find it by "feel", I'm listening).
--needs some sort of gas cap holder somewhere on the car...yes, I've seen some home made solutions, but with such a well engineered car, someone at Mazda overlooked this.
--can't fit more than 3 CDs in the center console
--NAV system is slow to initialize upon start-up. Please, someone find a way to disable that infernal "start-up" screen.
Condensation on the dipstick is something I've heard about with a couple of posters. I don't know that there's much that can be done about it with the winter weather short of adding some sort of "gromlet" to the top of the dipstick for a better seal at the top of the dipstick tube.
I know the brakes on the RX8 are outstanding. I haven't read the CR article to know which package they tested with their RX8.
Joan...there's a special holder that the dealer should have installed to hold the front plate since your state requires it. IF it's not there, then take the car back to have them put it on.
Airports are now the most dilligient in enforcing the "Front Plate" rule due to the security measures currently in place. While unfortunate, it's probably better to detract a smidge from the looks of the front by putting the plate and holder on your 8, than to risk a ticket or worse, a tow.