Oil change/fiascos

wtd44

Oil monitors are not what the name seems to imply. For most brands of vehicle, they simply tell you that a predetermined number of miles have been driven since the last resetting of the monitor. That predetermined number of miles is the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval.

joe3891

has nothing to do with miles, it starts with a set number of RPM, then rpm's are deducted for the engine running, more are deducted for high or low temp and high load. The system was developed using oil analysis.

bjbird2

I started using Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic oil in my 2002 Passat 1.8T starting at 1000 miles. All of the oil changes have been done every 5000 miles with a local mechanic, not VW, with me supplying the oil.

I thought that with the 1.8T engine sludge problems, VW is now requiring the use of synthetic, and the new larger filters. I also read that VW dropped the price of the synthetic for dealer changes, so I thought I would call VW and find out how their oil change price compared with the cost of buying my own oil, and now, buying the larger filter from VW.

I was surprised to hear the service person tell me they were not aware of a recent requirement from VW to use full synthetic in the 1.8T, that they use the semi-synthetic oil, and the larger filter, for a $40 change cost. Using synthetic would be $20-$30 more.

So I have a letter from VW telling me to use synthetic oil, and they are very specific about which oils to use. Then I have the dealer telling me they're not aware of this requirement. Don't these guys communicate?

 I think I'm going back to my mechanic and supplying my own oil. I'll just have to purchase the larger filter from VW.

krzyss

5W30 and you are covered.

Keep the receipts.

 

Krzys

fish8

It is also my understanding that the monitor takes into consideration the number of times one starts the car. The monitor does not actually analyze the oil, it just looks at the conditions the oil is being used under.

 

As Joe indicated, the Chevy oil monitor is not strictly based on miles driven as it is in Honda products. Honda's maintenance light goes off every 7,500 miles (I think)....Period!!

altair4

I was surprised to hear the service person tell me they were not aware of a recent requirement from VW to use full synthetic in the 1.8T, that they use the semi-synthetic oil, and the larger filter, for a $40 change cost. Using synthetic would be $20-$30 more.

 

Incredible. Simply incredible. I think I'd be forced to give VWoA a phone call about this one. This kind thing is going to kill VW.

 

I guess I've been lucky - I take my own 502.00 Spec approved oil to my dealership. They use their filter, stamp my manual, and the final price is somewhere around $45 (total - including the oil). And they use the bigger filter, too.

bjbird2

I called VW of America, and they were surprised that a dealer would say that they were not aware of the need to use synthetic oil in the 1.8T, and said that they would address it. They confirmed that I should continue to use VW recommended synthetic oil in my 2002, stressed the need to change it every 5000 miles, and keep all receipts. They also reminded me of the extended warantee related to the sludge problem.

As I said, I've been using synthetic oil since 1000 miles, and I have 34000 with no problems (knock on wood!)

Owning my first VW product has been a real love/hate relationship.

7937

From GMTechLink

 

How the Oil Life System Works

We’ve explained the GM Oil Life System (GMOLS) in detail before (March 2000, May 2003) so this is going to be brief.

 

GMOLS is a computer-based algorithm that assesses engine combustion events, temperature, vehicle use, and other parameters to determine optimum oil change intervals. Oil changes are now called for when actually needed, instead of depending on generic time or mileage interval tables. Mild highway driving in a mild climate can yield change intervals of 7,000 miles (11,000 km) or more, and as high as 12,000 miles (19,000 km) for some vehicles. Short trip driving in cold weather may reduce intervals to 3,000 miles (5,000 km) or less. Most people driving a combination of city and highway will likely see intervals of about 6,000 miles (10,000 km).

 

When GMOLS determines that an oil and filter change is needed, the driver is notified by a Change Oil message on the instrument panel (fig. 10). Oil should be changed within 600 miles (1000 km).

 

TIP: The Oil Life System must be manually reset when the oil is changed.

 

How the Oil Life System is Related to Maintenance

The previously complicated, traditional normal/severe maintenance schedules required about 25 pages of explanation in the owner’s manual. The new simplified maintenance schedules can be explained in about 3 pages (see TechLink May 2003 for a summary).

 

All routine maintenance is grouped into one of two schedules, Maintenance I and Maintenance II. These services should be performed alternately, each time the GMOLS message is displayed.

 

Benefits of GM Oil Life System and Simplified Maintenance

Benefits for the customer -- GMOLS takes the guesswork out of when oil changes are needed; the owner doesn’t have to keep track of anything. With maintenance intervals now aligned with oil changes, the customer can conveniently have both done during one service visit.

 

Benefits for the dealer -- Because of the typically extended oil change intervals, the customer may come back less frequently. But when they do come back, it’s for more services. The inspection and service points of both Maintenance I and Maintenance II are thorough, and are intended to keep the vehicle in good working order. They also give the technician the opportunity to locate, identify and recommend other needed services.

 

Benefits for the environment -- With GMOLS now installed on upwards of 20 million vehicles, if it’s used as intended, it can save almost 100 million gallons of oil in 5 years. And remember that every quart of oil poured into an engine eventually has to be drained out and properly disposed of.

Mr_Shiftright

You can't make a really good judgment about your oil life based on how it "looks" on the dipstick I don't think.

driftracer

when I was a service manager....people would ask "how'd my oil look?"...I'd say "black?"

 

If I can see metal on your dipstick, you need a lot more than an oil change...about the only other thing you can tell on a dipstick is maybe with a blown headgasket, you'd have chocolate milk.

altair4

I'm really glad you made that call. If VWoA won't clean up the problems at the dealerships, I guess it's up to the customers to force their hand. Good on ya, mate!

3screwsloose

It could be the technician didn't reset the oil change monitoring system. Or, perhaps the 1200 miles you have driven since then took a year to cover. On M-B the system must be reset, just changing out the old oil w/new oil isn't enuff. If the oil isn't replaced in 365 days the timer in the system causes the notice to illuminate.

3screwsloose

The service guy/gal SHOULD KNOW about the recommended oils for your car. Last summer VW sent me an insert for my owners' manual about what type, brands and reiterated the interval regarding engine oil changes. Sludge can be an UGLY experience. If he didn't know, I would be very concerned about the service department he works at. I don't know about ANY larger oil filter 'tho. I use the Purolator PURE ONE with my Mobil 1 oil and change it every 10wks - 5K mi.

600kgolfgt

I would steer clear of the aftermarket oil filters (Fram, Purolator, etc). I use the factory MANN oil filters for my VWs because besides being a very effective filter, they also contain a check valve which aids in regulating the engine's oil pressure and prevents dirty oil from "backflowing" into the engine after it is turned off. The majority of aftermarket filters do not have this feature. I learned my lesson after years of using the aftermarket filters.

 

This is definitely one situation where "you get what you pay for"...

imidazol97

Are you sure that those other filters you list DON'T have check valves???

600kgolfgt

Here's an excerpt from http://www.swedishbricks.net/faq/oilsfilters.html:

=================================================================- =====

 

Date: Mon, 27 Jan 92 12:51:39 EST

From: wiegman@orion (Herman L. N. Wiegman)

To: volvo-net@me.rochester.edu

Subject: Re: oil filters and Techtron

 

Eric, Dave and the net, [important thread for all Volvo owners]

 

>Volvo recently downsized their oil filters again...it is now about half the size it was just a few years ago.

> On my '84 240 with B230 engine, there is plenty of room for the larger filter, so I figure I might as well get all the filtering I can.

 

This was a mistery to me too, but Hudson Valley Volvo Club enlightened me and many others with their oil filter display. The now smaller Volvo filter has MORE filtering folds in it with FINER tolerances and BETTER filtering capability. WOW! I was impressed. The price did not get smaller though...

 

The worst oil filter was the FRAM unit. The BEST ones were the MANN oil filter (the original manufacturer for the '82-'89 Volvo oil filter), the OEM (original equipment from the manufacture) filter, the AC Purilator and the ipd unit. There were lots of mediocre filters and a few pitiful ones. I can summarize to those who are interested.

 

> Once again, regular oil changes are far more important than the oil or filter types that are used.

 

The Fram unit did not even have a oil pressure check valve in it! The oil pressure would drop to ZERO every time the car is turned off. Normally the pressure stays up, or at least, the oil stays in the filter for shorter start-up lubrication lag times.

 

Personally I use the ipd filters. Why? Because I bought a case of them on sale. I'll probably use either the OEM or Mann units in the future.

=================================================================- =======

 

At the time I used the aftermarket filters in my 1987 Golf GT, Most of them did not have the anti-drainback valves. I understand that the aftermarket filters are now incorporating this feature, but a lot of them still have filter elements that have the durability of a potato chip. As a former mechanic, I now use only the factory filters for the specific make of vehicle. Everyone else can use what they want, but for me, anything else is a shortcut IMHO.

imidazol97

>The Fram unit did not even have a oil pressure check valve in it! The oil pressure would drop to ZERO every time the car is turned off.

 

The oil pressure always drops to zero any time an engine is turned off...? The oil pump stops turning and the filter media allows the oil to exit toward the engine if it's under any pressure.

 

Antidrainback valves are to keep the oil from leaving the line due to gravity. As I understand that's needed on a few motors that lose a lot of volume from a line when off for a period of time. Then the startup is like having a new filter where the first little bit of pumping is refilling the line before oil gets pumped to the engine parts.

 

I can't tell from any evidence in the citation if antidrainback valve is needed in this engine or not. Most talk was anecdotal. The whole question and discussion there sounds like a 30 minute commercial on late-nite cable criticizing the competition's mouse-milk product to tout their own.

 

Does anyone have more data on drain-back valves? And where they're needed? And which filters actually don't have them on the model for the cars that do need them, an important question.

600kgolfgt

This link contains some additional oil filter data:

 

http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/

600kgolfgt

Here's the breakdown on the VW and Mann filters. Note that the anti-drainback valve is made of steel instead of the silicone-rubber diaphragm valve used by its competitors. The Mann oil filter's (which my local VW dealership and my VW mechanic both use) anti-drainback valve and bypass valve are both constructed of steel:

 

Volkswagen 034 115 561A

 

This filter has the same construction as the American-made Bosch filter (Champion Labs), and also appears to have the same filter element.

 

Average Retail Price $8

Cartridge Length 3.950 inches

Cartridge Outside Diameter 2.700 inches

Cartridge Inside Diameter 1.375 inches

Cartridge Pleats 75

Cartridge End Cap Type Stamped steel

Anti-Drainback Valve Type Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal

Bypass Valve Type Nitrile rubber diaphragm

Element Type Paper media, glued seam

Element Length 73 inches

Element Width 3.750 inches

Element Surface Area 274.0 square inches

Shell Thickness 0.014 inches

Backplate Thickness 0.118 inches

Gasket Type Nitrile rubber

 

Mann W719/5

 

This filter also has similarities to both the Champion Labs and the Mahle units. It has the usual Champion Labs bypass and anti-drainback valve locations and construction, but has a filter element similar to the Mahle unit. The inside diameter of this cartridge is smaller than the Champion Labs or Mahle, which allows deeper pleats and gives this filter the most surface area of the group (285sq-in). The cartridge spacer is a leaf spring-type, but of a unique design. The backplate looks just like the Champion Labs backplate, except that for some reason is it not welded or glued to the can. The can has some "hooks" that attach it to the backplate through the "D"-shaped inlet holes. After looking at it, I realized that this makes no difference in terms of sealing. The outside seal is made to the filter can and so any oil that gets between the backplate and the can ends up in the same place that it would if it went through the inlet holes. Also, this filter has the strongest can of the group.

 

This filter has "Made in Germany" stamped on the can, which may account for the differences from the American-made Bosch filter (which is manufactured by Champion Laboratories).

 

Average Retail Price $?

Cartridge Length 3.875 inches

Cartridge Outside Diameter 2.700 inches

Cartridge Inside Diameter 1.375 inches

Cartridge Pleats 59

Cartridge End Cap Type Stamped steel, with bypass and anti-drainback valves

Anti-Drainback Valve Type Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal (bottom of cartridge)

Bypass Valve Type Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal (top of cartridge)

Element Type Paper media, glued seam

Element Length 76 inches

Element Width 3.750 inches

Element Surface Area 285.0 square inches

Shell Thickness 0.021 inches

Backplate Thickness 0.117 inches

Gasket Type Nitrile rubber

wtd44

Don't overlook the fact that many/most oil filters that carry a motor vehicle brand name on them are manufactured by one or more of the companies such as Champion Labs, Wix Corp., etc. You can very often get the very same filter under another label for less money.

600kgolfgt

Good point. But note that most of the German-manufactured filters incorporate steel anti-drainback valves and/or bypass valves, while the rest use silicone or plastic-based valves. That's why I opt to use the VW factory (or Mann) filters over the Frams and Purolators of the world due to their robust construction and good filtering capabilities - and the fact that they were designed specifically for my vehicle.

 

To me, this is a situation where you get what you pay for.

altair4

Do you have any construction info on the 068-1155-61B? This is the new (or old, depending on your viewpoint) filter that is being spec'd for Passats now?

 

I've noticed that some forums have indicated that this filter is marked "made in the USA?" So I'm really wondering what is the anti-drain back valve made of? Are they using German construction method or not?

imidazol97

me interested. I'm going to cut open the Fram I took off the car yesterday to see what it's like inside. Drainback valve, filter media, and all.

600kgolfgt

I found the info on the following site:

 

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy-german.html#oc49

 

This VW-spec filter is manufactured by Mahle. Here's the description for the Mahle filters:

 

Mahle OC49

 

This filter has similarities with the Champion Labs unit, but is different enough to lead me to believe that it is not the same manufacturer. The similarities are that is has the spring loaded anti-drainback and bypass valves built into the cartridge end caps. The differences are that the bypass valve has no steel plate (it is a thick piece of spring-loaded rubber) and the anti-drainback valve has a wider steel plate than the Bosch. Also, a coil spring spacer is used instead of the leaf spring and the filter element has a metal seam instead of a glued one. In my opinion, these differences do not make this filter better or worse; I just pointed them out to show that it is definitely not the same manufacturing process.

 

The filter element is thin and fairly stiff, but quite strong and has one of the largest element surface areas of the group. The glue used to attach the end caps to the element is unlike any other I have seen. Rather than a gooey-flexible type, this stuff is hard and brittle. Neither better nor worse...just different. One striking aspect of this filter is the precise spacing of the pleats. While not especially relevant, it shows an attention to detail. The filter case is definitely one of the strongest and the backplate has 6 medium-sized oil inlet holes, for plenty of flow.

 

Average Retail Price $?

Cartridge Length 3.710 inches

Cartridge Outside Diameter 2.750 inches

Cartridge Inside Diameter 1.500 inches

Cartridge Pleats 64

Cartridge End Cap Type Stamped steel, with bypass and anti-drainback valves

Anti-Drainback Valve Type Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal (bottom of cartridge)

Bypass Valve Type Spring loaded nitrile rubber (top of cartridge)

Element Type Paper media, metal seam

Element Length 74 inches

Element Width 3.500 inches

Element Surface Area 259.0 square inches

Shell Thickness 0.018 inches

Backplate Thickness 0.132 inches

Gasket Type Nitrile rubber

 

Based on these specs, this is a pretty robust filter...you should be in good shape...

wtd44

All this filter territory has been gone over thoroughly in the past (a couple years or so ago). I suspect it is in the archives.

Mr_Shiftright

You can use the "search forums" feature to the left of this page for that, using various keywords related to oil filters. I bet you'd dig up quite a bit of material in the archives on this subject.

cjsings2

My best friend has just been informed that she too has a sludge problem and the engine must be replaced - this after faithful oil changes and an oil pump replacement exactly one year and 12 days ago (just 12 days over the 1 yr replacement warranty). It's a 2001 and she bought it used in 2002 with 36,000 miles on it. Now has 51, 000. Does anyone know how she can obtain the "refund claim form" and if anyone has had any success with VW picking up the tab for this huge catastrophe?

fish8

The most important question to ask your best friend is "how often was the oil changed? and What type of oil was used?" The "sludge warranty extension" specifically states that the oil must be changed at 5K mile intervals and specific VW recommended oil must be used. Hopefully, the dealer will work with her on an engine replacement.

bjbird2

My local Chrysler dealer, where I bought my Pacifica, offers oil changes for $9.95 on any car. I brought my 1.8T Passat in, and supplied my own Valvoline 5W-30 synthetic oil, and a new VW larger oil filter. They only charged me $5.50 for the labor! They even replaced the missing bolts on the shield that the last jiffy oil place left off. This is the their regular price for an oil change.

Ironically, my Pacifica has free changes from the same dealer, which were offered to us to close the sale.

micweb

I got the VW list of approved oils some time ago, and as I recall they require 5-40 NOT 5-30 as the approved spec. It's not, imho, so much that the 30 is too thin, as that all the 5-40 series pf oils (and Mobil 1 0-40) were designed specifically to meet the Euro spec. I wouldn't have a cow about it, but I'd double check the requirements since there have been sludge problems with the turbo Passat....

24lover

I have a 1993 Chrysler Acclaim and I looked all over the car to see what kind of oil I need for it, but I couldn't find anything. Anyone know what kind?? I also need to know is there a special kind of oil filter I need to get?

altair4

You wrote: I brought my 1.8T Passat in, and supplied my own Valvoline 5W-30 synthetic oil, and a new VW larger oil filter.

 

Per Valvoline's website, contrary to what is in the VW sludge letter, Valvoline Synpower 5w-30 is not VW Spec 502.00 compliant. However, Valvoline's MaxLife Synthetic 5w-30 is compliant (but isn't on the VW list!). I'd just buy the Valvoline 5w-40 Synpower and be done with it. Available thru NAPA Auto Parts.

altair4

You wrote: I have a 1993 Chrysler Acclaim and I looked all over the car to see what kind of oil I need for it, but I couldn't find anything. Anyone know what kind?? I also need to know is there a special kind of oil filter I need to get?

 

Have you looked in the owner's manual? The oil should be spec'd there. Can't imagine it's going to be anything esoteric. As far as the filter, I suggest going to your local auto parts store and looking in the application books near the oil filters. Purolator Pure One is good, but others will work.

bjbird2

If Valvoline Synpower 5W-30 is on the recommended approved list from VW, then I think I'm covered.

0patience

CRANKCASE SPECIFICATIONS

Type SG, SG/CD, SG/CE

CAPACITY, Refill:

4-cyl. 3.8 Liters 4.0 Quarts

6-cyl. 5.7 Liters 6.0 Quarts

8-cyl. 4.7 Liters 5.0 Quarts

Capacity shown includes filter

Above 0°F (-18°C) 10W-30

Below 60°F (16°C) 5W-30

Oil Filter OEM part# 5281090

wtd44

Did you mix up the 6 and the 8?

0patience

Naw, it was a copy and paste from the information system. But you are correct, they are backwards.

altair4

You wrote: "If Valvoline Synpower 5W-30 is on the recommended approved list from VW, then I think I'm covered."

 

Covered you may be, but look at the bigger picture. If you plan to keep your car for any length of time, why run an oil that's too thin? And while you might be able to pull the trigger on the warranty if you need it, the hassle of a waiting on the work has it's own costs. Your decision...but I'd keep track of your oil receipts like they were printed on gold, if I were you.

micweb

I agree with Altair4, given all the hassles that other owners of other Passat 1.8 turbo have had with sludge, I think using the correct spec oil is best, and for that matter I would cough up the $60 to have it done at a VW dealer so I have iron clad documentation. I might skimp on other parts of the service, but $60 every 5,000 miles isn't too much for a $25k+ car. Even Toyota was getting in big fights with owners regarding their sludge problem, initialling denying evidence of oil changes based on quick lube receipts.

 

I have to feel for the poor manufacturers. Some automatic transmissions are now "sealed," partly, I suspect, to keep quick lubes from messing them up with non-spec fluid changes. I almost saw such a mess up in person, when my mom took her Neon to a quick lube shop, with only 9,000 miles on it, they tried to sell her everything, including an auto tranny flush, and they wanted to use "universal" fluid with a "special additive" (separate bottle) to make it meet the special Chrysler ATF spec...a practice much maligned on the web as leading to premature tranny failure in Chryslers.

 

The only qualm I have about having dealers do work, most of the time I can't watch to confirm they aren't messing it up. One Honda dealer has a quick lube line were I can watch to make sure what oil and filter are going on. Another Honda dealer will bring out the empty bottles and filter to confirm the change (I guess dealers don't want the techs taking any shortcuts) after the job, on request. At that dealer, however, I noted they had used the WRONG viscosity oil (5-30 instead of 5-20), and had to have the oil changed a second time.

 

At least by going to the VW dealer, they can't point a finger at any one else to blame. You aren't buying just an oil change, you are buying insurance.

tbman

I had my oil changed at a business and I drove around for 4000 miles before noticing that the cap was off. There was no smoke, smell or anything else except the hood insulator is full of oil. My engine oil is still reading as full. Would it have messed anything up driving around like this for a few months or 4000 miles. I never noticed that the oil pressure was low.

driftracer

Umm, not to sound smart alecky, but don't you ever check your oil?? I mean I check it once a week or every fillup, and many don't do that, but 4,000 miles??

 

A great rule of thumb, and one I relaxed on, but never will again, is after the oil change and your car is in the parking lot, check your oil, make sure your oil filler cap is in place, and make sure (if applicable, if checked) your air filter housing is resecured.

altair4

The only thing I'd add to that is to take a peek at the actual oil filter to make sure it's been changed. Don't laugh - it's happened.

driftracer

Did that with my new Dodge truck - got the first oil change complimentary from the selling dealer....took in in two weeks ago. Got it home, after my wife picked it up after work, and I checked everything out - the oil filter, a MOPAR unit, of course, had "factory installed" stenciled on it. I called the dealership and asked them if all of their MOPAR filters had that stamp...they said "no....". Took it back, of course, but sheesh...

njpassat1

I just returned from the dealer for what should have been a simple procedure. Based on information found in these forums, I had tracked down Castrol Syntec 5w-40 for my '03 1.8 turbo. I made sure they were going to use the larger filter and was assured that was the case. Pointed out that I had 5 quarts of oil but that even with the larger filter it would not hold the entire 5 qts and could they please be sure not to overfill. (This is only the 3rd change since I have only 12k on the car and at both previous changes they had managed to overfill by at least a half quart each time. I know the next comment - why do I go back to this dealer??)

When they finished with the car I looked in the back seat - there's the Castrol. So much for reading the work order. They said it would be taken care of immediately - I also inquired and was told they would start over with a new filter. End of story is that I am absolutely certain they did not remove the filter and used only 4 quarts & about 2 drops of the Castrol. So now I have at least a half a quart of dino Quaker State 5w-30 ( their standard) mixed in with the synthetic oil. Does anyone know what effect this might have?? I'll change it myself to get it right and obviously won't be going back for any more oil change adventures. I just don't want to risk problems with the mix.

 

Let me hear from the guys who really know this stuff -

bjbird2

So much for getting good service at the VW dealer.

I was able to watch the oil change at the Chrysler dealer through a window in the waiting room, so I know they installed the synthetic oil and filter I supplied. The only thing they didn't do was put all the bolts in the cover underneath. They claimed that all the bolts were not there to start with, which is strange because the last oil change was at a VW dealer. After I complained, they found some bolts and put them in.

The Valvoline 5W-30 IS VW spec, according to their approved list.

1racefan

I have to agree with drift that it is a great idea to look under the hood after having work done. Typically I will go down the street from the garage, and pop the hood in a parking lot. I once took a vehicle in to have about a 4" diameter rubber gasket replaced on the windshield washer fluid reservoir (it was leaking). They replaced the gasket, but left the old one sitting on top of the strut mount under the hood. Another time I had a battery terminal replaced, and the packaging that the new terminal came in was also left under the hood. In both cases, it was no big deal because I had just driven around the block from the shop and had caught it - but you never know what stuff like that could do if you don't catch it and it gets tangled up in a belt or something.

driftracer

And it's better to check it in the parking lot or a block down the road at a convenience store, than to find out what's going on with smoke and warning lights as you're cruising down the freeway.

1racefan

and dad had first taught me how to change oil, I once forgot to put the oil cap back on. Dad caught it about a 1/2 mile down the road when the car started smoking a little bit. I was typically pretty consciencous when it came to stuff like that, so dad went easy on me. However, I did learn to detail an engine bay that same day :-).

div2

I've got you all beat. I was on my way to Hilton Head and hit a pothole, ruining the RF tire. I was driving the Club Sport, which does use a bit of oil(1 qt. every 3000 miles or so), so I checked the oil at every fuel stop AND when I got to Hilton Head. I NEVER added any oil. Fast forward three days-I'm at the Hilton Head Tire Kingdom having my tire replaced. On the way back to the condo I smell burning oil and the CEL illuminates. I pull over, pop the hood, and find that my oil filler cap is missing. I call Tire Kingdom and they treat me like an idiot: "Sir, you need to go back to the shop that changed your oil." Funny thing, I drove the car from the Ohio Valley to SC and never smelled any oil or noticed the CEL... Luckily, I found the cap laying on top of the motor mount. After an hour of scrubbing and a roll of paper towels the engine bay was presentable again. My guess is that some idiot at Tire Kingdom thought the car was in for an oil change and got ready to pull the drain plug when someone yelled "No, Goober! That 'uns jest here to git the tar changed." So, Goober closes the hood without replacing the cap. Morons.

altair4

You wrote: "The Valvoline 5W-30 IS VW spec, according to their approved list."

 

Who do you think knows this grade of Valvoline oil better - VW or Valvoline? Valvoline's website says Valvoline Synpower 5w-30 (that is sold in the US and Canada) is not VW Spec 502.00 compliant. The same website shows that the Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic 5w-30 is compliant. BTW, European Synpower is also compliant, but not sold here (it also comes in 0w-40 in Europe).

 

I'd believe Valvoline over VWoA in this matter. Geez, my Passat owner's manual is riddled with typos, errors, and just plain mistakes. I'm inclined to believe that either VW confused the European Synpower with the North American product, or they confused Synpower with MaxLife Synthetic. Google Valvoline for their product sheets.