Mazda RX-8 Problems and Solutions

vtlc

Thanks to all, for the much needed info on my concerns. Looks like until something else comes up I'll be rolling in my 8 as a happy camper agian.

graphicguy

Keep us posted on how things go. Glad you found a dealer who has a half way decent service dept.

dragon940

I have gas/fuel in my oil in my rx8. I called the service department when I first noticed this around 700 miles on the car. Service said this can be normal for this engine. I had my oil changed at 3000 miles. I am now at 4300 miles and still have gas in my oil. I spoke to a mechanic, ASE master cetified for 35 years. He says no way, that is not normal. It dilutes the oil and the oil can't lubricate like it is supposed to. I just called Mazda service again. Mazda still says this can be normal in a rotary. They did say I could bring it in and they would check it out. Who is right and how worried should I be about this?

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mazdafun

It occurs in regular old reciprocating piston engines too, but probably to a lesser degree than with a rotary engine. It's one reason to change the oil regularly.

What matters is how much in the number of miles you've driven. For that, I'd have to defer to Mazda's recommendation, though you can send a sample of your oil to an independent test lab for their opinion. Check the Mazda6 boards for one referral. I think someone recently sent a sample of oil from his 6 (running on synthetic) in for testing, and he's now going longer between changes based upon the results he received.

rotarykid

they do tend to get a noticeable amount of gas in the oil and you should not drive more than 3k without changing the oil. An engineer @ mazda gave me the reason why years ago, and at that time it sounded very logical and reasonable for the mixture, but I cant remember what exactly caused it. The ASE certified tech of 35 years knows an awful lot about cars with that type of experience, but rotary engines are a rare breed and you would need just as many years on rotaries alone to be an expert on one. Frequent short trips will result in even more gas in the oil.

rider1950

The engine light goes on every 400 to 500 miles, just left it for service. The service manager has no clue , but says they will check it out. I have just been re-setting the computer. Has anyone experienced this problem? Also, just got a recall notice on the driver air bag not deploying, something to do with the wiring harness...glad I haven't needed it so far. Have 4000 miles getting 17.5 MPG., mixed driving. I'm OK with that, but would like to see it improve. It is a great handling car, but you sure have to push it to get competetive. With normal acceleration (shifting at 5,000 rpm)from a dead stop, a mini-van will beat me 0-60 by 5 car lengths. I'm starting to think I would have liked the new GTO better. Can't beat torque for the feel it has, and this car has no torque. My Harley has no RPM range, but what a great pull from 2000 to 5000 RPM.

young16

Only 1,000 miles on my 8. A couple of thoughts. In the Milwuakee area we have formulated gas, which reduces mileage (and does other stuff not good to an engine). In mostly cool weather 30 -45*, shifting at 3,500 rpm, 70 /30 hwy / city and using Premium fuel I get 18 - 20 MPG. I've read in this thread everything from running at 4-5,000 RPM gets the best MPG to running it hard and you can't expect great mileage. The MANUAL says sifting at 12, 16, 26, 36, 46 (about I don't have the manual with me) [shifts < 3,000 rpm] will get the best mileage. 20 MPG's seems to be a decent target, but keep in mind the weather, type of gas, and driving habits which seem to contradict each other at times. In the end a few MPG's less than advertised costs about 2 bucks a tank. Cheap thrills.
Chris

qbrozen

resetting your computer every 500 miles is not helping your mileage. Usually, a reset on a computer controlled car results in much poorer mileage since the computer has to start its learning process all over again.

graphicguy

Something's wrong with your car given resetting the computer so often and getting beat out by a mini-van....yep, something is definitely wrong.

qbrozen

i think he meant if he doesn't get the revs up on the engine and he drives as if he's driving a Civic and trying to break 30 mpg, THEN he gets beat by a minivan. But that's just my interpretation.

kbull

After a couple months of perusing this board, and thanks largely in part to those who gave their advice and opinions here, I finally bought an RX-8 this past weekend. Titanium gray, grand touring package, manual transmission. Awesome car! Thanks again to everyone on this board who helped me make this decision.

I have a couple of questions which, given the history in here, I think you guys can probably answer. My most minor concern is the flooding issue, or quirk, since it might not even attain issue status. Since I have a stick shift, is there any reason not to use the push and pop technique to get the engine started? I know this is usually applied in lieu of jumping a dead battery, but would it work for a flooded engine? And does it make a difference that the engine is a rotary? I'm already taking the precautions suggested earlier in this thread, so I don't anticipate ever running into this problem, but it never hurts to know....

Secondly, since this is my first new car, I'm a little unfamiliar with the break-in period. I understand that gas mileage won't be up to par until 1k miles or so, due mainly to manufacturing imperfections that are smoothed out through running the engine over time, right? I've also heard that it's not a good idea to drive it hard during the first 500 miles or so (which is SOOO hard to avoid). If this is true, why do dealers encourage you to push the car to its limits during test drives? Maybe it's an old fashioned concept, but if anyone here has any info regarding break in, or personal experience of how they handled their first few hundred miles, I'd appreciate it if you'd share with everyone. Thanks a bunch, fellas.

pathstar1

are both problems dealt with in the "L" flash (part number ends in an "L"). That should fix up your car. The PCM is set too sensitive to sensor parameters causing MIL warnings, and the reflash fixes that and improves the mileage (they lean the car out in several RPM ranges).

brianath

First let me say that I am a Rotary engine lover. I owned the first generation and got 98,000 miles with only 4 sets of tires required! Nothing else mechanical needed.

So when they brought out the RX-8 and it had 4 seats... I couldn't wait. Well while my wife and I really love the way the car rides and handles, we are considering taking Mazda up on their buy back offer if we can get it. This car is rapidly becoming a regular at the dealer's repair shop.

Under 500 miles the car would VIOLENTLY pull to one side or the other and it did not matter which way the crown was on the road. The wheel would turn in your hands if you let it. Dealer cut my rotors and pronounced it as fixed. It has continued to misbehave - though no where as often.

2,000 miles the check engine light and water both appeared the same day. New plugs and evaporator and this incident is history, though it took 3 days to get the car back.

Now at 4,043 miles the engine would not start smells completely flooded. Drove the car around the block to warm it up so I could move it the ten feet necessary to get it into the garage. Reved engine to 3,000 rpm and then shut it off with engine temp 1/2 to normal operating range. 7 minute ride was more than what I thought was necessary, given that my RX-7 with 98,000 miles still only used 1/2 quart per oil change and never needed molly coddling.

1) How can I tell if the "L" flash was done?
2) Anyone else had "flooding"
3) Anyone else had the antilock brake problem?
4) Anyone take advantage and actually have Mazda buy back their RX-8? I really would hate to see it go, but my wife is now terrified of getting stuck in Jersey City at 8PM, and so am I. If the car can not be reliable it can not stay in my garage.

But man sure is a sweet lookin thing. I got it all - every option they had - every body dressing, larger wheels - super sticky tires - (But not in the snow!) My RX-7 was excellent in the snow, boy that car would GO!

graphicguy

I'll give my take...pathstar may want to chime in too....

flooding....some have had problems but the vast majority of us have not. "popping the clutch" is one way to get it running again if flooded. The other is to hold down the accelerator to the floor and crank until the gas has been cleared out of the chambers. From what I've heard, changing the "lead" plugs to the "hot plugs" also takes care of the issue. Personally, I've never had an issue regardless of weather/temps, whether I start/shutdown mine for a few seconds when cold or a few hours.

With the "L" reflash, my MPG went up about 20% with no discernable difference in performance. As a matter of fact, performance "feels" better, but I haven't done any testing to verify....just my "buttometer". I did do a test of performance when I first got mine this past summer and it was pretty much what the "trade rags" said it would do.

If the car is pulling violently, it could be several things....

--tire out of round
--tire balance is off
--tire has broken belt

Those would be the first things I'd check.

I'm not familiar with any anti-lock brake problems.

CEL has several fixes. Your dealer did one of them. The other is to have the EVAP unit replaced and/or to "reflash" the ECU (make sure to get the "L" reflash").

Snow driving with performance tires on any car is not a good thing. Those that have put snow tire on have reported that the car does just fine. Winter driving is more about your tires and winter driving experience than anything else.

The Mazda "buyback" offer is long gone. It was made to the first 3,000 or so folks who pre-ordered their cars with incorrect HP ratings (I was one of them). I kept my car because it is a wonderful car, regardless on what the numbers on a piece of paper said.

tomatnavy

I have had this happen several times on my rx8--always while braking.The dealer I took it to doesn't have a clue.Its a rare occurance nevertheless a potentially dangerous one. It happened once while I was braking hard from 60mph--it almost tore the stearing wheel from my hands.I had to stop braking and sort of test the brakes my pumping them.This seems to correct the problem.I had the dealer document this problem and will continue to monitor this myself.It seems to happen mostly on a grade.I have about 2000 miles on the car--so we will see how it goes from here.The flooding problem is an interesting one.No problems with my rx8 as of yet. However,I did own a rx7[1986] for 15years and had this problem occur perhaps 20 times.I always carried jumper cables with me in case this happened.The way to start it was to jump it with another car and crank the starter continuously {while keeping the gas peddle fully depressed]until the car starter.This may take some time but you must keep at it. When I donated the car it had some 225000 miles on the orignal started--so it can take the cranking. However, I went thru many batteries.One would think that Madza could correct this problem after some 20 years.

qbrozen

there might not be a way to correct it. Could just be an unavoidable aspect of the rotary engine. So I wouldn't be so quick to blame mazda for not correcting it.

brianath

First let me say that I do like the car alot. My main concern is that my wife will find herself in Jersey City at 8PM after just starting the car and get an "emergency" call on her cell and shut down the car and run back in. Several hours later will she find herself flooded in te middle of the night?

I had the orginal 1978? (unsure of year) and never experienced any problems, not even the clutch.

Where are the plugs on the renesis? Still on top?

I thought that a little starting ether would clean them and then reinstall. Big job? Maybe some ether in the air intake?

Dealer hasn't told he started it yet, it's snowing 6 inches here and they won't test drive it to check the vibration at 65MPH or the pulling.

I think the pulling is an ABS issue as under hard breaking the ABS should kick in. Mine has never rattled my pedal. Though I have never really tested it. I am concerned as before they cut the rotors, the wheel would have been pulled out of my wife's hands if she continued braking. It was just as likily to pull against the slope as go with it. It even switched directions of the pull when I pumped the brake. It is definitely better since they cut the rotors, though I have seen it twice since.

pathstar1

It recognizes the flooding issue, and gives detailed unflooding procedures. There are two nipples on the intake (one for each rotor) to which you can add oil to help seal the rotors so they can dispatch any fuel built up (and protect against extreme wear of the seals in a "washed down" - by the fuel - rotor housing). It also mentions the cat. failures caused by the fuel from flooding.

Bottom line, it states "put in the "L" flash to help avoid the flooding problem".

A must read for all owners, and it says so!

If you don't know where to find it, search for Mazda RX-8 TSBs. They may even be on this board, I'm sure a moderator will comment.

graphicguy

OK...now, I see....the pulling happens when braking....

I'd still check the tires first to make sure everything is in order there.

I've braked mine pretty hard....I don't know if ABS kicked in or not. If it did, it was a fairly benign feeling coming from the pedal.

You could also ask your dealer to "re-seat" the brake pads....cutting the rotors is another way...

Or, it could be a combination of a tire/brake "thing".

Any car I've ever had (lots of them over 25 years of driving) that "pulled" when braking usually had pads or rotors that needed some sort of attention.

If it is related to some sort of ABS application, then the sensors are applying uneven pressure to the brakes when it kicks in. Since you didn't feel any pulsation through the brake pedal, I'd look at that last, however.

While I haven't experienced this with my RX8, in other new cars I've owned, I've had the "pulling" you described. But, I always could trace it back to me doing "hard braking" when the car was relatively new. That caused the pads to be replaced or reseated since I didn't give the brakes enough "break-in" time (no pun intended).

jhuang76

I've been a big fan of the old RX-7, and I'm currently thinking of getting the RX-8 (maybe an '05).

Anyways, here is a link to some good info on DIY unflooding for the old RX-7 (and should work fine for RX-8)

http://www.rx7.com/tech/index.html

cheezeboy

Hey all....got a squeak.....when I brake....really high pitched, not very loud, but there.....drives me crazy....I asked the dealer to look at it...brakes look fine, they said....hard to tell where it's coming from....only 7500 miles on her, so the brakes should be good....does not happen every time I brake, nor does it matter if I stop hard or slowly, at a high speed or going slow - it is a random squeak.

and no, gguy, I have no mice in my car!!...LOL!!...

any thoughts from the experts is welcome.

hop

I am getting close to pulling the trigger with the RX-8. I've done the research and test driven the cars and love the feel and look as well as the growing reputation. question though: I like the Grand Touring Package but at almost 6 ft tall, find it difficult to drive w/out my head against the roof...due I presume both to the lower roof (moonroof) and the higher seat (electric)...anybody else my size in a fully loaded model...what is your experience...any thoughts? I also checked out the sport package, but so much other stuff is missing from the car that I don't feel like I'm getting all I want (even tho the headroom is demonstrably better). I am loath to try and load up on options at the dealership and likely wouldn't want to stomach either the cost or the potential loss in bargaining power by not getting a car "off the lot". any advice welcome.

PS I also posted this under the Buying Experience town hall...in case you are seeing double

mazdafun

Get more headroom. Even without hitting bumps and potholes (and the subsequent knocks on the head), having your head touching the headliner will make your neck ache after only a few days.

tomatnavy

I'm 6'3" and have the grand touring package.You can adjust to the low roof some by tilting the seat back. I have had a few bumps on the head but nothing serious. No long drives so I don't know how comfortable it would be. The package is nice and here in s. California it seems to be the only one to get discounted.

kbull

I pondered the same question before buying my 8. At 6'2", I had some reservations about being able to fit comfortably. But I'd have to agree with tomatnavy- the seat has plenty of adjusting power, and even though my head rides close to the ceiling, I haven't yet been bumped. Also, I think you're right about the GT package- too much good stuff to miss.

graphicguy

Are you sure the squeak is coming from the brakes?

Is so, sometimes the calipers don't release fully from the disks...that could casue a squeak from the brake area.

Also, while I doubt it, the squeak could also be coming from the sepentine belt slipping. Dealer would have to readjust the belt tensioner. Or, your serpentine belt could be "glazed" which could cause slipping (and in turn, squeaking).

While rare, if your airbox has a dirty air filter, strange noises have been known to turn up when air is being "sucked" through it.

mikem1

This past weekend the wife and I drove 3 "coupes" as a potential replacement for our sedan--a 350Z, BMW 325CI oupe and the RX8.

All three cars were different. The 350Z had good pickup but i found the interior a turnoff and around town I had some trouble getting used to the cluth--we also have Boxster 5-spd. The styling seemed good but i thought this more sports car than an all-weather sporty coupe.

We then drove a 325 5spd; nice car, smooth engine and gear box, good brakes but for the money seemed like a run of the mill car--wife didn't get too excited about it.

fianlly drove the RX8--liked everything about it; the stling maybe a bit less than the performance, but it was the best of the three.

Questions:
After reviewing this board, I'd like to get a few issues resolved before we make a deision on this car:
Mileage--what is realistic highway mileage?

Oil consumption--how much oil do you use and what is the drain period? does the car use synthetic?

Gasoline--Premium or regular unleaded? I've heard different stories.

Snow tires--this car has to be 4 season--is there a tire wheel combo that will work in the winter? I'm hoping a 17" wheel will work sincethere are no 18" winter tires.

problems:
flooding--what's the fix and how wide spread is it?
Oil sensor replacement--has this been fixed now at the fatory?
Any other problems with this car?

Thanks for any help.
mike

graphicguy

I'll give this a shot since I think I've had my RX8 about the longest of anyone else here (first week in August '03).

MPG--If you're like most, you're MPG will start out pretty dismal. As it breaks in, it should get better. Make sure that your dealer has a car with the "L" ECU reflash. If not, make that a condition of the purchase. The reflash will net you more MPG and better performance.

Expected MPG range for city driving is about 15-18 MPG. All highway will net you 19-25 MPG. Of course, all this depends on how often you take the RPMs up into the "nether" regions.

You can run the RX8 on regular, as others say there is no difference. Manual says that best performance needs Premium, but you can "run it" on regular. Personally, I wouldn't put anything but Premium in mine. The extra $2-$3 per fill-up doesn't mean anything to me by using Premium.

By all reports, those that use the car in winter have used 17" snow tires and combined with trac control, say the car does just fine. I don't drive mine in snow, however.

I use about a 1/2 qt of oil between oil changes (every 5K miles). It's always a good idea to check the oil every 2nd or 3rd fill-up regardless of the car you drive. Rotaries, by design, will use a little bit of oil.

While those who have had a "flooding issue" will say it's a pain, the vast majority of owners haven't had an issue. The sure fire way to not flood it is to make sure the engine is warmed up before shut down (mainly a winter issue). Those that have had the problem, had their dealer put in "hot plugs" (Mazda should cover this) and haven't reported any problems since.

Oil level sensor fix should already be installed on any recent RX8.

Great car....you're gonna love it if you get one.

mikem1

We're in OH also, near Ashland.

Regarding the L ECU reflash--is there a TSB on this? I ask since a lot of dealers roll their eyes when you mention internet forum info--even though it may be right on the money.

Do you use synthetic oil?

Any idea which 17" rims would fit this car?

mkoll

I have a GT with auto trans and 3500 miles, purchased in October 03. Yesterday I went to pull the car out of the garage and the transmission would not settle into reverse imediately and when it finally did I would hear a whining / squeeling noise which lasted several seconds. I could feel the trans slipping. I drove it today and in "drive" everything seems ok, reverse still creates the problem. It seems to slip and squeel for several seconds. Took it to the dealer today.
Anyone else had transmission issues?
Also, asked the dealer to check my 6-CD changer / player. Seems to randomly skip, stop, or can't find the track. Any thoughts on that?

mikem1

Regarding the L ECU reflash--any TSB's on this?
 I ask since suggestions like this to service guys that haven't heard of them is like water off a ducks back.

Do you use synthetic oil?

any idea which 17" rims would work on this car?

redrpm

Regarding snow tires, I highly recommend Bridgestone's Blizzak LM-22. They come in the stock 225/40/18 size and, while not cheap, perform wonderfully. Their dry performance is excellent...very quick turn-in and response. Their snow traction is equally impressive. I just came through Vail pass (11,000 ft) here in CO yesterday in heavy snow and near white out conditions with full confidence. Never slipped, although SUVs all around me were struggling, including a fresh rollover.

Mind you, I didn't intend to have the 8 out in those conditions! But the Blizzaks have proved themselves time and again this winter...yesterday being their biggest challenge and they came through with flying colors. I just can't say enough about them.

And if you go with the stock size, you don't have to mess with swapping out the tire pressure monitoring sensors on new wheels. Dunlop also made a snow tire in the 18" size for a good bit less but for winter assurance and no loss in dry performance the LM-22s can't be beat IMO.

Lastly, general opinion is to stick with non-synthetic oil.

Go for the 8. You won't see yourself coming and going, and it's really the best performance value out there.

cheezeboy

gguy - I know it's the brakes now. Had a passenger who listened out the window...coming from the rear wheels.....it's not the normal brake squeak when you have no pads.....it's just a slight thing....I will talk to the dealer again.

mkoll - as the only other vocal AT owner here, I have to say the first 8K miles on my girl have been fine. No transmission slippage. However, it will make a nice "clunk" sound after I stop and put her into park. But she's been doing that since day one. I just want to know how you could put 3500 miles on since October?....that's when I bought mine!! I got a big lead on you!! :-)

mikem1

Good info on the Blizzaks; do you have them mounted on the regular wheels or did you get another set.

OEM tires--is there more than one brand used on this car or is the Bridgestone RE040 the only tire mazda has chosen with this tire? Would appreciate views of the OEM tire.
Mike

graphicguy

cheeze....sounds like you need to talk to the dealer as you suggested.

oil...while I've never seen or heard that the RENESIS won't do fine with synth oil (since the manual really doesn't say anything one way or the other), the generally accepted rule of thumb is dino oil only.

tires...I've got the Potenzas on my car. I've heard that Mazda does use other brands, though. I've never checked to see if the ones on my dealer's lot has anything different. I'll do that next oil change. Like others, I think you would want 18" snows on your car in the winter for all the reasons stated here. But, they are costly. It's been reported that 17" tires/rims work just fine except you need to make sure the tire pressure sensors are recaliabrated.

mkoll

Dealer called me today with the bad news. They said my transmission is messed up internally and Mazda will be replacing the entire trans. Looks like I will be without the car for another 3 or 4 days. Needless to say, that sucks.

Cheeze -
I only drive mine about 700 miles per month,as you can tell. We have 3 cars and I usually have 2 of them at my disposal so I don't drive my 8 when the weather is bad, especially not in the snow.
Since the weather is getting better, my total miles per month will increase some.
I heard that same clunk when I would put the car in park. I figured it was just the nature of the beast. Also, mine always seemed to hesitate a bit when shifting from reverse into drive.
I guess all I can do for now is look at my 1:18 scale diecast on my desk and hope for the best.

The more I think about this transmission thing, the more I get p'd off about it.
Will keep you posted.

cheezeboy

mkoll - aw, I am so sorry to hear that the tranny is toasted, but the good news is Mazda is fixing the problem.....just wait, it will be better than ever!!

and I am sorry that you live in a snowy climate!...I am spoiled here in FL....so I will quit the mileage race with ya!....

But I am glad you got the 1:18th model!!..mine is right here on my table!!....a cute redhead pulled a window out, but it's all better now!....sweet toy isn't it?....(the car not the redhead!..LOL!)

mkoll

cheeze-
Both cars are sweet toys.
Unfortunately, at the moment they are BOTH undriveable.
Feels like temporary RX-8 withdrawl.

vtlc

Hey, mkoll don't feel too bad, I was really PO when I had to take my 8 in for an engine replacement at only 1000 miles. I only had the car for 3 weeks or so and man was I on fire when they told me I needed a new engine. I was told I was going to get a rebuilt one. Talked to Mazda Corp Reps and then got a new one put in. I was listening to a radio show a few days ago and there was an issue close to mine about engine replacements and LOST N VALUE on the car. This could mean I might be able to claim something from Mazda because of the engine replacement. Anyone has any thoughts, Thanx.

One more thing, I'm noticing with my 8, upon cold starts It is really hard to shift into 1st and 2nd gear for the first couple of shifts. After that it is really smoothe. Warm up times are as usaual, 5 mins every time.

Hey GGuy keep up the Good work.

qbrozen

I think because you did manage to get a brand new engine, you should have nothing to worry about as far as resale.

There was actually a discussion about this... let's see.... found it... here it is

graphicguy

Thanks....I'm glad that new engine is working out for you.

The only time I ever see a reduced resale value is when a car has a "rebuilt" or "salvage" title attached to it.

I'm finally getting to drive my RX8 more and more since the weather broke. There was a point in time this winter where it stayed in the garage, untouched for 3 straight weeks. The more miles I pile up, the better it drives.

That 1-2 shift was "notchy" when the car is cold. Once it warms up, things are back to normal.

I did my first (small) roadtrip in my RX8 last weekend....250 miles round trip....all highway. I got 25 MPG with the cruise set between 75-80 MPH.

davesaunders

I think what you've really been talking about here is "diminished value." This is an insurance claim concept and I believe it only applies to reductions in value due to an accident (i.e. a car that has never been wrecked will usually sell for more than one that has been even with optimum repairs.) I don't think the vehicle has to have been salvaged or junked. Google under dimished value and you'll get 500,000+ hits. I don't see any that apply to mechanical problems and repair.

carliker

That's cool that you got such great gas mileage on your trip. On my longest trip I took with the RX-8 (about the amount of miles you drove), I could tell that there was a substantial difference in MPG. That's before any L reflash or whatever that chip you said was installed in your car. The highway mileage was pretty good. It was only going to and from work that the MPG dropped too much (which consists of back roads, stop signs and scattered lights).

vtlc - The fact that you had go through the trouble to have a rebuilt engine installed in your car is something I had never heard of before. I doubt that I could have taken it as well as you did. Mazda would have had to supply me with a brand new car for something that major. As for resale value, it probably won't make a difference if the engine they installed was new. Rebuilt sounds like it was a used one that they tinkered with in order for it to be used.

audia8q

actually rebuilt engines often are better than brand new engines out of the wrapper....they are tested and rebuilt to tolerances superior than new engines pulled off the assembly line.

graphicguy

I think Mazda is cautiously moving towards fuel maps close to what they originally planned via their ECU flash updates and more data regarding CAT converter life. In addition to my car getting better MPG, it's running stronger. As the weather gets warmer, I'll probably do another "unofficial" 0-60 run.

The first time around I got a 6.2-6.3 sec 0-60 run with a ~4K RPM launch on a green engine. With the RENESIS now broken in and the reflash, I should be able to shave a tenth or two off that time with the same launch.

With the warmer weather, I'm getting about 19 MPG in mixed driving. All city, stop & go driving (with plenty of 9K rpm runs thrown in), I'm getting between 16-17 MPG.

mikem1

Traded our 2000 E320 for a silver/black 6 spd. with GT package. A very pretty car and God does it handle--my wife can't stop giggling.

This is a August 03 build--should I expect that the sensor thing is s non issue? I'm waiting to hear from the service guy about the ECU reflash.

We've had a Boxster for 5 years and do autocrosses with it in club events and a few DE's at local tracks--mid ohio, nelson's ledges. After wheeling the RX around some S curves and on ramps my wife and I both agreed that we'll be taking this car along to the club events--it felt that good out of the box.

pathstar1

The dealer is supposed to flash it before selling it (according to the TSB). Turn the key on, (don't start the engine), touch the brake pedal 20 times within 8 sec. or so - just hard enough to trip the switch. If the oil pressure gauge sweeps up and back you have the "L" or "M" flash and should be ok. The "L" flash deals with the sensor issue, flooding, and a few more things, the "M" flash has the "L" stuff and fixes yet more "bugs".

pocketrocket

FYI!

This problem is also being found with the Mazda 3, I should know because I'm one of the 3's owner that has the problem!!

Hope they come up with a fix soon.....

graphicguy

What specifically does the "M" ECU reflash do?