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Comments
Yes...no...maybe.
Personally, I won't chance it. I'd prefer not to have the engine taken apart if it sludged using an oil that's on the list but I knew darn well didn't carry the right spec approval. Why go through the hassle? Especially when another oil that's on the list and carries the VW Spec 502.00 approval on the label is available. YMMV - it's a free country; feel free to use any oil as you see fit.
http://proformanceusa.com
The next oil change, I will have the engine flushed, and from this point on, use the Syntec
5w40 every 5000 miles (and not 1 mile over). My dealer will do the oil change, and I will supply the oil (so they can't pull the "you need all of your receipts" trick - they have been servicing the car since it was brand new - they have a record of every oil change - and so do I)...
Make sure the dealer notes on your service receipt that the oil was 502 compliant. And save all of the receipts from performanceusa.com.
Well we are buying our first brand new car ever and the passat 1.8t is one of our 3 choices. Own 2 VW right now NEVER had any problems. However I have been reading a lot about the sludge issue in earlier years. Come to this conclusion: VW should have never used regular oil in the Turbo. I have not seen a person yet that puts a Turbo in aftermarket and runs regular oil! Anyway we are stationed overseas and I have been calling the dealers here and the 1st thing they tell me is that with the services you have to use syn oil! So the dealers in Michigan where I called to inquire. I guess we are going thru this spiel one dealer says one thing another says something else. All 3 dealer statesside reminded me:) that it is syn oil. As much as I know VWOA has directed their dealers to use only that oil. Now I guess that is where the dealers set themselves apart. You would think though that dealers who refuse to change to that oil would be liable if something goeas wrong with the Turbo. Also if this helps on the VW site you can print out what syn oils meet the VW standard of 502.00. That way you cannot go wrong. Make the dealer note that you used the appropriate oil so you are good to go. If you do not like the dealer go home and call around until you find one you like. Once you do that you also see how big of a difference dealers charge when it comes to the large services. One dealer quoted me 526$ where the other quoted me 600$. When it came to the oil the difference in the 2 was 1$. Shop around before you settle. Ifeel bad for all the people who have had problems with earlier model years hopefully now with the switch it will make a big improvment. Oh and just so you know....do not feel bad spending 55$ for an oil/filter change over here in Germany itself it costs me 70euros which comes down to 92$ if the dollar stands decent, which just never seems to be the case:)
Can we take the engineering techno-babble somewhere else? I come here to escape my job for a few moments, not compound a headache.
I tried ask VoA, they've responded:"Ask your dealer." About what???
2 hours for oil change(selfcensored again :-)), missing parts after that...
I do not go to dealer after that. And who cares? Dealership, VoA? None of the above.
P.S. good luck with you new/future car(BTW,is it still VW?).
I went to my local VW dealer for a routine oil change and a tire rotation. I brought my own oil and left it in the backseat. I advised my service advisor of this. An hour and half later I was told my car was ready. I get in my car and look in the backseat and guess what I see? My unopened oil. I get out of my car and find my service advisor and ask what oil they used and he states "the oil that was in your backseat". I said the oil hasn't moved. He grabbed my paperwork and hurried towards the shop. They pull my car back around and (I hope) changed my oil again with the correct Mobil 1.
At this point I am wondering if they actually used my mobil 1 and changed my filter or just sat back in the shop for 15 minutes and pulled my car back around with the same oil in it. Also, on the window sticker it says they used regular oil and not synthetic. I asked about this and he stated they do use Castrol Syntec.
My advisor went into this long dialogue about how customer's come into the dealer with sludged engines and complain. When in actuality its the customer's fault because they can't prove they actually changed the oil.
I at least got a coffee mug for my inconvienence.......;-)
"Recently, Volkswagen of America issued a letter restating the appropriate oils to be used in the 1.8T engine in the Passat model. Emphasis was placed on the requirement that the oil meet VW Spec 502.00.
In that letter, a list of approved oils was included. Two Valvoline Synpower products made the list - Synpower 5w-30 and Synpower 5w-40.
Can you confirm that both of these oils meet VW Spec 502.00? Thank you."
In response, I received a .pdf file copy of Synpower product info sheet. The only two oils meeting noted as meeting VW Spec 502.00 are 5w-40 Synpower and 20w-50 Synpower.
Just for fun, I'm going to forward this on to VWoA and see what kind of response I get from Auburn Hills.
I used Gossett VW in Alpharetta GA.
We'd rather that you outline your problem in general terms and share info with other owners who have dealt with and possibly solved these issues.
Also, Complaint Boards tend to carry very nasty accusations along with them (people are, naturally, upset with the dealer about something) and this puts a lot of negativity into the forums. furthermore, we have no way to verify these accusations, which could be harmful and unfounded.
So I'd like to suggest that you use the NHTSA boards or other Consumer Advocate boards for long, detailed complaints against specific dealers.
In practice, it's easiest to go to a dealer, because if the dealer messes up, they have to answer to both you and to the manufacturer; whereas getting ANY independent shop to step up and fix stuff if difficult, they'll point fingers all over the place except towards themselves.
In practice, even at a dealer you need to keep your guard up and make sure work is done, and done properly:
Scratch or otherwise mark the oil filter so you are sure they didn't forget to replace it;
Check the oil level after an oil change (overfills are very common, underfills or no fills happen but less often);
And decide whether you want "bottles back" to act as a check that the cheap stuff from the overhead tubes didn't go into your car instead of the full synthetic. I thought asking for bottles back would offend the dealer, but they view you as part of the quality control process on their mechanics, so it's good for them too.
I try to go to just one dealer, in case they strip the oil plug (happened to me once and to two friends I know); if you switch between different places they'll deny it was THEIR fault.
And people wonder why manufacturers are starting to remove auto transmission dipsticks and fill tubes - it's probably because 75% of car repairs are caused by lack of maintenance, and 25% are caused by incompetent maintenance.
I base this on a few threads I've read on other forums in which receipts were rejected as evidence for the sludge issue because these things were missing.
Besotten by Passatan
thanks
Mrshiftright
host
Krzys
That's especially good if you do your own oil and filter changes.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
What do you recommend for breaking in, both for driving and for oil changes?
With a "race" engine, the fewer times you start 'em cold the better.
We'll switch to synthetic after 3,000...
Also, considering twin remote filters, both for increased oil capacity and cool factor - any problem filling these filters and lines up with the stock oil pump?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Heck, with 5 quarts of Castrol 5W30 costing only $6.00 at Wal-Mart, what's the harm?
I'm looking forward to working on it, but moreso to kicking the tail out on the drift track.
What do you think about the dual remote filter situation with the stock oil pump? I could have gotten a Nismo oil pump, but it was over $700, and that's insane, so we went with a $65 new OEM pump.
Why use the non-detergent oil for the first few hours or miles?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I wonder if the detergent oils have (had) more lubricity and wouldn't let the rings rub enough to wear themselves and the walls smooth to give a good 'seating'?
What does your ring manufacturer recommend about breaking in the rings? I'd check their website or the package to see if that's mentioned.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
One, the non-detergent oil will pick up anything in suspension, and you're going to dump that out in 1/2 hour anyway, so why waste oil at $3 a quart?
Second, I'd like things to "bed in" a bit, and super slippery oil may not allow even the slightest amount of friction or heat. I'd also like to know if the engine is okay at idle...very good oil might just cover up a clearance problem, etc.
I'd rather hear something going on at 1,200 rpm than 5,000 rpm.
11:1 compression is a bit dicey...you have to have really good fuel. I hope you did your "engine math"...if your compression is just a bit too high, well....but I'm sure you were careful.
This compression issue is often found in engines which take "big bore kits" like VW and Porsche. You have to measure your cylinder and head capacities to the CC or you are a dead duck.
I think unless you are drag racing with super high HP, a stock OEM is fine. I'd be more concerned with baffling the oil pan than will overall flow rates. When you fling a car around, well, the factory engineers didn't always design for those extremes of "attitude".
Premium for the street, and 106/108 Sunoco at the track.
Thanks on the oil pump question - my kid is obsessed with hanging big twin K&N oil filters on the lower fenderwell, both for bling factor and ease of oil changes.
I'd sooner you ran without a filter at all---you get about the same amount of protection and even more miniscule HP gains.
We're going to be running an Injen cold air system for AIR.